How can you keep your skin healthy?
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): A Further Inquiry
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2025/09/10
Part 1 of 2
Dr. Viktoryia Kazlouskaya, MD, PhD, is a dermatologist with 20 years of skincare, cosmetic procedures, and dermatological research expertise. She specializes in evidence-based treatments, including sunscreen, retinol, and antioxidants, while addressing conditions like acne, rosacea, and aging skin. Passionate about patient education, she emphasizes the importance of lifestyle, diet, and personalized care. Dr. Kazlouskaya is also experienced in advanced therapies like exosomes, microneedling, and lasers, making her a trusted authority in modern dermatology. Kazlouskaya discussed effective skincare, focusing on essentials like sunscreen, retinol, and vitamin C while cautioning against overusing active ingredients or following unproven trends like beef tallow or period blood in skincare. Kazlouskaya highlighted the role of diet and lifestyle in skin health, including the impact of insulin resistance and treatments like Ozempic. In this 2-part interview, she explained different patient demographics, from cost-insensitive individuals seeking comprehensive treatments to those resistant to interventions like injections. They concluded by planning future discussions on hair, nails, and advanced skincare procedures.
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Today, we’re here with Dr. Viktoryia Kazlouskaya, MD, PhD. We will discuss dermatology, in which she has 20 years of expertise. Let’s start on a positive note by focusing on effective techniques and technologies that are not.
So, what are people doing right regarding skin health and skincare?
Dr. Viktoryia Kazlouskaya: Before we begin, may I ask a quick question? Are we focusing on home skincare or discussing skincare and procedures in general?
Jacobsen: Let’s focus on home skincare first. We can move on to specialties once we’ve established that as a foundation.
Kazlouskaya: The number one mistake people make is using too many products. Skincare is a multi-billion-dollar industry, and it is ubiquitous. It’s on social media and the internet; every dermatologist seems to be developing their products. This encourages people to overuse, overpurchase, and overconsume. Unfortunately, this is harmful, as it can lead to serious consequences.
A small study published in dermatology literature showed that overusing too many active ingredients can make the skin more sensitive and more prone to conditions like acne and rosacea. This overuse can worsen these issues, damage the skin barrier, and make the skin more vulnerable overall.
So that’s the first point. The second issue related to the first is that very young people unnecessarily use too many active ingredients. For example, if someone does not have acne, there is no need to start using retinol during their teenage years. Doing so can damage the skin barrier and lead to dryness.
The same goes for exfoliation, particularly with acids. Overuse of exfoliating acids is completely unnecessary and can harm the skin.
The third point is that people don’t always need to spend much on skincare. Affordable options often work just as well as expensive ones. Of course, this isn’t always true—there are pricier products with unique formulations that can be more effective—but it is not universally the case.
Typically, over-the-counter products from well-known brands are not particularly helpful and are often overpriced. Many of these products contain excessive fragrances and botanical extracts, which can be irritating. On the other hand, some medical-grade products can be excellent, albeit more expensive.
Overall, however, there is usually no need to overspend. Studies have shown that some inexpensive moisturizers are less irritating because they contain fewer ingredients, reducing the risk of irritation. This information is backed by peer-reviewed research. If needed, I can provide links to these studies for reference.
Jacobsen: Regarding the cost differences between name-brand products and more affordable options with fewer fragrances and additives, are there any name-brand products that stand out as genuinely better—not simply because of their branding, but due to the higher quality of their ingredients?
Kazlouskaya: Yeah, there are many brands right now, and many are doing a decent job selecting ingredients. A couple of brands have been known for decades, and we, as dermatologists, often recommend them. Smaller brands are also trying to select safe ingredients and find effective combinations.
So, do you need some names?
Jacobsen: Should we give them free advertising? What if we rank products based on efficacy, from high-end to low-end? Without focusing on particular name brands, what do we know helps people with their skin? And conversely, what do we know doesn’t help at all?
Kazlouskaya: Okay, first, we must clarify what we’re discussing—anti-aging, general skincare, or specific concerns.
Let’s start with sunscreen. This is the number one helpful product because collagen is degraded by UV exposure if you’re not using sunblock or protecting your skin. This also exacerbates many conditions.
Sunscreen is essential not just for maintenance but also for conditions like rosacea. Scientific studies have shown that sunscreen can improve rosacea by up to 15%, even without medication. Similarly, sunscreen can help with acne-related post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which can be more distressing than the acne itself.
There’s no easy cure for hyperpigmentation, and while cosmetic treatments exist, wearing sunscreen during acne treatment can prevent these problems altogether.
There are two types of sunscreens: synthetic and natural. Natural ingredients include zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Both types are effective. Some people fear synthetic ingredients, thinking they’re toxic chemicals, but there is no scientific evidence supporting this concern. However, natural sunscreens containing zinc may be preferable for sensitive skin due to a lower risk of reactions or interactions with other skincare products.
So, sunscreen is the number one product everyone should use. All other products are optional, even retinol for anti-aging.
Retinol, a modified vitamin A molecule, is the second most effective ingredient. It promotes skin regeneration, stimulates collagen production, and has extensive research supporting its effectiveness in maintaining skin health. Suppose you start using retinol in your 20s and continue consistently. In that case, you have an excellent chance of keeping your skin youthful throughout your life.
Another essential category is antioxidants, which protect the skin from free radicals, UV damage, and environmental stress. Vitamin C is the most notable antioxidant. It plays a significant role in collagen synthesis, skin protection, pigmentation, and texture enhancement.
The top three scientifically supported skincare ingredients are sunscreen, retinol, and vitamin C. Using just these three will ensure your skin looks healthy and radiant.
After these essentials, the focus shifts to addressing specific concerns. For example, if you have acne, there are proven treatments. Similarly, targeted molecules can help with oiliness or other issues.
Guide me towards more specific areas, and I can elaborate further.
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