Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Canadian Atheist (Unpublished)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/09/11
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Off tape, you were discussing and teaching me more about some of the specifics around type one and type two errors. This has relationships to the deep history of species in terms of evolutionary perspectives. How does this tie into religious faith in Canada?
Farhad Dastur: Well, maybe I’ll just provide a little bit of context of what I mean by type one type two errors in the context of evolutionary history. This is the notion that animal minds and where animals are biased towards making type one errors over type two errors where a type one error is saying that something exists when in fact it doesn’t and the type two error is failing to detect something that exists when in fact it does. So, because nature is a dangerous place; that sounds kind of simplistic. The world is a dangerous place in the sense and it’s a difficult place, it’s a challenging place because you’re constantly trying to solve problems of survival and reproduction, finding something to eat while simultaneously being avoid being eaten, avoiding illness and disease, avoiding being socially manipulated by members of your own species or perhaps even other species, finding shelter from the elements, etc. Let’s say that in most context if you think something is bad for you but you’re not sure, it’s probably prudent to act like it is. So, there’s going to be a certain kind of neophobia around novel foods because that food could be yummy and that’s a good source of calories or it could be poisonous in your death. Which problem is worse? Going hungry in the search for food or immediately dying? That noise in the forest could be a predator tracking you or it could be a branch falling but in terms of the design of your perceptual systems and your reaction to that information; does it make sense to continue munching the leaves or does it make sense to flee?
The deer that flees lives again but the deer that says “Eh, it’s probably just a branch,” every now and then will make a mistake. So, now making a huge inferential leap and compressing many generations; what does this have to do with relationship? I think in the sense that religion is a way is many things but one of the things that is, is a way of explaining the world and providing you with an answer to what is otherwise confusing. And confusion for every species is dangerous because it means you are not extracting the full potential of resources and knowledge and information that’s in the environment if you can’t make sense of it. Religion makes sense of the environment. It’s just that it does so in a way that’s not scientific and therefore in many cases especially in a complex technological world doesn’t make sense or it’s counterproductive but I think in in many contexts it’s very reassuring. It probably does get it right in a sloppy kind of way. So, if there’s lightning and thunder and the religion tells you the gods are angry so we should take shelter and let the anger rage out and maybe provide a sacrifice… well, you probably survive because you’re doing that but you don’t know why you’re doing that but the behaviour was one that did protect you and then you survive longer and you say “Yeah this is working.”
So, in that sense, religion is providing that type one analysis. It’s giving you patterned answers to a confusing world because that’s the way our minds are designed.
Jacobsen: Are there aspects of religion that have a sufficient fidelity with the actual world, accuracy with the real world that they don’t require too much push back against?
Dastur: Wow! I haven’t thought about that one deeply enough. I mean there may be some with regards to prohibitions against marrying people who are too genetically close to you. Religion doesn’t understand the genetic reasons for doing that but it understands the phenotypic consequences of doing that. You get mutations or congenital defects or miscarriages or various problems. It’s not like religion is bad, it’s just that it was the best we had before we had the scientific process or other ways of testing and being critical and deepening our understanding of the world. So, I would say probably that would be a good place where religion gets it mostly.
Jacobsen: How does this apply to people’s interpretations even up to high scholarly level in graduate schools of religious texts. So, you make this assumption that there is an afterlife and that this particular text will give you guidance on how to get there and then when you’re doing interpretation of it.
Dastur: Well, I think this speaks to the culture wars that’s happening most prominently in United States but in many places in Western education and really, it’s a question of how do we talk about different world views. So, while honouring them and I don’t know that there’s an easy way to do this… so, I came back from the Amazon Forest recently with students on a field school and the Shaman who had guided us into the forest and was teaching in us about the magical plants, the supernatural powers that can be derived from various combinations of plants understood this to simply be the way the world works. For many indigenous people there is no distinction between the natural and the supernatural world. It’s just the world and you either have access to going deeper into that world and if you do, we call it supernatural because magical things happen to our perceptions but to them it’s just normal.
So, the question was asked how do you create ayahuasca? How did the indigenous people know to create ayahuasca when it’s the combination of two entirely different species of plants that need to be prepared separately and then put together in a unique kind of way in order to get the effect? And in the absence of having pharmacology and ethnobotany; how would you know that these two plants would go together? He explained it kind of in a way that made us feel like he thought we were silly for even asking the question by saying well the plants told him. They spoke to him as to which plant should go in which plant. Now that’s a profoundly different worldview than biology is based on and yet it worked. And how do you square that? So many of their remedies work within a social cultural context of their community in that place, in that time. And so, I think as creative and critical thinkers coming from a western sceptical tradition, we can dismiss this too quickly but we can also embrace it too unthinkingly and there’s a middle path where, I don’t know what you call that path, but it’s a path that honours and respects indigenous ways of knowing alternative ways of knowing from other cultures while at the same time not abandoning this grand scientific activity that has also been very powerful but has not been a complete way of understanding the world.
Jacobsen:Thank you for your time, Farhad.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Humanist Voices, Unpublished)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/09/04
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: When it comes to critical thinking, which you are well acquainted with as an educator for over 20 years; what are your main tips?
Farhad Dastur: My first statement would be perhaps a controversial one or one that people haven’t thought about but I think there is a tension between critical thinking and creative thinking. Now, educators and others will often say we need to teach our students to be critical and creative thinkers as if those are somehow complimentary and I think they’re not complimentary at the same time. They are in a systematic way, in a way where there’s a process. And the reason I say that is I believe creative thinking is the putting together of disparate ways of looking facts observations in a way that has coherence and that solves some problem, whatever that problem is and it does it in a way that’s kind of unexpected and powerful.
Critical thinking is opposed to that way of doing it because it’s constantly seeking evidence. It’s constantly saying show me the proof, don’t go too far, there’s no evidence for that; it constrains your way of looking for pattern when in fact in most cases there isn’t but creative thinking is the opposite. It’s looking for pattern all the time. So, what I’d like for my students is to understand that these are different modalities of thought and you use them at different times. So, when you’re doing science, you probably want to start with creative thinking because something is bothering you intellectually and something doesn’t make sense. It doesn’t make sense why giraffes have such long necks, right? Because there’s a lot of grass around. And why is it that a long neck could be actually quite dangerous in terms of being broken or when they drink water, they have to be quite vulnerable. So isn’t there a better way of doing this? So, at that stage of coming up with a hypothesis for the long neck, you don’t want to be critical; you want to be creative. You want to come up with some very radical new outlandish ideas, be playful in the putting together the construction of these notions.
Now when you have this outrageous hypothesis that everyone’s laughing at and saying it can’t be true or you’re out to lunch, now when you design the study to test the hypothesis; this is where you want to be critical because you want to now subject that crazy notion to all the tools of scepticism of confounding interpretations, of alternative explanations, of bias, etc., so that you can narrow in on an explanation that is resilient to these alternatives. So, critical thinking is absolutely important and necessary in terms of teaching students what it is and how to do it but the component that has been missing is what is its relation to creative thinking and when do you engage in it.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal (Unpublished)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/09/04
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: We’ve known each other for a very long time and you’ve mentioned me on and off for a very long time and I wanted to touch on a few topics. One was teaching, the next would be mentoring, and the third would be more recent for you which is fathering. When you engage an indoors classroom for teaching, what mindset are you taking into account?
Farhad Dastur: Great question! I think for me at this point in my life where I’ve been teaching for a good 20 years, I am much more interested in getting out of the way of the students and their journey of learning. What I mean by that is creating the conditions by which they will encounter ideas, challenging theories each other whatever the subject is, in whatever way we can experience different subjects; whether it’s experiential or intellectual or emotional. In doing so, creating many powerful opportunities by which that happens with me playing more of a sort of theatrical role behind the scenes like setting up the stage and the lighting, that kind of thing and letting the actors perform. There is a script, they all know what the story is but there’s also a large degree of improvisation involved and that’s a lot more fun for me as well. It’s a lot more interesting for me because students bring to every single situation history. They bring their personality, they’re bring their evolving understanding, their confusions, their anxieties, their brilliance, and their insights.
When you have a very structured lesson plan that is being funneled through some techno medium like PowerPoint or whatever style of presentation you have, you don’t allow for that. There’s no breathing room because you’ve got your agenda, you’ve got your talking points, and you might say are there any questions or let’s have a 5-minute discussion or this kind of thing but that’s an impoverished way of tapping into the richness that is in every social educational context. So, in terms of my teaching and how I engage students, I think it’s very much about allowing freedom for thought to come into a safe space where people can have difficult discussions. There’s not going to be any violence; that’s what I mean by safe. You can talk about complex difficult issues; you may not have the best language or vocabulary or theoretical context to do so but that’s okay. Even Einstein said the most complex ideas in principle can be expressed in simple language. And then you sort of step back and you let that magic happen. So, that’s where I’m at right now.
Jacobsen: If you take a difficult student, by which I mean a student who does not get a particular concept; how do you bridge that gap for them in that context, in a live context?
Dastur: That’s interesting. I mean I guess you have to you have to do a quick forensic analysis that’s where your experience as an educator comes in there. You see, when I say you step aside from that performative stage, I don’t mean that teaching is irrelevant and that students could just do online learning and self-directed; there’s a place for that, for sure. I mean something more subtle and more sophisticated than that and that is to enhance their opportunities for encountering difficult ideas. So, the first analytical step when a student is showing you that they’re not getting something is to deconstruct what they’re not getting. Is it because they’ve encountered the difficult proposition idea or theory whatever, in a way that was confusing to them? Or they didn’t understand the language, they didn’t have enough preparation background context, etc. That’s when you might need to step in and provide that context and say this is what we mean, here’s some previous elements that are going to make sense of this. Then you would do some work on that or it could be that their lived experience is creating some kind of barrier to even meeting you halfway there because there’s emotional trauma and there’s ideological kind of uncertainty. Let me give you an example, if someone is deeply profoundly religious, it’s going to be difficult talking about logical problems with the existence of an omniscient all loving God because they’re not ready to deconstruct your propositions yet in in terms of the logical discussion. They’re upset that you’re even challenging the notion that this can be done. And so how do you throw them into that deep water with the sharks? So, once you’ve understood what that individual’s barriers are then you have to kind of arrange for them to come to that place in a way that is more unique to their needs and understandings.
Jacobsen: What have you found to be the most difficult topic to teach or one of the topics?
Dastur: I think there’s probably categories of difficulty, these are different species. So, there’s difficulty in the sense of intellectually this is just a complicated thing to communicate and understand and wrap your head around. Other things are technically difficult. I’ve taught stats before and teaching things like the central limit theorem or what is standard deviation actually mean there’s a challenge there because again, you’ve got a lot of math phobia. So, you’ve got this baggage to even getting to that place and then you’ve got some technical language and a maybe they haven’t had good education up to that point in the tools needed to now deal with these types of concepts. So, I would say that it depends what course we’re talking about, what set of ideas we’re talking about. Probably the hardest thing to teach in general across all disciplines, and I hope this doesn’t sound too cliché, would be critical thinking because critical thinking isn’t one thing. It is an orientation, it is a set of attitudes, it’s probably a personality disposition and it’s a set of learned tools and a framework for thinking about ideas that most students have not encountered or they’ve encountered in an incredibly fragmented way. So, they don’t understand its power and its value and how to wield this intellectual weapon known as critical thinking. So, I would say that’s the difficult persistent problem for me as an educator.
Jacobsen: Also, you have a background in evolutionary psychology. This also involves biological and evolutionary knowledge. How do you manage the transition of a student from a creationist, even a young earth creationist perspective, to an up-to-date modern evolutionary perspective?
Dastur: Wow! That’s one of the hardest because you’re talking about what Freud called challenges, different world views. You probably cannot challenge a person at that level and why would you want to anyway? So, it’s almost like you have to acknowledge that I’m not here to threaten the way you see the world but I would like you to suspend your disbelief, your animosity, whatever issues you have around even talking about this issue and just come into the water sort of wasty and meet me halfway there. Even if it’s so that you can sharpen your own arguments against this radical motion; by all means do so, but you may discover in that process that there have been some unquestioned assumptions in your world view that will force you to think more deeply about the cherished ideas that you have held. That’s not a bad thing. Even if you come away from this discussion with a deeper conviction about what you believed which ironically or paradoxically is often what happens when two people have a conversation coming from diametrically different world views. they come away with reified notions or beliefs in their original starting points.
There’s a hardening of the categories but I think that’s often because we come at it confrontationally. So, there’s an agenda to change your opinion to show you you’re wrong through logical inconsistency, through the reductio ad absurdum type arguments of let’s follow your chain of reasoning to its extreme and this doesn’t change people’s opinion. It does the opposite and they try just as hard in sort of some kind of counteracting force to change you. So, we really need very different conversations where we start by saying look, I’m not here to change your mind but I’m curious about where there might be areas of overlap for, we might both agree on something. If we talk about evolution for example; can we agree that it appears that pretty much everything in nature has a purpose and that nothing’s random? A creationist would say, but that’s what I’ve been saying all along. But you’re the problem, you’re the one who’s saying everything’s random and then the evolutionist might say I’ve never said any everything’s random, I’ve always said things have a design. What I’ve said is where does design come from. Then the creationist will say well you say it comes from random genetic mutation and the evolutionist will say well I don’t say it only comes in there, I say that’s the starting point but then there’s selection and it’s a natural process, not a supernatural process.
So, I believe in purpose, I believe in design but I don’t believe it’s motivated by a single creative entity although I will agree that it could be. I just don’t believe it. I believe you can explain the creations that we see around us without resorting to that hypothesis as Pascal once said. And now you’re having a really interesting conversation where both sides realize they’re not 100% diametrically opposed to each other on every issue but there might be some fundamental disagreements about how we got there for those kinds of issues.
Jacobsen: There are online sites that have mixed possible outcomes or results in terms of this the interactions of students and professors. For instance, ratemyprofessor.com; do you think these are net benefit or net negative?
Dastur: I’m not going to be a politician and not answer your question by changing the subject but I would say that the inspiration for that type of evaluation which is very democratic in the sense that students can directly rate their professors without the administration of a university sanctioned evaluation system is very good. Why not, right? If that can provide useful feedback to future students as well as the instructor then that’s great. The problem is that very often doesn’t provide useful feedback. It becomes a place to vent there are errors, students will rate you for a course you’ve never taught before, they get the name wrong, the course wrong, and the range of evaluative components is very restrictive there. As far as I know, there been no reliability or validity sort of analyses of these sites where they’re asking questions that are capturing something real. They tend to be very simplistic in global ratings.
What I would like to see is a ratemyprofessor 2.0 which had the input of people with psychometric knowledge of faculty. What are the kinds of questions that if students were to rate you, would be meaningful to you? And how can we avoid the problem that the extreme ends of the distribution are the ones that are over represented? So, the people who love you and have this sort of unconditional regard for who you are and the way you teach and then the opposite of that; who can’t stand anything you’ve done and hate the class because of the subject or because of your hairstyle or something like that. And those are the ones that get over representative, is my sense, and the vast majority of the middle don’t. So, we need a better way of doing this but doing it we should.
Jacobsen: I want to transition a little bit into mentoring. So, you teach as well as mentor at Kwantlen Polytechnic University that is a local University in four locations; Surrey, Richmond, Langley and Cloverdale in British Columbia, Canada. If I take into account my own experience in mentoring with you, you go to great lengths to meet the person where they’re at. What is the importance of finding where that person’s coming from and building that bridge, meeting them where they’re at so to speak, to mentor them?
Dastur: Well, this is the deepest kind of education and its historical model of the master and the apprentice. And I’m not a master as such but in that mentoring relationship, someone knows something more than someone on a specific topic. Otherwise, why are they talking to each other? But it’s much bigger than that. There is the content knowledge and methodological knowledge that you want to communicate in a very powerful and personal way that mentoring allows that other forms of education don’t allow but there’s a lot of kind of hidden or secret knowledge that is also communicated about the politics of science or academia or other social forces that also gets communicated how to solve problems; not in a strict problem solving sort of pathway but in a more nuanced psychologically, politically, sensitive way. That kind of stuff is golden. It accelerates the apprentices’ understanding of how disciplines work or domains of work.
So, as an example, I was having a conversation with a faculty member from journalism and I’m in Psychology. She’s a newer faculty member and wanted to propose a degree change in her program and asked me what I thought about that and my sense was that the way universities operate is that they’re not motivated by good ideas primarily. You’d think that’s the way they would be but the but they are medieval structures with governance models that haven’t changed fundamentally in a thousand years. The Catholic church is a little bit older than University and for all their talk about innovation and student-centered learning and openness in terms of governance and the power structures and the disciplinary model that universities are based on, it’s exactly the opposite. So, my discussion with this faculty member was you should sit on certain key committees so that you understand how this place actually works, and it’s not just Kwantlen, it’s everywhere. So, when you propose this “good idea” you will understand the reasons why people are criticizing it or obstructing it. You will understand the quiet forms that the institution has developed to kill good ideas by sending them to further committee work for example or the sort of anti-aircraft gun flak that every good notion encounters such as budgetary constraints or doesn’t fit in with the mission or that’s not our disciplinary area, there’s a whole range of these types of attacks.
So, you need to be more sophisticated and take the big picture and you don’t know that unless you have a mentor. This was taught to me at a quite early stage because I taught at an American University where on day one, they assigned me a mentor. Now, presumably they were doing it just so I had someone to talk to about where I could find the photocopy machine and that kind of thing but in our conversations, I also learned a lot about the politics of the department. That was very useful information in terms of thinking about would I like to work at this place? Should I apply here? Who are the rising stars? Who are the dying stars? Where was the department going broadly speaking, in terms of the institutional direction? and those types of things that you’re not going to find in any website, it’s not going to be in the library, there’s no memo, there’s no email sent out but that knowledge exists in the hallways. How do you get access to it?
Jacobsen: In a research setting, how do you guide a student from very little statistical and methodological knowledge to more?
Dastur: Well, this the fastest way to do that, is for them to take a good stats course and a good research methods course with an educator who knows how to communicate those technically difficult ideas in a powerful way. In our department we have some very good people who do that. I don’t take on that burden because that’s an entirely different path but what I do is I say so you now have taken this course, you’re familiar with these techniques and these the pros and cons of different research methodologies; what’s the power of a correlational study in relation to a quasi-experimental study or a case study? And which one are we going to use in our study and why? And could we do better than that? If we could do better than that, why aren’t we doing better? Is it some limitation of ethics, of finance, of time of equipment, of access to the population?
So, the conversation I want to have and this is typically happened between me and my honor students, is you come up with the best research design which involves not only the methodology we’re going to use but the statistics and all of the other associated issues. Think about the research ethics, think about the constraints of your own program, of the amount of time you and I have together, of the funding we need, of where this is going, and how does this help the field, how does it help your career. Put all of that together and coming up with the best research design because if you don’t, I guarantee you there will be tears, there will be broken dreams, there will be gnashing of teeth down the road. You want to frontload those conversations and again that’s where mentorship helps because you can quickly guide the student to what are the problems with a certain approach. I mean if you want to find out if cell phones cause brain cancer because you’re holding the device to your ear, we could do a full experimental study but are we going to get approval to do that? No. So, you’re going to spend several months designing that study, putting forward a research ethics application it’s going to get shot down. So, what did you learn? Was there an easier way to learn that, that would have happened?
So, that’s the value of having the mentorship model in the context of a student who doesn’t have a lot of knowledge about stats research methods and also the broader social structures that are involved in getting research done.
Jacobsen: Given the broader social structures that are involved in Academia as well as the funding channels that are given to it within Canada, what do you think of the limitations of Academia?
Dastur: I think Academia is one of the most exciting things you can do with your life if that’s your vent, if that’s your passion, and if you understand what are the sacrifices you’re going to have to make and what are the constraints. If you if you get most of that, then by all means go all the way. I think a lot of students don’t have those conversations and so they do an undergraduate degree or maybe they do an honors program and then they decide to go to grad school because they’re excited about a subject and they want to study this and they’re going to research it and they’ve seen their professor and they’re like “Oh I’d like to teach these cool courses and have a lab and go to these conferences” Yes, that is part of what faculty do but there’s a lot of hidden things they do that you don’t see. There’s a lot of service committee work, there’s politics you’re dealing with, there’s the quiet preparation, the struggles that you are encountering in terms of your own ego in terms of your own struggle to be a better educator, a better researcher, finding your place within the hierarchy of the university and securing those funds, position, power, prestige, and all of that. That stuff doesn’t get communicated to students and that stuff is challenging stuff that may not fit with your personality and your goals.
No one ever tells you this stuff. A mentor might, which again coming back to the value of mentorship. So, the students see the good stuff but they don’t see the difficult and the long stuff. They don’t understand what does it mean to have completed 5 years of an undergraduate, maybe 6 or 7 years even these days with people who work, of an undergraduate degree and then do one or two years of a master’s and then seven years of a PhD and then maybe a postdoc. I know people who’ve done two postdocs and then you’re faced with precarious employment in terms of contract work, there’s not a lot of positions for full-time faculty members. Are you willing to move to get that sweet position? And then you’re playing the publish or perish game and that’s a lot to consider. You don’t want to be in your fourth year of a PhD program to go “I’m not sure this is the right path for me” So, there is real value in the faculty letting students know what is involved in this life; both good and bad.
Jacobsen: I want to move into the third topic mentioned at the outset which was fathering, as noted it’s a more recent topic for you. This is interesting because this is the day before your child is entering second grade. So, what has the experience been like in general?
Dastur: In general, it has been amazing. It has been transformative. It has been the best thing that’s ever happened to me. Now, the specifics also are consistent with that. I definitely recommend it for every man. I did it late, I was in my 40s and he’s an adopted son. He was three and a half when I first encountered him. He’s now seven, so he has spent literally half his life with me and he does have a biological father. I call him the genetic father and I’m the epigenetic father because the nurturing and the social context and all of the support that I provide him will influence his genes but also more than that, in terms of his development. That’s an awesome responsibility to know that this child is dependent on you in a very literal, biological, social way. He is dependent on you for food and shelter and protection but also in terms of love and affection, playtime, teaching them how the world works and teaching them good from bad, how to be polite and how to solve problems, how to deal with frustration and anxiety, and to role model that as well as giving them simple pathways by which they can achieve that and be successful and realize that they have efficacy in the world even as a little person. Also, how to get what they want in productive ways and that in fact sometimes you can’t get what you want or you can’t get what you want exactly when you want it.
Jacobsen: As a great philosopher said, “You can’t always GET what you want.”
Dastur: That too. So, I’ve learned more of about psychology in the last few years raising him than I learned in all of graduate school and it’s the most important deepest kind of psychology. It’s the psychology of encountering this other being that is simultaneously very deeply integrated with you in your life and dependent on you but is also their own little being. It’s a question of the tension between dependency and independency, I guess interdependency. It’s the tension between freedom and constraint. It’s the tension between letting them explore the world; both biological and social as well as their own internal world and providing guidance and constraints and limits for their own protection given where they are in their developmental journey. There’s no there’s no playbook for this other than the one that you encountered from your father or fathers in my case because I have a father and a stepfather or in some people’s cases maybe they had no father or maybe they had just a single mother or two mothers or all the different combinations and permutations.
We do know what fatherhood feels like from our experience of being father and then from our observation of other friends who are at the same place in our lives or a little bit ahead perhaps but I find that fathers of older kids are a great resource for me because they might be a little bit simplistic sometimes because they will say well this is how your son is going to behave when he gets this age but what they’re really saying is this is what my experience was with my son or my daughter and this is how I handled it but nonetheless you look for those gems within the noise. So, in terms of where I am in my life, fatherhood is the perfect thing for me. It is testing me and drawing deep on all of my skills of patience and calmness and love and teaching and mentorship. All of that comes out in a very specific condensed intense process.
Jacobsen: You mentioned patience, calm, love, teaching, and mentorship. The first two which made me chuckle were the ones you mentioned first; patience and calmness. Can you give an example of a difficult situation that came up?
Dastur: Well, the example was yesterday. So, he’d had a great experience in the weekend with his cousins and I went to pick him up from his grandparents’ house. It’s a hot day, it’s evening time and I said we’re going to go to the beach in White Rock and we’re going to play on the sand and make sand castles and he had a little boat he just got and I said we can put it in the water and see what happens when the waves hit. He’s totally into tsunamis right now for some reason, he’s learning about them on National Geographic Kids and he’s fascinated with the destructive power of nature. So, I said, “Well, we can create a little tsunami and see what happens to the boat.” And normally, he’d be overjoyed with this prospect and yesterday he wasn’t. He said “No, I just want to go home.” So, you have to kind of do a quick analysis. It’s kind of like that earlier question what happens when you got the student who’s not getting something and it’s like okay, do you not want to go because you’re hungry? Do you not want to go because you’re too hot or too tired? Or because you’ve had a lot of change already and you just want something more stable and something known? Or you’re just being a little punk and you’re just saying no? Or you think it’s fun and it’s a game or there’s something you’d like to do first but then you would want to do that?
There’s a lot of reasons why a child says no to even good things. So, you got to do an assessment and you back down and say fine we’ll do whatever you want or you probe further. So, I said “Why not?” And he said, “ We always go to the beach” I said “Yeah, that’s right but you always have a good time when we go to the beach.” He got more belligerent and was like no, just very adamant that he didn’t want to go to the beach but couldn’t give me a reason why. So, then you enter into a negotiation phase and I said, “Well, how about we just go for half an hour and if you don’t like it at the end of half an hour, we can come right back but I think you’re probably going to like it because there’s going to be some things you haven’t seen this time, like you’re going to look for some starfish” He was kind of grumpy about it, had to sort of pull him out of the car with a little bit of a crowbar and within 2 minutes on the beach he didn’t want to leave. Each parent understands the operating system of their own child and needs to know how far do you push something and when do you back down. When do you lose the battle because it’s okay to lose it because something else bigger or more important is going on and it’s a fascinating thing.
Jacobsen: For newer dads, what’s a tip for them? Something to expect and that they can prepare for it with this heuristic.
Dastur: Wow, I feel like I could probably write a book on this at this point. There are so many different ways to answer that question. I’d come back to the point that you got a chuckle out of which is to remain calm when you’re interacting with your child or any child and that’s because children are primarily experiencing the world and express themselves in emotional terms. Their volume switch may not be nuanced, so it could be fully on full loudness or nothing and if you’re not aware of your own buttons and your own ability to self-regulate, they can push you to an emotional space very quickly that you didn’t want to go and they can create a very bad interaction. So, if a child is having a meltdown, it is of no help for you then to have a meltdown. It doesn’t help the, it doesn’t help you and it’s embarrassing for everyone watching.
So, that calmness does a number of things; it allows you to assess the situation and find multiple solutions in real time that will not be accessible to you if you’re losing it and that may not have occurred to you. This was a lesson I learned from martial artists who repeatedly say regardless of the school of martial arts, that if you’re in a critical encounter an aggressive incident with someone the most important thing is to remain focused, calm, breathe deeply, and assess the situation. Sometimes that means engaging in an aggressive way in a defensive way, sometimes it means walking away, and sometimes it means talking to yourself out of it but at least you have multiple options. When you’re in a rage situation, you have no options other than aggression or some kind of traumatic breakdown. So, this calmness will give you that flexibility of behavioral options but it will also role model to the child that you’re the adult and that there is a way to calmly talk about issues that you have. You don’t necessarily teach them that in the moment because they not prepared to learn that lesson but later you can go over what happened and say “What happened there? Why did you have that reaction? Is there a better way of getting what you want next time without having to do what you did?”
Jacobsen: Thank you for your time, Farhad.
Dastur: Absolute pleasure.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Polskie Stowarzyszenie Racjonalistów
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/12/17
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Spotkaliśmy się w mało znanym duńskim pubie z Kają Bryx, Kacemem El Ghazzali i Kamilem Gawłem. Nie pamiętam, czy był z nami jeszcze ktoś. Miało to miejsce podczas Światowego Kongresu Humanistycznego i Walnego Zgromadzenia Humanists International 2023. Te spotkania są godne uwagi i ważne, ale stają się jeszcze ważniejsze dzięki takim jak te, indywidualnym spotkaniom. Moją rozmowę z Jackiem Tabiszem zainicjował ważny temat – Glenn Gould. Uwielbiam Glenna Goulda. Jest Kanadyjczykiem – więc tym bardziej: „hura!”. Zacznijmy od zmarłego Goulda, człowieka który, jak już powiedziano, dał z siebie tak wiele, że pozwolił poznać siebie tak niewielu. Jacku, jak odkryłeś jego muzykę?

Jacek Tabisz: Od dzieciństwa uwielbiam słuchać muzyki klasycznej. Jeszcze w czasach komunizmu w Polsce zainteresowałem się też światem muzyki dawnej, choć byliśmy odcięci od płyt z innych niż komunistyczne krajów, w tym od płyt kanadyjskich. Dla Polaków kosztowały one tyle co pół pensji. Po upadku komunizmu pojawili się w Polsce pierwsi dystrybutorzy zachodnich płyt, jak i miesięczniki o muzyce klasycznej, w tym dawnej. Szczególnie cenny był Canor wydawany przez Uniwersytet Toruński. To tam dowiedziałem się o sztuce pianistycznej Goulda. Na starcie byłem nieco sceptyczny, bowiem spragniony byłem klawesynowego Bacha. Lecz Gould od pierwszych dźwięków urzekł mnie swoją wyobraźnią i ogromnym talentem. Dziś rozumiem, że bez niego również klawesynowy Bach brzmiałby zupełnie inaczej.
Scott: Czy Gould odcisnął piętno na polskiej kulturze, czy tylko na tobie? Wiem, że ma na przykład gorących wyznawców w Japonii. Są też inni ludzie zakochani w tym zmarłym artyście.
Jacek: Glenn Gould ma zwolenników na całym świecie. Dość szybko przetłumaczono na polski słynne dzieła (książki, artykuły, DVD) Bruno Monsaigneona o nim. Wielu polskich krytyków muzycznych uznało go za istotny punkt odniesienia. Jeśli chodzi o pianistów, nie mogę wskazać osób tak zainspirowanych Gouldem jak kanadyjska pianistka i przyjaciółka wilków Hélèn Grimaud. Może dlatego, że sami mamy bardzo silne tradycje pianistyczne żyjące w cieniu wielkiego Chopina? Najbardziej zbliżył się do Goulda sławny polsko – węgierski pianista Piotr Anderszewski, o którym zresztą Mosaigneon zrobił również znakomity reportaż filmowy.
Scott: Jakie są Twoje ulubione jego utwory? Jednym z moich jest BWV 54 z Russellem Oberlinem.
Jacek: Szczególnie cenię z Gouldem drugie jego nagranie Wariacji Goldbergowskich, a także dzieła Haydna i wszystko co nagrał Schönberga.
Scott: Jakie były Twoje najwcześniejsze momenty racjonalizmu i humanizmu?
Jacek: W dzieciństwie, jako dziesięciolatek, miałem taki dziwny sen, po którym obudziłem się zadumany nad tym, że urodziłem się w tym, a nie innym czasie, w tym, a nie innym kraju, jako człowiek a nie na przykład jako motyl czy pies. Nie wiem, czy to było jakieś bardzo racjonalne, ale nabrałem wtedy dystansu do „ja”. Zdałem sobie sprawę z tego, że „ja” jest budowane przez okoliczności, a także dziedziczone. To dotyczy także wiary. Czy gdybym urodził się w Chinach, miałbym ojca, który brałby mnie do kościoła co niedzielę licząc na to, że zyskam „łaskę wiary”? Ale to nie kwestia ateizmu czy teizmu była w tym wczesnym przeczuciu najważniejsza. Najważniejszy był dystans, który zyskałem dzięki temu sennemu odczuciu.
Scott: Jak trafiłeś do polskiego środowiska racjonalistycznego?
Jacek: Dzięki internetowi. Wcześniej wydawało mi się, że jestem dość osamotniony w swoim ateizmie i racjonalizmie. Polacy byli bardzo wdzięczni Kościołowi za pomoc w walce z radziecką okupacją. Ja też byłem wdzięczny, ale zacząłem sobie zdawać sprawę z tego, że wolność ma wymiar nie tylko polityczny. Zanim jednak odnalazłem w internecie ślady niezależnego od komunizmu polskiego ateizmu i racjonalizmu myślałem, że jawny ateizm wyrażały tylko osoby kolaborujące z komunizmem, a to nie były dla mnie atrakcyjne osoby. Sam też trochę działałem w opozycji, byłem za młody aby działać bardziej, ale moi rodzice byli bardzo zaangażowani w walkę o wolność. Stąd wierna postawa mojego ojca wobec Kościoła.
Scott: Jakie były Twoje role i obowiązki w Polskim Stowarzyszeniu Racjonalistów?
Jacek: Teraz od kilku lat jestem wiceprezesem. Przez wiele lat byłem prezesem tej organizacji, a stałem się nim stosunkowo szybko po staniu się jej członkiem. Chciałem działać i miałem wiele pomysłów.
Scott: Jakie są według ciebie główne zagadnienia stojące przed dyskursem racjonalistycznym i edukacją publiczną w Polsce?
Jacek: Te zagadnienia się zmieniły. Kiedyś walczyliśmy na przykład o lekcje etyki i obiektywną wizję polskiej historii w szkołach. Teraz zagrożenia są inne. Ludzkość znów traci wiarę w wagę wolności słowa, a na świecie zaczynają triumfować nowe wielkie ideologie. Niektóre z nich wydają się piękne, ale moim zdaniem potencjalnie są zbrodnicze, podobnie jak pomysły Marksa. Z pewnością warto też walczyć z relatywistycznym postmodernizmem na rzecz modernizmu i popularyzacji nauki.
Scott: Jakie są najważniejsze inicjatywy Stowarzyszenia Polskich Racjonalistów, które uważasz za najbardziej udane?
Jacek: Z pewnością te dotyczące popularyzacji dostępu do lekcji etyki czy mające na celu wyrażanie bez obaw światopoglądu racjonalistycznego. W sferze projektów najbardziej lubię nasze interdyscyplinarne Dni Darwina współorganizowane z uniwersytetami i Klubem Sceptyków Polskich.
Scott: Kto był głównym współpracownikiem Polskiego Stowarzyszenia Racjonalistów?
Jacek: Wśród naszych głównych współpracowników mogę wymienić wspomniany już Klub Sceptyków Polskich, ale też uniwersytety, wrocławski i poznański, oraz fundacje i stowarzyszenia takie jak Wolność od Religii, Towarzystwo Humanistyczne czy wiele innych.
Scott: W Kolumbii Brytyjskiej, gdzie mieszkam, jest znaczna populacja osób niereligijnych, ale Langley, czyli tam, gdzie mieszkam, jest znane z niezbyt dużej populacji religijnej – tylko około połowy – ale z populacji silnie upolitycznionej i religijnej. Chcą, aby teologia fundamentalistyczna została wyeksportowana do polityki i kultury federalnej. Jedno z badań przeprowadzonych na lokalnym prywatnym Uniwersytecie Ewangelickim wykazało, że teologia uniwersytecka stawała się coraz bardziej fundamentalistyczna, w miarę jak otaczająca kultura i szersze społeczeństwo kanadyjskie stawały się coraz bardziej zliberalizowane i niereligijne. Czy w polskim społeczeństwie panuje podobna dynamika?
Jacek: Na razie w Polsce zachodzi po prostu szeroko pojęta oddolna laicyzacja. Ciężko powiedzieć, czy na jej tle narastają ruchy fundamentalistyczne. Są jakieś niszowe inicjatywy tego typu, ale ciężko powiedzieć, że jest ich więcej niż dziesięć lat temu, kiedy proces laicyzacji był dużo mniej zaawansowany.
Scott: Co jest najdłużej trwającym problemem w walce z różnymi irracjonalnościami w Polsce? Jednym z takich problemów w Stanach Zjednoczonych są fundamentalistyczni kaznodzieje niespotykanego dotąd rodzaju w zaawansowanych gospodarkach przemysłowych z wykształconym społeczeństwem. Płodni kłamcy, szarlatani, bombaści lub po prostu szaleni interpretatorzy Biblii działający tak z powodu Biblii, wrodzonego szaleństwa, albo obu tych rzeczy. Część z tego przedostaje się na mój lokalny obszar, ale kanadyjski liberalizm jest dla tego zaporą.
Jacek: Trwającym problemem w Polsce jest być może zbyt wysoki status księży umożliwiający niektórym z nich sporą bezkarność wobec nadużyć, takich jak pedofilia czy finansowe przekręty? W większości wypadków jednak problemy się zmieniają. Mniej się dziś obawiam nadmiaru katolicyzmu niż wspomnianych już ataków na wolność słowa i racjonalne myślenie związanych z kulturą „przebudzenia” czy poprawności politycznej.
Scott: Jakie były niepowodzenia środowiska racjonalistycznego w Polsce?
Jacek: Niepowodzeniami były liczne podziały po odniesionych sukcesach. Gdy tylko robiło się o nas głośno, od razu część członków stowarzyszenia oddzielała się od nas tworząc jakiś nowy twór. Z Polskiego Stowarzyszenia Racjonalistów wykiełkowała niemal połowa polskich organizacji laickich. Przeżywałem to dość mocno zwłaszcza wtedy, gdy sam byłem prezesem stowarzyszenia i ponosiłem dużą odpowiedzialność za część sukcesów, które z jednej strony cieszyły, a z drugiej stawały się zaczynem rozłamów.
Scott: Gdzie można dowiedzieć się więcej o środowisku humanistycznym i racjonalistycznym w Polsce?
Jacek: Cóż. Napisałem niedawno książkę „Nowy humanizm”, która obok warstwy filozoficznej zawiera przewodnik po polskich i światowych przedsięwzięciach humanistycznych i racjonalistycznych. Na razie książka istnieje tylko w wersji polskiej. Poza tym mamy stronę internetową i pozostawiliśmy wiele śladów w sieci, nie tylko polskojęzycznych.
Scott: W jaki sposób inni mogą wesprzeć wysiłki twojej organizacji?
Jacek: Od niedawna jesteśmy Organizacją Pożytku Publicznego, mamy też Patronite. Poza tym można nas wesprzeć przychodząc na nasze debaty, spotkania i uczestnicząc w naszych akcjach.
Scott: Jakieś ostatnie przemyślenia?
Jacek: Należy widzieć zmieniający się świat. Nie można na przykład jak francuscy sekularyści walczyć z Kościołem, którego we Francji już w zasadzie nie ma, nie zauważając w ogóle setek zagrożeń związanych z islamem. Nie można mówić i pisać tylko o eutanazji i aborcji nie dostrzegając narastających obecnie innych zagrożeń dla ludzkiej wolności, często budowanych przez środowiska, które dawniej były naszymi oczywistymi sojusznikami. Ani sojusznicy, ani wrogowie nie są wieczni. Zaś rzeczywistość jest złożona i nie można być monotematycznym w swoich działaniach.
Scott: Dziękuję za rozmowę.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Personal)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2024/01/03
“Scott, I have a favour to ask. You’re likely to outlive me.”: That’s a hell of an opener; okay, let me know, I guess.
See “Death’s Door.”
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Personal)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2024/01/03
Jesus Christ: Chief reasons for disgust with the figure are no condemning of rape, pedophilia, chattel slavery, genocide.
See “Big Items.”
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Personal)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2024/01/03
Pax Romana: You can massage Nature to make peace time, but you cannot remove Nature; Nature remains in charge; Parent to all.
See “We-Us.”
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Personal)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2024/01/03
Shrinking Pockets: The shrinking pockets for a god starting a universe shrinks in proportion to scientific discovery.
See “Empty Pockets.”
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Personal)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2024/01/03
Referential Associational Cascade: Words as qualia evolved as internal referents externalized for others’ internal meaning.
See “Maps.”
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Personal)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2024/01/03
You don’t get to decide when you go: but you do go when you do, wherever you do; and that’s warning enough for enough of us.
See “Chance.”
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/12/08
Abstract
Krzysztof Zawisza is the Founder of the Syncritic Academy. Zawisza’s biography on Syncritic Academy states: “Born 1963 in Lublin, Poland. In my youth, I was interested in astronomy. In high school, I was a laureate of the nationwide XXV Astronomical Olympiad, then I studied astronomy at the University of Warsaw, and at the beginning of this millennium, I was a participant in a doctoral seminar in the philosophy of nature conducted by the outstanding Polish cosmologist, Archbishop Józef Życiński at the Catholic University of Lublin. I am the author of several revolutionary yet unpublished (apart from placing them in such places as the website of the Section of the Philosophy of Nature of the Catholic University of Lublin) scientific discoveries. These include a new, fundamental law of nature, tentatively called by me the Rule of Chance, which says that even in random events and processes, there is an order and a mathematical formula for it. I also discovered and developed the once sought-after G.W. Leibniz’s method of creating a mathematical and philosophical language, i.e. a language that contains all absolute general truths and can always decide about the truth. I have also found the formula for a physical Unified Field Theory in the last decade. One of the multiple consequences of this formula is that just as we can split atoms, we can also split photons into parts to achieve antigravity and control matter, space and time by converting chronons (time quanta) into photons (energy quanta). I am currently refining and developing this discovery. People will need it to survive in the near future and for further, long-term development. Some of these works have already been very positively reviewed and evaluated, partly by Polish professors from various research centres and partly by members of various high IQ societies. I will write about other, even more interesting discoveries and ideas soon elsewhere. In my spare time I listen to classical music and read a lot. I especially like history books, classic literature, modern, well-written SF novels and science thrillers based on some interesting ideas. Sometimes I write (less often also publish) short stories and poems. In my life, I have traveled whenever I had the opportunity. During these trips, I managed to visit several times, among others: CERN in Geneva, the Vatican Observatory in Castel Gandolfo (Specola Vaticana), the Institute for Advanced Studies in Princeton, as well as various other research centers in Europe and America. I also like to learn foreign languages as much as I have time and strength. I speak and write in English, German and Russian. I also read texts in Latin and ancient Greek [Ἑλληνική]. I am currently learning Italian. I now live in the capital of Poland – Warsaw – with the 9-year-old mini pig Lola (who weighs almost a hundred kilos, though). I am a member of several international high IQ societies, including the Ligue of Geniuses and the Enigma High IQ Society. I am the originator of the Syncritic Institute, which aims to help people overcome the current crisis of science and culture and provide them with a good, developing and interesting future. Now, together with my best friends, we are organizing this Institute, inviting the most intelligent, creative and promising people from all over the world to join us. You can learn more about my work here.” Zawisza discusses: Syncritic Academy; the name of the academy; founding members of Syncritic Academy; Syncritical Institute; civilizational crisis; alternatives to academia; standards of academia at the University of Warsaw in the past; high-IQ communities; the experience with Archbishop Józef Życiński at the Catholic University of Lublin; the overarching goal of The Syncritic Academy; Rule of Chance; and other high-IQ collectives.
Keywords: Armin Becker, Arthur Pletcher, Bhekuzulu Khumalo, Carolina Rodriguez Escamilla, Christopher Langan, Claus Volko, Gina Langan, high-IQ, Jaime Alfonso Navas, Joanna Święcka, Józef Maria Hoene-Wroński, Katja Ujčič, Krzysztof Zawisza, Marlena Natalia Witek, Poland, Richard Louis Amoroso, Stanisław Lem, Syncritic Academy, Veronica Palladino.
Conversation with Krzysztof Zawisza on Syncritic Academy: Founder, Syncritic Academy
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: The Syncritic Academy isn’t precisely a high-IQ group and exactly a thinktank of the high-IQ. However, it’s created by high-IQ society members, as far as I can tell – as I recognize faces and people. It’s an interesting “social and scientific initiative.” The “why” comes first in this one. Why found it?
Krzysztof Zawisza: It’s a very important social and scientific initiative. We founded The Syncritic Academy because we noticed that there is an urgent need to defend the rights of highly intelligent people who are discriminated against in many societies. There is historical precedence for this unfortunate behaviour, where for example, “geniuses” have been persecuted by society and even burned at the stake in the not-too-distant past. Few people realize that this persecution has not disappeared but has, in fact, intensified in recent times, but appears in different forms. There is also an important need to use the potential of such people, which is always wasted in modern communities. As the famous Polish writer and philosopher Stanisław Lem wrote in “The Perfect Vacuum”:
“Es ist schlecht Geschäft, einer Genius zu sein!” […] “First come your run-of-the-mill and middling geniuses, that is, of the third order, whose minds are unable to go much beyond the horizon of their times. These, relatively speaking, are threatened the least; they are often recognized and even come into money and fame. The geniuses of the second order are already too difficult for their contemporaries and therefore fare worse. In antiquity, they were mainly stoned; in the Middle Ages burned at the stake; later, in keeping with the temporary amelioration of customs, they were allowed to die a natural death by starvation, and sometimes even were maintained at the community’s expense in madhouses. A few were given poison by the local authorities, and many went into exile. Meanwhile, the powers that be, both secular and ecclesiastical, competed for first prize in ‘genocide’, as Odysseus calls the manifold activity of exterminating geniuses”.
Many writers, chroniclers of social life, and thinkers have long drawn attention to the fact of discrimination and persecution of so-called geniuses. Balzac devoted a trilogy called “Lost Illusions” (especially the second volume titled “The Inventor’s Sufferings”) to this topic. The fact that every person who is cognitively far above average is perceived by social decision-makers as a foreign body and eliminated (including their physical elimination) has been noticed, among others, in the XX-century poignant novel of Soviet visionaries of philosophical fiction, Arkady and Boris Strugatsky, titled “The Beetle in the Anthill”.
The consequences of this state of affairs are disastrous, both for the most intelligent and creative people and for society as a whole. As the American writer and visionary Paul Anderson noted in the 1950s in his novel “Brain Wave”, the exclusion of the most intelligent individuals from society and the resulting undervaluation of reason is the direct cause of the collapse of subsequent human civilizations. My research and observations support Anderson’s thesis. We are currently facing another deep crisis and collapse, after which, as many times before, we will have to start many things over again (if there is someone to start them). To break out of this historical vicious circle, we must finally fully include the most talented and intelligent people in human society and stop excluding them. This is roughly what our Academy represents.
Jacobsen: Why the name “The Syncritic Academy”?
Zawisza: Because this name was available from the pool we considered and still suitably represented our mission. The name “The Syncretic Academy” was reserved by historians for the activities of Antiochus of Ascalon from the first century BC, while “Noetic Academy” (which we also considered at first) is, among others, the modern Education Academy in Bavdhan in India.
“Syncritic” (from “syncrisis”) means, in rhetoric, a figure of speech in which opposite things or persons are compared.”; and this is the role of our Academy. Our goal is to find and reconcile contradictions, both social and existing in today’s science, and to create a new synthesis beyond these contradictions and divisions.
Moreover, the words “syncrisis” and “syncritic” are so rare that no one actually knows what they mean, and that’s why there is a good chance that no one will make any undesirable associations with these names.
Jacobsen: Who were some of the founding members of the Syncritic Academy?
Zawisza: All our members at this stage of our project’s development are “our founding members”, and certainly, all of them are worth mentioning. Dr. Veronica Palladino, well-known in the high IQ societies (among others, thanks to the interviews you conducted with her), is an Italian writer, poet and doctor, with very wide interests (both scientific and literary) and enormous creative potential, based on very high intelligence, rich imagination and emotional depth. We will definitely hear about her again. Joanna Święcka, a Polish polymath high IQ philologist, is the author of the book “New Era. The Key to Reason”, which deals with the contemporary civilizational crisis caused by the undervaluation of reason and ways to overcome it. Currently, she is working on a new cosmology based on the famous and mysterious “Law of Creation”, discovered by probably the most original Polish mathematician and thinker – Józef Maria Hoene-Wroński. Jaime Alfonso Navas is a Mexican polyhistor and former child-prodigy, currently dealing with mathematics, astronomy and biology (he created, among others, a new definition of life), and the author of an extremely original idea of multidimensional conceptual art. In addition, Carolina Rodriguez Escamilla – an American polymath with Aztec roots – is an innovative scientific thinker, poet, engineer and creator of a new approach to mathematics based on the Indian cultural code (she published a book on this subject “TEOTL Theorem”). Her approach, based on the concepts of balance and order, can lead to an incredible simplification and orderliness in the way we perceive science. Arthur Pletcher (member of, among others, The International Society for Philosophical Inquiry) is a painter and published author of works in the fields of Astrophysics, Quantum Physics, Astronomy and Cognitive Science. Arthur combines different perspectives and different methodological approaches in his works, explaining in a very interesting way, among others, the last, extremely troublesome for the Big Bang Theory, observations of the James Webb Telescope. Marlena Natalia Witek is a Polish artist and engineer creating new physics based on a new paradigm of dynamic thinking about matter as not (more or less stable) particles and fields but on the vision of the Universe being a constant transformation of the information field. Her perspective gives hope for new, rapid technological progress and for the combination of physics and biology. We also have Armin Becker, who is our invaluable Project Manager (Armin composes music, is an expert in Nietzsche’s philosophy and develops the ideas of transhumanism) and Bhekuzulu Khumalo, who finances his physical experiments himself, revolutionizes the magnetic field theory (so far largely deficient in physics) and combines exact sciences with economics (Digital Economy and Knowledge Economics). Our recent member, Dr. Claus Volko (you also interviewed him several times), is the author of the epoch-making idea of transforming parasitic microorganisms into symbionts. This idea, well justified by its author, when it will no longer be excluded a priori from scientific discourse, has the potential to revolutionize both medicine and biology. We also have Katja Ujčič, a well-known therapist, artist and coach of highly gifted people. Katja has experience in supporting very talented people who, due to their high intelligence, are alienated from society and sometimes from themselves. Recently, Richard Louis Amoroso joined our Academy. He is the director of The Noetic Advanced Studies Institute, an original thinker and author of inventive patents and approximately 250 works in various fields written in 5 languages.
We also have very skilled associates. Our Webmaster, Kamba Abudu, is an experienced engineer who has been involved in Information Technology and related fields since the late 1980s, and our Executive Assistant, Joanna Łopusińska, is a Polish author of widely read scientific thrillers working at the University of Oxford.
Jacobsen: What is the Syncritical Institute within The Syncritic Academy?
Zawisza: Establishing the Syncritic Institute is one of the most important statutory goals of our Foundation. The Institute is intended to be a strongly supportive and friendly place for the most creative and intelligent people to live and work, and its goal is to provide an impulse for the further development of science, which is currently experiencing an unprecedented crisis that threatens (according to many well-known authors) the further development of our species. The Institute’s action plans also include educating extremely intelligent young people who, in today’s world, do not have their own educational and development path. A detailed project of the Institute’s activities (authored by me and Ms. Joanna Święcka) is available on our website.
Jacobsen: What does The Syncritic Academy define as the “deepening crisis of our civilization”?
Zawisza: Many scientists and publicists write about the crisis that we are currently experiencing in the development of civilization, and – above all – it is confirmed by facts. Generally, attention is paid to how global crises like ecological disasters, financial meltdowns, dwindling oil reserves, terrorism, and food shortages are converging symptoms of a single, failed global system. However, an even more important symptom of this crisis is the halt in the development of theoretical physics, which is described by such famous authors as Lee Smolin, Peter Woit, and Sabine Hossenfelder. The reason for this blockage in physics is not the lack of people capable of giving an impulse to the development of this very important branch of science. In our Academy itself there are several people whose works are much more complete logically, and sometimes also empirically, than many recognized theories of modern science. However, all of them are (like C.M. Langan’s CTMU theory) a priori excluded from scientific discourse, and the results of these works are covered by a conspiracy of silence.
The consequence of this halt of physics is, in turn, an impasse and even regression in the creation and implementation of new technologies that have been taking place since the 1970s. As Peter Thiel recently pointed out, we live under the illusion that the sea of applications and new models of what we already know, flooding our consciousness, is constant leaps and bounds of progress. The fact is, however, that recent decades have not brought changes in many aspects of human life. Progress has been particularly slow in areas where people have not only not been freed from hard, often slave-like, manual labour but whose work is not much different from what was done in factories in the late 19th century. For my part, I would like to add that, contrary to previous plans and hopes, a cure for cancer has not been found, we are not colonizing space, and the extension of the human lifespan is slowing down. Simple examples of not only the lack of technological progress but even regression in key areas are the continued (despite constant new announcements) resignation from returning man to the Moon and the cessation of the operation of supersonic passenger planes such as Tu-144 and Concorde and at the same time the impossibility of replacing them with other, more modern machines. Due to the depletion of fossil fuels and the lack of new, equally effective energy sources, we are threatened with a civilizational collapse, a terrifying vision which was recently presented by the famous British writer David Mitchell in his novel “The Bone Clocks”.
The most acute, however, is the crisis of human consciousness. This is evidenced by the ever-increasing number of suicides, as well as the increasing epidemic of mental illnesses that have plagued Western Culture for decades (as clearly stated in WHO reports). Living in a post-truth world seems to be largely responsible for this. The pursuit of truth, achieved in various ways, has been a religious, moral and life guide for people for centuries. The removal of this extremely important concept from today’s science and culture is undoubtedly the direct cause of the loss of modern man. As Felipe Fernández-Armesto writes about it in his famous History of Truth:
“Against the background of the history of the truth-quest, the scale of current indifference looks like a sudden, uncharacteristic and dangerous novelty. Embraced with conviction, the quest has always been a source of inspiration and drive. It has made progress happen and civilization work. We cannot be sure of getting any further ahead or even of surviving much longer without it”.
According to our diagnosis, the underlying cause of all these phenomena is the democratization of social life, which – apart from its undoubted positive values – has caused the erosion of social and scientific elites and a significant decline in the average intelligence of scientific and social decision-makers, which in turn results in the exclusion of reason as a human management centre. According to reliable estimates collected by Libb Thims, one of the founders of modern science, Gottfried Wilhelm Leibniz, had an IQ of at least 5.5 standard deviations above average. According to these estimates, Niels Bohr and Wolfgang Pauli, who created 20th-century physics, had an IQ of at least 5 standard deviations above average. Today, people with such intelligence are incomprehensible to average (and even extraordinary) academic professors, and that is why they are removed from science in particular and social life in general.
Jacobsen: Why are alternatives to academia important at the moment, as this has been a concern to the Mega Foundation for sure, Mega Society in some ways, and others and yourself – as you note?
Zawisza: The Mega Foundation, as far as I know, was created by Christopher and Gina Langan because Christopher’s important scientific theory of CTMU was (and is) excluded a priori by official academics from scientific discourse. Academic scientists did a similar thing with the brilliant book “The World’s Most Famous Math Problem” by Marilyn Vos Savant, in which this well-known high-IQ author drew attention to important logical biases in today’s mathematics and shortcomings in the modern methodological approach to the queen of sciences. It is true that mathematicians wrote one review of her work, in which, however, they rejected all of Marilyn’s theses out of hand, using hollow rhetoric and logically erroneous arguments such as non sequitur and ignoratio elenchi. Academic institutions today are unable to discuss and create science. They have given up trying to understand the world and ourselves and, entrenched in their defeatist positions, are now focused mainly on collecting and organizing knowledge about particular facts. For the purpose of classifying this knowledge, models and theories are created that no one claims to be true anymore but only “useful”. Therefore, today’s academy performs not scientific functions but library ones. This is undoubtedly due to the ongoing process of deelitization of science and the related decline in the average intelligence of scientists. This is a long-term process that has been going on since the Renaissance but has accelerated significantly over the last few decades. In the 14th century, when universities began to be established rapidly in Europe, we had no more than approx. 20,000 for the continent’s approximately 100 million inhabitants (according to the preserved data) students at all universities together. Today, out of approximately 750 million inhabitants of the old continent, we have well over 20 million university students. Assuming that students are usually the most intelligent people (those most eager for knowledge), this means that the average intelligence of a medieval university abecedarian could have been approximately 3-3.5 standard deviations above the average, i.e. it approached the intelligence of today’s “average” Nobel Prize winner in physics. Today, the average student’s intelligence is not much more than one standard deviation above the mean. This drastic decline in the intellectual potential of students necessarily entails a decline in teaching standards at universities. In the Middle Ages, this standard was teaching and practising logical thinking (or at least “correct associations”), known today as (unfairly ridiculed) scholasticism. A medieval student learning liberal arts (artes liberales) was able to compose music, deliver a clear and transparent speech written according to the principles of the art of rhetoric, refute philosophical theses using subtle, dialectical discourse, and determine the time by the position of the stars in the sky. Currently, students only learn knowledge about particular facts, often detached from practice, arbitrary models and the use of arbitrarily established cognitive schemes (algorithms), which, instead of developing reason and logical thinking in humans, are intended to replace them. The results of scientific investigations are blocked and excluded from “science” if they do not respond to current “social needs” or oppose social ideas about truth. The criterion of rational justification of scientific theses has today been replaced by the so-called consensus of scholars, which is a textbook example of the logical fallacy of consensus gentium. Nicolaus Copernicus, in his work De revolutionibus, wrote about many European scientists that “they are driven to the study of Philosophy for its own sake by the admonitions and the example of others, nevertheless, on account of their stupidity, hold a place among philosophers similar to that of drones among bees.” In the first half of the 19th century, Arthur Schopenhauer, in the Parerga und Paralipomena, sharply criticized the empty erudition and thoughtlessness of university professors. In turn, in the 20th century, Martin Heidegger, in his famous book “What is Called Thinking”, stated that “science does not think”, and in Vorträge und Aufsätze, he sees that Greek science was, in some important respects, much more precise and strict than modern science. Abraham Maslow called modern science “a kind of technology that enables creative actions by uncreative people.” At the same time, the famous writer and visionary Harlan Ellison noted that in our democratic era, “science bends to the will of the masses”.
In this situation, an initiative is necessary today that will restore the elitist character and the proper, rational dimension of science.
Jacobsen: When studying astronomy at the University of Warsaw, what were the standards of academia? How have those changed over time, whether the participants in academic sociopolitics and intellectual life, or the teaching, administrating, and publishing side of it?
Zawisza: I completed my studies at the University of Warsaw in the 1980s, when Poland belonged to the communist camp. At that time, especially after the declaration of martial law by General Jaruzelski’s regime, scientific contacts and access to Western scientific publications were severely limited. For example, when it comes to exact sciences, in Poland, we often used Western books and other publications translated from English into Russian and published in the Soviet Union. In contrast to today, a “student exchange” could only be dreamed of. Nevertheless, the substantive level and quality of teaching at university was higher than today. In the 1980s, higher education, especially mathematics and science studies, was still quite elitist. Today, due to the general increase in the number of places at universities and greater availability of higher education, the average intellectual level of both students and professors has decreased. Even at the beginning of this century, when I was working on discovering what I later called “The Rule of Chance,” I had no great problem discussing at least some parts of my work with professors, especially with older professors. At that time, there were already huge problems with publishing research works discovering new thinking paradigms, but I still received a number of official, very good opinions about my discovery from Polish professors representing various universities (they are now available on my personal website). Today, the very idea of discussing something that goes beyond only one generally accepted paradigm of thinking (or rather: a paradigm that replaces thinking) causes panic among academic lecturers and immediately ends in their mental closure and withdrawal.
Jacobsen: What high-IQ communities are you a member of now?
Zawisza: I am a member of The League of Geniuses, The Enigma High IQ Society and (created ambitiously by Randy Myers) the International League of the Highly Gifted. It’s not much, and it will probably stay that way for now. But in our Academy, there are people who, like Armin Becker or Veronica Palladino, have already joined a dozen or even several dozen high-IQ communities. Most of our members participate in various international (usually elite) high-IQ societies, although this is not a necessary condition for being a member of our Academy. A sufficient (although not necessary) condition is to have unique personal achievements in the scientific and/or creative field to the extent that certifies self-awareness, i.e. developed self-critical thinking. It is difficult to expect people who have probably created some ground-breaking scientific work or achieved something important in another cognitive sphere to be interested in taking intelligence tests, i.e. checking their intellectual potential and therefore checking whether they are able to potentially achieve what they have already achieved. Many people notice that solving a difficult scientific (or thought) problem or creating a new, important theory is the best test of intelligence, i.e. of having high-quality cognitive abilities. As intelligence increases, not only does the speed and efficiency of cognitive processes increase, but their quality also changes. According to my observations, at an intelligence level of five standard deviations above the average, there is the ability not only to associate efficiently but also to think abstractly, i.e. to abstract from associations. The currently used high-range testsusually do not capture this difference between association and thinking. However, if people who want to join our initiative do not yet have clear cognitive achievements, their IQ test results will, of course, be considered.
Jacobsen: What was the lesson in the experience with Archbishop Józef Życiński at the Catholic University of Lublin?
Zawisza: For a doctoral (PhD) seminar in the philosophy of science conducted at the Catholic University of Lublin by Archbishop Prof. Józef Życiński, I joined in the early 2000s with the hope that this generally very good natural philosopher, cosmologist and erudite would be able to understand, accept and support the results of at least some of my investigations, which were already met with interest in the scientific community, but at the same time with fear. In the beginning, my cooperation with the Archbishop was good. The progress in work on the Rule of Chance that I systematically reported at his seminar aroused his serious interest, which resulted in him sending my completed work to Prof. Konrad Rudnicki, then well-known in the scientific world astronomer, cosmologist and philosopher of science. Prof. Rudnicki rated the work very highly, and he was followed by several other Polish professors who clearly positively assessed both the idea and the empirical tests I performed to verify this idea. Then Archbishop Życiński, as well as his friend, later winner of the famous Templeton Prize, Fr. Prof. Michał Heller, began to insist that I send several different articles about this work to various scientific journals, offering them both as reviewers. However, when it turned out that no journal was willing to accept the articles for publication (all of them, including “Nature”, replied after an unreasonably long waiting time that the work should be published by “someone else”), both reverend priests-professors withdrew their support, and they started avoiding contact with me.
I described both this story and the conclusions drawn from it in one of the texts on the website of our Academy. I continued working on the empirical testing of the Rule of Chance in the following years together with my two colleagues from UMCS and the University of Warsaw (Dr. P. Kowalski, K. Modro). All tests strongly confirm the validity of the theory. Last year, the largest Polish publishing house, WAB, published Joanna Łopusińska’s novel “Zderzacz” (“The Collider”), the plot of which is the discovery of the Rule of Chance. The film/ series version of the novel is scheduled for release within the next 3 years.
Jacobsen: What is the overarching goal of The Syncritic Academy? How does this feed downstream into its leadership direction and targeted objectives as an academy?
Zawisza: Our Foundation, called the Syncritic Academy, is, as far as I know, the first social initiative in history (maybe with the exception of the Pythagorean Union that existed 2500 years ago) that aims to overcome social exclusion and discrimination of people who are exceptionally intelligent and innovative/creative and determined preventing the destruction of their cognitive potential and the waste of their work.
With their power to change the known world, exceptionally intelligent and talented people have always aroused fear and the desire to be excluded from the “human herd”. However, in a modern democratic society, focused on “equalizing” opportunities (i.e. usually levelling down), emphasizing “social equality (as above)” and universal access to education and culture, outstanding individuals are particularly undesirable. The members of our Academy are people who, without exception, have experienced, to a greater or lesser extent, discrimination and social exclusion, as well as aggressive and persecutory reactions, including – most often – a persistent attempt to block and keep silent about their works.
The well-known Soviet writer and poet, Vadim Shefner, already in the 1960s wrote a quite appealing but shocking story, A Modest Genius, in which he shows how mediocre and little-changing innovations and inventions are socially promoted, while important, beautiful discoveries and truly groundbreaking works are programmatically unnoticed and wasted, and their authors are pushed to the margins of social life.
There is still a widespread view that the social ostracism faced by exceptionally intelligent and creative people is an inherent part of human history and that this state of affairs is allegedly unchangeable and natural. We do not agree with this view. No society can call itself a modern and humanitarian society, and no rule can claim to be a rule of law if it excludes and destroys the most intelligent individuals and blocks their creative, sometimes revolutionary, and sometimes even epoch-making achievements. We live in times when (especially in the areas of Western civilization) we strive for social inclusiveness and discriminating against people based on gender, age, sexual orientation or ethnic origin is met with unequivocal condemnation. At the same time, however, the same Western communities try not to notice the existence of discrimination and social exclusion due to high intelligence, as written by, among others, Michael Ferguson in his famous article “The Inappropriately Excluded”. Eviatar Zerubavel, an American sociologist dealing with the processes of social denial, silence and exclusion, states in his also well-known book “The Elephant in the Room”: “Science, nominally established for the purpose of producing cognitive progress, turns out to be an extremely conservative field, hard to tolerate innovators”, and he adds: „this very act of social denial is itself denied.”
In this state of affairs, the creation and development of our initiative to publicize this state of affairs and fight against it becomes both a rational and moral necessity. As one of our members, the well-known Dr Claus Volko, has long argued: “Somebody should start a ‘gifted-awareness’ movement to highlight the problems of the highly gifted, similar to the LGBTI movement”.
Jacobsen: What is your Rule of Chance, extending on the basic definition of “even in random events and processes, there is an order and a mathematical formula for it”?
Zawisza: The existence of the Rule of Chance, discovered by me more than twenty years ago, was already predicted by the co-founder of modern science and continuator of classical Greek thought – G.W. Leibniz. This German scientist and philosopher noticed that it is impossible to draw a chaotic arrangement of dots on a piece of paper. Because no matter how much we try to make the arrangement of dots irregular, we can always connect these dots with a line into some shape. A geometric shape is a certain function or relationship, therefore, a rule defining some order. Leibniz generalized this observation by discovering the Principle of Universal All-Union (“The absence of a union is also a union”). I managed to notice and describe the mathematical formula that governs the so-called random distributions of elements in space and time. This formula shows that for purely logical reasons, the simplest proportions are most probable ones. The simplest proportion is the so-called golden proportion (aurea sectio). This rule will allow us to predict things such as the most likely arrangement of the orbits of newly discovered planets, and explains the previously mysterious prevalence of the golden ratio in nature. However, the Rule of Chance also has a much more fundamental meaning. It illustrates the fact that all, even the most “independent” elements and processes of the Universe are stochastically interconnected and that we all form a unity at a basic level with all other beings and with the entire Universe. Therefore, both together and each of us individually, we represent the entire Universe and we are never isolated in It.
Jacobsen: What other high-IQ collectives seem similar to The Syncritic Academy? What is the incentive and invitation for others to join The Syncritic Academy?
Zawisza: Unfortunately, I don’t know any other high-IQ collectives that set similar goals to ours. If such groups appear, we will, of course, be happy to cooperate with them. Today, we invite to our Academy all people who have high cognitive potential, have unique achievements in the field of discovery and/or creativity and who want their skills and work not to be wasted but to serve people. We will fight to provide all such people with material and mental conditions to develop their talent and work, and we will ask them to promote and support our ideas and, if possible, help other members of our Academy in their work.
Jacobsen: Thank you for the opportunity and your time, Krzysztof.
Zawisza: Thank you for your interest in our Academy and for spreading the word about our initiative by interviewing us, Scott. I wish you all the best on your important path to keeping apprised of high-IQ community developments and letting people know about them.
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Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/12/08
Abstract
Tianxi Yu(余天曦)is a man who’s interested in IQ tests. Yu discusses: the high-IQ societies developing in China; any new ultra-hard tests; numerical stuff; new hobbies; high-IQ societies; building a career; checks and balances; most important positive news; the Chinese high-IQ community; and notable members.
Keywords: Americans, China, Chinese, CPC, Europeans, intelligence, IQ, Mahir Wu, Tianxi Yu.
Conversation with Tianxi Yu (余天曦) on Chinese High-IQ Communities: High-IQ Community Member (4)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Let’s cover some news for you, personal and professional, how are the high-IQ societies developing in China?
Tianxi Yu: Activity is slowly declining, people don’t care much about IQ tests and related topics anymore, and are more likely to discuss life, entertainment, and do more realistic social communication.
Jacobsen: Have you taken any new ultra-hard tests? If so, how have you done? If not, why not?
Yu: The last submission was Mahir Wu’s CAT2, the only Mahir’s test I hadn’t submitted before. It is one of the toughest spatial tests, and I obtained a score of 30/36 with an IQ=179 SD=15. It’s probably been a long time since I’ve done IQ training, and CAT2 is the only Mahir’s test I haven’t gotten a first on, and I’m currently ranked probably third!
Jacobsen: You tend to perform very well on numerical stuff. Obviously, everyone, in the professional world of psychologists, psychiatrists, psychometrists, and the like, agree on the fact of general intelligence and its higher heritability as one ages or develops. Less smart parents can produce more smart kids; more smart parents can produce less smart kids. However, smart parents are more likely to produce smart kids; and, less smart parents are less likely to produce more smart kids. Environmental factors play a decent role, especially in early development. However, culture can make already high lopsided intelligence even more so – average verbal and genius level numerical intelligence. For instance, a culture with a robust mathematical and numerical education – drilling math sense into kids – can make someone’s innate math and numerical sense and abilities even greater. Did this seem to happen in your case? The stereotype in the West is China has a great intensity on mathematical and numerical education. If true, then it’s just a statistical generalization (generalized fact), not a stereotype.
Yu: I was trained in math when I was young, starting with bead counting and waiting until I was in elementary school to take OU training. I grew up in Hubei province, which is a major education province in China, and the difficulty of the exams is among the highest in the country, so we were arranged to participate in many competitions from a young age, which also made me bored with exam-oriented education. In high school, I did not continue to participate in competition training, but this may be a regrettable choice for me, because I showed talent in mathematics, science and chemistry subjects, especially physics, if I insisted on competitions at that time there may be more choices. But I’m relieved now, after all, I’m doing well now. In China, there is a word called “卷(juan)”, which means vicious competition due to uneven distribution of resources, resulting in people having to spend more to get less in return. At present, the phenomenon of “juan” is getting more and more serious, and ordinary people can only live an ordinary life by working very hard. This may answer your question, China emphasizes all aspects of education, not just numbers, and if graphing had a curriculum, the top of the spatial IQ test would probably be Chinese as well lol.
Jacobsen: What have you been doing in the meantime, personally? Any new hobbies since our last interaction?
Yu: I got into the government service through a tough competition, currently working in a biology lab, and have been busy in the midst of a new job lately. What I’m interested in, is probably reading books, I’ve bought more than twenty books this year, but I’ve only read about ten of them because I’m too busy with my work. Most of the books I’ve read lately are related to politics, economics, and culture, and I’ve been fascinated by their contents. Two of the books that have impressed me the most, “Being Inside” by Xiaohuan Lan and “The Rise and Fall of Nations”, I used to have a misunderstanding of macro and even disdain for it, but now world macro has a deep attraction for me and makes me want to study it.
Jacobsen: What are the updates with the high-IQ societies in which you’re involved, including CatholIQ, Chinese Genius Directory, EsoterIQ Society, Nano Society, World Genius Directory?
Yu: I haven’t followed these societies for a long time, and have previously requested the Chinese Genius Directory and the Esoteric IQ Society to remove my name, but have gotten no response from either. I think there are certain problems with the current IQ societies, such as less attraction, less marketing ability, and no ability to keep people active.
Jacobsen: Professionally, how are you building a career, training, or pursuing some passion now?
Yu: Maybe my answer won’t satisfy you too much. My attitude toward life in the moment is to keep alive without serious ambition, retaining hope for the future, retaining curiosity and the ability to explore the frontiers of the world, and then trying to work at my current position without being laid off. That’s my attitude at the moment. The economic situation now is very bad, and even China has internal and external problems. Let me tell you a set of data, the youth unemployment rate is no longer published, before that it has been maintained at a high level of 20%, and in the Great Depression in the United States in 1927, the rate of unemployment for the whole population was just about 25%. Now China’s employment is very difficult, I took the government office last year, ten years ago, no one to go to the government units, but now with the economic downturn, the number of exams more and more people, the national average enrollment ratio has remained at more than 70:1, many positions are several thousand people in the admission of a person, the first two years there was a 25,000 people competing for a job situation. As for why I test government agencies, because outside the system is worse, even companies like Tencent, Ali, Huawei, also in the big layoffs, many graduates work for a few years, even in the probationary period when they were laid off. It’s not hard to explain why I stayed negative about the passion.
Jacobsen: What can provide some checks and balances for fraud within the high-IQ communities? When it does happen, I am aware. People don’t take kindly to it. Props to the high-IQ community for doing its own clean-up, not every industry or community can say that. It’s about incentives because everyone suffers reputationally if not handled.
Yu: I’ve thought about this too, and it can only be done through very strict offline exams, with increasing the reputation of highly intelligent people, to create a virtuous cycle, and I’m going to go ahead and make the relevant push, won’t reveal too much until then.
Jacobsen: What do you think the most important positive news in the Chinese high-IQ world at the moment?
Yu: Embarrassing, none, hopefully there will be one in the future.
Jacobsen: How could the Chinese high-IQ community integrate better with the international high-IQ community? Traditionally speaking, it’s been dominated by the Americans and the Europeans. I think that’s a relatively fair, objective, and factual statement.
Yu: I think it is difficult for China’s high IQ group to integrate into the international high IQ group. China’s national conditions dictate that it is the people who are more in tune with the social system who are in control of the society, not the smarter people. Chinese society has been like this for the past 5,000 years, emphasizing inheritance, conformity, and unity in order to do great things, and it is very difficult to change in the short term. This set of thinking may be a bit pedantic nowadays, and people have already understood the drawbacks of the previous system, but the good thing is that the CPC is also actively selecting young cadres nowadays, and also reducing resistance for young people, so hopefully, in the next round of the Kampo cycle, the whole of China will be refreshed.
Jacobsen: Who are some new notable members of some of the Chinese high-IQ societies?
Yu: Unfortunately, not many new people are joining us at the moment.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/12/08
Abstract
Tomáš Perna is a Member of the World Genius Directory and a GIGA SOCIETY Fellow. Perna discusses:Clay Eva; the traitor of Clay Eva; mathematics; a “deep belief in God”; matrilineal passing of intelligence; an elementary level; Hamlet; consciousness; the explanatory gap for consciousness; defining “consciousness”; the fundamental quandary; personal identity; a common issue in many religions; Jesus Christ the Son of God; and Virtue Ethics.
Keywords: Clay Eva, consciousness, explanatory, God, Hamlet, mathematics, matrilineal, religion, Tomáš Perna, Virtue Ethics.
Conversation with Tomáš Perna on Clay Eva, mathematics, God, and the Explanatory Gap: Member, World Genius Directory (5)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: What were the leadership roles of your grandfather’s brothers in Clay Eva?
Tomáš Perna: Clay Eva was the resistence movement organization, which mapped the important german military positions in the east Moravia in order to prepare the great uprising against nazists there, in an association with organized partisan groups. The informations about the nazi-positions was sent via two radiostations Eva of the resistance leadership staff in Hostýn to London. Both Kubič brothers were its members with narrow connections to partisan groups and parachutists send to Maravia from London. (One of the brothers was the owber of the hotel in Hostýn, where not only the main staff was located, but also the parachutists sent from London found their refuge.) The group was betrayed by one its closest cooperator and both brothers arrested and hardly tortured and finally gassed in concentration camp Mauthausen. After the Second world war, they obtained in memoriam the highest czechoslovak award for bravery.
Jacobsen: Who was the traitor of Clay Eva?
Perna: The teacher František Bednář, called “malý Franta” (the small Francis) and additively by František Šmíd, called “velký Franta” (the great Francis).
Jacobsen: How does mathematics seem like an applied philosophy to you? Most would see it as an abstract exercise.
Perna: If you take the basic trinity of maths: definition – theorem – proof, you should define only what you contextually understand with respect to basis of some process of meaningful putting questions as far as beings sense is considered. Since the problem of the truth is coupled with the being, some theorems should emerge characterizing this fact. And this is the case only then, if they can be considered as being true in the context of the searched truth of being.
Jacobsen: With a “deep belief in God” to make sense of the world, what might be the attributes of God to give sense to the world?
Perna: I think that the same like those being possessed by a man giving a sense to the God. Unlike Him however, you can never know all such your attributes, since you are part of Him and you can never be an attribute of your own (selfdual, expressed methaphorically).
Jacobsen: Is this matrilineal passing of intelligence being supported by modern psychometric research?
Perna: I have not noticed it so far.
Jacobsen: “What is an elementary level, however?” That’s a good question. I ask you.
Perna: As to my understanding, the elementary level is the first recognizable step, on which a temporality is emerged from an eternity.
Jacobsen: What makes Hamlet a genius production?
Perna: The satisfactory intelligent creative force to be able to avoid in our times manifestable, postmodernistic-like forces making the dramatic figures idiotic via reduction. – Many contemporary dramatic figures – many idiots, one Hamlet – one genius.
Jacobsen: Why is there a premature declaration of premature consciousness in artificial intelligence, or computer algorithms, rather than simply a declaration of some forms of artificial intelligence without proper reasoning capacities – like sufficiently complex statistical analysis to dupe people into believing there is a self there?
Perna: That I don´t know. Maybe, the main reason is an emergency of Uebermensch within AI and aNN systems creators minds. Namely, when an AI-system can possess its own self, then the selfs of usual people can be controlled by infallible Uebermenschen, with Ueberselfs, the AI-system-selfcreators. – By the new gods. And, furthermore, when such a new god comes to the investor, he automatically obtain money for creating some sort of economical Uebersystem for him personally.
Jacobsen: Why are neurons the explanatory gap for consciousness?
Perna: Only on the classical level, when you suppose the the computations performed by neurons is so complex that it is not possible to imagine that such a complexity cannot look like a consciousness. The fact that all such computations must be already conscious implies simply that neurons are selfdual with the neural network, what is a contradiction. Nobody knows, who assign the identity to such an logically inconsistent system, when we consciously avoid the religion´s answer.
Jacobsen: Also, how are we defining “consciousness” here? I forgot to ask.
Perna: I have just answered your question, as far as the mentioned neuron level is concerned.
Jacobsen: Is the fundamental quandary experiencing the presence of God, Himself, only in light of belief in God, where God grants the experience if believing and returns the opposite favour if disbelieving? A certain experiential ethical symmetry of God to Man.
Perna: Some kind of such an ethical symmetry I have mentioned in my answer ad 4) already. Since we are not able fully to imagine ourselves such a great symmetry, we cannot decide, whether the so called “disbelieving in God” is simply not a part of it, manifestitng itself in a mutually complementary relation with each other on the human being´s level of the ethical goodness.
Jacobsen: How is personal identity a miracle? Is there a manner in which to provide a functional explanation for it – the how, even though the why is God gifting it?
Perna: I will answer shortly: Paramatmas in our hearts must be mutually different to be the same as the God. This objective differentiations assign a completely original subjective identities to ourselves. Under AI-consciousness controll, we all will be Smiths.
Jacobsen: Is a common issue in many religions a sense of “superiority” and an “owning system”?
Perna: Without a sense of superiority and “owning system”, there were not erring human being trying to become infallible with respect to the God by means of religions of its own.
Jacobsen: How is Jesus Christ the Son of God?
Perna: If “I am” is the truth, then adding to this truth the words “way” and “life” prevents me as the truth from being the God with His “I AM” in this additive sense. Using these additive words, Jesus as a human being permits to be only partially equivalent to the God. With all these words Jesus becomes the Christ and in such connotations I believe that He was the Son of the God. Roughly speaking: I am the truth is less than I am the truth, way and life and it is less than I AM.
Jacobsen: What values in Virtue Ethics matter the most to you?
Perna: The mentioned “ethical symmetry” via Jesus Christ with the God. So the maximal ethical value is “I am” respecting all “I am” for me.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/11/01
*Please see the footnotes, bibliography, and citations, after the interview.*
*Interview conducted on May 10, 2020.*
Abstract
Corey Moraes is Tsimshian. He was born April 14, 1970, in Seattle, Washington. He has worked in both the U.S.A. and in Canada. He has painted canoes for Vision Quest Journeys (1997). He was featured in Totems to Turquoise (2005), Challenging Traditions (2009), and Continuum: Vision and Creativity on the Northwest Coast (2009). He earned the 2010 Aboriginal Traditional Visual Art Award and Grant from the Canada Council for the Arts. His trademark artistic works are Coastal Tsimshian style with gold jewellery, limited edition prints, masks, silver jewellery, and wood carvings. Moraes discusses: meaning of Tsimshian; original language; abalone; populated areas; cultural knowledge deterioration; chiefly titles; William Duncan; treaty process; and comprehensive treaty agreement stalled.
Keywords: abalone, Alaska, Asia, Corey Moraes, culture, Europeans, Eyak, Haida, language, Lax Kw’alaams, Prince Rupert, Skeena River, Terrace, Tlingit, Tsimshian, William Duncan.
The Tsimshian 3: Corey Moraes on Meaning and Cultural Knowledge (3)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: One question I should have touched on. Why does Tsimshian mean “inside the Skeena River”?
Corey Moraes: Our people, all of our terminology, our names for things had to do with where we were, e.g., Lax Kw’alaams means “people of wild roses,” which is what is grown in abundance in the area.
Jacobsen: Is learning the original language a big part of contemporary culture?
Moraes: It is a big part of the future for us to survive as a race and a demographic language. I’ve explained before. We say words or phrases that don’t translate literally into English. So, you’re losing a lot. You’re losing the language.
Jacobsen: What is the backbone of all the carving, e.g., abalone?
Moraes: The backbone of our carving is red cedar and yellow cedar.
Jacobsen: What is abalone?
Moraes: Abalone used to be in abundance. It has since been overhunted and over-gathered, all of which went to Asia.
Jacobsen: Why is that?
Moraes: They have a penchant for abalone meat. The industry here saw they could make much money by catering to Asian tastes. That’s where the lion’s share of it went.
Jacobsen: Are there more populated communities in Terrace, Prince Rupert, or just general Alaska?
Moraes: I need to find out the general population numbers. In going to villages around Terrace, Prince Rupert, and even Southeast Alaska, there is only one place with Tsimshian. The rest is either Tlingit & Haida or Eyak.
I stated this before. I decided to go into an area where they were steeped in cultural knowledge. They are not. The cultural understanding – 20 years ago – is primarily in a significant metropolis like Vancouver.
Jacobsen: Do you think the cultural knowledge has deteriorated further?
Moraes: There is a village mentality, “Who are you to tell me what to do?” They are very secluded. They are very nepotistic. They don’t treat outsiders very well. That includes members who come back to the village.
They don’t want you there, which is sad. Another example, a staunch example, Prince Rupert, is currently, at least within the last year or two, trying to commission artists to create a village atmosphere at their airport. They’re expanding.
They have a Vancouver architect in charge of fleshing out this vision with Tsimshian artists. They specifically want Tsimshian. The top Tsimshian artists, myself included, have backed off the project based on the scope.
So, they will end up with those village artists; they need to learn more about our historical forms to properly represent them in a public forum. That’s what they are going to end up with. I turned it down. Phil Gray turned it down. Morgan Green turned it down.
On top of that, a political aspect interfered with the visual scope of what they wanted to do. It was all centered around Lelu Island, the LNG Pipeline. Myself, I remain neutral on the subject. Phil Gray erected a totem pole on Lelu Island, and since it is not a designated reserve area or considered part of British Columbia, it is still an unceded territory.
He erected it without the approval of the Canadian government, and the government is threatening to remove the totem pole. There’s nothing on that island. There’s nothing on it. They had a shack that the protestors were using.
They’ve since gone against provincial law, and they’re trying to erect a cabin there right now. It is a mess up North. Art could be better.
Jacobsen: For ceremonial purposes, why are chiefly titles still used?
Moraes: You’re talking about hereditary chief titles, as opposed to elected chiefs.
Jacobsen: Yes.
Moraes: Elected chiefs are part of the colonial system. It is like being elected a mayor. But the hereditary chiefs, by and large, the villagers believe in that blood lineage that retains an element of power. Even though I’m afraid I have to disagree with it myself, irrespective that there are hereditary chiefs, they are irresponsible.
Just because your family came from outstanding stock six generations or eight generations back, much of it has been diluted. It goes hand in hand with what I said about the villagers and their accurate knowledge of traditional systems.
Jacobsen: In 1862, William Duncan, an Anglican missionary, established a Christian settlement in Metlakatla. We discussed some of the impacts of European Christian colonialism before.
Aside from the symbolic similarities between the symbolisms used between the religious or the spiritual traditions, why did several Tsimshian join Duncan?
Moraes: Like I said, the similarities between our spiritual systems, like the Nax’Nox, which resembled angels, for example. For example, our creation stories reached the baby Jesus and our desire to be the most progressive nation on the coast.
They thought it was the next logical and decisive step to completely abandon all of their belief systems and grab hold of both ends of Christianity. Because they felt if they did that, they would be the ruling power on the coast.
That was further from the truth. William Duncan had a strong sway over the villagers as it was developing. He wanted to avoid the Canadian government having their hand in his vision for this nation.
So, they scouted out land in Southeast Alaska and found an area that eerily resembled Metlakatla, BC. He convinced a large portion of them to leave with him. So, he could continue this vision unabated without the interruption of the Canadian government and everyone.
This whole thing is thing is even more creepy because my wife is from Metlakatla, Alaska. They call it “New Metlakatla.” In some ways, just like everything else, there are a lot of pros and cons. The pros were that they were evil to achieve what they thought they could do, which was to become more progressive.
It means they accepted a lot of colonial ideas. There are a lot of churches in Metlakatla, Alaska. There are a lot of people. Most people in Metlakatla believe in God’s doctrine and buy into it with just as much enthusiasm as they did leaving.
There is a particular tribe of Metlakatla Alaskan people. They left behind the village ways like there are in Northern BC. There needs to be more forward-thinking. There is a lot of nepotism. What happened there was an army base established there, a US Army base, because of its proximity to Russia.
Alongside military occupation came a lot of business. It was a thriving community for several generations. That all ended. They had their airport. Right? Their downtown had paved roads and established businesses.
I visited Lax Kw’alaams, my home village, for example, in 2001. All of the roads were still dirt, with lots of potholes. Since then, they have paved all of the streets. That’s how long it took for any sort of progressive community.
Jacobsen: Why did it take until 1991 for the Council to officially enter a British Columbia treaty process?
Moraes: Are you talking about Nisga’a?
Jacobsen: It was about the seven bands all together.
Moraes: You’re talking about the allied Tsimshian bands.
Jacobsen: Yes, in 1997, there was a framework for the comprehensive treaty agreement between the original seven bands and the Government of British Columbia. Then, this was stalled in some process at some point. Any background knowledge about that?
Moraes: There’s a lot of placating that the Canadian government does with the tribes by funnelling millions of dollars through the band councils, and a good portion of that, unfortunately, because there wasn’t transparency, meant a lot of misuse of funds.
A lot of those funds went to the head chief and his family, and anyone in the office was his family or his friends – a lot of nepotism. It is almost what the Canadian government wants to see. This divide and conquer mentality. What if we lead them and throw this chunk of money at the bands yearly? The problem will take care of itself.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/10/22
*Interview conducted on December 9, 2022.*
*Please see the footnotes, bibliography, and citations, after the publication.*
Abstract
Bob Marshall is from Southport, England. He has been crowned World Championship Blacksmith 5 times at the Calgary Stampede five times. He was inducted into the International Horseshoeing Hall of Fame in 1994. Marshall discusses: being a farrier; the term “blacksmith”; the techniques pioneered by the Egyptians; techniques mastered by the Romans adapting from the Egyptians; some rewarding experiences; differentiate between a skilled farrier and a less skilled farrier; the word “lame” and the term “sound”; World Champion five times; a more skilled farrier; training newer farriers; punishments; longevity; finding good farriers or a good farrier shortage; the industry; silica rings; an excellent job conducting their competition grounds and their treatment of the foot care of the horse; grass; Langley, British Columbia; the future; health concerns.
Keywords: blacksmith, Bob Marshall, Calgary Stampede, Egyptians, England, farrier, farriering, furrier, grass, lame, Langley, longevity, Romans, silica, sound, Southport, Spruce Meadows, World Champion.
The Greenhorn Chronicles 51: Bob Marshall, 5-Time World Champion Blacksmith
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: So, today, it is with Bob Marshall. So, regarding being a farrier, did you always work out of British Columbia?
Bob Marshall: No, I’ll tell you how I became a farrier, okay? Is that all right?
Jacobsen: Yeah, sure.
Marshall: Okay. First, I did a five-year apprenticeship with my dad in England, in the North of England. Then, after that, I was offered a job in the South of England, in the Cotswolds. And with the job came a house and so forth, and it was an exceptional opportunity for me because I wasn’t married then. But anyway, we got permission to get married, Adrian and I. We did, and we went down to The Cotswolds in England. And after that, I spent two years there and learned a lot of the… how can I say? I do not want to put my dad down. My dad gave me some excellent basics, absolutely first-class. I was allowed to see a few more high-quality horses. The people I worked with were organized, and I learned a lot from them.
My wife didn’t like it down there after a few years. So we went back to the North of England. I didn’t want to go, but my wife wanted to, and that was her. So I went back there. In the winter, in the north of England, it could have been better as far as horseshoeing goes because everything’s going to close down. There wasn’t much going on, hunting going on down there. Consequently, it was tough for us. Anyway, when I was there, somebody phoned me from Canada. They were the principal of a huge vocational school. In that vocational school, they had a farrier program, but the instructor of this farrier program decided to go off. They were stuck with a beautiful opportunity and offered me the job to go over there as a guest instructor. We scraped the money together. I still need to find out where we got it from, but we got the plane fare and off to Canada.
I get on the plane. Who am I sitting next to? This guy, a professional, was a furrier. I’m a farrier; he’s a furrier [Laughing]. We got talking. His hobby was collecting horseshoes [Laughing]. This is historically weird. Anyway, we got pretty friendly, and when we got to Edmonton, he said, “I’m going to make sure you get in the hotel properly because in Edmonton, at the moment, it is called Klondike Days.” Klondike Days meant that everybody in Edmonton, as we got off the plane, was all dressed in the same outfits they wore during Klondike Days. I thought I’d gone back in time.
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Marshall: [Laughing] Anyway, I can still remember he got me into this hotel; I think it was 14 dollars for the hotel room. I still believe it. Anyway, [Laughing] shows how naive I was; I’m going up, so I couldn’t get my luggage up. This guy picks it up and says, “Hey, that’s mine.” [Laughing] He said, “I’m just carrying it for you.” I said I’m not used to it. I realized, “Man, I’m from bloody Liverpool, mate, you do not do that” [Laughing]. Anyway, he got me to the hotel room and there he was, there was a phone and television. I said, “I didn’t ask for this. This is extra money.” He said, “No sir, they’re in every room.” I’m just trying to explain how naïve I was out there.
The next day, we got on this bus to Dawson Creek, one straight road. It was an eight-hour journey on a bus. I could not believe it, honestly. We eventually arrived, and the appropriate people greeted me and went to the school. But when they showed me this vocational school, it was a former Air Force Base. It was incredible. I mean, the buildings were massive; all central heated, all air-conditioned, and then they showed me the farrier shop. This is the first time I’ve seen something like it. I mean, all rubber floored. It was massive, like I said; it was air-conditioned, centrally heated, and I thought, “Wow,” there are all the forges lined up perfectly, and that’s how my career started in Dawson Creek.
There is a bit of a humorous side to this. Because there was a war, and many people decided to get into Canada and get out because they didn’t want to go to this war. So they all hid in the bush. I mean hundreds of these people. The Canadian government decided to bring them out of the bush and offer them a trade. So you can imagine what I was getting to teach to be farriers; I mean, these people probably had never appropriately washed for a long time because they came out of the bush, but the Canadian government did a good job. They brought them back, and they offered to give them a trade. That’s where I came in to teach some of these people the art of farriery.
I will jump ahead now to a few years later. I get a phone call from this guy, and he says you probably need to remember me; my name is Tim Biggins. I said, “How could I possibly forget you?” [Laughing] “What is giving you the cause to phone me?” And he said, “Bob, you wouldn’t believe it. What you did with me in Dawson Creek changed my life, I couldn’t care less whether I worked, but you allowed me to know what it was like to earn a good living.” So I said, “What are you doing now?” He says, “You wouldn’t believe it. I am the president of the British Columbia Blacksmiths Association.” You’ve got to be kidding [Laughing]. I said, “Where did that come about?” He said, “I was successful in blacksmithship, not shoeing but blacksmithship, and it went from there.” And I said, “What about your buddy?” A guy called Greg and he says, “You wouldn’t believe what he’s doing.” I said, “Go on, I probably would.” He says, “He is in the Kootenays with draft horses and shows them all.”
He said the two of us had had great experiences, and we are grateful for what you told us. I thought, ‘Man, that’s such a nice thing to say.’ So, I rolled on a bit on that, but that’s part of what this job has done for me. It is just incredible in many different ways. Does that make sense?
Jacobsen: You brought up the term “blacksmith.” What I have noticed, at least in the discipline of show jumping, some of the riders of the newer generation, a farrier is a farrier. To those in their 60s or 70s, those whom I’ve talked to, they will call a farrier a farrier. Sometimes, they will call a farrier, a blacksmith.
Marshall: Yeah. A lot of it depended on the area and so forth, but everybody understood it. He’s a blacksmith to horses. Oh, he’s a farrier to horses… it was pretty clear to everybody involved. I was often called the blacksmith in this place, but it was called the farrier in other barns that go down the road. So it is just one of those things. Both words mean the same thing.
Jacobsen: And are there any other trades that genuinely are as if they’re from the medieval period? You work with heat, steel, a hammer, and a nail. The techniques changed slightly, but the fundamental premises are the same.
Marshall: No, the techniques have stayed the same since the Egyptians. It was just after the Egyptians that they started to forge shoes. The Romans were some of the first to generate shoes and were good at it. They were staying in England, you see some of these stables, and they’ve got some old Roman shoes hanging up on the barn though to show everybody. The horses were more miniature in those days, in Roman days, but all the basics were the same.
Jacobsen: What were the techniques pioneered by the Egyptians?
Marshall: I believe the Egyptians used rope horseshoes; I read about that anyway. They used rope and horseshoes to cover the feet and protect them from being sore. And then they went on from the strings to solid steel.
Jacobsen: What techniques were mastered by the Romans adapting from the Egyptians?
Marshall: The Romans forged their shoes just like we do today.
Jacobsen: Wow.
Marshall: They were excellent blacksmith farriers thing. There are a lot of Roman shoes in the stables just hung up there to show. They were smaller because horses were more miniature. They covered most of the foot, which is what they needed to do. So it was still close. The Romans are clever. I mean, some of the roads they built. There’s a road called the Fosse Way when you come from the Coast of England. You get on the Fosse Way. It is dead straight for about 18-19 miles. There’s no curve in it. How did they manage to do that? It is unreal. And at the end of that, there are some ruins called Chedworth Cathedral, and the mosaic tilings and the concrete were stone pedestals that they put the floors on for the houses and the buildings. It was incredible; at the end of that, there was a giant forge, like a big fireplace. So, it is a centrally heated building built by the Romans. So incredibly clever people; it goes back to having my trade like this so I could travel and look at all this stuff.
Jacobsen: This is great. A lot of my best friends when I was in high school, were people who were retired or near retired. I get this same conversational sense where we’re going to have a theme, but the conversation is going to go any which way it is going to go. So it is lovely for me.
So, as your skills developed, what were some rewarding experiences during that time? As your skill set grew more and more, this is obviously as you are in the workforce more. You are training people, moving along, and going into competitions. How did this develop over time, too?
Marshall: Okay, what’s happening now is we have many farrier competitions. Did you realize that?
Jacobsen: I only found out about a month and a half ago.
Marshall: One of the leading competitions was in Calgary at the Calgary Stampede, where they used to hold the world championships. I competed in that quite a few times, and so forth, which was successful. I met many people from all over the world, and, after that, everybody, all the farriers from all over North America, all over the world, came together. There was this significant unity and a spread of knowledge that was unbelievable. And we had at one time 23 countries competing at Calgary. To exchange ideas, it was just fantastic. Everybody, lots of friends and so forth, and people started to get invited to go to different parts of the world and from then on, it was just like a giant spider’s web; it has just increased. It is just absolutely fantastic.
But going back to the basics of shoeing the horse, it has stayed the same since Roman times. All I’ve used is different steels and so forth. I went aluminum for the racehorses. I have even made titanium shoes, which weren’t necessary, but we did it for the heck of it. But, the standards and message might be different, not so much of a statement but transportation, that’ll be these big fancy trucks with everything you can imagine in there. But what goes on the foot is similar to when I was an apprentice. It is still the same. Going on the horseshoe and going on the foot hasn’t changed much at all.
Jacobsen: How do you differentiate between a skilled farrier and a less skilled farrier? I do not mean things like, ‘The shoe fits.’
Marshall: If it is a skilled farrier with experience, he’ll have the same clients for many years. They’ll shoe the horse. In five weeks, they’re asked to go back again, and so on and so forth. And some farriers have been going to these barns for over 20-30 years. That means that’s a skilled farrier, but the ones not asked to go back again, there’s a reason for it. You can lame a horse or make a horse unsound in no time at all with a fundamental mistake. Once you do that, you are done, especially if it is through ignorance or lack of experience. Is that okay?
Jacobsen: It helps. I hear these terms a lot. I haven’t quite figured out what they mean to different people in the industry: the word “lame” and the term “sound.” What makes a horse lame compared to a horse being unsound?
Marshall: Okay, it is the same as is. If you stick a stone in the bottom of your shoes, you will walk unevenly, won’t you? That’s a simple remedy. That can happen with a horse; a rock could stick in the bottom of its hooves, and the treatment is to take the stone out, but if your horse is shod improperly, that lameness can create a significant problem and give a long time, they owe it to the horse, and sometimes they have to be euthanized, and that’s the way it is. Inside the horse’s foot, there’s an incredible amount of anatomy going on in there, which are susceptible tissues. When you think about it, they have a tactile nose on the bottom of their foot, whereas we have them at the end of our fingertips, almost the same.
A horse can walk on something and feel the ground underneath it to say whether it is safe. Here’s an example: we used to shoe horse horses in England that were called shankers. Now, you probably have yet to hear of that. What these shankers did, they used to catch shrimps with a horse and cart, and the coaches have these massive wheels on them so they can get into the water, and the horses would walk up, so the water was just over the backs of the horse. Those horses obviously couldn’t see the bottom where their feet was, but they could feel it with their tactile nose and sometimes they’ll also stop and it would back up and turn, do another way and probably what it was, was quick sound in front. Now, how do these horses know that? They must have it through that tactile nose in the bottom of their feet, and they sensed it, ‘I’m not going through there,’ the driver would just let them go, and everything was fine. So that’s how sensitive the bottom of the horse’s foot is and how incredible a horse is. I’m not good with words. You probably guessed that already.
Jacobsen: But your examples are apparent.
Marshall: Okay, good.
Jacobsen: Now, one thing my farrier friend did mention was that you are crowned, let’s call it, World Champion five times for your skill in being a farrier. What are the specific kinds of qualifiers tested at these championships to be crowned World Champion?
Marshall: I was crowned five times World Champion by winning at Calgary Stampede.
Jacobsen: And what were the criteria tested for that?
Marshall: Oh, okay. Part of them was many different parts of the competition because it was a three-day deal. Sometimes we had to shoe draft horses. Another time we’d have to shoe light horses, riding horses. Another time we’d have to show what they call the roadster, which is a horse that used to pull carts on the road. There were three different, let’s say, levels there: the riding horse, the driving horse, and the draft horse. You must be skilled to be at a reasonable level with all those three. Luckily, I was trained by some of the best, so it worked out for me.
Jacobsen: Who did you look up to as you became a more skilled farrier?
Marshall: Oh, good point. Yeah, how can I say now? I was in the North of England with my dad, and then, as I said before, I did go down to the South of England for quite a while. Still, I met some exciting farriers when I was starting to compete. I went to this one competition. I said to my dad what the heck are we doing, never competed before. He said, “Just do what you do at home.” I said, “Okay,” so I did what I did at home [Laughing]. There were three divisions in this. There was the open division, which was obviously that quality people. And then there was a prize for the under the 30s and an award for the under 26s, and I’m only 24, so I could get a mention in the under 26s.
Anyway, I just did what my dad told me. I just did the job and did the horse and so forth, and they came to give out the prizes, and they said the first one was a guy called Tom Allison, a respected farrier. Anyway, the next one was RH Marshall. I thought, ‘Who the heck is that?’ So I’m looking around when somebody says, “That’s you, you silly bugger” [Laughing].
There I was a second, meaning I must have won all the others underneath it. It was one heck of a day. That’s where I met this Tom Allison. He said, “Where did you get training?” I said, “My dad just gave me the basics.” He said, “You’ve got a pretty good basic, mate.” [Laughing] We became excellent friends after that. We used to visit and work with him, which slightly refined me. He’d show me all sorts of different things. Again, that’s what the farrier industry is like. You lock on to somebody with these talents; if you are fortunate enough to go with them, that’s pretty good. So that’s how it started, and it was a tremendous friendship.
Jacobsen: Have you ever had people come up looking up to you in a similar manner?
Marshall: Oh yes, I used to do seminars and so forth. They’d come up from all over the place. Of course, I went to Australia eight times for workshops, so it gave me a chance to try to travel and so forth. But like I said – I know I’m repeating myself, but it is one hell of a career. My wife and I still talk about it because I was doing so many seminars worldwide. At one time, I ended up with flight miles for us both to go first class to Australia. And that takes much collecting. And yes, we stopped off in Fiji on the way to Australia. Then next time, we stopped somewhere else, in Hawaii. It is just fantastic.
Jacobsen: When you are training newer farriers, what have been some of the essential skills and methods that you try to get across to them: things to look for, things to do right, not wrong?
Marshall: First of all, what I try and pass on to them is that when you are showing somebody else’s horse, that horse is so vital to them and important to them, you have got to do your utmost to look after it because if you do not, there’s going to be some fault in there somewhere and you will not be asked to go back and so forth. That’s pretty straightforward, but they must also realize that much safety is involved. If you put a shoe on that is too slippery, you could cause some serious injury to somebody or even kill them. Some people have been killed because they’ve had a horse go into a deep hole or something. A deep hole is not much different than losing a shoe and slipping. So that’s your responsibility as a farrier; you’ve got to consider that every time you shoe a horse. You’ve got to put the appropriate amount of shoe on with the tracks it requires without putting too much stress on it.
In other words, let me simplify that, if you put a shoe on that replicates the primary growth of a regular foot, you are not far off. But if you start to put on extensions, which some people do because they’ve got this weird idea about things, or they’ll put something extra wide, so it is supposed to straighten the legs which they do not need straightening because that’s how God put them. So, quite often, you get these people that want to show that they’ve got these silly skills that could try and straighten legs out and so fort, but it doesn’t work. You have to keep the horse sound. Does that make sense?
Jacobsen: Yes.
Marshall: Okay.
Jacobsen: Are the punishments more institutional for people who do lousy ferrying? So they get punished by some organization or more social in that people will stop hiring them?
Marshall: Oh yes, okay. There is a body of the Farriers Association that could give them a bit of warning, but as far as taking them to court and things like that, that doesn’t happen, which sometimes is unfortunate. But that’s just how it is. If you are doing something wrong, you better correct it; otherwise, you will lose your clients. That’s just how it is. If you do something wrong, you must move or change your location sooner or later. And then that levels everything out like in other trades; you keep building houses that keep falling. You aren’t going to do too many, are you? [Laughing]
And you know something? Horses are precious now. I mean, the value is unbelievable. It is 100,000 dollars for a horse now with nothing, just a cheap one. So, every time you get onto those horses, you are dealing with a lot of money. These are their buddies. You have to look after them.
Jacobsen: So, for individuals entering the industry, what are your recommendations for longevity? How do they build up a company?
Marshall: First of all, if you are going to get into the industry, you need to work with somebody qualified and recognized. How’s that? So you must spend at least two years travelling with them, helping them, and getting as much knowledge as possible. And then usually the person looking after them, they’re more talented. The one you are working with or working for, they typically find some clients for you that you can branch out and start doing on your own and then it goes out from that. The good farriers allow the young lads or girls to work with them. Eventually, they’ll say, “Okay, you can tell this client and take that client,” it all works out quite well because what it is is just lots of horses around. Nobody’s struggling for horses these days. Does that make sense?
Jacobsen: Yes. I’ve noticed in some discussions with equestrians of different kinds of stripes that there is a potential issue in some sectors of Canada with two things: one is finding good farriers or a good farrier shortage, and then another is a good vet shortage. Is that accurate to you?
Marshall: Oh boy! Now, you are touching the subject. This is tough for me. It is like any trade, mate. I mean, there’s good and evil in this. There are sure vets in our area; I wouldn’t trust him with a bloody butcher knife, let alone a horse. I do not know how to go from that because when you work for the veterinarian, the farriers and the vets usually get together, and quite often, an excellent vet would turn around and say, “Look, I’m not sure what this is, it is in the foot, I recommend you call your farrier, and I’ll meet him, and we’ll take extra aid and work together and figure it out.” That’s the way to do it.
Unfortunately, like farriers or vets, they decide to do things on their own, and if they’re lucky, they might get some results, but quite often, they do not get good results. And eventually, it’ll work out, but sooner or later, the vet and the farrier must work together. I mean, I’ve got some of that. There are many farriers like that; they get on excellent with the vet, and the vet says, “No, call your farrier. I’ll meet him here,” or “Call the farrier, and if he needs me, call me, and I’ll meet him with my X-rays.” That’s an excellent situation to react to.
Jacobsen: Regarding the industry of farriering in Canada at the moment, what are some of the positives, and what are some of the negatives that you note?
Marshall: It is positive; the whole industry worldwide is buoyant. With all our connections with different farriers from all over the world exchanging ideas, it is a positive.
Jacobsen: What core ideas are exchanged between farriers to improve the industry?
Marshall: Yeah, like I said before, because of the modern technologies and so forth, the ideas that are coming from different countries, it is just unbelievable. For instance, I mean the farrier competitions; I mentioned this before: 23 countries competed at Calgary the last time I competed. So that gives you an idea that the industry’s gone worldwide. So it is incredible. Does that help?
Jacobsen: It does help. I’ve heard similar things from the show jumping world, where, in the 70s, you had several countries competing, but now it is upwards of 80 or more countries competing. So, it has expanded tremendously.
Marshall: Yeah, and a tremendous amount of money involved as well.
Jacobsen: Yes, that’s right. [Laughing] Do you think the costs of horses now are a barrier for some people to compete at the highest level of some of these sports disciplines? Is the cost of a horse, purchasing price, a barrier to many taking part in the highest levels of these sports disciplines: dressage, show jumping, horse racing, and so on? As you mentioned earlier, a horse costs around 100,000 dollars in most places as a starting price. This wasn’t the case before; it was cheaper. Does this naturally prevent entry into some sports?
Marshall: It does, yes, because, like I said, it is a costly sport to get in. When I told 100,000 dollars for a horse, that was cheap; that’s the starting point. To other examples of how extraordinary this profession can be, let me tell you a story about a good friend who’s an excellent farrier. He’s well known, a good rider and horseman, and extremely wealthy. He turned into a multi-millionaire, but he was asked to go to Saudi Arabia to shoe a horse from England anyway. Now, can you imagine the cost of that? That is bizarre. And he told me himself. He says, “Bob, I go there on holiday twice a year. I do not need to go back there. And this is what I told him.” He said, “I go there on holiday; I do not want to go and shoe a horse.” And they just said, “Look, Grant, we’ve had two farriers looking at this horse; he’s expensive. What will it cost you to get out here and help us?” And he just straight off said, “20,000 Euro,” They said, “Book a ticket.”
Jacobsen: Holy hell.
Marshall: Yeah. So he flew over there. This is the best part; being a good horseman and a rider, he looked at it. The two farriers were there that had shod the horse. Grant told me it was exceptionally well fed. There was nothing to do with the shoeing; he went up to the horse’s shoulders, moved it towards the neck, pinched it, and cowered down. He said, “That’s your problem. You need an equine chiropractor; you do not need a farrier.” So he said, “I got my cheque and returned home.” [Laughing]
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Marshall: That’s just some of the stories that are bizarre in this profession, it is. I mean, the money is just bloody unbelievable.
Jacobsen: What are some of the bizarre stories in your professional history?
Marshall: My bizarre stories? How much time have we got? [Laughing]
Jacobsen: I have all day. I have the day off.
Marshall: It is hard to say. At least some of them are; I mean, as I said before, my primary training was from my dad. I owe so much damn everything to him. He gave me the solid basics. That’s all I started with. It came to a situation where I was asked to do some demonstration. I told you this before, in Washington State. It went from there. The following way, I flew all over the United States, then to Australia, and it just continued. After a while, I didn’t have time to shoe any horses, so I kept a few of my clients, but I was flying around the rest of the time. So, it has been an incredible career in that respect. Does that answer any questions, or am I repeating myself?
Jacobsen: No, not at all. What would you consider your most expensive shoeing experience where you charge the most money?
Marshall: I do not think I’ve been to that stage. `I do not think I’ve charged a lot. Many years ago, I was asked to do a horse in Vancouver, and I said I didn’t know how much I could trust because it was a long way to go from where I lived, and they just said we’d pay you by the hour and I said well okay, it is a 100 dollars an hour and that’s what they did. I forget the total, but it was a good wage for me. That’s the most I ever did. Some of these other guys now here, they shoe three horses in a day. They’re walking away with 1500 dollars. I used to shoe six horses a day on average, so you can imagine how much money is involved in the farriers down in these areas where the horses are like multi-million dollars that everybody’s used to spending lots of money, but they’re just used to it. I do not know whether they’ve been conned into it or not, but they’re just used to it [Laughing].
Jacobsen: How do farriers make their prices? What sets the industry standard?
Marshall: Well, it is just wide open. It is a wide-open market, so it is hard to answer that question. What you do, you have to look at the situation where you are asked to go. You see what the quality of the horses are, you ask what the usual prices are, and if the prices are, say, 400 a set, but asked you to go down there because they wanted something a little bit better. So, now, you can charge 500 a group, for want of a number. And that’s the way it happens, and quite often, some of those people; like I said, they’re just willing to pay. But you better be on the ball if you are going to do that. Does that answer the question?
Jacobsen: Yeah.
Marshall: Okay, You seemed hesitant there when you said yes.
Jacobsen: [Laughing] I’m also thinking about another question to ask based on the response because I’ve been doing interviews for so long. I like to do improvisatory interviews more than scripted. I go more naturally based on the given answers.
Marshall: Oh, okay.
Jacobsen: Do you find that there’s a common industry standard for farriers themselves, or has there yet to be a standard set in the same sense of the cost? It is just wide open.
Marshall: Again, I need help understanding that question. Simplify it for me.
Jacobsen: Sure. Is a minimum standard set for farriers in Canada?
Marshall: In what respect? In respect of what we charge or the quality of the work?
Jacobsen: l would say the quality of the work because we just talked about cost.
Marshall: The quality of the work within British Columbia is basically what you asked; you can go to the ranching industry and still shoe your horses there for 150 dollars a set, which is nothing. You go another 50 miles in one direction, and you’d be paying 300 dollars. It comes down to what the horse is doing. You will only get paid a little if it is a ranch horse. And if horses were shod like ranch horses every day worldwide, the equine system would be much better because they do a good job. When you think about a horse that gallops around all day chasing cows for four or five hours a day, probably 30 miles a day, they’ve got to have some decent shoes on them, which they do. But if you took that same horse out of the show jumping industry and tried to ride it down for four or five hours over the hills, it’d probably break down. Do you understand me? It wouldn’t be able to handle it. So it comes down to many of the basics, its conditioning and what other conditions to do with a job there and chasing cattle is pretty tough.
Jacobsen: How often does a ranch horse need hoof care done?
Marshall: Just like any other really, every four to five weeks because what happens you see is the shoes might not wear out, but the foot grows like our fingernails, so they get long. If they’re not trimmed back, it puts a lot of tension on the tendons and the ligaments of the leg and therefore can cause serious problems. So they have to be done in the summertime between every four and a half to five weeks. In the wintertime, the growth does slow down slightly, so you can extend it another couple of weeks sometimes.
Jacobsen: What are the main problems with a horse’s hoof? Like, you are coming to this as a professional. You see a hoof. What are the issues?
Marshall: There are various problems. First, the main concern would be breeding the horse and whether the feet on the front end…. Usually, you do not get many back-end problems with a foot. Still, on the front end, we can get what is called a club foot, which means that one foot is smaller and more upright than the other. That’s from the leg basically. Mother nature is trying to provide natural treatment for the horse. In other words, you’ve got one leg shorter than the other; the farrier tries to give that by growing one foot a little bit longer to match them all up. And often, people try to intervene with that too much and create more of a problem. Does that answer your question?
Jacobsen: Yes, it does.
Marshall: Okay. Now, compared to when I was an apprentice with my dad, I probably only saw one or two horses with odd feet. Rarely, we saw a club foot. Now, something happened with the industry, whatever it was. I do not know, but, now, it is rare that you find a horse with two feet the same on the front of the horse. It is just gone that bad. There are so many odd feet now; it is unbelievable. It is not all done through the farrier industry. There are systems that do poor breeding, etc. That’s my opinion.
Jacobsen: Which country does the breeding the best?
Marshall: Boy! You put me on the spot now. It is not so much who does the best breeding, but what happens when the foal is born. If it can be looked after as it should be, it should have plenty of room to roam and gallop around on fields. And what we used to do in Britain; if a foal in the thoroughbred industry or the show jumping industry were born, they would send it over to Ireland, where it could be turned out for about a year and a half. Where it can run on some good natural green grass and that would do the job. They’d come back after a year and a half, so now they’re two-year-olds, and they can start working them slowly, but it helps to progress, to get some substance underneath them or within them. Ireland is an incredible place. What it is, they say that something in the grass that makes them stronger. I do not know, but I know they still do that in Englan. They’ll send horses over to Ireland for the air or something.
Jacobsen: What are other issues other than the mismatch of the hoofs caused by the farriers, though, this time?
Marshall: I would say probably the most common fault is that the hoses are shod way too heavy. The shoes are too heavy. They’re too long. They’re just generally way too big. They do not fit the horse. If you trim the foot down, you should replace that piece of foot that you trimmed off with a bit of steel with the exact dimensions all the way around. In other words, if you trim 3/8th of an inch off and then put 3/8th of an inch back with the shoe, people do not do that. They’ll take the 3/8th of an inch off and then put half an inch on and much broader. For instance, measurements instead of taking something 5/8th by 3/8th, they’ll put one inch by half, which is heavier and way too much for the horse to burden. Does that make sense?
Jacobsen: Yeah, I think so.
Marshall: Yeah. So, I’m repeating myself, but it is a matter of whatever you take off, replace it with steel. That’s it, as close as you can. This has worked for about 64 years. So I’m not going to change now [Laughing].
Jacobsen: Are there any things that when you look at a horse’s hoof, it is so bad you cannot do anything with it? Are there any conditions like that?
Marshall: Yeah. You often get what they call seedy toe, a fungus that goes in between the bone of the foot, and the bone of the foot is attached to the wall by a lamina. And what it does is it affects the laminae, and the whole part between the bones on the horse’s division, the outside surface, becomes separate, and there’s a significant big gap in there. That often has to be removed because it cannot survive without oxygen.
But that outside wall has got to be removed before it gets any worse. That can cause significant problems, starting with just a tiny opening in the structures between the wall and the coffin bone and the bone inside. They are just there. It can go fast. They thrive with no oxygen so that whole wall has to be removed and start the new growth again. It is incredible how fast it can happen.
Jacobsen: How does the industry in Canada compare to the American or Western European industries for farriers?
Marshall: I would say, in general, the better quality of farriers is still in Britain, in the British Isles. You can rarely go anywhere in Britain. You can have a horse in the north of England and send it down to the south of England. You can guarantee that it’ll be shod by someone else, and we will do it identically to how you’ve done it. In Canada, that’s not the case. In the United States, this is not the case; they will change things in any way they can to make more money. I hate to say that, but it is true. The more gadgets you put on, the more you can charge; unfortunately, that’s a sad thing. I’m repeating myself because the farriers make a good living anyway. They do not need to do all that stuff, putting bizarre things on. And when you think about it, when they spend that much time and that much money buying all these crazy weird things for the feet, by the time they put them on, they’re not making that much money even if they charge 500 dollars a set because it is cost them so much for all the gadgets. But if you stick to the same old basics and shoe them appropriately, the horses go better, and everybody’s happy.
I know I’m repeating it, but the farriers’ responsibility is to keep the horse sound so it can be ridden in most terrains without causing injury to itself by tripping or slipping because that can create a problem for the rider. They can get seriously hurt. You may have heard of this place, but there is a massive place in Calgary for children. It is probably one of the biggest in the world. They were videotaping it. These horses coming up to a jump. Somehow, when they turned, it twisted. It was a challenging course, and then he started picturing all these shoes coming off the horse and to think that about ten different riders coming up to the jump and then you could see that she was rolling off them. They’re moving away because they were shod with too much shoe. It is like us. We have running shoes to go running in, and you have walking shoes to walk in, and you have dancing shoes to dance in. So you do not go running in the marathon with dancing shoes [Laughing].
It is so simple. It’s ridiculous that people have to start changing things and making it difficult. Like I said, your responsibility is for that rider. They can get seriously hurt. You only need one of the horses to slide, and you can get some significant problems. I might drift off the subject sometimes, but I start thinking of situations, and I drift a bit, so you have to put up with me [Laughing].
Marshall: How is it shoeing a horse using aluminum versus steel?
Marshall: It is lighter. What happens is that an excellent example of this is the horse that my dad used to shoe, that famous one called Red Rum. Now, Red Rum was stabled in our tiny hometown. It raced in Liverpool, which was 20 miles away, a renowned race, gruelling. But anyway, when my dad shod Red Rum, they take the shoes off and put the aluminum ones on; they’re the same size but lighter and make a difference for approximately a day. Then, after that, everything comes back, and the aluminum shoes feel the same as the steel ones for up to 24 hours, but if you are lucky enough, like my dad and the horse, it was only an hour away from the racecourse. So within two or three hours, he was riding with feeling good. It is like you; when you take your shoes off and put a pair of running shoes on, you bounce around a little, don’t you? You feel good. Well, that’s exactly what the horse feels like, but after a while, you walk around in those running shoes for a time, and then they return to feeling like ordinary shoes. And we captured that quality within the hour of them being put on. Does that make sense?
And this is tremendous, I got to say. My dad inspired me when he got to shoe that horse; that was his pride and joy. One of the most prominent people was chasing racers in the world. They’ve run in it five times. And incidentally, out of all the horses that run in it, only seven horses ever run in it five times. The rest they couldn’t run in after the first time. They were tired, worn out, or broken down, and ran in it five times. They buried him at the racecourse and in the finishing post, going past the finishing post.
He was 32 when they put him down, which is another incredible thing. So again, I’m going back to what it is like to be a farrier and to be involved with a horse like that is unbelievable. I was involved with a horse that was in Canada. It jumped the Canadian record in Toronto. It jumped several at the Royal Winter Fair, and that was my pride and joy, and it is so neat to be involved with something like that.
Jacobsen: This is helpful for me to get a side perspective. The primary relationships a farrier will have between the vet and the owner in the professional sphere. What are other secondary relationships farriers have, if any, while working?
Marshall: Secondary relationships with the horse owner?
Jacobsen: When they’re working with the horse when it is first born and onwards, you noted they work with the vet and the owner. Are there any other industries that do not work with them as much but still work with them to ensure things are running smoothly?
Marshall: Oh yes, there probably are some, but those are the three main ones: the veterinarian, the owner, and the farrier. And then the others are only looked after temporarily if they go to a show; they may have a different vet there, but it is only temporary. It is only for that show. Then they come back to the original stable and back to the same people concerned. Same with the farriers; they go to Spruce Meadows in Toronto. They’ll have another farrier shoeing it, but hopefully, if there’s any problem with that horse, they will detect it straight away and then call the farrier that originally shod it to ask why that was done and then go from there, have a professional explanation to each other. But that’s a bit about the owner is the owner. So, the farriers and the veterinarians do vary in other places. As you said, you can’t expect to follow them down to Florida, but telephone communications.
Jacobsen: When a horse is new versus when a horse is retired or old, what are the different things that need to be managed regarding the care of the hoof?
Marshall: Not a lot because they’re doing only some strenuous work once it retires. It is a matter of whether the horse can and whether he’s got the foot that can handle it, which many of them had at that time. It is to take the shoes off, have him barefoot, and let him enjoy his retirement. That’s the best thing. But I have to tell you this: what can happen, and again, it is communication. I had to look at a horse and screw its metals. This stallion was worth a lot of money, but he had a club fhoof which was steeper than the other. One steeper than the other one and, of course, if he was being ridden and jumped and so forth, you had to shoe accordingly. But when he retired, they told me, “Can you do anything with that hoof to make it look more normal?” I said I could, but I told them you can’t jump him. “Oh no, we’re not going to jump because he’s retired.” They said. I said, “Okay, this is against my beliefs, but I will do it, and I’ll be as careful as I can,” which I did. Guess what they did?
Jacobsen: Oh no.
Marshall: They didn’t jump him with the rider on the back, but when people came to buy some of his offspring; they would jump him over a giant fence and ride it. I said, “You idiots,” and he broke down, didn’t he? Yeah. So when they came to me. I said, “We need a good discussion here.”
I said, “You told me you were not going to jump this horse.” She said, “There was no rider on his back.” I said, “Have you got an intelligence problem here?” I lost it with them. I did. I said, “Do not you ever ask me to do that again.” And then sooner or later, I just said, “Look, I do not need to go public with you people.” I left the place. And it is a well-renowned place, Spruce Meadows. I just said, “No, I do not need this.” That’s why I’m a man of principle. It helps to be like that, too.
Jacobsen: I’m thinking of other things to ask you. That’s an important question. In your many decades in the industry, what are the values of the farrier community in Canada? Like to the point you mentioned where you have to be a person of principle, you have to step down and say, “I won’t stand for both lying and mistreating a horse.”
Marshall: Yeah, this is a concern throughout many industries within the horse. Quite often, a farrier is asked to do something that he knows full well is not correct for the horse, but it is obliging the owner or the trainer, usually the trainer. The owner won’t do anything that would hurt the horse, but the trainer sometimes want to push it that little bit more and a good owner would say, “No, I want to talk to my farrier” And another owner might say, “Okay. Whatever the trainer said, do it,” and consequently then you have a problem. Who gets the blame for it in there? The farrier. So, it can be unrealistic; in the farrier industry, it can be done with the owners and the veterinarians. So many veterinarians I’ve worked with have been incredible.
Here’s another example. I was at Spruce Meadows again. There was a German horse there. HHe was lame. And the way that the Germans shod this horse was unbelievably wrong, and I was asked to go there and give my opinion. So I gave it. The owner said, “I do not believe what you are saying.” They just said to step aside. I said gladly, “You carry on, but if you keep doing this with this horse, I will guarantee he’ll be finished within a year.” I looked into it a year later, and he was finished. What they did, they used to wedge his shoes off, make the heels higher than the toe was, and change the angle. It puts pressure on the heel of the foot, which is softer than the steel, and crushes them. If you can imagine having no shoes on and somebody putting in a steel wedge under your heel on one foot and walking around with that, what happens to the bottom of your foot? It just gets displaced. Steel won’t move.
I have been successful because I’m so simple. Well, not simple, but simple marketing [Laughing]. As I said, some of the questions you are asking are difficult to answer because I have yet to have any of those problems you asked, but I’ve seen them. I’m trying to answer the best I can for you.
Jacobsen: Following on the point about horse treatment, most of my experiences with people in the show jumping industry, mainly the sports side, riders and trainers and many people; if they’re working with me as stablehands, for instance, they will talk about the horse racing world as probably the worst in the treatment of horses compared to other industries in equestrianism.
Marshall: Yeah, I can see; the horse industry, as far as the racing industry is concerned, is poor in North America. The surface, first of all, of the race is usually sand or gravel or something like that, and it is not natural for a horse to gallop at high speeds through that environment. They should be run on grass, which is entirely natural. Whereas you compare it with Britain, a lot of the race courses, there is still grass. So, it is a natural thing for the horse to go on. A horse can sink into the ground, but when it comes out of the bed, it has enough traction to keep it going forward, whereas in the gravel and the sand, it goes in too much, and sometimes it sticks in the bottom of the foot makes the foot heavier one than the other one. Consequently, they could run better. That’s why we have a lot of problems in the industry in North America in the racing industry.
Now, they started doing something in the show-jumping industry. They came up with fantastic ideas about this false footing: it looks like snow or white Styrofoam, pieces of white Styrofoam. I do not know what it was, but it caused many problems. I’d retired by then, so what the issues were. They’ve taken it off now, which created a lot of lameness. And the other thing, too, we were talking about what the owners do regarding safety for the horse about soundness. Now, what they’re doing, they’re starting to inject the hocks on a perfectly sound horse to prevent it from having a particular problem in the hind leg.
Now, years ago, those problems were never there. So I asked, “Why is it so necessary now?” What it was, it comes back to what I said before; the training is much too fast on run surfaces, so now they start interfering with injections. In other words, instead of finding out what the problem was in the first place and not doing it anymore, they stick an injection in it so it can’t feel anything. Excellent, these injections!
Jacobsen: Some other footing that I’ve seen has been silica rings. It is a different footing than you might see in the wet dirt or the gravel you are talking about. Have you looked into any of that or heard about any of that, the silica footing?
Marshall: I’m unfamiliar with that, so I can’t comment. I do not know. Whatever it was, it needed to be fixed. You cannot beat the natural surface, which is grass. If they can get like grass, it would be great, but you can’t copy grass because it is not just the grass; it is the roots underneath, right? Certain grasses have a shallow heart, which would be no good. Certain grasses have an extended basis, allowing the horse to go into it and come out of it quickly because it has some specific traction. This is what they have so far had in Britain because they do not race on artificial surfaces; they run on grass. So, somebody over here will get their head out of their ass.
Jacobsen: [Laughing] Which facilities do you think are doing an excellent job conducting their competition grounds and their treatment of the foot care of the horse in terms of stuff like that?
Marshall: They’re all doing the same thing. As I said, Spruce Meadows is one of the biggest in the world, but they only have one grass area. No, I’m telling a lie. No, they do not. The main Grand Prix area is grass, so they’ve done an excellent job of that. But they do other sites for the lower standard horse; it is just underneath the top level, and they’re in a gravelly sand thing. But the main area at Spruce Meadows now is grass. That’s an incredible place to be, and it is one of the biggest in the world.
Jacobsen: What kind of grass are they using?
Marshall: I’m still determining what kind of grass it is, but I know it has a pretty good root. So, if they get long and deep into the grass, that helps. If it is one that skirts off the top, that would be no good. So, whatever the grass is, I do not know the names of the grasses, but it has a pretty good root to it. The way they look after these grass fields is just incredible. They do a tremendous job with it. Have you ever been to Spruce Meadows?
Jacobsen: I have not; I would like to do a tour at some point.
Marshall: Where are you based?
Jacobsen: I’m based in Langley, British Columbia. People reading this should know Canada is so big that people in the same provinces do not even know where each other is.
Marshall: Yeah. I’m about 10 miles West of Hope.
Jacobsen: Oh wow, far.
Marshall: One time in Ireland, they had two racehorses, and they were completely equal, and they were shod precisely the same way, but they were shod with steel. Somebody came along and said, “Look, we want to try something.” This is when they first started using aluminum shoes. So they changed the boots on one horse to aluminum and left the other to steel. They raced them again for three days in a row. Every time they ran it, the one with aluminum finished first and was less tired. And they said, “Okay, they should be aluminum.” And that’s where it all started for two horses in Ireland. Interesting, that.
Jacobsen: Yeah. Where do you think the industry will be going into the future? What else could be developed or enhanced?
Marshall: Where is it going to go in the future?
Jacobsen: Yeah, if it hasn’t changed in so long, I couldn’t see it necessarily having any rapid changes, but any industry can make adaptations.
Marshall: Going back to that question before, why do they have to start injecting the hind end on a horse when there’s nothing wrong with it? That’s going in the wrong direction as far as I’m concerned, and if it is adequately conditioned like it used to be years ago, they wouldn’t need to do that. But now it is the time factor; everybody’s in a hurry to get things done super quick, and some things weren’t meant to be done quickly. Sometimes, they have to be developed in time, which is one thing that gets me when they start injecting sound horses in the back end of the hocks to prevent them from going lame. If they conditioned them, they probably wouldn’t go lame in the first place. That’s old-fashioned, but that’s how the industry’s going; it is coming down to sticking more needles in these horses.
They do not get needles when they’re out; the ranch horses do not, and they go up around all day. It always goes back to those ranch horses; they’re good, solid, and healthy as can be, and what? They enjoy what they’re doing. And if you look at a horse and some of these show jumping facilities and walk around, many horses are uncomfortable. You see them in the soil, and they’re going from one leg to another, one leg to another, and they’re not pleased. It comes down to what I said before: good solid conditioning. It is like our feet; if they’re not conditioned, they’re going in a 26-mile race. You better have some conditioning on you because it won’t take 20 miles before you start fatiguing. So you’ve got to be prepared for it. And that’s the same with the horse industry: preparation. And a horse is meant to look ahead and stretch out.
An example of this would be, in Britain again, they have the resources to get conditioned. Well, they do not chase around a little racetrack on the sand like they do over here; they go out in the fields and gallop for miles across up and down hills. That’s all on grass. That’s how they do it over there; consequently, when the British horses run, they hold more records than any other country. The races are more gruelling, but the horses stand up to it because they have been appropriately conditioned on the correct surface: grass. And not only that, when you are riding a horse because I rode horses for a long time when you are riding a horse, a horse wants to look ahead. I mean, they look way, way ahead. They have incredible vision. When they can see ahead and see it safely, you can feel them stretching out underneath you, and they love it; they enjoy it. They know that that surface is good. And I told you before about the shankers/shankars in England, didn’t I?
Jacobsen: You mentioned the word shankers/shankars before. I do not recall this story off the top.
Marshall: Yeah, what it was, it was that their horses used to go into the tide to catch shrimps and so forth and then walked their water up to the withers in the grass and then back, but sometimes they would stop. Now, they can’t see anything, but only those feet and those tactile knows. They knew that if they went ahead, it would be quicksand. So, the driver or the person in charge just let him go, and they turn around and get out of there. So, like I said, the horse has incredible resources and sensitivity to different situations.
Here’s another example. I was riding my horse one day, and I’ve been over these railroad tracks many times to get to the river. And this time, he stopped, and there was no bloody way; he said, ‘Nope, I’m not going,’ I tried and tried. Nope. Anyway, I decided to walk about the other way and about five minutes later a train went fast. Now, how did he know? It must have been the vibrations that he felt, but how did he know a bloody train would come? He saved my life [Laughing]. He was a horse that only had one eye. He had an injury in his eye. Guess what his name was? I hope I’ve been helpful, mate.
Jacobsen: Yeah. There’s one other question I would have, which would be about the health of the farriers themselves. What health concerns should farriers be aware of in their careers?
Marshall: Okay, that’s a good question. First, most of the problems you get are farriers with back issues. Now, sometimes, it is related to the size of the person. I’m short, so everybody said, “You are okay; you are just short.” I said, “No, I’ve nothing to do with it.” Whether you were shoeing 100 years ago or 50 years ago to now, I wasn’t greedy. You’ve only got so many horses in here before you start to get tired, and on average, five horses a day was a good living, and you could stay pretty healthy. But no, some of these people decide that they’re going to shoe seven or eight or nine horses a day and, consequently, their health fatigues. And by the time they’re 60-70 years old, they’re disabled; they can’t stand up. And that’s the way it is.
It was like the racing industry in England. They’d start working on miles, and they never stopped until they’d finished all the horses, and it was just too much. You are back and can only stand so much, right? A lot of those racing people in England who shod racehorses were finished. And I’m fortunate; I’m close to 80 years old, but I’m still reasonably fit and doing okay. I know many people are like me; they look great but are never greedy. Do you know what the thing is? It is good money, there’s no doubt about it. Shoeing horses is damn good money, so what the hell? But in 10 years, you will know the difference if you keep doing that.
Jacobsen: Are there any areas I haven’t covered that should be mentioned in the interview?
Marshall: I think we’ve covered most of it. If they’re getting into this job, make sure they work with somebody qualified because this is the thing: we do not have an apprenticeship system here. They go to school for 12, 14, or 15 weeks or something like that, and that’s it; they’re out. That’s not enough. What they should do is go to school, learn anatomy, learn all the different aspects of the trade, and then make arrangements to go and work with somebody else for at least another two years and get into the industry itself where they are working with horses in the fields and not just the ones that go into the farrier school.
Whereas, you’ve got lots of time in the farrier’s school; you’ve got all the different things, it is pretty nice and so forth, an excellent area to work and then when you get out into the real world it is not always like that. Sometimes, you can be out in the field, tie it to a fence or something like that when you start, and it is not all that wonderful sometimes. So it takes a while. The apprenticeship system in Britain I did five years with my dad and two years somewhere else; I basically did a seven-year apprenticeship. And here, we do not have apprenticeships. So, we’ve got to do the next best thing; you go to the farrier school for so many weeks, and then you get with another farrier and work with them for at least a couple of years, and then you will be okay. At one time, they just sent him out of the school, and that was it. A bit lost, and not only that, it is dangerous because in the farrier school, they do not usually get horses that are, let’s say, unpredictable; or when you get out in the actual field, it can be unpredictable. I’m lucky. I’ve not been kicked yet, but I’ve had two close calls. Did I tell you about that?
Jacobsen: No, how did those go?
Marshall: When I was 15, I worked with my dad, shoeing this big draft horse. He’d never been done before, and I was working on his backhand and turned around to get underneath him on the back on the feet, and I must have tickled his belly. He jumped up in the air, and when he came down, I turned and tried to stop the foot from going on the ground. I didn’t want to let go of it. But with a draft horse, that doesn’t work, and he flipped me. He came down with two hind feet, one on the other side of my head [Laughing]. He was white, absolutely white. Anyway, I got out. I stood there until I got out, and my dad came in. He says, “What’s the matter, lad?” I said, “He did me a jump from the head.” My dad said, “Be careful.” He did not know how lucky I was. [Laughing] I tell you, mate. It is unreal.
Jacobsen: All right. Well, Bob, thank you very much for your extensive time.
Marshall: Whenever you want to do it, mate. We’ll make it work. Thank you.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/10/15
*Interview conducted in early-to-mid-August, 2023.*
*Please see the footnotes, bibliography, and citations, after the publication.*
Abstract
Roslyn Mould is the Vice President of Humanists International (2023-). She was Secretary and Chair of the Young Humanists International African Working Group from 2014 to 2019 and a Board Member for Humanists International from 2019 to 2023. She was a member of the Humanist Association of Ghana since it was founded in 2012 and held several positions, including President of the group from 2015 to 2019. She is the Coordinator for the West African Humanist Network, an Advisory Board member of the FoRB Leadership Network (UK), a Board member for LGBT+ Rights Ghana, and President of Accra Atheists. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Linguistics and Modern Languages. Mould discusses: becoming the first African Vice President of Humanists International.
Keywords: Activist, Africa, Andrew Copson, Anne-France Ketalaer, Elizabeth O’Casey, FoRB Leadership Network, Ghana, Humanism, Humanists International, LGBT, Roslyn Mould, Vice President, West African Humanist Network, Young Humanists International.
Roslyn Mould: Making Humanist History
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Okay! We are back after a long time since the last interview in 2019, it’s only been a week and a bit since we met in Copenhagen, again. Hooray!
Roslyn Mould: Yes! Hooray!
Jacobsen: Something historic happened. You became, basically, the first African woman to be Vice President of Humanists International. Congratulations on being historic!
Mould: Thank you!!!
Jacobsen: So, what inspired you to run for Vice President?
Mould: Wow, a number of things. I have been contributing for many years since 2014 from my positions as President of an Organization in Ghana to positions in IHEYO, now Young Humanists International (YHI) and working with Anne-France as our VP when I moved from IHEYO to join the Board in 2019. We could have all of the intellectual discussions and she always brought that touch of wisdom to everything that we did. I really admired her for a long time. As her time was coming to an end, there were a number of people, including herself, who felt that after my years of service and with HI moving forward, I would make a very good replacement. I am quite abreast of what is going on in regions around the world and how the organization has been run and I am a huge believer in the work of the Board especially under the able leadership of our President, Andrew Copson. So I thought long and hard about it and initially, I was a bit hesitant because it took me resigning from my current position, which I just got elected for and eventually, I figured why not. I was confident and ready to take up the mantle and to serve and represent all Humanists around the world, every single member of HI which is why I decided to run for the Board in the first place. Of course, I take all of that with people supporting me and telling me, “You can do it!” I was really excited about doing this and also aiming to inspire and prove that there can also be a person of color, a Black African woman to take up the position and contribute a lot to this prestigious Organization. That was why I decided. It’s truly humbling and I am very honored!
Jacobsen: You have other positions in professional life as well. What is going on there?
Mould: For someone who didn’t set out to be an activist, It’s amazing how I got so many responsibilities but I always take it as a sign that I am well recognized for my work and people all over the world trust that I am very capable of handling things and contributing to the success of the Organization as my record has proven. I am a board member of Freedom of Religion and Belief Leadership Network (FoRBLN) UK. Basically, it is an organization that brings together legislators from around the world, Scholars and Academics, religious and non-religious leaders in the world. I am the only non-religious leader on the Advisory Board officially representing non-religious people around the world as a humanist. It is quite different from Humanists International but shares a common goal to promote FoRB. There are Scholars and Academics from International Ivy League Colleges and Parliamentarians from all around the world who form its membership and the Organization is also affiliated with international organizations such as the African Center for Parliamentary Affairs (ACEPA) in Ghana, The African Parliamentarians Association for Human Rights (AfriPAHR) and International Panel of Parliamentarians for Freedom of Religion or Belief (IPPFoRB). Also, I am a Board Member for LGBT+ Rights Ghana. It is the biggest and most active LGBT organization in Ghana. I am the only ally member and the only ally board member for a Queer organization in Ghana. I really respect that position as well because to be recognized and selected to be part of the leadership of an LGBT organization as an ally is a big deal. It shows how much trust they have in me. It shows they acknowledge how much work I have done for the LGBTQ+ community in Ghana and around the world. It shows that they really respect and treasure my input and commitment to bringing gay rights and freedoms to Ghana especially in a highly homophobic society at a time when there is an anti-gay bill being considered for legislation in our Parliament which threatens to jail LGBT+ people including Allies for up to 10 years. Also, I have been a Coordinator for the West African Humanist Network (WAHN) for a few years now. Basically, It is an official organization that has been set up to increase humanist activity in West Africa. Because, at the moment, we only have Ghana, Nigeria and Liberia being the only active humanist organizations and they are all English-speaking countries. It has been my cause, my goal, to increase humanist activity in the region, seek out those especially in the Francophone countries, to overcome language differences and to create a community for us to interact, but also to be there for each other and to feel that we are not alone, that there are other West African humanists like ourselves. Also, I am President of Accra Atheists, which is a very new group. It started as a Facebook page years ago by another Ghanaian who is now based in the US. Some of us have realized humanist activity has gone down since I left my presidency at the Humanist Association of Ghana. There is a vacuum there again and we need to fill that gap where people feel safe to be with other non-religious people and to discuss issues of religion and belief, especially for atheists – to make atheism known and to put Humanism back on the map again in Ghana. I did it for HAG and I am confident that I can do it again. Most of these appointments I’ve had since 2019. It’s a lot of work with all these positions but I love volunteering and I’m happy to do my part.
Jacobsen: As Vice President of Humanists International, which is significant, what are your aims for this term?
Mould: Basically, it is to support the position of the President of the Board, but also to support the work of Humanists International in its works. There are basic goals or a basic description of the role. However, it is up to you, as the person, to tell it the way you want to – to abide by the rules of that role, but also to add something to it. I definitely have thought about certain things to raise the bar higher. I would like to give a lot to membership engagement. I see that, apart from the few of us that are privileged enough to attend this conference once in a while; there is this gap unless you become friends with people from around the world, it’s difficult to become part of the community. Sometimes, people don’t realize that regardless of our job, location, our economic class or our cultural differences, we are very, very similar especially as Humanists. I want to be the one to bridge that gap and work together with the President and my fellow board members as well as the CEO, Gary McLelland to see how we can do this. I do believe that once we go working beside the membership work of Javan Poblador to develop interesting, exciting, creative, educational and fun programs, that would make all of us a part of it. You won’t have to sit home and wait for something on social media or email to show that you are part of an international community. I am willing to brainstorm and gather a lot of ideas. Also, advocacy, working with Advocacy officer Elizabeth O’Casey. What she has been doing for years has been impressive and I want to see what more we can do as Members. Definitely for those outside of Europe, so that we can better understand actual regions, for example, with Africa, we have an African human rights council affiliated with the United Nations. Elizabeth has been doing this for us even though she is not an African and I know she is keen to train some of us to represent ourselves and make our voices known on the continent. I started working with her on organizing training programs just before the pandemic hit so I think during my tenure, I will see how we can make this happen. We will see how we can make it so humanists in Asia, South America, Europe, Australia, New Zealand, USA, Canada, everywhere, can represent themselves, to see that we all have individual issues and that we can speak for ourselves. Other than that, I realize that the member organizations and the Board have a bit of a gap. Being a sociable person [Laughing] and someone who is approachable, I am hoping to bridge that gap as well. I do not want to make it that the Board is something out of reach. There are more things coming up. With these five organizations and starting a new day job, it won’t be easy but I should be able to make it so that someday, the next VP can build on that as well. One more thing is, since we have certain positions on the board not just for Europe but other parts of the world, I have a passion to groom and prepare the next generation of Board members to utilize their skills and continue to build on over 70 remarkable years of work of the Organization.
Jacobsen: Ros, thank you for your great work and the time.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/10/08
*Interview conducted December 22, 2022.*
*Please see the footnotes, bibliography, and citations, after the publication.*
Abstract
Beth Underhill’s biographic sketch states: “Beth Underhill’s International Show Jumping career places her today as an impressive veteran of Pan American, Olympic and World Equestrian Games. Beth is one of Canada’s top coaches for junior/amateur riders through to Grand Prix athletes. Beth’s successful career and the knowledge she has gained allows her to guide, train and mentor both horse and rider from junior to world class competition level. Beth has a wealth of experience to share with students; as the Leading Woman Rider in the World in 1995, also the first woman to win the Canadian World Cup League as well as representing Canada in the Olympics and many Nations Cup Competitions across the world: Italy, Spain, Luxemberg, Germany, Equador, USA, Holland. Today Beth is still competing at the highest level and is a great asset to any rider who is looking for coaching from an extremely passionate equestrian. Beth is also successful in training riders and horses in the Hunter and Equitation divisions, guiding one of her students to win the CET Medal Finals at the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair. Beth was also the leading trainer of the Ultimate Hunter Challenge and has twice been named Coach of the Year in Canada. Beth has acted as Chef d’Equipe for the North American Young Riders Team and oversaw the National Talent ID Program. Beth identifies up and coming talent for Canada’s future team riders. She is also a member of the High Performance Committee that selects our team riders for international and major games competitions. Canadian Grand Prix riders have elected Beth as their Grand Prix rider representative to the Jump Canada Board for the past 8 years as well as the FEI Competitions Approval Committee representing Canada. In October 2015 Beth was appointed Jump Canada’s Young Rider Development Program Advisor, a position she held until 2019. During Beths tenure with the team, Canada won an unprecedented number of medals. Including in 2017 when the Canadian Senior Young Riders team swept the podium individually, a feat that had never been done before.” Underhill discusses: longevity; Denmark; and emotional difficulties.
Keywords: Beth Underhill, Beth Underhill Stables, Erynn Ballard, equestrianism, Europe, Nations Cup, North America, Olympics, Show Jumping.
The Greenhorn Chronicles 50: Conversation with Beth Underhill on Horses and Tragedy (3)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: What countries do you think are doing the best right now? What factors do you think are behind their great success?
Beth Underhill: I think that, obviously, the Europeans have been fantastic across the board. I mean you, you see different events, and you see different strengths; I think that being able to compete in Europe is a definite asset for us as North Americans because it’s a different level of competition. You get comfortable competing against the best in the world. I think that when you go to Europe, then you see the amount of shows and the amount of opportunities those guys have to compete in Nations Cups. In North America, we have a handful of Nations Cups, and so being where you get better is being able to practice something, like I just mentioned, to be able to get comfortable doing something over and over again; it’s not something you do once or twice a year. I think that the opportunities that are in Europe, whether it’s the number of five-star shows even for younger riders being able to meet at The Young Riders level, more competitions. The Nation’s Cup opportunities, the global tour, and the level of competition create strength and confidence and create horses and riders that are going to be the best in the world. I think that we’re mindful of that and the necessity to compete outside our comfort zone. It’s not just about, you know, going to Europe for the sake of being in Europe; it’s the fact that we are all comfortable competing at shows nearby us. It shows that we know the people. That we know the venue. We’re comfortable being at home. We have to push outside our comfort zone. That’s where the support needs to come from financially, so that we’re able to do that and be able to compete in situations and in competitions that are a little bit foreign to us. That’s what makes us better.
Jacobsen: Are there any countries that have stood out from the global South or the global East? Because we focused mostly on North America and Western Europe.
Beth: That’s a big topic. I think I answered that pretty much just in the last question.
Jacobsen: Where do you think the sport is headed in terms of some of the things that we discussed before, sort of the ways in which training develops, the ways in which horses and riders are brought along, as well as the development of aspects of the sport like the technicality of the courses?
Beth: That’s also a very, very big topic. I think what’s tricky for us in North America is that in Europe, the horses are raised and developed in Europe. A lot of their local or national shows are very inexpensive relative to North America. So, it’s much easier to develop young horses and riders at less cost. They have access to the opportunity to be alongside all these young horses that are developing throughout the year, so they’re able to be earmarked and identified much earlier. Whereas, in North America, we go over to Europe specifically to look for a horse for a week or ten days, whether it’s a client or whether it’s for ourselves. So that’s much more difficult to find horses and to make it affordable. So, I think the access to the horses makes it tougher for us in the West.
In terms of the sport, in terms of course designing, it’s changed so much when you look at where the sport was even 15-20 years ago. The courses have become much more careful, the jumps that are built are so beautifully designed. They’re light. They’re careful. The time allots have become so much quicker. The training has to be commensurately more specific to each horse. Horses have to be more naturally careful, naturally quicker, and more agile. Before, we were jumping into much more solid courses in much less time allowed. So it’s just become exponentially more difficult and more technical. How much more can you do? I don’t know, but every year you see the heights going up a meter 65, a meter 70; there are so many top courses and riders in the sport. When compared to 20-30 years ago, it’s just become much much more sophisticated.
So I think it’s been fascinating to be part of that trajectory and have to adjust your training and level; the type of horse you gravitate towards can’t just be a huge scope-y horse. It has to be a horse that is able to be quick and competitive in order to win. So I think the veterinary care, the blacksmiths; they’re seeing some horses now jumping without shoes. We’re seeing riders trying different things and more changes and adjustments in the sport that dovetail with the changes we’re seeing in the courses. That part I find fascinating as riders where we have to stay so current and so up on the changes of the rules and the changes of what’s expected of the horses and riders these days. And that part of it, I think, is only going to get better. It’s fascinating to watch how it has changed.
Jacobsen: You mentioned finances as an issue in terms of what the national organization can bring forward for support of some riders at the higher levels. With respect to sort of the provincial-territorial or national organizations, where are they the strongest in terms of their support for riders and so on? Where do you think there is room for improvement?
Beth: It’s difficult to answer that question because I’m not privy to how the funding goes with the provincial versus the Federation. I know more just from what we have access to, but I know, for example, there’s not any money that’s earmarked for the young riders this year and for Canada. These kids need to get out, and they need to have support to be able to compete at these shows. We have invitations and opportunities to compete in Europe. We can’t go; we can’t take advantage of them because there aren’t the finances there. I’m not saying the federations should pay everything, but they should certainly pay something. It’s the same thing for the National Federation for our team in Europe; there was no funding for them to go to Spain. So I mean to me, we need to do better. We need to be able to support not just the senior teams, but the young riders teams that are at the provincial level. That’s at the federal level. That’s across the board.
Jacobsen: What do you notice are some aspects of becoming more seasoned in the sport that are pluses and minuses? I recall Ian Miller speaking to the fact that as one progresses in their age. Your strength might not be as much, but your technicality and finesse will be better, something to that effect.
Beth: Yes, and I mean, I think you could drill that down even for women and men in this sport. I mean, women obviously aren’t as physically strong as men, but they can, maybe, bring a different type of empathy to a partnership. They’re, maybe, going to be a little more patient in the training aspect of it, sometimes; you’re going to bring different things. For sure, as you become older in the sport, you become more, I think, mentally strong. When I was younger, it was just, “Oh, I’ve got to make this team. I’ve got to do that. I’ve got to make this competition be the best.” I would say I look more long-term now. I enjoy the process even more than I did when I was younger. You come at the sport with a little bit more of a calmer attitude. I think for sure it’s fascinating as you grow older the relationships you make with people, not just in North America but in Europe and everywhere across the board in the sport, whether it be veterinarians or blacksmiths.
I’ve been so fortunate to have so many people that I’ve learned from and been able to access when I’ve needed them. That longevity, those relationships, those friendships, and those business relationships come with time. They come with experience. So, I think that’s something I’ve also learned to appreciate, but definitely, the technicalities and the things you learn as you get older help you to outweigh the fact that you may have some more physical limitations.
Jacobsen: Now, I haven’t broached this topic with too many interviewees or even in much depth, but I do come across as conversation while working in the industry a bit. Many years ago, there were cases of individuals misbehaving with the trainees or others and then in different organizations outside of show jumping. They’re dealt with in organizations in different ways, people coming forward, and so on. I know in show jumping. There have been a couple of cases, at least, of individuals who have had claims put forward against them around sexual misconduct in historical circumstances or, maybe, even recently. Do you think these are being handled well or unwell in different ways by sort of the community or by the organizations when these come forward?
Beth: I honestly don’t know enough about it. I can’t speak to that; I honestly don’t know. I think it’s too early days there; I mean, I don’t know the situation specifically you’re speaking of. I don’t want to speak on someone else’s behalf. That’s not something I feel I have knowledge to speak of.
Jacobsen: In 2024, the Olympics in France are coming up. I know many people are excited about that and looking forward to it and trying to put their aims towards it, setting it as part of their plans for the next five years. When you’re looking at that, if you are, what are those steps that you look towards to get to that point? That’s because, as you were noting before, it’s not just you’re there. It’s that you have to make a plan and try to get there while also focusing on contingencies that come about.
Beth: Yes, I mean, obviously, you have a long-term goal, and you have a plan, and you start to think what is the best way in time to peak, assuming you have a horse in mind; the best way to create an optimum situation where your horse is going to be peeking physically and mentally at that time for that competition. Obviously, it’s some time away still. So, with horses, you have to always have that long-term plan in place, but also be able to make adjustments quickly because based on how they feel, based on how they are competing. You may make a change and decide, “My horse needs to break now,” or, “I always need some more competition to get to his level of expertise,” where it needs to be for a top event like the Olympics. So, I always try and be very malleable in my training plan whilst having a very strong overall plan in place in terms of the shows that we think will best create the horse to be comfortable, confident, strong enough, but still fresh enough for competition such as the Olympics. But it would be a little bit early right now to be mapping out the exact shows and competition schedule that we would have 18 or 20 months away.
Jacobsen: When I first interviewed another similarly accomplished woman rider, Erynn Ballard, about a year ago, she warned me. She warned me that if I don’t have a feeling for the horses, then I won’t understand where riders are coming from. And after a sufficient amount of time, I think in this industry. I do have feelings towards the horses. It’s a weird thing that grows on you as you work with them more and more. Do you have any sort of recollection of when you first developed a sense and a feel for horses? I don’t just mean hanging around them doing Pony Club riding and so on. I mean, actually having feelings for them.
Beth: I would say I had an affinity. Like I said, I’ve always been an animal lover since my earliest recollections. So, I’ve always had an affinity for all animals. I am also a very competitive person, and I liked that juxtaposition of having an animal that I loved but still being competitive in a sport that I enjoyed and that was fast enough for me and competitive enough for me. So, as I mentioned, it took a while to decide which avenue because I did have different opportunities through the Pony Club in different aspects. I did some dressage, eventing, and show jumping, but the love of the horse and that competitive nature that I had gradually drew me towards show jumping, but in terms of an affinity for a horse and an understanding and an innate empathy and ability to create a good partnership even with difficult ponies I had to ride at the beginning, that I had early on. I would say I was more brave than technically good initially, but as I got older, a technical aspect of the sport became more and more fascinating for me.
The more I knew, the more I learned, the more I had a hunger for knowledge, whether that was the flat work or whether it was working on making myself a better and faster rider. I always had that hunger for knowledge, and it was just always a natural fit, a natural evolution for me, but the affinity with the horse was always there.
Jacobsen: Do you have any regrets?
Beth: No, not really. I mean, I regret maybe that I didn’t go to Europe sooner. I had some opportunities over the years to go there with a couple of offers, but then when I look back, I mean I’m very close to my family. I created a very strong business in Canada. I’m Canadian through and through, and I loved being a part of the Canadian circuit. So, when I truly look back on it, I don’t know. I’m very much a fatalist; I feel like I made decisions as I went, but a lot of things also presented themselves in a way that seemed to navigate me down a particular path. So, honestly, I don’t have too many regrets. I don’t think too much about could have, should have, would have.
Jacobsen: Ian Millar famously retired in his 70s. Do you have any sort of time that you would like to retire, or is this something you just want to keep going for as long as you can?
Beth: I will know when it’s time. There’s no doubt about that, and I’m very honest with myself in that respect. I don’t sugarcoat things to myself. I’m very hard on myself in terms of what I expect from myself, and so if I felt that I was falling short of what I could do to contribute to the team or to contribute to Torrey Pines at the level of riding that I’m doing, then I would be very clear to stop. I think every rider who has had the experience and ridden as many years as myself or I have done, we have a very clear sense of what you need to do to be successful in the sport. So, that’s not something I dwell on because I know that I will do it as long as I feel that I’m contributing.
Jacobsen: What literature should young riders read to become more educated on the discipline of show jumping?
Beth: I like reading some of Mclean’s books. It was great. I like reading more about riders as opposed to a how-to book. I know when I started, I read a lot of how-to books because that was all that was out there. When I started, you had the Pony Club manual and the horse masters notebook, which were really great for horse husbandry, and I feel like we’ve lost a lot of the horse husbandry with kids getting started at riding schools and things like that. Honestly, when I started, most of us came from a farming community or a country aspect and had access to those types of things. What you learned was what was right and what didn’t work just from experience.
I would say I do feel more and more that people should spend more time at the warm-up ring behind the scenes, and to me, that’s what’s fascinating when you watch the warm-up ring when people are getting ready to compete: the top riders; how they warm up, how they flat their horses in the morning; those are missed opportunities I feel for a lot of people. They come and watch the actual event, but there’s lots and so much to be learned. I like to hear the last-minute advice and the last-minute adjustments that each rider makes and how they mentally step into the ring, whether it’s really quiet or whether they’re talking to their groom or the last-minute advice from a trainer. I find that part of it very, very interesting. So, that to me is something that whether you can be a working student, whether you can volunteer in different aspects of the sport, work for the vet for a week or for a blacksmith, just any you can make your knowledge. Not just specifics to the jumping aspect of it but also to the generalities; the horsemanship, that aspect of it I think could be stronger in young riders coming along.
Jacobsen: I thought of two more questions to wrap us up, I think. One, Sean Jobin spoke to using a lot of modern technology like video recordings and analysis, things of this nature to improve performance in the sport. Do you think this stuff is effective, or not, in a more serious performance level of the sport?
Beth: Oh, I think for sure it is. I mean, I don’t think there’s much that I wouldn’t utilize. I might say it’s not for me, but I would say for sure we all rely heavily on videos. I think you have to be mindful. Sometimes, a round can look better and smoother in a video, and sometimes it can look worse. I mean you also have to go with your feelings. I also find it useful to watch a video right away and then leave it for a few days and look at it again, and you often see something quite different that you missed or just a different sensation. I think we all do rely on videos, particularly those of us who are, you know, at this age and stage in the sport. You don’t always have someone on the ground all the time. So that part of it, I think, is very, very helpful, but I think we also very much have to learn or consider the feel that we have, what our horse is telling us because they communicate very, very well without the spoken word. And I think that it’s easy to get… we all have our own habits, good and bad. I think it’s important as riders that we keep going back. Sometimes I like to jump, just some cavaletti. There are some smooth jumps and really focus on position and focus on my delivery, and you catch yourself doing things that have become a little sloppy or not what they should be.
So, I think you always have to have a self-awareness of what your own individual weaknesses are. We’re all stronger on one side than the other. We are stronger on one side than the other. We are constantly working on strengthening and developing the weaknesses that we have ourselves, so that we’re not creating a detrimental effect on our horses. So, I think we have to consider not only what we can see in front of us, but also what we feel and what we know to be true.
Jacobsen: A lot of the really great riders, as with anyone else, have gone through tragedy in their personal lives. I’m aware of your own. How do you set aside the time to properly grieve while still in the midst of a high-performance level of the sport and continue to compete?
Beth: It’s a good question. I would say that it’s actually been my solace. Oftentimes, when there’s been a tragedy in my life, it is the horses and the competition that have actually brought me back and centred me. I’m a pretty strong individual. I mean, there’s not a lot that brings me down. Still, obviously, there are times in our life and everyone’s life when unexpected tragedy happens. I always found that having the horse and going back to what’s familiar for me and being able to focus on something other than that immediate situation; it has given me great solace. I felt very fortunate to be able to have something like that to lean on to go to and not only the horse, but my colleagues and my friends who are in the industry who understand what we do, who understand what it takes and who is there to lean on as well.
Jacobsen: Beth, thank you very much for the opportunity and your time today.
Beth: You’re very welcome, my pleasure. Thanks for the call.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/10/08
*Interview conducted September 4, 2023.*
*Please see the footnotes, bibliography, and citations, after the publication.*
Abstract
Annette Case is an Adult Amateur Eventer/SJ who was born in Auckland, New Zealand. She started riding at the age of 4/5. She moved to Canada in 1987 and married David Case in 1991, with whom she has 3 girls. She is a small-time breeder of Canadian warmbloods abd competed in preliminary level eventing before having a family with David. Annette is one of the few people responsible for bringing eventing to Northern Alberta in the South Peace Horse Trials. Case discusses: “crazy” eventers; injury in show jumping for a famous man; training; relationship with the horses; and a family life, a balanced life.
Keywords: Annette Case, crazy, eventers, family life, horses, lifestyle, responsibility, show jumpers.
The Greenhorn Chronicles 49: Annette Case on Eventer Stereotypes and Family Life (2)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Many show jumpers I’ve talked about define eventers as “crazy.” They use colloquialisms like that in that they prefer standards, rails, shallow cups, and light rails. The safety aspect of it. They find events, which I’m gathering, more dangerous than show jumping.
Annette Case: I have heard that. Sometimes I tell people I have a dirty little secret – that I’m an eventer. They say, “Oh my God, I’m not brave enough to do that.” It’s just something I’ve alway done. I think any jumping can be dangerous but cross-country is becoming a lot safer. Frangible jumps have been introduced in the last5 or so years and have made the sport much safer. Unfortunately these jumps are quite a bit more expensive to build.
I’m an eventer, however I’m more nervous about show jumping than I am about cross country. I’ve seen rails get caught in horse’s legs and bring the horse down. I feel like my horse will either stop or bounce off the jump out on cross-country whereas, in stadium, they can get mixed up and tangled. I believe or something like that. Superman, Clark Kent, got badly hurt show jumping too.
Jacobsen: What happened to him? I believe he was in a wheelchair. Was he not?
Case: Yes, that was through show jumping.
Jacobsen: Really?!
Case: Yes.
Jacobsen: I didn’t know that.
Case: You learned something today. Getting back to it, it doesn’t bother me if they want to say I’m crazy, I don’t find it offensive. I’m just more comfortable doing the cross country. A jump is a jump is a jump. Laura, when she walks a course with us, she’ll tell us exactly how to approach it or what to do or how to do it or whatever and the same thing with my cross-country coaches. We have a few different varieties: water, banks, drops, etc.… Yes, slightly different questions, but it’s still a jump.

Jacobsen: When you’re doing the three-day eventing, how are you in your mind structuring? How are you going to be doing your training? How are you going to be going about each day?
Case: What I do right now is I have a dressage coach. I see her usually once a week, depending on what’s going on, once every two weeks. We work on straightness, connection, and impulsion. We’ve worked through tests that I’ll be riding too. I have a jumping coach as well. I also take full advantage of lessons with Laura Balisky when she comes up to Grande Prairie, Alberta. She has definitely helped my show jumping. My coaches help with preparation. They know the courses we’re going through when you get to that. If it’s a two-day, it’s slightly different than a three-day. If it’s run over the two days, you always have the dressage first then stadium; I don’t get nervous anymore. If you’ve done your work beforehand and the test is in your head then you just ride to the best of your ability and hope you’ve done your homework.
And then it’s switching gears to the different saddle, different course. Now you’re jumping and the cross-country course is usually around 2K, anywhere between 15, 18, or 20 jumps and some combinations depending on your level. I usually walk four times. I get there and get my package. I try to walk one more time, sometimes not with my coach, but there’s always a course walk with my coach. And then the last time, it’s so I know exactly where I’m going. I usually put on a good 8k. Then, on the third day of the stadium. Again, you put on a different saddle. We got the jumping saddle on and changed gears. You get used to changing gears quite a bit. It was like when I was at Thunderbird with Laura; each day was a new course. I concentrated specifically on that. In some ways, that made it easier; in some ways, it made it harder because you would feel frustrated as you want to keep getting better and better and better. I’m insanely competitive all the time, but know that nearly 100% of the mistakes my horse makes, come from me. We can always get better. So, it’s a humbling sport, that’s for sure.
Jacobsen: Outside of simply competing, do you think the work and thought and construction of a relationship with a horse is for some people a very good part of their life, in that it’s a mechanism for psychological health, it’s helpful?
Case: Yes, 100%. I am one of the very fortunate people. We have 20 acres, so I can have my horses here. I’ve got friends who have land but take the horses to an arena in the winter. I ride outside in the winter. I play with them. I see them every day. For me, it psychologically makes me healthier. I’ve come from a country where I could be outside all day even if it rained, whereas here, I’ve come to a place where it gets cold and you don’t get enough sunlight. I think the horse is a lifesaver. If I hadn’t thought of that, I would now because, with the broken ribs and a concussion, I haven’t been able to get out and get my therapy. I’ve talked to them but I need to ride. We’ve got a provincial park about 10 minutes away. I’m probably down there three times a week with the horses. It’s a huge parcel of land called the Blackfoot Provincial Park. You can look that up if you want. It’s next to Elk Island National Park in Strathcona County.
We go for miles and miles and miles. One day, we might go out for a hack. Sometimes I go by myself, but I’ve got a couple of friends who I meet at six o’clock in the morning. We’ll do hill work, pace work, hacking, gallop sets on acres and acres of land. like quarters… I did look it up, but we’re allowed to ride on this huge amount of land.

We’ve got apps on our phones that we tap into. It records how much walking, trotting, cantering we do, how much hill work, measures the kilometers, cardio output etc. Eventing horses need this; we’re not running them the whole time, but I believe our horses are much happier by doing this rather than doing circles in an arena, on a race track, or something like that. It’s interesting. But we’ve got trails. We’ve got open pasture land. So to answer the question, roughly 3 days a week fitness, one day is dressage, then one day jumping in a week. The horse will probably get two days off a week, sometimes one day, depending on what’s going on with the rest of my life because I do have a family. They do come first, but the horses are a very close second. That’s my life that I need, but I do need the horses. They’re very much a part of my life.
Jacobsen: Even despite having a family making that choice, how do you find horses as a part of that in and out of your life for so long? The first thing I heard about this industry before I even got into it was that it’s a lifestyle.
Case: It’s a 365-day-a-year responsibility.
Jacobsen: How would you encapsulate that? The word that comes to mind is a consuming passion, but I don’t know if that’s necessarily right on point.
Case: You get all sorts of different horse owners. It’s not all-consuming for me because my husband does come first followed closely by the kids. Sometimes, he complains he doesn’t, but he does. I’m a huge family person but my family includes cats, dogs and horses. I am quite willing to go away on holiday. We have one week of holiday in the summer. Usually, we have a couple of skiing holidays, but they might be long weekends, or they might be a week. If we go down to visit my family in New Zealand, then I’m usually away for a little bit longer, but that’ll always be in the winter here, but yes, horses are a big part of my life. I know it’s been a way of life for me.
Jacobsen: Annette, thank you very much for today’s opportunity.
Case: You’re very welcome.

License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/10/01
*Interview conducted September 21, 2023.*
*Please see the footnotes, bibliography, and citations, after the publication.*
Abstract
Lynne Denison Foster is the mother of Rebecca Foster, owner of the Bale and Bucket restaurant, and Tiffany Foster, a professional equestrian show jumper ranked the highest in Canada. She was an aviation professional for 48 years, beginning with Pacific Western Airlines in 1969 in the Edmonton Reservation office and moving to Vancouver in 1973. She helped with the implementation of the first computerized reservations systems for a regional air carrier in North America. Since 1974, she has been an instructor and in 2012 was awarded BC Aviation Council’s Lifetime Achievement Award for her contribution to educating the aviation community. At Canadian/Air Canada, she trained CEOS, Pilots, Aircraft Groomers, and worked on training initiatives and programs for aviation safety management system, computerized reservation systems, corporate change, customer services, frontline leadership, human factors, interpersonal skills, management practices, and service quality. She taught at BCIT between 2000 and 2017. Foster was key in the development of the Aviation Operations Diploma Programs. She was Chief Instructor for 7 years. In 2015, she won BCIT’s Teaching Excellence Award. Foster discusses: a story with parenting principles with Brent Balisky.
Keywords: Brent Balisky, equestrianism, Eric Berne, Hans De Ceuster, Lynne Denison Foster, parenting, Rebecca Foster, Thomas Harris, Tiffany Foster, Transactional Analysis, Transactional Psychology.
The Greenhorn Chronicles 48: Lynne Denison Foster on Storytime with Brent Balisky (2)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: So, in the article we found together in the 50th/bicentennial of Show Park magazine, it stated. Rebecca and Tiffany started early. Costs were an issue. What were the first reactions to the costs? How did you take that approach of facing the problem, problem solve, towards those kinds of costs when income may not necessarily be so high in a sport that was expensive at their level, even more expensive now?
Lynne Denison Foster: You should get Brent to tell you this story. Because he was telling it when we were at the World Equestrian Games in Normandy. I said to him, “Brent, tell me the story of how Tiffany Foster came to your barn as if I am not me.” He tells a really good story. So, you should ask him.
We came from the North Shore with three other families. They thought we had good money for our kids because the other families did.
Jacobsen: Which isn’t an uncommon thing in this industry.
Foster: Yes, basically, you have to. He kind of thought that we were… He spoke with the other parents of the other kids. Because he kind of saved me for the last, I guess. I don’t know. Tiffany and Rebecca were nice kids. And I was a nice person. So, we had a meeting with Tiffany and Rebecca, and Brent and Laura. He [Laughing] asked me how much I was willing to spend. Basically, what was in my budget for my kids…
Jacobsen: I can imagine how those conversations would go.
Foster: You should ask him, because it is a funny story. He says, “How much are you thinking of spending on your daughters’ lessons?” Brent would, probably, remember. I couldn’t remember. I said something like, “Uhhhh, probably, $12,000 a year.” [Laughing] He and Laura looked [Laughing] like, “Is she delusional?” Brent realized, ‘Oh, this lady has no idea how much these girls need if they want to ride and compete in equestrian sport.’ But he said, “Since these two scrawny little kids were such good little kids and the mother was nice, they decided at the time that they would give us a break.” At the time, he said, “It costs more than that. We need a working student. If you pay for your pony’s board, the girls could work for their lessons…” then he said, “Tiffany needs another horse.” Laura had this horse. They paid a lot of money for him, and he was injured. He was on rehab. They could free-lease him to Tiffany, and she could earn her lessons anddo a couple of other things if I paid for the board. That is how the girls got into that. He said, “The next day, there they were. The mother and two little girls hauling hay and mucking stalls.” Whenever my girls had to do something new, I went with them, showed them how it was done, explained what they needed to do, then “let’s do it together” and then “show me how you do it.” Rebecca was nervous. But they were confident because I was there. So, when they knew what they had to do, then it was like, “Okay, get out of my way, I know what I am doing.” Tiffany did a babysitting course when she was 12. A young couple from our church were her first customers. I asked them if I could come with Tiffany, orient her, and explain to her that a good babysitter didn’t just look after the kids, she should do more than that: cleaning up the kitchen, tidying up, etc. I followed the same formula with her: Do it together, explain, let me see how you do it, then do it alone. Even with Rebecca and her cooking, it was the same thing. That was another principle. “Let’s do it together, discover it, be clear and understand what our tasks are, and then I will watch you and give you advice, and then let you do it by yourself, when you are ready, I won’t be there anymore.”
Jacobsen: From your own perspective, these are principles, ways of thinking, ways of delivering those ways of thinking to your kids at appropriate ages, with appropriate consequences, even choosing those consequences. What about situations for yourself as a parent, as any parent has?
Foster: I think I was very lucky with the children that I had. They weren’t hard to raise. I have to say, like I find it more challenging as an adult parent to adult children than I did when they were children.
Jacobsen: How so?
Foster: They were devoted to me. They really were. Do you want another story?
Jacobsen: Please.
Foster: It is kind of late. I’ll do a quick one. We lived in North Vancouver. Part of being in grade 6, children were enrolled in outdoor school for 1 week and learned about nature. Rebecca, whose birthday is in January, was 2 years behind Tiffany in school. The same incident occurred with both of those girls. I took Tiffany to the bus. We lived right behind the school. We walked through this greenspace, which the girls called “Fairy Land.” It was easy for me to walk them with their little backpacks. She was getting on the bus to go to outdoor school. Tiffany asked, “Why aren’t you coming with me?”
“No, Tiffany, I can’t.”
“What?! You have to come.”
“Sorry, Tiffany, there are already enough parents who volunteered.”
“No, you have to come with me. You have to come with me! I don’t want to go by myself.”
She started crying. Clinging to me, and didn’t want to get on the bus, I finally convinced her by getting one of her friends to help me. She got on the bus and I saw her face looking out the window at me with tears coming down her face. Rebecca knew nothing about that. Two years later, “You’re not coming with me?” Exactly the same kind of reaction, they were attached to me, because their dad was a kid. He goofed around with them and loved them , but really didn’t parent them. That was part of it. Another time, okay, riding, they were, probably, 9 ½ and eleven. I decided that they should go to an English riding camp in the summer for a week. So, I was telling them I had registered them. The first words out of their mouths: “Are you coming?”
“No, no, it is a kids’ camp. I can’t go.”
“We’re not going if you’re not going.”
“It is going to be exciting,” blah-blah-blah. So, they wouldn’t go. They didn’t want to go and were upset. Then I found out there was a mother-daughter weekend camp in May. I said, “Hey, let’s go to this one, you’ll see. Then you’ll go to the other one without me.” So, we went to the mother-daughter [Laughing] camp. That was the first and only time I’ve ever ridden English, on this postage stamp piece of leather [Laughing].
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Foster: I was used to sitting in a Western saddle with this big saddlehorn to hang onto, sitting on a big comfortable seat queueing on a trail ride. That was one thing I did for my daughters. I took this English riding camp. I was so sore. I could hardly move [Laughing].
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Foster: They were not difficult children to raise. They were usually happier when their mother was around. You know what I am saying? There was another thing. I taught customer service and leadership skills to the staff and management at the airline. One thing that was very important in the Pacific Western/Canadian Airlines culture was the concept of reward and recognition: how necessary, critical, and important it is to humans… I studied this theory developed by a guy named Eric Berne, a Human Behavior psychologist. In the 70’s, Thomas Harris wrote a book called I’m OK – You’re OK, based on Berne’s research. It was very popular in those days.
Jacobsen: I recall these phrases.
Foster: He developed transactional analysis.
Jacobsen: Transactional Psychology.
Foster: Yes.
[Ed. My Belgian guest who joined me] Hans De Ceuster: Games People Play.
Jacobsen: Games People Play.
Foster: In the book, Games People Play, Eric Berne described three principle needs humans instinctively crave. You may be familiar with this as well. Although you’re probably more familiar with Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs and all that. I liked Berne’s theory because it is much more simplified. He explains that humans crave three things: Recognition, Structure, and Stimulation. So, I did extensive research and included it in my course. Being in the Service industry, I focused most on recognition. But, as a parent, I realized that all three of them are important. That’s, basically, the principles that I raised my children by, in many ways.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/10/01
*Interview conducted September 4, 2023.*
*Please see the footnotes, bibliography, and citations, after the publication.*
Abstract
Annette Case is an Adult Amateur Eeventer/SJ who was born in Auckland, New Zealand. She started riding at the age of 4/5. She moved to Canada in 1987 and married David Case in 1991, with whom she has 3 girls. She is a small-time breeder of Canadian warmbloods abd competed in preliminary level eventing before having a family with David. Annette is one of the few people responsible for bringing eventing to Northern Alberta in the South Peace Horse Trials. Case discusses: early horse experiences; development of interaction with horses over time; getting in a saddle; the structure of the English riding world; expanding into 3-day eventing; being a kiwi rider; cost of horses and barrier to entry; and the horse-rider combination.
Keywords: 3-day eventing, Annette Case, dressage, English riding, equestrianism, horses, kiwi, New Zealand, show jumping.
The Greenhorn Chronicles 47: Annette Case Background to 3-Day Eventing (1)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: So, we were talking off-tape. I wanted to get one thing as a preface to all this. I was focusing on show jumping at the start, but it started expanding quite a lot. So I’ve made this a project where I want to start with Canada, doing English riding and its disciplines and Western riding and its disciplines and then going North American, European and internationally in general. I might take detours from that structure, but I can’t determine how long this project will take. However, I would like to get people who are running equine therapeutic businesses, from small-time riders to big-time riders. So on, to get a rounded perspective on equestrianism because, as far as I know, that’s not been done outside of siloing: show jumping, three-day eventing, dressage, barrel racing, horse racing. The things of this nature. I’ll take a step forward now and ask how you get involved in horses.
Case: It may have been the first word issued from my mouth. I am one of four kids, from a mum who used to show jump in NZ in the days before FEI. Those days all the classes were judged. She grew up on a farm; we grew up on an acreage and there were always horses around. Anytime I could, I’d be out with them. I was infatuated with them initially; my sister and I were.
Jacobsen: How did you find interaction with them over time? I’m talking more before actual riding.
Case: I’ve always loved all my animals, but a horse was something special. We had cats and the neighbor’s golden retriever who were very special too but for me the horses were my friend, therapist, sounding board, wiper of tears. I told them everything but they just don’t talk back.
Jacobsen: [Laughs] They don’t speak English.
Case: Some horses do talk back.
Jacobsen: Yes, there was a child yesterday at the business here. It was a Sunday. She said something to the horse in Spanish, even though the girl’s native tongue is English. I looked at the mother and said, “The horse only speaks Japanese.” It’s amusing because they have this very malleable quality with how we, as human beings, engage creatures anyway.
Case: Yes. I’m in my mid-50s. Sometimes, the reason may be hazy, but I know if I was in trouble with Mum or dad, I’d go to the horse. We were lucky, we lived on an acreage so it was fairly cheap to keep a horse back then. I’d talk about my problems. If I were younger than that, I’d sit there and hug them or cry and say, “Life isn’t fair.” So, it’s always been that extra, that little bit of… I didn’t think of it as that back then, but maybe therapy if you want to add that extra… Something extra there… what I mean is they were there for you.
Jacobsen: People get their start if they want the basics of good riding in dressage. Everyone tells me. How did you start in a saddle?
Case: Mum was very busy. She couldn’t always be watching us and we were always on the horse every second we had. We weren’t allowed to ride with a saddle just in case we got caught up so we hopped on bareback and hared around the paddocks. Depending on who wanted to ride, we’d double or even triple and from time to time tumble. Sometimes, we shared a horse for a bit and took turns. Later on, there were two horses and we’d play tag with the neighbours. I probably got a normal start to riding and went to pony club as soon as I could talk my parents into it. It’s a little different from here but has the same values. I rode the horse to pony club every Saturday and spent basically the whole afternoon there.
You get taught how to look after your horse right from the little stuff you can do when you’re young to the big stuff as you get bigger and better. There are instructors and many volunteer parents present the whole time—a lot of work. You sit tests; you move up your levels. That’s how many kids in New Zealand get started. That’s how I got started.

Jacobsen: Is that structure now similar to other areas of the English riding world regarding how kids get into riding?
Case: I’m not too familiar with other country’s pony club systems but I would imagine, they’d be somewhat similar. I haven’t been there for over 30 years. Here, you can choose between going to a riding stable, a pony club, finding a coach and leasing horses or just ride at home if you’re lucky enough to live on an acreage, farm or ranch. Many kids I’ve known here in Canada have found a coach who will take you through the basics of riding and horse care. Flatwork or dressage before you start jumping, but it depends on that coach’s training, upbringing and everything. It’s a little bit different here. Does that answer your question?
Jacobsen: Yes. As you became more experienced as a rider, you had to expand into different riding disciplines to get to where you are now. How did you go about doing that? Was it a structured process or more of an organic, exploratory endeavour?
Case: In New Zealand, we didn’t have Western riding when I was growing up. I believe it is there now but it was all English riding. Through the pony club there was structure but we also watched our heroes like, Sir Mark Todd, Andrew Nicholsen, Blythe Tait etc. Mark was a show jumper and an eventer, winning Badminton Horse Trials in England before going on to win back to back Olympic titles on a horse called Charisma. There was also Show jumping and dressage as equestrian sports but not quite in the spotlight like Eventing was. I don’t know what it’s like in NZ now but back then Dressage was not quite as popular.
Coming through Pony Club, you get a chance to do the pony club games at the rallies, which are all focused on you enjoying your horse while learning at the same time. Every pony club had a one-day event. It’s like a three-day event, but the dressage, cross-country and show jumping are all in one day.
Here in Canada, we run a lot of what are called horse trials. They run the three disciplines, but because of distances, they run it over two days. Distances and the number of volunteers that we have available, make it easier to run the dressage and show jumping on one day because they’re the two smaller events and then run the cross country on the third day.
The thing with one day events is that the rider gets a taste of all three disciplines and if you decided that you like one discipline better than another then you could branch off .
I love the thrill, the adrenaline of it, but in my first year out of high school; I didn’t get into the program I wanted to attend at university. I worked for a show jumper named John Cottle, New Zealand’s 1984 individual show jumping representative at the Los Angeles Games. I got to be a working pupil, so essentially I groomed for him, worked the horses at home and he had lessons. I love show jumping, but I also love cross country, so I did both.
Jacobsen: You’re my first eventer interview formal and the first person, as far as I know, who has a New Zealand history with horses in general. [Ed. part of a slow process of going international and into different disciplines.] This is an interesting aspect of it because a lot of the time, when I’m talking to Canadians, there are a lot of assumptions under the surface. For instance, something as simple as you say we didn’t have Western. For instance, that would not be something to come up in British Columbia or Alberta.
Case: No.

Jacobsen: So, the context in which someone does grow up with horses can impact the paths that are open to them or what they see before them as they’re growing up in a particular sport.
Case: Yes. Geographically, that makes a huge difference, right? Growing up in Alberta, I would think that most young riders would think of Western riding unless born into an English riding family. They would think of horses and think of the westerns, right?
Alberta and BC and maybe even Saskatewan have working ranches where horses are a way of life so I imagine geographically there’d be higher numbers of western riders in the western provinces.
I was lucky enough to grow up with horses but I can only afford to do what I’m doing now because I’m very fortunate. My husband has a great job, we live in the country and we have the horses at home. I pay for coaching, but I keep my horses at home. And you make a lot of sacrifices. Families come along. You choose whether you run with a family or the horses; you can try and do both, but it wouldn’t have worked for me. It geographically and economically determines what you will do and how you will do it.
Jacobsen: Gail Greenough noted a similar difficulty regarding ever having a family. You have a family. However, regarding that decision one makes about whether to have one, I think she was quite frank about noting that as a regret. Even though, within her career, she was very successful.
Case: Yes. It’s one of those things I didn’t even think about growing up. I’ve been a person who’s always lived for the moment but not a risk taker either. I always wanted to have something to do with horses but decided early on that I wasn’t going to work for them because I didn’t want them not to become the love and passion that I have. I was very lucky enough to have another sport that I was very good at. I played field hockey not on the national team in New Zealand but at a national level. I possibly could have made it had I not left the country when I did. My mum played on the New Zealand field hockey team. I mean, it was a possibility if I wanted it.
I forgot where I was going with this, but the horses were….I didn’t want them to be my work, I wanted them to be my sport and passion. I definitely would have said that I wanted to make the Olympic team at one point. Every young kid wants to go to the Olympics. Yes, I did, but when I decided I wanted a family, I realized it wasn’t for me. I mean it’s fine when it’s the two of you; I can decide to do something, without making a choice for my husband. He can come with me, or he can go do his own thing. When you have kids, everything changes. If I choose to do the horses, he has to look after the kids, or we pay somebody to look after the kids. We didn’t want to do that. We wanted it to be one of us with them. If I chose to compete, follow the horses, go as high as possible, I was choosing Dave to look after the kids. I didn’t want him to do that all the time and I wanted to do it, too. So basically, I rode all through pregnancy. I rode while we had the kids. I still rode when they were young, but then, at a certain age, I stopped competing and just rode at home.
Once the kids were not too financially dependent on us, it was, “Okay, the time is mine now.” Luckily, horse riding is one of the sports that, as long as you’ve kept yourself fairly healthy and fit, you can still ride. You don’t have to be under 30 to be half-decent. It’s also the only sport that I know that you can compete alongside your stars: Laura Jane, say she was riding a young horse – you might have a young horse in the same division and be competing alongside them. Whereas you’d never get a chance to play with or against an NHL player or an NFL player. The factor is that of the horse; it’s the level of the horse, a young horse or a green horse. You’ve got your green horse. You’re all in the same pool together.
Jacobsen: I remember Tiffany Foster mentioned that the horse is the great equalizer in one article or interview that had been turned into an article. Yet, Mac Cone noted, a certain number of horses are born each year. There’s a higher demand for them internationally. The price is based on demand. Limited supply creates an artificial inflation of the prices of the horses. Those Olympic-level horses, say half a million dollars to five million dollars or something like this, become further and further out of the reach of people without sufficient means. Something that you were alluding to before: how much does finance, especially now, create a barrier to entry into higher ends of the sport for many people who have the talent but are more ordinary in terms of means?
Case: It is a huge barrier. That does not mean to say that it can’t be done. If you work hard, are in the right place at the right time, and want it badly enough, I’m sure it can be done. It’s just not as easy without the financial backing. I have three young prospects who are well-bred and depending on the people who end up with them, and lady luck, they may make it to the higher end of the sport. They don’t have that huge price tag on them, but somehow, they’ve got to find a market. “Who you know” helps but i dont have the finances to compete with them up the levels so I enjoy the babies and pass them along.
Jacobsen: When do you think most riders are serious about going to the Olympics or getting to the higher end of the FEI rankings peak? What is that time of life for them typically?
Case: For a rider?
Jacobsen: Yes.

Case: I don’t know if I am fully qualified to answer that. From my knowledge of other sports and stuff, I would say that it would depend on the relationship with a horse and where they’ve come from. I don’t know the youngest rider to be at the Olympics. I know some young people have been there as eventers, and Canada has had young show jumpers too. Usually, they’re mid-20s at the youngest. It depends on how much experience they’ve had or how quickly they’ve been able to move up the levels, if they’ve had to go to school, if they’ve had to have breaks anywhere along the line through injury or for family or anything like that.
Jacobsen: There was one young lady, Luiza Almeida. She was in dressage on the Brazilian team at the 2008 Olympics. At that time, she was 16.
Case: Yes. The minimum age at the Olympics is 14. But I would imagine that there has been no lack of money, she’s been able to decide to ride; she’s had top-quality instructors and quality horses. I don’t know how well she did, but she made the nation’s team and went to the Olympics – that’s amazing.
Jacobsen: 39th was the ranking.
Case: That’s awesome. Here, I think there’s a lot more people, there’s a much larger populace wanting those few spots on the team. I think you’ve got to do a bit more and be more out there. I’m not qualified to give you that answer, but I know it would be a lot harder to do it in a country where more people are riding who are fighting for those spots. They’ll have so many qualifiers that you have to do and whatnot and how your horse goes and if they get lame or if you have a straight run-through and stuff like that. Even though you’re talking about the rider, it all depends on whether you’ve had a horse that’s been able to do that all the way through, too.
Things can throw a huge wrench in some people’s plans. The 15 yr old horse that is at the top of his game one season but the Olympics are still 2 yrs away… anything can happen in that 2 years of waiting. And again, I haven’t been at that level.
Jacobsen: You got me thinking. In one of my first interviews, I was lucky enough to get one with Erynn Ballard, also within a couple of months of working in the industry. I didn’t know anything. I recall her saying something more akin to your own perspective on the financial thing or the horse rider combination, both of them at the same time, where she noted that with respect to being able to buy a great horse, she still thinks that or likes to think that the best horse and rider combination where you build that relationship, is the strongest predictor of a successful performance.
Case: I had a special young horse that I was working with many years ago and I was talking to a course designer who had ridden at the Pan Am’s, wondering if I should get a good trainer to start this horse or do it myself. And he said, “Annette, you’re a good enough rider and you’ve got enough knowledge to do this. If you want to have this horse to compete on, you start it and then find trainers to work with to learn how to put the buttons on. You’ll do better relationship-wise if this is the horse that you want to ride and compete on to start it yourself.” I honestly do believe that having a good horse and rider relationship makes a more successful partnership which should go hand in hand with performance.
I breed a few of my own horses. I start them. Then we see where they go; like, right now, I’ve got a nice three-year-old. I will probably start it and enjoy it as a three- to four-year-old. But then it might go somewhere else for somebody to take it further than I could afford or probably do myself. So yes, I take pride in putting a nice start on them. What I know, though, scratches the surface Scott but it’s a passion of mine and my sport as opposed to my livelihood. I’ve had horses most of my life, but I’ve not been in it as a work thing for most of my life.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/10/01
Abstract
Mattanaw, formerly “Christopher Matthew Cavanaugh,” earned a B.S. in Computer & Information Science and a B.S. in Psychology from the University of Maryland, and is working towards a Masters of Business & Economics from Harvard University. He is a former Chief Architect fopr Adobe Systems and the Current President/Advisor & Chief Scientist for Social Architects and Economists International. What follows is the single longest interview submission to date, I think, with the second-longest from Hindemburg Melão Jr., Mattanaw discusses: intelligence tests; scaling intelligence; learning more about intelligence and intelligent people; pathways in life; patterns of behaviour of the high range; personal development and understanding oneself; Mensa membership and its value; areas of reading; historical figures; evaluating those historical figures; self-protection; and a concluding response.
Keywords: computer science, information science, Harvard University, IQ, Mattanaw, psychology, psychometrics, significance and velocity of ideas, Social Architects and Economists International.
Conversation with Mattanaw on Identifying Highly Gifted People
Opening Response
The informal method utilizing significance and velocity of ideas is not only applicable for utility comparing living people, it has some utility for understanding historical figures, through an analysis of their productive works, converted into analytical tools like AI and machine learning. Because it is useful for living and historical figures, it is universally applicable to all humans. Taking what people are able to do in their higher quality analyses of conversations, one can make a software system emulating the skills of the conversation evaluator. This has not been accomplished but is incipient, and the author expects this to eventually occur. ChatGPT shows some promising usefulness I hear, although I don’t use it. A manual informal description is required before there is an automation substitute. This is based on long experience guiding corporations who are often interested in replacing workers with systems performing the same jobs. However, historical finished productions are edited, and the time to completion is unknown; which just means that historical works that are complete and growth is often unknown because revision histories are lost. This is highly relevant to the analysis but it does not mean that no analysis can occur on only the results of thinking people.In my work I’m interested in both quality of finished products and growths of learning in brains and resulting changes in productions over time. More will be said below regarding this concerning the question of historical figures, especially as it relates to dissertative thinking and velocities of significance and ideation, and change deltas.
The informal method mentioned is described in passing as the related topics are developed. Instead of explaining this concept in depth out of context, it is explained gradually in context, where there are many examples to be shared, in relation to the interesting questions posed by Mr. Jacobsen.
Questions concerning the well being and interests of Highly Intelligent figures is also related to this method, that is used separately as a method for appraising quality of thought and output. This includes the question as to why some highly intelligent people appear to be unproductive. Lack of productivity is a sign that there are certain other parts of the nervous system that may not be as sophisticated as the intelligence of the individual, but since there are many ways to produce recordings, executive function is questioned if one has been unable to become productive somehow. Consider that the extent of the planning of my work and software and skill acquisitions of computer programming, software design, typing, and a huge array of other skills was required to create a total usable system for conveying significance fast. Conversation is not only verbally performed, of course, but is also written, and is present in artworks. If there is an excessively lopsided difference between claimed intellectual prowess and productions, meaning there is a low velocity of significant ideas in recordings, it too is an indication that if there are not other debilitating issues preventing production, the claims of extreme giftedness are at least partly fraudulent. There would have to be very strong reasons provided for remaining inactive having gifts, wanting less feedback on behavior, and no claim can be made that only thinking provides all the feedback needed, because I can make the claim that happens to be true, that I can do the same, and yet no mind is so powerful as to not require environmental feedback from sophisticated thinking. Otherwise the smartest of all children need not do anything in a very short time. In the High Intelligence community there are many variations in intelligence, and one is expected to have gradations and selectivity in fraud, to fill gaps, and to present strengths as greater than they are. Great unproductivity is a decrease in the total velocity of total communicativeness of significant ideas. Whereas, those who are extremely productive “omnichannel”, meaning on all communicative channels available, they are more likely to be extremely gifted. This accounts for our expectation that highly gifted individuals producing masterworks of various kinds, and large contributions of written materials, really were extremely gifted. However, it is possible for Highly Intelligent people, to be “locked up” in their minds, having other deficiencies related to communication, including disease or difficulty with motor systems, making it hard to create works worth retaining and sharing. This topic relates to claims of “genius”, a word I’ll keep saying I dislike when I have to mention it. If there is no evidence of great productions and works, in their various ways of appearing in life, in work careers and in books and writing, then there is no “genius”, particularly if the person has no illness or deficiency like those mentioned above, which would cause us to want to look further into why their mind cannot result in actions evidencing in a non-lopsided way, the quality of their minds. Without any illness, it appears they are lacking communication skills directly related to their minds, which would low velocity of significant ideas in conversation too. If one can speak, or sign, with great velocity and significance of ideas, unhindered, then one is providing “potential recordings” that would provide evidence if there were not other physical or nervous obstacles to make those recordings. People of high repute in the academic community can and have dictated incredibly high quality materials showing obviously the quality of their minds. Bertrand Russell, using an anecdote, would think about his work until he had a clarity he liked enough to simply dictate it to his secretary who would type it. I use an alternative strategy I think is superior, but that strategy does seem to indicate the plausibility of this possibility. One can be very powerful in dictation. But there are highly intelligent people who do lose their speech too, from strokes or other health events. These considerations make it plain that communication is a vitally important component in determining if someone is really intelligent or not, and these together support the view that an informal method of using communication to appraise velocity and significance of ideas is of good utility for determining if someone is extremely gifted, in the highest ranges. In the worst case, it can be used to determine if some are frauds. Charlatans do exist and they do not fare well on this informal measure. In the future they will be detected automatically, as finally, this informal method and skill is built into software systems that can do the same work that a highly intelligent mind auditor can do.
Scott Douglas Jacobsen:
*Question 1: The most legitimate intelligence test scores tend to come from comprehensive tests with money and research dumped at them, e.g., the SB and the WAIS. Yet, their ranges are fairly tight around 40/45 to 160/155 on S.D. 15. Some statistical, psychometric techniques, e.g., Rasch-equated, have been employed by individual experimental psychologists, e.g., Dr. Xavier Jouve, to extrapolate for claimed scores at 175 S.D. 15, for example. Alternative tests made by independent test constructors are interesting and vary in quality, though have a far larger quantity. In the article, bluntly, you state, “140,150,160,170,180 are the numbers immediately grasped by liars and exaggerators.” When using alternative tests, more than the first test attempt to claim a score at 140, 150, 160, 170, and 180, what are first thoughts coming to mind to you?
Opening Response for Answer One
Before moving on to my answering of the main question, I want to handle the following embedded concern about a portion of my referenced article: ‘In the article, bluntly, you state, “140,150,160,170,180 are the numbers immediately grasped by liars and exaggerators.”’ The cause for this particular statement, which is strictly true, and something I’ve experienced many times, is that people recall what a high score happens to be from their cultural recollections, and falsely self-attribute those same scores, which are round numbers. These are easier to recall than say, 97, which may figure into the statement “My intelligence score is 97”. To provide a high example, we hear that some historical figure has an IQ of 160 over and over, and that another has 180. These are fabrications because of a lack of actual test scores for historical figures and their supporters acting as information marketers, who are the causes of these messages. These are applied to historical figures to mean that they are “geniuses”, although few in the public really understand what these numbers mean, or how high those scores really are, and whether or not these figures are really as smart as those numbers indicate. They later recall these numbers more easily and then, when they falsely pretend a score for themselves, they choose those same numbers. I’ve heard this so many times from fraudulent claimers boasting about their “smarts” having no idea of psychometrics that I’m certain this is the explanation. My father has done this before choosing the score of 160, and while he is moderately intelligent, he has no idea what is IQ is. He simply grabbed what he heard Einstein’s IQ was, which of course is also false, and again, people chose that number, because they heard that is what a geniuses score would be, but they have no information about Einstein’s testing. There is an additional reason, however, which should be more obvious, and it is this. It is unlikely that if a person has a particular test taken, that their score will be a round number such as this. Suppose one has really scored in the 160s, but hasn’t had their score revealed to them. There is only a 1/10th chance that their score is 160, and not 161-169 (disincluding the diminishing probability of the intelligence increasing from 160 to 169. In that case I could choose another range, say, from 156 to 165 and say again, that the person scored is somewhere in this range but doesn’t know what the score is. In that case the more probable score is either 155, 156, 157, 158, or 159). The same is true for any of the other sets, 140-149, 150-159, 160-169, &c (also disincluding the diminishing probabilities of the higher numbers individually). The propensity to choose a round number combined with the rarity that it would be a round number, and the rarity of even having that score, combines to indicate that the person simply stating their IQ simply doesn’t have that score. If someone says they have an IQ of 200, it’s even more of a round number. Why did you not tell me it is 223, and not 200? The use of the round number is an indication that someone is lying regarding their IQ, and if they are that intelligent they would have the awareness to present a percentile figure and not an IQ score in any case. I’ve noticed this time and again in the misattribution of IQ scores to untested historical figures, living actors, and to people themselves who are simply trying to tell others that they are “geniuses” but of course, they have not been tested at all.
Relating this to the detection of scammers, a question later in the interview, I would immediately utilize unproductivity as a “red flag” that they are really lying. But I don’t require that it be a red flag either, because from conversation, I already know they are lying.
What is great about the informal evaluation method using velocity of significance and ideation is that one more quickly knows that my father was incorrect by listening to him. It has general application and immediately reveals one has a score that is not profoundly intelligent, and while it is usable for estimating anyone to a degree, obviously without psychometrical precision, it is more easily used by an immeasurably gifted person to see another is not immeasurably gifted.
The remainder of the question is handled extensively below.
The General Plausibility of Scaling Intelligence, and Our Unfortunate Inability to Create Tests That Can Rank Measure It for the Immeasurable
There are very difficult norming requirements for tests exceeding the range of the Stanford-Binet and Wechlser, meaning that a very large sample pool of test participants must make themselves available in order to validate the test scoring, and ranking with the general population. This is applicable in two ways: firstly, the maximum one can score is approximately or equal to the 99.997th percentile on the total test, that is comprised of subtests that themselves have maximum IQ scores at the 99.89th percentile. One can reach the limit by getting maximum scores on subtests or the total test, which would also mean, that the maximums were reached for subtests only at the 99.89th percentile. I don’t think this limitation has been overcome except for some tests that are not themselves IQ tests, but academic tests, that supposedly correlate well to IQ tests. These tests, the academic ones, do have some credibility to me, for establishing higher capabilities. Especially the Miller Analogies Test, although that test is not culture-fair, and has some definite limitations for testing people not very well exposed to culture in the English language. It also has a deficiency in that it is verbal focused and relates mostly to specific subtests that on IQ tests have a ceiling at the 99.89th percentile, making correlation to FSIQ a confusing issue. It correlates more directly to verbal subtests and extrapolation would be required to really understand the relationship between MAT scores that are higher, subtests that ceiling at the 99.89th percentil, and FSQI that is higher but utilizes subtests from the visual domain. It cannot be used to provide a raw IQ score, in the same way as a true IQ testcan, but is purported to able to provide rank differentiation at a higher level, of 8 Standard Deviations, as published by Pearson. That would be an IQ of 300, at SD25, and a rarity into the billions. Later I will discuss this test in more detail, and will share some critical flaws, other than those already mentioned. This test is well normed from my understanding, meaning many test takers have used it with results being processed, using participants as human experimental subjects without disclosure (like the SAT), making bell-curve distribution possible, but someplace between 3 and 8 standard deviations there is definitely a norming issue, due to lack of test takers to establish rarity. Billions of people have not taken the test. That means after somewhere between the 99.89thpercentile and IQ 300 territory meaningful comparisons between participants regarding IQ will be harder to justify.
Scaling of the MAT appears to have some meaningfulness because the method of scaling appears to have uniform growth characteristics–the test is only comprised of analogies so more analogies are simply added, and those who can answer more, have scaled past other test-takers who simply couldn’t answer as many questions. I have related the scaling of the test to scaling of a chess-board which can begin as a 2×2 matrix with a few pieces, to any larger matrix, not only an 8×8 matrix as it currently is. The game would become increasingly harder to solve as the board increases in size, and the current size is fun because it offers a level of challengingness that many enjoy, but is not so complicated as to make it unfun to play, when out of the range of comprehensibility. Chess is already incomprehensible at an 8×8 matrix for much of the population. This example would be like the scaling of a visual problem solving matrix on visual portions of IQ tests, and one wonders how the MAT could relate given it is not visual. But the purpose of the illustration is to convey the scaling idea. Problems on the IQ test all scale in complexity until participants are unable to answer questions on all subtests that vary, and eventually one runs out of questions if one is very talented in a specific domain, although some subtests resemble complete IQ tests on their own, and for these tests I have maximum scores, both verbal and visuospatial.
An interesting challenge to the MAT test is why it scales to 8 standard deviations at all, and why not 12, or 14, or more? Why not scale it like a chess board to infinity? What is the purpose of scaling the test to an IQ correlate of 300 if no one on the planet can come close to scoring that high, and nobody does come close.
The way the MAT test is scaled is by including a very large set of analogies making conceptual comparisons using words that are simple to understand, providing some easy answers, scaling those until they are rare and challenging, like a vocabulary exam, and also by increasing the complexity of the comparisons that are demanding on culture dependent factual knowledge, that one must understand well or the comparisons might be unsuccessful. The set is huge so it exceeds what people can remember as far as concepts, and what they could learn relating to potential studies and experiential learning. But at 8 standard deviations there is some cause for the largeness of the analogy set, which is big enough to make it impossible for people to score well on, with all but one person scoring at 6 SDs, which would correlate to an IQ of over 250, although I question that correlation for lack of data and a range of other reasons. But that means nobody but one person has scored between 6 and 8 standard deviations and that person barely scored over 6 SDs. This means nearly zero people have scored that high, yet the test is claimed to score that high.
Would it discredit the test if more analogies in other languages were utilized, or all languages in which we have sufficient conceptual knowledge, to account for the linguists who obtained knowledge who would also like to be tested, making it culture-fair, by including all of them? Why not scale it more, or replace concepts with interlingual concepts. The effect of the culture-unfair nature of this test is that not all concepts someone might know would be in the test pool, including not only concepts of other languages that are unique and asynonmyous, but concepts in specific fields that are not covered. I have extensive understanding of concepts that I can clearly see from experience are entirely disincluded from the test and it appears this relates to the manner in which Pearson has aggregated concepts.
What of the ethics of including all the concepts of immigrant minds versus not? What are the ramifications for those in the highest range who cross over national and linguistic boundaries? Why not include all concepts that exist!? If such a test were created, probably the range would be some large number over 20 Standard Deviations, and would be impossible for earthlings into the distant future. This would be like the chess board that has grown to a 160×160 matrix with many more pieces, being figurative. But would that debunk the test, for testing impossible giftedness? Already that is what it does, and it does this by testing for concepts that no-one learns or wants to learn too, out of differential interest that does relate to effectiveness in life, and moral self-guidance as to values of study. It tests for concepts that exist in the history of clothing for example, something I’m not too interested in despite enjoying fashion, for knowing with executive function what to omit from my life in order to pursue excellences. Areas of music and so on that seem to be of popular musicology are also included, but one can be very wise to eliminate that as a detailed study in one’s life too. Interests management is important to overcome procrastination, and while some are interested in textiles, like kinds of hats, and musicologists may be interested in older styles of music and their history, one is smart to omit whatever one is not interested in to pursue real life objectives and this conflicts with testing for these things. What the intelligent person omits from life is veryimportant.
If foreign language concepts were added, they would be as unlearned in the general population as concepts from other languages. This might be interesting for those committed to the learning of other languages thinking it provides evidence of intelligence.
It should be mentioned that this test appears to be one easily released by Pearson, because they have a pool of concepts from textbooks that appear in glossaries and the like, and all it takes is the formation of combinations of concepts from this data set to create a pool large enough to support the simple tests they create and publish. The cause of the selectivity of concepts requires justification that I think does not exist, and instead, the focus is on inclusiveness in the English language what Pearson happened to aggregate.
Pearson can have a good earning revenue even if they don’t believe in the test and it it is true that it doesn’t have extremely widespread application, not being a choice test for college admissions. The ease of release relates to the ease of earning despite having a somewhat low number of test takers compared with the SAT.
At one point having fun with MAT study guides that actually makes a good source of study of human knowledge because it covers so many area categories, I created a system of a combination of a hierarchical directory tree, with spreadsheet data nodes, making a sort of database containing structured MAT data that had Pearson concepts in it from study guides, and any concepts I would add. But after a period of enjoying learning with this method, I realized I didn’t care about learning concepts about clothing, and certain cultural areas in which there isn’t sufficient cause justification for the time expenditure, which again, limits the executive function component of the test. I noticed at that time however, I could think of other categories of understanding that were disincluded, like medical and technology concepts. For example, having been exposed in youth to the Merk Manual, I knew definitely many concepts in that text were not in Pearson’s pool of concepts and that could be because Pearson publishing does not issue that text, and therefore doesn’t have those concepts in the test pool. To me this reduced chances that if I took the MAT I would be unable to exhibit my full potential, and it does mean there is favoritism regarding interests in test subjects.
The MAT is a relatively risk free test to take and one can be examined by it without any of the side effects of an IQ test, because one simply doesn’t care if one scores poorly and all do, considering the relationship to what a 100% score would be. This is another interesting limitation on the test because one feels like the results are somehow inapplicable for not mattering. This is only partly the case, since I still think there is some correlative validity, relating to the propensity of highly intelligent people to master concepts fast, coming from those in which they were really exposed and were interested in seeking and really those who are highly intelligent are more stimulated in a normal environment, seek information curiously, but on topics they are interested in, and not those they are interested in omitting, and they do retain conceptual data better, and automatically perform better on these tests. Profoundly gifted kids vacuum information and seek new information out of great curiosity, but environments are often less stimulating, children choose their interests, and some level of natural interests and disinterests steer highly intelligent kids toward and away from, concepts that appear in this test. Intelligent problem solving results in how to divide life into what is entirely unexperienced and what is experienced deeply.
As an example, we can compare with the subtest measure on vocabulary from a normal IQ test, which has some similarity. I score 99.89% on this test and there is no scaling past this further, so I cannot test any higher. That’s as long as it is normed with the regular population. I perform very well on the MAT practice tests and have seen for myself without taking the actual test that it confirms my scores. This is due to my being able to absorb information from my environment, my being well-read on areas of interest, and so on. I score very high on this test even though I was understimulated outside the domain of athletics from middle school to the end of high school, and was discouraged away from reading that entire time. I read very little except towards the end of High School, yet like a kid vacuuming information, I still obtained very good conceptual knowledge across domains. However, it was not until later that I became highly interested in self-study, and I know from my recollections of all my learning experiences, that I did not learn the concepts required to do well on this test or the similar vocabulary section of the Stanford-Binet 5 until self-directed study around the age of 18 onwards. I did not look into the Miller Analogies test until after I was 34 years old, and by that time, I read far more probably than most in Mensa (going by the time commitment versus what I see around me and results of conversations), and I didn’t read almost anything outside of school while I was younger. My family did not encourage reading. This implies that those who are profoundly gifted cannot use their native capacities on the test, without conceptual mastery because they would do poorly, and those who did not read in youth or come from other nations cannot really utilize the test, depending on the time lost learning concepts of other languages, or not learning concepts at all, as with some native tribes.
A cause of my not wanting to take the formal Miller Analogies Test relates my not wanting to forever take academic examinations, and because in choosing which I might want to take for grad school, I wanted one that would be as widely accepted as possible, and the MAT simply is not accepted at as many schools as the GRE or the GMAT. The SAT, GRE, GMAT, LSAT and MAT are all considered test correlates to IQ, but having already testing with maximal scores on an IQ test, which is best, because it is the intelligence test that these tests are hoped to correlate to, selecting which one and deciding upon the time commitment for self study is important. What else does the test do for me for college admission for graduate school? This was a question I had, and I found anyway that I did not really need it for admission. But ultimately I did not take any of these anyway, finally realizing my immeasurable intelligence scores were adequate enough and I didn’t need more testing, and my application for college and my employment screenings already include my resumé, that has my psychometric information already included on it including my maximums, which state I’m smarter than most at Harvard already. I also wouldn’t need any of it anyway being advanced in my career past having any need for education, since those obtaining a number of doctorates wouldn’t be able to have the job that I obtained anyway, for rarity, competition, and difficulty. My job is what college degrees were for and not the other way around, if one was not wanting to simply teach as a professor.
One might wonder why I am spending so much time on the MAT, and that’s because it is a critical point of interest considering society admissions at and above the 99.997thpercentile, and it is the only test the Prometheus society accepts presently. But taking that test doesn’t get you into other societies that are higher, like Mega which doesn’t include it as an option and requires more tests that was created by Mega’s creator, Ronald Hoefflin, unless he had support. This means if you want to take a test to get into Mega you need yet more tests, that we will see are more dubious than the MAT, and the MAT does have serious limitations. These two societies do not accept any test that is an IQ test, that is in the ranges I included above for the Stanford-Binet 5 and the Wecheler, or those that have a similar heritage that have been extended, or are much older.
What I still like about the MAT is that it is still widely accepted and popularly used, whereas tests for the Higher Range past the Stanford-Binet V and Wechseler in extended ceiling tests are used infrequently by Psychologists. This is a cause for their not being accepted by Prometheus, but Prometheus then accepts the limitations of the MAT. Since neither Mega nor Prometheus accept these tests, it indicates an unwillingness to use them that is meaningful for the purposes of deiding what to take, and for suspecting that justifications relate to problems with these tests, even if they are seemingly in the same lineage as the tests I took.
There are other unpopular tests that are very close in similarity to the standard Stanford Binet 5 and Wechseler tests I took. At one point I considering taking the Cattell and the “Woodcock Johnson” (?!), but I could not find any psychometitor in either of my home locations at the time who administer it. By psychometitor I mean professional Psychologist who is skilled in test administration. They are also trained and have a reputation connected to proper administration of these tests for all people in the population. They also have ethical standards and relationships with organizations to which I was exposed when I obtained my degree in Psychology. Being infrequently administered, there are risks using these tests and the credibility of the Psychologists is more questionable for using them over others that are more standard. One cause for taking the Cattell, is entirely to inflate the resulting IQ scores, simply by taking the reports, written with standard deviations of 24. On the Stanford Binet V, I mentioned that one can score 99.89 percent rarity for subtests with maximum 145 subtest IQ, and an FSIQ combination result of up to approximately 164, at 99.997 percent rarity, at SD 15. Those same scores on the Cattell are 174 and 198, so it simply looks better to others to claim higher scores, but nobody being told understands only the percentiles should be used to stop this practice of confusing others. There is also a practice of translating scores of one test to the scores of another, so those who didn’t take the Cattell will say they hit the ceilings at 174 or 198, without telling you they never took it! Einstein’s score, which is unknown, is communicated to be 160, but his score on this test would be 198. They are the same score!They are based on subtest scores of 145 and 174 that have not been tested any higher if one scored maximally!
Despite being hard to find these tests, they appear more popularly used, and not lessthan extended ceiling tests going past my immeasurability marks. Being largely unused, and unpopular, being administered by only a few Psychologists at a distance, I thought it an odd choice to trust them. How do these Psychologists work out issues with administration of the test and proctoring and scoring, if there are so few in the community to provide mutual support. What is missing from intelligence tests of the High Range is that there is limited testing of the administration of the testsand correction of issues in the administration that should result in not providing scores, among many other issues that simply result from testing instrument. Many would not think of this not coming from the area of enterprise technology, where people recognize the many ways that products fail, and the many errors that tests can contain, if there is insufficient testing of the instrumentation. I don’t think those only in the sciences outside of mission critical enterprise and government technology would recognize this as easily either. Testing in technology is not a simple matter, and only certain functional tests are performed which relate to known risks. But there are so few people utilizing these tests that I don’t believe that the risks are known, and if anyone was going to discover what the risks were, or ask someone about what they might be, I would likely be the kind of consultant needed to provide that support. This is a field of rare professionals with little support. This is unlike the use of tests like the Stanford Binet or Wechseler, where there is plenty of usage and mutual community support, although I think there are many issues with these tests too, but that discussion will have to wait for a later edition of this book. All I will say now is that the problems with the popular standard tests are inherited in the higher range tests, and then the higher range tests have insurmountable problems on their own at present making them risky and untrustworthy.
Older versions of the SAT have similar claim to IQ correlation at a high range. Tests like these have significant investment behind them, and many years of usage as standardized tests. People trust them enough to place them on resumé’s and applications, to the effect that there is tracing of their personal history involved, and one might argue There is very little risk of being seriously manipulated by such tests that have such significant support. They’ve been adopted by major universities that have an interest in protecting the records of their students, and these universities would not be interested in storing data that may involve a strong manipulative component. Another issue with rare IQ tests is if there are only a few test examiners they may not be reputable. It may be a sign of lack of reputability.
Dr. Xavier Jouve, mentioned by Mr. Jacobsen may have some credibility for tests for which he’s decided to utilize, tests not accepted by Mega and Prometheus, but that is not something I know about him not being a researcher of his work. My objections to tests in the category he utilizes, extended ceiling tests perhaps in the heritage of the Stanford Binet V, or experimental tests made by a small circle of researchers or individuals applying, it relate to concerns I see as foundational and would cause me to not want to become another Dr. Xavier Jouve myself, independently testing others without the support network of the APA fully backing my psychometric scoring of real people, although he may be very credible. I don’t trust attempts from individual psychologists and psychometitors who work alone or in isolation, although I value their studies and research. Standardization is important for individual health, as we’ll see, particularly as it relates to security and trustworthiness for self-application, for self-summarizing one’s mind. Those taking high range tests will greatly want to employ and share the score they receive if it is over the test maximums of the standard Stanford-Binet and Wechseler tests, but they are more dubious. It is natural for someone who obtains a higher score to want it to supersede other test scores that are more trustworthy that are lower. When we discuss “home grown” test for the ultra intelligent ranges, we’ll see that the same propensity exists for evermore dubious tests, until the most dubious is arrived at: fake tests made by individuals for themselves.
“How could such a thing exist?” you might ask. We’ll see shortly.
Returning to experimental examiners like Dr. Xavier Jouve, without using his name causing him further trouble. Other risks must be noted. There are other issues with such endeavors. As a rule, there is little professional acceptance of these tests that validate their authenticity, and there could be only little support from psychological associations. That is reputation risking for the association, any who choose to support, and examiners. It is important to not that most Psychologists are not psychometitors, so it’s not as though the total pool of psychologists is part of this community. Who is going to risk their reputation for independent examiners? If there is little support, why would the examiner risk their reputation standing alone(is)?
There is also the question of the size of the customer base. What is the total number of patient-customers of these high range tests that have such rarity in the population? What group is going to work to support his risks of working with less standards for fewer patients? What are his risks and what does the insurance consist of?
These independent examiners I would suspect have less earning potential. Less earning potential is related to crediblity too, for in medicine, those who do really well realy might be the very best doctors. One has to think over the probabilities that independent examiners are fringe with less earning potential, having found niche work to perform to have an income. This may seem like it is inapplicable but on the smallest scale of the profession of test-design and application, we have the amature test designer, adn these are the most dubious. Some have customers like Mr. Paul Cooijmans, but earning potential is lower than for professional psychometric exams. Just above this may be the average independent examiner.
Health record requirements exist regardless of scale and popularity of tests. If there are fewer customers quality diminishes. Funding sources have less cause to provide funds. With too few people in the highest range, test takers are assured to be minimal, for that range. There is still a need of sufficient testing of test administration and not the test, and if there are few to administrated there is a poverty of data. The issue of having too few super intelligent people to need these tests makes me feel more confident that there is not a large enough customer base to support a quality product. The test is a product of instrumentation, like a medical device. It’s like thinking that a luxurious new version of the iPhone with extended capabilities overcoming science could exist from a few customers and not millions. The iPhone simply doesn’t exist without market expectations. The lack of other people needing such tests makes me feel plenty confident about the untrustworthiness of the tests, which would be less than amazing products, with less product testing of all kinds.
This is very different from the other tests discussed earlier, the one’s I’ve taken, and have been exposed to, that everyone knows and uses. It does not appears that school systems accept use of these tests thinking them non-standard. This problem of having no standardization, being experimental, having a lack of norming for real rank ordering with the population, little to no adoption, and low support from major organizations really does completely diminish the value of these tests. One becomes an individual experiment. Some examiners in the High Intelligence community who created their test entirely independently, in such a way as to be very strange and idiosyncratic, like the tests of Paul Cooijmans, not demeaning Mr. Cooijmans, but honestly commenting on their truly idiosyncratic nature. I spoke with him and received a test for review, considered taking it, and decided it was risky. They are interesting and he is an independent experimentor attempting to help people self-elucidate, but I did not want to become an experiment regarding both the validity of the test and health records. I remember recommending to him one potential software tool for tracking his tests so they didn’t slip out for distribution. There are few protections so these tests potentially can be shared to others, who might be informed of scores. I belive this is a concern for tests just as idiosyncratic for being independently developed by the Mega Society. Paul Cooijmans runs the Giga Society.
Being very serious, I can make tests too, and probably very good ones. I don’t think it can be successful however, for ethical application to others, even if to an extent it is for fun. Being a [guide of startups for executives, who want their technology to be tested, avoid risks, and protect their health, I wouldn’t even start considering the digital security needs relating to health records.
The independent test creators in the High IQ community are certainly not having their tests examined by ethical committees.
It creates a health risk to take these tests, and risk to records, and risks to one’s own credibility, for deciding to believe results that cannot be validated, that were created and provided by an individual with vested interests. People who are assigned a score too high may really believe their scores, and this would impact their lives in strange and pervasive ways. The individual motive of wanting to have research that has useful and truthful results, even if the results really are not useful or truthful, is already a known risk in the sciences. One must eventually find support from peers and from institutions to have credibility, not only with papers that are published resulting from research, but more especially for anything resulting in what would require ethical committee approval for ongoing research with human participants. In my experience in Psychology, test designs involving human participants require approval in advance, and disclosures need to be made to anyone involved, including disclosures about the possible inapplicability of results. I had to be aware of committe requirements in planning experimental designs at the University of Maryland and participated as a volunteer in tests on perception, that required disclosures to me. Creating a psychological exam that will be used by people over many years, is effectively including them in a long term social-psychological study, and very definitely would invoke the involvement of an ethical committee if created in a university context before it could be administered to volunteers. In a university context, it may be possible to apply for and gain approval from an ethical committee to conduct research on experimental tests, with hopes of eventually publishing them for more general use in the larger population. But I think those efforts would be instantly thwarted by inability to actually get sufficient research done, because after all, one is attempting to measure the high range, and some are trying to measure to the millionth percentil or rarer. Can one even obtain participants, at the university, using the student population, who score at the levels that are interesting? How does one broaden such studies, to a number of universities, to gain more participants? Now consider, further, that one must definitely devote one’s career to make such an enterprise successful. Has any Psychologist had success doing this, and is there any promising research on this front, to have a test finally standardized for this purpose? It appears to me that the scarcity of participants makes this an unreasonable expectation.
Let us transition to considering who is creating these tests as we prepare for the final question concerning scam artists and fraud. Many of these tests are not created in a university context, with volunteers, after approvals from an ethical committee. These test creators are operating outside of any system of checks and balances on quality of research, and on the ethics of continuing with a completed test!
These test creators seem to be those who might be in the immeasurable range, looking for more ways to find self-understanding, and may simply have interest too, in explaining intelligence itself and how it scales. Producing tests is like producing games, and in a way, like producing works of art, so again, I don’t want to completely diminish efforts made by independent researchers working with small groups of customer-participants. But those who are in the immeasurable range should be aware of the unethicality of these practices as it relates to health records, at least under the ethical codes existing in academic research and medical practice, and I find it surprising they would persist in making some of the tests that result in certifications and society admissions. There are huge risks. Some of these tests have not yet been connected with Psychology, and Health Records, and need for validities to be establish, protecting the minds of those who are scored and their relations. It appers once this comes under scrutiny these test preparers would need to stop and since Mega only utilizes tests like these, that are “homegrown” I can imagine this would be a threat to their continuity, unless of course they opt for a test like the MAT for acceptance, like the Prometheus society. Risk mitigation may be a cause of this selection by this society.
In my experience in the high IQ societies, there are still obviously poor motives for inventing and taking “homegrown” tests, outside the context of the Psychological sciences, making them mostly untrustworthy:
- There is a motivation to create and lead societies on the basis of these tests, self-made, that are “higher societies”, for presentation of profound giftedness to its members and the public.
- There is a motivation to perpetuate societies that seem to have higher authority, and protect these already created tests that were used for admission.
- There is a motivation to protect one’s investment in having taken a dubious test created by an individual.
- There is a motivation to protect one’s investement having made a test.
- There is a motivation to self-validate using these tests. Meaning test creators use these tests on themselves to pretend they’ve been proven they are the smartest, and that they are legitimate “leaders” of the entire community. Originators of societies can get away without ever having been tested, particularly if the tests were made by them, and have unexpected answers that are not those they intended. Making a test is not taking a test.
- At the very worst, there is also the motivation to provide tests that simply inflate scores because one has not scored well on anything else, or well enough to create self-satisfaction.
There is a very unfortunate result of these observations. The first is that there are very incredible obstacles to overcome to arrive at a serious test, following the steps required in the sciences, in an academic environment. What are the costs involved in a startup business wanting to arrive at a final test to find a solution for the immeasurably intelligent? It would be more costly than for an equivalent of the Stanford-Binet! Because it is more complex and not less! Unless some ethics are sacrificed, and that too is an interesting topic: to create a test that too few will utilize may require cost reductions that result in bypassing moral standards. This may explain why there is little work being performed on intelligence for the highest range, and why independent “homegrown test” creators exist, partly, and the necessity of bypassing ethics in order to do any of the work. Professional ethics is definitely bypassed in good quantity, even if there are justifications. But what then are the justifications?
I believe individual test creators are very likely to have research that does not lead to a completed test, allowed to be administered at a cost, by psychologists. Were the test creation experimental processes transparently shared for creation of homegrown tests like Mega’s Titan test? Were the tests circulated for peer review? Are there answers to questions on these tests really?
Another issue is that every test maker who is not utilizing an experimental design to arrive at an intelligence test will be unable to demonstrate that they do not have any of the above listed motives. By doing it outside of the sciences one is creating a product that definitely has not had ethical committee backing, or peer review/support.
Issues of utility and not only ethics relate to these tests:
- Very few people hit the ceiling of IQ tests and could want to take additional tests to learn more.
- The tests created cannot establish a rank order with the general population, who is going to be compared with the “test victor”.
- Anyone who uses such a test to “improve their rank” has openly exhibited self-deception, and a motive to deceive others. We have seen that such a test could only be produced in a university setting with huge numbers of participants, otherwise it’s not as trustworthy, which means one cannot well trust self-application, but that is an objective.
- The most intelligent should be the most aware of these limitations, and yet illustrate their self-deception by trusting such tests.
The people who hope to benefit from these tests then illustrate cognitive biases for ultimately believing the results. Notice they would have no such error, in simply stating they do not know their IQs because of the limitations of the trusted standard tests! Worse still, many may not have takent the standard tests.
There is feel in the High IQ communities that have a cross section of individuals from all societies that some in the highest societies would have failed the Mensa test. If one fails the Mensa test, does worse than expected on the Stanford-Binet, the Wechseler, Cattell, Raven, or Woodcock Johnson, one can still take more tests. But that doesn’t mean they already know they are not immeasurable on those tests. Instead they can bypass their knowledge of their true scores and take ever more dubious tests until they are in some society that is above all the others. But as I say in miscellaneous parts of this interview, their conversation is often low quality, which is the cause for suspecting they simply are not of the giftedness level for any society.
There is a credibility to Mensa that is often overlooked. It really does seem as though the membership is more consistently reputable.
It may be that some test creators, who are researchers within the discipline of Psychology, may have fewer motivations to do anything that is not completely in the interests of science, and may exhibit a genuine desire for obtaining accurate psychometrics. I also implicitly agree, that there is a plain scaling problem in measuring intelligence, and that since one has already scaled the difficulty of subtest scores on standardized tests, one can obviously scale them further until a diminishing pool of people can respond with correct answers. As I stated, the MAT appears to be doing this fairly well. The problem is one cannot rank order them in a trusted way without overcoming difficult norming requirements required to combine the populations of the upper and lower ranges with success.
The ceiling problem exists, because once one has gotten all answers on a test, there is a clear feeling that one could go further. Meaning one is certainly smarter than one has been measured to be. However, knowing that this scaling problem exists, and knowing that there is a definite point in which problems would be too complex for me to solve, does not imply that, scaling it on my own, creating my own test, will reveal where others would fail, across the ceiling, so that I can score myself and them with a new FSIQ, higher than that provided by other tests.
The intuition that this scaling can be continued is what I think drives some to create tests and to persist even with experimental research limitations that doom them.
Every score coming from these tests involve some commitment to a rank-order that is not trustworthy. To take these tests and believe the results, often coming from a single person with no training in psychology, has a very bad effect on the test taker, who believes the number represents a summary of their mental capacity.
“I’ve used a test created by an individual to summarize my entire mind, or my entire cognitive ability.”
One is vastly more safe taking standardized tests with lower ceilings, and committing to remaining content with not knowing how far one could go beyond the ceiling. This is because there are very few bad motives in these tests, and they are well established and standardized, and believing one’s scores is not an act of self-deception. At the higher ranges, it appears there is always an element of self-deception. Again, this is what the Prometheus society seeks to avoid, by taking a totally standardized test as its only one for admission, from academia, the only place where the test could be normed. This is an extremely great difference than having a society creator make a test on their own. However the MAT suffers from the aforementioned defects, and since it is the only test accepted by the society I think their are flaws regarding the veracity of other societies like Mega.
Moving along, it should be noted that certain socieites like Mensa, Intertel, and Triple Nine Society all have a similar admissions list regarding tests. This indicates an agreement as to what is valuable, and there are far more tests to consider than those I discussed, by my interest is to discuss what is most critica in a way that covers most cases. Prometheus society uses only one test, that is also accepted by each of these other societies. But it only accepts one, while the others accept many. This is strange. Furthemore it is not like the tests of independent creators and Dr. Xavier Jouve, or older tests like the Stanford Binet LM.This makes the society a bit strange, and a bit verbal, because the MAT is only a verbal test. Pitting Prometheus with Mega, Mega is now strange for not accepting the Miller Analogies Test, which at least has repuation from a third party, and academic institutional backing. It made its own “homegrown” tests, makign it more obscure than old tests or Dr. Xavier Jouve’s category of experimental tests with low usage (again not knowing much about Dr. Jouve.
The lack of agreement between the smartest regarding tests, their adoption of differing tests without accepting others, indicates to me confusion in the supposed upper echelons, and I believe there are risks for taking an array of separate tests on those who are already immeasurably intelligent to have an admission that is of dubious consequence, with uncertain conclusions.
As one increases the requisite intelligence to join a society, one finds that one is less and less convinced about veracity, and issues related to potential scamming behavior increase. In Mega, one is providing scores to someone who is unlike a trusted psychologist, to the organiation that made it, with uncertainty as to the trustworthiness of scores, and meanwhile, the next level society down, Prometheus, is using a test that scores to 8 standard deviations, a number that noone can achieve, covering both the 5th and 6th deviations. There appears to be confusion in these societies and they appears to be examples of societies unable to really select an appropriate high range test that has the qualities of the more trusted tests like the Stanford-Binet and Wechseler. An each do not accept tests like that from Dr. Xavier Jouve, or experimental independent psychometric test creators.
Moreover, the Mega Society has selected pattern recognition tests, more mathematical, whereas Prometheus has selected a verbal test. Together they would perhaps have something of balance like a normal IQ test, testing both domains, but instead they go one way or the other.
I have explored the potential of taking alternative tests for getting a more accurate prediction of my range, having the issue of not knowing my true intelligence from attaining ceiling scores on more established IQ tests, on portions that are both culture-fair, and portions that are not culture-fair, that correspond directly in content to those tests created for the highest ranges. For example, the Mega test was created by Mr. Ronald Hoefflin, with reliance on culture fair properties that involve pattern recognition, mathematical abilities relating to visuospatial manipulation of geometric objects and the like, areas that I score maximally on standard IQ tests. As a child I scored maximally, and did again as an adult. Similarly, the Miller Analogies Test focuses on vocabulary, which relates to a subtest, again, that I scored maximally (untestable vocabulary). Each test resembles tests I have scored at 99.89% on a well-normed standardized IQ subtest. But why split-brain test taking between two societies just to understand both verbal and visual IQ. I’m supposed to trust that each is good enough for both, but people who score maximally on matrix reasoning are notexpected to score maximally on vocabulary and vice versa. There is risk of testing excessively to join a society in which each is deficient in one of the two domains, while I’m not.
I reached out to Mr. Hoefflin once checking to see if the Titan Test was still scored, and he responded briefly, paraphrasing, that it was “available”. I chose not to take this test due to risks mentioned throughout, but recently wondered, if he might accept answers as correct, without actually scoring them. This is not faulting Mr. Hoefflin ignorantly–instead, it is just something one must consider before taking such a test. Prometheus’s process does not have this extremely serious issue. It really is possible that some of these tests have many answers to questions created by individuals, like in educational instruction, where questions prompt unexpected results by the most gifted. Not knowing if the answer is correct or not, a teacher, or a scorer of an untimed test, would realize the time required to confirm the answer. In the profound range, on an independently made test, and unexpected answer may really prove that the test creator didn’t know the answer to the question and perhaps never will. If that is the case, they may be admitted into the society for self-protection. Consider in complex mathematics, someone like Kurt Gödel, creator of Gödel’s Incompleteness Theorem, just thinks “I proved it right”, then a hundred or two years later it is discovered, it was wrong. This means the mathematical formulae creator creating a puzzle to be sorted out by others, would never know even with an extra lifetime that it was wrong. Likewise, someone like myself, might create an impossible matrix reasoning puzzle for the immeasurable range, with an expected score. Then I discover it is either out of everyone’s range and the answer is unknown really due to an error, or I get an answer that is unexpected, that is the true answer, that I may not understand. To understand it, it may take many years. Do I admit that? Since this is a problem for the immeasurable range, only the immeasurable debate about it, like mathematicians, for years or centuries until a resolution is found. But the mathematical questions are open and international, whereas the psychometric puzzles are closed. For this reason I think it likely tests go unscored but people are admitted, to conceal that answers are unknown, sometimes. If that is not the case, there is risk that it could occur.
Folks such as myself really have no good options for establishing IQ. We can rely on an academic test that is not culture fair like the Miller Analogies test, or else resort to tests created by some very intelligent members of the high IQ Societies, and some scam artists. These tests, from my examination, having very good familiarity with reliable tests, and university training to be a psychologist, are untrustworthy; and not only for statistical limitations on norming, but much worse, the strong desire of various personalities to “prove” that they are the smartest, using alternative tests that they or their friends created:
“I’ll create the test that says I score high, or a friend will.”
The smaller and the more focused the test, the more likely it is that this test is forfinding alternative paths into societies, or that the tests will realate to subtests of the Stanford Binet on one side or other of the verbal/visual split, making FSIQ summary unreliable.
Entire societies and their credibility hinge on whether or not their tests that are used for admission really do test what they claim to test. Even societies like Mega, that draw interest and some belief in authenticity from having interesting members, hinge on tests made by individual people; these tests appear difficult, but the appearance of difficultly is not enough to create a trustworthy rank order. Tests created by individual people, arguably should not have a name that creates the impression that it is standardized, and not the creation of one person, who again, makes the test, controls its publication, and controls the scoring, like “Titan Test”, which still seems obnoxious in it’s attempt to sound “ultra”. And very unprofessional. Mega is interesting, but I don’t believe it to be entirely authentic; and every member who was admitted using the test provided is aware of this. Reading the publications, one finds them to be occasionally of very high quality, but the character of the writing is not more complex than what finds in mathematical publications. One cannot read the journal Noesis and conclude that the test used for Mega or the group itself is authentic.
Then there is the question as to the utility of the informal method of analysing writings for significance and velocity of ideation, and for that as well see in subsequent questions, it appears the entire community produces less than I do alone. It appears to me that there is a lopsidedness in the comparison of these member’s avowed IQ and the quality of the materials produced, that is great enough to consider that these socieities have problems relating to admissions.If admissions it relates to testing.
Mega is more convincing than many other groups that exist peripherally to the more trusted societies that are more obviously serving people’s motives at pretense, like the Genius groups of Iakovos Koukas, although I don’t believe regarding the deviation scores of the members who gained admittance using any of the societie’s entrance tests. There is an oddly huge number of IQ societies, and most that are not well-known are obviously not genuine. They float tests that, again, were created by individuals who do not seem to have the experience or training to create psychological exams. Tests come from individuals who appear to have a vested interest in demonstrating they are the very smartest, and that the societies they create, are authentic enough for people to join. The result however, is that people are deceived as to their own intelligence, taking false tests, and believe themselves to be amidst other people who are highly intelligent. Instead, these groups are filled with a pretender support network, where no individual appears to be authentic, and all trust, believe-in, and rely on, tests created by random people who believe themselves to be “genius” and the like. These groups can be quite humorous and are obviously false, and their tests humorous as well. They create their own certifications with scores that are well outside of the range of what is testable by real tests, and then they quickly demonstrate they can hardly maintain an intellectual conversation. This is the sense in which I think these peripheral societies are less trustworthy than Mega, but Mega is also not trustworthy in my estimation.
There is risk of giving over to a random test constructor some claim to health information. It is unusual to trust a test creator with scoring of tests. Rather, one would expect it to be scored by trained psychometricians/psychologists who adopted the test. One puts oneself at some real risk taking an unstandardized test. One may receive results that one might believe, despite their having little validity. It appears some who have taken false tests have come to really believe their intelligence is at the very highest range; short conversations with some of these people instantly reveals deficiencies rather than high giftedness.
In short, I do not believe that any test for the upper range can be trusted, and those who reach maximum scores, like myself, have to content themselves with having an untestable intelligence that can’t be scored by the trustworthy tests. Thinking carefully about what is safe, it doesn’t make sense to me to risk taking alternative tests. The MAT test and other tests of verbal slant and culture-unfairness create risks as one is willing to accept perhaps an unbalanced IQ-correlate score that is higher. The meaningfulness is questionable and the MAT itself does not provide IQ scores. Instead, if one wants an IQ score, one is better off choosing:
“The most healthy and trusted tests.”
That’s what I’ve done and where I score immeasurably, and I will share my personal test details in my next edition of this book.
It is my strong recommendation that people focus on taking test batteries or individual trusted tests, that are standardized, that might have a lower ceiling; but a ceiling that is still high and trusted. If one scores high enough, one may achieve immeasurability and this is certainly adequate.
A large issue I see in the future for those societies that have not opted to do the same, is that they will have to demonstrate in artifacts and productions, a non-lopsidedness to their avowed scores that they received from these tests that are not as trustworthy. Reading through these questions, and considering that this entire book was written in twelve days, it is confusing how some could never complete a book at all, or write articles that never approach the qualities of academic journals, containing fine examples at complexity at good rates, from people who are not immeasurably gifted like the presnt author. These publications are certainly better than what is provided by Noesis, although there are things I like about Noesis too. More is stated on this as it relates to Mr. Jacobsen’s question concerning articles preferred from Noesis and elsewhere.
Before moving on, I’m aware of certain omissions in coverage, that I will cover for the next print edition of this book, but I hope the reader is aware that the next version will cover much that I know is missing, particularly relating to statistics and test coverage. Since this is an interview that has respondents who provided much less material, in the amount of a few pages versus several hundred, I hope the reader understands the contribution provided, and the velocity of significane provided, taking only twelve days, for more than 5/6ths of the content, at a quality that will exceed all earlier interviews.
This is in support of the entire community, and the public that needs reliable information.
This is the last answer finished in this interview, and wanting to finish, preserve the data regarding the twelve days of work, I know many inclusions I want to make specifically for this question. Two things will be in the next edition: A process for deciding what tests to take undervarious conditions similar to what I provide for large organizations, handling risk in complex circumstance, that in this case will relate to a combination of want of self-understanding admist all the tests that exist and health and security concerns that have been overlooked in the comunities, and 2) The debunking of the upper scale intelligence tests on scientific and mathematical grounds, and not only grounds appropriate for readers expecting interview-like responses, and 3) a relationship between these and the more formalized version of the informal process of assessing conversation using velocity of significance and ideation.
I expect readers in the community will know already from knowing my earlier contributions that this will be likely a debunking of the upper range high IQ communities on medical and safety grounds, and grounds relating to the assessment of productions and artifacts establishing life history and velocity of significance.
Scott Douglas Jacobsen:
Question 2: How can individuals read more on matters of IQ, societies, intelligence, and the like, outside of the references in the article?
Learning More About Intelligent People, and How they are Measured, and Intelligence Itself
The audience of this question is composed of members outside the community. I noticed that my style of answering this question, which was prepared earlier is very different than my style answering the other questions. I considered rewriting this answer, but instead, in keeping with the objective of exhibiting how styles change from the same person speaking to others in differing ranges, I have chosen to retain the style. Fascinatingly, the audience really may be the same on reflection, just my thoughts about who might want the answers, changed my idea about who I would direct my attention. This reduced the velocity of significance of ideas. The topic subject matter is also less of interest to me personally causing it to be reduced further. In this way a person of high intelligence can switch modes of communication that can conceal the extent of the intelligence had. However, this answer should be of good interest to those within the intelligence community and I expect good ideas may result from reading along.
I commented in the article cited by Mr. Jacobsen that an effective method for gaining an understanding of highly intelligent people is watching them speak and communicate, and that it would be especially interesting to move away from watching figures who are well known, to view those who are not well-known. Fame is unrelated to the expression of extreme intelligence in humans, and very few attain any sort of fame, or interest, meaning popularity, from others who are unlike them. I suggested in my brief blog post mentioned by Mr. Jacobsen that one good approach would be to watch YouTube videos of people who are apparently very smart. On that page there are suggestions of people to watch, and that list in retrospect is not a great one, and is certainly not long enough, being originally a quick posting on a site I no longer trust called Quora (very low quality), but one can simply search for people who are famous for being extremely productive in academics, philosophy, and science, and watch them speak. Some people who were acknowledged in this interview would be worth researching.
Rather than pursuing individuals for interviews or their time discussing topics of mutual interest, it may be helpful to find them all in one place, gathering for their annual meetups and so forth. I rarely attend Mensa meetups, or meetups of other groups, but I have, and they were mostly rewarding. People in this community are welcoming, for the most part, of people outside of the community, when they are allowed to be there, because of course, their loving spouses and family members cannot be expected to fall in the same IQ range. Thus they will bring family members to events, and so not only will you find opportunities for talking with very smart people, you will have chances for talking with their significant others, and family members, who might have very interesting things to say about their highly intelligent family member(s). These people would be pleasant company too, creating a good and comfortable environment if one is wanting to know more but is not a member of the societies themselves. Family members who arrived at events with intelligence community members may be excluded from certain events, but may still spend time nearby, simply waiting for them to finish with their meetings. This would create chances to meet people with their families in contexts peripheral to the gatherings. Even if there are rules excluding family members from main events, it should be possible to join for journalistic reasons, to observe. These communities may be interested in having a public relations or media presence. Either way there are opportunities like this for getting better access to large groups of people to meet directly. There is a huge requirement though, related to the purpose of the article, and that is: be kind and respectful, and try not to present any kind of risk to these important people, who include many examples of the best minds that exist in our human populations.
This would give some ideas about how people in the societies are in person, but even still, quite a lot is not revealed about who highly intelligent people are, and how they perform under demanding circumstances, like those conditions created by proctored IQ testing. Seeing them speak together would provide listening opportunities to discover how they talk naturally with each other, with more excitement and chances to express how they really think internally.
I remember my first IQ tests from when I was a child clearly. The reader, if schooled in a district that tests for giftedness, might have some recollections of these early tests were like too, and perhaps what they enjoyed or disliked about those tests. I think it likely that a very large population of people have a good understanding already of IQ and what IQ testing consists of, and some idea about range, and aptitudes. I recall vividly my experience doing specific tests around manipulating triangles and other shapes to construct larger shapes, with a psychometrician or psychologist, in my elementary school, in a private room. I also recall having to estimate the number of blocks that were within larger configurations of blocks at different orientations. I recall these tests, I believe, because I was quite good at them. Taking IQ tests in my thirties, many years later, I excelled at these same tests again, obtaining ceiling scores. I can obtain ceiling scores on other tests too, and in general, I do not have a fearful relationship with intelligence testing or intelligence as a result. I would suggest that if a reader has some fear around IQ tests, it may relate to some recollection at having a difficult time on IQ tests, which are intended to be difficult, and are for most of the population. This experience may typify test taking recollections.
In order to get additional confirmation about one’s suspected IQ range, it may be useful to again take proctored examinations as an adult. One could take the Mensa test and get a feel for range, but I would more seriously suggest taking a proctored examination with a psychologist. These can be somewhat costly, but they give the in person experience of test selection by the psychologist (you can take these tests more than once, after a period of some years elapse, and they would not be precisely the same test, although the tests would feel quite similar). Professional, hand-written score reports are provided by the psychologist too, and these are quite nice to include as part of one’s historical documents and autobiography. However, while making these suggestions, I do have some reservations, thinking the reader probably really does already have a good idea of range, and probably, if there isn’t a specific personal reason to get confirmation, the primary reason for taking a test would have to be research on intelligence, or out of some interest in psychology, psychometrics and the like. Since the question above was put forth without any indication about personal self-interest in obtaining confirming scores, I suggest this in-person test taking as a very good method for gaining a better understanding of intelligence as a part of research interests.
When I was being trained to become a Psychologist in my university studies, I also obtained text books that provided a very good historical context for the development of IQ tests, and also a good foundation about the validity of the tests, and information about how they are proctored and performed by licensed psychologists who are able to obtain the published tests, and instructions for scoring. If one gets far enough along in studies of Psychology, one can obtain the tests themselves. I did not pursue this, but through the combination of reading on how tests are administered, and taking the tests with Psychologists who shared more information, I gained a very complete understanding. But beyond this, it is possible to “get the keys to the tests” and administer the Stanford Binet and other tests to those who want to know more. This is a very valuable pursuit, because it can reveal cognitive impairments in children, and also reveal high giftedness in those who will need special education. When I obtained my tests as an adult, it appeared that the primary customers of psychologists providing the tests were to confirm definite strengths and weaknesses in children who were already known to parents and adults to have special difficulties or special strengths. There seemed to be less of an interest in parents with kids who seemed to be well balanced and have normal functioning. Functioning in the normal range there seems to be less of a need for special attention, and therefore perhaps less motivation to take costly tests with a psychologist, after having already been tested by a psychologist, perhaps for free, in the public or private education systems.
If one wants to know more, one can reach out to me as well, since I have considerable experience, all life long, with the experience of being gifted in the high range, of having training to become a Psychologist within this personal context, of having had a number of tests longitudinally over my lifespan, and of having experience with others in person, and in forums, who are extremely intelligent, in the very highest ranges of intelligence. One can reach me in the correspondence section below. I would be enthusiastic to hear from readers interested, whoever they might be, so long as they are kind and well-intentioned. I take communication very seriously these days having security concerns, and if there are any keywords indicating risks, or the slightest meanings that could be taken the wrong way, I may immediately delete it rather than absorb the information. So take some care in any correspondence that you might want to send.
Scott Douglas Jacobsen:
Question 3: What seem like the common reasons for the exceptionally intelligent and profoundly intelligent finding inappropriate employment or remaining unemployed/underemployed?
Two Pathways in Life, and the Desire to Blend Them
Note: This question was also answered at a much earlier time, about two years earlier, and exhibits a very different writing style that seemed somewhat foreign to my present disposition.
The primary pathway decision faced by those are highly intelligent appears to be the following, which is how I experienced it:
- “Is it worth the time and frustration to attain organizational success, given I do not value it all that much?”
- “Is it worth the time and risks to pursue a high income, for the leisure attained, or is it more valuable to choose a modest income, easily achieved, and commit?”
- “How can I conserve energy for thinking about what I would like to think about, and for doing what I would like to do?”
On all three points above, most will grapple, and perhaps not find a long-term solution. People have a hard time choosing to save over having material comforts for long periods of time. Some have a lot of trouble identifying what they care about as far as their use of minds and time; whereas, some highly intelligent people will choose the easiest of jobs to automate their performance, freeing their mind completely for their own thoughts, which might have nothing at all to do with work, while others observing their behavior, wonder why they might not opt for materials and organizational success? These people have not been able to disentangle that what one values doing with one’s mind is separate from pleasing others socially, and gaining materials that others find attractive.
Appropriate employment for the talented and especially gifted seems to be a greater rarity than being especially talented or gifted, and realizing this early, many have to make choices to settle into jobs and professions that simply do not provide stimulation and opportunities that might be entirely satisfying. It is an odd thing though, to think that organizations should have occupations fulfilling such a need. Employment is not for those being employed, except for in rare circumstances. Occupations, instead, fulfill market opportunities, closely related to desired extractions by a business owner. A business owner is aware of some opportunity for earning money, and creates an organizational structure, most often starting with himself/herself, which effectively gains money on their effort. Seeing more market opportunity, and understanding the desirability of having leisure time, the owners hire employees that they pay less for similar efforts. Organizations grow indefinitely on this pyramid pathway, with the ownership amassing wealth obtained from increasing market opportunity and an increase of employees who are paid less than what they would prefer. This discrepancy in value, is what incentivizes the ownership to continue to grow and improve their business, likely with much fewer hours of contribution, but greater contribution using mental contributions.
Business owners attain much of what an intelligent person wants for themselves, and likely the business owner is intelligent, but most often not as intelligent as someone in the highest ranges. People outside the highest ranges recognize the intelligence of business owners, particularly owners of businesses that are extremely desirable and high earning, and identify business success with intelligence. However, this is a misidentification. Those who are well positioned with modest intelligence are in a better position, it appears, for this type of success, than those in the highest ranges, who are interested in things like artistic creation, intellectual creations, and simply thinking about things that are not so mundane as business.
It is obvious too, however, that those in the highest ranges would benefit from being business owners, or being employees at the very top of the business, if the business is so well developed, that a special intelligentsia is needed for maintaining it. This occurs in organizations like large software companies, scientific companies, and organizations of government, like NASA. Similar demands, exist, certainly for military organizations, like the Air Force and others, that recruit specifically for gifted people.I was fortunate to find myself moving through businesses and organizations like these as a consultant, later having real work with people in these organizations, while functioning as an executive. However, the people who become employed do not necessarily control the range or extent of their tasks, and even at the top, there may be an expectation of much specialization. So the highest range individual, who wants freedom of mind to connect diverse topics, finds themselves someone well rewarded with respect to income, and yet give up energy and hours to devote themselves to still trivial specialized tasks. From outside, these highly intelligent people may appear quite well off, when in reality they are understimulated and still have few opportunities for maximizing potential. For this reason, these roles can be filled by those who are intelligent but are still not of the very highest intelligence, and these more moderately intelligent people might be more completely fulfilled. The most intelligent would benefit most greatly from the freedoms of being the owners of the business, where wealth might enable them to go beyond their own business to a range of activities that permit higher generality, higher interdisciplinarianism, and the like, or simply time to pursue activities that free the mind. Since I planned effectively, and had and/or created opportunities that were headed in a direction consistent with these wants of the most intelligent people, I finally realized a career that included business ownership just like this.
It appears that these business ownership opportunities are still not for all those who are highly intelligent, and appears somewhat uninteresting. There is also competition with those who might already have wealth, might already inherit the businesses, might already be in a position of understanding very closely the market opportunities that creates competitive advantages even over those who are more highly intelligent. One does not necessarily have market feel and experience, and incentive to succeed when there is a market opportunity which might be invisible except for those who are more intimately and socially involved. Involvement then can provide better opportunity than raw intelligence.
The highly intelligent then, opt for pursuing whatever is satisfying to their own minds, and have to gauge the risks associated with trying to find a career that produces income, sacrificing time and energy, that could be used for thinking freely instead.
I personally prefer one of two types of employment:
- Doing something that is so easy that it requires no thinking, but is in a healthful environment; or
- Doing something that is so complicated nobody else can do it, that is rewarding in income. Such a job is a rarity, and I was fortunate to find myself given opportunities after expending much time, at much risk, just seeing if such opportunities would ever come into existence.
At present, I run my own organization of one, as a Consultant guiding large organizations. This is a reiteration for those who read through, but I will repeat it very briefly for those who may have been specifically in this question but not others, or the introduction. I was able to build such a company, only after having attained Chief Architect at Adobe Systems, and Solutions Consultant, a role similar to that performed by Edward Snowden. One might think, being Chief Architect would be satisfying, and it was for a period, because I could work on tasks that were very high complexity. However, there was also the reality of limitations of colleagues and employees that could not necessarily execute in complex ways, if not for their own limitations (there were many talented colleagues), for inability to organize projects effectively. I found myself still unable to retain my intellectual property as well, and unable to eradicate manipulative tendencies of managers who wanted to shift roles, and do so without increasing income more than what was scheduled. Meaning my talents, which were obvious to all, could not create rewards in any way like if I was a business owner. So I left this job and discovered, that in business I had a much better level of control of my income, which was higher, and allowed for the total ownership of my own productions.
Even in my own business, the opportunities from clients dictate the complexity of what I’m doing. However, I can advance my business in any way I like as I perform this work, alongside, owning all my own contributions. If I wanted to work less I could work less. I could travel as desired. I ended up getting all that I wanted very precisely, exactly obtaining what I set out to obtain. However, I did not know that it would turn out this way, and many fortuitous circumstances made it possible. Having had a very good and elevated role at this software company enabled me to culminate my career as far as titles are concerned, and my subject matter expertise was desired by those in my network I already knew, and companies who had needs from an elevated consultant. Later I won many customers who were totally separate from the earlier business relationships and was able to further advance my income and range of work activities.
So I am of the few who were able to combine personal mental goals with social-organizational, academic, and income advancement goals, that are sometimes quite opposite to one’s interests, sacrificing time and energy, with uncertain results. I recognize that my mental needs, are quite unlike those of many of the colleagues I have ever had, who seem more settled and less restless in their roles, even when they change little, because they seem to have a suitable level of complexity still, even in specialization, and an income level that, under social-comparison, appears good to themselves and those who might pay attention. They are able to gain material benefits that they think are enough for their personal goals, and stay in their roles for very long periods of time.
This is not satisfying to someone like myself, who needs to combine things further, have greater complexity, and greater control over income, locale, etc… What I wanted I communicated to a manager once, who upon reading my desires, must have felt quite powerless to support me. I wanted greater “Idea Execution” potential and used that exact phrase in an email and “sync up” conversation. I’m chronically having ideas that nobody finds interesting, that have high value, and are highly interdisciplinarian. They are general and abstract, and hard to communicate, and require money to bring to fruition. These goals relate to personal interests, that I’ve had since I was a teenager; goals I would have sacrificed my career for, if I could have achieved them otherwise.
I wanted:
- Time and energy to have important ideas and to be able to write about those ideas.
- Later I wanted resources, especially monetary resources, and ownership of my own IP, to record those ideas into actual writing, and software.
- Later I wanted those ideas to connect to business objectives supporting a range of industries, and to be able to deploy those ideas at those businesses and industries, in an organization changing way, supporting other people and their goals.
- I wanted to connect these writings with sufficient accomplishments to create authority, creating publishing pursuasiveness, and was able to do so in connecting it to my lofty titles I’ve had in doing business with customers, and academically, after many challenges, finally obtaining a number of degrees, and gaining admission at Harvard University, a well-enough-respected organization to make book publishing likely.
Highly intelligent people want to be able to communicate those thoughts they have that seem to be greatly valuable. As a teenager I was having many ideas I thought could change the world for the better. At that time, I knew there was a very long path ahead for having any credibility that would cause a readership to have any interest at all. I knew even my own family would not read my writings, and my friends would not either. If they would not read my writing, who would? Who would care to read anything I had to think about? These were thoughts I had in my early twenties that I recorded in a journal kept that I still have archived, called Rational Times.
These are other reasons why I felt the need to have organizational and academic attainments. They had to be enough to create attention or authority. Accomplishments in the High Intelligence societies was a completely unexpected phenomena, but that occurred along the way too, after reconfirming my intelligence once again, working as a software architect at the Food Network (more precisely, Scripps Networks, whose television channels were later taken on by Discovery, including HGTV, Travel Channel, etc… other businesses I also supported). While performing a complex role, I thought to myself, “Why have I not joined Mensa already?” Impressed at my seeming ability to do my job at an increasingly challenging level, at a pace that seemed to exceed colleagues, who I already respected for their abilities, I thought to confirm what I learned in youth. This was also catalyzed by an experience with the book Outliers as I mentioned earlier. I confirmed again my abilities and joined Mensa, and began interacting there and in a number of other groups. While simply socializing, while doing my work in software, and in academia, I attained a level of respect, and attention, and many personal relationships, which further developed some notoriety in the High IQ societies. Now I’m quite well recognized in the High IQ community, and inso doing, developed at least some interested readership.
Today I have potential for a healthy writing career, apart from writing I do in my work for various organizations in a number of industries (making it more challenging, and more interesting, having very different customers with different needs, in different places, even international locations, like New Zealand). I have the authority requisite, and some niche readership, and an online Book and Journal with underlying technology I own, having written the software from scratch and from various pieces freely available (which is normal in creating software products), for artistic and communication satisfaction.
These productions feed my business value as well, so I was able to connect the value of my personal writings, and underlying software, to the creations of large organizations. For example, I have recently designed the technology for AbbVie, Inc’s international website, which was deployed without issue, and connected my ideas shared with that organization, with ideas developed in my personal life and in my business. This business has many television commercials now for their various pharmaceutical products, which usually have other brand names. The company name is identifiable at the end of the commercials. If you watch television you’ll notice the frequency of the commercials, because of the wide range of drugs they sell that are communicated using totally separate commercials.
There is an odd synthesis to my career, which is satisfying beyond what I thought possible, but very close to what I would most want, and it appears to be precisely what would be rewarding to others in the very highest ranges of intelligence. In fact, communicating with many of them, I become aware of their journeys, which do resemble my own. I very much wish that many who are looking for the same fulfillment are able to find it. While I find myself admiring the person who would eschew organizational attainment for purely mental attainment, and productions outside of existing organizational structures, and academia, I hope they are able to have income attainment and experiences that are able to broaden their communication potential. Because that is what is often wanted—they want to be able to share what is in their minds, that they might be unable to share without additional power to do so.
I believe the level of preparation required for someone in the very high range of intelligence to share what they would like to share from their minds, to be quite extraordinary. There is no doubt to me that many others in the community would like to have the organizational, academic, and software/writing IP ownership that I have, relating to my writings. Without having gone through decades of preparations, which may not be fortuitous, I do think smaller outlets at communicating to a perhaps receptive audience is still very desirable. Articles like that from Grady Towers, and Hank Pfeffer, listed in my references discussed earlier, are unlikely to have a wide readership, or interest, even being shared through channels like Mega and Prometheus. However, they could and did connect with audiences who can benefit directly, and I too have benefited from their works.
In the high intelligence society journals, works seems to have a lack of academic developments that would dissuade some readers from having a prolonged interest, and this again is part of what I mean about the extraordinary requirements of sharing one’s mind, at this level. One seems to need to exceed what can be produced academically, somehow. This can be achieved, with some notice, if the writing has an informality that is greatly offset by the power of what is stated. Some writers seem to be able to pull this off, but it may go unnoticed by those who might not be able to discern, since the mind-matching I mentioned is required for appraising significance more fully. What they would like to say is quite remarkable, and they communicate extremely effectively and powerfully. But they lack very definitely in having the academic and career undergrowth, that would seem to provide more formal authority to their writings, and I believe they would want this for themselves, if they could have it. But alas, academic life is slow and torturous, and their minds being too fast, cannot sometimes take the frustrations associated. Again this relates to the velocity of significance and ideation they experience. I experienced this myself and many times needed breaks in college, for becoming disillusioned in the supposed objectives of higher education, easily obtained independently, but without papers.
There is a concept I became acquainted with somewhat recently, stated to be ikigai, and trusting that’s real Japanese, relay it here to the reader. This word relates to the fulfillment of joining interests in such a way that time is spent doing things that seem more holistic. Work, talent, interest, and gainful employment are related to one another. Such a term might lead the reader to think there is no special interest connecting, then, to high giftedness, but that is not the case. Rather, the size of the effort at synthesizing diverse talents and interests seems to be at stake. “How do I combine all my talents into one and into gainful employment?”, considering Hank Pfeffer’s article, it seems a somewhat silly pursuit. This is why I think certain forms of employment, again, seem like they are not appropriate to certain people. “Will this organization create ikigai from all my interests?” appears the absurdist of questions, particularly given the objectives of owners. People like myself worked in youth believing it to be impossible to make ikigai occur in a satisfying way. “It is impossible and so I will give up on this?” appears a result of the Terman study for some. I believe it to be very challenging and wonder if perhaps there is a greater ikigai for me in the future, while at the same time, I recognize what I have is something quite out of the ordinary, and I am contented for what I have at the moment, even if it could be better in some ways. I admit it is hard to think it could be better, unless very great riches are in my future. Being retired now though, I’m less concerned even to receive riches preferring to write this to you instead.
I think many of the highly intelligent understand this issue early, and opt for choosing what appears the lowest risk pathway, for preserving energy for doing what one considers to be most valuable.
In my life, having been influenced greatly by the works of various philosophers, who could only make their achievements having very abundant leisure time, I chose to pursue the very greatest income I could attain, while simultaneously devaluing income as having only secondary value. I had an interest in being a hermit on one hand, living alone and in nature, with few needs, and a desire to live in an urban environment, spending freely to enjoy the benefits of restaurants, not cooking, and having a nice apartment cared for by a landlord, so I had nearly no concerns whatsoever in doing mundane tasks. I value doing things with my hands in nature, and I value the benefits of having no needs for doing housework and mechanical tasks, so that I can focus exclusively on mental-academic pursuits, like reading and writing. I noticed though, that one can have all that one values if one has money. Ideally, one can have it without too much toil and self-sacrifice, and those who were born into wealth know the value of having had to do nothing at all to obtain it. Suddenly they have leisure to do anything and everything they want that they value perhaps intrinsically. The high intellect does benefit from being born into wealth, and many famous philosophers and scientists did not need to work incredibly hard to amass a savings providing security.
I was not born into such a scenario and knew, whatever success I might have in organizations, and success in income attainment, or business, would come primarily from myself, although I did have parents who were financially supportive as I was growing to be an independent adult. I would never be able to have a significant savings exclusively coming from my family, and I assumed there would never be an inheritance to wait for, which is something I personally detested as well, wanting instead for my parents to fully enjoy all their savings. My parents would deplete their resources in their interests, and I would have no ongoing connection to their financial wellbeing, ensuring they could enjoy themselves while I would live on my own merits.
So in my early 20’s I strove for financial independence, in a context that was not incredibly favorable.
It was especially unfavorable for a period due to my choice to drop out of High School. I experienced the improbability of advancing in a job I had during the period of not being in school, making 6 dollars an hour, even after being promoted, and recognized that organizational success in academics, and in work, might be the only way I could gain a significant income.
“How easy or accessible is it to earn a high income, in my case? Is this something I value, and want to pursue, to advance my own interests, or are my interests incompatible with such a life? Should I choose a more modest way of living, and do what brings value, giving my worldview, or should I find a way to secure and easier life with surplus money and material resources, to give myself more leisure time for my pursuits?”
I think there is a real dichotomous divide here, and that most people have to make decisions about this in order to secure their well-being at all stages of their lives.
One difference that appears to exist, is the degree of consideration made about this question early in life, versus later. Some appear to drift along, moving from one moment to the next, as if this were not a real question. Some will struggle through business without having a real aptitude for earning. Some will not make a choice between material interests in consumption, and saving funds, and will remain in debt, wanting both and never reconciling desires.
I think those in the very high IQ ranges are more likely to reconcile material interests with what seems to be of genuine value, and make calculations as to the reasonability of attaining a special degree of organizational or financial social success, and high income. Some eschew organizational and financial attainment early, seeing its transitory social value, and seeing the time requirements for building wealth, and simply choose a path that will never produce the awe that one might expect from an exceptional mind that finds fame. These are highly intelligent people who recognize real futility early. “Even if I attain wealth, I know the following will occur [fill in the blank] and I will be unsatisfied.”
Then there is another segment, who recognizes this, and yet sees a very difficult path ahead not pursuing high income. “How will I ever write what I wish to write without the leisure time and energy to do so? How can I spend my time doing mundane work, depleting my energy, only to find at the completion of their workdays, they are having less and less energy, over time, to do anything felt to be valuable?”
Scott Douglas Jacobsen:
Question 4. What was the eventual outcome or the larger conclusions from the Terman Study?
Some Comments on Maladaptation at the High Range
I am not a scholar of the Terman study, but understand that part of the results related to what was called “maladaptive” patterns of behavior, which seemed to occur at a greater rate as one approached the scores of the very most intelligent Termites. The Terman study is quite a long study, with results comprising a number of follow-ups, and for purposes of this response, I’m relying more on the article from Grady Towers, which touches on the same topic, and relies on some conclusions of the other study. There is another topic, from Mr. Michael Ferguson, called The Inappropriately Excluded, and because this article comes to mind, and is also quite well written, I feel I must mention it.
This maladaptive trend relates, again, to the article mentioned above, The Outsiders, and presents a consistent picture, that as one moves along the normal distribution rightwards one finds people increasingly unable to relate to the larger population around them, in ways that are satisfying to themselves, but are not necessarily unsatisfying those they interact with. By this I mean that other people may enjoy speaking with them, but something is missing in the experience to those who are more intelligent. Of course such a phenomenon finds expression wherever people interact, and is not exclusive to any particular environment where one might hope to have rewarding work or rewarding relationships. Seeking environments that offer satisfaction gradually becomes an exercise in futility, and one finally succumbs to a life that is somewhat lonely. Some are fortunate enough to find group membership with others who might be hard to find for issues of geographic distribution of demographics of intelligence, and are able to finally have mutually satisfying interactions. Work environments might not be possible to find, or may have obstacles and hindrances from admission and entry, that are themselves designed for those who fall lower on the spectrum, and may present an unsatisfying situation of having to “hoop jump” along to a satisfying academic career.
“I qualify in every way and yet on paper I do not qualify”
was something I experienced and still experience to this day, wondering if a Ph.d or two, or more, would be worth anything to me, and if years of study to complete a paper dissertation was something valuable given I can easily write papers on par with dissertations, having paid for no Ph.d program, and without having gone through any of the laborious steps to qualify for admissions.
This writing here, again, provides some relationship with the question as to the results of the Terman study, but not being a Terman scholar, and finding this interview a good opportunity to speak for myself, and others who experienced some degree of suffering at the thought of not finding a suitable environment for self-expression, and realization of potential, I thought I’d speak to the ultimate place it leads, which is the feeling of a repulsively slow corporate and academic edifice that strings one along with promises of doctorates and degrees, and good careers, that seem to have little tangible value for being disconnected from concrete accomplishments which flow readily from the mind, but are quite well connected with long and expensive and torturous submissive experiences being a student-customer. One wonders why one cannot read and work in labs without having to spend a decade or more paying for education in indentured servitude at a pace that is for people who are in the normal range and not the extraordinary range.
“I learned this as a child, a teen, again as a young adult, and again I must pay to certify to this, vaguely, over perhaps a decade as a university student, without any consumer controls?”
Such experiences as not being able to express oneself as oneself in a mode appropriate for accelerated learning, leads gradually to a feeling of unfulfillment and the feeling that the world has not situated its institutions or its organizations for such people. Instead they were made for others and one must simply find a way to exist comfortably, perhaps.
Scott Douglas Jacobsen:
Question 5: Why should individuals stick to professional achievements positive for individual authentic self-esteem and the common good rather than a test score?
Testing for Self Understanding, and Focusing on Personal Development
Earlier in my section on my relevant background, I spoke about my history of need for self-affirmation, given my lack of support in youth despite my demonstrated giftedness, to finally confirm my total intellectual capacity. This particular question asks why individuals should stick to professional achievements over test scores. I don’t testing is incompatible with arriving at a more complete scientific self-understanding using tools of measurement. In education feedback on learnings is provided by testing and this is universally supported in our culture, although all can remember limitations in testing from childhood. Instead, I think if we had more tools for measurement, that were better understood, that reductionistically went to our own biology, comprehensively medically, we would want that. I personally would like to have as complete a knowledge as I can of my own body, mind and nervous system, that I can have in a reasonable time, given my intellectual capacities and level of financial and government resources. It makes little sense to me to desire less medical information concerning myself, than more, given we do not have enough medical information about ourselves due to price!
We have seen that some tests have been created for the highly intelligent that are insufficiently medical. We saw that this creates bio-ethical concerns, that partly incriminate these tests, but not the desire to have more tests. The desire for these tests relates to the need to have better self-awareness, and wherever test creators are being honest in their attempts, even alone, to create better measures, there are useful contributions to society. The objective is an expansion to have a better understanding of the mind.
If one has a stroke, degenerative condition, or other medical issue that results in deterioration of function, one might want to know that this deterioration is happening, by testing if any high range cognitive abilities are diminishing. This may lead to a method of correction. Currently, only the regular population can be tested regarding smaller deterioration differences in their neurological health relating to intelligence.Since members of the immeasurable range like myself, are immeasurable, I could have small signs of correctable deterioration without having any method at allto convince doctors that something is wrong.
In this way even certain tests lacking validities contribute to the community, and can provide an ethical justification for work, so long as that does not involve change of intellectual history as to the true motives and intentions. I don’t think that test examiners have thought necessarily about this above paragraph, although now that they would be aware of it, having read this interview, we may hear back that these were the original intentions, particularly if there are no already written artifacts that demonstrate that this intention has been communicated. So this information above can be used rightly or fraudulently.
Most members of the public would benefit from truly accurate information on complete self, and anyone who wants to write an autobiography that contains open and honest information about self, wants to include good quality information that constitutes wisdom.This includes information about the mind which must use description and metrics. One cannot omit tools for measurement that are all we have at present and arrive at wisdom that requires it.
But I think seeking self-knowledge is not incompatible with accomplishments and “doing good” for others, and think instead that wisdom blends the two. Highly significant thinking is synthetic and blends knowledge for application. Problems arise that require knowledge from all sorts of interdisciplinary sources, including that which Socrates would recommend self-understanding. The problem solving that results from this synthesis of knowledge combined with problem solving is creative ideation, and recordings of this creative ideation results in accomplishments. Accomplishments that are of good quality and high velocity of significance and ideation relate to dissertative productions that are very frequent, and should include self-knowledge and probably could not be as valuable if they are inapplicable to one’s own knowledge of one’s mind.
As I stated above regarding my career, education, and productivity, and my software system, my ethical productions for the good are expected to greatly outpace productions of others, with great significance, ideation and novelty. All these personal accomplishments are of high importance not only for being intrinsically rewarding, and for helping others, including animals, but because they create a measurable datum for further confirming profound giftedness and self-understanding I continue to seek for myself, at a diminishing rate as I approach full understanding (actually). In the future there will certainly be automated techniques for evaluating this datum for my intelligence, and can be used to compare my intelligence with the intelligence of others, to expand upon joint-self understanding of minds.
In this way productivity will eventually arise in psychometric test results. People have long stated that life itself is a kind of test, and one does have to put in effort in order to have good results. In this way a life of wise productions will be blended with test taking.
Here I would state that we want both and eventually they will both become part of the same datum.
Scott Douglas Jacobsen:
Question 6: What does a Mensa International membership mean to you?
The Value of the Mensa Membership from My Perspective
There was a quote that I’ll paraphrase from memory, from an African American Astronaut who is a Member of Mensa, who was asked the same question:
“Being a member of Mensa means, to me, that I no longer have to think or talk about how smart I am.”
I have the same view, perhaps for being exposed to his statement, under my interpretation that this creates comforts of self-understanding. One can speak about it if there is value and obviously I have demonstrated the value. For this reason I chose to become a Life Member. It is not the case that I no longer think or write about my intelligence, although my need to prove anything to myself or others has largely vanished. It is done and I no longer need to dwell further on this topic to convince others. I told a recent acquaintance that I did not want to hear any more intelligence related questions from him, because of need to be finished. This article and the perspective above combines to finalize my proof as it relates to comforts of self-understanding.
The second extremely meaningful thing to me about Mensa, and other societies, is the access to extraordinary people, who are not necessarily extraordinary for having attained ephemeral social successes. These are people who one yearns to meet for the sort of mind-matching and communication mentioned above. This is the matching of humor and velocity of significance and ideation. This is a similar mutual benefit that people strive for in academic life, wanting to finally arrive in a collaborative social context for productive dissertative thinking, and nexial business relations, like collaborating with Bill Gates, Jeff Bezos, Steve Jobs, or Elon Musk, naming only a few. Similarly for my desire to work with and combine people like Professors Singer, Tao, Dawkins, and Dennett.
I’ve met valuable people all over, and have come to meet exceptional people quite naturally in my demanding career. But one can simply meet people who are exceptional by joining Mensa. This relates to a mistake my parents made in not introducing me as a child, along with my sister, to Mensans. My brother is also very intelligent and I don’t know his test status, but both he and my parents, and friends, could have expanded our social context to include the highly gifted from the start. I regret that there is a barrier to entry, to get into this group, to talk to certain people, but it is a barrier that is necessary, even if it is arbitrary, for now–that’s until better psychometrics is arrived at and this article has communicated a way to arrive at that. If Mensa is not the group to support expanding inclusiveness on new psychometrics, then other groups will arise, and already many groups of various kinds, work related, school related, or intelligence related do exist to provide a healthy and nurturing social context for children and adults.
I suggest to the reader who might be obstructed from admission (there are people who definitely belong who simply have not gained the paper test scores making it possible to enter), to focus on academic experiences and join groups interested and focused on specific sciences, arts, and experiences, because as soon as you are in these environments, you witness the results of intelligence in beautiful ways, and attention is on quality. When one visits a museum and experiences people interested in museums, quality is apparent. Quality is not always apparent in the high IQ community, and one has to be long exposed to find exceptional people, or exceptional moments, even there, with the exception of meetings in person, which were more consistently rewarding. I mention this to the reader, because genuinely, one finds the same qualities one is hoping for on both pathways, and people are appearing in these groups when they are not appearing in the high IQ societies.
It’s quite a nice experience to witness people’s productions and strengths without having any idea how they would perform being tested, and oftentimes one has no care or concern at all, being quite pleased with the diverse strengths one is witnessing. I don’t know the metrics of my colleagues with whom I collaborated with but that doesn’t stop me from wanting more interraction with them even while I more tightly control my communications to protect my interests and safety.
Scott Douglas Jacobsen:
Question 7: Do you have any particularly favourite articles from Noesis: The Journal of the Mega Society?
Selected Readings of Interest from the Community
I do not read much from the community journals including Noeis, preferring instead to read extensively materials that are often trusted and are covered in course curricula already within academia. This does not mean that there is not much that is of high quality, and I have taken steps to ensure that some specific individuals who have become deceased have had their websites archived and preserved. Expecting that none would care much about the preservation of their writings, which were numerous, I anticipated the eventual erasing of their contents from web servers and blogging applications, that are less safe from protection as library contents. When people die some others only take brief actions to say kind things, but few take actions to preserve their work. One particular deceased individual who was like-minded and very supportive, had his website vanish as expected, and for years now I’ve held his materials waiting to republish them charitably and anonymously. His work has little to do with my own, but I think people need ongoing access to it indefinitely.This relates to my efforts to make certain publications permanent beyond what is currently possible for any document type. I have efforts underway to ensure that publications don’t vanish in geological time, and am aware that will likely not be successful, since the earth is impermanent; but I will am trying to take actions to provide at least a partial solution. This concerns all human information. My work is not deletable presently. Even if my online Book and Journal were attacked, all of it would survive. My own efforts in living autobiography call to mind this effort to preserve the works of other deceased people, but are not specifically about that in my primary motivations that relate to sharing my own mind extensively and accurately. However doing the work with my living autobiography does relate to my desire to see the works of others preserved and communicated correctly, and not only of these members who have passed away, but other historical figures who are highly intelligent whom we are misinformed about via simple advertising and propaganda. Living figures like those in the Acknowledgements will eventually pass away and if I’m living, I will work towards making sure their credibility is preserved in my basic communications. These deceased members of the community were, who are of higher intelligence than the Mensa range, are some of the few who understood the intention of my work, and exhibited comprehension, kindness in communication, and stewardship. Some have provided avenues of publication. I am very happy to have met these people while they were living, which is now. Not all of my contacts of importance to me are mentioned in my Acknowledgements for good cause, because it relates to some of these archiving efforts that need to remain anonymous for a period, and keeping them unacknowledged my not be my long term strategy for protecting their anonymity.
Returning to the point about my preferred reading, typically my chosen materials relate to my personal projects of interest that relate to a number of fields, and have a specificity these days to specific research questions I have. This is the cause of my reading the work of Professor Tao. Outside of my research questions, and in my reading history, I gobble books from preferred authors in which I always find value, like from Professors Singer, Dennett, and Dawkins, but typically my interests are so interrelational that this desire to read their works for personal enjoyment ties well to my research projects. My selected fun reading is always academic and from highly intelligent figures.
Regarding research: I don’t do much of that finding it unnecessary and inappropriate to my mind and for those who are immeasurably intelligent. Instead of using my time reading other works, I spend more time creatively writing and reading my own. I’m not very information seeking already having gotten much of what I required from earlier reading. Like a child I am usually finding deep significance in little facts gleaned from experience, and I synthetically relate these to very large sets of interconnections in my life. Logically analyzing, I know what connects and what doesn’t with a strong sense of reality, and blend it with my own behavior so it results in a new me. A new me as far as growth and healthful neurological brain changes create storage deltas, resulting in obvious day-to-day changes in thought and action. Notice this is required for profound giftedness but is only touched upon by science in a way currently that is not metrically comprehensible in psychometrical tests that don’t cover days, weeks, years and a lifetime of nervous system development. Works like mine do provide new opportunities for measuring this. The measurable change is in the velocity of significance and ideation established in life artifacts figuring into the living autobiography falling within a total earth data and history. The exhibited velocity of significance relates to aging and establishes my own works as having plenty of growth potential for providing value in the new edition of this book, that others might want. As others get older, their significance in thinking improves too, oftentimes, and as long as they can remember being young, their shares may be of more interest than those writers who are mentally younger. The reader may recognize from some history of IQ that the ‘quotient’ part of IQ was mental age over chronological age. One reading this may not think the writer would be 42 years old, and this writing is not that dense. This document can be fed into tools that analyze writers for anticipated age, and using such tools that have at least some usefulness, I anticipate the age calculated would be much older than my actual age. As I age velocity continues and accelerates for significance. In this way I expect new works to be more worthwhile than some earlier works. The new edition of this work will be more significant and meaningful than this first edition.
There are some few readings from the High Intelligence Community that I have been exposed to, that were very interesting during the period of elevated interest from when I first joined various societies, and these have come from figures who wrote on topics that seemed especially relevant to my characteristics, and came from supposed members of the immeasurable range, who are themselves figures I know for certain are intelligent but am uncertain as to their actual psychometrical status. Despite this the articles from these writers had personal influence since the contents do indicate high velocity of significance and ideation, even though they are written in a less academic format. Conversation of high quality does not need to be academically conveyed. Sometimes reading these conversational writings are like learning from like-minded grandmothers and grandfathers who have opted in old age to discontinue the scholastic mode of expression.
If I could afford to carry large textbooks from the highest quality professors I would, too, because those contain the most compressed summaries of current research, and providing linkings to articles that are already prioritized for importance. I don’t like researching much because of the difficulty of actually locating the contents that searching says exists but doesn’t provide oftentimes. This is true even having access to research locations through Harvard University or Google Scholar. Research is often returning unuseful studies as well. Digital copies of articles are also not really part of a sound digital strategy for my particular lifestyle which includes offgrid living with few reasonable energy related strategies for recharging, which relates to global poverty in my studies of The Overlaps of Homelessness and Wealthy Camping which I keep ultralight. Some might say you can have a library in a device, but I have thought about that extensively and only agree in part. Digital books fundamentally fail on user interface design, where books excel. That’s in the flipping through pages and rapid surveying of contents. I like textbooks and large reference materials in my hands and think the Encylopedia Brittanica in a digital format would be a form of torture. For research my preference would be a general equivalency of tenured professorship status and residency, to be near the library’s journal stacks. But as a continual traveller with no residency moving about internationally, I find other ways to find answers.
I have not done much reading from the journal of the Mega Society, but I found at one point one article that was enjoyable, explaining my life to an extent, and that article was entitled The Too Many Aptitudes Problem, written by Hank Pfeffer. This article is an example of one that is not of academic format but one can tell is of good significance, is well considered, and seems to confirm a large amount of experience, in short expression. This is important because the profoundly gifted may choose to never be formally educated, and what they say* may exceed what one can receive in formal academic publications.
An article that has had a greater impact, was the article from Grady Towers, not from Noesis, but from the Prometheus society. This article discusses a topic related to the maladaptivity results of the Terman study, in a similar way to the article written by Michael Ferguson, entitled The Inappropriately Excluded. Each of these articles are are somewhat informal and provide a conveyance of good significance nevertheless, also corroborating diverse experiences I’ve had personally. Each of these articles to an extent influenced my views regarding the wants many people have, like myself, of attaining powerful roles in order to execute upon ideas, and to meet people who are of better quality to collaborate with, for creating a normal work environment, and for balancing this with financial needs or frugality to create that leisure time that is required for pursuing a large assortment of interesting personal projects that are too interdisciplinary usually for including in one’s employment. In my early twenties I had already decided independently that this was worthwhile and planned my life on this basis, achieving better than expected fusion of social and business goals, and work environment because I could create that for myself, and leisure time for more intrinsically rewarding pursuits. Although I knew this well already and executed on my plans successfully, before my plans were totally complete I encountered these works, and they did help. From my conversations with Mr. Ferguson I learned that he was financially successful, traveling and retired, like myself, although he was much more advanced in age. I was fortunate to have the opportunity to chat with him on a variety of topics and had an exchange with him on his blog over the value of skull measurements for estimating intelligence. He has a work on that called H. Macrocephalus. I disagreed with his primary thesis but this caused renewed interest in the need to recognize brain morphology which does relate to cranial capacity, and total brain volume does relate somehow to having opportunity for growing a more comprehensively developed nervous system. This topic already was covered in my studies of Archaeology and Anthropology in college, where the increasing skull size of pre-human and human ancestors is used to estimate relative level of evolutionary development. Without the importance of advancing cranial capacity we would have no cause for thinking other animals with small brains, without observing them, would have lesser learning abilities. One can read my comments within that article starting at the datetime ” Anonymous February 22, 2015 at 6:02 PM“. At the time of my writing this was not anonymous, under my former name”Matt Cavanaugh”, apparently because I deleted the associated Google account used to establish the conversation, that uses a Google technology. We had a long exchange together there and the conversation may be of some interest.
Exposure to these works somewhat created the same confirming experience as with the joining certain High IQ societies, as I learned that others were thinking as I thought, even if not all that I read was entirely new to me.
Also covered in these articles is the likelihood of being purged from work from being overly intelligent, and I experienced the risk of this a number of times, and active plans for it on one occasion. I will discuss this topic at another time in either an expansion of this essay or within my living autobiography
These two articles together are part of what I imagine to be somewhat necessary reading for those who have interest in understanding the minds of folks who belong to these high intelligence societies, or those who belong to no society at all, but are functioning independently in the world without any group support. This is because they have or will face challenges that require them to make decisions like that discussed in the earlier question, that covered the need to either commit to frugality and focusing one one’s own pursuits without necessarily having any acknowledgement or widespread attainment, or to “jump over the hurdles” created by academia and business, using up valuable time, to expand upon one’s freedom to more fully gain notability and power relating to desired goals and achievements.
Scott Douglas Jacobsen:
Question 8: You wrote an interesting article entitled “How Do People With IQs Over 180 Act and Think?” (Cavanaugh, 2018). You bring forward individuals like Richard Feynman, Bertrand Russell, Paul Cooijmans, Grady Towers, and societies such as the Mega Society, the Giga Society, and Mensa International. By and large, these are well-known within the high-IQ communities, of which I sit out in the Oort Cloud with a telescope making notes enjoying the show and sending occasional correspondence for interviews with members of these communities. I am not a formal member of these communities. I have contributed to publications or had positions for which I’m grateful, but no formal legitimate memberships because of no formal test to determine the merit of the matter or deep abiding interest at that level, as some societies do not require test scores, permit second test scores, or utilize, widely, alternative tests with varying degrees of legitimacy in the measurement of the psychological construct of g, general intelligence. As far as I know, those societies with strict mainstream intelligence test requirements are Mensa International and the Triple Nine Society, especially with Mensa International having formal testing sites online or, pre-coronavirus, invigilation stations all over the world. These are important to consider, internationally, even sophisticated frauds exist in the high-IQ communities with a grotesque example in the multi-level marketer (scammer), human trafficker, and cult leader Keith Raniere with the organization NXIVM where he was known as “Vanguard.” To a more on-point tune and as a point of clarification to start us off here today, with Feynman’s declared IQ of 126 (no S.D. mentioned), as stated in the article, what is the factual status of Feynman’s declared IQ in contrast to professional commentary or considerations of his mathematical abilities?
Question 8 Part I: Regarding the portion on Historical figures:
The Suspension of Inquiry Concerning the Intelligence of Historical Figures
Section Introduction
In prior questions we have covered already the topics of stringency of measurement and the process of admissions in various organizations like those of the High Intelligence Community and Colleges. I covered those topics extensively earlier because of awareness of the relationship with this particular question. Also we have covered the value of Mensa, the value of testing for self-understanding, and the topic of the value of focusing one’s efforts on one’s personal development and societal benefits in activities outside of the seeking of self-knowledge of intelligence, and ultimate unknowability of one’s intelligence at present due to incomplete testing in general. It was discussed why not being in Mensa is not necessarily an indicator that one does not have special strengths worth developing, including mental traits that may exceed in quality those of many folks in the High IQ Community. In our next question, we switch to a discussion of Highly Intelligent scammers, so I will only touch on that briefly here where it appears to have relevance and where it seems preparations for that conversation would be beneficial.
The focus on this particular section will be in two parts: first the evaluation of historical figures and their intelligence, and then the evaluation of current day figures. A theme that I want to use to make my view very clear here relates to my desire to support people in their wants to make their lives accurate. I don’t distinguish between living people and the deceased on this point and prefer greatly not to fabricate anything about individuals, such that recordings about them become eventually false or mythical.
Main Answer
Impressive deceased individuals leaving evidence of profound realizations and productive eminence do not leave me with questions about their smartness, although I am concerned about hypothetical scores concocted by those interested, that amount to frivolous fabrications. While confirmed writings, art, diagrams, and mathematical formulae may at some time be adequate for AI or forensic intelligence measuring systems to provide useful rank-ordered scores outside of any testing by a proctored psychologist, I believe existing numbers for notable historical figures were invented and are untrustworthy. This is known simply because intelligence tests did not yet exist.
Online one finds interesting YouTube videos in which figures are ranked with false IQ scores, disrespecting their histories and biographies with inflations. IQ is already very high at a score of 120. In these videos we learn that Goethe had an IQ of well over 200, that Gauss had an IQ in the same vicinity, and that figures like Aristotle, Plato, Newton, Einstein, Sidis, Tesla and many other figures had particular IQs that again, are inflated fabrications that are well over what they need to be to account for their works. The reality is that for each and every historical figure that antedated intelligence scoring living before psychology existed at all (it was combined with Philosophy), there is a misattribution of an IQ score. This simply distorts history, and botches the biographical record. These are figures we care about deeply for their contributions to us and the public is willing to entertaining false summaries about their mental capacities.
It is worth noting that few have read Albert Einstein’s autobiography, which is the last thing he wrote. I read it and it is included in the book “Einstein, Philosopher-Scientist” in the series on the Lives of the Living Philosophers, a series intended to give living eminent figures a chance to write about themselves and respond to critics, while authors were still around. This writing is technical and autobiographical and clarifies certain personal commitments. For example, few recognize he was an Athiest and this is made clear in his own words. He says nothing of course about his own psychometrics because they don’t exist. This means we cannot provide a reasonable score to his intelligence at all, and can only go by his artifacts, which as a rule are incomprehensible to the general population. Assigning him any number jeopardizes his interests, his history, and probably his unspoken last will and testament. My living [last will and testament](http://www.mattanaw.org%5D will be written into my Book and Journal.
We have very little information about all of these figures, even if we think we have a good portion of their corpus of writing, because they cannot be interviewed and do not have living brains to test.
The case is similar with people who are still historical who lived more recently, after modern Psychology came to exist, and after the advent of psychometric testing. In the question Mr. Feynman was asked about, but I would like to refrain even from speaking much about his particular intelligence, because of several reasons. Firstly, if someone were to place in front of me a document that was supposedly a primary source medical artifact, indicating his IQ score, I would not immediately believe it. I would have to do extensive research, that I did not do and would have difficulty doing, to confirm the veracity of the document. False documents are easy to create, as I witnessed in court, and easily one could produce a document to malign Mr. Feynman. Doing real historical investigation, one would definitely have uncertainty about a document indicating a low(ish) score for Mr. Feynman. Historically, a figure like him could have had hateful people who could create a false impression of his abilities using fake documents.
It should be immediately recognized that I am quite ignorant about Mr. Feynman’s medical record. Perhaps he spoke for himself about his purported intelligence score, and in that case, I would give it much more credibility, but even then he has not been tested as extensively as I have with a range of tests, and I have not seen a readout of his subtest results which may indicate extreme giftedness despite a score that might be lower than expected. There are simply too many uncertainties about his scores and a professional of history and psychology should refrain from speculating further given the dearth of reliable information, and admit that the passage of time has converted this topic into the unknowable.
Historical figures can informally be estimated regarding their giftedness by an evaluation of their various productions, and his productions would immediately create prominence in his intelligence even if we decide we don’t care about his scores. The informal method of analysis I recommend in this paper for estimating range of giftedness could be applied somewhat to him if there is sufficient written record covering a range of skills including his physico-mathematical skills, his written skills, and the quality of his verbal communication in his lectures. Mr. Feynman may not score evenly on all these domains, and additionally his breadth of knowledge may be more narrow and specialized than may be appreciated. This may also be true of other historical figures. I think people highly underestimate the breadth of capacity of people who are exceptionally and profoundly gifted, and in order to really appraise any individual for the interrelationships in their brain matter, at a minimum they have to be able to discuss a very large range of topics to see what relationships they come up with, and to estimate the total significance of those relationships. I’ve seen a video on YouTube in which I saw he was extremely significant in his conversation even with a basic interviewer, and had a very strong propensity to powerful ideation, but I still feel there is too much missing to ascribe him an IQ score, or a range, and in any case this is what metrical testing provides. Without a formal psychometric test, I would have to rely on conversation using my informal approach, but in order to do that I have to be speaking or conversing in text with a living person, and if that is not possible, it is forever impossible to do.
Another aspect of the analysis of the intelligence of historical figures, which is applicable also to living figures, is an appraisal of the overall comprehensibility of their productions, which communicate great significance at high velocity. Mathematics, diagrams, programming, architectural designs, blueprints, can all communicate a very great amount of information that may be novel, interesting, comprehensible, but hard for others to understand. Historically, works like Newton’s Philosophiæ Naturalis Principia Mathematica (“Principia”) would have created astonishment for their precision, novelty, and density of thought. This work of Newton’s is not incredibly long, but obviously has profound significance and ingenuity. Its expression is diagrammatic and mathematic, and does not consume much space. If a work can generate very great commentary but not be too long, it is a sign that that work had very great idea-density, and applicability to the real world.
Who can comprehend the work is of interest because after publication, typically only a few people will become interested enough to read it and correspond with the author. These readers themselves may be interested, but it would be true that not all would understand, and of those who do understand, what they understand may not be totally analogical to what the author, like Newton, would think about it. The presumption is that Newton would have had many relationships in mind regarding connections to his work that are not present in the work. Newton, evaluating the minds of others, would use something akin to the informal process of testing for significance and velocity of ideas. If ideas from other correspondence concerning his works are novel, or cover his own ideas, it would indicate a strong mental analogy between himself and the reader. This would likely be a cause for wanting to collaborate.
In one particular area of research and publication in which I’m working, I encountered the works of Bertrand Russell, in his Principia Mathematica, as a Philosophy Undergrad in the early 2000’s, and Gödel’s proof. After being exposed to these documents, many years later, I encountered Donald Knuth’s Art of Computer Programming. My particular work concerns the foundation of mathematics in logic, and a theory of a new architectural foundation of computer systems. This theory would change how we think of mathematics as a whole, how we think of physics and the sciences, how we understand computing, and the relationship to the limitations of computing as it relates to reality. I’ve published some thoughts and comments worth sharing in the intelligence community a number of times, on subtopics that connect somewhat tangentially but interestingly to this theory. An example is on the topic about the final verification of continuous movement, and to what extent movement is discrete, which is verifiable computationally, in comparison to the view that motion is infinitesimally continuous, which is non-computable, and discussed what it means for mathematics. A work I encountered in this effort is Terrence Tao’s Analysis One, which has some anticipations of my efforts on my differing formal proof, and shows some support for Mr. Bertrand Russell’s logical atomism, contra Gödel.
The works of Russell and Whitehead, and Gödel, would be totally incomprehensible to the public, and in my review of materials, I think it true that nobody living understands these documents and their significance. Currently there are thoughts that Kurt Gödel has debunked Russell and Whitehead in various ways, but my reading of commentaries indicate that commenters uniformly do not understand either author’s works! This includes books written for the purpose of explaininghis work! This implies that even those who claim to be reading the documents do not understand the documents. Even in the High Intelligence community, when the topic of Gödel comes up, I see regurgitation about what Gödel has achieved, but close inspection of Gödel’s paper shows academic sloppiness and numerous issues. It’s part of my work and research to bring this to some clarity through my personal interests. I have also noticed, in Analysis I, by Tao, that there may also be some skipping over of Principia Mathematica and Gödel, but an explanation is that that is a paper, that while it appears to me to be doing work on formal proof contra Gödel, is still targeted for instruction of students. Mr. Terrence Tao has IQ scores online listed to be in the 200s, and of course I would apply skepticism to that given the contents of the remainder of this paper, but there is no doubt at all that he is extremely intelligent, and he is repeatedly recognized within the American Mathematical Association in which I’m a member. He has attained professional eminence already, and mathematics itself is a conveyor of significance at high velocity done well, and I’ve personally benefited from his work on Analysis I.
Returning to the point however Gödel’s work is extremely complex and I suspect no one understands it, and I think this is why it stills stands as a work people think has no faults. I’m finding faults and will convey them in the near future, but his work is still brilliant. The point however is that it is conveys so much that it is largely incomprehensible to everyone, and this is due to a combination of his high intelligence and sloppiness; whereas some would say it is only of high intelligence or even greater intelligence. This is untrue.
Russell and Whitehead’s work is very long, and looks like an alien work of logical symbol’s rewriting mathematics up to and past calculus. When I say it is ‘alien’ I mean it is alien even to those who would understand modern formal logic. I once had a scan of all three volumes, but no longer having that, I have to content myself with Principia to ’56, which covers only the first to the 56’s item. The cause of this is truncation is that there is no expectation that anyone will understand any of it, guessing. The entire work is not something I would expect anyone to understand in its entirety.
Many are exposed to the work of Russell and Whitehead in popular formats, especially Russell, since he published nearly or actually 100 volumes, but would not know that Principia Mathematica was very important or as complex as it is in expression. Reading the popular works of either author would lead one to think that they have less capacity in the velocity of significance and ideation than they really have, and that is the importance of surveying an author’s works completely before estimating intelligence. A single omission of Principia Mathematica would lead to a misappraisal.
That these are such complex works indicates certainly profound giftedness and the inability of anyone to understand Gödel, for Gödel’s writing, or for being unable to research the work of Russell that Gödel contradicts and depends on for his proof, shows that the failure to understand them also indicates their profundity. They are certainly profoundly and exceptionally gifted, using the informal approach of the conveyance of significance at high velocity. But also with this is an estimation as to who could comprehend it.
I give these examples because they relate directly to my research and writing interests, but one could also mention other works, and that work mentioned from Donald Knuth is also one that I think is largely unapproachable by anyone. This work figures into my connection of the prior topic with creation of an alternative system’s architecture and required design, and required algorithms. Knuth does not cite Russell, Whitehead, or Gödel in this context but they relate as I see it in my project. Of course those in electrical engineering, logic, mathematics, and computer science would know the relationship if sufficiently advanced.
While we can use this kind of thinking to conclude these authors are extremely and profoundly gifted, assigning them an IQ score includes a motive for fabrication. I would not be inclined to ascribe to any of them IQ scores. Professors Tao and Knuth are both still alive, and each could be measured into the immeasurability range very likely, at least on IQ subtests, if they haven’t already. I’m very disinclined to want to attribute or believe IQ scores on the basis of tests that are not normed appropriately, even those that claim to have statistical methods of extension that make this unnecessary. It is mentioned later that the Prometheus society itself does not do this, and relies on a non-IQ test that has the norming, presumably because that society has the same view on testing I do, except I later criticize the MAT as a test to use on various grounds. I’m content with calling Prof. Tao immeasurable, even if that means I have to say his score is one that is a floor to his actual intelligence, which means he scored high enough to be unknowable regarding his intelligence. But he is alive and could do other kinds of direct neuroscientific testing which I think would be more interesting and better for the trajectory of psychometrics. The section on living figures is next, so I will discuss more there. Regarding the deceased figures Whitehead, Russell, and Gödel, we don’t have psychometric test scores, from my understanding but with no additional research, and there is no way to provide a number. I would refrain from ascribing a number again, because I think that comes from a motive of fabrication.
My response here more generally is that I think we need to suspend judgement on the intelligence of historical figures in which we have insufficient information out of respect for their history. Later, as we are better able to use artifacts, we may be able to estimate by comparison of works, but I think this is still disrespectful since they do not have living brains to test. The dislike we have of intelligence measures will only be removed when we have the ability to test living brains at high accuracy and with great comprehensiveness. This is something we can never do for the deceased. Even if they have an extremely large body of works, there is a difference between those works, and the complexity of function happening over a lifetime. Bertrand Russell himself moved on from writing Principia to writing only popular books in amazing volume. But he may have continued his mathematical thinking all of his life. If we appraise him only by his works, we would be under the impression that his thinking was only in a communicative style that was for everyone else’s comprehension. But his Principia Mathematica is incomprehensible to all!
It is not clear if Principia Mathematica’s contents would provide a pattern that would be easy or hard to the authors, even if it were decided that one would appraise their minds by the very hardest content only. Even if specific contents are used by other author’s like Newton’s Principia for Newton, it would not tell of Newton’s mental endurance.
One is not necessarily exceptionally and profoundly gifted if there is insufficient endurance, and the velocity of significance and ideation should involve great endurance. Once should be able to keep it going easily, indicating this is how one usually is, and not how one is rarely. One is efficient in one’s thinking to stay comfortable. A trait of the immeasurable is that they enjoy thinking about what only appears difficult to others. This book was written in 11 days, and was fun and easy to write.
Here I must gratuitously speak concerning my own endurance because my Book and Journal, that although growing in complexity and inclusiveness in materials, started as a simple blog to have sufficient content to support the design. Now that the design is in place, it can store any and all content I have in my possession. This includes work for my customers that I can redact. It would not have been possible to have as many customers I have had and as many projects, working as an architect and earlier an engineer, becoming finally Chief Architect, and later a trusted executive guiding businesses at the C-Suite level, if I was not at a productivity level that is unreachable for others. I’ve produced many thousands of lines of code in a number of programming languages, many technical design documents, and thousands of pages of presentations and architectural recommendations with sophisticated visual plans. I’ve created entire solutions consisting of distributed machines, including all the back-end and required front-end programming, architectures, deployments and tests. This establishes endurance particularly since it was all done before my current age of 42.
Colleagues have witnessed my live typing at a rate that is impossible not looking at my screen, with results on the display, of a combination of new content and what was heard, from people who were in the same room at the same time, including directors and executives. The rate and endurance of what is produced creates awe and fear in customers. But I’m socially adept so this is kindly managed, and so we typically have great relationships with much mutual respect.
I’ve been the only person invited to provide vendor neutral and agnostic cross-sectional organizational analysis, and have had my results which were often hundreds of pages enacted, with my business and technical stewardship and mentorship being required. These were complex but feasible and did require organizational change, sometimes globally. Some examples include for AbbVie, Petco, Spark New Zealand, and Scripps Networks for FoodNetwork, HGTV, Travel Channel, DiY Channel, etc (Now partly acquired by Discovery Channel), BC Pensions Corporation and Adobe Systems. I welcome readers to view some of my executive corporate recommendations.
A differentiator that exists between myself and Mr. Tao, taking him as an example, is that Mr. Tao produces technical mathematical papers with a rapidity I could not currently match, and may never match. However, my Book and Journal will contain mathematics that is foundational, combining the results of the authors above and providing new mathematics. I have delivered formulae which were required for decision making for customers, a good example being one related to scaling of images in the document scanning application for Fidelity Investments that is of permanent utility, creating a competitive advantage. My book additions will show the velocity of significance of an assortment of content visuospatial, mathematical, verbal and diagrammatic, but it is admitted that currently the mathematical output would not match someone like Prof. Knuth or Mr. Tao. But what is communicated is that what will be shown is an exhibition of the full range of technical talents that can be had, and perhaps artistic creations, time permitting, because the author does have talent in the traditional visual arts, but requires some time to develop upon them. Musicality is also to be included, as I am also extremely talented in both playing instruments and in writing score.
Both Tao and Russell’s extreme productivity indicate they both have and had dissertative thinking. Dissertative thinking means they each have a very high velocity of significance and ideation into writing. Not only were they actively writing many books and papers, their thinking is of the same sort that initially generated their first doctoral theses. The implication is in their own time, doing everyday activities, they are experiencing dense novel thoughts which have characteristics of readiness for rapid dissertation writing, even if they do not write anything. The implication is that each could have many doctorates and not only one. In the upper echelons of intelligence, there are a number of exemplars of people who pursued many degrees and have more than one doctorate. But the cost of achieving the doctorate is a time expenditure that pulls them away from leisurely project work, and one does not need to ask these people if they feel any cost of energy for pursuing the doctorates taking steps within organizations. They would. They and I choose to remain in academia for instrumental reasons, and to gain authority in a field, and an audience. Admittedly there are benefits to remaining in organizations but the slowness of progress is strongly felt, and if one is aware that one could do more work if one could do it entirely independently. It is somewhat akin to reading as much as one likes versus reading only during having a courseload. For people such as these, it would be to their benefit to have a pathway to allow for faster productions of their dissertative thoughts into equivalency dissertations, or allow for articles and books to be converted to equivalency dissertations, to formally be awarded a number of doctorates. If this existed it would not be incompatible with receiving many doctorates even while formally doing work in a Ph.D program. Since I received my G.E.D., I’m aware that equivalencies already do exist for diplomas, and for High School a GED is a substitute for four years of work. This is a very long period of time when one considers what can be accomplished in that time, and a GED can be obtained very quickly. I am aware that an option existed for me to obtain a GED early, and I’m certain I was able to perform in elementary school nearly well enough to obtain it, and would have been able if I engaged in independent study outside of school. Likewise dissertative thinking in young minds could enable one to obtain doctorates while still young. For those who with immeasurable intelligence, this is almost something that is necessary to facilitate the level of growth that would benefit them and society. More interestingly, if one could write a dissertation as a child, one has a doctorate and has finished with grad school, which means they obtained all degrees from nothing to everything. Some might complain that general education is necessary too, but it may be possible to write multiple dissertations to establish the generality of an adult who may not yet be a professional. Additionally, if they obtain a doctorate, it is an indication of existing generality to a degree and existing capacity to attain generality independently. Contrasted with a person closer to the average who obtains an elevated degree, there may be a loss of understanding of earlier studies, and studies unapplied. So it appears that children with minds like Tao or Russell would benefit from having a pathway such as this. I am productive enough to probably write multiple dissertations a year and would have benefited from having an option such as this instead of pursuing many degrees, at very significant time and financial costs.
I need to be clear that I do not have a goal to simply be fast and that’s important. The Book and Journal is an outlet I have for communicating in a rapidity that I already find natural, and this relates to rapidity of thought, in high significance. Customers witnessing my skill would also test to the facile nature of my productivity and to complexity. The facile ability to communicate complexity rapidly is something others utilize to attest to a person’s witnessed intelligence informally already, because there is a perception of endurance and easyness for what is perceived as hard or incomprehensible for others. My typing speed must be witnessed by others as both easy for me but impossible for the rest. It is performed while guiding and steering meetings and conducting questioning of numerous individuals oftentimes.
A cause for the deliberate eclecticness in my publications is to have an extensive set of information in which to understand intelligence, and to exhibit my natural polymathic inclinations. The volume of the publication and the frequency and speed will indicate velocity of significance and demonstrate publication endurance. The publication endurance does not come in the way of having a much more active and fulfilling life of travel and enjoyment than nearly anyone.
In the future, as recorded artifacts are increased for each person in the public in digital format, such that the domain of their interests and breadth of thought includes recordings, in writing, audio and video, that is authenticated, I think we can use an equivalent of the informal process using the concept of significance and velocity of ideas, translated into AI/ML or other real software not pretending to be such, in conjunction with predictive models about what a huge sample of nervous systems are able to produce along lifespans, to finally estimate the intelligence of historical figures, which will soon be us. I intend to produce for my Book and Journal a larger than normally possible sample of data, on myself, to make it more likely to arrive at that scenario. Given the trajectory of science and technology using my experienced judgement as an elite technologist, I think it likely if I live to an age of around 80, some time between now and then, I can use the data in my dataset to actually estimate my IQ further.
While I am quite satisfied with my immeasurable intelligence scores, I would prefer that they are measurable. In the future, I may be willing to have direct measures of my brain while performing work tasks, and while not, to get an overview of my nervous system. I’d like to have a range of visual artifacts, and data sets, that correspond to my actual brain morphology and neurochemistry as it lives. I’ve stated at one point that I would greatly like to have my entire life videotaped in slow motion at maximum fidelity with all information included, including private information, since I’m a highly moral person without a need to protect any personal information. I see myself as a priest and monk of naturalism and moral philosophy and exhibit priestly behavior. This would provide additionally a complete natural record of my biology if it were possible. I don’t think that will be possible but I do think that actual physical testing of my brain to create additional metrics about my intelligence will be usable in conjunction with my writings and productions and we will arrive perhaps at a very comprehensive picture of my own intelligence.
Thinking this way greatly increases our sense of lack of information regarding our own lives, but greater still the lives of historical figures. Being near to Mr. Feynman’s time, it is clear that everyone’s artifacts will be minimal at the time of death, and only later in the future after our deaths, will some few be taking actions like those I’m taking for maximizing communication into writing, to create what is approaching complete self-record. Since I’m writing and not slow motion recording my nervous system and body in-context, I know I will still be very far from what is possible, but the innovativeness of the attempt is still obvious, and the work performed still for the benefit of myself and others, including these historical figures, because finally we can enjoy their works without pretending to know more than what the complete record can convey to us about them.
Here we have a good transition into the discussion of living figures, who overlap with history in that the state of technology hasn’t aided us much in a way that facilitates easy testing. We can see that the massive difference between historical figures and living figures is that they are alive, and we can ask them questions and communicate them, and test their minds more directly as far as they are willing to have them voluntarily tested. They are also voluntarily and unwittingly involuntarily sending their communications through systems that record them, that will later be tested in ways that they did not ask for that will include intelligence testing. Their complete body of productions will include not only their academic writings and writings with sophisticated intent, but all their writings that they have shared with software systems, that software companies will be able to correctly retain and relate to them. Much information will still be lost through inadequate technical designs of systems like those in social media, and in email, and in systems “listening in”, but much will be retained and would be usable for future testing on a much larger set of artifacts.
Understanding the informational needs for more comprehensive understanding of psychometrical measures, I think social media will be found to be a very basic style of communication that will be insufficient for most to be really scored appropriately, and for all who would be tested thusly, I think we should refrain from ascribing an IQ score, and thus protect their histories in the same way that we can protect people who are like us but are deceased.
Answer 8 Part II: The Evaluation of Living Figures
Earlier we talked extensively on limitations of testing and I want to call this to mind as we briefly cover the evaluation of living figures. But I also don’t want to reveal my related answer as it relates to identification of scammers, which is the final question of the interview.
I think it very important to be as honest and truthful descriptively about people as we can, without adding additional speculation. Living people will eventually become historical figures, and the deceased should not have their lives altered from their truth.
I have some writing in preparation regarding other Psychological tests conveying a typology of personality, and my view regarding these tests is that an incredibly detailed case study for any individual, using specifics about behavior and thoughts is more important than a system that falsely categorizes. I think the Myers-Briggs and Big-5 tests are examples that provide some fabrication regarding who someone is in a summary way. I think short sentence and phrased diagnostics create categorizations that may be useful at times, but they also provide a too-brief picture of who someone really is. While there can be value such diagnostics can be very damaging, and cause one to have a wrong idea about one’s own accurate self-description. Consider someone who is misdiagnosed with a personality disorder and comes to believe it.
Likewise ascribing an intelligence score to someone with insufficient testing, or an insufficient range of tests can give the wrong idea, both to the self and to others. What is worse than this, however, is entirely fabricated numbers applied to individuals. I have spoken above about how historical figures are simply given large numbered IQ scores to make them appear especially eminent, but these numbers are not accurate descriptions of people who have not and could not be tested, or have unconfirmed scores if only recently deceased! The same is true for living figures for whom tests do not exist or for whom test scores are unconfirmable. Prominent politicians, gamers, chess-players, authors, artists, actors, writers and others are simply given fabricated scores, often consisting of round numbers that are very high, like 200, and these are obviously false. They distort the people these numbers are applied to, such that our historical record of them, including primary source materials in newspapers and in the media, create incorrect hearsay biographies.
One can note that most living figures who do very well and are very successful rarely tell their intelligence scores because either they do not expect to impress, or they do not want to share for various risks. Typically the former is the case, but High Intelligence scores are not that rare. Extremely profound giftedness is rare. If figures who are famous really have these IQ scores I think ultimately they would want to “show and tell”, but the rarity is so great that it is atypical that any particular famous person would have these scores. When we hear of extremely high intelligence scores they are usually coming from people who are within High IQ communities who are wanting to share with others their special gifts and traits, when they are being honest and not exaggerating to excess. However, I think many exaggerate extravagantly. I think the reader can think of many reasons why people would exaggerate their intelligence, particularly since almost anyone in the public thinks themselves to be special holders of truth somehow.
Those who exaggerate and ascribe to themselves, as living individuals, super great intelligence, have a few serious issues to deal with. Firstly, they must continue to protect their story even if it is false or has serious defects. This is how self-ascription of incorrect scores can result in a very large “pack of lies” that the person will carry through their entire biography. Their IQ score, self applied, creates a “wrong miniature summary description” of their mind and life behavior. If someone tells others they have a score they do not have, then they are certainly falsifying much more than their supposed intelligence. They can make their life inexplicable, such that the only way to correct it is to give the true information, that would correspond cleanly with the actual life lived.
In the evaluation of a living figure’s intelligence we do need as much information as we can have that consists of real artifacts ref: Living Autobiography, that includes demonstration of society membership, and productions that both seem to match up. If there is a lopsidedness in the intelligence demonstrable in lack of productions, then additional information about certain deficiencies apart from intelligence need to be shared in artifact form. Trusted societies like college admissions provide some trustworthy verification of claims, and we can use things like Mensa IDcards, and other membership cards, to get confirmation. Better still are actual test results from the medical and psychological practitioners, that share the actual scores, although it is understood too that this constitutes protected health information. Soon in the future I will be releasing more of my public health information that includes my actual psychometric scores from my psychometricians/psychologists, to go further than most to share society memberships and the actual test results. Anyone who has very high intelligence can eventually share this information to have the life artifacts needed to really corroborate stories, so they can become historical figures, who we really have data about.
For those who are showing tests that don’t indicate immeasurability, but measurable rank ordered FSIQ in the very high range, without statistical norming, from rare tests employing extrapolation, or from tests created by individuals, I think we need to be more cautious. I think it is much more likely, since these are atypical, and unpopular, not often used by psychometricians, that fakes that are rare will still convince. If these tests are shared, how are they cross checked for veracity? Additionally, I think they are largely erroneous. I think it is much better to utilize standardized, highly popular intelligence tests, and be satisfied despite there being an inability to confirm actual maximum performance. These tests will indicate immeasurability but will be well understood and more easily cross-checked.
Coming from the field of Psychology, there is also the risk of deals between psychologists for propping up scores, scoring oneself in a fabricated way very highly, and so on. These practitioners have the actual tests and the test scoring books, and can produce reports that are fake. Psychologists who are colleagues can easily work together to fake tests. This will be more possible to fake if more rare and unconfirmable from sources. Some would be discovered to care so much about inflating their IQ scores that they would use their giftedness to obtain degrees enabling them to pretend the very greatest giftedness of all!
Another issue with the evaluation of tests is that certain authority figures within IQ societies can ask for test results from others for admission, but then utilize the same papers, alter them, and show scores that are inflated for themselves. In this way leaders of certain smaller societies can dupe others into thinking they have incredibly high intelligence, simply from altering already received intelligence tests. I have been asked by a leader of one society to provide my intelligence scores, and in retrospect almost certainly those would have been used for nefarious reasons and potentially would have been utilized to create a false report with inflated scores, using a real test result.
At present it is somewhat insurmountable to totally control for and verify the authenticity of original test documents, but in the meantime checking with the actual psychologist who performed the test, to confirm the test came from them, and confirmation that there are no special relationships between the test taker and the subject, can give us a greater inclination to believe the test could be trusted.
But we can still only partially trust those results, and rely on, what I shared to be a useful method, of using personal productions that should match up with the intelligence of the person making the claim. Productions as I stated is best in an artifact that can be used later, and a total collection of works of production, and life achievements is very useful for comparing against claims. But not all can communicate this way and some are really disabled or have other deficiencies that block communication. For that we can use verbal conversation and interviewing to allow the speaker to demonstrate very great velocity of significance and ideation, which again includes very rapid conveyance of meaning with many connections, and with immediate and frequent problem solves. If one cannot do this oneself for not being quite in the same range of expected intelligence, then one can rely on a third party like myself to have conversation in order to test for it. The larger process that can be used is described more fully in the response to the question regarding scammers later in the interview.
People who are leaders of HighIQ societies that do not have very large numbers of members, will have processes that are likely somewhat inferior to those that are established like Mensa. Leaders of societies also bypass testing itself, simply creating them, and then making requirements for others. For those individuals who are leaders of societies, additional caution must be exercised, and for these people I especially recommend my growing writings on Cults, and the process described later. That someone founds an intelligence society does not mean for certain they are a charlatan, but it does mean that their membership antedates the processes that are created for others. For any member that joins the society later there was a double-standard of demonstration that did not exist for the originator. The originator has many more criteria for demonstration of personal medical artifacts, ethically being in a high authority position, to openly demonstrate they are not a predator. The nicest intelligence society leader can still be a fraud, who capitalized on memberships and false prestige. Moreover, they almost have to exaggerate their IQ scores in order to make it seem they have special authority. There is a strong resemblance to this kind of behavior and being a cult leader, even if nothing highly predatory occurs. However, opportunities will arise for predation once an authority has been established and can last for many decades.
Either way, like with historical figures, I think we are best to think that having the most high quality artifacts, and the best description, should be used to arrive at the most honest possible evaluation, that is not hopeful or wishful that the person being evaluated is to be greater than they really happen to be. Informally, it must also be confirmed that they can convey significance and have a high velocity of ideation, which indicates immediate problem solving and very great interdisciplinarianism, to confirm that their minds can output what they claim their brains are self-communicating internally. If their brains self-communicate great significance, and great ideation internally, it will be conveyed outwardly, or we must be very cautious.
Additionally, living individuals do produce content, unless they are never on social media or are never writing emails. In many conversations I’ve had on social media may responses from peers were very low quality, although some fewer were very high. Low quality postings in the form of memes of low or moderate interest are shared, instead of creative or significant writings, and some share repetitively and predictably the same ideas again and again. People of extremely high intelligence would convey curiosity that exists in want of feedback of novelties, and would write new ideas, using their own sophisticated communication style, in an often high vocabulary, and would think dissertatively often. Here is an example of a spontaneously and rapidly written dissertative posting. Excess repetition indicates stagnation. Very high intelligence results in people who appear older to readers than their actual age, because of very great progress in updates to mentality, and this would be reflected in incredibly sophisticated and mature thought. But living leaders and supposedly profoundly gifted members of societies really sometimes share really basic information again and again, and yet there are many believers that they are as intelligent as they say they are. This includes people who claim over 200 IQs which would be IQs well over the 99.9999 percentile on SD15 tests, which really do not exist. This is why the Prometheus society only accepts the Miller Analogies test to gain members scoring over 4 standard deviations, or the 99.997 percentile. But this test amounts to only a little more than the vocabulary subtest of the SB-V, one of 12 subtests given, which I score at 99.98% maximally. It is considered a standalone with features that are similar to culture fair tests using matrix reasoning, and this I also score 99.89%. But the Miller Analogies test does not contain the visual component that the matrix reasoning test provides, so anyone entering this society may have lopsided intelligence favoring verbal skills, enabling thinkers who are low on visuospatial to enter. That society does not accept any other test due to limitations on testing, and instead of recognizing that folks like myself are immeasurably intelligent, they accept the only test that scores past 4 standard deviations, even though it is only verbal and relates to only one or several subtests primarily. Later I will have to account for claims as to correlation. It cannot even be stated which ones it relates to and cannot defend its relationship to FSIQ. Yet there are societies that defend higheradmissions entries than this, and these are ever more dubious, and some members exhibit probable thoughts rather than improbable ones, and only those, in their social productions. These productions are part of their datum for analyzing their intelligence.
Some may state “It’s unfair to use social media to determine intelligence” but how is anyone to judge if not from conversation flowing from the mind readily? Many of these conversants are slow and offer short statements only, and skip longer conversation with “too long didn’t read” rude responses. Despite their avowed exceptional scores, they fare very poorly in comparison to others who exhibit incredible writing.
Some also may think that their lacks on visuospatial may go unrecognized having incredible verbal skills, but being incredibly strong visuospatially, I can tell from their behavior in person, conversing with them, if they can visualize well or not, and can glean it from the writing over time too. And vice versa from visuospatial to writing.I know at least one person from Prometheus society who exhibits weak rather than strong visuospatial abilities, and believe these would also flaw culture-fair pattern relating test results.
Existing highly intelligent figures should show evidence of immediate creativity in the form of humor too, although here I do expect some variations where some are autistic or have aspergers (some are still self designated with this word). This is very different than those who use canned humor, and repeated humor that seems to come from others, and an overall inability to create a new joke “on the fly”. Rapid and frequent humor generation that is novel and never to be used again is a trait of the profoundly gifted, although I cannot say much as to the extent, as I do not have data concerning it, but can say it is related to kind wit, and social abilities, and this is instrumental for the development of careers, congenial colleague relationships, enjoyable collaborative mutual work, and even if it is not a required component of intelligence, is an expansion of intelligence into talents tying to nervous system moduling that is greater than not having it at all. All my life I’ve been a kind and goofy comedian to put it mildly.
Laziness is also a trait to be used in the evaluation of intelligence, because if one is intensely curious, seeking stimulation to satisfy an extremely active mind, that craves significance and ideation, then it is obvious that feedback loops on such ideation is needed, to progress that ideation. Otherwise the mind under evaluation would never appear older than the age of the mind. The mind would have sufficient feedback to experientially age faster and if one is lazy then one is simply not as curious as one might think one is. There is physical laziness and intellectual laziness, but the two come together in the prodigy.
Scott Douglas Jacobsen:
Question 9: How can individuals protect themselves from scammers?
A Process for Self-Protection from Highly Intelligent or Fraudulent Scammers
Much has been provided in earlier questions and the earlier sections on velocity of significance and ideation, and my relevant background information that can now be used to support the population in detecting true profound giftedness, and con-artists.
Here it is necessary to divide those who would use this process who are at special risk for having less intelligence, than those who have much more, and can cautiously read people for their potential riskiness. Those who are in the former category will certainly need a third party to support in the process, whereas people in the latter category, who on reading find themselves to be like myself, can on their own use this process.
Let’s first begin with how to self-protect if one is in the group who cannot self-trust for not really being intelligent enough to determine in conversation if there is really highly significant and rapid ideation occurring, or if something only seeming that way is being presented.
Those who would need to use this process in the first category extends from those who are handicapped through to those who are still very intelligent, but are not profoundly intelligent. However, a trusted intelligent figure may fill the role of the trusted person anytime someone extremely intelligent is unavailable. Obviously there is a number issue but for now we will review the simple process, understanding there are still limitations.
If I presented a process like that I might like to create, and perhaps will, it would be unusable to others.
Those in this first group would rely on factors not relating to intelligence at all, and this advice could as easily come from a doctor, or someone in a profession that understands the risks of authority, and has an understanding of people that are detectable as dangerous on other grounds than fraudulently claiming very high intelligence. This topic is about self protection from people, not from their ideas; and if someone is not in the same range as those who are incredibly gifted, there is nothing that is complex to be received anyway. However, the result of the process can still be a favorable finding that the highly intelligent person, like me, is a good mentor to almost anyone, conveying pathways to what might be needed to anyone who might need anything.
Firstly, I would share a list of simple questions to consider:
- “Does this person want anything from you?”
- “Does what they want appear to be:
- Financial?”
- Religious?”
- Sexual?”
- Attentional?”
- The reader can then consider, that I wouldn’t want any of those things from anyone, and I am an example of trustworthiness. They can also consider, that if someone wants any of these things, they would be asking for:
- Something valuable to you.
- Something requiring big change potentially.
- Something that could subject you to damage.
- And that what they want
- Isn’t about you as much as getting something.
- Could come from someone else easily.
- “Are they also powerful?”
- “Do they seem especially smart?”
- “Are they especially attractive?”
Some super intelligent people are highly attractive, and I’m highly attractive myself, as can be seen by my photographs I included.
It will be noticed that this short part of the process could easily be developed further, and is simplistic in nature. One simply needs to identify if there are any obvious wants. If you were interacting with me, there is nothing that I want.
If any of these are present then one can move quickly to asking a trusted party to support in thinking about the riskiness of the person, but one has to choose someone who seems powerful in the same ways.
If no trusted person like this is available, the best course of action is to avoid this person, because one could not receive much from this person anyways, for potentially not being in the same thinking range as them. One can ask “What will I learn from Einstein if I can’t read his papers?”
If one can find a trusted person like in the above, and that person is themselves really able to evaluate, then they would evaluate using the method I will describe for those who might be in the same thinking range as the person to be evaluated. For that person the process becomes the same.
It is obvious that there is social awkwardness to using this process, but there is social awkwardness to needing someone to support any deficiency whatsoever. The risk here is that someone will not utilize this process due to the social awkwardness, but it is not possible at this moment to propose a process that cuts through all social awkwardness for all people who might need to use it. Speaking to one’s parents about the quality of a potential date may be useful, but culturally people won’t use it. Instead they simply irrationally engage in risky behaviors and have sex with predatory or unknown copulants over and over. What I am proposing here is actually supposed to cover this case, as a scammer and predator might be a highly intelligent person preying on someone who is deficient by comparison, and cannot make rational decisions for not being able to have sufficient information to know if the person is predatory or not.
It is possible to use this process without actually making any final determination about the person, since really still too little is known. A way to think about this is that someone might be risky and attractive, and acting rationally one should choose to “take a pass” on that person, even while admitting that not enough can be known to socially judge that person, who my actually be quite good, or relatively risk-free, or normal and both risky and not. It’s like having sexual relations with someone before knowing them for a few months.
Now let us consider those who are able to evaluate independently, who would be the same people who would be able to be the trusted support person for avoiding possible scammers.
Those in this group can still utilize the above to their benefit, but can do so easily and quickly and move on to more thorough evaluation. A more challenging consideration that must be considered quickly is:
- “Does it seem like this person wants something now, or does it seem like they will premeditate for something over a longer period?”
This is resolvable by making it possible to have, over time, numerous exposures to further evaluate, but if one is really skilled interpersonally, one should see signs that there is still something wanted, but the person is simply willing to wait for it. This is not something that can be easily described here, since the process requires a natural ability to “size people up” and detect very small behaviors and attributes, and personality traits. If one cannot do this then one may not actually be as adept at evaluating as one thinks. One might know if one is good at this or not if one is skilled in interviews, good at poker without requiring the mathematical component of poker, or if one is great at sales, comedy and persuasion.
If it appears on inspection that this person wants something in time that is in the first set of lists then this person is advisable to be avoided by the other person, if doing it on someone’s behalf, because they will be alone oftentimes without your presence. If it is for you, then you may have reason to wait, being more adept and judicious at re-evaluating, and in subsequent re-evaluations one must be rationally able to exit in an early state, without becoming stuck or too unwilling to become disconnected. The idea here is that early detection of anything that is risky should indicate that one should simply discontinue the connection.
All of the above is decision making in relation to minimizing personal risk that is unrelated to the actual testing of the other person’s intelligence claims. If one uses this well, then one would be able to quickly avoid risks.
Notice that a process like this would make sexual relations with someone who would be evaluated a very risky endeavor because sexual behavior typically results fast in a relationship and not after a period of careful evaluation. I am unwilling to change this process in order to pretend that this behavior can be made rational: it cannot. The result is that with people who might be dangerous sexually are those who must be avoided, at least until an evaluation such as this takes place, and if not, it is unwise. In that case, much human behavior is designated as unwise. If one reads my bio on my choice to be celibate, one will recognize that I have already determined this to be permanently unwise, and I am simply unwilling to spend this time doing these evaluations. Recall that I’ve been married for 20 years and admittedly sex occurred immediately in the beginning. I am unwilling to repeat this behavior now. In any case, I am more adept at determining on my own, for having the intelligence and skills, who might deserve more caution.
Here we can progress to the next step in the process which relates to risks of simply believing and interacting with someone who is a scammer and is fraudulent, regarding their purported intelligence. This portion more clearly relates to all in this article, because few can actually perform an evaluation of their own intelligence and certainly not the intelligence of scammers who really are profoundly talented. If I wasa scammer, or was threatening to people or animals, I’d be one of the most threatening people to ever exist. I could be creating or spreading new diseases, killing without detection, having sex with almost anyone I like, and destroying things with explosives. Fortunately, I’m more like a priest, an educator, a medical doctor, and other caring figures, and I don’t care about my privacy.
For this the evaluator must be able to test conversationally, using perceptions of significance and velocity of ideation. This person must be also willing to ask for evidence and artifacts, like those I provided. Trustworthy artifacts like real membership proof, is all that would likely be received regarding health information like intelligence scores, but these should be as verifiable as possible. One can reach out to organizations and ask if someone is really a member or not, although some may protect a members anonymity. Secondly, one can review artifacts of production. If there are none, that is instantly discrediting for a safety process. As I stated, and exceptionally or profoundly gifted person is overflowing with significance and ideation and is compelled to obtain feedback loops on productions. They should seem like me, writing this book in twelve days. There are some who have obstacles preventing this, but I would instantly reject this person because what is the point of believing their intelligence if they are unproductive? One could move on quickly to someone who is both, who cares about productivity as an additional source of verification, and they would know that already.
Now the evaluator self-protecting or protecting another would have artifacts of production indicating very high giftedness, in large quantity or extreme detail and elegance, and would have society verification. A person who claims very high intelligence based on actual psychometrics knows they need a Mensa membership or other reputable society to back it, else they will have to share the test results directly, which is typically considered private. So they really decided to obtain membership. Otherwise they would behave like a pure academic and not speak about intelligence and would only share what they’ve created. If they are trying to persuade regarding intelligence, then they have a society membership to be as close as they can to proving it. So now the evaluator has both sides of the artifacts required, the evidence regarding psychometrics, and the evidence regarding productions. But this still is not a complete demonstration, it is just a required minimal demonstration, because still this person could have faked their way into societies, and productions may appear to be high quality that are really only somewhat good. This process is about determining exceptional or profound giftedness, and again, it is assumed that the evaluator is capable of evaluation. Otherwise avoidance is advised or another trustworthy person is recommended for consultation.
The evaluator must be somewhat within the range of the person being evaluated, but does not need to be entirely in that range. They need to be intelligent enough to detect that the person is more intelligent than they are and likely much more intelligent, but have the skills required to detect significance and velocity of ideas.
Excessively erratic behavior and thinking can exist in people who are extremely gifted, but people also mellow in time, and so people who are slightly older are expected to be less erratic than say, teenagers who are highly gifted, but this would not be an evaluation about a teenage scam artist! Instead this would be an evaluation of an older person who really could scam and convince about having profound giftedness, and not cause people to think they have a deficiency causing really erratic thinking. Also, the person in question would have the skills to speak in a way that is not too far from your level of thinking, but could if they wanted to and you would likely be able to perceive that, as they go in-and-out of your thinking range.
You yourself, being the evaluator who can do this, like myself, must also be able to engage in highly significant conversation with good ideation velocity, or at least be able to understand ideation as it occurs. Ideation is not a supply of “facts”, which is what is provided if the thinker is not an immediate problem solver but is instead an exhibition of recall. People who “have a lot of facts” are not profoundly gifted, because the profoundly gifted are disinterested in simply sharing facts.
Conversing with this person, one would need to notice the following, and it may take a couple conversations to build comfort depending on personality type, but eventually these would be present:
- Ability to connect widely seemingly disconnected topics, in a way that has clarity.
- Ability to spontaneously generate new ideas that seem to be solving problems that are thought of on “on-the-fly”.
- Should be offering ideas that you would never have thought of, with the strong possibility that no one would have thought of them. Often.
- Thinking should have qualities that resemble academic papers of originality, with a perception of truth, and that if developed, would result in academic success.
- Have a significance that creates a really strong memory of the power and importance of the conversation.
- The thinker should have very strong endurance indicating that the significant thinking and ideation could go on endlessly.
- There should be a perception of obvious differentiation from anyone you ever talked to, because the rarity would be so great as to indicate that this is the only time you will ever talk to someone this intelligent, maybe in your life.
- The exception to this would be within the HighIQ community but this level of giftedness would still feel rare, and to me it feels rare even there.
- It should probably be somewhat threatening in feel, depending on the listener, such that the person would understand “too quickly” all that one might share, and might “figure you out” too fast, maybe in a very short number of days.
- There should be a perception of very great self-sufficiency as if the person will never stop thinking of highly significant things and solutions to problems.
- They seem to predict or anticipate most of what you say, and may seem to already know what you say, even if they didn’t (i.e. their learning is so fast that they have a reaction that is not different from already knowing it, and maybe they immediately fit it to something else or build on it in their response to you).
I would personally expect that all of these are present, and not just one or a few. I know people who exhibit all of these, and not only myself, although as I produce this I think of my own behavior in particular. I would be unable to come up with these points without having myself as the example.
Notice that this person would have all four of the following:
- They would appear to be not risky based on the first process, regarding personal well-being other than potential unveracity of intelligence claims.
- They would have society memberships and would openly share proof.
- They would have productions that are of very good quality.
- They would have all of the qualities above indicating communicative skill showing very high significance in thinking and velocity of problem solving, indicated by “live” novel ideas.
At this point you have a high probability that this person really is as gifted as they say they are, but there is still some probability that they exaggerate somewhat. One can exaggerate from high IQ to a higher one, and they do.
Much more can be said regarding this topic but it is easy to create a lengthy process that is too disinteresting to the reader. This interview will be revised in the future to provide an increasingly easy to use process, with better operationalization of the ideas of significance and velocity. It was stated earlier that what must be used initially has to be informal until there are better techniques, and in this case, probably software solutions. But a profoundly gifted person can play poker well without describing in neuroscientific detail how they win; they can use basic ways to convey how they detect mannerisms that allow them to “read” others, then consistently read them to win predictably over time. Likewise, for those who are able to act as evaluators, who are in the immeasurable range, they can already play the poker game, and these ideas will be understood very naturally and not much more elaboration would be required. They would also know the limitations I mentioned are true and that such an informal method would be necessary, and that later it would be nice to have a technological method. Since they are the people who would fare well in such an evaluation, they will immediately understand and build upon what I shared and may already use such a method without ever having created a process for it.
Before closing I want to also mention that there is an extremely large number of subtle risks and I have to admit I’ve gotten myself into some scammer related situations, once by being less cautious, letting a new person stay in my hotel room at an event, who became dangerously and criminally risky and had to be purged with careful manipulation. There were also several times I provided funds or investments to members who were in either Triple Nine Society, Prometheus, or Mega society, to provide some anonymity, who seem as though they were not entirely honest. This created lingering uncertainties as to whether or not I was really being defrauded. In one case, the funds were small enough at around one thousand dollars and the individual’s stewardship of the community was good enough that I simply considered it not unworthwhile. In another case I gave a much larger amount of funds to someone who seemed only years later to have been under fincancial duress, but this person had an unexpected inheritance, and paid me back with interest. So again, despite uncertainties and some stress about the conditions of the lending, I was eventually paid back according to expectations. I do think this is an example of a lapse however, in considering the simple process above as it relates to future wants and needs that are not immediately obvious on inspection. I also don’t think the process above is any cure for being potentially defrauded, because as in business, there will be times in which an opportunity looks good at first, but later sours. I am happy to relay that these people are typically very kind and helpful people, and seem to have many good relationships, and I don’t see them as an ongoing serious threat to my well-being.
Concluding Response
It appears that significance relates to density of neural material, and that velocity relates to the ability to quickly form new connections and make fast transmissions over the wider denser network of tissue. What is better than the informal approach to evaluating others and oneself using this view, is tying the concepts the actual neuroscientific underpinnings. Those reading this paper in the High Intelligence community I think will largely agree with what is stated in this paper, and will recognize that this does differentiate the highly intelligent from the less intelligent.
The purpose of this paper was to respond to Mr. Jacobsen’s questions relating to verifying various living and deceased figures, detecting scam artists, determining the value of certain psychometric tests, and of course, although it was unstated, to convey why I would be the right person to be answering these questions. For that I provided extensive background information probably greatly exceeding in transparency and detail what other respondents provided, and probably unexpectedly. While unexpected I think it was necessary. Also discussed was the value of Mensa membership, some difficulties faced by people in the high range around employment, and benefits of Mensa membership and personal accomplishments.
In each of these conversations the theme of significance and ideation in communication through speaking and recordings was found to be relevant. I think one would find on reflection, that one would have to raise this in a huge number of topics on intelligence, such that it could be irritating to speak concerning it again and again. I would go so far to say that these concepts can be used to replace the worth “intelligence” and tie it to neuroscience. This attests to the significance of this particular communication. If it is widely applicable for describing intelligent people, understanding their needs, understanding the value of intelligence tests, and is relevant for interpreting productions as profoundly intelligent or not, and is new, and instrumental, then what has been shared is highly general, abstract, has many relationships, and large explanatory power. This document then is a recording utilizing and embodying the concept, and it is expected that it will be novel to many members of the public and IQ communities, even if some postings on the subject from my earlier blog posts do have some early conceptual introductions to this view in a really cursory format.
A topic not incredibly well considered here is creativity. Much confusion exists concerning creativity, but creativity is not incredibly complex from my view. I think it seems complex to those who are not incredibly creative themselves, so wonder somewhat when it really happens, and have fewer examples. Ideation is directly related to learning and problem solving happening in concert, and when one learns as fast as someone in the profoundly gifted range one understands problems immediately and then solves them oftentimes immediately and the result is both a learning and a problem solve. I will say much more on this topic in the future and elsewhere, but here will simply state it really is not that complex in an experiential perspective from one who really is unusually creative. “Quickness of apprehension” is a phrase used for explaining intelligence, which means “minimally understood fast” which is even better if experienced as “learned fast”. If joined with “created a problem from the learning and solved it, or solved it” and it happens often and immediately, this is ideation and learning.
On an intelligence test, one is required to learn the problem that is new on the spot, and solve it on the spot. All intelligence tests provided that are not created by individuals for questionable HighIQ Societies are timed. Even if much time is provided, the psychometrician’s pay rate will time it. And someone is in front of you waiting for your answer. You have to learn the problem in front of you and problem solve it right there. The answer you found is an idea. Sometimes there are no options for answers, and you have to say the answer. That was an idea. Identification of an answer is a selection, but on the way to the selection were many ideas about mental transformations that are new, related to the learnings had immediately.
When speaking to someone to appraise whether they are intelligent or not, there should be some indication that their mind is functioning as if there is an IQ test in front of them, but they are creating the problems and are making the solutions, and they are complex and they are doing it on the spot. This is if the conversation is not purely relaxing but is interesting. In this way even psychometric test taking is related to internal communication in significance and velocity of ideas, because outside the psychometric context the problems are wider life problems with ideas being applicable to those problems, with solutions happening all the time. All life long, from childhood into adulthood, indicating that experience grows faster, and age is happening sooner, even if appearance does not show it. If I am truly myself, I appear very old, and my interests make very little sense to people my age if they hear what they really are. But if they do hear what they really are they hear that they are extremely significant and interconnected, and rely upon a need for extensive problem solving. It appears that the problem set is too large for them to solve themselves in an indefinite lifespan.
A conversation can happen about this immediately, but typically there are several before there is comfort enough to delve into these conversations. I can know if someone is profoundly gifted or not if I ever have that conversation, and since it is so rare, it never really happens.
If one has an intelligence in the immeasurable range one’s intelligence can range from one in a thousand at a minimum, to one in a billion or more. This means I will never meet anyone maybe who has my same intelligence in public. This also is the value of Mensa and other intelligence organizations because one can get satisfyingly close. An objective of mine is to record enough to provide the potential for comprehensive communication to share to others who might understand, whether some exists presently to understand it all, or who might exist in the future. There may be some who I know now who could understand it, but I don’t know enough about these particular people to be sure, and in any case, they have lives and projects of their own that would limit their interest and dedication to reading hundreds of books.
Comforts around conversation between people in the immeasurable range involve sensitivities still. So even if a person met in the High Intelligence community survives the safety evaluator test above, and I know a couple who do, there is still some respect that blocks full expression, and some may have some self-protection needs around ideas to be kept for private development. This means I cannot know if there is a true match in intelligence. So even if I’m with someone who is as intelligent as me, there is this idea that I don’t know if they are, and there is still a perception that I may be smarter than them. I have never been fearful of sharing my ideas, and I have never met anyone who appears to convey more than I can understand. This means effectively I do not know if I have ever or will ever meet anyone who is smarter than I am, and it gives me a feel like I’m the very smartest person who could exist, even if that is not the case.
Finally, I would like to announce something related to a serious omission of this article that is universal in all conversations about intelligence, concerning the absence of forthcomingness about actual intelligence scores from personal medical history. It will take some time and preparation, but I will provide my true psychological reports coming from my psychologists, along with interpretations. This means not only will I have provided the evidence that the process of detecting risks indicates should be provided, including proof of organizational memberships and commensurate productions, I will also include the documents I obtained for admission into the groups. This includes the test scores and psychological case reports resulting from conversation with the psychologists, and their reflections on the process. Their personal encapsulations of the experience administering and scoring the tests will be shared.
Thus I will have provided all the evidence I can of my immeasurable giftedness, and all the relevant context and personal details that went into the testing. There will be nothing additional I would feel could be omitted from my artifacts that one could use for appraising my intelligence. I hope it is useful for an ongoing comparative study of cases of Mr. Jacobsen and others, and I will utilize it to further substantiate level of giftedness in conjunction with my ongoing production of life artifacts, in my Book and Journal.
This way I will not face those same difficulties of other historical figures who are now untestable, and I will not become a living figure who died before sharing sufficient life evidence. It is expected that I would be more trusted than I otherwise could be, despite great openness, ensuring I cannot ever be considered a High Intelligence Charlatan or Scammer. Since I was tested a number of times, since being a small child, there will be no way to claim that these scores have been altered or invented, and I would not be opposed to permitting researchers to talk to psychologists who administered the test, whom I don’t know and are independently credible in their fields.
It will take some time and preparation to consider the risks of sharing these medical documents, because on first consideration, the psychometricians themselves could be at some risk, and the documents themselves could be used as sources for creating similar documents that have all the characteristics of true tests. However, I’m aware that any person can take tests and the contents of those tests they receive would have similar materials that could then be falsified, but judicious consideration is still required. Probably a primary way people fraudulently enter societies, like with college, is to take tests and simply alter the contents in the results thinking at least some college will overlook cross-checking it with test providers. If the admissions process fails to reach out to test providers, can’t make contact, or forgets during a period of waiting, people will be admitted. This would be due to simple admissions forgetfulness or some normal laziness. I think people in organizations often work hard to protect their admissions processes, but to say they never do this is akin to saying employers never mishire.
Interview Query
Original Request
This is the original text from the email request sent by Mr. Scott Douglas Jacobsen. The original email files and correspondence including this text are located below in Correspondence.
This is the interview as I received it, that required some deburring, reordering, and mild rephrasing. Interviews are interesting because they too present risks. These risks can include scams, personal attacks, and traps that could be utilized for personal attacks. While I think the work of Scott Jacobsen appears mostly kind, receiving such requests does require the application of the process mentioned in this text, and caution about personal risks that come after responses to the interview. Also there is risk of responding to a question in which the topic may be applied to the respondent, and where the respondent may be associated negatively with people mentioned. It can’t be known if slander or defamation would result from response, or if the subject matter itself is something the interviewer wants to apply to the interviewed. It could indicate that already the interviewer has taken a position against the target who cannot overcome that negativity even in the response, particularly if that response is short. This lengthy response in book format controls for that potentiality.
Even if for this particular interview, some of this in inapplicable, this information is supportive to others regarding risk of the interview process, and to those who have or might be interviewed in the future.
“Scott Douglas Jacobsen: You wrote an interesting article entitled”How Do People With IQs Over 180 Act and Think?” (Cavanaugh, 2018). You bring forward individuals like Richard Feynman, Bertrand Russell, Paul Cooijmans, Grady Towers, and societies such as the Mega Society, the Giga Society, and Mensa International. By and large, these are well-known within the high-IQ communities, of which I sit out in the Oort Cloud with a telescope making notes enjoying the show and sending occasional correspondence for interviews with members of these communities. I am not a formal member of these communities. I have contributed to publications or had positions for which I’m grateful, but no formal legitimate memberships because of no formal test to determine the merit of the matter or deep abiding interest at that level, as some societies do not require test scores, permit second test scores, or utilize, widely, alternative tests with varying degrees of legitimacy in the measurement of the psychological construct of g, general intelligence. As far as I know, those societies with strict mainstream intelligence test requirements are Mensa International and the Triple Nine Society, especially with Mensa International having formal testing sites online or, pre-coronavirus, invigilation stations all over the world. These are important to consider, internationally, even sophisticated frauds exist in the high-IQ communities with a grotesque example in the multi-level marketer (scammer), human trafficker, and cult leader Keith Raniere with the organization NXIVM where he was known as “Vanguard.” To a more on-point tune and as a point of clarification to start us off here today, with Feynman’s declared IQ of 126 (no S.D. mentioned), as stated in the article, what is the factual status of Feynman’s declared IQ in contrast to professional commentary or considerations of his mathematical abilities?
Jacobsen: Do you have any particularly favourite articles from Noesis: The Journal of the Mega Society?
Jacobsen: What was the eventual outcome or the larger conclusions from the Terman Study?
Jacobsen: What seem like the common reasons for the exceptionally intelligent and profoundly intelligent finding inappropriate employment or remaining unemployed/underemployed?
Jacobsen: The most legitimate intelligence test scores tend to come from comprehensive tests with money and research dumped at them, e.g., the SB and the WAIS. Yet, their ranges are fairly tight around 40/45 to 160/155 on S.D. 15. Some statistical, psychometric techniques, e.g., Rasch-equated, have been employed by individual experimental psychologists, e.g., Dr. Xavier Jouve, to extrapolate for claimed scores at 175 S.D. 15, for example. Alternative tests made by independent test constructors are interesting and vary in quality, though have a far larger quantity. In the article, bluntly, you state, “140,150,160,170,180 are the numbers immediately grasped by liars and exaggerators.” When using alternative tests, fake names or pseudonyms, or more than the first test attempt to claim a score at 140, 150, 160, 170, and 180, what are first thoughts coming to mind to you?
Jacobsen: How can individuals protect themselves from scammers?
Jacobsen: Why should individuals stick to professional achievements positive for individual authentic self- esteem and the common good rather than test score?
Jacobsen: What does a Mensa International membership mean to you?
Jacobsen: How can individuals read more on matters of IQ, societies, intelligence, and the like, outside of the references in the article?
Numbered Format with Minor Edits
This is the translation/paraphrasing of the above original block formatted group of questions used above. These are the questions I utilized directly in the course of answering questions. They are organized numerically and the order was updated to enable related answering of more similar topics. I have also deburred these questions to ensure unambiguously positive intent.
- Question 1. The most legitimate intelligence test scores tend to come from comprehensive tests with money and research dumped at them, e.g., the SB and the WAIS. Yet, their ranges are fairly tight around 40/45 to 160/155 on S.D. 15. Some statistical, psychometric techniques, e.g., Rasch-equated, have been employed by individual experimental psychologists, e.g., Dr. Xavier Jouve, to extrapolate for claimed scores at 175 S.D. 15, for example. Alternative tests made by independent test constructors are interesting and vary in quality, though have a far larger quantity. In the article, bluntly, you state, “140,150,160,170,180 are the numbers immediately grasped by liars and exaggerators.” When using alternative tests, or more than the first test attempt to claim a score at 140, 150, 160, 170, and 180, what are first thoughts coming to mind to you?
- Question 2. How can individuals read more on matters of IQ, societies, intelligence, and the like, outside of the references in the article?
- Question 3. What seem like the common reasons for the exceptionally intelligent and profoundly intelligent finding inappropriate employment or remaining unemployed/underemployed?
- Question 4. What was the eventual outcome or the larger conclusions from the Terman Study?
- Question 5. Why should individuals stick to professional achievements positive for individual authentic self-esteem and the common good rather than test score?
- Question 6. What does a Mensa International membership mean to you?
- Question 7. Do you have any particularly favourite articles from Noesis: The Journal of the Mega Society?
- Question 8. You wrote an interesting article entitled “How Do People With IQs Over 180 Act and Think?” (Cavanaugh, 2018). You bring forward individuals like Richard Feynman, Bertrand Russell, Paul Cooijmans, Grady Towers, and societies such as the Mega Society, the Giga Society, and Mensa International. By and large, these are well-known within the high-IQ communities, of which I sit out in the Oort Cloud with a telescope making notes enjoying the show and sending occasional correspondence for interviews with members of these communities. I am not a formal member of these communities. I have contributed to publications or had positions for which I’m grateful, but no formal legitimate memberships because of no formal test to determine the merit of the matter or deep abiding interest at that level, as some societies do not require test scores, permit second test scores, or utilize, widely, alternative tests with varying degrees of legitimacy in the measurement of the psychological construct of g, general intelligence. As far as I know, those societies with strict mainstream intelligence test requirements are Mensa International and the Triple Nine Society, especially with Mensa International having formal testing sites online or, pre-coronavirus, invigilation stations all over the world. These are important to consider, internationally, even sophisticated frauds exist in the high-IQ communities with a grotesque example in the multi-level marketer (scammer), human trafficker, and cult leader Keith Raniere with the organization NXIVM where he was known as “Vanguard.” To a more on-point tune and as a point of clarification to start us off here today, with Feynman’s declared IQ of 126 (no S.D. mentioned), as stated in the article, what is the factual status of Feynman’s declared IQ in contrast to professional commentary or considerations of his mathematical abilities?
- Question 9. How can individuals protect themselves from scammers?
Below is the original correspondence between Mr. Jacobsen and myself, via my Harvard University mailbox.
Correspondence
My Contact Details:
Christopher Matthew Cavanaugh, “Mattanaw”:
- cmcavanaugh@g.harvard.edu,
- CC: mattanaw@mattanaw.com,
- CC: christopher.matthew.cavanaugh@member.mensa.org
Admissions Pages of Mentioned Societies
These admissions pages were challenged and supported partially and differentially for each of the society mentioned in the article.
- Mensa
- Intertel
- Triple Nine Society
- Volant of Elysian Trust
- Prometheus Society
- Mega Society
- Olympiq Society
Bibliography
Cavanaugh, C. (2018). How Do People With IQs Over 180 Act and Think? Book and Journal of Mattanaw. Playntext. Retrieved from: http://www.mattanaw.com/how-do-people-with-iqs-over-180-act-and-think.html
Dawkins, R. (2006). The God Delusion. Bantam Press.
Dennet, D. (2006). Breaking the Spell. Viking. Einstein, A. (1998). Albert Einstein: Philosopher-Scientist. Open Court. [Editor left out to prevent editor wrapped citations]
Ferguson, M. (2014). H. Macrocephalus. Retrieved from: http://michaelwferguson.blogspot.com/p/blog-page_9997.html?m=1
Ferguson, M. (2015). The Inappropriately Excluded. Retrieved from: http://michaelwferguson.blogspot.com/p/the-inappropriately-excluded-by-michael.html?m=1
Gödel, K. (1962). On Formerly Undecided Propositions of Principia Mathematica and Related Systems. Dover
Knuth, D. (1968). The Art of Computer Programming. Addison-Wesley.
Herrnstein & C. Murray. (1994). The Bell Curve: Intelligence and Class Structure in American Life. Free Press.
Mattanaw. (2003). Rational Times. Book and Journal of Mattanaw. Plaintext. Retrieved From: http://www.mattanaw.org/rational-times.html
Mattanaw. (2006). Personal Form. Book and Journal of Mattanaw. Plaintext. Retrieved From: http://www.mattanaw.org/mattanaws-personal-form.html
Mattanaw. (2017). The Burden of Having Too Many Ideas. Book and Journal of Mattanaw. Plaintext. Retrieved From: http://www.mattanaw.com/the-burden-of-having-too-many-ideas.html
Mattanaw. (2021). The Significance of Ideas and Creativity. Book and Journal of Mattanaw. Plaintext. Retrieved From: http://www.mattanaw.com/christopher-matthew-cavanaugh-thoughtstream.htm?fbclid=IwAR2GhTeEVpiCxCTcTI3dOaPQdEFds0l3-t0ZsPS8lPTCl0jRgmfWD3VIuFM#the-significance-of-ideas-and-creativity
Mattanaw. (2022). *Writing Shares, Recording of Recordings. Book and Journal of Mattanaw. Playntext. Retrieved from: http://www.mattanaw.com/site-history-archive.html
Mattanaw. (2022). Bio and Stats. Book and Journal of Mattanaw. Playntext. Retrieved From: http://www.mattanaw.com/bio-and-stats.html
Mattanaw. (2022). Living Autobiography. Book and Journal of Mattanaw. Playntext. Retrieved From: http://www.mattanaw.com/living-autobiography.html
Mattanaw. (2023). Abandoning Equality. Unpublished Book Manuscript. Playntext.
Mattanaw. (2023). Reading. Book and Journal of Mattanaw. Book and Journal of Mattanaw. Plaintext. Retrieved From: http://www.mattanaw.com/reading.html
Mattanaw. (2023). Bibliography, Citing, and Referring. Book and Journal of Mattanaw. Plaintext. Retrieved From: http://www.mattanaw.org/bibliography-citing-and-referring.html
Mattanaw. (2023). Certification. Book and Journal of Mattanaw. Playntext. Retrieved From: http://www.mattanaw.com/certification-requirements.html
Mattanaw. (2023). Linguistic Associative Graphs, Brains, and Adaptive Organs Like Skeletons. hBook and Journal of Mattanaw. Plaintext. Retrieved From: ttp://www.mattanaw.org/thoughtstream.html#linguistic-associative-graphs-brains-and-adaptive-organs-like-skeletons
Mattanaw. (2023). My History of Writings in the High Intelligence Community. Book and Journal of Mattanaw. Plaintext. Retrieved From: http://www.mattanaw.org/thoughtstream.html#my-history-of-writings-in-the-high-intelligence-community
Wanattam. (2022). Mathematics. Playntext. http://www.mattanaw.com/mathematics.html
Newton, I. (2016). The Principia: The Authoritative Translation and Guide: Mathematical Principles of Natural Philosophy. First Edition. [Editor left out to prevent editor wrapped citations] Pfeffer, H. (1998). The Too Many Aptitudes Problem Noesis: The Journal of the Mega Society. https://megasociety.org/noesis/138/aptitude.html
Tao, T. (2016) Analysis I. Second Edition. Hindustan Book Agency. Retrieved from the American Mathematical Society.
Towers, G. (1987). The Outsiders. Gift of Fire: Journal of the Prometheus Society. https://prometheussociety.org/wp/articles/the-outsiders/
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Russell, B., & Whitehead, A. (1962). Principia Mathematica to ’56. Cambridge.
Glossary
Dissertative Thinking
“Dissertative thinking” is a new phraseal coinage of mine relating to the propensity of a thinker to have so many novel thoughts, with strong internal and external communication skills to match, especially if one has strong typing or dictation skills, that chunks of thoughts had again and again in a day, or in a conversation, have such novelty and pre-development, including on-the-fly development, to be incipient Dissertations. Examples can be found on my ThoughtStream wherever the recordings are in paragraph form, are dense and novel, and are proven to be extremely rapid because they were timed, showing a high level of development and novelty. Oftentimes intuitions were only just prior to the writing, or recently, but the writing, usually semi-blind typed, without edits, timed for speed, were already of good quality, and provide obvious examples of incipient dissertations.
The extremely profoundly gifted would think that academia is too slow and stifling, for having so many dissertative thoughts that would relate to Ph.Ds, that one Ph.D earning over many years appears inappropriate to their intellects. Instead what is preferred is independent thinking, that gradually brings the state of dissertative thoughts to complete thoughts not requiring any dissertation to begin with. This does not imply that a exceptionally and profoundly gifted person will not want one or more doctorates for other reasons which would relate to pragmatic considerations, but they would recognize that the process does result in a number of academic writings that would not represent all the dissertation equivalents that exist in their minds.
Dissertation writing is not difficult as would be indicated by this article itself, and this is one of a future of 880 to 1760 dissertations that will appear in this Book and Journal in the next forty years. There is a review process to Dissertations not performed by the immeasurably gifted, and while review may suggest changes that would result in “defensible dissertations” increasing the quality, meaning at first they fail them then approve them after edits, there is no chance that one in 1760 dissertations would not be approved. Furthermore, additional edits to these 1760 constitute new submission variants and if there are, say, three comprehensive edits of each, that would be 5,280. If one establishes a probability of a dissertation’s acceptance from me it would be a probability of much greater than 1/5,280. Therefore I can assume doctoral status, and can simply count the topics and fields and list my numerous doctorates at a later date.
Any of these could be submitted for equivalency certifications or for peer-review at academic journals, and if any editing was required, it could be done in parallel asynchronously with other productions, considering it from a day-to-day perspective (obviously time is synchronous for writing unless I learn to write two things at the same time, and I cannot).
There will not be just one that’s the dissertation, as if a doctorate award prevents future works of similar quality and content would not also be dissertations. Article dissertations, book dissertations, and all sorts of dissertations occur after that onedissertation that produced a doctorate. It is a strange oversight, perhaps indicating insufficient intelligence combined with boldness, to forcefully convey, that any work that has properties of being a dissertation is one; and to the benefit of those writers who produced works after the first, of the same quality, in other fields, there really are and have been other dissertations written by them that are doctorate equivalent.
Being sufficiently intelligent with a combination of dissertative thinking and productivity into writing, exhibiting a significance and velocity of ideation assures eventual doctoral thesis equivalencies. It is a control mechanism of higher education currently to not allow equivalency doctorates like my equivalency GED, and not being informed I could skip school to my benefit, being already identified as gifted in my school system, I will not hear any other system tell me this is not something I can do independently!
What is missing is that dissertative thinking, too, results in sufficient quality of thought, to omit writing. The implication is that between dissertations and during dissertation writing, other dissertative thinking is happening that will go acknowledged too.
The formal quantification of the velocity of significance and ideation would result in a preference for the thought that arises in dissertations over the dissertations, and if mental content could be translated into writing, there would be no writing, and people like myself would become eminent immediately.
There are many dissertations of very poor quality, that indicate low velocity of significance and ideation, which is the cause of the struggle of paper writing and Ph.D thesis completion; anddissertations that are not on a topic that covers a real entity, like that of Dr. Martin Luther King, which covers the conception of a diety as they exist in the work of two other authors. Being theology, a topic in which the subject ought to be known, if studied, it is unknown. It is utterly unlike, say, writing about Oceanic Currents, which is a subject that has real objects to study, measure and describe. There is no diety and the dissertation is an exploration of vacuous concepts, and it is a dissertation about nothing tracing to actual entities. I would not unapprove his dissertation thinking historically he has followed a process that assured it, but it is not a dissertation about a real entity that will be accepted as a worthwhile discussion in the future. I don’t think of Theology as a topic in which dissertations can be had, although History of Religiosity would.
This is not a strange idea that an older dissertation or paper would be rejected later. One only needs to look further in history to see which papers were not really of good quality for Doctoral theses, or look at books written by certain authors from the middle ages. With sufficient time certain papers and books are rejected as being containing illusions and with sufficient time Theological works will be shown to be “illusory” too. This is when our present time becomes distant history like distant history. Seeing current times as modern is the result of cognitive bias and fallacious thinking. The cognitive bias would be one in which the current state of the world cannot be understood to be similar to history in that it will be distant history on development. Unnamed fallacies and cognitive biases outnumber those named.
The entire article must be read to understand fully this entry because premises of this perspective are scattered throughout and are jointly compelling, and necessary to understand more fully.
Genius
Genius is a term included in this glossary because it is one I greatly dislike, and wish to reduce in popular usage, although that is not in my power. Personally however, I can choose to disuse it. In this essay, it is not used actively but is mentioned.
The cause for this is it encourages fabrications mentioned in the essay proper. People wish to be called by this designation but this designation has many poor societal effects.
Much better than to use this term is to simply provide personal details that would culminate in an accurate description of one’s mind and finally would culminate in a correct and accurate, and verifiable autobiography. Notice a mission of the Book and Journal of Mattanaw is to provide such a living autobiography, complete with all materials needed to verify and quantify my mind.
But to make this a true glossary I need to define it here.
“Genius” is a popular designation applied by the public, eventually after being convinced, even without reading or comprehending the original works of the person, that their minds and productions together constitute evidence of velocity of significance and ideation, acceleration, and dissertative thinking at the extremity of what is humanly possible. The term is applied to too few people, and those who it was applied to are historical figures in which we have insufficient data, although some were certainly in the profoundly and exceptionally gifted ranges. These figures have then received a partly unwitting popular vote, unwitting because advertising and propaganda is the cause of the messages resulting in the superficial knowledge. “Genius” figures are as a rule incomprehensible to all but matching-minds, as described in the article. There is great variation in these minds and this is a cause for some not having the designation. As a popularly applied concept it gets misapplied through misinformation also stemming from propaganda and advertising and short messages. This means the word “genius” is simply not a word that is psychometrical, and is instead a popular term, part of the history of organic growth of the English language, and other languages that use an approximate translation.
The psychometrical identification of people who would perhaps become identified as “genius” is the subject of this paper. But the objective of this book/dissertation and upcoming writings is to formalize our understanding and provide better scientific rigor. The rigor will result in the finding that complete descriptions of minds and lives and their productions is better than individual psychometrical tests. The result is that people who are outside the high intelligence community will be found to have test limitations that would have blocked their identification of being profoundly gifted for not including a more complete description of their minds and lives. This same result will also discredit those who merely want to be designated as profoundly gifted, along with dangerous scam artists. Many will discover that while they are highly intelligent via IQ measures their complete description disqualifies them, although it confirmstheir own lives to them. There will be a better understanding within humanity what total humanity consists of via the zoological understanding of the species, and people will understand their relative standing and see it as true. Thus they will achieve better self-understanding, if this paper is utilized, and genius, along with too-short statements, becomes less preferable to longer descriptions.
It must be noted here that if the word “genius” is applied to an unknown person, almost nothing is known about that person. If a detailed description is applied with details, knowledge begins.
Significance
Significance relates to complexity of meaning, generality of application, abstractness, and network size of interdisciplinary and topical connectedness. Significance relates necessarily to usefulness for life or for innovation, and is not frivolous; although frivolity is to be defined by the thinkers knowing well what significance is, and not listeners who would claim certain kinds of thinking are as much. Significance is often only detectable by minds, or nervous systems, that have sufficient analogy to each other.
Velocity of Significance and Ideation
Velocity of significance is the speed of very large and accurate interdisciplinary and intertopical meaning, related to a very large and actively networked neuronal functioning. This is conveyed in conversation that is characterized by density of meaning, sometimes representing paragraphs and pages of thought not totally expressed but understood, by other with the same capacities and experience preparation only. This is due to both brains having analagous structure even at high complexity.
Velocity of Ideas is also related to brain activity in the immediate formation of new connections, including newly intuited problems and immediate solutions found. This is conveyed in conversation in novelty, also with great significance, repeated again and again, at a velocity that would be measurable ultimately as brain scanning is gradually improved.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/10/01
*Interview conducted December 22, 2022.*
*Please see the footnotes, bibliography, and citations, after the publication.*
Abstract
Beth Underhill’s biographic sketch states: “Beth Underhill’s International Show Jumping career places her today as an impressive veteran of Pan American, Olympic and World Equestrian Games. Beth is one of Canada’s top coaches for junior/amateur riders through to Grand Prix athletes. Beth’s successful career and the knowledge she has gained allows her to guide, train and mentor both horse and rider from junior to world class competition level. Beth has a wealth of experience to share with students; as the Leading Woman Rider in the World in 1995, also the first woman to win the Canadian World Cup League as well as representing Canada in the Olympics and many Nations Cup Competitions across the world: Italy, Spain, Luxemberg, Germany, Equador, USA, Holland. Today Beth is still competing at the highest level and is a great asset to any rider who is looking for coaching from an extremely passionate equestrian. Beth is also successful in training riders and horses in the Hunter and Equitation divisions, guiding one of her students to win the CET Medal Finals at the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair. Beth was also the leading trainer of the Ultimate Hunter Challenge and has twice been named Coach of the Year in Canada. Beth has acted as Chef d’Equipe for the North American Young Riders Team and oversaw the National Talent ID Program. Beth identifies up and coming talent for Canada’s future team riders. She is also a member of the High Performance Committee that selects our team riders for international and major games competitions. Canadian Grand Prix riders have elected Beth as their Grand Prix rider representative to the Jump Canada Board for the past 8 years as well as the FEI Competitions Approval Committee representing Canada. In October 2015 Beth was appointed Jump Canada’s Young Rider Development Program Advisor, a position she held until 2019. During Beths tenure with the team, Canada won an unprecedented number of medals. Including in 2017 when the Canadian Senior Young Riders team swept the podium individually, a feat that had never been done before.” Underhill discusses: longevity; Denmark; and emotional difficulties.
Keywords: Altair, Beth Underhill, Beth Underhill Stables, Canadians, emotional difficulties, Eric Lamaze, longevity, Monopoly, Nikka, Torrey Pines, under-25.
The Greenhorn Chronicles 46: Conversation with Beth Underhill on Longevity and Emotional Difficulties (2)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: What do you attribute your longevity in the sport to?
Beth Underhill: Probably stubborn. We’re fortunate that our sport 1) aids men and women who can compete equally and 2) that you get better as you get older and more experienced because you can become technically more proficient. It’s a sport where the more experiences you have, the better you can apply those experiences to horses that come along. I would never want to do it if I didn’t feel I was still mentally brave and as physically strong as I needed to be. I wouldn’t just go unthinkingly forward if I thought it wasn’t the right thing to do. I mean, I’ve been very fortunate that I’ve had situations and horses that have come along that have allowed me to continue and opportunities like what just happened with Torrey Pines and Eric the last year.
I’ve got a pretty good mindset in that I love what I do. I’m passionate about what I do. I enjoy every aspect of the sport, but I’ve always kept a healthy check with myself that you’re still good to do what you’re doing. Is this still something you feel that you’re still confident enough and still learning? And I think if you get to the point where you think, “I know it all, I’ve learned it all,” you’re done. I mean, I’ve always remained a student of this sport, stayed current in the sport, and always tried to stay connected with people throughout the industry to keep learning and stay part of it. I would say also giving back to the sport and being involved in different aspects has been important to me, whether that was starting the under-25 resurrecting. I should say the under-25 divisions and young riders and being the chef of that, whether it’s being involved on the board of directors of the Royal Winter Fair or the board of the High-Performance Committee; all those things have helped me to stay engaged and continue to meet new people, have fresh ideas, keep pushing the sport to be better in Canada and learning by being associated with people in Europe and being where you’re seeing the sport progress.
Jacobsen: How did this connection with Eric give sort of a nice boost to your longevity as well?
Beth: Well. I didn’t have the horsepower a year ago to be able to stay at the Grand Prix level for sure. So Eric definitely and clearly gave me assistance that’s in my career. I’m forever grateful for that.
Jacobsen: Okay, so with respect to Eric Lamaze, what has been sort of his contribution to this discipline, and how has this relationship with him, more recently, assisted in not only bringing about the second wind, as we’ve discussed before, but more sort of a passing of hands of skilled horses?
Beth: I mean, I’ve known Eric since he first came to Ontario when he was quite young. Right from the beginning, it was apparent he was a hugely gifted and unusual individual. He had a very unique modern perspective on the sport. He was always willing to be very courageous in the things that he did, which I admired very much. I would say he built a business very quickly and was very strong. Obviously, he was very successful at the team level in those early days once he got his foot in the door. What I also found very brave was the fact that when he was still having a very successful, strong business in Ontario, he made the move to Europe. Just with the understanding, knowledge, that for him to be the best in the world as he went on to be, he needed to set his sights even higher.
I thought that was a very courageous thing to do, and I think not many people are comfortable stepping outside their comfort zone and taking on new challenges to the degree that he did. So, he’s someone that I always watched, and like I’ve mentioned already, I very much like to follow the path of what different people did because there are so many ways to be successful in this sport and so many things to learn from so many different people. I found Eric’s trajectory and the way he navigated the pathways through the sport really fascinating and courageous. We’d always had a strong friendship. I’ve ridden with him on the team as a young rider when he was just getting started and then all the way up to when he was at the top of his game. He was always someone who was very generous to everyone, particularly Canadians, with his knowledge. Like I said, he always had a different perspective. So, he was someone that you had to be very open to trying new things, but they often worked very, very well, and he had an uncanny knack for understanding horses and understanding how to create the best partnership in a horse.
He was someone that I was very close to as a friend and as a colleague, as many of my Canadian teammates have been. We’ve stayed in touch and connected over all these many years, and he helped me with various horses over the years whenever I needed help or advice. He was always very generous with that. Just over a year ago, I went to his place to look at some horses for his students, and he raised the topic of me being involved more in his business. I would say it’s something that he had approached me with once or twice over the last ten years, and it was never the right time for me because for various reasons: I established my own business, I wasn’t in a financial situation to just step away from the business that I created financially and just jump into a completely new endeavour.
But last year, I kind of was in a position where I could maybe take a little bit more risk. We started solely; I took my business and my clients with me to Torrey Pines and was able to create a natural evolution from my business to more involvement with Torrey Pines and Eric. The timing was just right for both of us, I think. He’s given a lot to Canada as a rider, as a chef, and as a mentor for so many young people. His enthusiasm and passion for the sport I share, but he brings it to a whole other level, and I think it’s galvanized me in my later years in my career and also young people coming along. So, I think as Canadians, we have to be very grateful and thankful for what he’s given to the sport and his continuous speaking of someone who stays current and stays a student. I mean, he’s always prevalent on the scene, and he’s someone that has really made the sport and the horse life, his life work.
Jacobsen: Which horse do you feel in your own career has been the best partnership?
Beth: For myself?
Jacobsen: Yes.
Beth: I don’t think there would be one. I think different horses come to you at different times. Often times I’ve found they came to me, and it almost seems like fate. Oftentimes, when I tried to force a situation or said okay, I have a group of people or an individual that we can go do something, and you try and create that perfect storm where you find the right horse to do all the things you want them to be and do, it often doesn’t work out as well as when just that situation, those various people-horses situations come together to create a partnership. So, when I look at the horses that have been keyed in my career, like Monopoly, Altair, and Nikka, the horse I took to the World Championships, it all seemed to just be the perfect time where we found each other. Each horse has taught me many different things. Each horse has been an integral part of my career in my life, and I find that part of it fascinating how horses come together and how partnerships grow. So, each horse has a special place in my heart for sure over the years.
Jacobsen: What was on your mind going to Denmark this year?
Beth: Originally, Dieu Merci was the horse we had earmarked to be my world championship horse. He won La Baule; he jumped double clear in the Nations Cup of La Baule, and he jumped double clear with a one-time fault in the second round in Rome. He’s a horse that had the experience. Clearly, we had a very good partnership established. Unfortunately, he got injured, and actually, Eric had always thought of Nikka as a World Championship horse, which I absolutely agreed with, but as a nine-year-old, it wouldn’t be your natural consideration, and when I started with her this past year, she was still learning the ropes. She was still an inexperienced horse who was on a trajectory forward for sure and clearly had a massive amount of talent, but it was a matter of whether the world championships were too early in her career.
I would say that I became very confident in her going when everything became very easy for her. She was confident, and I felt that our partnership was growing. It was the right choice at the right time, for sure. So, I think she learned a lot from those games. I think it’ll only make her better. Clearly, she was an inexperienced horse, but she gave her all, and she was spectacular. She jumped in the first round of the Nations Cup. I was so proud of her and thrilled to have her there. You just never know how things are going to work out, and as much as Dieu Merci at the beginning of the season was the horse we expected to go, that’s part of the sport; things change, situations change, as riders we have to be able to adapt and be able to make those adjustments in our career and that’s something that I’ve learned to do and stay still mentally strong and able to give my best. So, as it turned out, I was a power there.
Jacobsen: How did you feel about going there with the different puzzle pieces of the team in terms of the logistics of putting a team together? How would you characterize the fit of Amy, Tiffany, yourself, and Erynn together?
Beth: It was really fun for us to be an all-women’s team. I’ve ridden with all three girls for many years. I’ve known Erin from the time she was a junior and jumping way back in Maclay. Tiffany, I’ve ridden on many teams with, and Amy is a very good friend as well and someone I respect hugely as an individual and as a rider. So I mean, to me, it couldn’t have been a team that was more strong and more wanting the best for each other. I would feel that way with, I mean, all our Canadian team riders are very generous, enthusiastic, and passionate riders and people, and I think the world of them. To be able to go with those three ladies, we definitely went there as a team; we worked together, we trained together for six weeks. Prior to that, they came to Europe while Tiffany was based here, but Amy and Erynn committed to being here and doing their best to be the best they could be, and I have a lot of respect for those women. They are the best of the best.
Jacobsen: How does Canada produce such great women riders compared to a lot of other countries so consistently?
Beth: We struggle because as much as we are a large country where the riders are far-flung, and there’s a small group of us. If you look at the number of Canadian top-level athletes compared to other countries like the US and Europe, I mean, we struggle with the numbers. The riders we have are very, very strong, committed, and talented riders: no question about it. And we had some remarkable results in top-level competitions, and I think that speaks to our determination and our strength and our mental strength actually, but for sure, we’re weak on horsepower. We have a very thin group of horses and riders at that top level, and I think we’re very mindful of that, and that’s why we’re trying to support our young riders and team opportunities, but it’s difficult. We don’t have the finances in our Federation to create opportunities where the riders are funded in a way that a lot of them can afford to come to Europe. It just becomes a very onerous task for people financially to do that.
That’s what worries me the most is being able to continue to create the level of experience required to jump at this top level, to create the horsepower that we need and to also have the opportunities for the young riders to compete at this top level. I mean, we have to really think outside the box and be creative about how we make this happen the next few years because it’s thin at the top, no question about it.
Jacobsen: What do you consider the main barriers other than finances for the international level?
Beth: I mean, the finances are a big issue. I would say this: the board has become very weak in Canada as well, which is extremely worrisome. We used to have so many shows that were all across Eastern and Western Canada, and those shows have shrunk. So what you’re seeing is riders are forcibly having to compete elsewhere, whether it be mostly in the United States or those that can afford to come to Europe in order to stay and learn to be at the top of their game. That’s that’s a big concern. Our shows just have so many fewer opportunities, so we’re not creating the top level of competition at the shows that we have. The shows, I believe, at Spruce Meadows are fantastic, Ottawa is great, and we have the Major League, which is terrific, but we’re missing that level below the team level that is able to compete, work and get the experience they need in Canada.
So, it’s hard to pinpoint. I think there are a lot of reasons for that happening, but it’s not all just financial for sure. I can tell you that for riders at the team level who have their businesses and have clients and students’ horses that they compete with and develop, they have to be able to stay in Canada in order to create and maintain their business. So for them to be able to drop that and then head to Europe for several months of the year in order to compete at those top shows and have those Nations Cup opportunities, that’s a very difficult thing to do when you don’t have the support financially of your Federation. That money has to come from either the individuals themselves or their owners, and that’s a big ask. Most countries are able to support their athletes much more than Canada. So, that’s a big issue in your question.
Jacobsen: When you’re training newer students, how do you systematically bring them along to a higher level of riding?
Beth: I think it’s very important that you have the right horse for the right rider at the right time in your career. I think also it’s important to instill in young riders there’s a process, and it takes time. Oftentimes, students naturally feel peer pressure; they want to jump into bigger divisions, and they’re probably ready to do it because they see their friend doing it or they have aspirations to jump to that higher level. I think patience and understanding the process of that pathway are hugely important. What’s been very good is having our under-25 division become a more clear pathway so that people understand this is how we create that pathway. So it will be starting in the pony jumpers and then the 20 Division and then the junior young riders, senior young riders, under 25s and then the team level, if that’s where they aspire to go.
I would say riders have to be realistic. I try to teach my riders to be fairly mindful of what is the best competition for them to enter with their particular horse at their particular level. I’m very strong on the foundations and the basics of the sport, so I teach them the horsemanship and the management, not just the riding skills. And again, giving them the opportunities to compete at different shows so they have varied experience and learn from that. I love doing clinics because that gives me the opportunity to reach a wider audience that maybe doesn’t have the opportunity to train with someone at a higher level. I think it’s important as riders at the top level of the sport that we make ourselves available to help younger riders coming along so that they don’t only have a love and a passion for the sport but also clearly understand how important the foundations are and that’s what I find misses a lot with our developing riders. They tend to be weak in the basics of the slot work and the education of the fundamentals of jumping, whether that’s grid work or pattern work or working on developing your eye and your horse’s ride-ability; all of those things are so integral to having a horse who’s ride-able and responsive to the rider’s aid. So that’s something I stress very heavily in my teaching.
Jacobsen: In your experience, what do you find are some of the more emotional difficulties that riders typically have to encounter throughout their careers?
Beth: I think, like I touched on, I feel that social media has created a lot of pressure for people to do well, and they see what their peers are potentially jumping. Maybe not even what they’re doing, but it’s how it comes across, and they feel either a lack of confidence or they feel that they’re being judged or watched. I feel that’s something we maybe didn’t deal with quite as much in my beginnings of the sport, not to the degree that there is today. So, I think it’s important that, as trainers, we try and create confidence in our riders and teach them that not everyone’s standing in the ring watching and judging them. As you step in the ring, it’s you and your horse and the course designer and how you can navigate the puzzles the course designers created in the course.
I think it’s important that riders are educated and trained to the point at home where they feel very comfortable in the division that they’re jumping in, so it doesn’t feel like a big ask; it’s something that they’re comfortable doing, it’s something that they practice at home, it’s something that they step in the ring and feel that they are capable and able to do. That’s why, as I mentioned, it’s so important to me that horses and riders are not overfaced. I would rather spend an extra six months with an individual or a horse, gaining their confidence because then that next step up will be solidified. When you err on the side of getting ahead of the game, then you can create detrimental attacks. So, having the rider feel very strong and confident in their own skills gives them naturally more confidence mentally when they step in the ring. So I think a lot of what riders struggle with, particularly young riders, but also at the higher levels, is fear of making a mistake and fear of not succeeding.
The reality of the situation is we’re going to lose more than we win. So you better step in the ring, working on being the best rider. You can be improving your horse incrementally, even if you come out of the ring with a rail or two, that feeling that you’ve improved in some way. To me, you have to have realistic expectations as you move along as to what you’ve learned and what you’ve gained from each experience and from each horse show. That, to me, is very important because that’s how you learn about yourself and your horse, and that’s what gives you the building blocks to consistency because what we’re looking for is consistency. We don’t want the one-hit-wonder; we want the consistency of riders that can step in the ring at the team level and deliver a clean round or double clean. It’s going to be a helpful contribution to the team score, and in order to do that it takes a lot of mental strength and education and experience, and that doesn’t happen overnight. That’s your 10,000 hours or whatever it takes to get you to that level, and it’s not a fast process. So, understanding the fact that there are going to be peaks and valleys and it’s not going to be just a quick ascension of the ranks is part of understanding the process, in my opinion.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/09/22
*Interview conducted December 22, 2022.*
*Please see the footnotes, bibliography, and citations, after the publication.*
Abstract
Beth Underhill’s biographic sketch states: “Beth Underhill’s International Show Jumping career places her today as an impressive veteran of Pan American, Olympic and World Equestrian Games. Beth is one of Canada’s top coaches for junior/amateur riders through to Grand Prix athletes. Beth’s successful career and the knowledge she has gained allows her to guide, train and mentor both horse and rider from junior to world class competition level. Beth has a wealth of experience to share with students; as the Leading Woman Rider in the World in 1995, also the first woman to win the Canadian World Cup League as well as representing Canada in the Olympics and many Nations Cup Competitions across the world: Italy, Spain, Luxemberg, Germany, Equador, USA, Holland. Today Beth is still competing at the highest level and is a great asset to any rider who is looking for coaching from an extremely passionate equestrian. Beth is also successful in training riders and horses in the Hunter and Equitation divisions, guiding one of her students to win the CET Medal Finals at the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair. Beth was also the leading trainer of the Ultimate Hunter Challenge and has twice been named Coach of the Year in Canada. Beth has acted as Chef d’Equipe for the North American Young Riders Team and oversaw the National Talent ID Program. Beth identifies up and coming talent for Canada’s future team riders. She is also a member of the High Performance Committee that selects our team riders for international and major games competitions. Canadian Grand Prix riders have elected Beth as their Grand Prix rider representative to the Jump Canada Board for the past 8 years as well as the FEI Competitions Approval Committee representing Canada. In October 2015 Beth was appointed Jump Canada’s Young Rider Development Program Advisor, a position she held until 2019. During Beths tenure with the team, Canada won an unprecedented number of medals. Including in 2017 when the Canadian Senior Young Riders team swept the podium individually, a feat that had never been done before.” Underhill discusses: becoming an equestrian; development as a rider; and culture and standards of show jumping over time.
Keywords: Beth Underhill, Beth Underhill Stables, Christilot Boylen, horses, Hugh Graham, Jimmy Elder, Jump Canada, Olympics, show jumping, Tommy Gayford.
The Greenhorn Chronicles 45: Conversation with Beth Underhill on Upbringing (1)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Am I audible? Is everything good on my side for sound?
Beth Underhill: Yes, I can hear you just fine.
Jacobsen: What were your first moments of becoming an equestrian, riding horses or being introduced to horses?
Beth: I didn’t come from a family with a history of horses at all, but my mother was of the mindset that I should have all different kinds of experiences. So when I was seven or eight years old, I had all sorts of lessons: singing lessons, piano lessons, and part of it was, “Oh, maybe you should try riding,” because I always had an affinity to animals in general. So, she got 12 lessons for 12 dollars at the YMCA, which was my first. The first time I fell off the first pony, I had my riding lesson on, and my mother thought that would be that trial’s end. But no, I went the next week, and by the end of the year, my parents had caught the bug of enjoying horses in general and the country life sort of thing. So we ended up moving to the country, and my father bought an old, dilapidated stone house, and he spent the next ten years renovating it.
We got my first pony at an auction, a family affair. My dad built me my first couple of stalls for my ponies, and we used to look after them before I went to school and after school. It just grew into a family project. So, it came through very organically and without much professional help. We just learned as we went and read many books and then gradually got involved in the Pony Club. A local pony club in Toronto gave us a lot of support. Yeah, that was my first introduction to some professionals, and we’re fortunate to have some top international riders: Christilot Hanson-Boylen, dressage rider, Jim Elder, Olympian, who helped the pony club and gave us support. That was how I got my start.
Jacobsen: What other things did your parents introduce you to besides ponies?
Beth: Other than ponies? As I said, I was firmly into singing and piano, tennis, swimming, cross-country running, you name it. It was crucial to my parents that I had an overall introduction to all kinds of things. Whichever way I seem to gravitate, they created those opportunities. It was mostly through school endeavours or just French lessons and like all kinds of things, and it was an education that gave me… I met lots of friends through doing these different things. I would say the singing and the piano were vying very strongly alongside the riding for five or six years. Then, gradually, I became more involved in the riding the pony club, and then I gravitated more towards the show jumping, and that’s kind of where I started.
Then, it was just about navigating how to do that. Despite not having an education in the sport, my parents looked into local people who could help me. As I said, the Pony Club gave us lots of opportunities, and they were smart about asking questions and doing research and helping me find people who were beneficial not just in the education of the sport but also were good people and good mentors. So, I was fortunate with those who gave me that opportunity when I started.
Jacobsen: Who would you consider the people who were keystone individuals to your development as a rider?
Beth: Starting with a pony club, as I mentioned, I would say, Jimmy Elder, Christilot Boylen in dressage, Tommy Gayford, who went on to be the Chef d’Equipe for the Canadian team that we were involved with; he was accommodating, donating his time to the pony club when I was nine or ten years old. When I was on the team at 29, he was the Chef d’Equipe. So we went full circle. I was a junior rider, and Hugh Graham was one of my first instructors. Then, I was a working student for Mark Laskin, who was also ironically a Chef d’Equipe for Canada many years later, and we remained friends throughout that time.
And then Torchy Millar is again another Chef d’Equipe for the Canadian team. He offered me my first riding job, and that’s how I was able to get the ride on Monopoly because my parents weren’t in a position financially to purchase the horses I needed to get on the Canadian Equestrian Team, but, as I said, they were very good at helping me find people that could help me on my way. I was prepared to work hard, be a working student, and do whatever it took to get the education and experience behind the scenes as a horsewoman and rider. So, the people I mentioned helped me to be a mentor and trainers.
Jacobsen: Aside from Gayford, Laskin, Elder and so on, who are individuals not involved in your life personally and professionally but who were on the scene that inspired you?
Beth: I used to keep a scrapbook of all the Canadian team riders because I always aspired to represent Canada at the top level. So, I was always someone who, regardless of what I was part of, would take it to the nth degree and dig deep and learn as much as possible. Of the team members at that time, I was very much enamoured with and followed their careers. And go to the Royal Winter Fair and be at the warm-up ring and follow them, watch what happens behind this. I was very fascinated by all aspects of the sport. I dabbled a little bit when I was in pony club with eventing. So I would say I had a pretty well-rounded… And the good thing about the pony club in those days was, unfortunately, there’s not as much of a pony club presence as there was when I was growing up, but we used to have these fireside chats on a Friday night, and they’d bring guest speakers in. So, we had the opportunity to meet a lot of the Canadian team members.
My parents are British, so I was also very knowledgeable and interested in the British team at that time. Marion Janice Mould, The Whitakers, Nick Skelton; all those people that were people that I idolized. It would be people that I wanted to emulate and that I wanted to be close to.
Jacobsen: And how did this develop more as you went professional in the sport as you basically pursued it as a career?
Beth: I would say I always aspired for it to be a career choice, but I also had become quite interested in acting, and it was ironic. Also, I’ve written a letter to Mark Laskin because he put an ad in the Horse Sport magazine looking for a working student and I’ve written a long letter about why I wanted to be a working student, and at the same time I was dabbling and acting and interested in workshops. I’d gone on an audition for a show that was coming on in Canada, and it was so bizarre because this one day, I got a call saying I got the part in this TV show, and the same day, Mark Laskin called me and said I got the job. I had to go to Edmonton. I lived in Ontario, and Edmonton was quite a long distance from my family. I was very close to my family. I asked my mother, “What should I do?” She said, “Honestly, this has to be your choice at this juncture.” I was 18 years old, and I was considering going to University as well. These two other forks in the road presented themselves, and I had to really consider what direction I wanted my life to go in, and I chose the horses.
I had a junior jumper at the time. I couldn’t afford to take my heart and my horse with me, so I just went to Mark’s as a working student, knowing that I probably wouldn’t have the opportunity to compete, but I was just so hungry for knowledge and was determined to experience that wherever it went. So, it was a difficult choice, but I felt very strongly that that was the direction I wanted to go. And I have to say my family gave me the support but didn’t make the final decision on what direction to go. So that was very much my decision.
Jacobsen: How do you frame sort of the culture and standards of the sport at the time? I’ve been told multiple times that there’s been a change in safety standards, the breed of the horse, and the style of the riding. How would you characterize that development over time to today?
Beth: The sport has become obviously much more sophisticated. It’s also probably harder to break into. I would say in those days when I was starting, you had the opportunity to jump in all different venues. I mean, you had to learn to ride on grass, like what we used to do at Spruce Meadows; the derbies, the banks and the grubs and the ditches, and you don’t see as many of those events anymore, so I think for sure it taught us to be brave. It wasn’t a sport that you entered into lightly, and it wasn’t for the faint of heart. When I started, there were pony jumpers, and they jumped quite big, and again, you had to be prepared to jump in different venues in different environments. You didn’t really start at the same level; you didn’t start in 100 divisions and work up to the jumpers.
I started in the jumper division, and it was 4’3 – 4’6, and if you weren’t good enough, you either learn to be good enough or you quit. I think that it was a bit of a trial by fire. Now, there are many more divisions like 0.8 even, 0.9 meter. So, it’s become much more of a business than an industry. You saw more in those days the professionals; the riders that they taught, they would provide them with horses. There was definitely more access to horses for the professionals. It’s become, I think, more difficult for professionals to stay mounted. It was not as many great riders for sure, but the ones that survived, the ones that were able to jump at that level, were very strong. We had a very strong Canadian contingent.
So, there’s pluses and minuses. Like I said, the sport has become so much more technical and sophisticated, but I think there were definitely benefits in my day and that you’ve learned very quickly to survive to learn by experience, and those experiences were tough. Like I said, it wasn’t for the weak at all. So I think we learned to be brave; you very quickly had to decide your path. It became very clear early on where you were destined to go.
Jacobsen: When did you make a decision to pursue the Olympics very seriously?
Beth: It’s not like you say, “I’m going to the Olympics. That’s what I’m doing.” I think you have to be mindful that there is a process, there’s a pathway, and you take it one step at a time. It’s never going to be a smooth path upward. There’s going to be plateaus, there’s going to be dips, there’s going to be moments when you think, “Oh, I’ve got this all figured out,” and then horses quickly tell you that you don’t. I think I aspired to be a top contender. Of course, the Olympics were my long-term goal, but it was never the exclusion of the process. I recognize that, as we all did, you need to have the experience. You have built through that process, and you’re not going to skip steps, especially if you don’t have the financial backing to maybe skip those steps. It was very much a matter of trying to find the horses, trying to create owners that would help me, and creating situations where I had the experience and the opportunities, whether that was competing in Europe, whether that was competing at Spruce Meadows and the Masters on the team, it was always a stepping stone.
You learned when you succeeded, you learned when you failed, and you were hopefully able to take those experiences and not have them break you but have them make you stronger and have people around you that would help you learn your craft, improve and mentally be strong enough to withstand the knocks that were inevitably gonna will come your way.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/09/22
*Interview conducted September 21, 2023.*
*Please see the footnotes, bibliography, and citations, after the publication.*
Abstract
Lynne Denison Foster is the mother of Rebecca Foster, owner of the Bale and Bucket restaurant, and Tiffany Foster, a professional equestrian show jumper ranked the highest in Canada. She was an aviation professional for 48 years, beginning with Pacific Western Airlines in 1969 in the Edmonton Reservation office and moving to Vancouver in 1973. She helped with the implementation of the first computerized reservations systems for a regional air carrier in North America. Since 1974, she has been an instructor and in 2012 was awarded BC Aviation Council’s Lifetime Achievement Award for her contribution to educating the aviation community. At Canadian/Air Canada, she trained CEOS, Pilots, Aircraft Groomers, and worked on training initiatives and programs for aviation safety management system, computerized reservation systems, corporate change, customer services, frontline leadership, human factors, interpersonal skills, management practices, and service quality. She taught at BCIT between 2000 and 2017. Foster was key in the development of the Aviation Operations Diploma Programs. She was Chief Instructor for 7 years. In 2015, she won BCIT’s Teaching Excellence Award. Foster discusses: raising Rebecca Foster and Tiffany Foster.
Keywords: aviation, Bale and Bucket, BCIT, equestrianism, Lynne Denison Foster, parenting, Rebecca Foster, teaching, Teaching Excellence Award, Thunderbird Show Park, Tiffany Foster.
The Greenhorn Chronicles 44: Lynne Denison Foster on Parenting Principles (1)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Today, we are here with…
Lynne Denison Foster: …Lynne Denison Foster…
Jacobsen: …who is the mother of…?
Foster: …Tiffany Foster…
Jacobsen: …and?
Foster: …and Rebecca Foster…
Jacobsen: …who are known for?
Foster: Tiffany is known for being a professional equestrian show jumper. She has been to the Olympics twice and won the Pan-Am gold in 2015 with the Canadian Team. Rebecca owns a restaurant at the horse show, at Thunderbird Show Park in Langley here. She has been offering food service for the last 11 years from her restaurant. Before that, she worked in hospitality with me and prepared food.
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Foster: So, that is what she is known for, her good food.
Jacobsen: As you have shown me with great hospitality in your home, so thank you very much for that.
Foster: Oh, you’re welcome.
Jacobsen: I enjoyed the apple cider vinegar with honey. It was good. I wanted to start recording some of the things that you were describing [Ed. extensively describing] of the earlier history of your role, self-identified role, as a mother, which was with Tiffany’s child acting or being in film, in commercials, and the building of some life skills that would be important later on, especially given some of your background at teaching adults these business skills, interpersonal skills, at the Airlines and BCIT.
Foster: Right.
Jacobsen: These are more important than a lot of academic skills. As we are noticing in Canadian society and many, many developed societies, women are increasingly becoming the majority of the workforce. They are far more educated. The “soft” skills important for business and general social acumen are much, much more important than muscle, brawn, force, of voice or of body, to get things moving because much of the infrastructure of societies has been built. So, those skills that you were building at that time were, in fact, building character and skills for modern society. To me, this is one interpretation that I’m taking when I hear these stories when they are kids [Ed. Off-tape in the evening, Lynne’s kids.] of building those skills moving into the present, where they are succeeding in restaurants or professional show jumping. I was taking those as principles of parenting with practical examples that you were giving. How do you interpret now, looking back, as a parent? You’re making decisions about the progression of a child and giving some skills that will be helpful down the line.
Foster: First of all, I am very proud of both of my daughters. What I think has been really incredible for them is that they have been able to have careers pursuing their passion. That is a great accomplishment for them. Perhaps, the way they were raised might have had something to do with that. My family’s motto on my father’s side is “Perseverando”. “Perseverando” means “by persevering”. As you already know, both of these girls have worked since they were kids, and Tiffany, as I mentioned before we started the principles, was working from the time she was 7. She has continued to work until she is 39 now. From age 7 to 11, she was a principle in 32 television commercials. When she finished television commercials, she had to work for her horse board and her lessons. Approaching it from that perspective, what I have tried to encourage in them, I have it right here.
[Shows tea mug]
Jacobsen: “If you want the best the world has to offer, offer the world your best…”
Foster: This was given to me by one of the student pilots when he graduated from the polytechnic post-secondary school, BCIT. That was one of the things that I really wanted to instill in my daughters, is that if you have to work or do something for somebody for whatever reason, then make sure that you do the best that you possibly can with what you’ve got, so that when you leave; they will either want you to come back or will wish you never left.
Jacobsen: [Laughing] That’s great.
Foster: I did that with my adult students who were coming to BCIT, British Columbia Institute of Technology to study for a career in Aviation. That is what I also told them until I found this quote,which is much more succinct. I posted it in all my classrooms. That is what I thought was important for my children to understand as well. When they were working, they were working for Brent and Laura, your employers. They were young. They were tired and wanted to go home. I said, “No, you stay here and do it right to the best of your ability. Otherwise, you are going to have to do it again”. That was one principle of my parenting style for my children. The other one was… can I tell you a story?
Jacobsen: You can go right ahead.
Foster: When Tiffany was about 10-years-old, I asked her to do something. She chose not to do it. I asked her again. She just was not going to do it and ignored it. I said, “I am asking you to do this. If you don’t, I’m going to have to give you a consequence”. I didn’t believe in depriving my kids by saying, “No, you can’t have riding lessons” or “you can’t go to granny’s tomorrow”. I didn’t think that was an appropriate consequence. She was going to go to her friend’s place for a sleepover. I said, “You will not be able to go to Vanessa’s until you do what I am asking you to do”. She ignored my request. She was too busy.I asked her a couple of more times. She just didn’t do it. I said, “Okay, Tiffany, you have chosen. You have made a choice. You are not going to Vanessa’s tonight”. She got very upset with me. She was crying and blaming me. “Why? You are so mean! You won’t let me do this”. This kind of stuff. I said, “What do you think would have happened if you had done it? I don’t want you to be a victim”. I had a colleague that she knew. This colleague, every time something happened because of her own actions; she would blame our employers. I said, “Do you want to be a victim like Auntie Izzy?”
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Foster: “Do you really, really want this?” She said, “Yes, I do”. I said, “There is an obstacle, which is the consequence of your action. It is your responsibility. You created that obstacle. But now, you know that I am a reasonable person. If that is so important to you, then why don’t you think about how you can overcome the obstacle and get what you want, which is to go to Vanessa’s. But it is your actions that caused that obstacle in the first place. What do you think you can do? Go away and think about it”. She went away and came back, “Okay, how about I do what you asked me to do?” I said, “No, that is not enough. The obstacle is the consequence because you didn’t do it. Think about it again”. She went back and said, “Okay, I did what you asked me to do. How about I do this and if I…” I said, “That’s not good enough”.
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Foster: “How about the consequence?” So, she chose her own consequence if she didn’t follow through with what she told me was the solution. I said, “Okay, that makes sense to me, because you decided your consequence. If you don’t do it, then it’s the consequence you have to live with. You understand that?” “I do”. We all make mistakes. We all have poor judgments. She had made a poor judgment. There was a consequence to that. But if it is something that you really want, then you have to find a way to get around it. That is what I believe. I saw it as a teaching moment for her. Again, I am not the one to blame… if I make a threat like a consequence, then I have to follow through. As they got older, I‘ll tell you this story, too. When they were teenagers and doing things that they should not have been doing, or making mistakes…
Jacobsen: …as teenagers do…
Foster: …Yes. So then, I thought. I told them this. “As you get older, I know you want to be more and more independent and be able to be responsible for making your own choices. I think that’s good. Because you need to learn how to make your own choices and live with them. But if you make a bad choice, it’s my responsibility…” – and I laid it on thick.
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Foster: “… as your mother, I want to be a good mother…”
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Foster: “…I want to be sure that I look after you and guide you. If you do something that you are not supposed to do, then I have to help you with that”.As I did with that situation when she (Tiffany) was 10. “So, I have to take away that responsibility from you, and I have to take it on. Your punishment, or your consequence, is that you are stuck with me. So, it might be 24 hours. It might take 48 hours, depending on the severity of the errors of your ways. But I am telling you right now. If you don’t do what you are supposed to do, then I have to take it on, as your loving mother”. I laid it on thick. [Laughing]
Jacobsen: That’s pretty vicious.
Foster: I said, “I will call work. I would ask for vacation time because I will be with you. I will be with you when you are sleeping to make sure you make the right choice. I will travel with you to school. I will talk to your principal saying, ‘Rebecca or Tiffany can’t make good decisions. So, I hope you don’t mind that I am in the classroom and at school with them so I can help them.’. You will be stuck with me to help you make your decisions for a certain amount of time.” And…I only had to do it once [Laughing].
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Foster: Rebecca, I never had to do it. Because Rebecca was always watching what Tiffany did and learning from her ‘mistakes’. [Laughing] “Oh my God!” It was just so embarrassing, right? So, again, I don’t remember what it was that required my interception. “Okay, Tiffany, I guess I’ll just have to stick with you”.
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Foster: At the same time, her friend came over to visit her. I think they were 15 or 16. Something like that. Her friend said, “Tiffany, come outside, I’ve got to tell you something”. I was coming along with Tiffany, because she was stuck with her mom to help make good decisions. “Carry on, don’t mind me, I’m just here to help Tiffany”. We go outside. Her friend says, “Well, uh…” Finally, Tiffany goes, “Okay, mom! I get it! I get it!” And that was it. That was the only time I had to do it. Both girls weren’t stupid and they knew I would do it again if I had to. That is the parenting I did. Tiffany tried to run away from home a couple of times too. [Laughing]
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Foster: I came after her. “We have to talk. Running away is not going to help. Let’s work it out”. Ask me another question, I get sidetracked. Punishing a kid for making mistakes doesn’t work. So, I laid it on kind of thick. “I am your loving mother. I just want to help you make good decisions”.
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Foster: Another question?
Jacobsen: Yes.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/09/15
*Interview conducted December 16, 2022.*
*Please see the footnotes, bibliography, and citations, after the publication.*
Abstract
Prof. Singer’s biographic statement on his website says the following: “Journalists have bestowed on me the tag of “world’s most influential living philosopher.” They are probably thinking of my work on the ethics of our treatment of animals, often credited with starting the modern animal rights movement, and of the influence that my writing has had on development of effective altruism. I am also known for my controversial critique of the sanctity of life ethics in bioethics. In 2021 I was delighted to receive the Berggruen Prize for Philosophy and Culture. The citation referred to my “widely influential and intellectually rigorous work in reinvigorating utilitarianism as part of academic philosophy and as a force for change in the world.” The prize comes with $1 million which, in accordance with views I have been defending for many years, I am donating to the most effective organizations working to assist people in extreme poverty and to reduce the suffering of animals in factory farms. Several key figures in the animal movement have said that my book Animal Liberation, first published in 1975, led them to get involved in the struggle to reduce the vast amount of suffering we inflict on animals. To that end, I co-founded the Australian Federation of Animal Societies, now Animals Australia, the country’s largest and most effective animal organization. My wife, Renata, and I stopped eating meat in 1971. I am the founder of The Life You Can Save, an organization based on my book of the same name. It aims to spread my ideas about why we should be doing much more to improve the lives of people living in extreme poverty, and how we can best do this. You can view my TED talk on this topic here. My writings in this area include: the 1972 essay “Famine, Affluence, and Morality” in which I argue for donating to help the global poor; and two books that make the case for effective giving, The Life You Can Save (2009) and The Most Good You Can Do (2015). I have written, co-authored, edited or co-edited more than 50 books, including Practical Ethics, The Expanding Circle, Rethinking Life and Death, One World, The Ethics of What We Eat (with Jim Mason) and The Point of View of the Universe (with Katarzyna de Lazari-Radek). My writings have appeared in more than 25 languages. I was born in Melbourne, Australia, in 1946, and educated at the University of Melbourne and the University of Oxford. After teaching in England, the United States, and Australia, in 1999 I became Ira W. DeCamp Professor of Bioethics in the University Center for Human Values at Princeton University. I am now only teaching at Princeton for the Fall semester. I spend part of each year doing research and writing in Melbourne, so that Renata and I can spend time with our three daughters and four grandchildren. We also enjoy hiking, and I surf.” Singer discusses: stronger arguments against animal ethics; eating less meat; supernaturalism; and human problems.
Keywords: Animal Liberation, Animal Liberation Now, climate change, factory farms, God, greenhouse gases, Peter Singer, Sean Carroll, sentient animals.
Conversation with Professor Peter Singer Animal Ethics: Ira W. DeCamp Professor of Bioethics, Princeton University (4)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: What would you consider the stronger arguments coming against the ones that you tend to make in Animal Liberation, Animal Liberation Now, and in animal ethics in general?
Prof. Peter Singer: I think the best argument specifically against the claim that you ought not to consume animals at all, or at least put aside consuming clearly sentient animals. I think the best argument against that is one that focuses on animal products from animals who are not factory farmed living good lives outdoors. So, the argument says that these animals would not exist at all. They get killed. They get killed to get eaten. Their lives are short. Is that worse than no life at all? Arguably, a short good life is better than no life at all. So, I find that quite a difficult argument. It gets you into deep philosophical questions quickly about whether bringing a new animal into existence to live a good life can replace, somehow justify, killing the animal living a good life, but could have lived many more years if they hadn’t been killed. So, I think that’s a tough argument for somebody who is trying to argue for being a vegetarian, to me. From my point of view, as it is still only a factory farming argument, it goes most of the way to where I would want to go; it doesn’t quite go all the way. If somebody told me, “We could wipe out factory farming altogether, but double the number of animals living in more traditional farms in social groups that meet their needs”. I’ll say, “I’ll take it”. Yes, the suffering in factory farming is so much greater than the suffering or the slaughter through the fact of the shortening of the animal’s life; I think that would definitely be worth eliminating factory farming to let that continue.
Jacobsen: What would you consider the strongest argument for eating less meat?
Singer: I think the simplest argument for eating less meat is the climate change argument. Every reduction you make is a good thing, clearly. It reduces greenhouse gases in the air and supports the growth of plants and vegetables, which are much more efficient in the fallout of greenhouse gas emissions, particularly beef and dairy. Also, it is much better for animals reducing the amount of factory farming or contributing to reducing the amount of factory farming and reduces pandemic risk as well. I think the idea that if you are not prepared to eliminate animal products, then the argument to reduce them is a pretty sensible and sound idea.
Jacobsen: How do you deal with the arguments around climate change? One argument countered against it is the supernaturalistic one. “You are interfering with God’s Will. God will sort it out for us”. It is similar to the ones found in anti-abortion arguments where God is bringing life into the world at conception, sort of thing. How do you tend to grapple with those arguments where the frame of reference isn’t even used in the same sphere of reference, empiricism? Jerry Seinfeld has this one metaphor in a different context where you’re playing chess and the board is made of water and the pieces are made of smoke.
Singer: [Laughing] Of course, God is elusive like that. You can’t quite grab it.
Jacobsen: Sean Carroll says God is a bad argument because God is a poorly defined concept.
Singer: Right, one thing you can do is ask the person, “Why do you believe there is a God at all?” You can get the concept of God that they have. The idea that God will fix climate change seems [Laughing] to me – let’s say – a high-risk strategy.
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Singer: Which seems to me probable that there isn’t a God, there is going to be no fix. I remember once, one of the best front pages of the newspapers I saw was the New York Daily News after a shooting. One of those school shootings I think it was. What they had around the whole of the side, the side of the front page, they had these little portraits of various politicians who had said, ‘Our prayers are with you’, to these parents of the kids. ‘We are praying for you.’ The headline in the middle of the page was, “God isn’t fixing this”.
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Singer: Yes. It’s true. Lots of people praying that no more people will get killed in these mass shootings that America has been having. God doesn’t seem interested in fixing it, unfortunately. Right?
Jacobsen: Some of these high school kids come forward saying, to the effect, “We don’t want your prayers. We want policy change”.
Singer: We have to fix it ourselves in other words. That’s the same for climate change.
Jacobsen: Peter, thank you for your time today.
Singer: Thank you for holding out until the book is published. Thank you for that too.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/09/01
Abstract
Prof. Singer’s biographic statement on his website says the following: “Journalists have bestowed on me the tag of “world’s most influential living philosopher.” They are probably thinking of my work on the ethics of our treatment of animals, often credited with starting the modern animal rights movement, and of the influence that my writing has had on development of effective altruism. I am also known for my controversial critique of the sanctity of life ethics in bioethics. In 2021 I was delighted to receive the Berggruen Prize for Philosophy and Culture. The citation referred to my “widely influential and intellectually rigorous work in reinvigorating utilitarianism as part of academic philosophy and as a force for change in the world.” The prize comes with $1 million which, in accordance with views I have been defending for many years, I am donating to the most effective organizations working to assist people in extreme poverty and to reduce the suffering of animals in factory farms. Several key figures in the animal movement have said that my book Animal Liberation, first published in 1975, led them to get involved in the struggle to reduce the vast amount of suffering we inflict on animals. To that end, I co-founded the Australian Federation of Animal Societies, now Animals Australia, the country’s largest and most effective animal organization. My wife, Renata, and I stopped eating meat in 1971. I am the founder of The Life You Can Save, an organization based on my book of the same name. It aims to spread my ideas about why we should be doing much more to improve the lives of people living in extreme poverty, and how we can best do this. You can view my TED talk on this topic here. My writings in this area include: the 1972 essay “Famine, Affluence, and Morality” in which I argue for donating to help the global poor; and two books that make the case for effective giving, The Life You Can Save (2009) and The Most Good You Can Do (2015). I have written, co-authored, edited or co-edited more than 50 books, including Practical Ethics, The Expanding Circle, Rethinking Life and Death, One World, The Ethics of What We Eat (with Jim Mason) and The Point of View of the Universe (with Katarzyna de Lazari-Radek). My writings have appeared in more than 25 languages. I was born in Melbourne, Australia, in 1946, and educated at the University of Melbourne and the University of Oxford. After teaching in England, the United States, and Australia, in 1999 I became Ira W. DeCamp Professor of Bioethics in the University Center for Human Values at Princeton University. I am now only teaching at Princeton for the Fall semester. I spend part of each year doing research and writing in Melbourne, so that Renata and I can spend time with our three daughters and four grandchildren. We also enjoy hiking, and I surf.” Singer discusses: Animal Liberation Now; synthetic constructs; billions of conscious beings now; and obscure research.
Keywords: Animal Liberation, Animal Liberation Now, artificial intelligence, Australia, conscious, ethics, feeling, morality, Peter Singer, suffering, Yip Fai Tse.
Conversation with Professor Peter Singer on Artificial Intelligence and Wild Animal Suffering: Ira W. DeCamp Professor of Bioethics, Princeton University (3)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: And back to the text itself, for the update, Animal Liberation Now, what was sort of the reason for the expansion on the concepts, arguments, evidence, for you?
Prof. Peter Singer: The book was fully first published in 1975. It was fully updated in 1990. But it hasn’t been fully updated since then. The text was getting out of date. Some of the core ethical ideas are valid. There has been a lot of discussion about them. I don’t see anything that has made reason to change the core ethical ideas, including what I said here: For any being capable of feeling pain, the pain of that being ought to get equal consideration to similar pains of humans or other beings. So, that argument is still there. But the book has a long chapter on factory farming and the way animals are treated there, and how that developed, and another long chapter on the use of animals in research. All of the information in those chapters was 30 years out of date. That’s not good. If I want the book to remain relevant, and if I want people to keep reading it, it needs to give them up to date information about the world in which they’re living, not the world in which their parents were living. That was really the major factor that I decided it was time for a full update. In fact, it is such a complete change that that’s why the publishers decided to call it Animal Liberation Now rather than a third edition of Animal Liberation.
Jacobsen: There are some developments on the computer science end of things, on synthetic constructs. People are sort of making arguments about, some reasonable arguments about, borderline aware artificial intelligence: how that will play out or not. We don’t necessarily know. However, we know as natural beings ourselves. We can evolve conscious experience, e.g., pain, feeling, somewhat rational capacities. For artificially constructed ones that could be engineered through a different process than evolution itself, do you think a similar set of arguments could be played in some farther future than current with those constructs?
Singer: I think this issue is bound to arise in the future. It is difficult to know when. I don’t think we have any conscious artificial intelligence as yet. We have things that are absolutely amazing in terms of specific tasks that they are programmed to do. The obvious ones like Chess or Go. But we also have amazing machines that talk to us or appear to talk to us. Professors are being told that they can write essays as good as those of our students.
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Singer: We wouldn’t know if a machine or a student had. But these are specific tasks. We know how they work. We have a sense of what they are doing and what we are programming them to do. I don’t think we have artificial general intelligence. That can adapt itself to any particular task in the way that humans can. I think if we do have that, then we will have to start seriously asking if this is a sentient being and has the same moral status as other sentient beings, including non-human animals even including us. It will face us at some stage. But I think it will be a little while, yet.
Jacobsen: In some real sense, we have billions of other less conscious but feeling, etc., organisms that are around with ethical consideration, right now. Can some policymakers, politicians, and intellectuals, run the risk of ignoring more immediate, long-term obvious ethical considerations of animals now when getting lost in hypotheticals about artificial intelligence in the near and far future?
Singer: There is a danger that is happening. It may already be happening because I have been a research project on AI and animals together with a Chinese, Hong Kong-based, researcher called Yip Fai Tse. He looked at a whole lot of statements about ethics and AI. I think he looked at 75 statements or something like that. I think he found only 2 out of those 75 that talked about the importance for AI ethics of considering anything like animals, even those too were not about individual animals. They were more about preserving nature and ecology, which would include animals. Whereas, there were quite a lot. I can’t remember the number. They talked about the importance of respecting AI when it may be a conscious benign and may have rights. It seems people who do AI ethics are more interested in conscious entities that don’t exist…
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Singer: … than they are about dealing with the billions of conscious entities who do exist. Which, by the way, AI is already having an impact on. We already have semi-autonomous cars driving around and some test autonomous cars driving around. Clearly, they brake if a child comes out to the field of vision in front of them. Do they get programmed to brake equally hard if an animal does, and if so, do they do it for dogs and not for small rodents, or something like that or birds? That is one way AI affects animals. The one that is likely to be more impactful soon is AI running factory farms, China is one of them. It will remove human contact, which may be good for reducing the pandemic as far as risk goes, I suppose. Possibly, AI may not be sadistic and beat up animals because it is frustrated with some boss above telling it what to do, which can happen with lowly paid and somewhat oppressed workers on factory farms. So, you know, there can be positive pictures, but there can be a lot of negative pictures. Because you could crowd animals more than animals are crowded now. An AI may set off an alarm if things are going wrong and getting too crowded. I think AI is going to have an effect on billions of animals before very long. It is something that we should think about.
Jacobsen: What would you consider your most obscure but interesting piece of research on animal ethics?
Singer: Oh, on animal ethics, in Animal Liberation Now, I raise the question, which I didn’t raise in the earlier additions about suffering of wild animals. That is something which I had been aware of. It had been on the radar for quite a while. I pushed it to the sidelines only because I thought this was going to cause a clash between the values of animals welfare people and environmentalists. Politically, that is not a good thing because environmentalists and animal welfare people have been working together quite well. Green parties tend to have better animal welfare policies than environmentalists. I am now pursuaded that there are things that we might do for wild animal suffering that aren’t going to drastically change ecosystems. They might, for example, reduce the suffering of wild animals living in suburbia, which is very far from a natural, pristine environment. There are things you can do like installing bird-friendly glass so birds don’t fly into live windows, keeping cats indoors, or restricting in various ways so they don’t kill mice and small birds. There are a lot of things you can do you reduce wild animal suffering. And it is something that should be done.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/09/01
Abstract
Dr. Norman Finkelstein remains one of the foremost experts and independent scholars on the Israeli occupation and the crimes against the Palestinians. He expanded some research into more academic freedom issues in the newest text. His most recent book is I’ll Burn That Bridge When I Get To It!: Heretical Thoughts on Identity Politics, Cancel Culture, and Academic Freedom (2022). Finkelstein discusses: mobilization of a class-based movement thwarted; persons and peoples; identity politics and virtue signalling; and bourgeois progress.
Keywords: Aaron Maté, Al Sharpton, Barack Obama, Bernie Sanders, bourgeois, class-based politics, Colin Powell, Hillary Clinton, human dignity, identity politics, Kamala Harris, Katie Halper, Madeline Albright, Marxist, Noam Chomsky, Norman Finkelstein.
Conversation with Dr. Norman Finkelstein on Human Dignity, Identity Politics, and Class-Based Politics: Independent Political Analyst (2)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Do you think, by this definition of “radical” for a movement, that the attacks from these individuals who you cite in the text, and their source material, in a critical way nullifies the base that was present for the mobilization of that, basically, class-based political movement?
Dr. Norman Finkelstein: I would say its effect is to wreck and discredit the class-based movement. The combined systematic assaults on the Bernie campaign for being weak on these questions. Then I would add that for most working-class kids, young people, or those who are trapped with student debt, skyrocketing student tuition, inability to move out of their parents’ homes, jobs with no future, and so forth. The first item on their agenda is exactly those material concerns that animated the Bernie Sanders campaign. This obsession with issues of “identity” is, basically, a concern of very privileged circles of people. The old Angela Davis, who I remember growing up as a child, was on the FBI’s ten most wanted list. She was one of the ten most wanted persons in the country. The new Angela Davis, the poster child of identity politics, she is on Martha’s Vineyard: five most coveted lit. It is a really sorry, sorry thing that Angela Davis, extremely smart, either doesn’t see or doesn’t want to see why she is so welcomed into the corridors and into the vacation spots of the wealthiest and most privileged people in the world, in the world. She doesn’t even see what is going on or doesn’t want to see what is going on. She is now useful to them.
Jacobsen: I want to combine two statements from the text. In one commentary describing your mother’s death and Clara, one of the caretakers, there was a statement, “There are only persons, not peoples”. At another point in the text, there was a statement, “To be proud of being black, a woman, or gay defies rational sense, one cannot be proud of what one is, only what one does”. Professionals in psychology, and psychiatry, have noted a rise in narcissism in American culture over the last couple to few decades. Do you think this focus on the self, as in identity, is a reflection of this, too, rather than focus on one’s actions and real-life accomplishments?
Finkelstein: I don’t know much about… I don’t know anything, not even not much, about this psychological or psychiatric literature on narcissism. I can see the beneficial values to not being ashamed of who you are. And Martin Luther King, I quote him at some point in a footnote. His reaction to the black power” and black is beautiful movement, which merged in the 1960s. He said that even though he disagrees with the slogan of black power. He recognizes that it might — and also black is beautiful, in the context of people who have been taught, educated to be ashamed of themselves… that he can see the positive resonance of those slogans. So, I can see — the black is beautiful or “I am woman, here me roar” — the therapeutic effects or the therapeutic value of those slogans. I get that. I get that. During the ACT UP movement, the movement that emerged during the AIDS epidemic. The slogan was, “We’re here. We’re queer. Get used to it.” “We’re here. We’re queer. Get used to it.”I thought that, frankly, was a good slogan, but I get those slogans. But I then think it turns into something not sensible, not reasonable when you acquire a value as a person over something over which you had no control. You’re not black, you’re not gay, you’re not a woman, by virtue of personal exertion, some concentration of personal will. It’s not an achievement. It’s just a given. It’s not an achievement. It doesn’t make sense to me to be proud of something over which you had no input. What are you proud of? You had nothing to do with it. “I’m proud of the fact that I’m Noam Chomsky’s son, for example.” Well, why would you be proud of that? You can only be proud of what you, yourself, accomplished. Just being his son, in and of itself, cannot be a source of pride, that doesn’t make any sense. That’s the same thing with the identity politics in general, or the identity politics in general. It makes no sense to be proud of something over which you have no control or input.
Jacobsen: In conversation with Katie Halper and Aaron Maté, your conclusion was such that identity politics is a weapon of the democratic party to nullify class-based politics. You commented briefly on that earlier in the interview. What follows from this conclusion if it is a conscious weapon to nullify or eliminate individuals or movements seen as a threat to anything focus on class-based politics?
Finkelstein: I would say it serves several functions. One is the one that you just named. Two, it is designed to replace the white working-class base of the democratic party, which has been the case since Franklin Delano Roosevelt in the 1930s. That’s been the base of the democratic party, the white working-class base. It’s to replace it with a new base, which is identity politics based. So, you have a black woman Vice President in order to get black woman votes. You have a gay Secretary of Transportation, Pete Buttigieg, in order to get gay votes. You have a Jim Clyburn as the third most powerful person in the House of Representatives to derail the Bernie campaign in the South Carolina primary, when Clyburn endorses Biden. So, a second function is, of identity politics is, to win over a potential constituency by putting in an identity representative of that constituency in the senior position of either actual power or figure head power. That’s a second function. The third function is among the identity politics folks themselves, where the identity politics are jockeying for power. If you create a new oppression, so, you’re a black, female, lesbian. That’s a triple oppression. Then you have a claim to representation by your own special oppressed group, not just black, not just woman, but black, woman, lesbian. So, you have a new kind of representation of which you can be the representative. That’s another function of identity politics. That is not at the level of the ruling elite. It is at the level of what you might call minority entrepreneurs, who fabricate identities in order to gain positions of power or of privilege.
Jacobsen: With individuals like Barack Obama, do you think this, at the time of his presidency, surrounding himself by people like an Al Sharpton rather than black intellectuals with a little more intellectual or academic cachet was a really first moment at a higher level of political office where identity politics and virtue signalling were given a lot more leeway?
Finkelstein: Look, Al Sharpton will never get a medal for marching. He’s an old-time hustler. He’s always been a crook. Everyone’s known him to be a crook. He’s a low-life of the first-order. He’s a top-notch low-life, but he has organization. He has connections. And so, Obama took him in, in order to turn out — not just turn out — his own little club, but because he is connected, knows how to organize a rally, knows how to network. Because he has an extensive network. So, that wasn’t virtue signalling, I think. Virtue signalling is when Joe Biden chooses a black woman Vice President and another black woman in the Supreme Court, now has a black woman Press Secretary. That’s party building. That’s how Biden thinks he will get that constituency, and he probably will get that constituency with the black women he is choosing.
Jacobsen: I feel like some aspects, as a Canadian example, of the Canadian military… they had made changes for, sort of, identity to be incorporated into some of its systems and policies, and so on. Yet, it still, the military, is used for the purposes in foreign countries. Do you think in these other institutions of the State that the use of identity politics for those aspects of empire are merely extensions of that into the more brutal of an empire, or extensions of, say, violence and force, or institutions that are, typically, used for that purpose?
Finkelstein: Look, there is a legitimate argument. There is a legitimate area of contention, whether putting women, minorities into positions of power represents some kind of progress. Is it progress that the Secretary of State was, in a sense, Colin Powell? Was it progress that the Secretary of State was Madeline Albright? Is it progress that Kamala Harris is the Vice President? People can disagree on those things. I don’t really have an answer to it. To use the old-fashioned Marxist framework, it would represent progress because it is the completion of what they called back then bourgeois rights: full equality before the law is a bourgeois right. Everyone should be treated equally. Ending discrimination is a bourgeois right. They would say as a bourgeois, or in a capitalist democracy, that represents progress. I guess there is some truth to it. If Hillary Clinton had been elected president and made a woman president, is that progress? At some level, it is. Of course, I can see that. But does it represent a radical change? My answer: No. I can see it, as I said, a bourgeois demand. But does it represent a radical change? No, not in my opinion. You see it among young people nowadays who are much less thrilled by the fact that Barack Obama was President of the United States. The attitude is, “Yes, it was a historic achievement, but we have to move on. There are more pressing concerns”.
Jacobsen: Norman, thank you very much for the opportunity and your time, again.
Finkelstein: Okay, and thank you too, for being patient with me.
Jacobsen: No worries.
Finkelstein: We’ll be in touch.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/08/22
Abstract
Dr. Norman Finkelstein remains one of the foremost experts and independent scholars on the Israeli occupation and the crimes against the Palestinians. He expanded some research into more academic freedom issues in the newest text.His most recent book is I’ll Burn That Bridge When I Get To It!: Heretical Thoughts on Identity Politics, Cancel Culture, and Academic Freedom (2022). Finkelstein discusses: I’ll Burn That Bridge When I Get To It!; Ibram X. Kendi; Rabbi Arthur Hertzberg; Tariq Ali; pronouns; cancellation; virtue signalling and virtue.
Keywords: academic freedom, Ibram X. Kendi, Kimberlé Crenshaw, Noam Chomsky, Norman Finkelstein, Norman X. Finkelstein, Rabbi Arthur Hertzberg, Robin DiAngelo, Ta-Nehisi Coates, Tariq Ali, virtue, virtue signalling, Woke Left.
Conversation with Dr. Norman Finkelstein on “I’ll Burn That Bridge When I Get to It!”: Independent Political Analyst (1)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Okay, we are now recording. This is an interview with Dr. Norman Finkelstein on his new text, I’ll Burn That Bridge When I Get There (sic).
Dr. Norman Finkelstein: No, “When I Get To It!”
Jacobsen: When I Get To It! I apologize.
Finkelstein: No problem.
Jacobsen: So, first things first, your original name was Norman Gary Finkelstein.
Finkelstein: That is correct.
Jacobsen: Since writing this critique of Woke Left sociopolitical commentaries, as per the cover page, your name has changed to “Norman X. Finkelstein”. Why the change? Is this part of the normal acidic humour playing of Ibram X. Kendi?
Finkelstein: Well, my name hasn’t changed at all, except for the cover of the book. If you look at the title page and everywhere else, it is Norman Finkelstein. The cover of the book is supposed to be garish and humorous. So, I thought I would do what all these Woke people do, which is try to create a brand for themselves. So, I am kind of mocking it. The current brand, as you know, is: at every possible juncture, opportunity, and occasion, insert an “X”. We have “Latin X”. We have “Ibram X. Kendi.” We have X this and X that. The whole Wokeness phenomenon is, in my opinion, mostly branding. They are buzzwords, slogans, devoid of any intellectual or political content. So, on the cover of the book, I was mocking that.
Jacobsen: At the current moment, I am working in a stable. For those who know your work very well, you were mentored by (Prof.) Noam Chomsky. My ears are perking up about the story in the text about Rabbi Arthur Hertzberg when he asked, “Are you in Chomsky’s stable?”, when you told him that you hold him in highest esteem. You never heard from him again.
Finkelstein: That is correct.
Jacobsen: There are numerous stories. Tariq Ali said the book is about settling scores. I don’t know. To me, it is more providing personal examples plus the regular incisive scholarship. Do you have sort of further responses to the critique or criticism of Tariq Ali that is the book is sort of meandering more than direct?
Finkelstein: Okay, I guess, I’m not quite capturing your question. So, if you can repeat it, I’ll be able better to engage it.
Jacobsen: Sure. So, you give personal stories within the text. As I work in a stable, my eyes perked up about Rabbi Arthur Hertzberg, when he asked you, “Are you in Chomsky’s stable?” You stated that you hold him in the highest esteem. You never heard from him again. There are numerous stories like this within the text, where people completely distance themselves from you or cut themselves off from you, or cancel you. Tariq Ali said the book is about settling scores. I don’t know. To me, it is simply more about providing personal examples plus regular incisive scholarship. Do you think this criticism of Tariq Ali is appropriate, or there is a more nuanced take to sort of respond to that?
Finkelstein: The book consists of 8 chapters. Then there are separate conclusions to what I call Part I and Part II. Those 8 chapters, chapter 2 is an intensive examination of Kimberlé Crenshaw. Chapter 3 is Ta-Nehisi Coates. Chapter 4 is Robin DiAngelo. Chapter 5, which runs to 100 pages, is Ibram X. Kendi. Chapter 6 is Barack Obama. And then there are two chapters on academic freedom. So, apart from chapter 1, which is a personal overview and introduction to the rest of the book. Apart from chapter 1, there is no personal score-settling at all. It is analyses, analysis of texts, trying to look for the logic, looking for the reasoning, looking for the evidence, for various claims made by Kimberlé Crenshaw, Ta-Nehisi Coates, Ibram X. Kendi, Robin DiAngelo. There’s no score-settling at all. It has nothing to do with score-settling. It is an analysis of texts. So, I think my reasonable inference is Tariq Ali read about 10 pages of the book and then discarded it.
Jacobsen: You note how in the current culture the party line can shift rapidly. This can create a basis for a sense of pervasive unease. How does this rapid shifting back-and-forth of the forbidden, the verboten, or not, make everyone vulnerable to cancellation?
Finkelstein: Because in the current climate, you can never really know if something you say is going to offend some person, and then you get hauled, for example, if you work in a company. Or if you work in a university, you get hauled to human resources. You are diagnosed as in desperate need of some sort of counselling therapy sessions. I know, when I teach, I am always wondering, “If I say that, am I going to be crossing some red line of some person?” Yesterday, just yesterday, an absolutely nice student, an absolutely nice student, came up to me at the end of class. I understood some students, a small number but still a small number, are wearing masks. One of the students was wearing a mask. I was unable to judge from this person’s physiognomy, which is the fancy word for face. I was unable to judge whether this person was a male or a female. The person had very long hair. The person, I should say, was also Vietnamese. Very long hair, almost like you would say, “Native American, Geronimo” style, and I thought his person was a female. Although, I was always not sure. I was not sure. The person came up to me at the end of class, very nice person, absolutely the nicest person, and said, “You referred to me in class a Mrs., but my pronoun is he. And I’m only bringing this to your attention because it may cause confusion among other students”. So, the person was not being accusatory at all, but just trying to be clarifying. And then, I just got so confused. I’m trying to think, “Is this person – so to speak – just a guy? And I couldn’t tell because the person had the mask on. Or was this person a trans person?” And in any case, I just got seized by confusion. I don’t know what’s going on. I am beginning to worry, “Did I make a mistake here? Did I make a mistake there?” It is just crazy. I’m trying to teach a class on international law. I have 36 students. And I am very proud of the fact that within approximately 3 weeks – even though, I am on the verge of 70 years old – that I make it a point to learn every student’s name. I want to learn every student’s name. I am at the point where I know every student’s name. It tells me my memory is still functioning, alright? Now, on top of learning every student’s name, I have a new burden. I have to learn everybody’s pronouns of which, you know, there approximately, now, 100. I think this is complete lunacy. Period, full stop. Pronouns simply designate your biological sex, that’s all I am interested in because there are certain aspects of public life where you need to know a person’s biological sex. What bathroom they use, what locker room they use, what sports team they are on, so, biological sex plays a public role. As to your world of social identification, you see yourself as a woman. You see yourself as a man. You see yourself as this, that, and the other. That’s your business. I’m not interested. The classroom is not a dating app. I’m there to teach. And I find this whole thing completely – this pronoun thing – insane. Now, I recognize that this person was acting in completely good faith, wasn’t trying to terrorize me, as there was another student who did try to terrorize me and it didn’t work. One student who wanted me to publicly apologize in class each time I misidentified this person’s pronouns. Sorry! The Stalin Era is over. We’re not having purge trials and confession. I’m very pleased that I know your name. Now, don’t start terrorizing me with your pronouns, because I don’t give a darn what your pronouns are, I’m here to teach.
Jacobsen: You did state in the text that you would tell someone your pronouns if they tell you their net worth.
Finkelstein: That’s correct. Because I am a little tired of these privileged people trying to show off to me how politically correct they are, and how progressive they are, and how regressive you are, and how regressive I am. Privileged people have nothing better to do with their time than to sit around contemplating their pronouns. Privileged people telling me how privileged I am. Because I am white and male. I don’t need people from Martha’s Vineyard lecturing me on privilege, on my privilege.
Jacobsen: You had an incident on a television show that you’ve been on for 30 years. Where, I believe, a one-sentence statement came back as a retort from a woman, “Your days of white male privilege are over”.
Finkelstein: The person said, “The days of white male privilege are over”.
Jacobsen: Why the direct-to-banning reaction rather than something more mild, even if there was a disagreement with the behaviour or the statement?
Finkelstein: You should ask that person.
Jacobsen: You call this culture a “dictatorship of virtue signalling”.
Finkelstein: That’s what it is.
Jacobsen: Why is the focus on virtue signalling rather than virtue? Isn’t virtue its own signal?
Finkelstein: In order to gain respect for your political commitments, for your mode of behaviour, respect is earned by sacrifice, we respect Martin Luther King because he was not one to talk the talk. He was willing to walk the walk. He was willing to walk it straight into knowingly, his grave. That’s what we respect. Not just your avowed values, or your willingness to sacrifice for those values, that’s why we respect Ghandi. That’s why we respect Socrates. There’s no sacrifice involved in scolding other people about their pronouns. Where is the sacrifice? This whole Woke culture doesn’t require, of all these Woke people, any sacrifice whatsoever. We respect people like Paul Robeson because he was the most renowned black figure in the world as a concert performer, as an athlete, as an intellectual. He sacrificed all of that to the point of his whole career, his whole professional life, being destroyed. He sacrificed that for his principles. What sacrifice do these Woke people make? What price do they pay? That’s why it is virtue signalling. It’s not virtue. Because you pay no price for it. You just carry on. You perform for the cameras, displaying your virtue. All I see is people making a mint from the purported virtue. I see Ibram X. Kendi getting $10,000,000 from the former CEO of Twitter, Jack Dorsey. I see all these Black Lives Matter people like Patrice Cullors going on real estate buying sprees because they came up with this hashtag, #BlackLivesMatter, enriching themselves, cutting the contracts with Netflix, or book contracts enriching themselves from their purported virtue. I don’t see sacrifice. I see enrichment. I see entrepreneurship. I see a band of crooks.
Jacobsen: This focus on identity seems to be a convenient shift. You note some of this in the text about the Democratic Party. Away from class warfare, in the sense of a focus on class consciousness along with identities, for any kind of political movement, it sort of deflects from real economic hardships people are having and any sort of mobilization on a socioeconomic, class base.
Finkelstein: It’s not just the shift. The identity politics is used as a juggernaut to instrumentalize, in order to destroy a class politics. That’s not just theoretical. It was the Angel Davis, the Kimberlé Crenshaws, the Ta-Nehisi Coates. It was all of them attacking Bernie Sanders during the most important class-based mobilization in the last century, since the 1930s. It’s them attacking Bernie Sanders for “being weak” on the black question, for not being with it like Amazon. So, Kimberlé Crenshaw says all the action is happening among the big corporations, like Amazon having a Black Lives Matter banner on its website. That, to her, is where all the action is, and Bernie is just this old Jewish schmuck talking about class struggle. It’s designed – it’s designed – to wreck and destroy a real class base, mass movement, which, unlike identity politics, does threaten the powers that be.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/08/22
Abstract
Prof. Singer’s biographic statement on his website says the following: “Journalists have bestowed on me the tag of “world’s most influential living philosopher.” They are probably thinking of my work on the ethics of our treatment of animals, often credited with starting the modern animal rights movement, and of the influence that my writing has had on development of effective altruism. I am also known for my controversial critique of the sanctity of life ethics in bioethics. In 2021 I was delighted to receive the Berggruen Prize for Philosophy and Culture. The citation referred to my “widely influential and intellectually rigorous work in reinvigorating utilitarianism as part of academic philosophy and as a force for change in the world.” The prize comes with $1 million which, in accordance with views I have been defending for many years, I am donating to the most effective organizations working to assist people in extreme poverty and to reduce the suffering of animals in factory farms. Several key figures in the animal movement have said that my book Animal Liberation, first published in 1975, led them to get involved in the struggle to reduce the vast amount of suffering we inflict on animals. To that end, I co-founded the Australian Federation of Animal Societies, now Animals Australia, the country’s largest and most effective animal organization. My wife, Renata, and I stopped eating meat in 1971. I am the founder of The Life You Can Save, an organization based on my book of the same name. It aims to spread my ideas about why we should be doing much more to improve the lives of people living in extreme poverty, and how we can best do this. You can view my TED talk on this topic here. My writings in this area include: the 1972 essay “Famine, Affluence, and Morality” in which I argue for donating to help the global poor; and two books that make the case for effective giving, The Life You Can Save (2009) and The Most Good You Can Do (2015). I have written, co-authored, edited or co-edited more than 50 books, including Practical Ethics, The Expanding Circle, Rethinking Life and Death, One World, The Ethics of What We Eat (with Jim Mason) and The Point of View of the Universe (with Katarzyna de Lazari-Radek. My writings have appeared in more than 25 languages. I was born in Melbourne, Australia, in 1946, and educated at the University of Melbourne and the University of Oxford. After teaching in England, the United States, and Australia, in 1999 I became Ira W. DeCamp Professor of Bioethics in the University Center for Human Values at Princeton University. I am now only teaching at Princeton for the Fall semester. I spend part of each year doing research and writing in Melbourne, so that Renata and I can spend time with our three daughters and four grandchildren. We also enjoy hiking, and I surf.” Singer discusses: non-human animal consideration; reasons people make changes in diet regarding animal welfare; and sentientism.
Keywords: Animal Liberation Now, Australia, Chinese, Japanese, octopus, oyster, Peter Singer, Princeton University, Pythagoras, Sentientism, vegan, vegetarian.
Conversation with Professor Peter Singer on Meat-Like Foods and Sentientism: Ira W. DeCamp Professor of Bioethics, Princeton University (2)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Things have really ramped up in the last couple decades in terms of consideration of animal welfare. Although, there is mass killing of non-human animals, certainly, in factory farms and elsewhere. However, I think with a lot of technological advancements; the conversations seem to be happening a lot more. Things just happening around meat grown through stem cells. Things of this nature. Has advancement of technology, in your opinion, changed some of the consideration of non-human animal welfare, simply for the fac that it may not be necessary to include as much suffering if you can get the same product in another manner that is more efficient?
Prof. Peter Singer: I am hopeful that cellular agriculture and plant-based analogues to meat are going to do that. I don’t think they’ve done that to a really significant scale. I think that’s largey because of cost. They are still more expensive than the standard meast products. If you buy an impossible burger or a beyond meat burger, it is going to cost you a little more than the ordinary beef burger. It may be just as good, but it is not clearly better. So, it needs to come down in price, I think, and then we need to get these other products that people are producing. There are chicken products, now, coming on the market, in Singapore anyway. They are selling chicken nuggets. I think they will start to come on the market here too. It is not as though you have been unable to nourish yourself because these high-tech meat-like products. You could always live and cheaply on plant proteins like lentils and beans of various sorts, and tofu, of course, is a product that has been around for millennia and takes a lot of different kinds of flavourings. I think it works well in a lot of dishes, particularly Chinese dishes as this is where it comes from – and Japanese dishes. So, you didn’t really need it. But some people wanted the taste in their mouth or the chewiness of meat. I hope these products will get cheaper and widely sold and eaten.
Jacobsen: To the brass tax of the considerations about making those changes, what have been, realistically, the main reasons people have made those changes in their diet or their buying patterns, purchasing patterns?
Singer: I think there are three major factors as to why people are moving away from meat in their diet. Some, like me, are primarily concerned over what we are doing to animals and you don’t want to participate in this ruthless exploitation of literally tens of millions of animals giving them nightmarish lives without any consideration for their wellbeing. That’s been one big factor. The second is we are increasingly aware of is the contribution of meat to climate change. Climate change, itself, wasn’t an issue until the mid-1980s, then it will still focused on fossil fuels for a long time. It is only in the last 10 or 20 years that people have been more aware of the role meat plays in accelerating climate change. That’s the second factor. The third factor is health, I would divide the health factor into two. On the one hand, there are people who think, “I will be healthier if I don’t eat meat”. That is certainly a factor for many, many people. You live better. You feel better. You lower risk of cancer of the digestive system and of heart disease. I think there is good evidence of all of those benefits now. That is a big factor. There is also the public health aspect of it, not just what you eat, but what other eat – because factory farms are a great place for growing new viruses. We have alreay had one major pandemic come out of a factory farm. That was the Swine Flu pandemic, which preceded the Coronavirus. It didn’t kill as many people as the Coronavrus. But it killed a lot. The big risk is the next virus to come out from animals crossing to us is that it is grown out of a factory farm with so many animals stressed together. Humans go in and out to taker the animals out to kill them or to do routine maintenance. It could be both highly contagious as Coronavirus, but much more deadly. If that happens, we will be in a very serious problem. That’s a good public health reason for wanting to not take part in factory farmed products as well.
Jacobsen: There’s a term “Sentientist” floating around. To myself, it matches, sort of, my own ethical considerations. I beieve you identify as such. How does this term – this concept – encapsulate a lot of the ethical thinking for you right now?
Singer: Well, look, the point is a sentient being, in the sense we’re using here, is on capable of suffering and feeling pain – and, hopefully, capable of experiencing pleasure and joy as well. But certainly, the capacity to feel pain is part of what it is to be a sentient being. It is a being with conscious experiences. The point of saying that you’re a sentientist is to say that you think that any being capable of feeling pain should have its interests given weight. I would say given similar weight to similar beings with similar interests. Beings that might have a similar interest. If an animal feels a certain amount of pain through – let’s say – being hit, then that is just as bad or equal to hitting a human being and causing the human being a similar amount of pain. The term “sentientist”, we talk about being vegan or vegetarian. They get termed if they eat animals or animal products. But it might not be the case that all animals are sentient. A good example of a non-sentient animal may be an oyster. Oysters have very simple nervous systems. They are unable to move away from sources of danger. So, it is arguable that they would have been less likely to evolve a capacity to feel pain, given that it wouldn’t do them much good as opposed to animals who can move away from sources of pain. So, if you are a sentientist, you might say, “I don’t eat birds and mammals, vertebrates generally. I don’t eat fish.” Perhaps, there is an invertebrate that is clearly sentient is an octopus, which is a mollusc. You might say, “If an animal is not sentient, then I don’t object to eating it, because you can’t cause it to suffer or feel pain. It doesn’t have that capacity.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Conversation with Mizuki Tomaiwa on Youth, Giftedness, and Intelligence: Member, OLYMPIQ Society (2)
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/08/15
Abstract
Mizuki Tomaiwa was born in 2000 in Japan. She is an American college student with an interest in the biomedical field, psychiatry, and gifted education. She respects Leonardo da Vinci, Bach, Liszt, and her parents. She earned an I.Q. of 183+ (S.D. 16) on the Cattell CFIT. Tomaiwa discusses: classmates; father; mother; Buddhism; nature; common experience of suppression in Japan; loneliness; recommendation to a government agency; Langara College; loneliness; love for all things; geniuses; tutoring; high intelligence; Leonardo Da Vinci; history; government; Good.
Keywords: Buddhism, giftedness, intelligence, Japan, Langara College, Leonardo Da Vinci, Mizuki Tomaiwa, OLYMPIQ Society, youth.
Conversation with Mizuki Tomaiwa on Youth, Giftedness, and Intelligence: Member, OLYMPIQ Society (2)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: How was disagreeing with classmates in Japan perceived by the classmates?
Mizuki Tomaiwa: I think my classmates thought I was strange.
I could not accept rules that lacked rationality or that I felt made no sense. I was a floater in class and in the classroom because I did what I thought was right.
Jacobsen: How did your father encourage discussion?
Tomaiwa: My father was always asking me questions.
He encouraged me to think about social issues, what is needed in the world, ethics, and other unanswered questions.
Jacobsen: What were the kinds of affirmations from your mother?
Tomaiwa: My mother was always positive about my challenges, my goals, and the things I wanted to try. And she would always say, “That’s good. Why don’t you try it?”
She has never been negative about what I want to do.
Jacobsen: What is the branch or type of Buddhism for the family?
Tomaiwa:nI am a Buddhist, but my spirit is not affected by the differences among detailed sects.
Jacobsen: Does being surrounded by nature influence personal views on life?
Tomaiwa: Nature is beautiful and most calculated. It is always there and formed for several reasons.
I believe that by surrounding ourselves with nature, we can notice its beauty and get ideas and answers from it.
Jacobsen: Is this a common experience of being suppressed in Japanese schools and culture for gifted and talented youth?
Tomaiwa: While there is supposed to be a climate of respect for individual ideas, as in North American schools, there is a climate in Japanese schools that does not tolerate ideas that differ from those of others.
A student may have a great talent in the eyes of a prominent figure in his or her field, but no one in the student’s environment is aware of it, and the student may have experienced denial from the adults around him or her.
Being unique is inherently a positive thing, but in Japan it has a strong negative connotation.
Jacobsen: How did you transfer the loneliness and energy to other pursuits if at all? A transference of psychological and emotional energy given the lack of support and camaraderie from peers.
Tomaiwa: Loneliness was present throughout my elementary, junior high, and high school years. However, meeting people in my field of interest has gradually dissipated my loneliness and given me confidence and motivation.
In our encounters with people, we sometimes have fateful encounters. We never know when that will come, so it is important to always follow our heart, even if we feel lonely.
Jacobsen: Given your individuality and experience, what would be your recommendation to Japan’s Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science, and Technology?
Tomaiwa: First, I want them to know that there are many children out there who have talent but it is not reflected in their school performance for a variety of reasons.
I hope that through regular meetings, gifted children’s intellectual curiosity can be satisfied by continuing to give them tasks that are just barely challenging enough for them to complete.
Jacobsen: Congratulations on earning qualification at Langara College in Canada, I am aware of the institution. I used to be a part of the Canadian Alliance of Student Associations on 3 of the 5 committees, when I was in student government. I believe Langara may have been a part of that alliance. Why choose Langara?
Tomaiwa: I would like to preface this by saying that I am currently studying Biomedical Science at Arizona State University in the US, so I am not studying at Langara College.
I chose Langara College because it had an ESL course to learn English and I was told that it was the most difficult course in Vancouver, so I wanted to give it a try.
Jacobsen: To others struggling with loneliness in adolescence, or in adulthood, what would be advice for coping with them? Sometimes, aloneness is a lifetime sentence for some people. Certainly, I note a global cultural tendency towards anomie.
Tomaiwa: I hope you will never give up because there will always be someone who understands you.
For example, seek connections through social networking sites or send a message to the ideal person you want to be.
That and the times when you feel lonely are really hard. You may not even trust yourself anymore.
That’s when you need to keep taking action and never give up.
Jacobsen: How does this “deep love for all things” in geniuses express itself outwardly?
Tomaiwa: When the process is underway, people may not yet feel anything.
When it is completed or nearing its goal, people have more opportunities to come into contact with it, to feel it in their hearts, and to make their lives more convenient or otherwise advance humanity.
Jacobsen: As a tutor, what methods tend to work for below average students, average students, and above average students?
Tomaiwa: I recommend that you work through the textbook and the accompanying problem sets in terms of building a foundation.
Estimate a longer period of time and encourage repetition.
Once the foundation is in place, try to understand the more difficult problems. Try to understand it more quickly and deeply the second time than the first time.
Jacobsen: What did the February, 2021 discovery of very high intelligence do for you?
Tomaiwa: I remember that it became clear to me why I could not adapt in Japanese schools.
Jacobsen: Why is Leonardo Da Vinci the greatest genius to you?
Tomaiwa: It is not possible for everyone to observe everything from multiple perspectives.
I would like to emulate the attitude of finding beauty and trying to understand it from the aspect of natural science such as mathematics and physics.
Jacobsen: What are things people feel frustration and anger towards to drive history?
Tomaiwa: They may feel and act out of anger or disappointment when they feel disadvantaged or their lives are in danger.
Jacobsen: What are examples of governments not investing in education enough?
Tomaiwa: I was born in Japan and educated in Japan all my life, so I will give you a Japanese example.
In my experience, I do not think that the Japanese government invests enough in education. It is because there is not enough investment in students and teachers.
The Japanese government does not provide the right level of education for each individual student, nor does it pay its teachers an adequate wage for their work. Their overwork, mental illness, and turnover due to too few teachers are the result of the Japanese government’s failure to invest in education.
Jacobsen: What are the attributes of God?
Tomaiwa: Beliefs about the attributes of God vary widely depending on people’s cultural, religious, and philosophical perspectives, but I believe it is every “mind” people have.
For example, in Japan, people sincerely pray for health and safety when they visit shrines.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/08/15
Abstract
Petros studied Philosophy at KU Leuven and plans to become a Professor. He wants to contribute academically in Philosophy, Theology and Biblical Studies. Beyond that, in the spirit of homo universalis, he wants to produce a large set of works of art across different domains, such as compositions, paintings, poems and short stories. He enjoys abstract thinking and creativity, and thinks using both is key to excelling in philosophy, science and art. He has also scored extremely high on some serious IQ tests. Most importantly, he is a Christian and wants to live according to God’s will and spread the good news of the Gospel. He is currently a full member of some High IQ Societies such as: Mensa Greece, Elite member (>=160 IQ sd 15) of the Grand IQ Society, Myriad High IQ Society, ISI-Society, Catholiq High IQ Society, Nebula High IQ Society, Prudentia High IQ Society, Atlantiq High IQ Society. He is also the President and Founder of Quasar Quorum, a new High IQ society for >=150 IQ sd 15. (https://sites.google.com/view/quasarquorum) Gkionis discusses: Philosophy at KU Leuven; Biblical Studies, Philosophy, and Theology; creative productions; high-range test scores; God’s Will and the Good News of the Gospel; high-I.Q society membership; Quasar Quorum; poverty; “regime of the colonels”; philosophy and Christianity; philosophical temperament; isolation; M.A. program; goal for 2 Ph.D.s; thoughts compared to individuals with more ordinary intelligence; the great thinkers; Jesus Christ; Latin Trinitarianism; the Trinity; the value of science; the limits of science; scientism; consequentialism; Modified Divine Command Theory; Virtue Ethics and the New Testament; adjustments to God’s essence and God’s commandments; postmodernism and premodernism for a social philosophy; the polymath ideal of the Enlightenment; Christian theology and politics; rank ordering the likelihood of correctness for Dualism, Subjective Idealism, and Neutral Monism; A.I.; the extreme nihilist phase; God as the locus of meaning; small meanings; Systematic Philosophical Theology; his ideas as non-heretical; and the New Heaven and the New Earth.
Keywords: Christianity, consequentialism, God’s Will, Jesus Christ, Modified Divine Command Theory, Petros Gkionis, Quasar Quorum, Systematic Philosophical Theology, Theology, Virtue Ethics, William Lane Craig.
Conversation with Petros Gkionis on Christian Theology, God’s Will, and William Lane Craig: President & Founder, Quasar Quorum (2)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: We’re back! I have more questions (always). Why study Philosophy at KU Leuven?
Petros Gkionis: Thanks for the questions Scott, and for the opportunity you give me to publish my answers, it means a lot to me. I wanted to study Philosophy and become a Professor in it since my teenage years, I didn’t care too much about the history of philosophy but I did and still want to contribute in Analytic Philosophy. I chose Leuven because it is highly ranked (at the time it was around top 30 in the world for Philosophy and top 70–80 in general according to QS rankings.), affordable (at least for EU citizens), and offered classes in both continental and analytic philosophy (although maybe they have a bit more in continental, although finding a program that has more analytic stuff and is not super expensive and is highly ranked is not that easy) in their BA program and provide a large degree of freedom of choosing classes in their MA program.
Jacobsen: What in Biblical Studies, Philosophy, and Theology most interests you?
Gkionis: In Philosophy I wanna specialise in Analytic Philosophy of Religion, and have maybe Philosophy of Science as a field of interest, also I wanna contribute in more general Metaphysics or Epistemology. In Theology, mainly Analytic and Systematic Theology which goes with Analytic Philosophy, and in Biblical Studies mainly exegesis of all kinds different stuff. My interest in all of them changes depending on the time period, things like the Trinity, the Nature of Christ or certain properties of God may interest me at some points, I may look more into the afterlife or hermeneutics for Ezekiel for example at other moments.
Jacobsen: Out of compositions, paintings, poems, and short stories, what ones most interest you?
Gkionis: Compositions and paintings maybe. I like the process of creating them, it includes a lot of philosophical thinking but also intuition and imagination. Creating is a pretty interesting process and sometimes I create just for this process in itself. A lot of the stuff I’ve made I haven’t published online, it needs to be digitized or some of it is from my pre Christian era, so it has edgy stuff that may better stay unpublished haha.
Jacobsen: What are the serious high-range tests that scores were the highest for you? Any comments on both the tests and the test creators?
Gkionis: I haven’t done too many, I will do more when I find time. I got 163 IQ sd 15 on Vision, 160 IQ sd 15 on Fiqure, and 150 IQ sd 15 on Mathema. I prefer fast visual multiple choice, that’s where I got the highest possible score on Mensa’s FRT and my 160 on Figure. Untimed tests can be nice but they don’t really measure intelligence that well because one can literally spend months on them, and people have done that according to their own sayings. I’m way too lazy or bored to spend too much time on a test, I prefer doing philosophy/theology/art stuff. I have made the mistake of not spending enough time on the tests I’ve done, because I could have gotten higher scores. On verbal tests or items I can easily find multiple different answers and then the whole thing is debating which one to chose, while in the numerical ones sometimes its pretty hard to find just one in some items, I was better at numerical items back in high school, I forgot some of the math one needs to solve them since, which brings me to another point I have: That culture fair tests are better at measuring intelligence, because if they actually do what they supposed to do then they measure actual intelligence, rather than intelligence + knowledge. It’s fluid intelligence that is closer to what actual intelligence is rather than crystallised intelligence. I doubt I became dumber (of course there are other explanations but I will try to keep it short) than what I was in high school, I’m too young for that, my brain supposedly developed even more since, so how come it takes me longer to solve these numerical items or I solve less, it’s just lack of knowledge (both propositional and know-how) and not doing this sort of thing anymore. But time doesn’t even matter in the untimed ones, so how come this is an IQ test? Hahaha. Ok, I don’t want this to sound like a sour grapes thing, because its not, I have 0 problems when it comes to that with either those who score better than me or the test creators, keep kicking butt and keep producing great stuff, I just mean that if I design my own tests, I may try to make them more culture fair and fluid intelligence based than crystallised intelligence based.
Jacobsen: As a Christian, what is God’s Will and the precise good news of the Gospel?
Gkionis: God’s Will is whatever God wills. From Scripture we know that He wants us to trust Him and live in accordance to His will, which means to love one another, to do morally good things in general, to not sin and to repent when we sin which implies that we should try not to repeat these sins and to ask God for forgiveness, and overall to have a proper relationship with Him. We have to be born again and live for God and not for our own or somebody else’s desires. As it says in 2 Corinthians 5:17 “ Therefore if anyone is in Christ, this person is a new creation; the old things passed away; behold, new things have come”. God is perfect, all good, all loving and gave us our life as a gift and even salvation and eternal life as gifts, we didn’t earn them with our own works, since we are sinners, all of us who are moral agents and not super early in being moral agents have sinned, these sins make us guilty, but through the blood of our Lord Jesus Christ the burden of the sins is washed. We just have to accept Him and trust Him. (of course faith without works is dead as in James 2:14–16). Therefore trusting Him is good. Gospel in Greek means good news or good message, the phrase good news of the gospel is based on verses like Mark 1:15 “The time is fulfilled, and the kingdom of God has come near; repent, and believe in the good news”, it refers to the fact that the Father resurrected the Son and we can obtain salvation by living in Christ. This is a very important message, its way way more important than the other stuff I’ve said in these interviews, and I pray that all humanity will accept it. Read or listen to the audiobook of the Gospel of Luke if you do not know where to start. Glory to God.
Jacobsen: With full membership in “Mensa Greece, Elite member (>=160 IQ sd 15) of the Grand IQ Society, Myriad High IQ Society, ISI-Society, Catholiq High IQ Society, Nebula High IQ Society, Prudentia High IQ Society, Atlantiq High IQ Society. He is also the President and Founder of Quasar Quorum, a new High IQ society for >=150 IQ sd 15. (https://sites.google.com/view/quasarquorum)”, what one means the most?
Gkionis: Maybe Quasar Quorum because I founded it, by the way I also recently founded the Extreme High IQ Society for >= 160 IQ sd 15. (https://sites.google.com/view/extreme-high-iq-society) “Quasar Quorum” sounds like a cult so I went for a simpler, less freaky and easier to remember name this time, both societies will remain.
Jacobsen: What was the inspiration for founding Quasar Quorum?
Gkionis: A lot of the older High IQ societies are dead, with no functional websites or emails that don’t get answered, there didn’t seem to be much around the 150 sd 15 range either. Mensa’s 130 cut-off seemed too low to me, it’s not genius level, it’s just regular smart, from my experience not much interesting happened in the few meetings I attended so I was looking for something else, something maybe more intellectual. Others have tried this also in the past and it didn’t work, maybe I should create more societies and ask for an IQ score and something else like a philosophy paper, maybe this filtering will get us somewhere, but I don’t expect much, you can find talented people online anyway.
Jacobsen: How were these large families in poverty making their way into the world, eventually?
Gkionis: Lots of the kids didn’t go to middle school because they couldn’t afford buying books or bus tickets, some started working early, others later immigrated, I have some cousins in America and Australia because of that.
The economy got better in the 70s and 80s and some of them became middle class, the “extended family” thing Greeks have where parents help their kids even when they are adults and the other way around or how maybe people help siblings, cousins and nephews maybe helped.
Jacobsen: What was the “regime of the colonels” like?
Gkionis: I wasn’t there to have much to say, but if one was too left wing for them they could easily get in trouble. There was censorship, propaganda and limit of some freedoms also, like more than 3 people hanging out from what I’ve been told.
Jacobsen: When did becoming a philosopher and a Christian start to integrate as major factors in self-identity?
Gkionis: I started thinking of myself as a philosopher around 15, I was doing philosophy before that age too but was I seeing myself as someone with multiple interests, one of which was philosophy, before realizing that philosophy is the real stuff and what I should spend all my time doing. I was not a Christian back then but when I became one again at around 19, I realized that this is the most important thing in all existence or all possible existence and dedicated myself to that. It seemed insane to me at that point that people would think they are Christians but not care much about it, this is where the meaning of the world was, this was the actual real stuff. I never stopped philosophizing though, I just turned my interests from more general metaphysics and philosophy of language or logic and metaethics to Philosophy of Religion.
Jacobsen: What seems like the source of this philosophical temperament in you?
Gkionis: People around me when I was growing up weren’t philosophizing much or at all, it’s something I started doing at some point in childhood, maybe it’s partly genetic, maybe the fact that I was isolated and living in my own head kinda helped. I don’t remember being young and seeing, hearing or reading something philosophical and then starting to do the same thing, I think I kinda started doing it on my own.
Jacobsen: Did you spend a lot of time in the library as a teenager with the increasing isolation?
Gkionis: I spent a lot of time on my phone reading books, watching videos, browsing the internet, listening to music or audiobooks and writing stuff down, I didn’t use it to communicate with others back then, now it’s different. I also spent way more time just in my head thinking also. Most of the books at my school’s library didn’t seem that interesting to me, so I just downloaded whatever I found interesting and browsed it during class or at home. I was too lazy to go to my local non-school library also because I had thousands of sources for free at home thanks to the web. I started going to the library more in university, mainly to write papers, but I also started reading more physical books, rather than from my e-reader or screen. In middle or high school, I didn’t do much homework, because I had other interests, so I didn’t go to the library for stuff like that.
Jacobsen: What is the current M.A. program for you? Is it a thesis track?
Gkionis: Thesis for 24 ECTS credits + 6 6 ECTS credits classes that include final papers, some exams and presentations.
Jacobsen: Why 2 Ph.D.s rather than one, or three?
Gkionis: If I get paid to work on two broad topics for a couple years, that may give me the opportunity to publish in serious journals in more than one field, plus it may make getting an academic job easier. I could have wanted to try for a third one also if there was another field I really cared about, of course some people would freak out and say stuff like “why do you keep doing PhDs, why don’t you get a tenure-track job”, but that makes it funnier. I doubt I can likely get funding for 3 PhDs, but if I could I may do it just because it’s over the top, but it has to be about something serious and it shouldn’t waste my time from doing serious stuff in Philosophy, Theology and Biblical Studies. I guess these are 3 fields, so maybe I can haha.
Jacobsen: How did your thoughts compare to individuals with more ordinary intelligence?
Gkionis: People with very high IQs think faster and more reasonably than those with ordinary intelligence. There is also more quality to their thoughts, they can figure out stuff others can’t, find solutions to problem others don’t see, see more patterns, understand differences or similarities better, etc. That’s how I was. I was also very creative, but I didn’t take that into consideration when I compared intelligence. I was having regular conversations with adults since I was super young and was noticing errors in their thinking, not in terms of factual knowledge, not the cringe thing were the smart kid on tv shows corrects someone because they made some random mistake about the history of Paris or what cars are made of or distance between planets or whatever, I could just see whether the conclusions followed from what they were saying earlier or whether they weren’t making much sense. I remember for example being super super young and being taught what “half” was, so immediately I thought what was the “half of the half” or the “half of the half of the half”, so I kinda discovered 1/4 and 1/8, etc, I remember saying to adults that I wanted half of half of X and they were kinda confused.
Jacobsen: How did it compare to the “great thinkers”?
Gkionis: It was way closer to them than to average, sometimes better, especially on some topics like philosophy.
Jacobsen: How was Jesus Christ (Yeshua Ben Yosef) one of the greatest philosophers?
Gkionis: I didn’t claim that He was one of the greatest philosophers, I claimed that He was one of the greatest geniuses. Based on the information we have from scripture I wouldn’t call Him a philosopher. He wasn’t producing arguments to conclude stuff in metaphysics, epistemology, logic etc. (there were some arguments mentioned to others in dialogues, but these are not enough to imply one is a philosopher). Jesus being omniscient, (regardless of whether He fully accessed that knowledge) He didn’t really need to philosophize to figure stuff out, He was also not sent on earth for that, but to save humanity. Jesus fits the context of a religious figure of the Second Temple era Judaism way more than the context of being a philosopher. Some have tried to argue that He was some kind of a revolutionary stoic/cynic philosopher, but serious scholars don’t take such views seriously, there is no evidence for stuff like that apart from bs apocrypha gospels sometimes written hundreds of years after His death and in fact there is evidence for the contrary from the early sources. People make all kinds of crap about Jesus, like Him being a magician or traveling to India and becoming a buddhist, these are all based on garbage like attacking Christianity or making money/a new sect and no serious scholar agrees with stuff like that. How was He one of the greatest geniuses? I guess being God helps. Why did I mention that he was the greatest genius in the previous interview? To piss off the anti-Christians hahaha. Not really, I said it because it’s true.
Jacobsen: What form of Trinitarianism makes the most sense to you?
Gkionis: Some form of Social Trinitarianism. It is way closer to the God of the Bible, who loves people, hates sins, makes claims, and in general has a relationship with people and interacts with the world, than some abstract mode of the Latin Trinitarianism. In Social Trinitarianism the persons of the Trinity are taken to be actual persons, so they have things like their own beliefs (for example the Son believes that He is not the Father, but the Father doesn’t), center of consciousness, knowledge, etc. Some think it implies polytheism but it doesn’t, there is one Divine nature and one Trinity.
Jacobsen: What makes Latin Trinitarianism incoherent in a way?
Gkionis: Bad metaphysics. It is based on Aristotelian’ metaphysics and physics about stuff like the “prime mover” who has no properties, through the interpretation of Aquinas. This view of God says that God doesn’t really exist, but subsists, and is simple with no properties, people can’t know what He is but only what He is not etc. Bad metaphysics about the persons of the Trinity also, Latin Trinitarianism seems to take person’s to be something like modes (intrinsic properties, relations, states of affairs), rather than what philosophers of mind take “persons” to usually be (something with an intentionality, center of consciousness, knowledge etc). These modes I’m not sure if they are that compatible with their view of Divine Simplicity either. Overall bad metaphysical views based on Aristotle that have bad implications in epistemology too. This view of God I don’t think it’s that compatible with that the Bible implies about Him either, given that He interacts with the world, communicates with humans, loves them etc. Some people may think that the Latin version is more sophisticated and therefore what educated Christians should accept, but it’s not because it’s not possible, while the Social one is. Christians should normally argue against the Aristotelean “prime mover”, since that’s incompatible with our God, rather than turn it into their God by having weird views about the Trinity. Craig says the Latin version was a reaction to Neoplatonism, I haven’t looked this sort of stuff up, but that could be the case.
Jacobsen: Why is the Trinity regard as a “mystery” by some theologians?
Gkionis: Some of them think it’s impossible for humans to understand how there is one God but both the Father and the Son and the Holy Spirit are God. I don’t think it is though. If one uses 2 definitions for the word “is”, so the “is of identity” and the “is of predication“ and 2 definitions of the word “God”, one being something like “person/member of the Trinity” or “has Divine Nature” for statements like “The Father is God” or “Jesus is God” (with the “is” of predication) and the other definition being “Father, Son and Holy Spirit” or “The totality of the Trinity” for statements like “God is the Father and the Son and the Holy Spirit” (with the “is” of identity), one could easily see how there is no contradiction or mystery between the Trinitarian statements.
Jacobsen: What is the value in science?
Gkionis: It’s conclusions can be used to produce other stuff, like medications or bridges or toasters . It is also a semi sophisticated method for trying to justify some views about the physical world, I just don’t think that these are always justified or that the conclusions always correspond to reality. That has to do with the nature of the world and the limitations of our knowledge and abilities.
Jacobsen: What are the limits of science with Feyerabend?
Gkionis: I meant that I understand the limit of science and that I have a similar scientific anti realism in some ways to Feyerabend, not that we have the same or similar views about science’s limits.
Jacobsen: What are your critiques for Feyerabend?
Gkionis: I gotta find my notes or the power point for a presentation I did because its been more than 2,5 years since I read against method lastly, but there were some parts of it that were I think he was trying to describe how science developed and somewhat argue for something and these were neither good philosophy nor good history in the way serious historians do history to accurately describe the past. I will search for the specifics and maybe re read and re criticize the book when I find time, but in general I have this criticism for other philosophers too. Like Nietsche’s geneology of morality, its neither good history, since it says bs about the origin of Christian morality, ignoring the context of near eastern religions and kinda making shit up or who knows maybe basing it on bad sources that no serious religious studies scholar would accept, nor good philosophy since some of the things he claimed didn’t follow and he missed some stuff like the possibility of this morality and God objectively existing and the implications this would have.
Jacobsen: What is scientism, properly understood?
Gkionis: There are different versions of it, a naive version is that only thorugh science one can obtain knowledge. This is obviously false, one can obtain knowledge through other stuff like philosophy or just using their senses and having a properly functioning mind. Not necessarily knowledge of the same proposition, just knowledge in general. Another dumb version is that science can solve philosophy questions or that philosophy questions should be replaced with scientific ones and we should just solve those with science and abandon philosophy. For example, abandon why X is bad and just do neuroscience about why people believe that X is bad. The problem with stuff like that is that these are different questions, why people believe something to be bad doesn’t have much to do with whether objectively it is bad, so scientism is not really helping anything there, it doesn’t answer the philosophy question. There are other versions of it like not understanding the limits of science and thinking that it produces certain knowledge, that it can’t have mistakes, that its some certain process to “better truth” or whatever. One can look at it more sociologically also and think of some versions of scientism as the worship and misunderstanding of science or the use of it as some kind of a religion, where people think of crap like meaning being based in the size of the universe or some purpose being assigned to humans based on evolution, they just misunderstand science and assign random crap to its conclusions. These neckbeards that think that they are super rational and scientific, and that science disproved God also fall under scientism. Science tries to find stuff about the physical world, God (excluding the human nature of Jesus) is not physical and therefore part of the physical world, they didn’t disprove shit. Anyway, all of its versions are problematic. Society is full of this shit, but I guess as long as they make fun of young earth creationists they are satisfied that they are super rational and smart hahaha. People thinking that them liking random stuff about physical world is “science” is also scientism and I guess cringe quotes like “science is the real poetry” or “equations are the only form of absolute truth” are too.
Jacobsen: Who founded the concept of scientism, as a descriptor?
Gkionis: No idea.
Jacobsen: What are the ways in which consequentialism is humorous or a joke compared to Deontology and Virtue Ethics in the realm of Normative Ethics?
Gkionis: Consequentialism can justify all kinds of immoral (not for consequentialism) crap as long as the outcome is good. Not everything, I’m not naïve about it, but in some versions of it its good to even kill a random guy to save 4. I wouldn’t call it humorous, but I would call it worse than deontology, in which usually killing that one guy is morally wrong.
Jacobsen: Could you explain how the Modified Divine Command Theory, particularly in the style of William Lane Craig, helps to avoid Euthyphro’s Dilemma in metaethics?
Gkionis: I think he said that if the options are not two but more than two then it’s not really a dilemma. And that modified Divine Command Theory implies there is at least a third option and therefore the dilemma is false. So, rather than having something like “ethics being arbitrary because they are true just because God wills them, or ethics being independent from God therefore God being limited” as the two only options there is the option that true moral propositions are dependent on God’s nature and commandments. There are different versions of the DCT, but as long as one of them is possible then that implies that the Euthyphro’s dilemma is false. I think a version that Craig argued for implies that moral goods are based on God’s nature, because His nature is what defines the “good” and moral obligations are based on His commandments.
Jacobsen: What exegesis of the New Testament argues for Virtue Ethics?
Gkionis: Lots of them, “Jesus and Virtue Ethics” by Daniel Harrington and James Keenan has some.
Jacobsen: What is the core argument of Modified Divine Command Theory of Dr. William Lane Craig?
Gkionis: I would have to see his texts to see exactly how he phrases it, but I think its something like God’s nature is what determines good to be based on what God is, as a the greatest conceivable being, which is a better standard than a finite being. And he rejects the idea of “the Good” as an abstract object independent of God, he says that good is property of objects like persons, therefore it can be grounded on God who is personal, but not on the “Good itself” since that is not a person. Not sure if that’s a good argument against the “good in itself” thing, but it can be replaced by something else. For example: If a version of DCT is true then good being grounded on the “Good itself” is false, and one can just argue for the existence of God based on a combination of arguments.
Jacobsen: What might be the “adjustments” on God’s essence and God’s commandments with this framework?
Gkionis: It comes down to what you take “duties” and “obligations” to be, whether they are separate or the same, and what of that is based on God’s commandments and what on God’s nature. Its possible that some obligations or duties are based on God’s nature and others (those being contingent) on the commandments or God’s will. But overall, his view is very good.
Jacobsen: What would be the “combo of postmodernism and premodernism” for a social philosophy?
Gkionis: Premodernism would mainly be about God being in the center of those views or of people’s life’s. That sometimes happened in the premodern era. Before the modern era bullshit with the Deist version of God and secular humanism took over, which eventually lead to the cotemporary nihilism, narcissism, and atheism. Postmodernism because we don’t need one grand narrative to explain everything, we can work through different frameworks. Marxism for example is a form of modernism, it uses this class struggle thing to explain all history, and it ends up getting some stuff wrong because of that. Instead we can do a bit of Marxism here, a bit of empirical sociology there, get some analytic philosophy there as well and that could produce something closer to truth in terms of social philosophy, but not only there, its useful for all kinds of stuff, like other fields of philosophy or science. This is not in contradiction with the thing I said about premodernism btw.
Jacobsen: Why is the “polymath ideal” of Enlightenment modernism a “not bad” idea?
Gkionis: If people have a good grasp of multiple academic disciplines they can more easily combine them to discover or create more stuff. There are reasons why it is good to specialize in something, but if beyond that specializations one can grasp a bunch of other things and make connections between them that can benefit. Somebody who is both an A.I text analysis expert and a biblical scholar can for example use their A.I skills to analyze the biblical text, and maybe can more easily communicate between both other biblical scholars and A.I people, and possibly even be a link between them. If you have one person that knows a lot about A.I and almost nothing about the bible and one that knows a lot of A.I and not much about the bible, they may not work as effectively as if they would if they had this double expert with them. Cognitive science tried to do something similar. Beyond academic stuff, I find the the process of creating art very interesting, so I wanna be involved in stuff like this also, I can easily combine that with my philosophy stuff and produce philosophical art for example. All of those are thanks to being polymathic.
Jacobsen: If another Christian from a different interpretive lens on political philosophy disagreed with the idea of a “classless, stateless, moneyless, Christian society with an emphasis on Christian values”, what might be a reframe or correction of the interpretation of Christian theology within politics for them?
Gkionis: The bible doesn’t include a clear political system for Gentiles or Hebrews to follow here on earth, because that is not the goal of it. There is some stuff in the Old Testament about specific legal laws and how to run society in the Mosaic covenant (it also includes some moral or ceremony stuff, its not just legal but it also has legal), which is between Hebrews and God, even that I would say is not a complete political system in itself. This has led to Christians having different views about how to run society and what political system to have based on different passages and different interpretations of them plus doing a bit of philosophy/sociology etc. I would not say that it has to be necessarily Christian anarchism, in the sense that its probably not an obligation, but I do think that this could be a nice way for Christians to live according to Jesus’ teachings found in the Gospels. Some of these passages are: Acts 5:29: “But Peter and the apostles answered, “We must obey God rather than men.””, Galatians 3:28 “There is neither Jew nor Greek, there is neither slave nor free, there is neither male nor female; for you are all one in Christ Jesus.” Luke 3:11 “And he would answer and say to them, “The one who has two tunics is to share with the one who has none; and the one who has food is to do likewise.””. These are about trusting the God rather than humans, (so possibly no need for human government), about humans being equal with each other in value and one Christ, and about sharing items and food. By the way I said “Hebrews” when I mentioned the Mosaic covenant, because that term includes all the 12 tribes of Israel, which is who the covenant is with, while the translation in Galatians 3:28 of “οὐκ ἔνι Ἰουδαῖος οὐδὲ Ἕλλην” mentions the tribe of Judah and Greeks only, that’s why it uses the word “Jew” for “Ἰουδαῖος”, although the passage is about all people being one in Christ.
Jacobsen: If you had to rank order likelihood of correctness for Dualism, Subjective Idealism, and Neutral Monism, what would be the ordering?
Gkionis: Not sure where to base that sort of likelihood, I can argue that materialism is unlikely because personal identity continues in the afterlife even if the brain is destroyed and because the materialist models of the resurrection are bad. Dualism and subjective idealism seem ok to me, unless one buys into Berkley style stuff against the material substance that dualism implies. Maybe Neutral Monism, or thinking that all things are just one substance that is neither mind nor matter may seem the most unlikely, but it kinda depends on what this substance would be, because it could be something that does exactly what mind or matter supposedly does. If I had to rank them I would do Subjective Idealism, Dualism, Neutral Monism, Materialism (added materialism as a bonus), but I don’t see a huge problem with the first 3.
Jacobsen: Why have some automation with A.I.?
Gkionis: Automation with A.I can kick ass if done correctly because we would not have to waste our time with crap and we can spend our time on more interesting stuff. It can both make the decisions and execute them. A.I could become extremely more sophisticated than humans, we can also program it to be super moral and caring and whatever.
Jacobsen: What is A.I. to you?
Gkionis: It can mean a bunch of stuff, these days it means advanced software trained under the large chunks of data that generates stuff, it can also mean something made by humans and has consciousness, or something more technical about neural networks or whatever. I don’t think Chatgpt is conscious, and the sort of A.I I talked about when I mentioned that it could automate stuff and make decisions for society doesn’t have to be conscious either.
Jacobsen: What happened during the “extreme nihilist” phase for you?
Gkionis: I thought that similar to how “is doesn’t imply ought” that the “ontology of the world doesn’t imply objective meaning”. Based on that I was a nihilist because I thought that meaning wasn’t possible (in any possible world). It didn’t have to do with death or life being short, because I was thinking that I didn’t know what will happen after death and that there are all kinds of possibilities. I also thought there is no objective morality or purpose, so I was living like an asshole, because I didn’t care about others or myself that much, I didn’t value stuff, I was immoral. That in combination with how I was living in my head and was thinking of stuff like because I couldn’t know if determinism is true (I don’t don’t accept determinism, I’m just not crazy about it) or what effect the same circumstances will produce made me somewhat insane, I thought meaning was impossible and I had no idea what kind of stuff would happen I was also not sure if my memory was real or other stuff like this, basically insanity through philosophy, which was also nihilistic and also made me depressed back then. It was through Christianity that I started caring about people and loving them and seeing them made in God’s image, (I also somewhat reduced the super skepticism thing because I thought the inner witness of Holy Spirit justified some of my views), before that whatever happened to them I didn’t care at all. It may seem like random edgy teenage stuff but I think it was extreme.
Jacobsen: What makes God, as such, the locus of meaning for you?
Gkionis: The objective meaning and purpose of life or creation is based on God. So, I base my “personal meaning” stuff on that also. If God exists then absurdism is false, but if He doesn’t then is true. Under atheism a bunch of stuff that the existentialists (not about the personal meaning) and absurdists claimed are true, but luckily Christianity is true and not that kind of stuff.
Watch these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqNTT0E_T70 (short video) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWRoJ9myovY (lecture)
Jacobsen: What are those “personal human small tier meanings”?
Gkionis: Stuff like people saying “I find playing ping pong and traveling meaningful”, it may have some importance but it’s extremely smaller than the one of the of the objective meaning grounded on God. The polymath stuff I’m doing are also way less important than God’s meaning.
Jacobsen: How is Dr. Craig framing the Systematic Philosophical Theology? What are the foundational precepts of it? The basic ideas in the prolegomenon.
Gkionis: It’s probably gonna be a summary of all his views and arguments about serious stuff in philosophy and theology and maybe a bit of science if he writes about Adam or fine tuning, in a way that they are connected. This systematic approach has fallen out of fashion when academia became more specialized, but it can have cool stuff if done correctly.
Jacobsen: Where do your ideas seem the least heretical to you?
Gkionis: I’m not theologically heretical, I just made a joke about how maybe some people will think that working out the implications of intelligent aliens that are persons and the afterlife is heretical, it’s not.
Jacobsen: Where do they seem the most heretical to you?
Gkionis: I’m not theologically heretical as I said earlier, maybe I am “scientifically heretical” or socially heretical because I don’t buy into the “make money, get laid, become successful” ideals a big part of society has, or I don’t think being an intellectual means name dropping and quoting crap like some people do on tv when they wanna appear sophisticated. But I wouldn’t use the word heretical for stuff like that, because this kind of heresy doesn’t matter, the theological one does, that’s what’s immoral and leads to hell (I wonder if people will respond with “Uh Ahctxtuallly the Bible doesn’t mention hell in Hebrew or Greek, it mentions Gehenna or hades, hell orginates from…” even though they know exactly what I mean). In general, I don’t give a crap about social norms, I care about God’s. (sometimes they are the same about some things, sometimes not).
Jacobsen: What is the manner of saving and living in New Jerusalem?
Gkionis: Do you mean how people get saved and how is living in New Jerusalem going to be or something more practical about the New Jerusalem?
If one trusts the Lord and lives according to His will rather than other stuff and repents then they get saved, that means that their sins are forgiven and they will be in New Jerusalem. There are mentions of it in Ezekiel and Revelation (both books of the bible), Revelation 21:1–8 says the following: “21 Then I saw a new heaven and a new earth; for the first heaven and the first earth passed away, and there is no longer anysea. 2 And I saw the holy city, new Jerusalem, coming down out of heaven from God, prepared as a bride adorned for her husband. 3 And I heard a loud voice from the throne, saying, “Behold, the tabernacle of God is among the people, and He will dwell among them, and they shall be His people, and God Himself will be among them, 4 and He will wipe away every tear from their eyes; and there will no longer be anydeath; there will no longer be any mourning, or crying, or pain; the first things have passed away.”5 And He who sits on the throne said, “Behold, I am making all things new.” And He* said, “Write, for these words are faithful and true.” 6 Then He said to me, “It is done. I am the Alpha and the Omega, the beginning and the end. I will give water to the one who thirsts from the spring of the water of life, without cost. 7 The one who overcomes will inherit these things, and I will be his God and he will be My son. 8 But for the cowardly, and unbelieving, and abominable, and murderers, and sexually immoral persons, and sorcerers, and idolaters, and all liars, their part will bein the lake that burns with fire and brimstone, which is the second death.”
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/08/01
Abstract
Tomáš Perna is a Member of the World Genius Directory and a GIGA SOCIETY Fellow. Perna discusses: quantum mechanics; classical physics; artificial neural networks and simulated neural networks; machine learning; modern computing science; machine reasoning; superposition and entanglement; “density”; more on “density’; and optimizing machine learning possibilities.
Keywords: Artificial Intelligence, artificial neural network, GIGA SOCIETY Fellow, machine learning, Mathematical Modelling, particle, Wave, Pauli Exclusion principles, Quantum Mathematics, simulated neural network, Tomáš Perna, World Genius Directory.
Conversation with Tomáš Perna on Quantum Theory, Mathematical Modelling, and Artificial Intelligence: Member, World Genius Directory (3)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: What is the basic premise of quantum mechanics?
Tomáš Perna: The Pauli exclusion principle.
In my own understanding: The quantum-mechanical (QM) particle can demonstrate wave-like properties, because there cannot exist continuous connections of its mass to the conditions of its existence emerging themselves as an individually typical wave.
The mass point is excluded (via some unique, existentially inherent property of the QM-pqrticle, like the individual spin seems to be the best candidate) to be existentially conditioned by itself, roughly speaking.
Further, I don´t believe that particles which can be sometimes considered as massless ones, could be simultaneously regarded as fermions of the half-integer spin.
Jacobsen: How does it differ from classical physics?
Tomáš Perna: Classical physics operates only with a conception of mass point and therefore it offers only a not complete space-time, in which a causal behavior of the QM-particle is excluded. If the bahvior of QM-particle can be causal, then in some transcendent sense inherent within a complex structure of the wave provided with spin connections with respect to the space-time.
Jacobsen: Can you briefly explain the artificial neural network (ANN) and simulated neural network (SNN)?
Tomáš Perna: First of all, I must say that I am not AI-expert, but mathematical modelling one, who has built the mathematical model of ANN on a background of certain equations of the quantum theory. In my knowing, the ANN is a system of connections of neurons simulated artificially according with the neural network found within the brain of animals. The artificial neurons (sometimes called as perceptrons) are elementary objects of simulated dedndro-axo-synaptic structure, the functionality of whose should mimic a behavior of real neurons. According to Gödel, every logically consistent system must have a model and ANN is no exclusion.
Jacobsen: What are these in context of machine learning (ML)?
Tomáš Perna: As it follows from the model, using software applications you should bring the ANN into the states, in whose it use its own algorithms with respect to the algorithms of ML in order to solve the problems and make predictions for them. The number of states can never mimic the azimuthal quantum number l from the quantum theory, despite the allowed AI-states are very near to lquantitatively. So the states of AI are pseudo-quantum states with respect to the algorithms of ML.
The own algorithms of AI are given by the intelligent design of ANN inducing the existence of the artificial intelligence (AI). According to its model, the AI is represented by the natural language, the grammar of which is artificially coded, abbreviation C(AI). C(AI) „is placed“ in the so called black box and can be decoded only using such an amount of polynomial time, which cannou be practically reached (historically, imagine yourself some analogy with the Voynich manuscript).
Jacobsen: How are ANNs, SNNs, and ML used together in modern computing science?
Tomáš Perna: Prevailingly, you can google it. As to me, I have made the transformation of the mesh of finite elements (within the finite element method (FEM) used in numerical simulation into neural network for C(AI)=0, so trivially. However, FEM and the so called deep learning can be compared in complicated results at solving some very special partial differential equations. Now, I am working on non-trivial connections between FEM and ANN, trying to find existence conditions starting from C(AI)=0.
Jacobsen: Can the machines reason in human sense with these SNNs and ANNs?
Tomáš Perna: Yes, but only up to the symbolic solutions of the problems, where a semantic differential plays the key role. It means that such reasoning is possible only in numerical and logical regions. (Imagine that you find mathematically catchable symbol of complementarity principle within the wave function, avoiding its statistical Born intepretation. Such symbol would be then completely ununderstandable by AI.)
In the mentioned regions, both AI and mathematical model solutions/predictions of a problem must be pronounceable in the natural language.
Jacobsen: How do quantum computing principles, like superposition and entanglement, influence the functionality of ANNs?
Tomáš Perna: If AI has to be activated, then the pseudo-quantum states of ANN must be superimposable with respect to the algorithms of ML. Under such a condition, ANN is connected with quantum entanglement. But, once again, ANN could be only a certain pseudo-quantum picture of it with respect to the Pauli exclusion principle.
Jacobsen: What does the term “density” refer to in the context of ANNs?
Tomáš Perna: ANN constitutes two types of structures: the interconnections of neurons themselves, within which layers emerge – input, hidden and output ones. The number of neurons in the both types of structure should be determined by mathematical model of ANN. Under a correct number of them a certain harmonic number of electrical charges work in a maximal efficiency in the synaptic region. This number with respect to a size of relevant synaptic region can be incorporated within the density functionals and then one can look, how the density functional theory could be used/useful for AI/ANN.
Jacobsen: Why is it an important factor to consider?
Tomáš Perna: Answered partially in the paragraph above.
It refers to the relevance of the electric charge activities with respect to synaptic part of neuron. It implies further that there should exist an optimal number of layers and neurons within them and within the whole ANN in order to be able to reach the most effective mode of AI-activity at the problem solving. – And, to avoid the overlearning of ANN, which leads to dramatic increase of mistakes in the proposed solutions and found patterns on the given data sets.
Jacobsen: Could you provide an explanation of quantum world equations optimizing ML possibilities?
Tomáš Perna: For the time being, I restrict myself only on the fact of existence of the so called synaptic slots, which are not taken into the account by classical architectures of ANNS satisfactory. Roughly speaking: synaptic slots discrete transmissions between neurons quantum conditioned behavior of excitatory and inhibitory potentials and electric charges in the demonstrable logic of NN and AI. In such a type of context, quantum world equations imply to constitute a background of the mathematical model of ANN optimizing their structure (number of neurons, number of layers and emerging of C(AI)) with respect to ML efficiency and compatibility with real NNS.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/08/01
Abstract
Prof. Singer’s biographic statement on his website says the following: “Journalists have bestowed on me the tag of “world’s most influential living philosopher.” They are probably thinking of my work on the ethics of our treatment of animals, often credited with starting the modern animal rights movement, and of the influence that my writing has had on development of effective altruism. I am also known for my controversial critique of the sanctity of life ethics in bioethics. In 2021 I was delighted to receive the Berggruen Prize for Philosophy and Culture. The citation referred to my “widely influential and intellectually rigorous work in reinvigorating utilitarianism as part of academic philosophy and as a force for change in the world.” The prize comes with $1 million which, in accordance with views I have been defending for many years, I am donating to the most effective organizations working to assist people in extreme poverty and to reduce the suffering of animals in factory farms. Several key figures in the animal movement have said that my book Animal Liberation, first published in 1975, led them to get involved in the struggle to reduce the vast amount of suffering we inflict on animals. To that end, I co-founded the Australian Federation of Animal Societies, now Animals Australia, the country’s largest and most effective animal organization. My wife, Renata, and I stopped eating meat in 1971. I am the founder of The Life You Can Save, an organization based on my book of the same name. It aims to spread my ideas about why we should be doing much more to improve the lives of people living in extreme poverty, and how we can best do this. You can view my TED talk on this topic here. My writings in this area include: the 1972 essay “Famine, Affluence, and Morality” in which I argue for donating to help the global poor; and two books that make the case for effective giving, The Life You Can Save (2009) and The Most Good You Can Do (2015). I have written, co-authored, edited or co-edited more than 50 books, including Practical Ethics, The Expanding Circle, Rethinking Life and Death, One World, The Ethics of What We Eat (with Jim Mason) and The Point of View of the Universe (with Katarzyna de Lazari-Radek. My writings have appeared in more than 25 languages. I was born in Melbourne, Australia, in 1946, and educated at the University of Melbourne and the University of Oxford. After teaching in England, the United States, and Australia, in 1999 I became Ira W. DeCamp Professor of Bioethics in the University Center for Human Values at Princeton University. I am now only teaching at Princeton for the Fall semester. I spend part of each year doing research and writing in Melbourne, so that Renata and I can spend time with our three daughters and four grandchildren. We also enjoy hiking, and I surf.” Singer discusses: Animal Liberation Now; and the awakening to the treatment of animals.
Keywords: Animal Liberation, Animal Liberation Now, Apuleis, Australia, Buddhism, Canadian student, Japan, Oxford, Peter Singer, Plutarch, Princeton University, Pythagoras, Romans, The Golden Ass.
Conversation with Professor Peter Singer: Ira W. DeCamp Professor of Bioethics, Princeton University (1)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: So, today, we are back with Peter Singer. Different publication, second interview, you are coming out with a book again, Animal Liberation Now, as an update on Animal LiberationI, which is an update on the original text. This interview is being done in December, but it will come out in May, 2023. So, to begin, what was the first indication in your intellectual history and personal history when ethical consideration for non-human animals was considered important and legitimate?
Prof. Peter Singer: To me, this can be traced to a very definite single event. There was a chance lunch that I had with a fellow graduate student. I was a graduate student at Oxford studying philosophy and came from Australia. I was talking after class to a Canadian graduate student about a topic completely unrelated to animals, but something going on in the class. He said, “Let’s continue the discussion over lunch, over at my college.” I said, “Sure”. We went there to get served. At the table where you get served, there was either a salad plate or some spaghetti with some red-brown sauce on top of it. I took the spaghetti. The Canadian asked if there was meat in the spaghetti sauce. When he was told there was, he took the salad. We sat down and continued to talk, and the conversation that we were having. When that came to a natural conclusion, when I asked him what his problem was with meat, you have to realize this is 1970.
There aren’t a lot of vegetarians around.
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Singer: I don’t think I had a serious conversation with a vegetarian about eating animals. There weren’t really any. You knew that some Indians didn’t eat meat. There might be some people who thought it was bad for their health to eat meat, but they were pretty rare too. Richard said something much more straightforward than that. He said, “I don’t think it is right to treat animals the way they are treated to turn them into food for us”. It took me aback. I knew, of course, animals were turned into food. I thought they were outdoors in the fields, basically, having a good time before the grim day.
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Singer: When they go to get dropped off for slaughter. Richard said, “No, they are inside, confined in sheds. The real test of how much you crowd them is if your profits go up. You will cram them until so many may drop dead that they can’t cope, then profits decrease. Then you will stop. That is not the point at which their welfare is good. It is well past that.” This pretty well disturbed me. I found myself reasonably kind to animals. I never thought of myself as an animal lover. I never had companion animals. Who wants to be cruel to animals? That is a bad thing. I didn’t know much about it. Richard said there is a book out about this by Ruth Harrison called Animal Machines. It wasn’t a well-known book and obscure book about animal faming. I don’t think it was on any bookshelves. It was pretty revealing because it was building on what farm magazines were saying about how to treat your animals. “You make more money if you do this”. It backed up what Richard was saying.
“This is not good. Is it really okay to treat animals like this? Why would it be okay?” That is what got me thinking that there is a serious moral issue that I should think more about.
Jacobsen: If we go back to the 1970s story and the moral awakening on the treatment of animals, are there prior individuals in centuries past who gave serious consideration to the ethics of animals? I think we’re all somewhat aware of the dismissal of moral concern for animals in intellectual history.
Singer: Yes. There, certainly, have been a few individuals in different civilizations. Interstingly, Buddha talks a lot about compassion. Buddha talks about compassion for sentient beings, not just for humans. If you go to visit a Buddhist temple, certainly, I visited some in Japan. You get a little admission ticket. You pay a small fee for admission. On the ticket, it says, “The first precept of Buddhism is compassionate consideration for all sentient beings”. That doesn’t mean all people following Buddhism and Buddhist priests are vegetarians. In the West, Pythagoras was a vegetarian. Although, we don’t know why, because we have no direct writings. It may have been his thoughts on being reincarnated as animals. There was some connection with India or the East. That may have led Pythagoras to think that.
But there are a couple of ancient writings. There is an essay by Plutarch, in the Roman period, called on abstinence from flesh. We don’t have it all. But it is clear that what we have does talk about the suffering inflicted on animals, particularly by wealthy Romans having special kinds of what were supposed to be delicacies. If you have a pregnant sow, and if you trampled her to death, trampling the piglets inside her, and ate them, this was supposed to be a special gourmet delicacy. Plutarch didn’t think this was very good.
The other work that I should mention is because I edited an abridged edition of it. The Golden Ass by Apuleis, he was a second-century Christian hero, and thinker. An African, actually, he came from what is now Algeria. He has this really amusing novel, which I think deserves to be better known about a man that gets turned into a donkey. He gets interested in magic and the magic turns out wrong. He becomes a donkey for quite a long time. So, the rest of the novel is told through the eyes of the donkey. The donkey doesn’t get treated well by humans.
Jacobsen: [Laughing].
Singer: Clearly, Apuleis was sympathetic to the treatment of animals. The man who gets turned into a donkey. His family history include Plutarch. So, clearly, there is a link between Plutarch and Apuleis.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/07/15
Abstract
Petros studied Philosophy at KU Leuven and plans to become a Professor. He wants to contribute academically in Philosophy, Theology and Biblical Studies. Beyond that, in the spirit of homo universalis, he wants to produce a large set of works of art across different domains, such as compositions, paintings, poems and short stories. He enjoys abstract thinking and creativity, and thinks using both is key to excelling in philosophy, science and art. He has also scored extremely high on some serious IQ tests. Most importantly, he is a Christian and wants to live according to God’s will and spread the good news of the Gospel. He is currently a full member of some High IQ Societies such as: Mensa Greece, Elite member (>=160 IQ sd 15) of the Grand IQ Society, Myriad High IQ Society, ISI-Society, Catholiq High IQ Society, Nebula High IQ Society, Prudentia High IQ Society, Atlantiq High IQ Society. He is also the President and Founder of Quasar Quorum, a new High IQ society for >=150 IQ sd 15. (https://sites.google.com/view/quasarquorum) Gkionis discusses: growing up; extended self; family background; youth with friends; education; purpose of intelligence tests; high intelligence; extreme reactions to geniuses; greatest geniuses; genius and a profoundly gifted person; necessities for genius or the definition of genius; work experiences and jobs held; job path; myths of the gifted; God; science; tests taken and scores earned; range of the scores; ethical philosophy; political philosophy; metaphysics; worldview; meaning in life; source of meaning; afterlife; life; and love.
Keywords: Bible, Christian, Christianity, Corinthians, Greek, Jesus Christ, New Earth, New Heaven, Petros Gkionis, Quasar Quorum, Systematic Theology, The Gospel, William Lane Craig, WW2.
Conversation with Petros Gkionis: President & Founder, Quasar Quorum (1)
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: When you were growing up, what were some of the prominent family stories being told over time?
Petros Gkionis: Lots of WW2 or early post WW2 struggle stories. All four of my grandparents were born into large families, none of whom were wealthy. Two of them were even adopted for a few years because of their families’ financial situation. So, stories about my great grandpa immigrating and their family selling their possessions to buy food or my grandpa from the other side starting to work when he was 12. One side of the family was also too left leaning for the “regime of the colonels” that governed for about 7 years, so there were stories about that era also. There were also random stories about “crazy” stuff that the extended family did, but nothing super interesting.
Jacobsen: Have these stories helped provide a sense of an extended self or a sense of the family legacy?
Gkionis: Not really. When I think of myself, I don’t think of which groups am I a member of, including my family. I am part of them objectively, I just don’t base my behaviour or personality on stuff like that. I am a bit more individualistic and try to base my sense of self on thoughts and ideas I or others produce. Christianity and being a philosopher are big parts of my identity though.
Jacobsen: What was the family background, e.g., geography, culture, language, and religion or lack thereof?
Gkionis: 2 Greek parents, both born in Athens, but they come from 3 different islands total, we occasionally visit 2 of them in the summer. They are culturally Orthodox, although not as religious as I am (although I’m a Protestant, not Orthodox). They are also first-generation university graduates, although not as interested in more intellectual stuff like philosophy or theology as I am either. My interest in philosophy came from spending hours as a kid thinking about stuff, I was basically doing philosophy, without knowing that it was philosophy, I remember wondering about stuff like if time is real or what could exist, or if I existed before I was born, or even stuff like if what I was experiencing was an illusion. Maybe if people told me that this was philosophy that would have helped because I would have had more sources, but I still ended up fine in my philosophical ability anyway.
Jacobsen: How was the experience with peers and schoolmates as a child and an adolescent?
Gkionis: When I was super young it was more ok, because we had similar interests like playing Pokemon and using our imagination to create worlds that we co-experienced. But around my teenager or preteenager years it was hard for me to relate to others, Greece not having classes for gifted students and not letting you skip grades didn’t help either. People with an IQ like mine in the United States have graduated at 14 from high school, but I had to go through it and be taught stuff that didn’t interest me or challenge me that much. I was kinda living in my own head thinking about stuff all the time or drawing my desk, so of course some of my schoolmates didn’t like that.
Jacobsen: What have been some professional certifications, qualifications, and trainings earned by you?
Gkionis: I have a BA in Philosophy from KU Leuven, and I’m also currently finishing their MA program. I also wanna obtain a MA in Theology and 2 PhDs, one in each of those fields.
I also have a bunch of membership certificates from high IQ societies, whatever they are worth.
Jacobsen: What is the purpose of intelligence tests to you?
Gkionis: I’m not sure if there is a single purpose, I guess mainly to discover how intelligent one is, they could also be used for stuff like entertainment or epistemology or for other studies I suppose, but that’s secondary.
Jacobsen: When was high intelligence discovered for you?
Gkionis: I knew I was smart since I was a kid by comparing my thoughts with those of others around me or with those of the “great thinkers”. In terms of IQ tests I did my first test at Mensa when I was 18, in the final year of high school and got the highest possible score, I did it because my parents didn’t believe me when I told them I was smart, which may seem like a ridiculous reason in a sense, but if they had me do this test when I was younger and had me join some program for gifted children I could have benefited, and maybe others would have as well. So, at the time I was pissed off, later I realized it’s not a big deal.
Jacobsen: When you think of the ways in which the geniuses of the past have either been mocked, vilified, and condemned if not killed, or praised, flattered, platformed, and revered, what seems like the reason for the extreme reactions to and treatment of geniuses? Many alive today seem camera shy – many, not all.
Gkionis: Geniuses think very differently from the majority of the population, they are both way smarter, creative and original than the society around them. Those who differ in general get ostracized, but if that difference also makes them better than others in some domains these others somewhat value then sometimes the same others can’t handle it. A lot of the time though others don’t even understand what geniuses are thinking about or they don’t value the same things. These two contribute among other things to the negative treatment. Of course, to some extend it could also be the fault of the genius if they have something like a bad personality, but that’s not always the case. Geniuses in certain domains like the physical sciences or arts get praised sometimes, sometimes after their death, sometimes before, if their achievement gets connected to an effect society cares about, like for example how people connect Einstein with the end of WW2 based on the atomic bomb or if they win prizes from certain institutions (regardless of whether they accept them) that usually seems to help. Although being a genius doesn’t depend on the praise one gets, it doesn’t even depend on having great discoveries, it just depends on how they think.
Jacobsen: Who seems like the greatest geniuses in history to you?
Gkionis: Let’s start with “Jesus Christ”, just to piss people off, hahaha. Some of the greatest philosophers, polymaths or composers should be on that list, maybe some unknown ones as well that others stole ideas from or some that lived in strange circumstances that didn’t make them known.
Jacobsen: What differentiates a genius from a profoundly intelligent person?
Gkionis: Geniuses are also super creative and original. One can be smart without having that and I would say that implies they are not a genius. Although words can be defined in all kinds of different ways.
Jacobsen: Is profound intelligence necessary for genius?
Gkionis: Yeah. In the way I usually define “genius” at least. I wouldn’t call a super creative dumb person a genius, although they certainly would be talented. There are edge cases though, like a super creative super original thinker who is somewhat smart but not super super smart, are they a genius? I think the thing I said previously about definitions solves this.
Jacobsen: What have been some work experiences and jobs held by you?
Gkionis: I’m still in grad school, so that’s not really work. In the future I wanna be a Professor.
I also recently founded Quasar Quorum which is a High IQ Society for >= 150 IQ sd 15, but I don’t make any money from that, so it’s not a job either.
Jacobsen: Why pursue this particular job path?
Gkionis: I really like philosophy, and after becoming a Christian again I started to really like theology and biblical studies also. If I become a professor in these fields, I will be able to think, produce papers and have lectures for a living, which seems way better than most jobs. The idea that I should do a random 9 to 5 instead and just do a little bit of philosophy on the side, seems insane to me, it seemed like a waste of my life in a way when I was younger so I never tried to go that route, and I will try to risk it rather than taking the easy road, since academia is pretty hard in securing a job. If that doesn’t work, I may still try to get something philosophy or theology related, maybe online.
Jacobsen: What are some of the more important aspects of the idea of the gifted and geniuses? Those myths that pervade the cultures of the world. What are those myths? What truths dispel them?
Gkionis: Intelligence, creativity and originality are probably the main things when it comes to genius. When it comes to gifted, the way some people define it, it may only be about intelligence. I don’t like the idea that some people have that there are no geniuses because knowledge or discoveries or whatever are supposedly based on previous or collective knowledge. I don’t think being a genius relies on recognition or achievements, it just relies on the kind of mind one has, maybe some people put too much emphasis on them when they explain the past and maybe they over attribute stuff to them, kinda like the great man view of history, but that doesn’t mean that geniuses don’t exist. Those stories you’ve heard about extremely smart and creative individuals with a great passion for some domains, they can be true and they have been sometimes.
Jacobsen: Any thoughts on the God concept or gods idea and philosophy, theology, and religion?
Gkionis: I am a Trinitarian. I don’t like the idea that the Trinity is a “mystery” that can’t be explained, I think we can explain it through metaphysics and logic. Latin Trinitarianism seems kinda unbiblical to me also hahaha.
Jacobsen: How much does science play into the worldview for you?
Gkionis: I am an anti-realist about science, similar to Paul Feyerabend, although I have some criticisms for him also. I recognize the value of science, and base some of my decisions on it, but I also understand it’s limits. I don’t take it as seriously as other people, in the sense that I realize that what it produces doesn’t have to be true. I have a larger problem with scientism though, rather than science itself, science itself its not that big of problem, it even solves some problems. It’s the way people treat it that may suck. I think Alvin Plantinga said that some theologians don’t criticize science because they are afraid that people will think they critise it just because of “dogma”. But I don’t think we Christians have to be like that, I can have serious epistemological criticisms about whatever I want and I couldn’t care less if others think I do this because of dogmatism, chances are they don’t even grasp epistemology or philosophy of science that well, cause if they did they probably wouldn’t be realists hahaha. The idea that if you are smart you have to spend your time with telescopes looking at the sky or just memorize as many random “facts” about the physical world as possible, rather than having a relationship with God or do philosophy or whatever is a dumb person’s idea of what a smart person is. It’s also common in pop culture.
Jacobsen: What have been some of the tests taken and scores earned (with standard deviations) for you?
Gkionis: I scored the highest possible score on Mensa’s FRT. Years after that when I did some tests again, I scored in the 150s and 160s sd 15 in some serious high range IQ tests.
Jacobsen: What ethical philosophy makes some sense, even the most workable sense to you?
Gkionis: In terms of normative ethics I’m a deontologist, consequentialism seems like a joke to me. Virtue ethics might be more ok, there are exegeses of the New Testament that argue for them.
In terms of metaethics, Modified Divine Command Theory in the style of William Lane Craig, although there could be some adjustments in terms of what is based on God’s essence and what on God’s commandments. It avoids Euthyphro’s Dilemma. When I was not a Christian, I was an Error theorist, I didn’t buy into non-cognitivism because it seemed to me that moral propositions are real propositions and therefore have truth values, they would just be false.
Jacobsen: What social philosophy makes some sense, even the most workable sense to you?
Gkionis: Maybe a combo of postmodernism and premodernism, I don’t like the Enlightenment style modernism that much, although their polymath ideal is not bad.
Jacobsen: What political philosophy makes some sense, even the most workable sense to you?
Gkionis: I’m a Christian anarchist, in a more religious sense than Tolstoy though. I would like a classless, stateless, moneyless, Christian society with an emphasis on Christian values. Maybe AI can automate some stuff and make some decisions depending on the technological level. Is this a political philosophy? I guess it’s some of the views within political philosophy that I have.
Jacobsen: What metaphysics makes some sense to you, even the most workable sense to you?
Gkionis: Not materialism, haha. I’m ok with either dualism or subjective Idealism, maybe even neutral monism. Which of these 3 is correct I can’t really say I know.
Jacobsen: What worldview-encompassing philosophical system makes some sense, even the most workable sense to you?
Gkionis: It’s probably already answered from my previous answers, but yeah I would say Christianity. The Systematic Philosophical Theology that William Lane Craig is currently working on will probably be pretty close to reality.
Jacobsen: What provides meaning in life for you?
Gkionis: God. When I was agnostic in my teenage years, or even earlier when I was an atheist, I was kind of an extreme nihilist, I didn’t buy into the whole “create your own meaning” stuff, that didn’t seem like objective meaning to me, it seemed to me like people were just creating a “shopping list” of personal meanings and they were just happy God wouldn’t judge them or whatever.
Jacobsen: Is meaning externally derived, internally generated, both, or something else?
Gkionis: Depends on what meaning you are talking about. The objective meaning, purpose and significance of life or existence comes from God I would say, there some personal human small tier meanings also which are internally derived to some extent, but they are not as significant.
Jacobsen: Do you believe in an afterlife? If so, why, and what form? If not, why not?
Gkionis: Yeah, I accept what the Bible says about it. There will be a New Heaven and New Earth and those who will get saved will live in New Jerusalem. I’m not sure if aliens who may be persons will end up in New Jerusalem or if they may end up in some other place. Because God could have multiple theophanies in different places in the afterlife, I don’t think I’ve gotten into heretical territory yet hahaha.
Jacobsen: What do you make of the mystery and transience of life?
Gkionis: I’m not sure if I would call it a mystery, I think God always existed, He then created humans and possibly other persons, and He may resurrect them after their death if He wants.
Jacobsen: What is love to you?
Gkionis: “It’s just chemical reactions, bro” haha. It kinda depends on what you mean with it. There is a difference between the Christian love and the romantic one or the kind of friendship that some ancient philosophers talked about that sometimes gets translated as “love”. I would say the most important is the Christian one. It’s the one God has and the one we are required to have, it’s not just about feeling, it’s also about approach and behavior, to quote 1st Corinthians 13:12 “If I have the gift of prophecy and know all mysteries and all knowledge, and if I have all faith so as to remove mountains, but do not have love, I am nothing.”
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): In-Sight: Independent Interview-Based Journal
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2023/06/15
Abstract
Nikolaos (“Nikolas”) provided this bio: “Nickolas was reborn in Paisley PA27TR, UK, on the conclusion of the most hedonistic period of the late 20th century, the 00s. The crisp, dynamic and melodic hue of the aforementioned era reflects on his soul and the music he composes. Nickolas has been working for a major Global Financial Institution, as administrative IT support personnel since 2004. He studied Math in Thessaloniki, Greece and Computing Science in Glasgow, Scotland. His motto is ‘When you are doing IT, the IT is that which is being done to you’. Nickolas is fond of vector sketching, enjoys watching people-by in anime, interested in social engineering, has a thing for sweat-pants, can’t live without traveling and hopelessly tortures himself by mingling with *nix on a memorable IBM Aptiva 486dx2/66. He prefers practicing DJing techniques with Traktor and vinyl. He is far from the extrovert type and can see how and knots, true beauty lies in the details.” He is a creator of high-range I.Q. tests and a member of the CIVIQ Society. Soulios discusses: his hero; something he would change; favourite aspect of career; working hard; favourite book; dreams as a kid; proudest accomplishment; dream day; favourite authors; a day where money wasn’t an object; his life in 5 years; intelligence or looks; most daring thing done; last book read; favourite memory; Santa disillusionment; most brilliant people known to him; and things he likes to do.
Keywords: Aesop’s Fables, Alan Watts, Bipolar Disorder, Captain Crunch, Fiqure, John Draper, Jordan Peterson, Kenneth E. Ferrell, Little Prince, Neuromancer, Nikolaos Soulios, Panagiotis Karabelas.
Conversation with Nikolaos U. Soulios on a Bunch of Fun Things: High-Range Test Creator
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Who is your hero?
Nikolaos U. Soulios: Captain Crunch.
John Thomas Draper (born March 11, 1943), also known as Captain Crunch, Crunch, or Crunchman (after the Cap’n Crunch breakfast cereal mascot), is an American computer programmer and former phone phreak.
Jacobsen: What would you change about yourself if you could?
Soulios: There’s nothing I would change. My destiny will not treat me either better or worse if I changed something.
Jacobsen: What is your favourite thing about your career?
Soulios: I get to work with brilliant co-workers. My class of co-workers, took several aptitude tests and an IQ test, to make sure we were fit to work for the bank.
Jacobsen: What motivates you to work hard?
Soulios: Thanks for the compliment. I work hard and always aim for perfection for the sake of working and perfection. Nothing more, nothing less.
Jacobsen: What is your proudest accomplishment?
Soulios: Regarding collaborations, my most proud accomplishment would be the inception and execution of the Fiqure I.Q. Test, in partial collaboration with MRS Leela Papadioti. For projects of my own, where I work alone, my YT channel makes me feel proud as well. Especially after I registered with ARTGRID.io, the quality of my video clips has improved dramatically and so the channel continues gathering listeners for the music I write.
Jacobsen: What is your favourite book to read?
Soulios: Aesop’s Fables, Little Prince, and the Neuromancer.
Jacobsen: What did you want to be when you were small?
Soulios: I wanted to become a computer engineer/programmer, and the dream came true, thanks to my family that supported me so that I don’t have to find a job, so I could focus on my studies abroad and get the degree in time.
Jacobsen: If you could choose to do anything for a day, what it would be?
Soulios: 12 hours to getting quality sleep and 12 hours at the beach on my own, listening to music on headphones and perhaps taking time for a little bit of swimming as well.
Jacobsen: Who is your favourite author?
Soulios: I would have to chose between Alan Watts and Jordan Peterson.
Jacobsen: If money was no object, what would you do all day?
Soulios: Get long hours of quality sleep, write music, and take walks around the center of Larissa city where I live.
Jacobsen: Where do you see yourself in 5 years?
Soulios: I don’t know and I can’t predict. I’m satisfied with my life how it’s been already, despite my Bipolar Disorder condition. I strongly believe that serendipity will keep taking care of me and lead my life to places I can’t even imagine.
Jacobsen: Would you rather trade looks for intelligence or intelligence for looks?
Soulios: Either you believe it or not, intelligence is all about being prepared to devote your attentional resources to the tasks at hand. In terms of Biology and Epigenetics, the mind that scores at the ceiling of an I.Q. test does not differ at all with a mind that scores lower. It’s a difficult question, and beauty lies in the eye of the beholder. Moreover, having to chose would mean a person won’t have both looks and be intelligent simultaneously.
Jacobsen: What is the most daring thing you have done?
Soulios: Kissing my ex-ex-ex girlfriend while still strangers to each other, after 2 minutes of mutual intense starring.
Jacobsen: What was the last book you read?
Soulios: Man Of No Ego’s e-book titled “Man of No Ego”. It is available for anyone to listen to the respective audio-book on YouTube.
Jacobsen: What is your favourite childhood memory?
Soulios: Unboxing my first computer at age 8.
Jacobsen: How old were you when you learned that Santa wasn’t real?
Soulios: I’m too old and shy to answer this one, sincerely 🙂
Jacobsen: Who is the most brilliant person you know?
Soulios: Panagiotis Karabelas and Kenneth E. Ferrell.
Jacobsen: What three things do you think of the most each day?
Soulios: ahemmm…Facts. I have food, shelter and I’m still able to pay the bills despite the high maintenance cost of my home studio. Everything and everyone, except for my family and 3 besties are stuff that I don’t actually need.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/11/08
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Like astrologers and dowsers, they get big followings and accomplish a lot in their lives for instance. That’d be a form of genius.
Rick Rosner: I don’t now that astrologers are considered geniuses.
Jacobsen: Oh, no, in terms of productivity, they could either be frauds or self-delusional, but could have a mass following and achieved a lot. I’m not saying it’s good. (Laughs) I’m saying it’s terrible. What things should people bear in mind, even common things, like statistical and numerical literacy?
Rosner: Numerical literacy, it is just being able to do math. There’s a numerical literacy. You want to have a numerical understanding of the world in certain areas, with regard to risk, for instance. People are afraid of stuff, are disproportionately afraid of statistically unlikely things because those are the things that end up on the news and the TV shows like terrorist attacks — even though there’s crime, crime rates are pretty low. One of the things that doesn’t get reported on the news is car wrecks, where even if you’re not hurt in a car wreck. Cars are pretty much safer than ever, but having been in some car wrecks. Cars are no longer made to a standard to withstand even the tiniest contact with anything else. Bumpers get messed up. To some extent, it is a safety thing. A bumper that is completely destroyed in a serious wreck, but absorbs enough energy it is to say it is a good bumper. But it’s to say it is a bad bumper too because it costs $600.
My wife drives a Toyota Camry and the bumper is crap. It doesn’t withstand anything. It is like a cement parking block because the little plastic rivets tear away under just a few pounds of pressure.
Numerical literacy might be driving as little as possible without being ridiculous about it, and when driving as if mistakes are expensive because they are. There was a wreck where I tapped another guys bumper, even though there was zero damage luckily. He found a shyster lawyer. There’s a claim that the guy might have soft tissue damage, which is probably garbage, and the insurance companies pay out a certain amount of money because it is difficult in America. If you look at a bogus whiplash charge, and that will cause your insurance rates to go up, it will cost one thousand dollars. If people understood this, they might drive — where a single little mistake, not a crazy drunk and reckless driving mistake — having a reasonable idea of risk is part of not necessarily being a genius, but of being a regular person.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/11/01
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: There are tremendous numbers of this. That’s in a very developed nation, but then you all of these other nations that are watching the charlatans in America or other places and saying, “Oh! That’s real.” If you look at the Atlas of Creation by Adnan Oktar, another creationist, he gets a lot of his writings and ideas from the creationist movements.
Rick Rosner: We’re doing a book about genius, and not about religious fraud. We’re doing a section about either trying to appear a genius or becoming a real genius.
Jacobsen: I’ll clarify. There are many reasons to be cautious. Not only in this area, but other areas, and if you can be cautious in this area in particular, you have to be very careful about people making claims. What is there evidence? How much? How strong? What is there reasoning or are their set of reasons? Is it substantiated in other words?
Rosner: Yea — that’s not the fun part. The fun part is teaching people how to do that stuff.
Jacobsen: There’s also catching these people. That is ethical and fun.
Rosner: Alright, there are various types and levels of delusion in the area of genius.
Jacobsen: Okay.
Rosner: One type is straightforward fraud like Bernie Madoff. Although, he may have started off trying to do fraud at the level of tens of billions of dollars. I think most people who do Ponzi schemes don’t intend to commit fraud on the scale that they especially end up committing fraud. It is like a comb over. You start with a little bit of combing across a small spot, and then your hair keeps going away before after tens years you’re combing from here to here.
I don’t think Madoff intended to — but what sustained the fraud in addition to his shenanigans on paper was his maintaining a reputation of being some kind of genius who had some kind of way of returning — giving returns far in excess of average market returns. People thought he was some kind of genius. He didn’t do anything to discourage that. He encouraged the whole mystique of himself by being very exclusive where he was very.
He made it seem very hard to join his fund or funds. Anyway, that’s one kind of genius, which is straight out lying, fraud. And then, there’s a continuum where you go from complete fraud to — complete intentional fraud to — varying degrees of self-delusion.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/10/22
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Or to appeal to a majority religious view, probably, one of the most prominent intellectuals in the world, even more than people like Noam Chomsky, are people like Fethullah Gulen. He’s a creationist. He has a massive following. This is pervasive throughout. You can find this from evangelical Christians in America.
Rick Rosner: Some aspects in Canada, not too much. Basically, these are various degrees of wrong. And so, basically, since a couple hundreds year, a few hundred years ago, we have a methodology. This is wrong. This is a person deluding their self. this is why we have confirmation bias or availability heuristic and so on, or it is this person who is an outright charlatan that James Randi outed like Uri Geller or that preacher that had a radio tuner with his wife telling him the information that they had got from the congregation. People that were in the congregation.
That’s an old scam. There’s various ways of communicating information from the audience to the guy on stage.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/10/15
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: I would take the major philosophies of the world. The major religions of the world. Two major claims, for instance, that are pretty central to two faiths. Christianity where Jesus, if literal, flying without the aid of technology ascending to heaven — which is space as we know it now, not a literal throne.
If Islam, it is Muhammad flying to heaven on a winged horse, literally, like Pegasus. Both of these are wrong, and if the holy books are considered in a literal context to fundamentalists and they consider it infallible and these are basically provably wrong or with zero evidence, then toss the text based on fundamentalist interpretations.
Actually, I looked at a survey. For instance, I think evolution is a modern battleground. If you look at much of the Islamic world, by which I mean Muslim majority countries, their acceptance ranges from 9 to 25 % at most, and some get up at 70%, the United States is low as well, but the rest of the developed nations have a relatively high acceptance of the theory. I think Sweden is in the high 60s.
If you have old earth creationism, young earth creationism, theistic evolution, intelligent design creationism, and unguided evolution via natural selection. You have five views, but that last one, unguided evolution via natural selection, is the right theory.
Rick Rosner: You said five views, there’s really two views. One is evolution. The other is various degrees of God getting in their and doing stuff. To the extent that science is added to creationistic views, it is just to sneak in the creationism.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/10/08
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: I think there’s an apparent confusion. Before, people were going around assuming things, making claims, and acting on them and so on (non-empirical ones). they were objectively confused, but subjectively certain more than the current era. Now, we have a method with science that provides a relative objectivity about the world. that you can wash away that this is junk, this is not junk, this is pseudo-science, and this is not science, and so on.
Rick Rosner: If you spend a day on the internet, the stuff that is subject scientific analysis is small, just a few percent.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/10/01
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: The language use, it is basically — I think we had this discussion a long time ago about the terms “good” and “evil.” I’ll use them, but there’s a lot of baggage. They convey meaning, immediately, but what they mean now is not what they back then now and to more people now. They have this baggage that assumes a whole bunch of junk from pre-scientific times, when people didn’t know much about the world or thought that they did. A more proper term for prophet might be intellectual.
Rick Rosner: Well, that’s a loaded term too.
Jacobsen: Yes, it is, but less so. It is more concrete.
Rosner: The landscape of — instead of intellectual, somebody who thinks about stuff.
Jacobsen: That’d just be a philosopher.
Rosner: Yea. There are micro-publishing and all of social media make it so much easier to present your point of view to people to expose what you’re thinking to people that barriers to entry to casual philosophy or joke-making or observation-making have been reduced, but also there’s a flurry of every other kind of message making.
So, it’s a bigger arena and it is more confused.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/09/22
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: The old prophets were supernaturalists and pre-science. They were wrong about a ton of things and yet considered holy. Even the language that is used such as prophet and other things doesn’t apply as much or at all anymore because natural philosophy or science has dominated, it has won. Now, it is winning the minds of people as the main battlefield.
Rick Rosner: Yea — but Darwin was a kind of a prophet of an entirely new worldview, but he did not go around announcing his stuff. He sat on it for 25 years.
He might object to the label prophet. He might call himself a biologist and philosopher.
Yea, so.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/08/15
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: There’s another part to the self-delusion or exploitation parts of this — inadvertently or advertently, I guess you could say, people that have some kind of prophet status from this. So, there are regular ones like the Scientologist leader that is deceased Elrond Hubbard or the deceased Mormon leader, the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints leader, Joseph Smith in addition to Brigham Young. Known frauds in their time, even with claims falsified to this day with genetic studies, for instance, the fact that Native Americans aren’t an ancient tribe of Israel that went across the ocean on boats based on genetic tests that can show this, no relation in that way.
Rick Rosner: There are people and I have to include myself because I have this whole theory of the universe.
It’s weird for a number of reasons. One is that, I guess, in Biblical times if you had an insight about how to treat people or about the future or what was going to happen. It seemed like it came from God and you would go around announcing this and either call yourself a prophet or other people would appreciate what you were saying and call you a prophet. I don’t know exactly how it worked, but 2,000 years later. Most of the insights about the world that are really effective and more true than other insights say are kind of based on science and empirical evidence.
Yet, scientists seldom do the prophet thing. Science places a premium on people not getting super overly excited. I guess so –
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/08/08
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: The main point I want to get to is cautions, cautions, cautions for people looking at this stuff. People should probably have a decent to a heavy of level of skepticism with these things.
Rick Rosner: Yes, everybody should be crazily skeptical, extremely skeptical with the first question being, “Why are spending time trying to find out what your IQ might be when you could be doing so many other things?” It might be reasonable. The answer to question is like doctors. When you go to a cosmetic surgeon, the doctor will say, “What do you want from this? And why do you want it?”
American doctors are focused on choice. Canadian doctors are focused on equity.
If you go to an American cosmetic surgeon and say “Because I’ll become super beautiful and be able to meet a really good looking rich guy and my life will be entirely different or I’ll start really getting with great women, and everything is going to be different.” That’s an immediate red flag because having your nose messed with is not going to revolutionize your life. You doctor will be like, “Wow!” They might not work on you because they don’t want to be sued when your surgery does not entirely change your life.
The right tone to do when you’re exploring cosmetic surgery is “I’d like my nose to be a little different. It might make me feel a little better. It might balance my face a little more. I’d like to look a little more rested.” The doctor is thinking they can meet those expectations. It is the same with IQ. You shouldn’t be going in ready to make some big investment of emotions or time in IQ.
It can’t hold up to that stuff. It is brand X paper towel that will not hold the brick.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/09/01
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: That’s a good analogy. I like it. It leads to another part of this. If people are using this as a supplement and they are either a) outright lying, b) lying to themselves, or c) exploiting people.
Rick Rosner: There are some notorious people. They can form a cult and use it to financially exploit people. Most of what you might want to know you can find online. Some people abuse their IQ to get things.
Jacobsen: Is this ethical?
Rosner: I’ve done some of this, but in terms of most of these things don’t harm the public. Mostly, you have to put yourself out there as a freakish curiosity and, yea you get credit for being really smart, but you’re considered a freak.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/08/22
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: That is dangerous. That is very dangerous to the public when you have individuals claiming these.
Rick Rosner: The public doesn’t give a crap about those extra points. We’re not electing them.
Jacobsen: I mean in another sense. You have an unusual honesty. Others don’t, and they use it as a supplement to their own self-promotion and is misleading to the public.
Rosner: It is only dangerous if, alright. It is frustrating to me to see people who haven’t scored as well on IQ tests as me, perhaps, being hailed as America’s or the world’s smartest. At the same time, it’s a system that I — a dumb system that I — have invested myself in, a weird system.
There have to be really strong guy who are pissed when they see who is supposedly the smartest man in the world, say there is a really strong guy, but he is just bad at lifting boulders and boulders is one of the things that tested. Boulder lifting is one of the things in this year’s strongest man competition or maybe he is bad at tumbling 8-foot truck tires end over end down a course.
Or dragging a semi with whatever it is, some guy maybe his strongest thing is being able to deadlift a bowl.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/08/15
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: You’re one about it, but there are many others that make it seem as if they aren’t but they are.
Rosner: There’s some of that.
Jacobsen: Some? How about most?
Rosner: Well. There’s a bunch of stuff tied up in that. I’ve taken 40 homemade IQ tests. Most of which are just super crazy hard, but I’m generally only going to tell my scores that are my highest from the 190s to the 200s. I’m not going to tell you the ones where I half-assed it or where the test kicked my ass.
So, I’m going to go around and say I’ve got an IQ of 199 because one time I got a score of 199 on one of these tests. And there’s some people who scored like that and scored 180s and 190s and that was close to the ceilings of the test they took — and they may give themselves 5 extra points because they hit the ceiling like “Yea, there was a test that could have measured five points higher then I would’ve taken that test.”
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/08/08
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: What about someone’s self-esteem?
Rick Rosner: When I thought I had a low IQ, I had low self-esteem and so if you’re trying to make yourself feel better, if you’re trying to test yourself to see if you can take on an intellectually demanding profession, then, yea, that’s a semi-legitimate reason. The SAT is an indicator and just as lousy as IQ tests are. Your best indicator of if you can take on a challenging profession is how you do in the classes that teach you the skills that you need in that profession.
You can do it without a test that tells you what your brain’s benchpress is. If you’re taking engineering and getting Bs and As in most of them, then maybe you can be an engineer, same thing with statistics classes and becoming an actuary with many more years of study.
Jacobsen: If you look at some of the people claiming the highest scores, two major ones. First, the idea that they posers in the sense that they are either frauds, fakes, or are not geniuses or do not have high IQs. Second, the fact that there is a tremendous amount of self-promotion that is a little bit off-putting to me.
Rosner: I can’t argue with that.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/08/01
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: What other reasons people would want to take them and what other cautionary notes should they take into account when they do, or if they do?
Rick Rosner: Say you’re a rare person that thinks that if he or she joins Mensa it will be lots of fun really high level discussions among your intellectual peers, which it really isn’t, it is just a bunch of guys who are slightly blowhardy blowing hard. Some women like the attention of desperate guys. I am basing this on the 80s. Things may have changed because we live in a nerd intensive culture.
You don’t have to be a nerd to talk about Star Trek. You can go to a zillion places online to talk about Star Trek, and why are you talking about Star Trek when that is a more 70s or 80s thing, when there was only Star Trek and Star Wars and Battle Star Galactica and now there are plenty of super nerdy shows you can talk about without having to invest in getting a high IQ score.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/07/22
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Then what should be the main cautionary notes for people to be rational about how they take IQ tests?
Rick Rosner: The first question you want to ask is why do you give a crap about IQ. Nobody is going to have sex with you about your IQ. Mensa is full of people hoping to join to meet a girl who was into nerds, and it just doesn’t happen very much. It might happen in movies. There was a movie called Real Genius where a hot woman is going around trying to to find the ten highest IQs or smartest people in America and bang them. She never found me in real life. That doesn’t happen.
You need to be able to use your IQ to figure out social norms enough to meet somebody in a way that is just you waving your IQ around because it is not going to get you anywhere. If you go into a job and brag about IQ, it shows that you are socially tone deaf and inept and probably wouldn’t fit in a work environment. Bragging in a work environment is probably a bad idea unless you’re willing to own a certain amount of freakishness and has a certain amount of high IQ and has a freakish interest in IQ which I’ve done.
Jacobsen: Sex, work, possibly selling yourself as something unique.
Rosner: You’re not going to get sex or a job with your IQ or at least by talking about it. It shows that you’re a creepy nerd.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/07/15
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: It’s like a pin with a tight leash for the dog and you’re the dog.
Rick Rosner: It’s like a pin with a dog in an enclosure. If you get a 128 on IQ test, your true IQ, not that there even is such a thing, might range anywhere from 120 to 136, and its kind of the same thing for the high end tests, and all sorts of weirdnesses that creep into tests. There are weirdnesses that are specific to high end tests, which is how crazy do you want to go on a test. I’ve been working on a test for something like 38 months.
I have scores in the 190s. There’s no point in me doing a half-assed job and scoring 158, which I’ve done — ’cause I got, I don’t know, uppity, arrogant, I though yea, yea, I could just dash this off, and no, I couldn’t. For me to get a score that’s in the range where I can maybe kick up my maximum score or highest ever score, I have to find a test that goes that high and that test might require hundreds of hours of thinking about stuff or hundreds of hours for me.
There are always people who go online that they solved the Mega or the Titan and got a really good score in like 2.5 hrs. Those people are lying. Or they looked around online and found answers, or there bullshitting in some way. So, when you get to these high-end, super crushing tests, how willing are you to take that big a chunk of your life to mess with an IQ test? That kind of persistence is not really indicative of IQ, but of weirdness or OCD.
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License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/07/08
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Close to that mainstream reliability. So, you’re saying less than 10%.
Rick Rosner: It depends on what you’re using IQ for. If you’re using it to see whether or to differentiate a kid at 140 and a kid at 170 who might need super-duper extra help to that point that that kid might need to be home schooled or accelerated to the point that that kid is taking university-level classes at 13 or 14, that’s one thing — differentiating between 140 and 170. If you want differentiate between 168 and 171 because it has turned into some kind of sport, not even official tests can reliably do that, there’s a standard error of measure on IQ tests where you give somebody three different professional level IQ tests and the standard difference between their scores on a couple of tests might be 8 points or more.
You can’t pin it down, even though the tests have scores that are expressible in three digits.
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License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/07/01
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: What percentage do you think would be statistically reliable in comparison to mainstream professionally administered and supervised tests?
Rick Rosner: Just a few of these things like half a dozen.
Jacobsen: Out of hundreds, so we’re talking less than 10%.
Rosner: It depends on the type of reliability you’re looking for.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/06/22
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: With respect to the 190s or the 180s or 170s, you’re dealing with a much smaller proportion of the population. Does this then lead to larger margin of error in terms of scores?
Rick Rosner: Yea! These are wobblier tests. When you’re going up against the Stanford-Binet and has been around for a century and has probably been administered to millions of people, which gets renormed every tens years or so, there’s a thing called the Flynn Effect, which is that people get better at IQ type thinking because pop culture saturates the world and certain kinds of thought are measured by IQ tests and become more general knowledge among the world’s people.
So, the world’s IQ has gone up since WWII something like 15 or 20 points, which doesn’t man we’re smarter than the people in WWII, but it means we’ve had more practice and exposure to certain kinds of thinking. So, where few people might get a score of 140 on a standard Stanford-Binet from 1960, ten times as many people might — or a percentage that is ten times higher might — get a score of 140 now because people are more hip to that kind of thinking now.
So, that test needs to be renormed and so somebody getting a 140 on that test now might get a 120 on a more reasoned version of that same test. But anyway, people wanted to see if they could differentiate at higher levels to find super super geniuses, which is kind of — I think these tests originated in America with Kevin Langdon and Ron Hoeflin. Now, they come from all over the place. Paul Cooijmans from the Netherlands. A guy from Italy — we’ll look up his name. There’s Jason Betts from Tasmania, Australia.
There are hundreds of these tests you can find if you poke around on it long enough.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/06/15
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Okay, I want to back up a bit and look down on these three categories. Online ones that have a range of highly questionable validity and some that are done with rigor for professional societies and even some of the one’s that are done for professional societies are questionable. Other ones that come from those with some statistical training or with relevant qualifications and using them for entrance into respectable high IQ societies rather than most that aren’t and come from questionable people, with questionable or illegitimate associations or credentials or qualifications that in essence amount to paper weight or some empty bits and bytes on the computer to make an image, or societies with zero to little validity, partial or total inactivity, or predatory aspects of megalomania or taking gullible people’s money. The gold standard with individual followed by group administered mainstream IQ tests given by professional psychologists with reliable and valid credentials from professional universities…
Rick Rosner: Why would people make a homemade IQ test?
Jacobsen: Good question.
Rosner: These tests started showing up in the mid- to late-70s getting published in Games magazine and Omni magazine, which was a science fiction magazine which came from the publisher of Penthouse. People want — group administered IQ tests and one-on-one IQ tests don’t reliably measure above 150. And people were interested in turning this into finding people who scored even higher than that up to 200 and more if they possibly could.
So, they started writing superhard IQ tests. The Mega, the Lite, the Titan; tests that were at least purported to go up into the 190s.
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License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/06/08
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Now, as a question to those two points, the individually administered ones and the group administered ones. Those are basically the gold standard for intelligence testing because they are the most reliable over long-term times.
Rick Rosner: The Stanford-Binet is 100 years old at least. And it kind of started off racist and cheesy. One of the semi-famous questions, I may not be remembering it right on one of the early versions was asking, “What hood ornaments went with what make of car?” Which your immigrant from Sardinia newly arrived in the US might not do so well on that a question, but over time, the questions have been made more culture fair.
Jacobsen: That leads to the Raven’s Progressive Matrices.
Rosner: RPM, they show you a tic tac toe grid with 8 of the grid squares filled in and you have to figure out which pattern goes in the 9th square on the grid, which they say is culture fair. You don’t need to know any hood ornaments to work out the problems. Though, even that test has been attacked for being favoring boys because boys might have more visual ability, I don’t know.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/06/03
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Does that leave it open to very much being questionable in terms of scores?
Rick Rosner: Well, the guy who wrote the test. The people who write the tests. One guy who writes high-end tests includes diligence or persistence, or conscientiousness, or detail oriented-ness among the various characteristics that are under the IQ umbrella, and when you look at the great works of genius throughout history and not including taking IQ tests, which is not a work of genius. But some works of genius have taken great effort over an extended period of time.
I don’t know how many years Einstein spent on General Relativity, but he started thinking about the universe — he was born in 1879. He starts thinking about the universe when somebody gives him a magnet when he is 5 or 6. By the time he is 26, he has been thinking about the universe. 26, 1905, he’s been thinking about the universe, or an educated view of the universe for 6, 7, 8 years, and then 10 years later General Relativity. He has put a decade into thinking about that and trying different approaches and math and getting bummed out and going after it.
That’s many, many years. I don’t know if anybody’s put any estimate on the number hours of thought and work it took Einstein to come up with General Relativity, but it would easily be in the several thousand. You can take an IQ test in 15 or 20 minutes and they’ll send you a score and these tests give you a somewhat inflated score hoping you’ll pay an extra ten or 15 or 20 bucks for a report — an extra detailed report, just for putting in your time you just get a number.
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License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/06/01
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: These are the mainstream tests that are administered by professional psychologists.
Rick Rosner: Stanford-Binet, the WISC — the Wechsler Intelligence Scale for Children, which turns into the WAIS — the Wechsler Adult Intelligence Scale, there are a few others like that. Those are individually administered tests. With a license professional, they ask you questions. Then there are group administered tests that are created by professional testing companies that have a tighter range that are used in school to see if kids are dumb or smart enough to merit special consideration and kids scoring under 90 or under 80 on an IQ test.
Maybe, that kid needs special help. Similarly, if a kid is scoring over 120 or 130 on an IQ test. Maybe, you put that kid in the gifted class or maybe you give the parents working with the kid the choice to do some gifted junk.
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License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/05/22
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Have these gone through any peer-review or scientific processes that can be considered robust?
Rick Rosner: I highly doubt it.
Jacobsen: Okay, those can be put under heavy doubt.
Rosner: People can publish IQ tests online. Most of the more conscientious amateur IQ test makers do try to do or go to great lengths to try to correlate their scores with other peoples scores on difficult tests. There are tests that are more reasonably normed. They call it norming, or coming up with standard normal values for various scores. Some of them are people’s wild guesses. When you take a really — there are some IQ tests that are professional written or created or normed that have been around for 100 years now, the Stanford Binet is one of these venerable professional IQ tests.
If you want to take that, at least in LA, you have to pay a psychologist 500 bucks to be administered to you or your kid to get your kid into a high-end school.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/05/08
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: As far as I know, the Titan Test was the most difficult one you took. How long did that take?
Rick Rosner: 100 hours. I think I tried to limit it to 100 hours, but it probably took. We’re looking back to — I think I took it in 1990, but I don’t remember exactly. But 100+ hours, I’m confident in saying that I took that much time. I had to draw diagrams. I had to do extensive reference work. That was allowed. Some of these tests allow ‘by any means necessary’ because that is what it takes to crack some these problems.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/05/01
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Are we talking 200 hours or a couple months of work?
Rick Rosner: I wouldn’t recommend that for a first-timer.
Jacobsen: We’re giving a range.
Rosner: A lunatic such as myself taking on the hardest tests in the world I’ve taken more than a dozen tests that have required or at least that I’ve thought have required 100 hours or more in messing with.
[End of recorded material]
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/04/22
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: So, let’s talk a little bit about the IQ testing landscape as opposed to genius, which is more multifaceted.
Rick Rosner: One of the quickest ways to get very questionably certified as smart is to take an IQ test. You don’t have to accomplish anything. You have to take 20 minutes or an hour, or in the case of some tests many, many hours.
[End of recorded material]
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/04/08
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Geniuses can run off the rails. They can get off the genius track.
Rick Rosner: We’re talking in general about what not to do if you want to be a genius, and yea the first rule we’re going to talk about is don’t close out your options, and don’t set up your life to disallow the possibility of doing genius stuff. Keep working on the stuff where you really think your genius might lie, even as you get dragged into adult responsibilities and maybe even a career track that is — I think most people, maybe not most people but a good percentage of people, who go into the sciences want to be world-changing scientists, but are discouraged by trouble they have with the subject. Maybe, not being or not thinking they are as brilliant as other people in the field.
They love science and the have been trained in it, but go down these paths that are doing regular science or doing incremental science, or doing piddly research projects or teaching, and they give up on their pursuit of big ideas in pursuit of little victories. Taking care of their family, having a career, you want to do that stuff unless you’re especially dedicated, but you don’t want to preclude or give up stuff that you think you should be best be thinking about.
I have a tattoo on my foot that says, “Born to do Math.” It reminds me of what I should be doing when I am in the middle of doing other stupid stuff. That is pushing my thinking forward. And the very best geniuses think about what they think they should be thinking about all of the time, and I don’t hit that mark, and I haven’t given up and I do return to what I should be thinking about repeatedly and I have done so for the past 40 years.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/04/01
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Should we be encouraging that form of behavior?
Rick Rosner: We’re facetiously talking about that form of behavior.
Jacobsen: There’s aspects of pretending to be a genius. There’s a lot of people like that. At the same time, there’s simply people that may think they are rather than simple wanting to take some behaviors of people that have greater ability — one might say weighted towards more innate ability — than these individuals that want to improve. They want to improve performance. That’s more noble, thought the bar is low there.
Rosner: I grew up in the 70s, which was a time of sexual desperation — where getting a girlfriend or making out with a girl was maybe probably the hardest problem we were confronting for many years and we looked at many angles of how to somehow become palatable to girls. And that idea has faded. That generalized male desperation has been knocked down a little bit by social media, where people have a more reasonable idea of who their communities might be and since everybody can have a sort of community that isn’t necessarily their miserable in-school community.
I think there’s a lot more stuff to do besides trying to make out with a girl now than there was in the 70s. So, there’s probably less desperation, but that idea has still moved forward to the extent that there is the pickup artist movement, which is there were crappy books on how to pickup girls in the 70s. And then there were more effective and better thought out ones in the 90s — though no less creepy.
Off the top of my head, one reason to want to appear to be a genius if you don’t have the serious intent to be a genius is to be socially successful. And I don’t know if it is worth it. It probably is. If you have an angle on it, there are plenty of ways to pretend to be someone else long enough to at least to talk to a girl.
With the pickup artist technique is to dress like a fool, and … [phone, end of conversation]
Some aspects of genius can be triggered with the right clay, the right genetic background, through exceptional circumstances with to parents as well.
If you’re either going to be a genius or fake being a genius, a good head start is having a crazy parent. A parent who wants to make a genius. John Stuart Mill’s dad wanted to turn out a prodigy and it worked out. John Stuart Mill was speaking like a dozen languages by the time he was 8 or some crazy young age. His dad pushed, and pushed, and pushed the way a crazy sports kid might push a kid now. Mill had the mental resources for this to work out.
It’s a crap shoot. Most of the time it won’t. There was William Sidis a hundred to a hundred and twenty years ago who had a dad who was very ambitious on Sidis’ behalf and got him educated and pushed him, and then the kid pushes himself and then becomes a Harvard Professor at like age 18 or 16, or something. And then kind of doesn’t — he died of a cerebral hemorrhage in is 40s, which is no way to become an immortal genius.
In the mean-time, he worked at the post office. He became obsessed with trolley transfers or bus transfers. Little slips of paper where you need to take more than one bus, and at the same time he came up with a system of physics and was writing a history of the world, but when the op-eds were written about him they emphasized that he was a misguided genius that didn’t live up to his early promise, which is a general theme of stories about genius is that there’s a lot of schadenfreude in stories.
People like to read about celebrities and their lives that are a mess. They like to read about geniuses who are very troubled because of I guess the psychology is or the thought behind it when people write stories like that is that people like to feel good about themselves by showing somebody who has greater gifts than them but has greater deficits too. People might feel good about that.
There are — we’ve been talking. You mentioned Adragon de Mello. Another kid with a dad that was crazily ambitious on his behalf and turned him into a prodigy and is he the one who ended up working at Home Depot or is that a different one.
Last information we have is that he worked Home Depot, yes.
So, there’s a case out in Colorado about 12 years ago. I’ll have to look up the name of the mom. Instead of pushing her kid to become a genius, she just committed flat out fraud. She got the answers to a well-respected IQ test. Either the WISQ or the Stanford-Binet, and coached her 3-year-old kid on what the answers were, and took the kid to be tested at age 3. The kid got the score of an average 12-year-old, and giving him an IQ of like 400 or about the highest IQ in history.
That’s a great strategy, except that it’s a terrible strategy because how do you back it up. If the kid has the highest or is the most brilliant kid in history, somebody is going to want ask that kid to multiply a couple two digit numbers together or write like a paragraph and that kid who has been coached in the answers to one specific IQ test is going to be found out pretty fast as the mom and kid were. I think the mom got prosecuted, for what exactly I don’t know. Fantastic, terrible strategy.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/03/22
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: There’s also aspects of geniuses going wrong. In that, each person that is going to be persistent into one thing, perseverant, will have a certain premise or piece of code, whatever analogy you like, to guide their behavior and if they have the wrong premise or line of code in terms of their thought processes, they will come to wrong conclusions, even though they will have definite indications of high levels of analytic ability and creativity with respect to their chosen endeavour.
Rick Rosner: That reminds me of everybody that worked on the cosmic aether for who knows how many years. It was this stuff that supposed to fill empty space, which relativity did away with, and so if that was your chosen field then you were screwed. And in a way, everybody, the half dozen geniuses that people know, are screwed. In that, out of 106 billion people who have ever lived, when you say genius, most people will say Einstein, then Hawking, then few people will say.
You might get Darwin. You might get Newton. You might get Marie Curie because she was a representative of women in science, but very few people. Good luck with people or most people knowing exactly what they did. Newton might be their best bet, and then Darwin. If you’re looking for really immortal immortality, that’s just not a thing that you’re going to reasonably expect to get because everybody is washed away by the tide of time.
Frickin’ in literature Shakespeare, Fitzgerald, just people who come immediately to mind. And then Stephen King because he is going to be more in people’s heads than somebody from a couple hundred years ago. So, lasting, lasting immortality is — that’s like being the Michael Jordan of thinking. There’s room for just one or two of those guys in just a few fields. But you can look at it being a claimed as a genius during your lifetime.
And we should talk about, I don’t know if we talked about it, ways to appear to be a genius, even though you’re not, or even if you have no intention to try and be an actual genius. There are probably ways to -if you just want to be a genius to hook up with people, we should look at the ways of doing that.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/03/15
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: What is the plus and minus?
Rick Rosner: Let’s talk about smaller organization that are paternalistic and sororital, well fraternities and sororities, that provide security and enforce comformity and safety. I was in a frat. It is easier to hook up with somebody if you’re in a frat and if you go to a frat or sorority party and you’re already vetted and are not too much of a weirdo, supposedly, because you’ve gone through the recruitment and pledge process, and there’s safety in normal behavior.
So, you have the Rotary and Shriners. These are things that flourish more in the 20th century more than in the 21st century, but local chambers of commerce. People working together to maintain a traditional friendly business environment. And those things do better when there’s not disruption. Disruptors can be weird. They can be angry. They can be annoying. They question people’s motivations and assumptions.
And they may in some cases, especially in the arts, point out the hollowness of traditions and normal life. If you look at the great books of the 50s like Revolutionary Road is a book that takes a look at complacent post-war American life and finds the desperation lurking underneath it, and that’s kind of been a literary theme running ever since the novel was invented and before that, the Greeks and Romans with satirists. Genius takes a look at normal life, breaks it down, and finds out what sucks about it, which is annoying if you’re trying to live a normal life.
It boils down to jocks versus nerds. Normality versus disruption and innovation, and normality has ways to defend itself, and one of the ways it does is via majority. We are all going to behave and think this way and if you can’t or won’t then you’re going to be ostracized, and then way that genius wins are just by being better. You can try to innovate, but if you suck you’re going to get squashed; if you’re really good at it, normality will grant you the title of genius.
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License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/03/01
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Society reacts to geniuses in a bad way because geniuses are revolutionary force in the society.
Rick Rosner: Life is itself conservative in that conservative means doing things as they have been done historically and evolution across its history on a year by year basis is punctuated equilibrium. There’s probably. Some nuances to it. It is species stay the same until something knocks them out of their niche and then there’s pretty rapid speciation and then things settle down again.
Well-adapted members of a species tend to want to keep things the way they are. It is that jocks versus nerds things. Healthy, physically attractive — those fittest animals tend to in normal times dominate, but the fittest animals aren’t necessarily the smartest animals and in fact it is kind of tends to b the other way around in that fittest animals being at home in their niche don’t have to think as much as the little scrambly animals who aren’t as well-adapted who have to do little tricks to try and gain some advantage.
So, society inasmuch as it is stable favors regular people, the majority, and stability and then geniuses aren’t as attractive, say, or people who are weird aren’t as attractive, and people who challenge institutions are going up against coalitions of people who formed partnerships.
Coming from an American perspective, you have the Chamber of Commerce, which has turned into a really creepy enforcer of ultra-right wing corporations and businesses should not have to pay taxes, shouldn’t have to pay minimum wage, conservatism.
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License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/03/01
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Why doesn’t it apply?
Rick Rosner: Because that is more of a diss to geniuses, but maybe it reflects a semi-reality. The stereotypic genius, ivory tower, absent-minded, although that has been changed in the last 30 years by tech geniuses becoming multi-billionaires. You have a show like Silicon Valley in which everybody is a semi-Aspergery super smart coder who finds him or her self swimming in an environment that is lousy with tens of billions of dollars in capital. So, that money thing has changed and society has changed and society is in fact becoming less resistant to disruptive genius.
Now, while we have this disruption, and it was brought to us by the Bill Gates and Steve Jobs of the world, and continues to be. So, it is old school that geniuses are kind of finding themselves shunted off into areas that don’t threaten the various status quos. And we’re on some kind of ramp where we’re facing more and more disruption and genius is playing a part in that.
And to widen out the argument, there’s an information, not a war, but information is playing a bigger role in our lives. They don’t call us the information age for nothing, and information disrupts. And geniuses aren’t entirely in control of their role in society. It is an interaction between society and geniuses and societies have become infected with information and has become less resistant to disruption.
And geniuses end up riding that wave along with everybody else, but more to their benefit.
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License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/02/22
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: How does society react to genius?
Rick Rosner: Society and culture to some extent have a limited tolerance for novelty. Society is conservative and genius is disruptive, and there has to be room for the great masses of people who aren’t innovators to a great extent. If every genius suddenly had a purpose or was brought up with the idea that they had to go into real estate, the real estate market would get really weird and a lot of regular people would get squeeze out by innovation and disruption. So, there are protective measures society has such as blatant disapproval, disbelief, to stereotypes about genius that act to isolate genius, to forces that kind of make geniuses isolate themselves.
A lot of geniusey pursuits are harmless to society and spin off genius ability without threatening society such as being great at chess. It would eat up a lot of smart people’s time without doing anything to society and without really helping geniuses much in general except as a recreation. Stereotypically, geniuses aren’t pictured as going after money. There’s that saying that if you’re so smart why aren’t you so rich which, doesn’t exactly apply.
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License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/02/15
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: They’re not dolphins. (Laughs) It’s more like parts or networks of their brain will rest, and they will not even know it because they will not necessarily have an additional module to monitor that.
Rick Rosner: Yea — probably the 4 hour a night people are bit raggedy assed too. With geniuses, they yield to eccentricity. It has been in a lot of cases been productive. It’s a bit like being a grownup kid in a way. You’re going to do what you want to do when you want to do it. But when you look at the general population, you see people that have who have yielded to eccentricity and some of those with less happy results.
Some people give into eccentricity and write a great book and some people turn into an episode of hoarders. And probably some people both. Godel, Kurt Godel, who is famous for his incompleteness theorem, which is a set of ideas about math which says that you can never pin math down completely. There are always going to some aspects of mathematics that are resistant to being provable or even to being proved consistent.
But there can be a glitch somewhere in math that can blow it up. If you look at the world, and if you look at math, it is unlikely that it’ll blow up, but his theorem says there’s a chance of that. Kurt Godel starved to death, apparently, because he thought that people were poisoning his food. So, he wasn’t eating to a great extent. That’s a guy who did great work and also in yielding to his eccentricity died.
So, it can be a mix. We have talked about the romance of certain kinds of genius. The romance of being novelist. In the 20th century exemplified by guys like Thomas Wolfe and Fitzgerald and Hemingway, people lived bohemian and boozy lifestyles, and in the 70s the comedy world. SNL, when it started out, and just that whole era in entertainment was pretty cocaine soaked and other jokes.
There was all of that stuff in the 70s and 80s, and it still happens where you have actors ODing. Among myself and the writers that I know there is a whole different behavioral paradigm now, which is trying to keep your shit together. Be healthy because TV writing is so demanding that you can’t be a mess and do a good job at it.
When I worked at Kimmel, instead of our offices being filled with cocaine, our offices were filled with exercise equipment and fibre gummies. One guy I know has dumbbells for in between writing assignments. If you walk through out office, you’d probably find enough equipment to do a decent half-assed workout.
I used to say that I thought that our writing staff could beat up any TV shows writing staff. Now, people go to rehab, in the 70s that was really just at the beginning of Betty Ford. Overall, among the creative class of people in America, I think there is healthier behavior.
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License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/02/08
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Let’s talk about the patterns of geniuses: quirk, unique things.
Rick Rosner: There’s a book and website. I’ll have to look’em up so that we can stick them in here. We can see week-by-week details geniuses routines or lack of routines of people that people consider geniuses. Artists and scientists, and their schedules are very idiosyncratic. Though probably if you looked at any sufficiently large group of people, you’d find a lot of people who have given into their eccentricities and decided to live more or less on their own schedule.
If you’re on a 9–5 job, your life circumstances are going to help determine your schedule. If you’re a genius, this has helped make you, helped make you, self-employed, the fruits of your creativity if you’re an artist, painter, scientist, you might have more freedom to follow an eccentric schedule, but a number of the greatest geniuses followed an eccentric schedule. Different sleep schedules, some geniuses say they get by on very little sleep. I think Trump who is anything but a genius says he gets by on very little sleep. There are variations about how much sleep people get.
Some get 6 a night. Some get more than 8. Some naturally do that. Some do that under some degree of duress. Say they’re a doctor working as an intern, and they are expected to put in 80 or 100 hours per week, though they are relaxing that kind of stuff because that tends to kill patients when you’re being treated by beginning doctor who hasn’t slept in 36 hours.
But some people claim that they can get by on 4 hours a night sleep and then they use the extra hours to increase their output. You brought up the point that those people may be thinking they’re sleeping 4 hours a night, but other times during the day they may be nodding off or half of their brain may go to sleep and leave the other half in charge.
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License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/02/01
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Let’s talk about actually getting things done, geniuses can’t just not be geniuses, sit around, and then become geniuses. They must do. They act. There’s different learning styles and talents, and intelligence levels, and persistence and creativity levels, and differences in the number of hours devoted to their pursuits. There’s some geniuses that are simply productive, and we label them after they have made some significant advances. Others can do well on IQ tests. Those scores are representative on the condition that they mainstream professionally administered and supervised tests.
Rick Rosner: I guess the first general principle will be getting a knowledge that lets you move beyond that base, which means that it can have a differing background. Primary example of that is Darwin who went on his five-year journey and just saw everything. To be a genius, it helps to be born earlier in time, especially now with 7.3 billion people. Now, every discipline is crowded with people trying to figure things out, but you can’t do that because you’ll be let down.
If you’re looking to follow your interests into an area that hasn’t been over-colonized or explored, and if you’re super lucky and good enough to even out in a crowded field to find the right areas for new analysis and exploration, for any of this you need to develop expertise, it doesn’t have to be a full set of knowledge of a particular field but just the basics. More than that you need to analyze, break down the subjects, break down things you’re observing into their components.
You need some expertise in your area, and then you need mental flexibility and the ability to break things down into analyzable chunks. Other factors that are helpful are to not die. Some of the — you can probably argue that there’s a statistical correlation between a lifespan and being acknowledged as a genius. If you die too early — there are people who, like Abelard or something, I don’t know, who got assassinated when he was 20, and the night before he was assassinated did great work, but, in general, I think especially in the arts.
It helps to hang around. Picasso lived a long time. These are not great examples. Newton lived a long time, but Picasso and Newton were acknowledged as brilliant when they were young. Yet, I still think you want to expand your legacy and being healthy in general, which is correlated with living longer, which means you’re mentally healthy, which means you can work longer, and having a long working period is probably correlated with genius. So, I take 70 vitamins and supplements a day. I got to the gym a lot. I try to keep my weight down. I work mental challenges, though that’s partly because I’m interested in it rather than an exercise to keep my brain healthy.
Even so, that seems to help, so staying healthy. If you look around in traffic at other drivers, people in the city who — just look around at other people, and people who look like they live terrible lifestyles also look kind of mentally dulled and that’s been backed up by some research with people in PET scan machines and they can see how wrecked their brains are, and they can metabolic syndrome, can not exercise, can have metabolic syndrome, and are overweight. And then you get hem on an exercise machine, drop some weight, take them away from diabetes a bit, and put them back in the PET scan machine, and their brain is more lit up.
Other things correlated with actually accomplishing something is genius is being isolated. Genius is probably overrated. Learning to collaborate is — Erdos was the greatest or among the greatest mathematicians of the 20th century and was known as the nomad of the mathematicians. He would just travel from the homes of mathematicians and stay for a few weeks and while he was there he and the mathematicians of the house he was staying in would do 3 weeks of intense work and advance that mathematicians work, greatly.
He was part of probably thousands of papers. There’s something called the Erdos Number, which is similar to your Kevin Bacon number. It shows how close you are to publishing papers to somebody who has published a paper with Erdos. So if you publish on with him, you’ve got an Erdos Number of 1, which includes hundreds of mathematicians. All of the mathematicians he influenced. All of the easy stuff has been plucked out of math and science over the past centuries and decades, and that only leaves the harder problems, which means you’re going to need to collaborate to take some of these tough problems.
You’re going to need — and I’m really bad at this — advance computer skills if you’re going into advanced mathematics and physics. They have a lot of training in statistics, which is fairly useless in terms of doing modern statistics. I can do mental statistics. I can estimate the standard deviation of something and stuff like that, but in terms of doing the kinds of statistics that people get paid for as actuaries or maybe somebody sets up things. Those people know the hell out of computers because they have a deep knowledge in demand right now.
They know stuff that is not simply crunchable by people. You have to know how to work with the programs. So, you’ve got to be a genius in the sciences. You can do yourself a favor and learn how to code. It’s the various codes are probably as advanced as any spoken or written language right now.
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License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/01/22
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Let’s talk a little bit about sex and genius.
Rick Rosner: I’d suggested we talk about personality traits that go along with genius, and then we were looking at the idea that the personality traits might have as much variety among geniuses as they do among everyone else. You have depressed geniuses, happy, mean, nice. The whole bit. And that probably applies to, if not personality, at least sexual behavior as far as we know with the few examples that we have.
Geniuses probably have the same range of sexual drives that everyone else does. Though, given that they don’t play by the rules sometimes, they may feel more free to act on them. For instance, Feynman had a big romance and short marriage with the love of his life who died of tuberculosis while he was working on the Manhattan Project, and he was still a very young man.
And after that as if Feynman felt free to engage in picking up as many women as he possibly could, and he used empirical methodology and the same analytics that he used in physics that he used for picking up women long before there was a pickup artist movement, he had rules. Like, you never buy a woman a drink, especially a B girl.
B girl was a bar girl. At the time, a kind of a not quite prostitute scam, where a girl or woman would hit you up in a bar for a drink, she was working in league with the bar and you would buy her a drink in the bar and she would get some watered down ginger ale of drink, and at the end of the night you’d get hit with a huge bill. At that time, Feynman decided that buying a woman a drink makes you sucker and you’re not going to make any headway, and so you’re going to make headway.
He was apparently successful at seducing women all around. He was a good-looking, fun guy. He played the bongo drums. he was a safe cracker. He racked up large numbers of seduction. At the opposite extreme, you have Newton who was very solitary and maybe died a virgin, even though he lived into his 90s.
His mom remarried when Newton was 10 and gave Newton away for a bunch of years to another family. People wonder if this twisted him emotionally. In the art world, you have Picasso who was a big player and seducer of women and not necessarily somebody who treated women with full consideration of what they may have wanted; at the same time, him being Picasso and being such a famous vibrant guy. There was not a shortage of women who would put up with that.
Einstein had at least 5 affairs. We don’t know how far the affairs went, but most affairs involve sex. His marriages were, especially his second marriage to a cousin was, kind of a marriage of I guess you could call it convenience, but she picked up after him and handled his affairs and was happy to married to a great man, and he felt free to do whatever he wanted.
I guess as I started off that among the greater or the — Marie Curie had, I think, affairs, more than one or at least one affair. She was considered very attractive by her peers at the time. So, a conclusion might be — without looking at the backgrounds of more than a few geniuses — they want sex like everyone else, but feel more free to act on their desires in discarding norms of behavior.
We’ll probably have to look at the times in which everybody lived. The first half of the 20th century was a Golden Age for prostitution, at least in the US. And the sexual revolution of the second half of the second half of the 20th century freed up everybody, not everybody, but more people to have sex in a non-marriage, non-hooker context.
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License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/01/15
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Alfred Russell Wallace?
Rick Rosner: Yea — he and Alfred Russell Wallace announced it together, but took another year to put together his arguments in publishing The Origin of Species. These arguments were super powerful, and deep, because they’d had different background and a five-year voyage around the world and because after the voyage he took another 20 years to really nail down his arguments.
Newton, I don’t know what the time length for coming up with his views were, but he was young when he came up with calculus and universal gravitation, but you can still assume that anybody who comes up with pretty hardcore world changing theory has almost certainly not done it casually, but has that thinking as a result of many years of concerted, willed, thought about not the theory itself.
It is about the subject the theory impacts.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/01/08
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: What about the sheer amount of time required to become a genius?
Rick Rosner: That’s probably the most important factor. Feynman prided himself on his average IQ to the point that people have an actual IQ. But when you look at the biographies of geniuses, even when they early success like Einstein who published his 4 huge papers at the age of 26. They had been thinking about tough problems for a long time. Einstein first became fascinated with unseen physical processes. Namely, the force that kept a compass needle pointing north since the time he was a small child.
By the time he was 26, he had been thinking about the structure of the world for close to two decades in some semi-concerted or at least thinking about it every day way. Darwin: one reason that evolution was immediately huge was that the theory is that Darwin worked on the theory for close to at least 20 years between going on the voyage of The Beagle and being to forced to publish when his friends told him that another guy was on the verge on working on the same theory.
Darwin came out with huge, even then I think he still took — he announced his theory in conjunction with — I forget.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/01/01
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: What about not being afraid to go outside your area of expertise? What about extending it as well?
Rick Rosner: You and I did some pre-talking before we got to the actual talking and I realized that I don’t know enough about a lot of geniuses to talk about them. I basically know about a small group of big geniuses. Feynman, Newton, Einstein, Darwin, just based on them, they gave themselves license to think about anything. And backed it up by acquiring expertise well-beyond their limited fields. Feynman was well-known. He had a standing bet that people could give him any numerical problem within 60 second she could come up with an answer that was within 10 % of the actual answer, and his lectures on physics are famous and they are 3.5 or 4 volumes, and cover just about all of physics.
He pretty much invented the field of nanotech. Even in the last year or two of his life, he investigated the explosion of the space shuttle Challenger and came up with the reason that it exploded. He was all over the place and was good at being all the place. He gave himself license to think about anything and then backed up that license with acquired expertise. Ditto with Einstein. Einstein made contributions. He invented the laser on paper. He didn’t really build one, but he came up with the idea.
Even in fields he hated, he hated quantum mechanics. Even there, he contributed all sorts of stuff including a critique in quantum mechanics: spooky action at-a-distance. Which helps structure the understanding of quantum mechanics, the photoelectric effect, which is one of the things that he won the Nobel Prize for is a quantum effect. He, too, ranged all over the place. Unlike Feynman, a lot of his thinking in the latter half of his life didn’t go anywhere.
He was going after the unified field theory. I’m not sure that he came up with anything that is super worthwhile in that area. Newton, I don’t know enough about. Newton was all over the place. He ran the mint in his later years. The royal mint in England. He did all sorts of political analysis. He was looking for secrets. He was religion, and he was looking for secret communications from God in the Bible.
Which we would consider a waste of time now, but I think he thought, at least he presented himself not actually thinking of himself, as always just working to do God’s work by figuring out the universe. I think he thought that God wanted us to figure out the world. That he took it on, and he came up with two huge things in two disparate fields. He came up with calculus and universal gravitation, and then he made contributions to optics. I don’t know what else, but he gave himself the freedom to take on everything that was a scientific issue of the time.
The pickings were easier back then because the science was younger and there were fewer people. I think some people who aren’t confident in their deep abilities probably fearfully stick to a very limited area of expertise in science. If people want to be a genius, you have to expand your footprint. And if you’re lucky, what you learn checking out one area of your discipline will help give analogies and ideas for checking out other areas of your discipline.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/12/22
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: What about actual geniuses versus fake geniuses like pop culture geniuses?
Rick Rosner: Alright, CBS right now is the genius channel. They used to kind of be the murder channel. They still kind of are. But they have so many shows, probably close to a dozen shows that have at least one genius character on them. There’s limitless pill that makes him a genius. Scorpion has a squad of 5 geniuses based on a real guy who purports to be this supergenius, but who in real life has been fairly thoroughly debunked. He might be a smart guy, but he’s not the ultra.
The headquarters of the actual place that he claims for a company is a place for a company that he stole for his company. It is interesting they’ve gone that way They’ve got Sherlock. He’s probably the greatest genius in fiction. CBS is also known as the old people network. Where if you watch a CBS show compared to the other big broadcast shows or the subtler shows on cable networks, things are made more clear for people who are a little bit slower on the uptake. That may be even more so the case with CBS. It’s for old people.
So, you get very clear explanations often of what the situations are where you have to draw your own conclusions on the show or for a show like Mad Men— on a different network. The question is why are they giving old people all of these genius shows. It may be that people are a little threatened and boggled by the world and change, and that maybe geniuses are comforting if they are on the side of the good guys.
That maybe Joe Old Person may not understand the world, but there are people that do and they are helping us fight crime and at the end of the show, they will explain exactly what they did so you will feel like a genius too. Or CBS is trying to break out of the old person demographic and think that geniuses are a cool and modern cutting-edge thing to try and get a younger demographic, but there’s a thing called, in screen plays, the magic negro or the magic retard.
The deal is there was Cuba Gooding movie called Radio, but I didn’t see it and I guess Radio was really slow mentally, but he was full of wisdom and cynical screenwriters call that a magical dumb person, a magical dumb person for the purposes of the plot dispenses wisdom. You sometimes see the super wise old black man or woman. Similarly, TV and movie geniuses are much more magical than real life geniuses. The TV geniuses on Scorpionsave the world in the nick of time every week and geniuses in comic books are able to invent time machines and anti-gravity, and robots that do all sorts of — until recently, nobody took that seriously. Comic books were comic books that were ridiculous, but now that a comic book can make tens of millions of dollars.
They try to put comic book plots in a more believable context, even though they are still ridiculous. Iron Man builds his first iron man suit in a cave using munitions casings. In any case, people should be able to tell the different between comic books and movies and real life, but it still probably needs to be said that except for a few wild geniuses. Geniuses help advance human progress if at all, if they do it incrementally. Things move forward a little bit. Also, there’s a temptation to overstate the works of genius. Relativity is a great theory, and it reframed the entire; Special Relativity reframed –
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/12/15
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: It is effortful rather than automatic. Let’s talk about the history of nerds. We have images of the history of nerds being the history of men, for instance.
Rick Rosner: In the 1960s and 70s, it will still really bad to be a nerd, which I would guess that the terribleness was being particularly sharp in America because America prides itself on being a very rugged country. If there’s a whiff of effeteness, somebody beat the nerd up in nerdness. I mean, when I grew up, bullying was thought of as good, as something that would toughen kids up, and America is not one of those snotty, snobby, effete, European countries, at least in the 60s and 70s, where somebody might stop some kid from being bullied.
We took pride in our bullying. And then, computers happened, and nerds actually changed the world. Probably, more than at any other time in history. Nerds changed the world because the Industrial Revolution and subsequent industrial changes weren’t necessarily done by nerds or spearheaded by nerds. They were spearheaded by industrialists who hired smart people to do their bidding, but Microsoft and Apple and a zillion other soft and hardware companies were spearheaded by socially awkward geniusey geeks.
And that changed the impression people have of nerds. Plus, social media means that awkward people or people who are awkward in public were in school to reach out to other people via social media, and it doesn’t matter how awkward you are in person over social media. And you can build your own communities of people with similar interests. I mean, in the 80s, I used to go to science fiction conventions hoping to meet a rare nerdy girl because I figured if she were at the convention, then that’s half the battle, but there were any girls at the convention.
There were very few. Those that were there were swarmed desperate nerdy guys. Now, however, the whole culture has shifted and San Diego Comic Con pulls over a 100,000 people. i don’t know. It becomes a whole other city of nerds for a week. It’s not a sad thing. it is people who are perfectly content with their interests being what they are.
And you have nerdy people hooking up with each other and having — I get so annoyed when I see like two chubby people wearing chunky glasses and they’re a couple and nobody is making them feel bad or whatever, and it’s like where was this shit when I was a nerd and glasses were a mark of shame. This system where nerds are not persecuted and are free to live lives like other people is just a better system. it reflects the future. It is not like there’s going to be a crackdown on nerds in the future.
Life was continuing to expand to include smart eccentric people pursuing their weird interests and will embrace them. Where dumb jock culture that I grew up under didn’t — even back then they knew it wasn’t good for them. the stereotype was that the jocks would grow up to losers and the nerds would grow up to be rich and get pretty wives.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/12/08
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: So, that’s not necessarily a myth. Rather, it is something that has some truth to it. People with genius or apparent high levels of competence are not necessarily spacey. Rather, there’s some truth to it.
Rick Rosner: Yea, in fact, some people so much up in their heads that if they want to get along with people they have to train themselves to be in social interactions. Temple Grandin talks about in her writing about having to work at social interaction.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/11/21
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: What about geniuses being lost in the clouds — absent-minded?
Rick Rosner: A thing that actually happens with an actual difference between people is it doesn’t get discussed much, but it has to be a thing. Some people think more than others. Some people make a practice of focused thinking more than others. Everybody has — the differences between people’s innate mental abilities are not as tremendous as their expressed mental abilities. Not that you can entirely talk about mental abilities, but everybody has a brain, and most brains have the same components, and they’re subject to fairly tight biological constraints, kind of like height.
Some people are 4’6″ and other people are 7′ tall. But that is only a 50% variation in height with most people with the standard deviation for height only being like 2 or 2 and half inches. it is a tight thing. You take a look at people’s hearts, and people have a variety of hearts, but it’s a tight variety because hearts all have to do the same thing. Your kind of naturally think like — there are people who aren’t as smart as dogs, but those people are the tiny minority, and they are not public. They are institutionalized. Most people that you run into in everyday life have adequate thinking ability.
There’s not some 2 or 3 order of magnitude variation in mental power among people. However, that’s what democracy is based on and people voting. If there are some people that are only .1% as smart as other people, people would be very reluctant to engage in democracy, but there’s an assumption. It is even in our Constitution. All men are created equal.
There’s an idea that there is some level of parity among people and some people being as we — we really are how we think and act on those thoughts.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/11/15
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Jacobsen: There’s other ones such as “if you’re so smart, why can’t you hold down a job. Why are you lost in the clouds, in the fog?” Any thoughts?
Rosner: Geniuses are stereotypically absent-minded, lost in thought. Perhaps, not well-adapted for professional success and probably looking at it in terms of IQ is always a bad idea. There’s probably some optimum IQ. In terms of job getting and keeping, optimum as the highest possible IQ is probably well-below that like 140 or somebody, that person. 140, 145, 150, be able to acquire good professional skills and would be a good job candidate just on average run into not many more problems on the job than anyone else.
As you go higher, genius is made or supergenius is made, and they follow their own obsessions, might be a little Aspergery, and might not have the best manners. There’s an optimum IQ for succeeding at work. There are people at work at all different levels of IQ. We have a range of characteristics and abilities to sort of succeed at work. somebody who considers herself or himself a supergenius might be less or more eccentric or might be less willing to put with all of the BS that goes along with holding down a job. Subsuming your own interest to those of a business, or an academic enterprise.
The problems that somebody smart may have in keeping a job probably have more in common with problems other people have with jobs than not. There might be some unique, not unique, but some tendencies that are counterproductive at work that are more common among geniuses or purported geniuses. But I guess that those unique-ish problems are less common than the problems that everyone has.
Particularly since we will continue to move into the area of artisanal work, where jobs involving drudgery will continue to robotized and leaving jobs that require thought and creativity. So, the idea that geniuses are absent-minded and can’t hold down a job is probably mostly BS. With the more reasonable view being that geniuses have the same problems in life that everyone else does.
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License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/11/08
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: It seems like genius can only really properly be measured maybe when the person’s past their prime or dead. It’s in hindsight when we examine their stuff.
Rick Rosner: Well — that’s kind of a myth too. I — well, it’s both a myth and probably a reality, where you have people like Van Gogh. Did he sell one painting during his lifetime? Geniuses can be ahead of their time.
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License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/11/01
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: There’s stereotypes about nerds only being in engineering, science, computer science, and mathematics, being tortured loners, and the line between genius and madness. Any busting for those potential myths?
Rick Rosner: I don’t know what percent of the American population is of some kind of drug designed to treat mental problems, but it’s got to be more than 10% of the population. People used to like to say, and dumb people still like to say, that people only use 10% of their brains, which is just a ridiculous, meaningless comment, but it is disproven by the high percentage of people who at some point during their lives have mental difficulties, have psychological difficulties that require counselling or medication or that go untreated, but still exist.
It’s a significant chunk of the population, probably over a third. Everybody at some time during their lives has psychological difficulties. I’d say somewhat more so among geniuses, though not necessarily wildly more so. I mean geniuses tend to at some point of their lives maybe across large swathes of their lives give themselves the freedom to do what they want to do or think they should do, or decide to determine their own rules.
And this means they may behave strangely, other people who don’t allow themselves to try to be geniuses may conform more. So, you have geniuses acting or have a tendency to do what they want to do and without the pressure to conform. Geniuses may act out, act more eccentrically other people. The demands of some geniuses, so-called geniuses, artists, what people who are pushing themselves mentally to as much as they can from time to time might show more psychological effects.
Plus, it’s been romantic at various points in the 20th century for certain kinds of geniuses, artistic geniuses, to be thought of and think of themselves as people who need to get drunk all of the time. Hemingway drunk and suicidal. Fitzgerald drank himself to death. A lot of, Polick was pretty drinky. It was of the myth, the romanticism, of being a creative person or the romance of being a creative person in the 20th century and if you’re drinking and drugging that’ll make you teeter on the edge of some psychological issues.
There’s some legitimacy of the fine line between genius and madness. Also, there area bunch of crazy people thinking they are geniuses, walking around thinking they are misunderstood, and so they mess up the Bayesian genius pool there, where they’re bad advertisement for genius. So, yea, geniuses can be a little crazier than regular people, but I don’t think that every genius is always dancing on the thin edge of craziness.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/10/22
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: A more obscure topic. What are myths about genius? What busts that open?
Rick Rosner: First one that comes to mind is that geniuses lack common sense. To the — genius is sometimes accompanied by what is now called Asperger’s, when I was growing up in the 60s and 70s. It was a term, maybe, but not a widely known diagnosis, and it goes along with some other characteristics like absentmindedness.
There’s probably a kernel of truth statistically, if you take it to mean geniuses are socially awkward or Aspergery, but it is often deployed, or when it was deployed against me in junior high school and other times. It was just a way of putting me down. It was a way of say that I can operate in the world and you can’t. It prompts the questions, “Do non-geniuses have common sense?”
A lot of people don’t. Common sense is something that you gain via experience with the world, and during the era when I grew up, which was jocks vs. nerds era, cool guys and jocks actually kind of grew up a little faster socially than nerds because they got have girlfriends. They were lucky enough to be popular. Being popular, they learned how to interact with people, and probably participating in team sports helped with that. It made me less nerdy. In relationships, one of the guys I went to was one of the guys I was bouncing a bar with. A cool guy and an athlete all his life. He did all of the things in the right order. He was a jock in high school, and then an engineer in college.
I didn’t do sports successfully. In college, I was a weightlifter guy, which is self-defeating. I turned to him for relationship advice because he’d been doing it for years longer like having a girlfriend. There can be some basis for nerds being socially awkward, but that’s probably less true now because everybody can build communities online and can learn to interact in many ways besides in person, and it’s not jocks vs. nerds with things being super oppressive for nerds. That whole geniuses lacking common sense has an element of truth, but is often used in bullshittey oppressive ways.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/10/08
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: I think the most profound principle is to do it every day. If you want to be a genius at something, or competent or good at something, you should do it every day.
Rick Rosner: Yea — I think that’s related to another principle: make it easy it on yourself. I go to the gym every day, but I don’t make it miserable for myself every day. I have books, and so I read the books. I have favorite machines, and so I use those machines. I’m too lazy after all these years to move plates on a free weight machine, and so it’s easier to simply move pegs on a weight machine, but I have a long string of consecutive days of going to the gym by making it easy.
Whatever it is, make it easy on yourself to do it, don’t make it a miserable ordeal every day, sometimes you can really push and at something, but if you’re going to do something every day, then you need to figure out the ways that doing it are as unmiserable as possible. There are people who are getting in your way or making you miserable, depends on how awful they are, but do what you can to sidestep jerks.
Do what you can to confront or avoid naysayers. Some people just need to — some people after -some people need to naturally see the negative possibilities in what you’re trying to do. That’s generally not helpful, but if people aren’t dickheads or messing with you on purpose then you can always go to them and say that your negativity or there’s a better word. Your criticism or lack of belief in me when you express it to me brings me down and makes it harder to do whatever I want to do.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/08/22
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: What other abusers are there?
Rick Rosner: In America, there’s a lot. I’ll go through some of them. In America, the supposed feeble minded people were given hysterectomies or otherwise sterilized without their consent. Not a lot, but at least a hundred, and it happened in America. Also, in America, because of quotas, immigration quotas, that were based on IQ and perhaps some eugenic thinking, immigration quotes for people from Southern Europe were set real low in 1930 because people in Northern Europe were thought of by prejudiced people backed up by pseudoscientific research. Northern European people were thought of as superior, and because of this Jews were sent back to Hitler. A boatload of Jews got out of Germany at the last minute, maybe 38′, right before the gates came crashing down and made it to America, but there wasn’t room for the Jews.
These Jews in America because of immigration quotas were determined by bullshittey IQ tests and this shipload of Jews was sent back to Hitler, where almost everybody got slaughtered eventually. So, those are a couple terrible things. Beside s specific instances, you have this genetic reasoning that buttresses racism. That we still have all sorts of creeps and idiots arguing that certain races, we know which ones, might be genetically inferior or are genetically inferior, and, therefore, treat them badly in various ways.
Statistics and IQ grew up at the same time. They are both riddled with racism. That Pearson’s r coefficient Pearson was not the least racist guy in the world. There were a lot of people that tried to used statistical tools that some races were superior to others. It was a garbage exercise. In my opinion, you get a lot of — in my opinion, stress induces mental flexibility. The appropriate stress divergent thought in people and in animals, which means that the genetically super fit who are so at home in their environment are more likely than the nervous nerd to be forced to think originally, which means that the entire eugenic program or any other program that tries to establish genetic superiority for one group over another is bullshit.
That it’s part of the friction of life that generates or the friction and variety of cultural life that helps to generate original thought, and eugenics is a forced, a misguided force, against variety, particularly now. More than at any other time in history, except future history when we’ll have more resources. We have fantastic resources to supplement our so-called inborn intelligence and knowledge.
There’s always been an argument about whether nature of nurture is more important. In testing intelligence, it is an irresolvable argument. You need the interaction of both, and sometimes in paradoxical ways. Now, with the devices in our hands that contain the information and much of the wisdom that we’ve ever developed, we can be as skilled as we need to be.
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License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/08/15
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: What’s the role of genius as we move forward? In other words, what is the role of genius in the past, now, and how can we project into the future with that?
Rick Rosner: Alright, so — I think the idea of genius really kind of kicked off or started gaining the modern idea of genius probably got started with Francis Galton and his book Hereditary Genius, which I’ve got the Wikipedia in front of me right now, and he did this study of how giftedness — a series of linked biographical sketches that shows that giftedness runs in families, and he was an early eugenicist. Eugenic is the idea that you should only let the people with the right genes, good genes, reproduce because people with bad genes are a threat because they tend to reproduce more and will threaten society with the genetically inferior, and this is kind of a first reaction to Darwin’s idea of argument of survival of the fittest, but it is a scary and ultimately and bad and dumb idea.
Obviously, if you have a risk — I’m Jewish. Every Jewish person knows about Tay-Sachs disease, which is a horrible disease that runs in Jews and then kills the kid at age 3. Obviously, you want the kid to be born with that. You want to make sure that if you have the potential to be the carrier of a condition, or your spouse, you don’t want to bring some horribly and doomed to die before age 5 kid into the world. Nobody needs that kind of trouble, but some people will take that upon themselves, but most people would prefer not, but eugenics takes that way too far.
And it is historically being abused with the biggest abuser being Hitler.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/09/08
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Scott Douglas Jacobsen: We talked about math. We talked about Google search. What about writing?
Rick Rosner: The best way to acquire writing skills, writing obviously is changing drastically because most writing is now in the form of texts — I don’t know what the statistical breakdown is, but if you go by the number of written messages communicated somehow. I’m sure texts overwhelming everything else by sheer number of texts, if not in total number of words.
Texting places a premium on error where — they did a study that if you properly punctuate your texts and emails, people kind of think you’re a jerk. You are kind of tight-assed and with a stick up your butt, and so you want to leave out periods whenever possible. Which makes sense, texts are meant to be sent in haste, and so with terrible grammatical errors, autocomplete, awful spelling errors, and the statistical or I don’t know what the statistical say- say after the comment articles on news, which is a really bad habit, but somewhere in the area or on the order of 90% of post-story comments have some kind of error.
I’m not talking error in thinking because it was posted by a tea party, but just plain language error. It is rare to get through those. Anyway, so, I don’t know — you could argue although I don’t think this is accurate that we’re reverting to Shakespearean English, where people spelled things however they thought made sense. there were no set rules, I don’t think, back in the early 17th century. I think eventually dictionary makers or somebody came along and decided that let’s put English on a firm footing and make some definite rules, but those rules are kind of super-eroded right now.
However, all that aside, the best way to acquire writing skills is to read all the time starting when you’re as young as possible. Find stuff you like to read, it doesn’t matter if it is junk, but it should ideally have done, well-done thoughtful junk. Even though it has little educational value, at least somebody did a lot of hard thinking to make it as good and entertaining as possible. You’re not going to learn any math or science from the harry Potter books, but they’re really well written and edited, but find the best of the stuff that you like and then read that all of the time.
Just if there are certain websites that generate a lot of written material, go there, read them all of the time, just — as, you can spend as much time looking at the printed word in a day as you do looking at other visual media that isn’t written word based. And eventually, you will inevitably absorb a sense of or you’ll acquire a sense of good writing, of smooth writing, of many of the — of most of the non-written rules of grammar.
People who 20 years ago people who taught the SAT to tell people that if you want to read one thing read the WSJ because they have a lot of SAT vocabulary words, and that’s obsolete information and going to be a little weird to have a kid reading the Wall Street Journal, but extensive reading is still the key to eventually turning into a competent writer, and eventually you have to write. Worry more about — over the course of your life, you should spend at least ten times as much time reading as writing.
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License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/09/01
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Let’s talk about the bad old days, the days before Google and search.
Rick Rosner: That makes a good point in terms of you ought to have good web searching skills because it’s such a crazy huge resource. I grew up in Colorado and at the University we had the biggest university in the state and possibly the biggest library between, I ‘unno, California and Texas, or Arizona. It was the biggest library in several states for hundreds and hundreds and even a thousand miles in every direction. It had –
University of Colorado had a million volumes, which is huge. The public library had maybe 60 to 80,000 volumes, supposedly, but probably had be stolen and never returned from their card catalogue. Boulder had a lot of bookstores. You could try hitting bookstore. Each bookstore maybe had 8–10,000 volumes.
Compare that to Google, which depending on which statistic you look at, has either 47 billion web page or 30 trillion web pages. So at least 47,000 times more items in Google, but still 47,000 thousand more items to look than the biggest library for a thousand miles, and you don’t have to search through the library. Later, I moved to New York, where I was a fact checker for a quiz show. I checked facts. This was 87′, 88′, 89′. We called people on the phone who might know something and we asked them using a phone book. [Laughing]
[Laughing]
And try to get them to answer stuff, to move forward, I first went online in 1995, and the internet sucked ass. The odds that the internet could answers your question about any given thing was about 1 in 4, but now everything is up there. For a while, on Twitter, I was looking for or making fun of sexy Halloween costumes, which meant that I was doing Google image search with sex plus some random word: sex cheese, sexy raisin, sexy crib, sex plus anything. It gives you dozens and dozens of images.
And odds are somebody has done something to make a crib sexy somewhere and Google has it. It’s just a reasonable slice of or nice thick slice that we as humans know plus a bunch of non-sense that is also interesting because non-sense has value too. All available within the time it takes to type a few words, which is kings didn’t have it 20 years ago. The richest man in the world didn’t have it 20 years ago, and it doesn’t have to make you smarter, but it could.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/08/22
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: I used to do those calculations, but not for a girlfriend — to fall asleep.
Rick Rosner: Carole and I chaperoned a prom and a pretty hoity toity high school, and I didn’t [Laughing] any of that desperation in 95% of kids at the prom. It seemed so undesperate that is was weird. Partly, I think it’s people have more information now than I did in high school, and more of a community outside of high school. You can build your own community via media, and people are just not as dumb and ignorant as my friends and I were who thought we would never have sex before we die, but five minutes of statistics to us about that might have set us straight or we might have continued to wallow in our desperation.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/08/15
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: You were born — you’re 56 — in 1960. You have some skills that you developed that are math skills that were relevant at some previous time and less now.
Rick Rosner: I don’t know. I started to develop the math skills and was ready to develop them. In junior high, I was terrible at PE, which was typical of nerds at the time. Maybe still. So, the coach would sit me on the risers, on the bleachers, and I wouldn’t watch my male classmates play basketball because I didn’t give a crap. Instead, I watched the girls and started to get a boner in case the coach called me back in and to not get a boner I’d do powers of 2 in my head, and I got really good at doing powers 2 2, and I got way past 2 to the 10th, which is 1,024 to 2 to the 20th, which is 1084576, 2 to the 30th, 1073 somethin’, and I got up into the 2 to the 40th or 50th or whatever, but this is also about the same year that calculators came out.
It was immediately apparent that there was little point in being a human calculator. I would’ve tried anything to get a girlfriend, but somehow calculating seemed even to me a hopeless proposition. [Laughing] at girlfriend getting [Laughing] Hopeless girlfriends getting [Laughing].
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/08/08
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: You were born — you’re 56 — in 1960. You have some skills that you developed that are math skills that were relevant at some previous time and less now.
Rick Rosner: I don’t know. I started to develop the math skills and was ready to develop them. In junior high, I was terrible at PE, which was typical of nerds at the time. Maybe still. So, the coach would sit me on the risers, on the bleachers, and I wouldn’t watch my male classmates play basketball because I didn’t give a crap. Instead, I watched the girls and started to get a boner in case the coach called me back in and to not get a boner I’d do powers of 2 in my head, and I got really good at doing powers 2 2, and I got way past 2 to the 10th, which is 1,024 to 2 to the 20th, which is 1084576, 2 to the 30th, 1073 somethin’, and I got up into the 2 to the 40th or 50th or whatever, but this is also about the same year that calculators came out.
It was immediately apparent that there was little point in being a human calculator. I would’ve tried anything to get a girlfriend, but somehow calculating seemed even to me a hopeless proposition. [Laughing] at girlfriend getting [Laughing] Hopeless girlfriends getting [Laughing].
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/08/01
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: What I’m gathering from what you’re saying is that concepts are more important than precision or that the precision with which you can explain a concept that you observe or conceive is more important.
Rick Rosner: It is getting hard to imagine situations in which you’re entirely on your own when you’re trying to figure out what is going on. I do a lot of mental math because I’ve got OCD in that direction. I’ve worked on my estimation skills. I can look at a flock of birds and get within 10/15% of the birds within the flock by doing Rain Man stuff.
Though, Rain Man would break things down into groups and clusters. There’s a scene where Rain man counts 246 toothpicks that have fallen out of some container, and he did it by breaking it into 82 groups of three, the falling toothpicks. I can’t do that, but I can count by clusters, which I think he was pretty good at, but there aren’t many instances in which knowing how many birds are flying over your head is very helpful.
Though we did take a family trip and I did get crapped on by a bird, and the bird estimation did help me develop a good model for the odds of getting crapped on, and the odds of getting crapped on twice in my life to the amount of time on average that there’s a bird directly over me. I forget what the math was. Maybe, it was one five thousandth of the time. Again, not the most helpful thing, better to know how to Google really well.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/07/22
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Just give us a primer, why is mental math less important now? What math skills are more important now?
Rick Rosner: In terms of getting along in the world?
Jacobsen: Yea.
Everybody knows it, but that knowing stuff is less important than knowing how it find stuff, and it’s been that way ever since the internet got good. But you have to know what you need to know, part of that is skill at coming up with mathematical models of the world around you, being able to estimate stuff, being able to break the world down into — being able to understand the world well-enough to be able to know what you need to look up to see what’s going on, a lot of which is modelling.
Not like the stuff that Kylie and Kendall Jenner do, but you figure out a system that explains, roughly — that tries to roughly explain what you’re dealing with, what you’re trying to analyze. Though as references get more sophisticated, you don’t — there’s less and less of that that you need to do in most instances. You just need to come up with the right words to describe what you’re seeing and odds are now compared to 20 years ago when the internet sucked that there is something on the internet that will tell you more of less what is going on.
Whether it’s a set of medical symptoms or something that you’re thinking about buying stock in, or you’re trying to figure out whether reverse mortgages are a rip-off, they are. Though if you don’t care how much money you lead your heirs, they can still be a thing that you do.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/07/15
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: You have a tattoo. It says “born to do math.” It seems indicative of what you’re best at.
Rick Rosner: It reminds me of what I should be doing when I am not doing anything or when I being stupid.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen and Rick Rosner
Publication (Outlet/Website): Medium (Rick Rosner)
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/07/08
[Beginning of recorded material]
Scott Douglas Jacobsen: Let’s talk about being a bad person and a genius.
Rick Rosner: I wouldn’t call it a bad person as much as being a dick. Mengele called himself a doctor, but he was sadistic and used to get off brutal and often fatal experiments on fatal. That’s a bad guy. Picasso who used his position as a genius who banged a lot of different women and behaved badly with women. That’s a different kind of badness. That’s more dickishness. And obviously I’m not in favour of Mengele behavior, and I’m not in favour of Picasso behaviour, but they’re two different magnitudes.
One thing that runs through the biographies of many great geniuses are their doing whatever they wanted and not doing whatever they didn’t want to do, and probably some of them using their supposed genus as leverage to do whatever the fuck they wanted to do, but you don’t have to be a genius to do that.
Justin Bieber may or may not be a musical genius, but he uses his fame to do whatever he wants and it’s hard for people to tell him no. Michael Jackson pretty much a genius did whatever he wanted even when it became super creepy. I’m not in favour of people not being able to be told no because that’s what killed Elvis. That’s what killed Michael Jackson. It may turn out to be what killed Prince. So, it’s bad for the genius and it’s probably bad for the people around them.
I don’t know. Elvis had a zillion hangers-on. They are parasites at the same time he needs friends. I’m not worried about the Elvis buddies, whether life is good or bad for them. There’s something to be said for looking at your life and if there’s stuff that is time-wasting bullshit then to not deal with it unless it is cruel not to deal with it.
It’s not fair to blow off your long-suffering spouses who has put up with you, and helped you with your geniusey stuff in favour of a newer model or the possibility of a newer model. In the case where you meet somebody and fall in love with the, after you’ve been married to somebody else for 20 years. That’s another deal I fortunately haven’t had to confront.
But also the idea of fucking around, I consider somewhat obsolete in this era. It’s old-school. It is something you think of a creepy old senator doing. The whole Ashley Madison thing — if you look at people that get caught with lots of women, they are usually terrible. Tiger Woods’s women were yucky. They had no problem rolling over on him and selling their stories.
partly the problem was the problem was nobody ever said no to Tiger Woods and he’d been famous since he was 3 and he developed no game, and his skills of meeting quality women if he wanted to meet them and discrimination among women was kind of lacking. That whole game is dumb when every single computer is a smorgasbord of porn.
the people you’re going to get involved with when you go the Ashley Madison route or the craigslist sex stuff are not likely to be the best people, and you save yourself some hassle and look at the smut on your computer. I know that’s a dicey subject, but really it’s, maybe there’s some kind of more sexually free future that we’re moving into where people will be able to come together and break apart with less consequence or people with less consequences.
Right now, use your computer as the porn store.
[End of recorded material]
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/06/23
Kim Stevenson founded The Autonomous Collections a few years ago with a clear and thoughtful idea in mind inspired by her experiences of extreme weather and global warming in her native Geelong Australia. Her collections are all sustainably and ethically made in London. Here is her story.
Tell us about your background ?
My father went to live in Australia with his family when he was 10. He was born in Kent, UK. He was always very creative and worked as a park ranger. My mum was born in South Australia, Adelaide and met my father while working at my father’s family restaurant. We were bought up feeling quite free when it came to religion. My father was more religious than my mother. While they always made us aware, they allowed us to make our own decisions about what we believed.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
I am originally from Geelong, Australia. My father was very creative and I always wanted to learn new things. We were always making things, carving, pottery, painting and drawing. I loved to draw and would ask my father’s opinion as I went along. We didn’t grow up with much money but my parents would always make sure we had enough petrol in the car for a weekend adventure somewhere. My parents loved fashion and loved to shop at the charity shop (which I hated). I would sometimes have a different uniform to everyone else and it felt really embarrassing until I started customize my clothes. As soon as everyone else started to customize theirs, I felt okay about it.
I went through high school and wasn’t sure what I wanted to do. I went to TAFE to study hospitality management for 2 years and from then on I worked in some top hotels and wineries in Australia. I wanted to study again but I always wanted to travel. My father used to tell me stories of his childhood in London. So I decided to come to the UK when I was 23. I travelled a little, my money ran out very quickly and had to get a job. I fell in love, a few years later had a baby and when he was three, I decided to get back to what I really wanted to do.
As I hadn’t been at school for a while, I studied an art and design foundation degree for a year to allow me to figure out what direction I wanted to go in. Originally I wanted to study Fine Art. But as I had a family to support I felt that I could merge my art with fashion. I went on to complete a BA in Fashion Design at the University of East London.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion? How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
I’ve always been interested in ethical/sustainable approaches. I use to always find random materials to create with. I used to use my mother’s old curtains and play ‘weddings’ up and down the garden with my friends. A mixture of a willingness to play around whilst being pretty conscious of Australia’s extreme weather conditions, made me grow up with a thoughtful ideal in terms of how to value what I owned.
When I studied my art and design foundation I wanted to make my own paper so went around and collected everyone’s old newspapers and made lots of textured papers. I love the whole recycling process and knew I wanted to take this through to university. The more I read about ethical fashion and how much waste went to landfill actually made me sick. This was where I really knew I wanted to create an ethical clothing brand.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies? What is the importance of fair trade?
It is so sad when large companies can price their garments so low by any means necessary to humanity.
All it does is water down the selection of our wardrobe, making people not care what they buy, as they can always throw it out or buy something new without even thinking who it has effected or the hard work someone has put into that garment.
Millions of tons per year go to landfill and that, for me alone, is one reason why ethical companies are so important.
Not to mention the working conditions or low wages these people get. Since becoming a designer it has made me so conscious and appreciate the hard work it takes to make a single garment.
When something becomes the ‘norm’ it is hard for the world to see any different. It is only through education that we can change that.
It takes ‘we’ as a community to come together and shout about this importance.
What is The Autonomous Collections?
The Autonomous Collections is a directional young brand which takes an ethical approach to fabrication and design. We are womenswear, but we do have some statement pieces which are unisex. Our process is to design first, then find ways to create each step ethically. Our ethos is to appeal to a confident, young, old and young in spirit audience in order to promote ethics in production and consumption.
It is Our Mission to be as ethical as possible and to inspire other brands to follow. It’s not an easy way to develop a business, but it is a rewarding one.
What inspired the title of the organization?
AUTONOMOUS – Meaning, having the freedom to act independently.
Autonomous for me means a strong sense of identity which and self-expression. A contemporary look that defines the wearer irrespective of age, race, gender or personal style.
What are some of its feature products?
We cover all types of garments, Jackets, sweaters, skirts, dresses, jeans and so on. We make all the products here in our studio in London. What characterises us is our contemporary urban design aesthetic with fabrication techniques and cultural influences from around the world. Each collection has a story behind the process but still carries the signature such as, fringing, weaving, denim and the use of natural fibers with a relaxed silhouette.
If I was to say one or two products it would be our organic denim jacket with wool fringing and organic sweatshirt lining and our tassel skirt made from scrap fabric, yarns and wool.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
Our focus is to use as many natural/organic fibers as possible with in the design. But it really does depend on our story behind the collections. It may be that we have created one off or limited pieces within the collection that have the use of up-cycling or found fabrics in them. We also have some fabrics from a factory in Spain that use the cabbage from the factory floor. After the garments have been cut they re-spin the fibers into new fabrics (therefore we are unsure of the exact fiber content). Some of our acrylic yarns used in the weaving process are from the Woman’s Institute. The Women’s Institute (WI) was formed in 1915 to revitalise rural communities and encourage women to become more involved in producing food during the First World War. Since then the organisation’s aims have broadened and the WI is now the largest voluntary women’s organisation in the UK. The WI celebrated its centenary in 2015 and currently has almost 220,000 members in approximately 6,300 WIs.
The WI plays a unique role in providing women with educational opportunities and the chance to build new skills, to take part in a wide variety of activities and to campaign on issues that matter to them and their communities.
So if we do use any manmade fibers we really take into consideration the thought about supporting good causes throughout the world.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of The Autonomous Collections?
We are only a small company and it is myself and a small team of students and graduates who more want to learn about ethical fashion and how they can use this in their work.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
I would say that 90% of our products will yes.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
At the moment our age range is 20-40-year-old woman mostly based in the EU. Our customer is a person who has an appreciation of hand craft and forward thinking. They are unique and like to be different. Through our design process we try to ensure that each garment is different. Whether it be a different color lining, hand embroidered logo or different pattern through the cutting. They will always find something different to the next wearer. They like to feel comfortable and have a love for creativity.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations, women and children, in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
For individuals, you can ask questions when you purchase something. ‘Where are the clothes made’? ‘Who made them’? It is a knock on effect. If we continue to ask these questions, it will make retail staff ask the questions and so forth the education getting wider and higher. If you buy from companies who don’t support these rights, you are just contributing and supporting these vulnerable communities.
For designers, it is our job to be aware about our suppliers and if you can, visit the premises where the clothes, fabrics are made. Or if you can’t get there, research and ask questions to see if other companies have. If you care, they will care.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at most levels. Why?
Men never used to sew. They were the ones who went to war or built things. While the woman stayed home, prepared the food, looked after the children. I think as boundaries everywhere are broken it allows others to be accepted. This has been happening for centuries and these things take time for people and the world to be in sync and to become educated to another way of thinking. It will and is happening, it will just take time.
What might make men more involved in the fashion world in general?
Our acceptance. No judgement in particular from other men. Many think you have to be gay to be a designer. As a designer it is not just about making clothes but a whole process. You need to co-ordinate color, research, draw lines etc. Doesn’t that sound like an artist? If a man said to another man, ‘I am an artist’ is that more acceptable. It took a long time for an artist to be recognized as a real job or profession so how is a man in the fashion industry any different?
What might make men more involved in the ethical and sustainable fashion world in general?
A male figure in the sustainable community. Whether it be a male designer or public figures which most men look up to, making the change.
Will having men in the discussion and on-the-ground improve the implementation of children’s and women’s rights?
Yes. It is one thing for a woman to stick up for other woman but when a man does it, it will other men think about the way they behave. I’m sure it would not be an easy fight but the more men who get involved the better.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
It is so much hard work starting a fashion label and sometimes very stressful. I forget to look back at what I have done until someone reminds me all I have accomplished in two years. Sometimes I feel like I have done nothing. When people approach me saying they love what I do I feel so thankful that I have spread the word a little further. I get to be creative, doing what I love, be involved in this movement of making the world a better place and as hard as the fashion industry is I still continue my effort to think about the bigger picture.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
We are being involved in a University charity event in February where they are hoping to raise money to support The International Rescue Committee, a charity which responds to humanitarian crises all over the world, predominantly in Syria. They provide essential healthcare, food, security and protection for vulnerable men, women and children whose lives have been torn apart by conflict.
The IRC provides safe houses for those in need as well as psychological support to deal with the aftermath of trauma. It also helps communities rebuild their infrastructure and teaches them new skills to ensure sustainability. Furthermore, the charity strives to empower refugees through educating them in ways which enable them to sustainably recover and change the direction of their futures.
We are working on a new collection where we will be working with a fair trade factory in Cambodia and hoping to be involved in more charity events to come.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
No not really. I am so busy with work and family it is hard to catch up with these.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, The Autonomous Collections?
We can be contacted at info@theautonomouscollections.com or follow us on
Facebook https://www.facebook.com/theautonomouscollections/
Instagram https://www.instagram.com/the_autonomous_collections/
Twitter https://www.twitter.com/theautonomousc
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
Limited access to funding and balancing work and family life.
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in personal life for you?
I think having a family and a business is always hard especially when you are over the other side of the world.
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
I just believe in things like-
‘What goes around, comes around’
‘Respect others’ and so forth….
I am a bit of a realist when it comes to your future. I believe you have to work hard for anything you want in life.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
Thank you for having me and letting me tell you about The Autonomous Collections and my views on ethical fashion.
Thank you for your time, Kim.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/06/09
FORMAT features products with clean shapes, defined details and confident lines for relaxed but well dressed women and men. The FORMAT collections are partly independent from seasons and every style is made of organic and fair sourced materials and produced in and around Berlin.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
While studying fashion design (2003-2008) I found out about the conditions in the industry and decided not to develop and design that way.
What is FORMAT?
FORMAT’s designs are essentially minimalistic. This minimalism is accentuated by details that make a freedom of movement possible while giving the clothes their laid-back look. FORMAT products stand for the distinctive, individual, and unmasked style of each individual. They bring out his or her best qualities and thus remain a durable companion.
All FORMAT products are made considering high ecological and ethical standards. Our raw materials are organic; the cotton fabrics are certified by GOTS or produced according to similar organic standards. All of our clothing is made locally in Berlin, Brandenburg and Poland.
The FORMAT collection is partly independent from seasons because sustainability implies for us that clothes not ought to be old-fashioned after 6-month. We aspire a high level of eternalness in our styles: Some few items won’t be reproduced again. Some pieces accomplish the collection since the early beginning of FORMAT and this collection keeps on growing by about ten pieces, new fabrics and colors every season.
Primarily we are concentrating on B2B business. We sell our clothing to mid and higher priced shops and retailers in Germany and now to retailers in other European countries. Nevertheless, anyone can have a look at the clothes in WESEN showroom, which is our base and an insiders’ shopping tip for Berliners and visitors since July.
What inspired the title of the organization?
It fits to our style. Graphic, minimal, simple but comfortable.
We neither want to be millionaires nor rule the world. We just want to be able to do what makes us happy. With amazing colleagues in a comfortable work environment. Currently we have to make compromises to create this. While sticking to our quality standards, fair production and realistic retail prices aren’t quite at our dream wages, yet. Our prices are calculated reasonably. Decreasing costs leads to decreasing prices. We reinvest our profits in new machines and slowly but surely increase the wages. We don’t do any advertising and we don’t pay anyone to wear our clothes or to say or to write good things about us. Our customer service is always honest because we are convinced that short-term economic successes are not sustainable and valuable. We believe, maybe somewhat naively, that we are able to influence single people or even larger society with what we do.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
Organic cotton wovens and knits by GOTS certified manufacturers.
Not only our clothes are supposed to be ecological and fair. One of our most valued goals is for the designs to be timeless. Our clothes aren’t only available for one season. We live sustainably at WESEN the same way we do in our private homes. We recycle and try to avoid waste, we use eco electricity and gas and for lunch we take turns in cooking (mostly eco and always vegetarian/vegan) for the whole team. Quite undogmatic.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
Most of them. Unfortunately, we could not find biodegradable sewing yarn so these threads are still made of plastics, for longer living of the seams and the clothing itself.
What personal fulfilment comes from this work for you?
Every day is different. that’s exciting.
How can ethical and sustainable fashion contribute to the long-term sustainable future for the atmosphere, the biosphere, and the environment?
Having a circular usefulness including waste and recycling should be the aim when developing any product.
Certifications, or standards and labelling, remain important, which associate with analysis. These include Fairtrade International, MADE-BY, the Ethical Trading Initiative Base Code, the Soil Association label and the EKOlabel, the Oko-Tex standard 100 mark, and the European Eco-Label for Textile Products, and more. There’s many. Do these help systematize and clarify, or obfuscate and confuse?
I think that it is necessary to work on such topics from many directions so as in many different organisations. It helps to find a winder angle on looking at problems and solutions that can be found. sooner or later if organisations work in same fields they anyway connect and coop. so it will lead to a clarification anyway.
What seems like the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
Staying alive It is not so easy to compete with a little company as mine on a market as big as it is. but it is also exciting to proceed.
LOCK dress
knee-lengthed dress with a pleated neckline, pockets and a curved hem
the soft semi-transparent fabric allows you to have fun layering
can be worn with the belt or without
100% organic cotton
the ecological fabric of this item is made by a GOTS certified manufacturer
What seems like the greatest emotional struggle in personal life for you?
Staying optimistic becomes not easier while becoming older.
Thank you for your time, Mareike.
Thanks for asking.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2018/08/20
Interview with Asia Clarke – CEO & Creative Director, Wild Moon Jewelry
Asia Clarke, CEO & Creative Director of Wild Moon Jewelry, speaks with Scott Douglas Jacobsen.
Jacobsen: As a youngster, what were some pivotal moments to set the life path for you, in fashion?
Asia Clarke: When I was in high school I was really into punk rock and old school 70s and 80s funk music (because of my parents’ awesome music taste). I went to a catholic high school and had to wear uniforms everyday, but I always looked forward to “Dress Down Day” which happened once a month. I remember my regular wardrobe being a mix of goth outfits and 80s exercise outfits that I would mash up to create my own style. Peers used to make fun of me by calling me Fefe Dobson because of the rock influence in my personal style as a young black girl, but I didn’t care because I knew I stood out and I was dedicated to being creative in the way I adorned my body.
Jacobsen: Did education help in the development of skills relevant to the interests in fashion?
Clarke: I studied environmental science at York University in Toronto, and my research interests were always the socio-cultural implications of pollution and environmental degradation. It is with this lens I approach jewelry design – I try my best to manifest the Wild Moon Jewelry brand into an example of how we can create new cultural artifacts with a conscious respect for Mother Earth. I was also educated at the Academy of Jewelry Art in Trinidad and Tobago, a place that has greatly shaped my own cultural identity.
Jacobsen: Wild Moon Jewelry is within the global movement of ethical and sustainable fashion. As a fine jewelry company, what is the inspiration behind its title?
Clarke: Wild Moon stands for all the interconnected beauty in the world that we cannot begin to comprehend. ‘Wild’ is for the intuitive nature of all beings, and ‘Moon’ is to acknowledge our connection to celestial beings. I hope to inspire wearers to be aware of their greater place in the world and in the universe. My use of recycled and repurposed materials is my own solution to the need to create earth centred and ethical personal adornment for people worldwide.
Jacobsen: What were some of the first products sold by the company?
Clarke: I have always done bead and wire work in necklaces, earrings and rings incorporating semi precious stones such as quartz, onyx, turquoise and pyrite just to name a few. I have used them because I know these stones can represent and enhance the symbiotic relationship between people and their intuition through the earths minerals.
Jacobsen: How does a company CEO ensure the socially and environmentally friendly aspects of the source of the materials for the company’s products being sold?
Clarke: For different businesses the process to sourcing ethical and socially responsible materials is different. For my business, I try my best to visit the direct source of materials I am using in order to be sure that I am sourcing the best materials for my designs. For example, in this collection I use recycled glass beads from Ghana. I visited the factory myself where they were made and witnessed the process by which the factory collected glass bottles and used traditional techniques to produce beautiful beads for jewelry designs. I also use a lot of recycled materials in the Kokrobitey Collection that was diverted from waste sites.
Jacobsen: How are the Obrapa Women’s Group and the Kokrobitey Institute in Accra, Ghana helping with some of the products?
Clarke: The Obrapa Women’s Group is a collective of awesome women in Accra, Ghana that work together to make jewelry as a means of economic and personal empowerment. They also work as peer educators for HIV / AIDS affected communities in underserved areas in Accra. They use traditional jewelry techniques with glass beads made locally in Ghana for their designs. I have partnered with them to design their last two collections which are available in Wild Moon Jewelry’s online store.
The Kokrobitey Institute is an art, design and sustainable development centre just outside of Accra, Ghana. At the Kokrobitey Institute I recently completed an artist residency where I created a body of work using recycled materials diverted from waste sites to create one of a kind jewelry pieces. This one of a kind collaboration is also available in my online store.
Jacobsen: Will there be collaboration with the group and the institute in the future?
Clarke: I hope so! The Obrapa Women’s Group and Kokrobitey Institute are both based in Ghana and I plan to return to Ghana in early 2019.
Jacobsen: Where do you hope to take Wild Moon Jewelry into 2019?
Clarke: I love making jewelry and learning new techniques to expand designs using as ethically sourced materials as possible. I hope to be able to learn new jewelry skills every year. I also have a passion for working with Women and Girls in personal and social development projects so I plan expand the scope of Wild Moon Jewelry to incorporate this.
Jacobsen: Thank you for the opportunity and your time, Asia.
Clarke: Thank you too!
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/07/08
Vintage Inspired Ethical Designs is a new eco friendly vintage inspired contemporary fashion label based in Adelaide. The owner/designer, Helen Minogue develops her designs in Adelaide, and after many months of searching finally sourced home workers using traditional methods to weave, dye and print to make the eco friendly fabrics she wanted to work with, in India.
Tell us about your background
I was born and raised in South Australia to Anglo-Celtic parents. I was raised and educated as a Catholic. My father’s parents lived in New Guinea when he was a child and he was sent to Australia to boarding school from young age. My mother was born and raised in Adelaide and her parents were second-generation Irish. When my mother was growing up there was considerable discrimination against Irish Catholics to the extent that job advertisements would place the acronym CNNA – which stood for “Catholics need not apply”.
My mother’s grandmother would tell stories of when the English ‘invaded Ireland’ (as she called it), they stopped population speaking Gaelic and the children from being educated. So despite being raised a white Anglo Celt in a middle-class family I was made aware from a young age of the discrimination that can occur between groups of people and the long term and far reaching impacts this can have.
Tell us about your story and how you got into fashion?
I have come late to the fashion industry and with no formal training or relevant industry experience. I initially trained and worked as a registered nurse before then moving into the field of occupational health & safety. The compulsory purchase of my house and being made redundant lead me to decide to pursue a lifelong dream of having my own fashion label.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I have always taken an interest in Human Rights so I was well aware of the ‘sweat shops’ being used by many fashion houses and especially any label that was offering clothing at very cheap prices.
So when I decided I was going to start my own label being ethical was a given and that is why it appears in my label name. It was when I started looking for an ethical supplier that I learned just how bad the fashion industry was in relation to pollution and waste and I felt I just could not knowingly be a part of that facet of the industry. Thus I began looking for organic fabrics and natural dyes.
As my designs are inspired by the vintage era my thinking behind my designs was that they would be more ‘timeless’ and therefore not impacted by the seasonal trends, I also hope that they are pieces that people will want to wear for years thus removing them from the fast fashion stream.
What seems like the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
These designers and companies have 2 influencer roles, especially as there are more around. Firstly, we can impact upon the consumers by educating them about ethical and sustainable fashion and the benefits for everyone moving forward – this is particularly important for designers of teen fashion because if they can be educated at that stage of their buying journey it can impact them for the future.
The 2nd way I see us being influencers is upon governments in things like getting new sustainable crops grown, tax reductions on sustainable clothing, supporting initiative’s for used clothing use.
What makes slow fashion better than fast fashion?
Fast fashion is usually mass-produced clothing that has everyone looking the same; it is made from synthetic materials, which come from a polluting factory and are designed to be worn only a few times and then thrown out – as because it is no longer ‘on trend’.
Slow fashion is made from organic fabric using natural dyes and will provide a unique piece that does not belong to a season and people will want to wear them year after year.
What is the importance of animal rights, especially in an ethical and sustainable fashion context?
Just like people animals as sentient beings have the right to be treated in a humane manner, if you are presenting yourself as ethical then by very choice of that word requires the appropriate action.
What is Vintage Inspired Ethical Designs?
A new label that takes inspiration for designs from the 1920’s to 1960’s. It is currently doing ladies daywear. The clothes are designed with a timeless flair so that they can become wardrobe staples
What inspired the title of the organization?
I wanted the title to clearly explain what the label was about (this was before I had become eco conscious) and Vied means struggled/strived which I thought was apt for what I was starting and also for working with ethical companies
What are some of its feature products?
Organic hand loomed, hand dyed and block printed by hand fabrics
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
Organic cotton, organic linen, organic khadi, organic nettle, wood fibre.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Vintage Inspired Ethical Designs?
I design the clothes here in Adelaide, Australia. The growers and the manufacturers of the fabrics are local men and women from a number of villages across northern and north/western India. I choose the fabric and commission a bulk quantity (there is no capacity for sampling you have to commit), once the fabric is ready 5-6 weeks it is taken to the ‘factory’ in Mumbai – this factory consists of only about 7 people and they pay award wages.
Water use in production is an issue. What is the importance of reducing excess water use in the production of fashion?
As water is a precious resource, this is a very important issue facing the fashion industry. I am conscious that organic cotton uses less water than non-organic but it still uses a fair amount of water, so for my next collection I want to investigate the use of bamboo as an alternative but I do have concerns about the manufacturing process so this is what I need to look into further.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
Yes, they are all organic so break down quite easily.
What is the customer base – the demographics?
Any age would suit my clothes, however I have specifically designed them for women 35+ and up as they are designed to fit women with realistic figures.
What topics most interest you?
New organic fabric developments, new sustainable crops, up-cycling ideas, ways to overcome the disposable society we have become (like the café in the USA where you can take broken kettles etc. and people will help you try to fix it instead of throwing it out and buying a new one).
Thank you for your time, Helen.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/06/13
Megan started Tuli to help empower women and bring us sustainable and ethical jewellery made in Uganda. Every purchase puts money directly into the hands of the woman who made it, empowering them to feed their families, educate their children, and rise out of poverty.
Tell us about your background and your journey to sustainable fashion.
I grew up in the Pacific Northwest, and though my family moved around a lot, I consider Seattle home. Moving around so much made me adaptable which I think, years later, was instrumental in starting Tuli. When doing business in a developing country, things are constantly changing and supply sources aren’t always as reliable, so you need a lot of backup plans and flexibility to build a large brand.
Tell us about your story and how you got started in Fashion?
Before starting Tuli, I worked as a journalist. I’ve always admired storytelling’s ability to create change, and I hoped to do that in my career by writing about people and places people otherwise wouldn’t experience. I studied journalism and creative writing in college, and then lived in Florida for a year working for a small newspaper before moving to Tokyo to work as a freelance journalist. While there, I was sent to Uganda on a writing assignment, and that’s how Tuli began. After that trip, at 24, I started the company.
Before my career in journalism, I worked as a fashion model to help pay for college. Although I only did it around my school schedule and it was never a huge goal of mine, my experience in the industry taught me a lot of about the fashion industry that eventually made Tuli possible.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I’ve been interested in global development and poverty eradication for as long as I can remember, so throughout college and my early career I worked with several nonprofit organizations and realized that many organizations spend most of their time trying to raise money, which isn’t sustainable. After spending some time in Africa and SE Asia, I realized that donations alone aren’t solving the problem of poverty. I became increasingly interested in social business not just because businesses have sustainable income and don’t rely on fundraising, but also because my experience showed me that economic development is the key to ending poverty.
My interest in ethical and sustainable fashion in general comes both from my interest in social business and my experience in the fashion industry. The longer I modeled, the more I saw firsthand just how big the industry is. Consumers flock to certain brands and bring their money along with them, and the more I learned about how most of what we consume is made, the more uncomfortable I became. Fashion shouldn’t hurt people, and it doesn’t need to. It’s possible to create a quality, stylish product that is made under safe conditions and provides fair wages to its makers at a reasonable price.
What seems like the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
Right now, consumers don’t have much access to ethically produced fashion, and that’s a problem. Market research shows that consumers prefer fair fashion, even if it costs more, but access is an issue. Consumers still have to go out of their way to buy ethical fashion, and until recently, finding affordable and stylish options was difficult. I’ve seen this changing in the last several years, and I’m so excited to see so many ethical brands growing and to see companies pivoting to meet consumer demand. Ethical and sustainable companies are vital because they give consumers a new option for their dollars.
What is the importance of fair trade to you?
Fair, transparent trade safeguards makers. It’s not uncommon in developing countries to hear of or meet people sewing products for people overseas for obscenely low wages that barely cover their materials. Why do they agree to this? Because if they have no other employment options, they’re faced with a choice between earning next to nothing, or earning nothing. Fair trade stops this type of exploitation in marketplaces.
Whatis the importance of a (relative to the country) living wage?
Living wages fight poverty. At Tuli, we pay living wages to all our artisans because we want to empower them to rise out of poverty. By earning a living wage, they aren’t only able to feed their families and pay for basic expenses, but they are also able to invest in education for themselves and their children and practice long-term savings so unexpected costs (such as a medical bill) don’t derail their lives. One of my favorite stories is of Florence, an artisan who used her income to go back to school and eventually got a job as a headmistress at a school in Kampala. We miss her, but we were happy to see her quit: Something as simple as jewelry turned her life around.
What makes slow fashion better than fast fashion?
Slow fashion has meaning behind it. When I wear a Tuli piece, I’m reminded of where it came from, the impact it had, and the hard work that went into it. If I wear a piece of fast fashion, I don’t think much of it beyond if it matches my outfit. When talking about ethical fashion, the conversation usually centers on the makers, but the wearers also benefit. Owning and wearing a piece that has impact is special and meaningful to Tuli’s customers. Fashion should make people feel good about themselves, and knowing the story behind a product promotes this.
The Ethical Fashion Forum developed the Ethical Policy Framework. An ethical policy framework tool for those devoted to enactment of ethical and sustainable purchases, production, and business decisions. What do services such as these perform for the public, consumers, producers, and businesspeople?
These types of frameworks help both producers and consumers. On the production side, they help ensure that the best intentions have the best results. Unfortunately, in my time working with Tuli, I’ve realized that many similar organizations with admirable goals aren’t always helping as much as they’d think. For example, a popular business model for companies selling paper bead jewelry is to employ women for several months or even several years before “graduating” them from the program. The idea is that, in the time they were making jewelry, the artisans were taught a job skill: jewelry making. The problem is, a woman selling jewelry in Uganda likely won’t make much money; the market is saturated and buyers are few. Many artisans who formerly worked for some of my biggest competitors are now on Tuli’s team, and when I met them, they were still living in poverty; they tell me their time with the other organizations was great – until it ended. Frameworks like the one developed by the Ethical Fashion Forum ensure that producers are focusing on impact first.
At the same time, these frameworks help consumers. As the founder of an ethical business, I spend a lot of time thinking about impact and sustainability, but consumers may not be as intimately acquainted with ethical overseas production. Using tools like the Ethical Policy Framework, customers can ensure that when they buy, they are truly supporting ethical brands.
What is Tuli?
Tuli is a brand that fights poverty by creating sustainable jobs in Uganda. We sell handmade jewelry that is focused on both style and impact, and we pay the women who make our products fair, living wages. Because they have an income they can rely on, our partners are empowered to rise out of poverty.
What inspired the title of the organization?
“Tuli” means “we are” in Luganda, one of the languages spoken in Uganda. We picked this name because it embodies the idea of collaborative solutions to poverty. Consumers from all over the world purchase Tuli products, and each of them is creating real change in Uganda by putting money directly into the hands of our artisans.
What are some of its feature products?
Tuli sells jewelry, with a range of both statement and minimalist pieces. Our top sellers include the Eve chevron necklace, the Arianne choker, the Aster necklace, the Kira bracelet, and the Florence statement necklace.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
All our products are made using recycled paper beads. We buy the scraps from reams of paper that would otherwise be thrown away to create something beautiful. Our artisans cut the paper into small strips, roll them tightly into beads, and then paint them by hand before coating them in a water-based varnish that makes them durable as well as beautiful. After that, the beads are fashioned into jewelry using locally sourced materials.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Tuli?
I design the pieces to ensure that they are relevant to the international fashion market, and then our team of artisans in Kampala create each piece by hand.
What is the customer base – the demographics?
Our main customers are women aged 18-34 who are interested in fashion and interested in global issues. Our customers tend to shop at stores like Anthropologie and Free People in addition to shopping at Tuli.
What topics most interest you?
I’m most interested in global development and economics. Every decision we make at Tuli is focused on impact, so I spend a lot of time reading about how economies grow to make sure we are making decisions that are as wise as possible.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
Knowing that your work is making a big difference in people’s lives is enormously fulfilling. Although Tuli is still a young, small company and I spend a lot of time thinking about how we could do more, at the end of the day, I know that Tuli has changed lives. It’s hard to find a job more fulfilling than that!
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
When I was coming up with metrics for impact for Tuli, I relied heavily on Muhammad Yunus’ Creating a World Without Poverty, which includes an extensive discussion on how to measure impact and determine whether a person is truly out of poverty. I also recommend The Social Entrepreneur’s Playbook from Ian C. MacMillan and James Thomson.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, you?
I love collaborating! Tuli was entirely bootstrapped, and especially at the beginning, connections were huge for us. I love connecting with people and organizations at all stages. People can reach me at megan@tulistore.com or through my personal Instagram account, @megankitt.
What seems like the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
The biggest struggle for me is knowing just how vast the problem of poverty is and not feeling discouraged. I’m proud of what Tuli’s done so far, and I’m loving watching its impact grow, but sometimes, as I look to the future and contemplate the gravity of global poverty, it’s easy to feel insignificant. I have to work hard to balance dreaming big for Tuli’s future impact with remembering that, to the two dozen women and their families we currently provide living wages to, Tuli has changed everything. It’s a difficult act of staying encouraged without becoming complacent.
What seems like the greatest emotional struggle in personal life for you?
It’s related to my above answer, because I think most business owners would agree that business becomes a huge part of your personal life, but I struggle with feeling like I’m doing enough, and because of that, it’s sometimes hard for me to pull myself away from work, which isn’t healthy. It’s important for anyone doing work in entrepreneurship or poverty eradication to sometimes cut ourselves some slack; the world won’t change overnight, and it’s helpful to focus on what you have accomplished – and to allow yourself time to step back and spend time with the important people in your life.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
I really appreciate this opportunity to share my thoughts and work with Tuli! Thanks so much for your time.
Thank you for your time, Megan.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/05/12
The majority of people support globalization, but the term itself can have different meanings.
Globalization is important to positively contribute to our growing global economy
At the grassroots level, it can conjure up images of people gathered together in communities and cooperatives to form networks, while it can also be used to describe the networking and structural integration of large-scale companies across the globe. In either case, people seem to be supportive of globalization, which is becoming more widespread.
In response, it is important to positively contribute to our growing global economy. One way to achieve this is through ethical and sustainable fashion. Ethical and sustainable fashion is a new and growing market that requires further investigation through sharing knowledge and developing common values.
From the bottom up, this means exploring the inter-linkages of small, moderate and large scale organizations. Although infrastructure is often embedded in these businesses, there is potential for change. Personally, I enjoy hearing about the stories of individual makers, artisans, and ethical and sustainable fashion company owners who have created successful businesses.
To me, it is these people who are are forming the basis for a movement and a new form of consumption; consumption that is consistent with the sustainability goals of the United Nations. It’s an exciting time!
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/04/17
MARA is a social enterprise established in 2013 in Moldova. They focus on slow upcycled fashion and the ethical production, life essentials and the well being of those who make them.
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I come from Poland where i graduated from a 3-D Product design faculty on Academy of Fine Arts in Cracow, my favourite city in the whole wide world. I also studied Fine product design on Coventry University, both my degrees are quite far from fashion design but I must say I’d never consider myself a fashion designer I like to think that I have more interdisciplinary/ holistic approach.
My idea is to bring design thinking into already existing project, understand the problems it faces and help to find out suitable solutions. Together we try to design desirable and profitable products to help the project to grow and sustain itself.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
My interest in ethical manufacturing came gradually, it was a cross between my education and working experience. I was lucky to get some working experience in a furniture factory in Indonesia. The concept of the manufacturing was revolving around purchasing century old houses, that would become unsuitable for living and making very special up-cycled pieces of furniture out of the wood they were constructed from. I remember being absolutely fascinated with their zero-waste policy. I started reflecting more on how things are made and in what conditions.
After I returned to my home country I was ecstatic to discover that the whole slow fashion movement kicked off. First slow fashion trade shows and makers markets. There was so much energy and optimism I wanted to be part of all this new exciting movement. I started making printed garments I would design and have manufactured by local seamstresses from organic cottons.
In 2015 I joined MARA, in their mission to fight unemployment and migration of women from rural areas. I think that together with the whole team we managed to create a brand that not only gives employment but also promotes the concept of ethical, sustainable and locally made fashion in Moldova. In October 2016 we opened a shop that unites local makers and works as a platform for promoting local designers.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
I strongly believe that promoting the idea of sustainability and ethical manufacturing can influence consumers buying behaviors. Together with the whole MARA team we advocate empowerment via good design. Social business that targets and resolves particular social issue is a model that, in my opinion, has a bright future. We at MARA put a lot of effort into educating our customers about the importance of ethical manufacturing and encourage them to question the origins of not only the final product, but also the materials.
The customers play the most important role in the whole process, as they have the power to push for 100% transparency about the cost of manufacturing and the conditions of the manufacturing. If consumers will have more interest in questioning who made the garments they buy, in what conditions and out of what materials, the companies will have to follow that direction. I am very happy that more and more companies are open about their manufacturing ways and I hope that will sometime become a mainstream trend. Often we get a feedback that we are too focused on commercial part of our project, but I tend to depute that.
In order to become a successful, sustainable enterprise and reliable employer, social business like ours need a desirable product. I see a role of a designer crucial in this process. Improving the quality of the product and visual communication, to help the sustainable brands reach new customers and grow. Only this way the concept of ethical manufacturing can spread and employment rate can grow. We still try to find the right balance between the commercial side of our project and the social one, sometimes it isn’t easy.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
My personal hero is founder of TOM’s shoes Brake Mycoskie. What I find the most impressive is that they grew, into a very recognizable enterprise, re-branched and still managed to sustain the concept intact. I respect that they are very open to outside evaluation and committed to transparency and improving their vision. TOMS is definitely very inspiring story.
What is MARA Knitwear?
MARA is a social enterprise based in Republic of Moldova, country sandwiched between Ukraine and Romania known mostly for its wine cultivating traditions, great people and crazy emigration statistics. We try to tackle the problem of women migrating the country and leaving their children behind with grandparents.
In our workshop, located in Scoreni – a village with around 3000 inhabitants, we create knitted up-cycled woolen garments and accessories. We campaign for ethical manufacturing and 0 waste management in Moldova, we make our knitwear out of leftover yarn that we buy from bigger producers. Our manufacturing means are very limited, that gives us opportunity to advocate for close relationship between our makers and customers.
On the start we were backed up financially by East European Foundation and Swiss Agency for Cooperation in Moldova. We cooperate with village authorities on a number of social projects. Our objective is to enable and dignify women through trainings, creating job opportunities, rising local employment rate and giving women means to stay in the country with their kids. We try to educate our customers about the importance of ethical and fair production.
What are some of its feature products?
We create our knitwear on manual knitting machines. We try to focus on minimal and timeless design with simple, easy to accessories shapes and colors. The garments are created for women by women, so among our products customers will find many knitted dresses, soft comfy sweaters, shawls. We take the concept “know who made your clothes” quite literally, all our items come with the hand signed message from the person who actually crafted it.
We made our garments to last, using the best yarns we can find. In our selection we have sheep wool, merino, organic cottons, mohairs and occasionally limited editions of cashmere. Our collection is very limited due to the fact that we up cycle woolen left overs, but we think it’s an interesting asset of our brand, each piece comes in very small quantity, each is special and each of them has our close attention.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
The internal market in Moldova is very difficult and it shrinks rapidly due to migration of young people that is why we put a lot of our efforts into reaching out to international customers. We are hosted by two shops WORKSPACE COLLECTIVE in Connecticut, USA and SOME WEAR ELSE based in Wroclaw, Poland.
We can not forget to mention a wonderful circle of returning customers based across the globe really and expats that work for international organizations based in Moldova. Big group of our audience is also Moldovan diaspora members, who by buying our products want to support employment growth in their home country.
We still try to reach out to new audience, only by doing so we can improve the employment rate in the village and maintain our business model as a self sustainable, enterprise independent from grants and international aid programs. Sometimes we struggle to approach first time buyers due to the almost complete lack of information about Moldova as a country.
Our customers are usually women who appreciate our products, the social side of the project, and personal attendance that we try to give them. They usually come back for more and we often become friends.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
Apparently after Rana Plaza collapse more workers are interested in joining and forming the unions. All the brands along with local government should support workers right to form unions that will represent their interests, because fashion industry can not afford another disaster like Rana Plaza collapse. Unfortunately, at the end of the day when it comes to fashion we still over consume, and low price is still the most important factor for many customers. This huge demand for cheap clothes combined with very short consumers’ collective memory and lack of interest in workers’ conditions makes it possible for manufacturers to simply get away with creating poor working conditions, not respecting workers’ rights and codes of conduct. I know that many companies that manufacture their garments in Rana Plaza have contributed into paying compensations to the victim’s families and really push the standards up but I also know for a fact that many of them refused or delayed voluntary donation towards this fund.
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights?
MARA’s aim is to empower women and we strongly believe that employment and fair wage is crucial for enabling women within their community but also the important step towards changing the mindset of the community.
Working women gain respect in the community, their self esteem improves and that helps to fight domestic violence. As they become less financially dependent and they can contribute to the family budget they gain the power of decision making and that paves a path to equality at home and in the community.
In Moldova the education is free and compulsory thus child labour is not an issue. The problem lays in very high unemployment rate in the rural areas, what pushes women with no qualifications to migrate outside the country. Because they have very low or no qualifications and no language skills often they end up being exploited in their new jobs abroad. Sadly, often due to low wages and challenging living conditions they make a tough decision to leave their kids behind.
We reflect on how that kind of parental migration affects kids and the whole community in the long run. Kids are still provided for financially but they are left with very little or no supervision. Very often they break out of education system too early and end up being under qualified, low skilled labour like their parents. The cycle of poverty is maintained. There is an obvious correlation between women’s employment rate and children’s well being. When women human rights are maintained, moms can earn a living locally and parent their kids the empowerment of both comes as a side effect.
Child labour and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labour and a few million for child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these other rights violations?
This is very important issue and the one that is difficult to resolve because kids are very often an important economic asset for many families in developing countries and child salaries in many cases are a crucial contribution to family budget. However, we mustn’t forget that work will have long term negative effect on those kids. First of all, it interferes with process of education, secondly kids very often are exposed to toxic substances and unsafe working conditions.
Child labour also slows down the economical development of the whole country, because kids are filling the low skilled positions, so there is no incentive for innovation or technical development for the economy. We all must become more aware of the negative effect of child labour because we are all consumers and everyday we make a decision about what kind of manufacturing models we support.
I think there is a need to educate consumers about the scale of the problem. Information is crucial here, social campaigns, promoting international certificates and symbols can prove helpful in encouraging consumers to question and demand transparency from manufacturers. Also, right and clear labeling of the product is important. Fortunately, more people become conscious about the importance of ethical manufacturing and are aware of what information to look for whilst shopping.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Again, I will stress the importance of consumer education. I believe that conscious consumers that understand their needs and reflect on their buying behaviors have the biggest power to change the whole industry. The manufacturers need to be committed to bigger transparency about their ethics, business model and the way they operate. Generally, more people declare that they are prepared to pay more for the product to ensure that it comes from sustainable source and it is manufactured ethically, but we all need to step back and reflect on the amount and quality of clothes we buy. We should question the insane rate at what we consume fashion, because that simply can not continue. The interested in the real cost of the garments is on the rise, but there is still a lot to do to boost awareness about the dark side of modern fashion industry.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
Mara is my main project I work with fat this point, and I hope I will continue to keep it this way as I really enjoy being able to focus on this.
Any recommended means of contacting MARA Knitwear?
Check our website www.mara.md for more information about the project or follow us on Facebook facebook.com/mara.knitwear and Instagram at maraknitwear.
And, of course visit our online store at www.mara.md because we ship worldwide!
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
Thank you for this conversation, I am happy you guys decided to talk to us today.
Thank you for your time.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/04/16
Fiona Clements a Pakeha, Kai Tahu, Clan Gordon, Craftivist and zero-waste textile practitioner.
She grew up in Waitati, Dunedin and is connected closely with nature and environmentally minded. Her beliefs are reflected in her textile design.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
I identify with the earth as a Kai Tahu, Clan Gordon, Pakeha. I am kaitiakitanga for Papatuanuku. I believe we as humans can make a difference in creating a more holistic space for us all to evolve on this earth. One that doesn’t centre around money, fashion or power.
I identify with no religion other than humanity! Love is the answer!
I grew up in Waitati, just north of Dunedin, New Zealand. I spent my childhood at the beach and the outdoors. I am of mixed culture, neither of which I wholly identify with but parts of such I understand and take head.
My grandmother was a tailoress. She had a shop in Dunedin when my mother was small, I spent many hours in both their sewing rooms as a child, I still use my grandmother’s treasures now.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
I graduated from Otago Polytechnic School of Design with a Bachelor of Design, Fashion in 2011. Before that I worked as a Signwriter.
Fiona Clements. Pakeha, Kai Tahu, Clan Gordon, Craftivist, Zerowaste Textile Practitioner.
I grew up in Waitati, Dunedin. Connected closely with nature and environmentally minded, my beliefs are reflected in my textile design.
Senorita AweSUMO is my response to workplace related harm. Re-examination of my own beliefs and experience took myself and Senorita AweSUMO into a new phase of life, growing a holistic lifestyle, nurturing and nourishing the whole.
I believe that designers can serve their community by providing solutions to problems. Witnessing the amount of waste created in commercial fashion production, I set about creating a solution.
An opportunity to create unique garments and provide a local solution to a problem facing the fashion system globally.
Reducing waste without compromising style. My designs aim to mitigate environmental harm from modern fashion production. Up cycled garments minimise impact to the environment from disposable consumer items.
Utilising a textile resource recovered from landfill, commercial off cuts, and recycling centres, adding value to otherwise discarded materials.
Senorita AweSUMO empowers ethical and conscious consumers with unique environmental fashion.
Encouraging conscious consumption by spreading awareness and giving an environmental choice in clothing.
Global problem, Local solution.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
Whilst studying at Otago Polytech I was disgusted at the amount of fabrics my classmates would throw out as off cuts and toiles they no longer wanted. I started using this out of necessity on a low budget where I couldn’t afford to buy new.
This idea sparked a thought of “If this is how much my one class wastes how much waste is created in the Fashion system globally?” So I explored and found that around 8 – 30% is wasted depending on cut during manufacture!
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
I came into the world of fashion in my late 20’s after experiencing some terrible working conditions of my own in my previous profession. It informed me how to NOT work and how things can be done better. It also gave me a stronger voice in speaking up about what is and isn’t right.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
This is hugely important, we need to show how the system can be better at closing the loop and stop harming the environment and humanity.
What is the importance of fair trade?
Again a large amount of importance as Fair Trade shows value of the commodity and of the humanity that does the work.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
Orsola de Castro – From Somewhere and Fashion Revolution.
What is Senorita AweSUMO?
Senorita AweSUMO is my alter ego, a persona I created to escape work related harm, to help myself grow and to have a creative outlet as solution to the problems I see in the world.
What inspired the title of the organization?
An image I have of a badass Senorita taking a stand, and the cartoon South Park where in one episode Cartman dresses up as a robot to trick Butters about something and he has the acronym A.W.E.S.O.M.O written on the front. I adapted this to my needs: “What you have and are as a being should always be honest to self and earth alike!”
What are some of its feature products?
Zerowaste Goddess Tunics are one of my biggest sellers. I use drape a lot in creating my garments.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
As I am zero waste I utilise a lot of fabrics that I find in op shops, recycling centres and off cuts from local manufacturers, these can be vintage fabrics or remnants. If I do purchase fabrics it is natural fibres only such as Merino, Organic Cotton and Hemp and as locally as possible.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Senorita AweSUMO?
I design and manufacture every product, I hope to outsource and employ local sewers and manufacturers in the future.
In regards to growing and harvesting fabrics I can only go off the information I get from suppliers which I do question a lot before I am happy to purchase.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
Natural fabrics will yes, I hope that when people are purchasing my products that they are buying for a long term reason at least 30 wears. I am happy for them to be returned to me at the end of their useful life.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Senorita AweSUMO is a gender neutral lifestyle brand but at present mostly caters to woman 18+.
What topics most interest you?
Zerowaste, Human and social equality, Environmental leadership, Product stewardship, Kaitiakitanga, Conscious Consumerism.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). How do tragedies shed light on work conditions in garment factories?
It shows us the realities of the industry that need to be brought to the surface, the western world lives in its own bubble and some enlightenment about what others go through so we can stay clothed is important. It is sad that it has come to this though.
Women and children remain the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
Woman standing up for woman, we are the nurturers, the life givers, the protectors. It is one of the most important things beside climate change, equality for all humans is a must. We cannot have a proper system without this as it degrades humans and makes us feel worthless.
Who is a women’s rights and children’s rights activist or campaigner hero for you?
Every woman who works in the garment industry are my heroes! The woman at Standing Rock. Kia Kaha Wahine Toa.
If women had access and implementation of these fundamental human rights, would their livelihood and quality of life, even working life in the garment factories, improve?
Yes, I definitely think so, if the industrial revolution has taught us anything, it is with those small improvements that quality of life also improves.
When women lose, everyone – boys, girls, men, and women – loses. What might bring this basic fact, with ubiquitous positive consequences, into the public discourse in ‘developed’ and ‘developing’ nations?
These are some really heavy questions which I don’t have answers too at this point sorry.
According to Global Affairs Canada (Government of Canada) in the article entitledWomen’s Economic Empowerment: Guidance Note (2016), women comprise 1/3 of formal business owners, 2/5 of the global workforce, and have responsibility for 8/10 of spending for consumers. Economies and societies lose potential “development and growth” without women. Possible national moral authority lost, too. Rights and economies imply each another. Rights for girls and women develops economies and, therefore, societies. Likewise, economic and societal development gives grounds for implementation of girl’s and women’s rights. What educational campaigns and pragmatic initiatives might the fashion industry encourage and support to improve the chances for girls and women?
Fashion Revolution is doing a great job of raising global awareness in this regard. The many initiatives of sharing educational resources and campaigns are right at the forefront of where and what we need to be doing and encouraging. Woman make up 80% of the workforce in the fashion industry and we need to help them first by raising awareness of their plight, then taking actions to respond to those feelings brought up by the awareness. We can do many things individually and in our communities. We can shop consciously, we can ask questions of our retailers and shop assistants. We can take small actions like the Craftivist Collective, or larger ones like Labour Behind the Label, War on Want and Clean Clothes Campaign, there are many more out there. We as consumers are holding a great amount of power in this instance and until we realise that we will not move forward.
What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights, and the fashion industry?
This relationship is huge and neglected, 80% of garment workers are Woman and children. They need their basic needs met. The need to implement is hugely evident to me. We cannot go on the way we are. We are destroying humanity.
How can individuals get the word out about these extreme children’s rights violations?
Speak up, Ask questions. Be curious, Find out, Do something, get involved in Fashion Revolution!
What mass movements or social movements can fight for the implementation of the children’s rights outside of the fashion industry?
Fashion Revolution, Labour behind the label, Clean clothes campaign, child labour free, craftivism collective, war on want. tertiary, primary, intermediate sectors, businesses, designers, consumers, everyone and anyone is capable of making that choice for themselves, but can they?
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations, women and children, in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Be transparent, approachable, honest as a designer. By asking questions and getting involved in local actions, take up one of your own. Creating awareness and sharing ideas, collaborating with other forms of art/designers.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at most levels. Why?
Clothing traditionally is Woman’s work is my first answer. We are born to it I expect.
Also, more men than women appear at the highest ends of the business ladder in fashion. Why?
Power.
What might make men more involved in the fashion world in general?
Awareness and creating a space where men are allowed to be emotional so that they are not the only ones who can hold power. Bringing them to a more equal level with Woman.
What might make men more involved in the ethical and sustainable fashion world in general?
Awareness and responsibility to act consciously.
Will having men in the discussion and on-the-ground improve the implementation of children’s and women’s rights?
Yes, as they are the ones leading the workers, they need to be the ones to achieve the actions. This is a conversation for everyone.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
Creatively full filled, watching other people learn and share together. Creating community.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
Just Atelier Trust, Fashion Revolution, Grad Dip in Sustainable Practice at Otago Polytechnic, Dunedin Designed Inc and the GUILD store here in Dunedin.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Tansy E Hoskins STITCHED UP – An Anti-Capitalist Book of Fashion.
Holly McQuillan, Timo Rissanen – Zerowaste Fashion Design
I love my friend MelanieChild.co.nz work.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, Senorita AweSUMO?
email senorita.awesumo@gmail.com, check out my website senoritaawesumo.com follow me on instagram, facebook and twitter – SenoritaAweSUMO
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
Stepping through my fears.
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in personal life for you?
Having HNPP, suffering from depression and anxiety at times and having no current fixed abode nor financial security. Being without a dog.
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
What you have and are as a being should always be honest to self and earth alike! Senorita AweSUMO 2007.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
We as humanity and consumers hold all of the power to change this industry. We must do it by acting and conversing together to raise awareness. Be Curious, Find Out, Do Something!!!
Thank you for your time, Fiona.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/04/10
Charlotte grew up in England as horse lover on the English countryside. She has always loved fashion and earned a BA (Hons) in fashion Design at Nottingham trent University. She has worked in public relations and fashion then founded SAHEL. Here is her story.
Tell us about your story – education, prior work, and so on?
I grew up in England, loving horses and the countryside. As well as horses, I have always loved fashion and did a BA (Hons) degree in Fashion Design at Nottingham Trent University. I loved the creativity, frivolity and escapism of fashion. I went on to work in PR and then as a Fashion Assistant for Karl Plewka at The Observer, before becoming Fashion Editor at The Sunday Telegraph Magazine. I loved it at first but after 6 years I found the superficiality of fashion ground me down. This co-incided with my becoming a Christian. I ended up leaving my job in search of something more meaningful than simply promoting consumption. I swapped my Manolos for flip flops and moved to Cambodia, where I started a magazine for women at the other end of the fashion industry – in the garment factories around Phnom Penh. ‘Precious Girl Magazine’ was an affirming publication for these women who had low literacy levels. It was fun, helpful and inspiring for workers who were not respected much by local society at the time. I handed the magazine to a Khmer team and left to get married after nearly 3 years in Cambodia.
My husband lived among the Fulani people in a small town in the north of Burkina Faso. These are among the world’s poorest, and when I joined him I thought I could do some sort of poverty relief. I explored endangered traditional crafts and my passion for horses, fashion and poverty relief came together when I met a family of reinsmakers, who had all but lost their livelihood due to horses being replaced by motorbikes. In 2012 I launched www.saheldesign.com, blogging about traditional craft techniques, fashion and home accessories. Due to the increased security threat to foreigners in our region, we had to leave our home in the north of Burkina Faso. We returned to London where I am continuing to develop the SAHEL brand.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
My global journey has given me perspective on all sides of the industry, from the couture houses of Paris to the huts of Cambodian garment workers. I understand the allure of new clothes as well as the ugliness of the industry behind some of them. My faith inspires me to strive for social justice and fairness, and to do what I can to inspire others.
What seems like the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
It seems to me that the current system is not working. The demand for cheap clothes and fast fashion is unsustainable and damaging to people and the environment. We need radical change in the way we shop. We need people who care about these factors, as much as they do about profit, to offer a compelling alternative and lead the way for a better future.
Why is fair trade important?
The 10 principles of fair trade mark out the definition of fair trade, and we need that map as a guide if we are claiming any business as fair. Traders in developed countries should be paying a fair wage to producers in developing countries. Anything less than fair is exploitation.
What seems like the importance of a (relative to the country) living wage?
Understanding the living wage of a country is essential, in order to know what is a fair trade. Paying too little is exploitative and damaging. Paying too much can also skew the local economy and cause problems.
What makes slow fashion better than fast fashion?
Fast fashion is unsustainable and damaging. Slow fashion encourages us to be more considerate in our spending, so we will consume less and take better care of what we have, which is better for the environment. Slowing down to consider the source of the environment and the people who made it will increase our pleasure in the product, if we have chosen wisely.
How can ethical and sustainable fashion contribute to the long-term sustainable future for the atmosphere, the biosphere, and the environment?
We need to provide a wholesome yet captivating alternative to fast fashion. We need to shake off fusty clichés and produce cutting edge brands that are intelligent and glamorous. We need consumers to desire sustainability and longevity from their clothes, and to value the source and story behind them. I believe a global shift towards this attitude would be the demise of the fast fashion industry and the manufacturing that currently uses up massive amounts of water, energy and land.
What is SAHEL?
SAHEL is a luxury craft label, working with traditional horse reins makers in Burkina Faso. It is a social enterprise that exists to help alleviate poverty and preserve endangered skills in West Africa. We make fashion and homes accessories and invest profits back into their community. We are a UK registered Community Interest Company.
What inspired the title of the organization?
The Sahel is the region of Burkina Faso in which the reinsmakers live. It means ‘shore’ in Arabic, pertaining to the shore of the desert.
What are some of its feature products?
We sell bags, belts and tassles that incorporate the reins makers’ hand woven leather straps.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
Goat leather, ox leather, hand-woven cotton mudcloth.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of SAHEL?
All of our natural tan straps are made by the reinsmakers in Burkina Faso. They produce the leather, using their own or locally reared free range goats. It is tanned using the pods of their own trees. For weave coloured leather straps, from UK tanned goat leather.
The bags are assembled in England using sustainably sourced leather that is tanned in the UK.
Buckle belts are finished by a bridlemaker in England.
I (Charlie Davies) design the products.
Water use in production is an issue. What is the importance of reducing excess water use in the production of fashion?
Of course we must respect this precious resource. In the Sahel, it is especially precious as there is typically only rainfall for 4 months of the year. Even though SAHEL is a small producer, to ensure the reinsmakers work for us did not affect the local water supply, we installed an additional water pump in the vicinity. Now there is more water available for the whole community than before we started working with them.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
Leather does not biodegrade easily. Our leather is a bi-product of meat consumption, so using it for making purposeful accessories is a way of dealing with what otherwise would be toxic waste.
What is the customer base – the demographics?
Our customers tend to be UK based, or with links to West Africa. We sell mainly to women over 30 who have an interest in ethical and sustainable fashion, horses or Africa.
What topics most interest you?
Sustainable fashion and development work.
Did someone mentor you?
This year I had a business coach, Annegret Affolderbach.
What seems like the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional and personal development?
Finding a business coach was critical for me. Being connected to a likeminded professional enabled me to see the way forward. All visionaries need support.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). How do tragedies shed light on work conditions in garment factories?
They show that the dangers of unbridled, mindless consumption are real and fatal.
Any women’s rights activist or campaigner hero for you?
Carry Sommers.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
Every time I place an order for straps from the reinsmakers, I know they will be pleased to get it. Each order represents food, medicines and security for these women and their children for a little while longer. I am also satisfied to see that the skill of weaving horse reins is preserved for another generation.
Any other work at this time?
I am proud of the Cambodian garment workers who have fought and won an increase for a minimum wage. I don’t know if Precious Girl Magazine played any part in empowering them to stand up for their rights, but I am glad that I did it.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Magnifeco by Kate Black.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, you?
Please contact me through my website www.saheldesign.com
What seems like the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
To keep going through discouragement and rejection.
What seems like the greatest emotional struggle in personal life for you?
To know what is good but only do what is best.
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
Act justly, love mercy and walk humbly.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/04/09
Founded in 2014 by Heidrun Osk, Dimmblá is an Icelandic clothing brand using classic, Icelandic design. She believes in creating beautiful clothes that reflect grace, power and integrity.
Heiðrún Ósk Sigfúsdóttir, CEO, Dimmblá
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
My name is Heidrun and I live in Iceland, an island in the North Atlantic Ocean. I feel a deep connection to Icelandic nature. One of my favorite things is to spend time with my family surrounded be the Icelandic elements. I feel privileged to live so closely to the raw and pure nature.
I previously worked as a manager for orthopaedic company. I have a master’s degree in international business and marketing. I´m creative and I love new challenges so in 2013 I decided to take the leap with my family’s support to start a company and build a brand. Fashion has always fascinated me, however I had very little experience in the fashion field and that was my biggest challenge. I am very fortunate to have great advisors and to work with experienced fashion designer.
What I value the most is a time with my family and I have three beautiful sons who are one, four and six years old. There is never a dull moment.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I was shocked to discover how wasteful and harming to the environment manufacturing common fabrics and materials can be. I want my company to have a positive impact on the environment and our goal is to reduce waste. We do that by using sustainable fabrics that are produced from crops requiring none to low level of chemicals to grow, use less water and leave less waste during production.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
I use my education in marketing and business to create a marketing strategy for Dimmblá and I use every opportunity to deliver clear facts about the clothing industry and inspire people to make a difference.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
Sustainable and ethical companies have an opportunity to change the status quo and be dedicated to both environmental and ethical practices throughout their production processes. They can also educate others so consumers can start questioning how the clothes we wear everyday are made and how, and what kind of conditions manufacturers provide to their employees.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
I believe everyone who truly wants to make a difference and are betting against fast fashion is a hero because it is a challenge to change something that has been the path for decades.
What is Dimmblá?
Dimmblá is an Icelandic environmental friendly clothing brand that offers luxurious nature-inspired clothing for the confident woman who cares for the planet. Dimmblá is Icelandic for “deep blue.” Iceland has a lot of blue, from its magical waterfalls to gushing hot springs and glacier lagoons. At Dimmblá, the designs reflect the spectacular and unpredictable mystery that is nature.
What are some of its feature products?
Our designs are created with nature in mind, and inspired by Icelandic landscapes, featuring patterns made of photographs by some of Iceland’s top photographers.
The Glacial Collection is a reflection upon the current effects of climate change on our planet. This collection features photographs by accomplished Icelandic photographer Ragnar Axelsson, more widely known as RAX.
Our scarves are made of handwoven banana fabric. Created in only a handful of places in Southeast Asia, banana fabric comes from the banana stem after a harvest and is processed into a pliable fibre. The weavers had their skills past down from generation of family members and we want to help preserve their heritage and culture. Not only does this fabric look and feel gorgeous this process creates a valuable new resource from what was once burned or buried. The fabric and the prints make our scarves distinctive and stand out, so each piece is unique.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Our design is for the independent, confident and luxurious woman, who dares to be little different and enjoys self-expression with the desire to remain young and trendy and a need for clothing that fits her changing body shape.
How does Dimmblá differ from other fashion companies in its manufacturing and selling of products?
We are not only designing beautiful clothing but also creating a lifestyle for women who care about the planet and want to feel good what they wear. We want to redefine eco-friendly, ethical fashion by creating luxurious, nature-inspired styles while encouraging more conscientious shopping practices. Our luxurious, nature-inspired eco-friendly fashion brand offers high quality, long-lasting, seasonless design in eco-friendly textiles that use fewer resources and less water. We use certified sourcing partner and support initiatives that increase environmental protection and sustainable development so you can feel good about what you wear.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
We should care for the people who make our clothing and value their experience and expertise. It is crucial to choose a supplier that offers their staff a good environmental condition in the working place, good salaries, paid monthly holiday, no double or nights shifts, provides yearly bonuses and medical insurance. If companies exclude working with factories that do not incorporate human rights than we are one step ahead in making a change in the garment industry.
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
There should always be equality wherever you are and human rights should always be valued. On October 24th 1975, 90% of Iceland’s women refused to work, cook or look after children. The question was raised by women’s movements why young men were taking home higher wages than women when their job was no less physically strenuous? The effect was incredible! Women from all walks of life, young and old, grannies and schoolgirls participated. The participation was so widespread because women from all the political parties and unions worked together, and made it happen. Iceland’s men were barely coping.
Not surprisingly this day was later referred to by them as “the long Friday”. Changes do not happen in a day but this is a powerful way of reminding society of the role women play in its running, their low pay, and the low value placed on their work inside and outside the home. Companies can have a large effect by refusing to work with manufacturers that exploit their work force and should make a regular observation. If we accept this as a norm than there will be no changes.
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights?
I think it is all about equality and balance. Where there is inequality there is imbalance. Shared responsibilities of women and men in all aspects of life is key to the welfare and wellbeing of ourselves and thus our children.
Child labour and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labour and a few million for child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these other rights violations?
By speaking out. Our voices are always they strongest force to create change.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Choose suppliers carefully and build a good relationship. I prefer to work with small factories and I choose to have transparent process where I show photos from the factory when the clothing is being made so my customers can see the working conditions.
What topics most interest you?
Human impacts on the environment.
Did you have a mentor in this work?
I’m privileged to have a few. I seek those who have the knowledge and the will to share it.
Have you mentored others?
Not really. Knowledge is meant to be shared and I hope to share it to those who seek it.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
It is of great value to have mentors with experience that can advise and give different aspects on the business.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
I don’t think gender is relevant to the question. I believe people should choose their vocation by their interest or their passion whether they are male or female.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
I want to make a difference and I want my customers purchase to make a difference.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
We recently went to the magnificent Nýifoss waterfall and Hagavatn glacial lagoon located at the southern edge of Langjökull glacier to photoshoot Dimmblá’s latest collection. At Hagavatn I signed a contract with Icelandic environmental organizations to donate proceeds from our collection and support Establishment of a National Park in the Central Highland of Iceland. I believe a park in this area is one of our biggest step to protect the nature in Iceland“. Icelandic Hydroelectric Power Ltd wants to construct a 20MW power plant in the area. A power plant at Hagavatn would result in the disappearance of Nýifoss waterfall, located in the river that runs out of the lake, and would involve intervention into the epic land formation processes at Langjökull that can teach us a great deal about this subject in a time of rapid climate changes.
Any recommended means of contacting Dimmblá?
You can contact Dimmblá by e-mail dimmbla@dimmbla.is and follow Dimmblá on social media https://www.facebook.com/Dimmbla/ https://www.instagram.com/dimmbla/
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/04/07
LOZENA is redefining responsible fashion with designs that transcend convention. Family-owned, their Slavic heritage inspires our work and reminds us of what is important – the preservation and celebration of culture, the environment and its people.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
Viktoria: My sister and business partner, Kathrine and I were born and raised in Indiana, USA. Our parents are from the Balkans, Bulgaria and Macedonia, and we grew up speaking those languages, eating traditional foods and learning about what life was like as an immigrant family. Balkan families are very tight-knit – we always admired and enjoyed spending time with our grandparents. Our paternal grandfather was a teacher and revolutionary in Macedonia, our grandmother was a seasoned chef, and our maternal grandmother was a seamstress – a master of leatherwork and embroidery, and folk singer in Bulgaria.
Tell us about your story – education, prior work, and so on?
Viktoria: Creativity runs in the family, and I have chosen to express mine in the form of fashion. My grandfather was a wonderful artist. His sketches were so life-like, his calligraphy was amazing, and he and my father drew their own blueprints and built homes together.
I always thought the clothing, tablecloths and doilies both of my grandmothers made were so stunning. The intricacy fascinated me, and I loved wearing their creations because nobody else had such pieces! My mother and aunt also enjoyed designing and making clothing. They have both always been so refined and elegant that I think their love of style rubbed off on us. My cousin is also an amazing artist – when she came to the US, and I saw her drawings I wanted to be as good as she was!
That being said, I studied Journalism at Indiana University. I dreamed of writing for a fashion publication like Vogue, of course, but I later realized that I very much wanted to continue my creative inclinations and actually design clothes rather than write about them. Everything that goes along with design, like choosing fabric, styling photoshoots and working with producers all over the world was the adventure I wanted to take, so we went for starting LOZENA.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
Viktoria: Ethical and sustainable fashion is an extension of my personal values. I did not want my business to contribute to pollution and the depletion of natural resources, nor did I want to participate in the exploitation of workers.
What seems like the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
Viktoria: These companies are actively working to improve an industry that is outdated, can be ruthless and is often frivolous.
What seems like the importance of fair trade?
Viktoria: Fair trade is important because it puts people above profit, which is the reason most businesses ignore it. It is a partnership between producers, suppliers and buyers that is based on transparency and respect. Adhering to fair trade standards means ensuring safe working conditions, fair and agreed upon pay and no child labor.
What seems like the importance of a (relative to the country) living wage?
Viktoria: A country cannot prosper when citizens are neglected and used. Providing a living wage gives workers incentive to do more and to do better. It provides families with food, shelter and access to health care – basic human rights. It shows appreciation and compassion. It proves every job is valuable.
What makes slow fashion better than fast fashion?
Viktoria: Much thought and effort go into designers’ creations. We work tirelessly to create original looks, to find quality, sustainable textiles, to develop exact patterns and to make high-value products only to have fast fashion brands rip off our designs and turn them into cheap throw-away clothing. Fast fashion encourages consumers to endlessly shop the newest “trends” they reproduce at lightning speed. Much of fast fashion is made from synthetic materials such as nylon, polyester and acrylic, which come from non-renewable resources like petroleum, and the sheer volume of clothing produced per year is staggering. The resources needed to make so much clothing are rapidly depleting and solid waste is soaring. These are the very reasons a fast-fashion brand, regardless of whether or not it uses organic cotton, is inherently unsustainable.
The Pythagoreans, the Neoplatonists, Aristotle, and the Stoics, William Wilberforce, Baron Erskinecreated the ancient thought about animal rights. Jeremy Bentham, the founder of utilitarianism, discussed the suffering of non-human animals. Peter Singer argues for non-human animal rights too. The Nonhuman Rights Project (NhRP) People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), the Humane Society of the United States (HSUS), and others work to support animals and work to enforce their rights. Some fashion manufacture processes violate animals’ rights. What is the importance of animal rights, especially in an ethical and sustainable fashion context?
Viktoria: Treating animals with respect is just like taking care of the environment. Animals are an integral part of the ecosystems and human well-being. I use animal fibers, such as wool, silk and alpaca, in my collections because I believe they are the best materials available to designers as they are renewable and clean, but I seek out producers who do not degrade animals.
Leather is a tricky subject; leather is, in fact, a byproduct of the meat industry, but commercial farming practices are, more often than not, inhumane. Agriculture, along with fashion and oil, is a top polluting industry and cattle is a major threat to the environment. The leather tanning industry is also incredibly toxic and dirty, often dumping waste into waterways, poisoning them.
Mulesing sheep and, or dipping them in pesticides are also horrible practices that must be eradicated.
As for silk, although cocoons are boiled whole, it is one of the strongest, most low-impact (if processed and finished thoughtfully), renewable fibers in the world so I do use it. The worms have been domesticated to a point that they hardly exist in the wild and only live a few days if they emerge from the cocoon.
We are certainly opposed to the use of exotic skins.
What is Lozena?
Kathrine: LOZENA is a family-owned fashion house with a mission to produce high-end, designer womenswear in an ecological and socially responsible manner. We started LOZENA three years ago with our mother because we noticed a lack of sustainable clothing in the upscale, mainstream marketplace. Our ethical philosophy stems from our Bulgarian and Macedonian heritage, and our Slavic roots are reflected in the design aesthetic.
What inspired the title of the organization?
Kathrine: Lozen is the name of the Bulgarian village near Sofia where our mother was born and raised. As we are three women, we opted for the feminine version, LOZENA. It is an homage to the strong women in our family; the traditions, and artisanal craft of the Balkan region.
What are some of its feature products?
Kathrine: Womenswear, including tops, pants, skirts, dresses, and outerwear. We create mini collections that transition from season to season without following the trends demanded from the fashion calendar.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
Viktoria: We use mostly natural fibers. When we use synthetics, it is recycled polyester or upcycled garments and fabric. One of our favorite materials is alpaca wool because alpaca are very earth-friendly animals. They have soft feet that do not dig into the soil, and they do not uproot plants as they eat. Alpaca wool is also known to be four times warmer than sheep’s wool. We also love silk because it is one of the strongest, most low-impact and most beautiful fibers in the world.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Lozena?
Viktoria: I [Viktoria] design each LOZENA garment myself. Thus far, I have used fabric from women’s cooperatives in Cambodia, India and Bolivia and from ethical producers in the Netherlands and Italy. We have also used designer deadstock, which is remnant fabric leftover from other fashion houses. We work closely with our producers in Bulgaria to make each LOZENA piece.
Water use in production is an issue. What is the importance of reducing excess water use in the production of fashion?
Viktoria: Water is life. I cannot emphasise the importance of reducing its use and keeping it clean enough.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
Viktoria: Yes, garments made from natural fibers do biodegrade. Synthetic materials, which we use in the form of deadstock or recycled fibers, do not. However, our intent is to make unique, timeless clothing that people will want to keep for generations. If they do dispose of their garments, we encourage consumers to gift them, to recycle or return them to us, or to donate them to credible organizations that do not flood foreign markets.
What is the customer base – the demographics?
Kathrine: Sustainable fashion is still a niche market in the industry. LOZENA’s customers care about, and are conscious of issues such as climate change, water pollution, sweatshop labor, etc.; they are willing to purchase from companies that are having a positive impact on local communities (despite the price premium); and they are fashion risk-takers and trendsetters who want to showcase their personal style with one-of-a-kind, unique pieces from emerging brands.
What topics most interest you?
Viktoria: The entire garment lifecycle. While I work, I constantly refer to an infographic from The Sustainable Angle that depicts every issue, from health risks to CO2 emissions to solid waste at each step of the lifecycle, and I try to find the cleanest material, to make the greenest garment and the fairest product possible. I am also passionate about cultural craft. I love everything that is handmade, and I want to make sure traditions stay alive.
Did someone mentor you?
Viktoria: Many people have influenced me, but a woman I met in Bulgaria a few years ago stands out. She is an environmental champion and a special soul. Since we met, she has encouraged me to continue working toward my goal, one way or another. She is a community builder, and she has inspired and brought together so many like-minded people to grow and advance the cause.
Have you mentored others?
Kathrine: As an organization that cares deeply about women’s empowerment, we make every effort to serve as mentors and examples for other women and girls in our communities. We welcome inquiries for internships and other mentoring opportunities from individuals interested in this field.
What seems like the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional and personal development?
Kathrine: In fashion, as in other industries, the relative scarcity of women in leadership positions is in part due to the lack of women mentors in these roles – to help others secure top positions, and for career development and as a channel for professional growth. Mentors are especially important to women who are starting their careers, as the presence of women performing in executive and upper management positions inspires, influences decision-making, and increases confidence that corporate advancement is attainable.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations, women and children, in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Viktoria: Consumers speak with their purchases. They have to research what they are buying, but it’s our job to make sure we are not exploiting workers across the supply chain and to make that information available to consumers.
Also, more men than women appear at the highest ends of the business ladder in fashion. Why?
Kathrine: The number of women leading companies in the Fortune 500 is small to begin with – 5% or 25 female CEOs in 2015. None of the apparel companies and conglomerates on the list had women at the helm. Globally, the numbers aren’t much better; only two of LVMH’s fifteen leather & luxury goods brands have women CEOs, and although Kering’s recent efforts to place more women in executive roles has been effective, three of its nine luxury fashion brands are led by women. Often, women in fashion end up starting their own companies, or inheriting family fashion houses (Miuccia Prada).
It’s easy to say that fashion is still an “old boy’s club,” but unfortunately that is the reality. While women are dominating entry-level creative roles and fashion schools’ student bodies, entrenched workplace structures such as lack of flexible work arrangements & parental leave policies, and the likelihood of being a female CEO candidate selected by male-dominated boards of directors contribute to this discrepancy at the top.
Finally, the confidence gap between men and women has perpetuated this phenomenon. A growing body of evidence suggests that success correlates just as closely with confidence as it does with competence, and compared to men, women consistently underestimate their abilities and performance. The confidence gap has real-world consequences for earning potential and upward mobility. Luckily, confidence can be developed and the gap can close. We are looking forward to seeing more women’s leadership on both the business and creative sides to serve as role models for aspiring designers in the years to come.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
Viktoria: I am fulfilled when I meet the people who our business has helped. When I listen to their stories, or watch them work. When I make connections with people who share my values. It is a joy to see that we are all working toward a common goal. It’s also a wonderful feeling when your talents are recognized.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Kathrine:
- Eco Fashion (2010) & Eco Fashion Talk by Sass Brown
- Sustainably Chic by Natalie Kay Smith
- AWEAR World & Conscious Chatter podcast by Kestrel Jenkins
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, you?
Kathrine:
Partnerships & Business Inquiries: Kathrine Nasteva, CEO: kathrine@lozenainternational.com
Media & Stockist Inquiries: Viktoria Nasteva, Chief Creative Officer: viktoria@lozenainternational.com
What seems like the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
Viktoria: It’s a struggle to know how long the road to 100% sustainability is. It’s difficult to understand why businesses are not more concerned about these pressing issues. The lack of variety and availability of moderately priced sustainable materials is also a challenge, and can be frustrating, but this challenge is ultimately what makes our work more rewarding.
Thank you for your time, Viktoria and Kathrine.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/04/06
Jussara Lee is a native Brazilian of Korean heritage who has developed a small –scale business operation in which luxury fashion and sustainable practices work in tandem. Since moving to New York City in 1987 to study at the Fashion Institute of Technology, she has designed collections under her signature label that were embraced by prominent retailers such as Barneys and Bergdorf Goodman.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
My parents are from South Korea and immigrated to Brazil in the mid 60’s. It was my paternal grandmother’s idea. She moved the whole family of six kids and their respective spouse, including my newlywed mom. I was born and raised in Brazil in 1967 and have two sisters who also were born in Brazil. One is a year older than me. Her name is Iara Lee and she is an activist, documentary filmmaker. The other sister is 5 years younger and owns a Brazilian restaurant on the same block as my shop in the West Village. My mom is a polyglot and we inherited her gift for languages. Portuguese is my first language and I speak English from living in NY for 30 years, Spanish just from speaking to people, French from school and Hebrew because I was married to an Israeli. Catholicism is the main religion in Brazil and babies get baptized at birth. I got baptized at age 9. It was an awkward situation to go through that ceremony as a young adult. I then converted to Judaism when I got married, for the sake of keeping the husband’s family happy and to have my daughter be accepted as one of them. Other than that I don’t care much for religion.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
My mother raised us as a single mom and we grew up somewhat poor. However, education was always a priority for my mom and she made sure we attended good schools as we compromised on other expenses. I was hanging out a lot on the beach between age 16 until 19 when my mother offer to pay for my studies abroad. She worried I was going to become a beach bum and thought it was a good idea to support my passion for clothing making. I was attending college for French Language and Literature at that time and moved to NY in 1986. I took a job selling movie and art posters and attended fashion school simultaneously. New York was a different city at that time and a very nurturing one when it came to creativity. I used to experiment with outfits that got me into the best night clubs. My friends always wanted to go there with me because they knew I would always get in with no waiting and with drink comps. Ha ha.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I have been in business for 25 years and the real commitment to not producing waste took precedence over everything about 15 years ago when I downsized my company. I used to wholesale to stores like Barneys and Bergdorf Goodman, had a showroom in Tokyo and do runway shows. All of that came to a halt when I realized the nonsense of making so much clothes, the tremendous resources they employed and the residues of their manufacturing: a trail of pollution.
I started questioning the concept of releasing collections 8 times a year around 2001. And after the attack on September 11th, I really went on a self-searching journey and felt the idea of making clothes for people to buy every season made no sense. My foray into it happened when I was introduced to hand tailoring. I ceased to do volume production as a way to eliminate impulse buying and waste and started to offer custom made and made to order service where each piece is cut individually for a specific person. It was valuable for me to offer clients the knowledge of how their clothes were being made. I feel it is a lot more gratifying to have that kind of relationship to the clothes you wear. The decision to slow down was based on my personal belief that less is better, quality is much more important than quantity. I wanted my professional life to be representative of what I believe.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
I have evolved my beliefs and core values through time and experience. If you go through the motions of building a company with your eyes wide open, you actually come up with a lot of conclusions that for the most part go against what the industry and its media accolades project as being right or wrong. I am always questioning and coming up with my own solutions to problems as I see them arising in front of me.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
It is crucial for more companies to let go of the old model of making a profit no matter what the consequences to the environment are. It is essential that we stop denying the pollution and destruction we create while making clothes for people who don’t actually need them. We must to connect the dots, just like when you do in kids’ activity books. It is that simple. But yet, people avoid the reality and don’t question where things come from and where they go once they are disposed. It is a basic concept that gets completely obscured by our dependence on convenience. Once you start practicing moderation, and other behaviours that take in consideration the environment, I realized the compromise is insignificant when compared to the benefits.
What is Jussara Lee?
Jussara Lee is a small luxury brand that defies the conventional approach to luxury. I believe what is precious is to know your clothes were made with the least negative impact to nature possible, that they were made with respect to the makers, in small batches, and locally, so there is no doubt about all the above. And we can accomplish that without compromising the fit, the aesthetics and the quality.
What inspired the title of the organization?
My job is to come up with solutions to problems I consider important to tackle. Blind consumerism is one, disregard to the environment and fellow humans is another. I always knew I was going to use my company to express and exercise my personal beliefs and therefore I called it my own name.
What is unique about your brand?
We employ menswear master tailors and shirt makers to make the women’s clothes. It is rare to find well made clothes for the women.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products and where are they sourced?
We only use fabrics that biodegrade and keep it simple: cotton, wool, linen, cashmere and silk are our staples. And we are now embarking on a circular economy model where those natural fabrics will come from existing clothes and fabrics. That means by next year I want all the clothes we produce, to be made out of materials that don’t come from virgin natural sources because even organic cotton takes a lot of water to be produced. And once they are done with the clothes, they will be able to bring them back for further recycling.
For the most part we use fabrics from local producers and weavers. I design all the clothes and have them produced in the vicinities of our shop and design studio. It gives us a lot more control to have the makers of our products be a subway ride away so we can always interact with them in person. And the goal is to convert all the fabrication, by the end of next year, to materials that already exist instead of raw materials.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
My clients are affluent, urban people who are engaged with the state of the world. I tried to bring them offerings of clothes and services that they actually need. We are working on getting onto client’s closet and purge items that they don’t wear and create textiles out of them, restyle clothes they love and are not ready to part from and mend the ones that need some tweaking.
What topics most interest you?
Waste, garbage, food production, the environment.
The Gender Inequality Index (GII) relates to the empowerment of women, gender equality, and international women’s rights. The progress for gender equity is positive. Regressive forces exist in explicit and implicit forms. What seem like some of the explicit and implicit forms observed in personal and professional life to you?
To deny the women’s right to abortion and to education are both explicit forms of regression. And to use women’s sexuality as a marketing tool has implications that defy common sense and progress. When I first tried to enter the hand tailoring world I experienced resistance from the master tailors. It was like they didn’t think women deserve that level of craftsmanship, were able to recognize the quality, had fleeting taste and were too indecisive. It felt as if they thought women’s place was in the kitchen and we had no business meddling with tailoring.
Two factors seem to matter in the discussion of gender equality in societies: economies and rights. Many girls and women, especially in developing nations, face disadvantages unknown, or less well-known, to boys and men. Women face discrimination in education, health, the labor market, legal status, political representation, and reproductive rights. When women lose, everyone – boys, girls, men, and women – loses. What might bring this basic fact, with ubiquitous positive consequences, into the public discourse in ‘developed’ and ‘developing’ nations.
It is effective to conduct your own life in a way that others can model after. Financial independence from men allowed me to have a voice without the fear of being punished or isolated. A lot of men use money as a controlling device over women. And women succumb to it perpetuating the vicious cycle.
What mass movements or social movements can fight for the implementation of the children’s rights outside of the fashion industry?
The Convention on The Rights of the Child, The Universal Declaration of Human Rights and The Declaration of the Rights of a Child are some of the large movements that protect children’s rights to shelter, food, health care, normal development, discrimination, among others. Save the Children is an organization that implements these rights through donations. And there are smaller ones such as the Lalela Project, that provides education through the arts, to children at- risk.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations, women and children, in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
We need to stay informed, be inquisitive to dig out the truth and exercise our consumer power and boycott products that are made cheaply through the exploitation of the vulnerable ones. We need to be active, sign petitions, write letters to these companies telling them we are not supporting their product if they don’t stop the abuse and reach out to newspapers, social media, and spread the word.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at most levels. Why?
It is probably because jobs in the manufacturing sector have been associated to a female task and don’t require too much muscle power. And women, specially if they are mothers, will succumb to more abuses than men, because they feel the responsibility of feeding the children at any cost.
Also, more men than women appear at the highest ends of the business ladder in fashion. Why?
Testosterone. Men bully their ways to positions of power. Women are built differently.
What might make men more involved in the fashion world in general?
I don’t see a particular need to make them more involved than they are. Look at the CEO of Zara, an overweight man in his late 60’s, filthy rich and who probably doesn’t even have wherewithal to spend all his fortune. Meanwhile he can’t adjust the workers’ salary so they can live above the poverty line.
What might make men more involved in the ethical and sustainable fashion world in general?
Men are attracted to power and money. If there is a reward for being more conscientious about the environment and human rights abuse, there might be a chance more men will get involved in the solutions.
Will having men in the discussion and on-the-ground improve the implementation of children’s and women’s rights?
I believe inclusion is always good. That way the men can hear first hand, the afflictions these women go through. Hopefully they have sisters and daughters and will heed to their woes and sorrows.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
I see my job as a way of empowering women so they can exercise their influence and help the world become a better place. I must be doing a poor job though because the world seems to get orst by the minute.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
I am a conservationist. I try my very best not to create pollution on my account. But I am far from being perfect. I fly on airplanes, that is my biggest sin. I offer my time to give lectures, participate in panel discussion associated to preservation, recycling, environment protection.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Here are some books and videos I recommend: Sacred Economics- Charles Eisenstein, Omnivore’s Dilemma- Michael Pollen, Story of Bottled Water- Anna Lennard, The True Cost- Andrew Morgan, Overdressed- The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion by Elizabeth Cline, Fashion and Sustainability: Design for Change by Kate Fletcher
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, Jussara Lee?
Good ideas to solve the problem of pollution and waste are the best way to get to us. And we are always open to lend a helping hand.
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
The biggest challenge is to thrive as a business without subscribing to the rules of radical capitalism and its economy of scale. In order to grow and be profitable, most companies shift their production overseas to take advantage of unrealistically low wages, inhumane work conditions, or by plundering nature and giving nothing back but pollution. The fashion industry is shored up by big players in the areas of the press, marketing, textile, manufacturing. As a small business, you get overshadowed by the magnitude of these hefty companies and no one pays attention to you or gives you an opportunity because you are not a player in that game, you are not ‘one of them’. For the most part you are ignored or rejected by the industry. Factories don’t want to take your orders because the quantities aren’t big enough. Textile companies don’t want to produce your fabric because you don’t reach the minimums imposed by them. The press doesn’t care about promoting or publicizing your ideas because you aren’t a potential advertiser. Profit at any cost is such a pervasive concept in the times we live but one that I could never come to terms with.
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in personal life for you?
My personal struggle has been to live in an urban city my whole adulthood. I want to be a farmer.
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
Keep it simple and appreciate everything with joy and humbleness.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
This was quite a mental exercise and reflection. Thank you for asking me all these questions.
Thank you for your time, Jussara.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/04/05
continued from Part one here
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations, women and children, in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Help make others aware this is an ongoing problem, this is not in our past, and if you think you’re not privileged you must think again. Luck of being born in a place where women and children working in poor conditions is acceptable is a privilege. We can vote with our dollars, we can be vocal about injustices, we can ask our representatives and elected officials to fight against these policies politically.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at most levels. Why?
I’m not sure why women are drawn to the industry. I think I understand why women are drawn to fashion in general, but working within the industry… Historically cooking, cleaning and sewing were domestic duties expected to be done by women, and techniques have been taught and passed down to young women through generations. Many have fond memories of bond building through these practices. I don’t know how much of that goes on in our society today, maybe women of the future will not have these skills or want to work in the industry.
Also, more men than women appear at the highest ends of the business ladder in fashion. Why?
That I think that has to do with inherent masogny and the historic nature of men being the work force long before it was acceptable for women to work. This is not unique to fashion but a systemic issue in gender equality at large.
What might make men more involved in the fashion world in general?
It seems to me men are incentivized by money and power. So are women, but in a potentially emasculating (a word which has NO feminine equivalent) position I think that most men selfishly need to benefit excessively to comply. Which doesn’t make sense to me, because the ratio would be in a man’s favor if he happened to be available and looking for female companionship – not to mention the strong connections that are built between designer and client, these are things I think a typical dude would love to take advantage of! I certainly went to college with guys who leveraged the fashion angle! When I was making money altering clothing I had tons of women and girls in and out of the studio (which was my husband’s childhood bedroom, we live in the house he grew up in), lots of prom dresses, bridesmaid dresses and wedding dresses. I think it’s hilarious to imagine how blown his prepubescent mind would be if he knew then how many naked women would be in that room one day!
What might make men more involved in the ethical and sustainable fashion world in general?
I think that knowing we are on the right track to affect great change in the whole world is incentivizing to everyone! The ethical and sustainable fashion world is a space that is challenging, rewarding and fulfilling, peace of mind and soul nurture are side effects of working in a field that supports and protects all life systems.
Will having men in the discussion and on-the-ground improve the implementation of children’s and women’s rights?
Absolutely. The more diverse and inclusive group in on any conversation, the greater the likelihood is of finding a successful and effective solution. Also seeing how valuable the work truely is cannot be ignored once in the discussion and on the ground.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
I really believe that even the tiniest drop in the bucket creates a ripple effect. I am encouraged by playing an active role in ethical and sustainable fashion, I can sleep at night, I believe in what I do, I feel so lucky and fulfilled by fighting with fashion.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
Themis and Thread has recently partnered with a master milliner to upcycle our cutting floor waste.
I’m also wrapping up editing a story about Themis and Thread’s journey for Shatter the Ladder’s next issue.
I’m always politically activated.
There is an evolving fashion item implementing technology that I have been trying to get off the ground, sourcing in The United States has proved problematic. But we are trying hard to develop a top that is protective and responsive for activists being attacked, which we’ve sadly seen a lot of this year
It’s the holiday season and we just partnered with The Navajo Water Project to offer some gifts that give; donating a portion of sales of certain products directly to the not for profit who is providing water to Americans.
Wednesday I am riding to the state capital with a local group of water defenders for a conference and rally at Govenor Cuomo’s office contesting a potential hazard to our local community. Gas Free Seneca is lead litigation not for profit defending Seneca Lake from out of state oil interests attempting to store gas within the abandoned salt caverns below the lake.
We have also fought this with fashion via our Activist Ts which have served as a fundraiser.
Tomorrow I am going to a native fire ceremony in solidarity with Standing Rock and continue to write about the injustices there.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Kate Black and also the book “Women in Clothes.”
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, Themis and Thread?
Tweet me @themisandthread, email jessecreates@icloud.com, or call 607-546-8040
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
Separating myself from my product.
Also, I had a really emotional experience sewing recently for a woman with cancer, I could tell you about that if you’d like.
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in personal life for you?
I struggle with negative people who focus on the worst of everything.
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
The two things my father hammered into my head:
Treat others the way you wish to be treated.
Leave any space you’ve visited just as good or in better condition than it was before you.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
Wow, that was great! I didn’t read through first and was really pleased with the flow of the questions, great conversation, love where we just went – thank you!
My involvement with ethical and sustainable fashion began with a love for fashion and creating. I feel like I’m an accidental advocate. If there were not such rampant injustice in the industry and the world I would still be making clothing. The fact of the matter is our entire world is under siege. I can’t think about making beautiful clothing if the whole shit house is going up in flames. This is about environmental responsibility and basic human rights (one of which is a healthy environment!)
Thank you for your time, Jesse.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/04/05
The Mission of Themis and Thread is to continue dedication to victimless fashion, wearable art, healthy environmental practices and equal human rights. Owner Jesse Junko Beardslee creates fashions from concept to completion in Hector, New York with as many American made fabrics, trims as well as recycled materials. Read more about her below.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
Both of my parents were artists. I don’t know much about my father or his family. My mother raised my younger brother and I in Central New York, a rural lakeside community in The Finger Lakes Region. A hippie and a farmer, my mother taught us to be free thinkers and hard workers. Growing up in a relatively homogeneous, poor, white, agricultural area did not prevent us from experiencing and celebrating diversity and culture. (English speaking, no religion)
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
I went to college for fashion at an art and tech school in the early 2000’s, though I never subscribed to much of the industry and was never interested mass production of garments. I’ve always created, though most of my early work experience was in the service industry. Since 2004 I have freelanced art, custom design, and alterations. In 2013 I launched Themis and Thread, a micro manufacturer of clothing and jewelry created with sustainable materials. I also continue to produce custom gowns for private clients.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
Probably when I actually started to create fashion as a teenager. Although I’ve always been aware of the injustices within the infrastructure of the fashion industry. As a kid I was aware of slave and child labor and dangerous working conditions, but thought it wasn’t something I could do anything about. It makes me really sad to know that it’s kind of a running joke to the average American.
I’ve always been interested in self sufficiency. Figuring out how to do things for myself has been a passion, probably from watching my mother do it all on her own when I was a child. So sustainability in all aspects of life is revealed once you consider the hows and the whys to anything. Fashion is just the same.
When I started making fashion items I started thinking about the processes and components. Being poor made think about sustainability because I couldn’t afford certain materials, and on a quest for self sufficiency researched how things are made. I have always been interested in working with items others consider garbage.
Working with what you’ve got is how I began creating jewelry when I was dead broke. Living on the road also taught me about sustainability, space for tools, opportunity for sales. Themis and Thread combines all of those lessons and puts them to work for our eclectic line made of organic and upcycled materials.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
Pretty classically. I took courses like “Clothing Construction”, “Draping”, “Pattern Drafting”, “Fashion Illustration” and so on.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
The global enormity of the fashion industry allows ethical and sustainable designers an awesome opportunity to make real change and impact. There is a systemic malady deeply ingrained in today’s society that is resulting in ecological devastation. The simple fact that the fashion industry in whole employs some 60 million people means that ethical and sustainable designers and companies have great influence. Just think of the resoration possibilities if this giant industry turned away from unjust, inhumane, dangerous, dirty, practices and instituted ethical and sustainable systems. That’s what we call fighting with fashion.
What is the importance of fair trade?
Fair Trade is a great start, although local sourcing eliminates pollution and underrepresented costs during delivery. Fair Trade is important because the value of a human’s skilled work is important and deserves to be acknowledged. The message we’re sending when we toss out a cheap article of clothing is that human who made it was a throw away person.
What is Themis and Thread?
A micro manufacturer of clothing and jewelry made from 100% American made sustainable materials.
What inspired the title of the organization?
Themis is the name of a goddess representative of many things including justice and seasons’ change. I first discovered the word while nurturing my obsession of my favorite band, The Doors. Jim Morrison’s girlfriend had a boutique in LA in the 1970’s that was named Themis, when I looked it up and found out it meant The Goddess of Justice I knew my business name would include it one day. Other than indicating a component and process the word Thread in the title is to remind us there is at least one common thread which binds us all and that is our humanity.
What are some of its feature products?
Goddess Wrap, Merry Gold Belt Pouch, and Guitar String Bracelets.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
Organic Cotton and Vintage Fabrics.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Themis and Thread?
American farmers in Texas grown, harvest, sort, spin, mill, knit or weave the fibers. Some are dyed with low impact techniques there, some are GOTS dyed and printed in The Carolinas. We have a mostly one-woman operation in a sewing studio in New York where most of the designing, drafting and constructing takes place.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
The organic cotton is made from a seed hair cellulose and does not undergo any chemical treatments, so not only will it biodegrade, but it will do so safely. Our Merry Gold Belt Pouch is made from an in house designed textile whose base is untreated art canvass we steam printed w marigold petals in a process we call Heavy Petal, no heavy metals are used to affix the natural dye, dissimilar from conventional fabric dyes. We also use some other American made non organic cotton denims which will biodegrade. The varied nature and unknown content of available vintage textiles we use makes that difficult to detmine.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Our customers are activists and educated educators, they love life and are awesome! 18-60 college educated, interested in environmental policy, altruism, American made, organic living. Many of them are artists and homesteaders themselves.
What topics most interest you?
Sustainability & Self Sufficiency, Enriching & Healthy Wholistic Living
Did you have a mentor in this work?
Have had many, still do! My Mother, Mother-n-Law, and Grand Leslie, Marie Fitzsimmons and Mary Wittig, beautiful enlightened inspiring women.
Continued in part two here.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/04/04
Luca Jouel is a boutique Australian fine jewellery brand celebrating a sophisticated yet organic beauty. Founded on a passion for creating beautiful heirloom quality jewellery with a modern sensibility, their pieces combine ethically sourced diamonds, gemstones and mixed precious metals together with luxury hand finishes and a love of the details.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
I am essentially of English heritage and am English speaking. My father was born in Northern Ireland though when his father, after having served in the RAF during World War II, moved his family there in order to take up the position of head gardener to the estate of the Duke of Abercorn, the late Lord Hamilton. Some years later in 1953 he accepted a position as director of the Royal Tasmanian Botanical gardens and so the family, consisting of his wife Edith May, my father and his three siblings, moved all the way to Hobart, Australia. My father then went on to join the RAAF, met my mother in Darwin and we travelled around a lot. I was born in Malaysia and have lived in Melbourne, Perth twice, Maryland and Canberra. My mother is a dressmaker and was born in a small country town in Western Australia. When I was 12 she insisted we settle back here in Perth and my father then left the air force and took up a position at the Bureau of Meteorology. My mother’s own mother had been dragged here – her words! – on a ship from England when she was eight and also married an enlisted man and had four children.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
I have enjoyed two vocational passions, gemmology and naturopathy, for which I have studied and worked for years in both occupations. I have always had an interested in health care and the causes of illness, as well as gemstones since I was a small child. After high school I started studying to be a Naturopath over many years whilst I worked in various hospitality and retail type jobs. I then went on to work for a prominent jewellery valuation laboratory here in Perth where I was responsible for gemstone identification and authentication. During this time, I also received my qualifications as a gemmologist, diamond grader, and synthetic, imitation and treated gemstone appraiser.
All in all I consider myself a passionate life-long learner and will no doubt do more in the areas of health research and holistic health care in the future.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
My interest in ethical and sustainable fashion is an extension of this. Toxic chemicals are very often involved in many processes of making jewellery, clothing and accessories, cosmetics and other personal care items. The effects on people and our shared environment are very real. Just one example of this stark reality was presented by EWG President Ken Cook in 2012 when he shared information about how babies are born pre-polluted with as many as 300 industrial chemicals in their bodies…. the majority of which were industrial chemicals and the break down products of pesticides banned more than 30 years ago. Unbelievably disturbing! And they were American babies. What’s happening to the babies of mother and fathers in developing nations that are involved first hand in industrial manufacturing work and intensive agricultural methods?
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
Well I consider myself to be an ethical person. I am a proponent of nature cure and as such the nature has to be in health for that to be relied upon for the health of everyone. I care about people and animals in general; and more specifically I care about the major disparities involving children and women, and I care about environmental pollutants affecting the health of people and animals adversely. I see the multitude of chronic and serious problems and don’t feel I can just turn a blind eye.
In establishing Luca Jouel, I wanted to make sure that I did it the best way I could. I wanted to make sure that the people in my supply chain adhered to policies that did not take advantage of the people in their employ, and that they adhered to processes designed to limit their environmental impact. No matter what we do we will all have an effect; there is no way not to while living our lives and being productive individuals. However I believe it is important to try one’s best to make the best possible choices to try to have the most positive effect. And this is generally not the easiest route; it requires extra time researching, saying no to some opportunities for the greater good and all round being conscious of every decision you make.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
When the fashion industry is considered to be the 2nd largest pollutant on our planet behind oil and is rife with gender and age biased maltreatment, the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies has become paramount. The current situation will only change if there are people who actually care about our shared environment and substantial global social inequities and who are prepared to demonstrate that by taking affirmative action by consciously designing their products and having transparent business practices.
What is the importance of fair trade?
It can be hard for many people to understand the real effects of their purchasing choices in an unregulated market as a consequence of geographical distance, busy lives and general lack of education around the issues involved. Many are not able to resolve the true meaning of what that bargain $5 T-shirt might actually mean in the life of someone who was involved in its creation.
This is where Fair Trade comes in. Fair trade means decent working conditions and stable prices that aim to cover the costs of sustainable/pesticide-limited production for the farmers and people actually making the products – and their families located in 58 countries. This in turn raises their standard of living and supports the further positive development of their communities. Fair Trade empowers and connects people, which is ultimately beneficial for everyone near and far. Fair Trade means that what you buy matters and actually helps others to live better lives.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
This is a hard question, there are so many people doing really great things within the ethical and sustainable fashion world now!
One person I would like to highlight in particular though is a lady I have had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of this past year. Her name is Diana Verde Nieto and she is the co-founder, along with Karen Hanton MBE, of Positive Luxury. Diana started with the idea of trying to create a way to inspire people to buy better and also to influence brands to do better. I am proud to say that Luca Jouel is part of the Positive Luxury community having been awarded the Butterfly Mark which is the sole trust mark that exists in the luxury industry today. We were awarded the Butterfly Mark in recognition of the fact that we take pride in our craftsmanship, service and design whilst caring for our employees and suppliers and our planet’s finite resources. I love the concept underlying the Butterfly Mark and believe it is particularly clever in its practicality because consumers are able to easily recognize brands that care and that are part of the solution to drive positive change globally.
What is Luca Jouel?
Luca Jouel is a boutique Australian fine jewellery company celebrating a sophisticated yet organic beauty. Founded on a passion for creating beautiful heirloom quality jewellery with a modern sensibility, our pieces combine ethically sourced diamonds, gemstones and mixed precious metals together with luxury hand finishes and a love of the details.
What inspired the title of the organization?
I decided on the name Luca Jouel essentially because I have a love of travel and languages. Luca is a truncated version of my surname Lucas, and although it is said to have several European origins, I like to think of it as being derived from one of my most favourite places, Italy! Luca is also said to mean bringer of lightand paired together with the old French word for jewel, I felt it was a perfect fit.
What are some of its feature products?
Our collections feature rings, necklaces, earrings and bracelets set with both finest quality diamonds and gemstones as well as lower quality stones that are both unique and aesthetically pleasing. Beauty is not always about perfection and our pieces aim to celebrate and showcase both the finest of fine but also the natural beauty of gem stone inclusions as is possible. I have an affinity for design that evokes a sense of nostalgia and old world charm, and that is of quality above all else.
What are the main materials used in the products?
In acquiring the elements for our pieces, Luca Jouel is committed to the legitimate and ethical sourcing of materials and maintains a policy of dealing only with companies who demonstrate that same commitment to ethical trading and warrant their own reputable supply chain and general business conduct.
The primary metals we use are gold, platinum, palladium and silver. The principle specialist manufacturers we engage are members of the Responsible Jewellery Council and also follow sourcing procedures that are fully compliant with the LBMA Responsible Gold Guidance and OECD Due Diligence Guidance for the Responsible Supply Chains of Minerals.
We also use diamonds that have been purchased from legitimate sources not involved in funding conflict and in compliance with United Nations resolutions and the World Diamond Council’s System of Warranties. Our coloured gemstone suppliers also warrant that they have been sourced ethically. I have a particular love of spinels, sapphires, tourmalines, tanzanite, tsavorite and malaia garnets, labradorite and rubies.
Considerable thought has gone into our packaging and after much trial and error we decided to opt for handmade sustainable bamboo boxes that are not overly branded so that they can be re-purposed as keep-sake or trinket boxes.
Who designs and manufactures the products of Luca Jouel?
I design each piece of jewellery or the concept behind each piece. Some pieces are handmade for which I primarily work with one jeweler of some 30 years experience, Kian Dastyar, here in Perth. Other pieces are made using CAD/CAM, hand-assembly and hand-finishing by expert crafts people either here in Australia or with a smaller family manufacturer in Hong Kong that also employ skilful diamond and gemstone setters. For these pieces I also work with two CAD designers, one of which is in India and the other in the Ukraine. In Australia all our diamonds and gemstones are set by one master setter. And lastly our chains are custom crafted in Germany and Hong Kong.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
Having come from a predominantly health care/science background it has been a fantastic experience doing something creative. I like creating a collection of pieces along a certain thematic idea and I like then creating the photographic images. I have always been a very visual person and these are the elements I enjoy actively creating.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
I still see some Naturopathy clients. I very much love to help anyone with health issues if I am able to do so.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
I am quite a fan of Margaret Zhang. I love her imagery and think she is a very clever and creative talent. She has also just recently authored her first book which is a volume of photo essays entitled In the Youth of our Fury. I would actually love to collaborate with her.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, Luca Jouel?
I can be contacted either by email at tereena@lucajouel.com or by telephone, +61 422 587 70 and am always interested in expressions of interest.
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
I have also found the whole process of being an entrepreneur quite lonely and isolating at times, though this is improving as I form new relationships with others in business and engage with customers. I am also very grateful for all of the support I have received thus far from everyone at Positive Luxury, especially brand relationship executive, Catherine Mugnier.
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
I have a few that I live by. I believe that life rewards effort. I believe you should try always to be kind if nothing else. And I believe that you should strive to always be true to who you are, and not risk integrity and beliefs for money or stature. The grass is never truly greener elsewhere. Remember to keep your sense of humour, at the end of the day life is always about perspective.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
Thank you for this opportunity to give more thought to my own knowledge and beliefs. These questions have enhanced my awareness yet again and also my resolve to continue to do the best that I can do to help other people and our planet.
Thank you for your time, Tereena.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/04/01
brm is a luxury eco and ethical clothing label, designed and made in the UK.
They are committed to sustainable policies including fair trade/fair wage initiatives, animal rights issues, commitment to eco-friendly fabrics and practices and carbon offsetting.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
I grew up in North East England, near Durham, in an ex-mining village – my immediate family all live in neighbouring villages, and having done my family tree, most of my recent ancestors did too. I guess I was raised Christian (my family have a Methodist background) but we weren’t very serious about it, and we don’t ever go to church now.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
I loved art at school but wanted a more practical career, and was dedicated to pursuing fashion as a career as soon as I realised fashion was an industry that you could work in! I studied Fashion Design (specialising in Womenswear and pattern cutting) at Northumbria University, graduating in 2011 with a First Class degree with Honours. I showed my final collection at Graduate Fashion Week in London that year. I interned at a fast fashion supplier in London during my course, and at independent label Reality Studio (then in Berlin, they’ve sinced moved their HQ to Porto!) after I graduated. I loved living in Berlin – it’s such a young and vibrant city – but there aren’t a lot of permanent fashion jobs in Berlin, just lots of young startup labels.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
Sustainable fashion wasn’t my starting point when I decided to start a label. brm actually began very organically; I was just making pieces for myself, similar to vintage pieces I already owned which were starting to fall apart. I grew Collection One out of those pieces and when I began researching fabrics, I remembered an organic cotton company I’d come across when doing the research for my Final Collection at University, which had the sort of fabrics I wanted. Unfortunately that company no longer existed, but I did find several other UK-based fabric vendors who specialised in organic and fairtrade fabrics and had great collections of fabrics which worked well with my ideas. I also wanted to keep production close to home so that I knew the people who were working on my pieces and could visit the factory whenever I needed to – that was a response to Rana Plaza and the thought that companies can’t be sure of the standards of factories without visiting, and knowing that while the price of manufacture would be much lower outside of the UK, I would rather have that peace of mind. I’m also a great believer in keeping things local where possible, the factory is about 50 miles from my home! When I started to sell those pieces online, I used those attributes to market brm. In doing so, I’ve joined communities of ethically minded people on social media and found myself more and more interested in that area, meaning I’m striving to make ethical choices in as many areas as possible, rather than just chancing upon being ethical.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
My time working in the high street supply chain really informed that that’s not what I wanted to do with my career, especially after working at Reality Studio. At high street level, it’s just creating for consumption, giving the most options for the buyers, having samples made that you know the buyer won’t go for. There’s very little room to be creative, because buyer’s only want to buy what they know will sell. After my time at Reality Studio, where, despite only being an intern, I felt I had a lot of creative input, and where the pattern cutting was challenging and interesting, I knew there was a market for better design and knew that that would inform my future career.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
I think the existence of these companies is essential, though I do think that as ethical pioneers we need to remember that while ethically minded customers might be easy to sell our products to, the majority of consumers are not looking for and don’t care about ethical products necessarily. Our products need to not only compete with non-ethical items in terms of both good design and longevity, but in fact need to be better than the non-ethical equivalents, to win over those consumers who have that little extra money to spend on better quality goods. I don’t think we can get away from the fact that ethical goods are more expensive – even though there’s good reason for that, as it means everyone in the supply chain is being paid fairly – but our expectations have been lowered by the race to the bottom in prices and it’s going to take a lot of work to turn that around.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
I really admire Livia Firth, who I hadn’t really heard of as a public figure until getting involved in the ethical community. She’s working hard within her influential social circle to push ethical fashion and eco living as an alternative. I also have lots of praise for Irish comedian Aisling Bea, who is a young up-and-coming face on British TV and who champions brands such as Reformation in her TV appearances and media interviews.
What is brm?
brm is an eco and ethical womens clothing brand, designed and made in the UK, with a focus on vintage style cuts and details.
What inspired the title of the organization?
It’s my surname with the vowels missing! I always thought my name wasn’t very “fashion-y” but brm sounded quite cool. Unfortunately this means that Google brings up British Racing Motors before our website, though!
What are some of its feature products?
My favourite Collection One piece and a product which stands out for me is the Pleat Sleeve Jacket. It’s a biker style cropped jacket with statement sleeves in rich Navy Blue which photographs beautifully – it’s one of our non-organic pieces, but it is still ethically produced in the UK. Our other key product is the Panel Dress with its gorgeous 40’s style cut. It’s very fitted and flattering, with a flip out hem and contrasting plaid check yoke, but it also has pockets which don’t break the line of the dress. I think that’s important, to make sure these pieces are practical where possible so the consumer can get as much wear out of them as possible.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Professional women, aged around 30-65 – this is my target market as the prices of brm pieces probably prohibit younger women from buying into the brand. The style of brm is chic and timeless, but the cotton fabrics give a casual edge to our pieces. I hope this makes them versatile and easily dressed up or down for day-to-night wear; for the busy modern woman.
What topics most interest you?
In terms of inspiration? Vintage clothing, particularly pre-50s clothing when most people made their own, so essentially everyone could be a designer – there are a lot of interesting ideas and design features to be inspired by. I’m also constantly inspired by structures from nature; lots of projects in my commercial design portfolio have been inspired by patterns, prints, and shapes from nature. Film and TV are also inspirations.
Women and children remain the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
I always say that fast fashion is a feminist issue – I think it’s very hypocritical of women’s rights campaigners in the western world to ignore the rights of women and children in the developing world on issues such as this. I think the promotion of the rights of women and children should be a key cornerstone to any ethical company. I think ethical companies can and should do more promote such causes – we already have a captive audience! Our social media followers are already (you would imagine) interested in ethical issues, eco issues, sustainability, fair wages and fair trade, workers rights, all of that sort of thing. A quick share of a relevant article gets it in front of more eyes. Some companies are doing this right – we have information about our factory on our ‘ethics’ page on our website, but we’re made in the UK, for a fair wage so there’s not a lot of reassurance that’s needed. Sometimes you’ll find an ethical company, like Everlane, who produce in countries with a question mark over them, such as China, but they are very open about precisely which factory the product is made in and give lots of information which is essential for truly ethical companies, I think.
What mass movements or social movements can fight for the implementation of the children’s rights outside of the fashion industry?
Children’s rights are always bound up in women’s rights, so the feminist movement should play a large part in fighting for children’s rights. More so than I see it doing, certainly. Worker’s rights movements, too. In the UK, it was labour and worker’s movements which helped to stop dangerous child labour in our cotton mills, coal mines and other dangerous industries. Those who fight for workers in the developed AND the developing world should fight also for children’s rights worldwide.
You can order brm products from their website, or find them at the following sites:
Ecohabitude: ecohabitude.com/stores/brm/products
Etsy: etsy.com/uk/shop/brmstudio
Folksy: folksy.com/shops/brm
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/03/28
Vanessa Devaki Andrew is an artist, illustrator, clothing & textile designer and producer, community educator and reuse entrepreneur living and working in Milwaukee WI, USA. Milwaukee is also home to her USA-made sustainable reuse clothing brand Madam Chino which started 2003, and strives to remove the vanity and social irresponsibility from fashion through creative reuse.
Tell us about your background
I grew up in Milwaukee County in Wisconsin, USA and for my childhood formative years lived on a farm appreciating nature. My father was a Hare Krishna, and we would go to the Krishna Temple in Chicago, sometimes bringing our cows and parading in the streets during Janmashtami, chanting and drumming with flower garlands. I felt the uniqueness of this experience and it allowed me to appreciate life and culture outside of mainstream American living.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
My family moved to an urban setting and began college not needing to soul search. My grandmother was an artist, and artistry was in our family genes. I was not as good at rendering as my sisters, but ideas and brainstorming was my forte. Craftsmanship came after. Before I started making clothes, I was sort of at the pinnacle of “anti-fashion.” In high school, I figured that high fashion equated vanity, and I wanted to make sure that my friends liked me for who I was and not for what I looked like. I combined many styles as a way to symbolically cross-reference every style simultaneously in hopes to negate any one of them and not be “labeled.” At the time, I didn’t realize that I was using fashion in an attempt to make a point and for self-expression. And in the end, people would call me a “freak” anyway.
At 19, I began tailoring my own garments. I realized that there was a reciprocal determinism between what you feel like and what you look like. Using clothing as a tool of communication can transform the wearer to new states of awareness and consciousness. This happens when the wearer’s confidence and sense of self are increased through this amazing process of expression. I became Madam Chino in 2003. As Madam Chino, I began reconstructing garments, mostly dresses and T-shirts on which I screen print my drawings. I became very amazed with how various parts of clothing items could be cut and reconfigured to fit congruently elsewhere on the body with little to no scrap, which sparked my interest in zero waste design. I use all scraps and reformulated on a piece as surface design or save and recreate in smaller designs, which seemed to invent themselves based on the left over shapes.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I was hesitant to begin a “career” in fashion because I didn’t want to support an industry so full of vanity and social irresponsibility. Besides wanting to make people feel good about themselves through expression, what finally gave me the “go” was realizing that reclaiming old clothing was not only stopping them from becoming landfill, but could circumvent new materials extraction, fabrication, and transportation. This was socially responsible! I use my old clothes, clothes that are handed down or donated to me, thrifted items, or bulk textiles purchased from rag houses.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
As an artist by nature, and an “outsider” to mainstream media culture looking for unique and expressive clothing options not available in “mall stores” I began viewing clothing as “soft sculpture,” “utilitarian art,” “wearable art,” and “accessible art.” I was working as an illustrator in the painting program at the University and stumbled into screen printing, which combined with reuse textiles, became an expressive mode of art.
What is Madam Chino?
Madam Chino is a reuse clothing label. Online it is completely made-to-order from recycled t-shirts as a way to consolidate listing individual, unique found-fabric garments, and to avoid over-production. It is essentially very similar to American Apparel in that it is almost completely knit-wear by size and color, except I use recycled t-shirts; in order to create consistency, the articles are flipped inside out and buyers accept slight variation in color. In person, the Madam Chino line is utilitarian wares and wearables from recycled materials with a much broader range including cloth napkins, dish towels, hot pads, washrags, mittens, hood scarves, laundry bags, tote bags, flag bunting, rugs, dresses with unique skirting, steering wheel covers, and many more all from recycled fabric. These items are offered wholesale to local shops however the purveyor must accept the variation based on the nature of reuse fabrics. This accounting for diversity while offering consistency is a huge logistical battle with merchandising reclaimed goods.
What inspired the title of the organization?
While thrifting one day I bought a shirt with white velveteen iron-on lettering that said “Madam Chino” and I wore it all the time. “Chino” or “khaki” was a fabric I was working a lot in and I loved the idea that maybe I was “Madam Chino.” It inspired me to get into a creative persona to work with fabrics, cutting them apart and recreating them. I adopted the name when I was not able to find anyone on the Internet using this name, however I do wish I would know who the first Madam Chino was.
What are some of its feature products?
For the made-to-order from recycled T-shirts line, there is a broad range of shirts and skirts, mostly for women but some adoptable for men. I am working on creating a men’s line with raglan sleeves where you can switch the colors of the sleeves and collars out. The goal is to be customizable. Offline I am interested in finding all ways to use scrap fabrics, and have been making many quilted items, have spent many hours whittling away at scraps culling the pieces and sorting them. The tiniest pieces I am weaving into rugs! I am also taking custom orders, mostly creating heritage quilts, pillows with memory pockets, tote bags and messenger bags for people from their late as well as living relatives clothing, as well as costumes for dance squads, custom fits, plus offering classes and alterations/repairs in shop.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
Most of the fabrics that I find or are given/donated to me are polyester or cotton blends either knits like t-shirts but also woven fabrics with different patterns on them. I use a lot of Snuggies, which are bountiful in thrift stores as winter mitten liners, and quilt batting. I love using 70s double knit polyester for gloves because it is essentially indestructible.
Who designs and manufactures the products of MADAM CHINO?
Madam Chino is made from all recycled textiles, either from donations, thrift stores, or industrial textile sorting facilities. They are completely manufactured in house at Madam Chino in Milwaukee WI USA on used industrial sewing machines.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
To provide a service to others is very meaningful. I find fulfillment from helping others and the planet.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
I am working with a few art organizations in Milwaukee providing in school supplementary art education through project-based learning and after school programs, integrating textile and pattern-making into socio-cultural programming. I have been teaching community education for over 10 years and have worked with dozens of organizations.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
As far as videos I am very much into “Story of Stuff” and “True Cost” Movie. I love how “Reformation” has popularized conscious consumerism, but there are many amazing artists and designers doing top notch stuff on etsy and elsewhere, and I applaud anyone hand-making or buying hand-made, even better if it’s from reuse, and organic fabrics.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, MADAM CHINO?
Email me! madamchino@gmail.com
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
Not always feeling validated by society can be very hard. Again, reaching out to others in a similar vein is very important for gathering a sense of community.
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in personal life for you?
I’m not sure. I think when I have trouble, I look at my past experiences and it reminds me that I can get through it, and that helps. It’s like art therapy or something, each project is a metaphor for life.
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
DIY, it’s the best. It empowers people to take control of their own lives, and author their own culture instead of let someone else.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
Thank you so much for your time and efforts in this field.
Thank you for your time, Vanessa.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/03/27
Redemption Market is a boutique featuring a variety of fair trade gifts. They choose only the highest quality products, focusing on sustainability and ethical treatment of the designers and artisans. Every purchase makes a difference and is a step toward recovery and rehabilitation.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
I’m a wife, mom, and founder of Redemption Market, an ethical boutique based in Phoenix. We have three amazing teenage daughters who also help with the business. I love camping, gardening, and spending time outdoors.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on? How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
Redemption Market was founded in 2013. We had just adopted our youngest daughter from Peru, and she was ten at the time. Previously I had been a middle school Spanish teacher, so I quit my job to stay home and teach our new daughter English and get her caught up in school.
I saw an advertisement online from Sak Saum, an organization that was helping women rescued from trafficking. They were looking for ambassadors in the US to carry their products and share their message. So, it all started with selling one small box of purses and jewelry, and has now expanded to over fifteen organizations!
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
My travels in South America as a college student really opened my eyes to the plight of workers worldwide, and I wanted to choose a career path that would somehow better the lives of people.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
If no one stands up for the rights of workers, fast fashion will continue to reign, with lowest prices and cheapest quality being the most important factors in production. Someone needs to share with the public the truth of how items are made and share resources for producing clothing in an ethical manner.
Sometimes it’s a hard road to travel, because profit margins are slimmer and turn-around times are longer, but it’s worth it for the workers to be able to do dignified work and receive fair wages.
What is the importance of fair trade?
I think that the term “fair trade” is something that a lot of people throw around but don’t really understand what it truly means. Someone might praise their coffee as “fair trade” just so they can feel good about the purchase. I think more and more companies are realizing that more and more consumers care about where their product comes from, especially among the younger generation.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
Muhammed Yunis was the first person who introduced me to the idea that poverty is a problem that could actually be eradicated. Until that point, I had assumed that there will always be those who are marginalized, but by listening to him speak, I realized that it really doesn’t have to be that way, that there is hope for a world without poverty.
On a more personal level, Melody Murray, the founder of JOYN India, is a hero to me. I am so inspired by her business and personal life, and especially her theory of “purposeful inefficiency” in which the most lives are changed by having many people participate in the fabrication of a product.
What is Redemption Market?
Redemption Market is a curated boutique where every purchase supports a cause. We are currently in partnership with over a dozen organizations, both locally and internationally. Some of our items are fair trade, while others are “products with a purpose.”
What inspired the title of the organization?
I love the idea of a marketplace of all good things, like a general store of giving back. Redemption is a heavy and beautiful word. It is the idea of taking those dark issues like trafficking, slave labor, and poverty and redeeming them or bringing them into the light.
What are some of its feature products?
There are two major factors for us when we consider a new partnership for our store. The first of these is the mission behind the organization. Is it something we believe in and want to support? Our second consideration is the quality and beauty of the products. We want to sell the best of the best. Our best selling lines are JOYN (India), Pebble Toys (Bangladesh) and The Tote Project (California).
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
Our focus is always on sustainability so we carry items with handwoven fabric, organic cotton, and sustainable wood.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Although we carry products for men and children, we are truly a boutique catering primarily to women. Our customer is educated, interested in craftsmanship and owning something unique and of high quality.
What topics most interest you?
I’m passionate about serving the people on the earth who have been the most neglected and marginalized, who are simply in need of a voice to represent them.
Did you have a mentor in this work?
Yes, I have the benefit of working with some amazing women in downtown Phoenix at the Arizona Women’s Entrepreneur Center. It has been so encouraging to have these remarkable mentors give feedback, encouragement and insight.
Have you mentored others?
I think in life one should always be helping others along on the journey. As a mom and teacher, my life has always been about sharing my little bit of wisdom with those younger than me.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
The beautiful thing about being a social enterprise is that those companies who would traditionally be seen as “competition” instead are your brothers and sisters in the fight for sustainable fashion. We can inspire one another and keep each other on track.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). How do tragedies shed light on work conditions in garment factories?
Because of the great amount of publicity that this event garnered, especially through the documentary The True Cost, many eyes were opened to the realities of workers’ lives in the third world. However, it is unfortunate that events like this are quite common, to the point that the media doesn’t spend much time covering them. It needs to be a record-breaking crisis for the tv channels to take notice. It surprises me that many of our customers are quite unaware that tragedies like this happen.
Who is a women’s rights and children’s rights activist or campaigner hero for you?
I love the work that artists like Bono are engaged in- how it is possible to be a musician or actor and still spend time working for organizations like Red to end AIDS.
Two factors seem to matter in the discussion of gender equality in societies: economies and rights. Many girls and women, especially in developing nations, face disadvantages unknown, or less well-known, to boys and men. Women face discrimination in education, health, the labor market, legal status, political representation, and reproductive rights. When women lose, everyone – boys, girls, men, and women – loses. What might bring this basic fact, with ubiquitous positive consequences, into the public discourse in ‘developed’ and ‘developing’ nations?
I truly believe that awareness is growing among developed nations, perhaps not at the rate we would like, but certainly more than say, ten years ago. A large component of what we do at Redemption Market is educating the public on some of these issues, to get the conversation going and to offer some tangible steps we can take to help.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
I think it would be amazing if everyone’s passion and career were one and the same. Currently, I’m really loving what I do, because it’s hard to tell where my “work” ends and my regular daily living life begin. I love what I do!
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
My family and I are actively involved in the localist movement, social enterprise movement, as well as adoption support and awareness.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Overdressed by Elizabeth Cline was quite inspirational to me. In terms of business, I was also impacted by Let My People Go Surfing by Yvon Chouinard, founder of Patagonia.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, Redemption Market?
We are easy to find using the search terms “Redemption Market” across any platform. Feel free to drop us a line any time through our website redemptionmarket.com.
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
For me the biggest challenge has been to have patience with my growing business. It’s so easy to compare oneself to long established organizations and expect to have the same volume of sales or same amount of followers. Deep down, I understand that slow growth builds a healthy foundation, and so I continually have to remind myself of that truth.
The biggest challenge that I still currently face is to educate the average consumer that the cheap fashion we are accustomed to buying actually comes at a very heavy price in terms of slave labor and the environment. It’s challenging to present ethical choices as both fashionable and affordable.
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
Living a life of purpose is crucial to fulfillment during our short time on this planet. For me that is a life filled with nature, music, stillness, serving others, and loving God.
Thank you so much for taking the time to interview me and to support Redemption Market!
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/03/27
Alyssa Couture is designer /owner of Eco fashion brand Alternative Fashion. Read more about Alyssa Couture and her sustainable journey.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I care about the fashion industry as a whole, and all things fashion in general. It is the the non-ethical and unsustainable part of the fashion industry like the trafficking, slave labor, and unfair trade, among other things that are a cause for concern. It is clearly an epidemic that on a collective stance, needs to be balanced out. My interest of healthy fashion has evolved and progressed over time, quite naturally.
What makes slow fashion better than fast fashion?
There are different ways of valuing clothing, and there are an array of interpretations of what slow fashion vs. fast fashion is about. To some, ready-to-wear designers like Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel would be considered fast fashion. However, Chanel ready-to-wear is clothing made of quality, and therefore can be considered as investment pieces. The lifecycle of that piece of clothing will outlast cheaper products. Most fast fashion is to the commercial chain stores like H&M, Zara, Forever 21, Target, Etc. Most of us can agree, that the value of these products are much less, yet due to many financials budgets, this product is much easier on the wallet, and has more affordability when it comes to a person’s monthly income. The fast fashion trend is most popular, because it hits the poor and middle classes. So, it’s not a matter of convenience, it’s more of a necessity in many cases. Contemporary brands play an important role and become a middleman in terms of creating an important niche for the budget-conscious and will also balance out some of this slow fashion vs. fast fashion extreme. Slow fashion is more expensive, and investment pieces. Fast fashion throw-away clothing does not live more than half a year to a year without becoming damaged and unwearable.
Slow fashion additionally pertains to having a more minimal wardrobe and taking better care of our clothes through mending, and laundering with care. Fast fashion in terms of the relation with the seasonal trend are giving trends a poor reputation. We are now determining trends as part of a fast-paced culture that constantly creates trends to instill more buying power. What is happening is that our world is evolving at a more heightened speed, and our fashion industry is attempting to keep up to speed with the pace of our cultures and lifestyles, and the planet’s own maturity. Trends are valuable in the way they can be holistic cycles that represent the times. When we change our clothing, or evolve our style, we are moving and growing along with the trends.
The Pythagoreans, the Neoplatonists, Aristotle, and the Stoics, William Wilberforce, Baron Erskinecreated the ancient thought about animal rights. Jeremy Bentham, the founder of utilitarianism, discussed the suffering of non-human animals. Peter Singer argues for non-human animal rights too. The Nonhuman Rights Project (NhRP) People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), the Humane Society of the United States (HSUS), and others work to support animals and work to enforce their rights. Some fashion manufacture processes violate animals’ rights. What is the importance of animal rights, especially in an ethical and sustainable fashion context?
It is entirely important to keep animal products at a minimum, and focus on plant-based fibers. Not only is animal-based products predominantly inhumane, it’s sincerely a health hazard with allergies that form from them. Many slow fashion, investment pieces are luxury goods made of furs, skins, and leathers. They require much less maintenance, and overall can outlast many substitutes made of these non-vegan materials. This is where our ‘plant-tech’ fashion needs to become more pronounced. ‘Plant-tech’ is a term that I say to illustrate new and advanced materials made from plants, that can perform equivalently or are substantially more advanced to animal products. There are several new materials that are being slowly introduced, yet we still need to provide and produce more options, and most importantly in the luxury good market. Much high-fashion is the most influential fashion of our life, and all other sectors of fashion are below Haute Couture, and Ready-to-Wear.
Climate change represents one of the biggest medium- to long-term threats to human survival in reasonable forms. The Government of Canada, NASA, the David Suzuki Foundation, The Royal Society,The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, and numerous others discuss this. Ethical and sustainable fashion relates to it. The reductions in hydrocarbon production from sustainable materials seem imperative sustain the further deterioration of the atmosphere, the biosphere, and the environment. What seems like the responsibilities of ethical and sustainable fashion companies in the prevention of climate catastrophe?
It is very common to hear that the Fashion Industry is the 2nd most polluting industry in the world. What people do not hear is that the 1st most polluting industry is the oil industry. The fashion industry is the second most polluting industry because we are using oil to produce and generate the most popular petroleum oil-based, synthetic fibers that dominate. Fast fashion is synthetic fashion. We cannot slow down, our cheap, synthetic fashion production until we discontinue the production, of disease-forming, polluting, and traffick-producing fiber. Petroleum fibers are not only destructive to the earth, they are unhealthy to wear on the body. Synthetic fibers are made from oil. Fossil fuel is an oil derivative from underneath the earth, formed over time that is highly condensed and acidic in nature. Plants are breathable which is another way to create more oxygen and is a way to protect our earth, animal, and human life.
How can ethical and sustainable fashion contribute to the long-term sustainable future for the atmosphere, the biosphere, and the environment?
Ethical and sustainable fashion can help correct the issue of pollution, disease, and create healthier, more life-giving properties. With an eradication of plastic fashion, we can eliminate the vicious cycle of producing a material that is not biodegradable. Plant-based fibers are much more healthier for our earth and our bodies. If we discontinue the mistreatment of animals, and guide our industry into supporting and promoting more advanced ‘plant-tech’ fibers and materials, we build and do not destroy.
The Sustainable Apparel Coalition invented The Higg Index. It assesses some products’ sustainability throughout the products’ lifecycle. The European Outdoor Group and the Outdoor Industry Association developed an index of products’ impacts on the environment throughout their lifecycle, the Eco Index. Large regions with serious attempts to implement standards and quantitative analysis of sustainability of products throughout their lifecycle. What seem like the importance of quality tests, or metrics, such as these and others?
Theses tests, metrics are very much important to keep people aware, and give more statistical data, for those whom need proof, over opinion. My work with Healthy Fashion Campaign, www.healthyfashioncampaign.comis an environmental action, public awareness campaign that is in its very new beginning. It yields its own guidelines, network, community, and database that will support both the conscious consumer, and the fashion industry professional. What matters most to me, is that we learn to share our vision of eco fashion, and not build traps that would keep the fashion industry as a whole at bay. Much of the “tragedy” sectors of the industry is simply playing a role in the collective consciousness, and it is what was passed down to us from generations. It started very rapidly in the 1930s with the invention of synthetic fibers, and it has only made more of a mess than what can actually take in presently. It’s a very heavy issue that has taken its toll with everyone involved. Healthy Fashion Campaign has plans and arrangements, to ensure ‘plant-tech’ becomes much more common, and to support the awareness of plant fibers as a therapeutic, healing modality that will liberate humanity, and the planet earth included.
What is Alternative Fashion?
Alternative Fashion is an eco chic womenswear brand founded, owned, and designed by me. We are stylish, ‘holistic-cycle’ trend driven. We cater to those who are both health-conscious, environmental activists, and up-to-date with current fashion and style.
What inspired the title of the organization?
Alternative Fashion is a company formed by my love for fashion. I have a serious passion for fashion, as cliche as it sounds. It’s my ultimate form of communication, and it speaks to me. Alternative Fashion is based from the word, Alternative, as “different’. We care about trends, yet we evoke the personal style of a person. It is also rooted from the concept of ‘Alternative Health’. Many of the alternative, natural food and herb remedies are relevant to the times, and bringing that holistic and, medicinal perspective of both food and fashion is important.
What are some of its feature products?
We feature women’s clothing, that range, from loungewear, athleisure, to dresses and formal wear. Most of our fabrics are made with organic fiber, if not organic it is a plant-based natural fiber.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
Our fabrics mostly consist of cotton, hemp, and flax. We’re always updating our fabric library, and we have plans of introducing several more versatile, interesting, and therapeutic natural fibers, some of which will be nettle, pineapple leather, ramie, banana, coconut coir, and tree bark to mention a few.
Water use in production is an issue. What is the importance of reducing excess water use in the production of fashion?
There are water-less dye houses that are using DryDye which interests me. I think water is an important element, and creates part of the alchemy of creating a beautiful fiber. When we use vegetable and plant-based dyes, the use of water I feel may be less of an issue. Collecting rainwater, and having water recycling machinery can be a few ways to reduce water excess.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
We are using natural plant-based fibers, that are biodegradable. The dyestuffs that are used on the GOTs certified and non-certified plant-based fibers are not made with 100% vegetable or plant-based dyes. I have created small-batch production of plant-based dyed fabrics for my designs, and it is the goal to be 100% plant-based.
Thank you for your time, Alyssa.
Thank you!
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/03/24
Threads of Peru is a nonprofit organization that connects the world to handmade treasures of Peru, helping to preserve ancient craft techniques and empower indigenous artisans.
What is Threads of Peru?
Threads of Peru is a not-for-profit social enterprise that connects the world to handmade treasures of the Andes, helping to strengthen ancient craft techniques and empower artisans. We work with Andean people, mostly women, to improve the quality and marketability of their weaving in an effort to strengthen cultural traditions, provide a supplementary income to artisans in rural communities, and offer a glimpse of this amazing culture to the rest of the world.
You can read more here.
What inspired the title of the organization?
We were working with textiles, which are made of many threads, therefore we felt that “Threads of Peru” was a catchy name that also alluded to the different aspects of Peruvian culture.
What are some of its feature products?
One of our favourite products is the poncho, and we offer a range of beautifully crafted ponchos to last a lifetime. The poncho has become such an object of pop-culture fascination — thanks in large part to a certain “man with no name” — that sometimes we forget that this garment traces its roots to the high mountains of the Andes. The Spanish word “poncho” likely came from the Quechua word “punchu” or similar words in other languages spoken nearby.
We also offer stunning ruana style wraps (or an open poncho). The CAROLINA ruana and ANGELINA wrapsare a type of alpaca poncho that is open in the front. More traditional in design, the CHASKA women’s alpaca poncho features a timeless, modern design, accented by the ch’aska – star – woven pattern at the edges.
In addition to ponchos, ruanas and wide alpaca scarves we also offer a carefully curated Home Décor line, a little bit hippy and with lots of bohemian flair, our home interior design items are super popular.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
High quality fibre is the foundation of Threads of Peru products, and is at the core of the traditional Quechua lifestyle. Most of our products are made with alpaca or baby alpaca fibre, but many of our small accessory items and bags are made with wool.
Alpaca is a soft, luxury fibre which is finer, softer and more “slippery” in texture than sheep wool or llama fibre. It is naturally hypoallergenic, water-resistant, non-flammable and highly breathable. Alpaca fibre occurs in over 20 natural, undyed shades, ranging from browns, to greys, cream and black, making the alpaca the most colour-diverse fibre-producing animal on earth.
Wool is easier to work with and takes dye much better than does alpaca fibre. Though not as soft as alpaca, wool is extremely durable and warm, and the resulting cloth tends to be heavier than alpaca fibre products.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Threads of Peru?
The production process is one of collaboration between the small Threads of Peru team and the artisans. Many of our products are designed in-house, but some are the pure creative inspiration of the weavers themselves. Threads of Peru is involved in the coordination and preparation of yarn, from spinning to dyeing to plying, right up until the warping process before an item is woven. The weavers then have at least one month to work their magic, weaving those yarns into beautiful, complex designs. Some of these products are finished in the communities themselves, while some are taken to a local tailor to be sewn up into bags or other accessories. The Threads of Peru team are very hands-on throughout the entire process, ensuring the highest quality output.
Some products use fibre that has been sourced from the weaver’s own animals, while others are made with yarn that is sourced from Michell, a responsible Peruvian alpaca yarn manufacturer which has been in operation for over a century, and which sources their raw fibre from small producers all over the country – including communities like those that Threads of Peru works with.
To know more about Threads of Peru or if you’re interested in visiting Peru on a textile tour, visit the Threads of Peru website here.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/03/11
Melanie is originally from Hamilton. She recently graduated from Carroll College in Montana where she advocated for Fair Trade and hosted many events regarding ethical jewelry, chocolate etc. Through her advocacy, her university became one of the first in the area to become a Fair Trade certified campus. She just got back from 3 months in Uganda where she interned for a fair trade organization called Generate for Generations.
You’ve taken a trip to Uganda. In fact, you interned there. What was the original purpose for going to Uganda?
I have travelled to many countries throughout my life but these trips were never longer than 3 weeks. After graduation, I wanted to know what it was like to live in a developing country for a longer period of time. Through my work with the fair trade campaign at my university, I met a woman named Linda who founded Circle of Hands Uganda, an organization which sells various products from Uganda. I told Linda about my desire to live abroad and she connected me with Lillian, the founder of the organization she bought products from. Through a few calls with Lillian, we both felt it was the perfect fit for my passions and skills to go to Uganda and help her organization on the ground.
What was the ethical organization’s name, purpose, and reach?
The organization I interned for in Uganda was called Generate for Generations. From their website, their purpose and reach are as follows: “A social organization in Uganda working to empower 200 single mothers, victims of HIV/AIDS, widows, sexually abused girls, victims of rape/domestic violence/forced marriage, and teen mothers in the community with skills of self-dependency, independence, entrepreneurial skills, and staying in school. We train our artisans in recycled paper-bead jewelry and sustainable handcrafts to provide for their families and generate income for generations to come.”
What were your activities there?
My activities there varied from week to week depending on what was going on with the organization at the time. My responsibilities included working on the blog/website/social media, sales/marketing, networking with similar organizations, daily operations, accounting, quality control, and overseeing production.
Any deep bonding moments while there too?
Definitely! One of my favourite parts of my work there was collecting stories of our producers. The women who make our products are so strong and have been through things I can’t even imagine. You can read their stories on our blog: generateforgeneration.wordpress.com. I’m so grateful I had the opportunity to meet and work with these amazing individuals!
Also, I lived with a Ugandan family during my time there. My favourite memories include learning how to cook traditional meals and sitting around the table at night playing cards. We had a few laughs discussing stereotypes we each had of the other’s culture. The community I lived in was so hospitable and welcomed me with open arms. I even had the chance to be in a traditional wedding.
How did your intern work tie into women’s empowerment and ethical fashion in particular?
My intern work directly tied into women’s empowerment because rural women in Uganda make our products. Most of them are widows, affected by HIV/AIDS, victims of abuse, or teenage mothers. Unemployment is so high in Uganda making it nearly impossible for these women to find a job. Our organization provides a way for them to work from home so they can earn an income while caring for their children. Additionally, in Uganda the stereotype of a male “breadwinner” still exists. These women are breaking stereotypes and empowering other women in their villages to do the same. Any excess profits from our organization fund classes for our women to learn about nutrition, health, alternative income etc.
My intern work tied into ethical fashion because we pay our women fair wages and they operate within safe working conditions. Our customers are ensured that the money paid for each product helps the women supports themselves and their families. This model is in opposition to traditional fashion where the majority of the money that consumers pay does not go to the producers.
What is the best way for people to find and become involved in ethical and sustainable fashion?
My favourite phrase in the ethical consumer movement is “Buy Local, Buy Fair.” The best way for someone to ensure that a product was produced ethically is to look for the Fair Trade logo. If you’re not sure, ask the store’s owner! Your curiosity will encourage them to look into buying more ethical products. A lot of ethical and sustainable fashions can also be found online or at local events so do some research during your spare time about fair trade outlets in your community! When you can’t buy fair, buy local instead. Shop at the farmer’s market, support a local artist, or attend a clothing swap!
If you would like to purchase products from the organization I work with, feel free to contact me at melanie.v@live.ca or go to circleofhandsuganda.com. We sell jewelry, bags, and baskets made from recycled and sustainable materials.
Also, what is a good way for people to empower women and girls as best they can with the resources and opportunities they have on hand?
Another great phrase I’ve learned in this movement is “Vote with your wallet.” Every time you make a purchase you are choosing what kind of world you want to live in: One with modern slavery or one where individuals are empowered. It is so easy to use the resources and opportunities you have on hand to empower women and girls. For example, when you are shopping for house décor or holiday gifts, look for ethical options. Often, fair trade organizations not only purchase products from women but also empower them through health classes, clean water programs, education for their children…the list goes on!
We also encourage the producers we work with to be resourceful and use the opportunities they have! They use recycled materials and are taught to harvest other necessary materials in a way that won’t harm the environment. The benefits to fair trade products are endless!
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/02/28
Falcieri Designs is an independent UK handmade womenswear label created by Claudia Oliver. She specializes in day and evening wear using simple, flattering shapes for women who want the wow factor.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
I was born in Kent in the UK and have lived and worked in London, Buckinghamshire and Lincoln. I’ve now been in Manchester for 2 years.
Tell us about your story – education, prior work, and so on?
I was a self-taught costume designer for 15 years whilst working in day jobs in London.
I never went to university to train for that but went late in life to make the transition from costume to fashion. I began setting up my business in my first summer break at University in 2010 and launched when I graduated in 2012.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I didn’t realise the impact of fast fashion really until I started my own business. Through my studies at university I began to realise that mass production was causing various problems for our environment and impacting business and people’s lives. It’s something you don’t really know about as a customer unless you are really looking for it. The high street is very good at shielding you from the effects of the industry. And if you don’t try looking for information it won’t find you.
What seems like the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
Ethical and sustainable designers are an important part of any country’s culture. Small businesses can’t be competitive against the fashion giants anyway and so it make sense for them to focus on local production and ethical and sustainable practices to give them their selling point and ensure their survival. Big industry will never have what we have.
What seems like the importance of fair trade?
Fairtrade isn’t something I know very much about but exploiting workers and their welfare for profit is just wrong in any industry.
What seems like the importance of a (relative to the country) living wage?
We all have a minimum living standard. Even inter-country it’s an issue. A living wage is different in London than it is in Manchester. Whether it’s in the UK where things are expensive or Bangladesh where by comparison everything is simpler and cheaper. Wages should be relative to a country’s economy but that doesn’t mean taking advantage of the differences by cutting things even lower.
What makes slow fashion better than fast fashion?
From a business point of view slow fashion is what sets us apart from the rest of the high street. But not everyone appreciates this and it’s important to educate people as to why slow fashion is better and less damaging to the world and why a customers choices are important.
What is Falcieri Designs?
Falcieri Designs is a slow fashion womenswear label.
What inspired the title of the organization?
My ancestry is Italian. ‘Falcieri’ is a surname from Venice which is where my family originally comes from, although we are 5th generation British now. I chose it because it’s a rare name and there are none in the UK and I knew I wouldn’t be confused with any other company and would stand out.
What are some of its feature products?
I specialise in drape evening and day wear. My one piece dresses are probably my feature product.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
I prefer sheer knit, jersey and lycra blends because they hang perfectly on the body and work well with my design practices.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Falcieri Designs?
Everything is conceived, pattern drafted, cut, machined and finished by me in my studio in Ardwick in Manchester. My supply chain once I have purchased the fabric is entirely Manchester based right through to sale.
I source all my fabrics from end of roll and dead stock from 3 outlets in Manchester and Leicester. I do not buy wholesale or import. I know that a number of fabrics I buy are manufactured in Leicester and Manchester but I don’t know the origin of all the fabrics because many of them do not come with any labels or source coding. I do not manufacture on a large scale – each dress I make is a unique one off so I have no need for bulk purchase. I usually make large purchase runs of 80 yards of fabric once or twice a year for my own in house designs.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
I use whatever fabrics catch my eye and are available when I visit my suppliers. My contribution to ethical and sustainable fashion in terms of fabric is to recycle unwanted factory stock. In the same way as I make and sell my dresses as a buy it once and wear it forever ethos, I buy and use my fabrics in the same way with minimal waste. I never intend for anything to be thrown away.
What is the customer base – the demographics?
I sell via my Etsy store and from my website. I have a mixed demographic between the UK and the USA. I sell worldwide so my designs aren’t restricted to any one place.
What topics most interest you?
Made in Britain, UK grown industry, British based fashion. I am a champion of UK industry.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
I am at my heart creative. I am not in this industry for the money. I am in it to have a quality of life that means I can enjoy my work. I want to remain small so I can stay in touch with what is at the heart of what I do and work with a clear conscience.
Any other work at this time?
I am also a writer and published author.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
I recommend Fashion Revolution. Lucy Siegle is my inspiration of hope for the future of fashion.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, you?
I am on Twitter and Instagram as @falcieridesigns My website is www.falcieridesigns.co.uk and my email is falcieridesigns.co.uk
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/02/26
Launched in 2013, Ramnation knitwear focuses on ethical production and provenance. Read more about our interview with founder Talia Hussain.
How did you become involved in ethical and sustainable fashion?
Like many people, especially women, I have always been interested in clothes and fashion. I don’t think that’s unusual. Also, I have a background in art and design. So, there’s another interest there. I’ve taken some pattern constructing courses. I have a certification in that.
I had an interest in how those are made and constructed. Tying in with that, I grew up in the countryside with access to lakes, rivers, and holidays in the mountains. At some point, you realize that we can’t keep throwing things away.
You can’t keep using non-renewable resources. That applies to everything. If you read the paper and try to take an interest in the world, occasionally, these scandals pop up. For a lot of people, they register them, then they forget, but I didn’t forget them.
I would learn about children working in factories in Bangladesh. I didn’t forget. It made me think when I was shopping. I would remember those things I read in the paper. I remembered the companies.
People were shopping in the stores. I realized people didn’t know where those clothes came from, those products. As I became more knowledgeable about making clothes for myself. I became more aware about different fabrics, different properties they have, and also where they come from – whether they are animal protein fibres, botanical plant fibres, or synthetic fibres.
Then thinking about the supply chain for them, and thinking about the stories and what I was learning about the source of the materials, it kept adding up to, for me, a picture of an industry that was deeply in need of change and inflicting a lot of incredible damage to the environment, but out of view to most people.
Most people can’t see it. They don’t think about it. The story, the true story behind how those clothes end up in the mall or the high street is hidden behind glossy advertising, models, and beautiful photography and branding.
I became aware of the truth behind how these things got made was quite ugly. Eventually, I felt compelled to try and act on that knowledge.
In conversation with others, does this reflect their awakening to the reality of certain aspects of the fashion and garment industries?
Different people come to it in different ways. When I am speaking to other people with similar ideas, they come to it in different ways. Some are interested in the labor issues. They want to resolve some of the labor issues that they see in different parts of the word.
Other people see it as a way to empower women in poor countries through cooperatives for them to make a living. Other people get interested in the environmental aspects of the dyeing or the tanning of leather, and the chemical usage.
Other people get interested in recycling and how to reuse fibres. For some reason, at the moment, there seems to be a big boost in people who are starting brands that make swimwear out of recycled ocean waste. There’s a big trend for that at the moment. For them, it is a love of being in the water and so on.
Different people come to it from different ways. I think still other people come to it from veganism and vegetarianism. They start there. They realize that those same issues affect their clothes as well as their food.
I think there’s different routes into it. For me, it was a route of reading, seeing, and tying the two things together by thinking about the loss of and devastation of the natural environment.
Much of the damage to the environment – if you take the trillions of bits of microplastics in the oceans alone, it is devastating. At the same time, it seems institutional to me. In the sense that, people are looking for the profit on the managerial and business side and customers/consumers are looking for cheap products.
As you have noted on the website about externalities, which implies a lot of things, some of those would include the reduction in a living wage or the violation of rights – no oversight in terms of working conditions, and the fact that mostly women and children are involved in that. So, their rights are mostly being violated.
These sorts of things are more implied because of the institution of looking for profit on the business side – make money – and the consumer side – find cheap products – rather than something conscious.
I totally agree. I would consider it something inherent in capitalism. The way neo-classical capitalist economists think about these things is that you’ve got supply and demand. As long as people are demanding, suppliers will come into the market to meet that demand. Then you would further say that sometimes the market fails, like with climate change because it is a massive externality with carbon dioxide in the atmosphere.
So, you can correct for that by imposing a tax and artificially correcting the price, so supposedly that’s all you need to do to fix the externalities, but the underlying idea is that supply should be maximized to meet demand as much as possible through the market. However, it totally ignores that you’ve got all of these problems, which snowball onto each other.
If you look at an example in Bangladesh, where there’s a lot of poverty and low-wage workers vying for work in factories, it becomes a systemic and circular thing because those clothing factories are polluting the natural environment. The leather factories are dumping chrome and effluents into rivers and destroying the fisheries and the subsistence livelihoods of the people living there. So, they have to work in the factories.
You have this downward spiral of destroying the natural world and forcing people into seeking new kinds of livelihoods. To me, it seems a structural problem that capitalism isn’t able to address in the way it is conceived right now. Obviously, it is an environmental and human rights problem for those people as well. You’ve got the two sides to it.
Ramnation itself, for those that don’t know, what is it? What is its feature product?
Ramnation is a concept label. I conceived and created it as an experiment as what happens when you try to make a fashion product that doesn’t have or tries to reduce at every opportunity the harmful impacts of your consumption, which you see all the way up and down the supply chain.
I started by thinking what material would you use if you wanted to create something that was going to be fashionable, long-lasting, and biodegradable. Wool is a fantastic answer to the question. It’s a great fibre. It’s warm. Living in the UK, it’s a local product and traditional industry. Wool was a good choice for using as a base material.
When I started using wool, it is subject a lot of the problems seen in other agricultural fields such as monoculture, factory farming, and so on, are present in the wool industry as well. I thought, “How do you find wool that isn’t subject to those kinds of problems?” I was able to find a mill in the UK that sources fleeces from local flock owners, who specialize in the rare and traditional breeds of sheep.
Many of them are organic producers as well. That was a first step in finding a good material, then it was moving onto what type of garment can be made with this material. Then it was finding a factory in the UK that would help me find some samples and garments to produce.
Also, how do you get buttons, labels, and packaging to finish out this product, and try to pay attention to not using materials that either are going to be long-term persistent waste in the environment. Apparently, you can’t get zippers that aren’t polyester.
(Laugh)
I don’t have zippers on my garments. I might have to change that. It’s interesting. There’s a huge demand for non-polyester zippers, but they won’t lie flat without the polyester in them. So, you won’t get jeans without polyester zippers. That’s one of the many, many things I learned when learning how to make a product. That’s what I’ve been doing – researching and trying to follow through the concept as much as I could.
Obviously, the mill that I’ve been working with has been organically dyeing everything. They aren’t dumping effluents. Everything is treated to the best standards that they can get. I found a button manufacturer that developed a collection of buttons that were developing a collection of physical techniques without chemical finishes, it’s sanding finishes without chemicals.
I couldn’t find labels without polyester in them. Many organic cotton labels are organic cotton thread woven onto a polyester base. So, I ended up finding organic ink and having labels silk-screened onto organic silk. I didn’t want to let myself down at that last step. It has been interesting to follow the whole concept through to the final details.
In the end, the result is a small collection of jackets and accessories that use all organic fibres. I do use organic pocketing and linings in some of the garments. Most of the main material comes from main breed sheep, which are local in the UK. Everything else is done locally in the UK. The mill is here. The factory for the garments is here. It is a lovely factory run by a father and daughter. They have mandatory factory holiday 3 times per year when school comes out for when families can be with children – at the obvious times of the year, e.g. summer holidays and Christmas. It has been an interesting process of learning.
Concept labels, by their nature, are experimental. Experiments come with trial and error. It can come with great successes and great failures at the same time. In the midst of developing Ramnation, what have been obvious mistakes and great successes in the development of the business?
Something, less of a mistake and more of a misjudgment, if you get caught up in your own head, if you’re interested in something, I thought that the market was further ahead than it was and that there would be more demand for this kind of organic product with story. I think with food and drink, there is that demand. If you look at what’s happened in organic food and whole foods, that’s taken off.
It’s been a long time coming, but it’s just massive. Then if you look at the rise in the past 10 years of craft beers, that’s exploded. People are interested in those products. Here in the UK, the big thing is artisan gin and distilling. It has become absolutely massive. It seems like every time you go somewhere, then you meet some guy doing an artisan gin distillery.
(Laugh)
Seriously! I have met so many people. Some guys did vodka. There’s tons of these things happening and they’re taking off. People are interested in these little quirky labels and little quirky distilleries doing these small batches of experimental things in food and drink. The market has been developing for longer.
I misjudged the appetite for the similar thing in the garment industry. As I’ve talked around to other people who are doing similar types of things, they have the same sorts of problems. That concept of ingredients and sourcing – people haven’t quite made the connection to clothes and other consumer goods.
I would say that was my biggest mistake or misjudgment. I am aware that awareness is growing. I guess that’s where, maybe, some of my successes have been – by being able to be on the ground floor of this thing. I have met interesting people – not simply similar things, but working in related areas such as accessories, retail, etc. I even met the Prince of Wales (Prince Charles) who has been promoting the use of wool. That was a high point.
It has been a mix of success and learning. One of the things that I am definitely working on now is some project on “how do you start getting people to start thinking about these issues and other kinds of home wear type goods?” Because they come from the same place, the natural world. That’s something that I am working on with other people now.
We have all of these products. They are amazing, interesting, beautiful, and have great stories. But how do we come together and take this idea into mainstream consumer culture and get them to think about it the way they’ve been thinking about food and drink?
If you take those, and reflect on newer businesses, one just starting. Any recommendations for them?
I think the biggest thing that I would say is to know what your story is, what your product is about and its story, and be prepared to be telling that story at every conceivable opportunity. Every channel that you possibly can because that’s ultimately what people connect with, especially in fashion. There’s so much product out there. Do they want this t-shirt or that t-shirt? There’s so much out there.
If you want to stand out, you want to have something that people can really connect to in a meaningful way. You need to be able to express that over and over, and over, again through as many channels as you possibly can. You need to keep telling the story of what your product is and how it came to me, and make sure that you’re clear on that story.
Any recommended ways for people to become involved with Ramnation?
I must confess. I am not as wonderful as I would like to be about my story. I am on Twitter. I tweet from time-to-time. We have the website, where the products are available. We do some shows such as New York Fashion Show. We have been to Germany as well. I look forward to doing in the future, but no plans at the moment.
My big plan is hopefully to be working with other brands on a retail project, so we can be taking this idea of clothing and furnishing being part of an open conversation with consumers – about how they come from the same places as food and drink, and are part of the same ethical and environmental concerns.
Hopefully, I will have some exciting news in the next year or so
Any thoughts or feelings in conclusion about what we’ve discussed today?
I am always excited to talk to people about what I’ve been doing. I am excited that there’s more and more people realizing that there’s a problem. People have been making films about it. We have True Cost a couple of years ago. Recently, Alex James made a film as well. So, I am encouraged more and more people are beginning to take notice and understand what the issues are and to begin pushing for change.
Thank you for your time, Talia.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/02/20
Lupe is a company founded by ethical entrepreneurs Tansy Baigent & Dolly James. They personally source each unique, pre-loved diamond and precious gemstone piece. This is an innovative, forward-thinking business that is driven by a passion to reduce the environmental and humanitarian impact of buying luxury.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
My father was from New Zealand, my mother from England, and it was in the latter that I grew up. I spent my early years between West Sussex and Hampshire before moving to Bath. My father was an author specializing in ancient mysteries and mysticism, and filled his time (and our minds) with intrigue and exploration. He encouraged us to follow our own spiritual paths, to question everything, to truly experience life, and to believe we could make a difference.
Tell us about your story – education, prior work, and so on?
I had a rather unconventional childhood; attending many different schools including public, state and alternative (founded by philosopher Krishnamurti). After multiple school changes as a child, I attending an alternative school founded by philosopher Krishnamurti. I boarded here for three years between the ages of 13 and 16, and it was here that I learnt the value of cooperation, consideration and community. I learnt the value of mindfulness, of stillness and of alternative perspectives to the established view of the World. It was a greatly intuitive and informative part of my life.
As a young girl I had always wanted to ‘save’ the World (one of those!), and would write letters every year to Greenpeace asking how I could help. As I grew my motivations never changed despite often being told that I was an idealist, and that if I truly wanted to make a difference I must follow a long course of education. So I did.
I returned to state education at 16, attending a college in Bath before travelling for a year around the World to see new place and culture, after which I moved to Oxford to study Law with International Relations for my Undergraduate study. After these studies I volunteered for five months with a community and environmental charity before travelling once again to Africa and Eastern Europe. Upon my return I went back to University, in Canterbury, to study a Masters; gaining Distinction in International Environmental Law.
With my education complete I took a job selling jewellery, alongside volunteering as a content writer for a website, while I searched for an environmental job. The latter I eventually found, becoming Manager for an environmental charity. After a period I moved on to work as a Regulatory Analyst for a sustainability consultancy and began a business in my free time selling antique jewellery due to my enduring interest and the sustainable aspect of second hand pieces.
However, after a move to London and a thorough insight into the public, private and not-for-profit sectors, my resolute belief that I could ‘save’ the World weakened. I used to say that I had been educated out of a belief in change. Unable to see a path for myself I decided to take a break from my environmental pursuits until I could develop a plan that I believed could work. Five years later I am writing a book on the environmental issues we face, have become a holistic healer, and have established a growing business selling sustainable luxury jewellery.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
Fashion has always surrounded me. My mother and both my sisters have all been involved in this trade. My mother designs and makes beautiful watches and bracelets from old pieces of jewellery and material, and was an interior-design consultant. My eldest sister worked as a Fashion Stylist and featured in Vogue, Condé Naste Traveller and Sky Magazine. My elder sister is a seamstress; designing gorgeous waistcoats, coats and gypsy skirts. For me, my fashion streak came out in jewellery.
I had always loved the glamour and sparkle of diamonds and fine jewellery pieces, but my heart has always been focused on sustainability and being ethical. So when it was my chance to step in to the world of fashion I knew that it would have to be with a sustainable and ethical business. For many companies it is a hard compromise, how can you produce and encourage consumption whilst still being sustainable? In my mind the only way was to focus on re-use and recycling and thus I found myself drawn to the beauty and glamour of antique and preloved fine jewellery.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
Fashion designers and companies create the image and establish the precedent; if they are not ethical or showing the value of sustainability than buyers have no impetus to be so either. Thus ethical and sustainable fashion designers have an important role in encouraging a changing perception of fashion through ethical storytelling, and by offering a suitable and beautiful choice that is both fashionable and stylish, and ideally where the products actively contribute to a better World.
How can ethical and sustainable fashion contribute to the long-term sustainable future for the atmosphere, the biosphere, and the environment?
The fashion industry is one of the most polluting and unethical industries on Earth and continues to be heralded as one of the most unsustainable due to its’ heavy reliance on new & fast production, long distance transportation and excessive waste. Thus, fashionable products that are sustainable (especially those which are renewable, recycled or second hand), and ethical, can contribute to the long-term sustainable future of the environment and atmosphere by offering consumers a choice away from harmful and carbon emitting production.
What is Lupe?
Lupe (pronounced ‘loop’) is a sustainable jewellery brand founded by Tansy Baigent and Dolly James, sourcing preloved and antique diamond and precious gemstone pieces. This is an innovative, forward-thinking business with a truly ethical ethos. From donating a percentage of all profits to charity, incorporating recycled materials into our packaging, limiting all our waste, and ultimately ensuring long-term environmental sustainability through the responsible resale of beautiful luxury jewellery.
What inspired the title of the organization?
The name LUPE was inspired by many aspects of our business. Foremost was the play on the word ‘loop’, as this relates to the circular nature of the business – the loop of reuse/recycling. We also have rotating stock, which further entrenches the meaning of loop to our business. A secondary aspect is the connection to the attributes of many of our products i.e. a ring. And finally our name was inspired by a jewelers small magnifying glass called a loupe (pronounced ‘loop’), to help one see things clearly.
What are some of its feature products?
We have a beautiful collection of antique and vintage gemstone engagement rings, earrings and brooches, as well as beautiful gold and gemstone set pendants. Our products are all antique, vintage and pre-loved which gives us a constantly changing selection of pieces. However we are especially known for our collection of glass lockets and gypsy rings.
What is the customer base – the demographics?
Our customer base are predominantly men in their early to mid-thirties seeking sustainable jewellery gifts or affordable antique engagement rings. Our secondary demographic is women between the ages of 26 and 60 who are seeking gifts or rings for themselves. Clients are a mix of sustainable and non-sustainable shoppers who appreciate a company where you can speak directly with the owners.
Any means of contacting and getting becoming involved with Lupe?
Absolutely, personally I welcome anyone interested in collaborating; and commercially through Lupe we are always looking to extend our connections, to develop and collaborate. So please always feel free to contact me/us through: tansy@lupeanthology.com. We are also on facebook, instagram and twitter simply type in lupeanthology.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/02/18
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
I am from California, born and raised. I miss the constant source of reasonable weather all the time! I have two moms, two dads, a brother and a sister. My moms are sisters married to a pair of brothers. I was brought up in a very cultural and culturally sensitive environment. Being American was important, but we were constantly encouraged to recognize our histories and where we came from. It was a super nurturing upbringing with all the love that surrounded us.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on? How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
Well, I went to UC Berkeley for undergrad where I studied political economics and minored in global poverty, which led me to wanting to explore social entrepreneurship and global health. So, I matriculated at Duke to get my masters in global health. While I was doing my thesis research in India on women’s health, I came across textile weavers. I started to learn about their lives, their families, and the beautiful fabrics they were weaving. I noticed a discrepancy between what they were earning and the craft, but didn’t think much of at the time.
Once I was back and writing my thesis, the Rana Plaza in Bangladesh collapsed, where 1100 garment workers died, and it hit a nerve for me. How was this possible?! I started talking to my family about it profusely and my fathers told me: stop whining, either you jump in and do something about it or make peace with it. You’ll be miserable otherwise. So, we jumped in and partnered with a large nonprofit and an industry veteran to build MSA Ethos, our version of a holistic garment factory that implements “The Behno Standard” to look after garment workers more intimately.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
Well, you know how it is; it’s impossible to always attribute specific experiences to a skill, but I think the aggregate of my marketing experiences, global health knowledge, and liking for fashion generally definitely aided in crafting what I imagined Behno to be. I think there must be thousands of inspiration points that I cannot even put a finger on that must have impacted me tremendously. Life is fluid!
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
The fact that ethics are often an afterthought has always been bothersome for me; it should be the way business is conducted and done. But in an industry like fashion, where there are literally so many human touchpoints that are neglected makes ethics even more important. We have to start eyeing the backend and looking at our contribution – if it’s positive and great, keep it up and share best practices. If it’s suboptimal, no worries; let’s figure out how we can change our practices. But we have to acknowledge, accept, and act.
What is the importance of fair trade?
I think fair trade is so far removed for so many people because it seems distanced…Almost like a notion of a developing space. But if we look at our lives here – for example, in NYC, we want to ensure we’re being paid well, responsibly, and logically. Fair trade isn’t a concept that should be integrated in certain spaces.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
Julie Gilhart. She’s such a powerful yet approachable force of knowledge and inspiration. She speaks on issues as they are, but always in the most encouraging tone. So, I am grateful to have had so many meaningful conversations with her.
What is Behno?
Behno is a womenswear label designed in NYC, but ethically manufactured in Asia, predominantly India.
What inspired the title of the organization?
Behno means ‘sisters’ in Hindi. In our partner garment factory, MSA Ethos, all the garment workers call female garment workers by their first names followed by the suffix of “behn”, which means sister. The plural form of ‘behn’, or sister, is ‘behno’, or sisters. Garment factories are collectives of people sharing varied experiences in the most singular way; it’s hard to describe.
What are some of its feature products?
We do RTW but are focusing heavily now on our handbags, which are sold exclusively online. Our goal is to make luxurious products attainable, so we don’t have a middleman for our bags.
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
My learning curve was super steep, and there were volatile times when I was on the brink of questioning everything. Why did I jump into an industry that I have absolutely no idea about?! But then there those individuals you’ve met provide that source of encouragement that you need and it keeps you going. The volatility of the industry and the fact that every day is a mystery is sometimes challenging. But the impact the industry could have is monumental, so that’s a driving force.
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in personal life for you?
The people I’ve had the privilege of meeting and befriending. Seeing the most creative, wonderful, intelligent people interacting and finding massive common ground with the most business savvy, clever individuals is such a beautiful thing to witness unfold.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/02/15
‘Simple Animal’ is a young fashion label that specialises in trendy, organic and fair, vegan fashion for animal lovers. Created by Miriam Agat, Simple Animal loves otherness and embraces all things different. They love vegans, the LGBT scene and everyone who’s a little quirky and open-minded.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
I was born in a small town in Germany, Bad Nauheim, near Frankfurt and lived in Friedberg for six years until my family decided to re-locate to Israel. My father is Israeli and his dad lived there, but when the first Gulf War broke out and my mum lost her best friend in a lorry crash, we all went back to Germany. Another picturesque, but very dull area in the Rheinland Palatinate. There was not much space for creative minds. It was all very close-minded and depressing. I also had a hard time, because I was confronted with racism and had to learn to read and write German. At 17, I decided to move to the next bigger town (Mainz), where I took vocal lessons and did a gap year at the Nature and Biodiversity Conservation Union.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
I then began to train as an admin, was kicked out after three months and started working in a call-centre for a mail ordering business, where I stayed for two and a half years, before they went bankrupt. I found a leaflet that advertised adult college and so decided to get my German baccalaureate and found myself studying full time for it for the next three years.
I was now qualified to study and so I applied for a union-funded scholarship, which amazingly fully paid for my degree of British studies and sent me to London to study abroad for a year. I never returned! I was immersed in the world of music in London and fell in love with the cultural melting pot that this city is. Six years later I am still in London. I am not sure how Brexit will affect things, but I can’t be certain that I will spend the next six years in London.
I graduated from uni in 2013 and since have been working in events as a freelancer, which I had already started during my uni time in Germany. After graduating, I decided it was time to create my own business.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I am vegan and wandered about at a vegan fair one day, when it struck me that most of the t-shirts that were sold had oil-based ink on them and were not fairly traded. I thought: this is not right. If we’re vegan, we must surely also think about the consequences for the environment and the people involved in the process of producing the clothing, too. This was the moment Simple Animal was born. On my way back home, I got all excited and drafted the idea of the brand in my head.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
I am not sure my education informed a lot of my fashion work. It was more helpful in terms of organising things and actually believing in what I do and executing it. Drafting an idea in my mind and pulling through with it.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
I believe ethical and sustainable fashion designers are part of the future. It is sad that capitalism rules the world and everything that seems to count is profit.
In times of Donald Trump, it is hard to believe that us sustainable designers will have much of a say, but I believe that we have to be a countermovement to all the horrible stuff that’s out there. If we don’t believe in it, who will? There needs to be an intelligence that stands up for the important things and keeps up hope in times where stupidity seems to rule.
What is the importance of fair trade?
Fair trade should really be the standard, but it is difficult to monitor. Everyone should be paid fairly for their work and it is sad that there are factories out there who have children slave away for the production of chip clothes and that people are slaving away under inhumane conditions for very little money.
Fair-trade is important and it should be advertised and communicated how important it is. People go and buy the cheapest coffee, clothes, etc. without thinking that step ahead. They need to be reminded of the process that stands behind producing their everyday goods. They don’t just appear on the shelves, someone puts a lot of labour in for those goods to be enjoyed/consumed
What is Simple Animal?
Simple Animal is an ethical fashion label that screen prints original designs of happy animals onto ethically sourced and fairly traded t-shirts and totes. The designs feature real life, happy animals from different parts of the world. Apart from the ant design I have personally met and photographed all of those animals and some of them were my much loved pets.
What inspired the title of the organization?
Now, the title Simple Animal was actually inspired by a Foo Fighters song. There’s a line in a song that goes: ‘Such a simple animal, sterilised with alcohol, I could hardly feel me anymore’ (Come Alive).
I don’t actually drink, but I liked the line and I think it boils down to the following: we are all simple animals in a way. We are all more or less the same and in extreme situations we will all just follow our instincts.
Non-human animals and human animals are not that different at all and I wish people would see that, when they tuck into their chicken, or their ham sandwiches. It pains me a lot that animals have to suffer for the pleasure of peoples’ taste buds or for stupid pom poms on hats that are made of real fur.
I get so upset in the winter, when I walk around and see how many people just don’t care at all. They don’t waste a single thought on what they’re wearing.
What are some of its feature products?
The most popular products at the moment are indeed the ants who come in a wraparound design and the cat frontin’ design. I transformed the image of one ant into a line of ants that crawls up the t-shirt and then walks down the back. People are either freaked out, or in love! It’s great to see their reactions. The cat frontin’ is a little feline I met in my granny’s village in Germany. She was super friendly and very cute. Most people are drawn to her and she reminds them of their own cat, so she’s definitely a best seller.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
I work with organic cotton, lyocell and bamboo.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Simple Animal?
I buy the t-shirts and totes from a supplier called Continental and Earth Positive. They are certified organic and fair trade.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Most of my customers are from the UK, but Simple Animal also has a large fan-base in Italy. But there are also people in Germany, Austria, France, Switzerland, the US, Canada and South Africa wearing Simple Animal.
What topics most interest you?
Veganism is a topic very close to my heart. I’ve been an ethical vegan for the last 6 years and that has also opened my eyes to other environmental issues and fair labour conditions for people.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
It is good to know that Simple Animal doesn’t contribute to mass production. We have a zero waste policy. No t-shirt goes to waste. The flawed ones get sold for less money in the ‘Imperfectionist’ section on the website or at vegan fairs. It also makes me happy to see that people like the designs and materials and that they get excited about the concept. Simple Animal is very inclusive. We invite all genders to pick whatever t-shirt style they want to pick. Whether you’re straight, gay, lesbian, a-sexual, gender-fluid, green, white, black, yellow, or rainbow coloured, thin, big, wobbly or lean, you are welcome to wear our t-shirts. I hope this comes across and just hope that people like it.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, Simple Animal?
By all means. We’re on social media (Twitter: SimpleAnimalTS, Insta: SimpleAnimal, and Facebook: SimpleAnimal) and you can reach us via email on info@simpleanimal.de. Simple Animal is a small business, so there are no funds to pay for a role within the company, hence: there are no roles. I wouldn’t feel comfortable not paying people for their work.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
Thank you for the interview; it was good to reflect on the brand that Simple Animal has become and to remind myself and others that every contribution, no matter how small, can actually matter. Instead of shifting responsibility, each and every one of us should aim to improve a little something within their power. I think that if we aim to help each other and give a little of our time and thought to others and not just think about our own day-to-day struggles, we can make this world a nicer place to live in for humans and animals alike. I am a big fan of effective altruism, google it!
Thank you for your time, Miriam.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/02/13
Elisabeth was raised in New England to an Irish Catholic Family. She graduated from Dartmouth college in 1993 with a major in studio art. She had numerous costuming jobs before sge founded ELISABETHAN. Here is Elisabeth’s story.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
I grew up in New England, in an Irish Catholic family.
Tell us about your story – education, prior work, and so on?
Graduated from Dartmouth College in 1993. Major in Studio Art. Took costuming classes in the Drama Dept. Had costuming jobs in college & after graduation that helped me get sewing & designing “chops”.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
Little by little started with a love of fashion as a kid, an interest in sewing and making things. Started finding “raw” materials in thrift stores, either remaking existing garments, or buying garments for the fabric… the farther I got into to it, the more I realized how much waste there is in the fashion industry.
What seems like the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
If clothing manufacturing really is the 2nd biggest polluter it’s pretty obvious what the importance of ethical & sustainable designers & companies are— to save the world! i.e. we have to keep raising awareness fast fashion is helping to kill our planet.
What makes slow fashion better than fast fashion?
It’s a different approach to a timeless desire ever since the proverbial fig leaf, there has been a fashion industry. Humans care about how they look. Clothes and fashion are a way to communicate with the world something about ourselves…BUT AT WHAT PRICE. Is your self-expression worth people working in enslaved conditions? We need to take the long view invest in your self and your self-expression thru fashion & clothing, buy clothing for the long haul; buy pieces you know you will wear and love for a long time.
AND in doing so, honor the people who are making the products.
Climate change represents one of the biggest medium- to long-term threats to human survival in reasonable forms. The Government of Canada, NASA, the David Suzuki Foundation, The Royal Society, The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, and numerous others discuss this. Ethical and sustainable fashion relates to it. The reductions in hydrocarbon production from sustainable materials seem imperative sustain the further deterioration of the atmosphere, the biosphere, and the environment. What seems like the responsibilities of ethical and sustainable fashion companies in the prevention of climate catastrophe?
It’s such a daunting topic climate change—some days I can’t get out of bed for thinking about it… the tricky part is to tell people to buy LESS but pay MORE for it… because otherwise all of the costs of manufacturing aren’t being factored in. We have to keep telling people the real story of fast fashion and hope they care enough to change their buying habits.
The Brundtland Commission Report described the need for sustainability. In that, we, the human species, need to meet the “needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs” for long-term sustainability. Does this seem correct to you?
What is Elisabethan?
Elisabethan is an eco-fashion house that encourages people to express themselves thru what they buy, wear, create & share.
What inspired the title of the organization?
Based on my name, Elisabeth Delehaunty, and a reference to the Elizabethan era in England when the arts flourished under a female monarch.
What are some of its feature products?
Women’s tunics & tops, skirts, girls dresses, fingerless gloves.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
All of our raw materials are reclaimed/upcycled. We use post-consumer reclaimed fabric, i.e. second hand clothing, entirely as our raw materials… t-shirts and cashmere sweaters mostly.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Elisabethan?
Our raw materials are upcycled/reclaimed. We cut and “combine” all of our pieces in house, then have or sewing done either by a woman-owned facility in Denver, CO, 250 miles from where we are located, or from a small crew of at home stitchers who live in our community.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
They should – we use cottons, wools, and cashmere; all naturally derived
What topics most interest you?
Less stuff. How much do we really need, and how to address that with the economy of growth that is the accepted approach to business for most of the world?
The Triple Bottom Line defines three performance dimensions: the social, environmental, and commercial/financial. In contradistinction to the standard commercial/financial analysis alone, the Triple Bottom Line incorporates environmental and social performance too. Why should ethical and sustainable (and other) fashion designers and companies include the Triple Bottom Line analysis in individual and business performance?
Because money alone is overrated. To be fully rewarded in what we do, we need to consider all the factors and impacts of our entrepreneurial efforts. Anything less and we are just fooling ourselves.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations, women and children, in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Stop buying cheap crap-it’s not worth it and it’s not really cheap—SOMEONE is paying the cost.
Any other work at this time?
We are working on an off shoot called “notion” —making kit versions of our designs and other items give people the opportunity to make it for themselves!
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, you?
Email at duds@elisabethan.com, or FB is our most active social media outlet—we love to hear from other folks fighting the good fashion fight.
Thank you for your time, Elisabeth.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/02/10
Angelin Rennell is a mother of two that founded and runs Beklina. Beklina was founded in 2006 and sells ethical fashion with collections placees as diverse as Bolivia, Nepal, Peru, and USA.
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I’m a mother with two daughters. I design as well as run my own shop online. I wear many hats!
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
Women who are masters of vintage and thrift shopping.
What is Beklina?
For over 10 years Beklina has curated a tight edit of beautiful and thoughtful fashion and objects, with what we like to call a native-modern vibe. We hope to connect unique perspectives that attracts those of similar passions.
More than a shop, Beklina also produces an ongoing collection, from knits, swimsuits, pants, pillows, rugs, art, jewelry, housewares, textiles, to random objects and handmade clogs. The Beklina collection is produced ethically, mostly in the USA, Nepal, Peru and Bolivia.
What are some of its feature products?
Homeware items, rugs, and cashmere socks.
What topics most interest you?
Textiles and local co-ops that are able to grow the health of their communities/lifestyle through their work
How did you first become interested in ethical fashion and what made you decide to open your own store?
I’ve always eaten organically, shopped in health food stores and so on. But I didn’t really know about organic cotton and ethical fashion until I had my first daughter. I started reading and exploring about healthy, sustainable options for baby clothing, and eventually I came across some brands that made high-quality baby clothing from organic cotton. I wanted to find the same amazing quality of textiles in women’s wear but I quickly realised that there was very little out there. That’s how it always starts, isn’t it? You can’t find something and so you have to make it yourself.
In the very beginning, Beklina was just a hobby for me. I sold a small selection of women’s organic cotton and hemp clothing. Now it’s been 10 years, and we stock fashion from a wider range of brands that fit our philosophy, both smaller just-starting-out designers to established runway brands.
How do you select new brands? In other words, how do you decide whether a brand fits Beklina’s values and is “ethical”?
My motto for selecting lines is “Style first”. I don’t bother exploring designers if I don’t love what they’re doing visually. If I love something I then think about whether it is a good fit for our customer base: individual and artistic women who care about ethics and sustainability and enjoy a native-modern aesthetic.
When there is a fit aesthetically, I dig in and take a look at the types of textiles the brand uses, where they produce (local is best) and what the work environments are like. It’s amazing how many designers are paying attention to these things nowadays and participate in green and/or ethical wares and production.
What is the business of selling ethical fashion like? Are there any special challenges that come with the territory of selling ethical fashion?
When I first started Beklina, ten years ago, ethical fashion was considered unusual and standout, and some had a negative bias towards it. They would stay away from eco fashion because they thought it wasn’t “high-fashion” enough. I still come across people like this, but only very occasionally. Ethical fashion is mainstream, almost “normal” now, and the label “ethical” is considered a plus these days.
One tough part of selling ethical fashion is when you love something and then find out that it isn’t ethical, at least not from both an environmental and a social perspective.
“The bottom line is that people are drawn to eco fashion for a variety of reasons and at different levels.”Ideally, a garment would consist of organic materials AND have been produced ethically. But some people (both customers and brands) don’t see the full picture and only care about one or the other. For example, many customers support ethical brands because they are against unfair labour. But pieces made from non-organic materials aren’t technically fully “ethical”, even if they were ethically produced. On the other hand, there are also a lot of people who only care about the materials, because they are very sensitive to chemicals and need untreated fabrics for example.
I would say that our approach to buying is very all-encompassing. We know people are learning and growing, both the designers and the customers. That’s why we are comfortable picking up lines at different stages of their growth in eco fashion, in order to support the entire upward movement.
What does your own wardrobe look like? Do you exclusively wear ethical labels? What about beauty products?
I mainly wear my own line Lina Rennell and other pieces from our shop, mixed with a bit of vintage. I am a very basic simple dresser, rotating through a handful of outfits. I live in vintage Levis, and my knit sweater tops. I’m all over the place with beauty products. Mostly I’m trying out new lines that people send me. I don’t have a big beauty routine, other than I love a hot bath. I’ve always been minimal and “hippy” about beauty products. This is the deodorant I wear for example.
Ethical fashion labels can be expensive. What would you recommend to someone who is on a tight budget but wants to build a more ethical closet?
The first thing that comes to mind is that online the sale seasons are endless. If you like a shop’s curation, get on their mailing list! And don’t worry about building up an entire ethical wardrobe from scratch. Buy one or two pieces that you really love a season and mix in vintage. No matter the budget, vintage is warm, original and precious.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/02/06
Sarah earned a BFA in New media and Metalsmithing from Millersville University. She studied under Christina Miller, who is the co-founder of Ethical Metalsmiths. Sarah founded Sarah Zentz Jewelry. Here is her story.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
In 2008, I received a BFA in New Media and Metalsmithing from Millersville University in Pennsylvania. I studied Metalsmithing under Christina Miller, Co-Founder of Ethical Metalsmiths, a non profit organization leading jewelers and consumers in becoming informed activists for responsible mining, sustainable economic development and verified, ethical sources of materials used in making jewelry. Therefore, I have chosen to only work with ethically sourced materials. All of my jewelry is made with recycled metals, reclaimed wood, and ethically sourced diamonds.
What seems like the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
The commitment from jewelers to become activists for responsible mining, sustainable and ethical sources for gold, silver, and diamonds could lead to responsible mining and supply chain transparency. It is of upmost importance for jewelry designers and companies to transform the mining and jewelry industries for the protection of the earth, its peoples, and cultures.
How can ethical and sustainable fashion contribute to the long-term sustainable future for the atmosphere, the biosphere, and the environment?
The mining industry has a devastating impact on ecosystems from poised waters to solid toxic waste. According to No Dirty Gold, “producing gold for one wedding ring alone generates 20 tons of waste.” Most people probably don’t know this but metal mining was the number one toxic polluter in the United States in 2010 releasing arsenic, mercury, and lead into the environment. According to Ethical Metalsmtihs, “Large open-pit mines operated by multi-national corporations consume wilderness areas, destroy ecosystems and violate human rights. Artisanal mining in impoverished nations exploit labor, poison communities and ravage environments.” Ethical jewelers can help reduce the ecological and human footprint of mining by using sustainable materials and recycled metals.
What is Sarah Zentz Jewelry?
Sarah Zentz Jewelry is an ethical jewelry production company. I design contemporary pieces of adornment that are minimal, geometric, and ethically made where the ocean meets the redwood forest in Big Sur, California. My handmade ethical jewelry is inspired by and created for the nature loving adventurer and traveler.
What are some of its feature products?
My newest ethical jewelry line is made from reclaimed redwood and Argentium silver. The redwood species contains the largest and tallest trees in the world. These majestic trees can live thousands of years. Redwood forests once covered large parts of Europe, Asia, and North America, but changing climates spared only three small areas of these majestic trees – the Coast of California is one of these three places. Due to habitat losses from fire, logging, drought, and air pollution they are endangered. In my jewelry production, I only use fallen old growth redwood from California. The redwood is not treated, and remains fully biodegradable. My hope is that my jewelry will be a part of the conservation efforts to preserve the remaining redwood forests by bringing awareness to the threats the largest and tallest trees in the world are facing. Additionally, Argentium Silver is considered an “environmentally responsible” metal. All Argentium is made from 100% recycled silver and fully traceable, ethically sourced, raw silver.
What is the customer base – the demographics?
Although, I consider many of my wood jewelry designs unisex, my main customer base is 25-34-year-old women.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
Since the first time I saw the Pacific Ocean and magnanimous redwood trees, I was inspired to live and create work in the beautiful place I now call home in Big Sur, California. I love creating pieces of adornment that have a story and connect people to a space. To be able to create jewelry using fully traceable, sustainable, and ethical materials gives me the most incredible fulfillment and purpose. I am so blessed to be a part of the movement of ethical jewelry and ethical fashion.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, you?
The best way to get in touch with me is through my website:
https://www.sarahzentzjewelry.com
You can also keep up to date with me on the following social media platforms:
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/sarahzentzjewelry
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/SarahZentzJewelry/
Twitter: https://www.twitter.com/sarah_zentz
Thank you for your time, Sarah Zentz.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/31
Good Cloth specializes in ethical fashion—clothing, accessories, and home goods—that are designed with consideration for workers, the planet, and consumers. The shop curates products that are made with ethically-sourced materials and have a transparent supply chain. Style, workers’ rights, and the environment are the heart of Good Cloth. The company includes product journeys for each item, so that consumers can read how products are made, from beginning to end. How clothing is made shouldn’t be a mystery. Read about how creator Stephanie started her ethical fashion journey.
Tell us about yourself in brief, how you got involved in ethical and sustainable fashion?
The steps that lead me to dive headfirst into founding an ethical fashion business had been long in the making. All the signs pointed to an intersection that I just hadn’t yet discovered. By the time I launched Good Cloth, I had been writing about fashion and human rights, separately, for years. Before my ‘aha’ moment, they seemed entirely disparate loves. On one hand, I wrote about fashion and makeup. On the other I wrote about human rights. It wasn’t until I wrote Human Trafficking Around the World: Hidden in Plain Sight (it was published—courtesy of Columbia University Press—in 2013) that the intersection between the two became clear.
When I began to research human trafficking, I learned about factories’ operations and forced labor worldwide. As I found out more about human trafficking and exploitation in the fashion industry, it shaped and changed the way I shopped. An avid lover of fashion, I was shocked to learn how garment workers are treated and how many are forced to pay recruitment fees that put them in debt bondage. Lack of transparency and convoluted supply chains—where nominal onus is placed on companies—creates opportunity for unscrupulous people to step in and take advantage. Even the best-intentioned companies have a hard time with transparency when they have convoluted supply chains. That’s part of the reason why Good Cloth curates designers that work with small supply chains. The other reason is that we want to give a helping hand to companies that are doing tremendous work but don’t have ample funds and, thereby, need more support.
Even when debt bondage isn’t an issue, garment workers don’t earn a living wage in the nations where most of our clothing in the U.S. is made. Garment workers don’t earn enough to satisfy their basic needs, including, clothing. As consumers we expect a dress to cost $9.99, yet the person who made the dress doesn’t earn enough to buy clothes for themselves and their family.
All of this information weighed heavy on me during my research. I began to change my personal shopping patterns and conversed with friends and family about convoluted supply chains and lack of transparency across the fashion industry. As Project Runway’s Tim Gunn told me when I interviewed him for Huffington Post, “Designers and brands have a responsibility to provide transparency information to consumers,” Gunn said. “Otherwise, it’s just a lying deceptive shell game.” I wanted to support brands that ethically-sourced and gave transparency from seed to shelf. It wasn’t until I began speaking to readers that I realized all the research I had done for myself could be an excellent tool for those who want an easy way to shop responsibly, where the research and vetting has already been done for them.
I began doing presentations on my book and human trafficking in May 2013; it was less than a month after the Rana Plaza collapse and readers approached me on how they could shop ethically. Meaning, they wanted to make sure that what they purchased wasn’t tied to exploitative or dangerous conditions. What once seemed remote was no longer. They got it and so too did the media, at least momentarily. As consumers our memory is short and our patience shorter. We want instant gratification when it comes to purchasing, but the sustainable fashion movement is asking people to slow down and think about how to spend their money consciously. That requires ease. Meaning, people need to have easily accessible ways to shop responsibly.
These conversations—with friends, family and readers—showed me how powerful it is when people realize they can make a difference. Exploitation, human trafficking, poverty and marginalization are all words that invoke feelings of hopelessness. They also seem remote to people—problems happening elsewhere to people far away. That isn’t accurate, but in order to clarify this misunderstanding people have to be engaged and open to dialogue. Fashion is an ideal conduit. It’s light and fun, but when a person purchases a garment they like and it has an attached social good, it makes the person feel good—he/she walks away feeling that he/she is an active part of positive change. I founded Good Cloth, in part, because there is a stark difference in animation when a person talks about human trafficking generally versus what he/she can do as an individual to be part of the solution. I launched the store online, instead of at a brick and mortar location, because I want it to be accessible no matter where the customer is located.
Running the store satisfies me on multiple levels. Good Cloth is the perfect intersection between two of my loves—fashion and human rights—and it feels good to do good by creating an easy-to-access space for consumers to shop responsibly.
With ethical and sustainable fashion, what is its importance in theory?
When I hear the world sustainability, it is hard for me to compartmentalize into fashion alone. It is a way of living. When I think about sustainable, I think about life and how even in daily life, particularly in the US, there are so many ‘unsustainables’. I may have made up a new word. (Laugh) We live our lives in warp speed. Rush in the morning, rush during work to meet deadlines, rush off to whatever happens after the workday is done—in my world that is picking up the kids, homework time, bedtime, sleep and then doing it all again, in a hurry. I don’t think the constant rushing lifestyle is healthy or sustainable. There are so many moving parts that I haven’t figured out how to change it, but I make moderations where I can, slowing down where I can. That includes etching out time for relaxation with my kids and alone.
What’s also not sustainable is the marginalization of women worldwide. This is part of the reason founding Good Cloth was important to me. Human trafficking and exploitation is a serious problem in the fashion industry and the vast majority of garment workers worldwide are women and girls. That means the vast majority of people detrimented in the fashion industry are women and girls. That’s why Good Cloth solely includes designers that make products that ethically source materials and consider workers—by going above and beyond the bar set by labor laws—and the planet along the entire supply chain.
It’s also essential to me that Good Cloth is a space for women entrepreneurs. There is a significant gender gap in leadership positions in the US, due to explicit and implicit bias, and I want to do my part to support women leaders in business. I want to help improve and sustain women in leadership positions. So, as you can see, sustainability isn’t theory for me, it’s a mission.
Shop Good Cloth online
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/25
Wildlife Works’ objective is to advance economic and social solutions for communities where both wildlife survival and forest preservation is threatened.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
California native. Chinese descent. My grandparents have many war stories from China. They finally settled in Taiwan, where I spent some time in my childhood.
Tell us about your story – education, prior work, and so on?
Studies sociology at UCLA. I always wanted to get into fashion but knew I had to find my way through a non-traditional path. I started my career in consumer marketing and always worked with small business so I picked up an entrepreneurial perspective and work ethic. On a fluke, I started modeling and styling on the side. It started to pick up and I quite my full time job to pursue modeling, styling and creative fashion production full time. It paid off. Not only was I modeling, I became art director for a couple small fashion magazines, as well as doing marketing for small startup fashion brands.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
In New York, I was recruited to do global marketing for a boutique fashion brand based in Hong Kong. I moved with one month’s notice. I was ready for the adventure. But the work environment turned out to be completely soul sucking and unfulfilling. I quit, moved home in search of something that gave back to the world. I met the founder of wildlife works years ago and got back in touch and it was perfect time.
What seems like the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
They are important as “proof of concept.” To create a consumer movement that pressures the big companies to produce more ethically.
What seems like the importance of fair trade?
Fair Trade is an important bar of measurement for all production to measure against. Are the producers at the end of the supply chain getting a fair and sustainable wage? And certification is important for transparency.
What seems like the importance of a (relative to the country) living wage?
It’s the only way people can sustain their livelihood on a job.
What makes slow fashion better than fast fashion?
More thoughtful, less volume, less is more – promotes longer use and sustainable production practices.
How can ethical and sustainable fashion contribute to the long-term sustainable future for the atmosphere, the biosphere, and the environment?
Continue to move production towards sustainable means, as well as train consumers to not demand fast fashion – but this would require a huge industry and paradigm shift. I am hopeful we’ll get there or be forced to get there when we finally deplete our natural resources.
The wildlife works factory in Kenya produces quality made garments that support the local rural population and protect wildlife and trees Their workers get paid a Fair Trade ‘premium’ for every certified order. This money helps to further local empowerment and economic development and has made a big impact on the lives of our workers in rural Kenya.
The Sustainable Apparel Coalition invented The Higg Index. It assesses some products’ sustainability throughout the products’ lifecycle. The European Outdoor Group and the Outdoor Industry Association developed an index of products’ impacts on the environment throughout their lifecycle, the Eco Index. Large regions with serious attempts to implement standards and quantitative analysis of sustainability of products throughout their lifecycle. What seem like the importance of quality tests, or metrics, such as these and others?
Metrics to measure movement on a scale is necessary to have all parties speaking the same language so that the goal is clearly defined.
Certifications, or standards and labelling, remain important, which associate with analysis. These include Fairtrade International, MADE-BY, the Ethical Trading Initiative Base Code, the Soil Association label and the EKOlabel, the Oko-Tex standard 100 mark, and the European Eco-Label for Textile Products, and more. There’s many. Do these help systematize and clarify, or obfuscate and confuse?
It’s definitely confusing to the end user, when it’s supposed to do the opposite. The danger with too many levels of labeling with different standards, consumers are still left with the confusion of which labels are truly legitimate, i.e. organic food label has started to lose consumer trust, but it’s better than nothing or the standard conventional.
The Ethical Fashion Forum developed the Ethical Policy Framework. An ethical policy framework tool for those devoted to enactment of ethical and sustainable purchases, production, and business decisions. What do services such as these perform for the public, consumers, producers, and businesspeople?
These organizations are great to help consumers sift through the labeling overload.
Who are personal heroes, or heroines, within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
Safia Minney of People Tree.
What is Wildlife Works?
Conservation company that protects forests and wildlife by providing sustainable jobs in rural areas with human-wildlife conflict. On our Kenyan conservation site, we have the world’s only carbon neutral Fair Trade factory that protects wildlife.
What inspired the title of the organization?
The founder’s, Mike’s, basic idea is that if you want wildlife, you have to make sure it works for local communities.
What are some of its feature products?
Our own bran: organic, easy to wear.
Our main business is producing for other brands. Our customers include: Puma, Uniform, Raven ad Lily, Greater Good, and Lalesso.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
For our own brand: organic cotton.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Wildlife Works?
For our own brand: Chetna in India grows cotton, Rajlaskshmi Mills, we design and cut and sew.
What topics most interest you?
Inspiring as many people as possible to consume less and more consciously in all areas of life.
Why should ethical and sustainable (and other) fashion designers and companies include the Triple Bottom Line analysis in individual and business performance?
Considers and sustains the health of our planet!
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). How do tragedies shed light on work conditions in garment factories?
Helped to ignite consumer outrage, awareness and demand for better working conditions.
What is the importance of the status of women in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
They make up the majority of the global fashion work force.
What seem like some of the explicit and implicit forms observed in personal and professional life to you?
This says a lot. ;P
Thank you for your time, Joyce.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/24
Avila is an Australian lifestyle label locally produced in Melbourne, offering luxury clothing you can wear everyday. They instil qualities of elegance and naturalness in all their garments by selecting luxurious natural fabrics, ensuring quality fit and an ethical and sustainable conscience. Their philosophy stems from supporting healthy, balanced lifestyles where style and comfort do co-exist. We have a chat with founder and designer, Ashleigh Bingham.
Tell us about family background
I was born in Melbourne, Australia and grew up in the outer suburbs of Melbourne. I spent a lot of my childhood on our family farm in rural Victoria, where I developed a passion for nature and animals.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
I developed an interest in textiles design and construction during school. I gravitated towards using different types of fabrics to create various mixed media artworks. From there I moved into fashion, as I loved the idea that a piece of blank fabric could transform into something wearable.
After school I studied a Bachelor in Design specializing in Fashion. I struggled through the majority of this course not really finding my area or where I wanted to take this. It wasn’t until my final year where I was given the freedom to truly express my personal style and active wear and casual wear was exactly that.
Out of University I interned for a while and then started my own label.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
After doing a research study during my University course I really started to see the issues in the fashion industry and the huge negative impact this industry has on people and the environment. I was shocked at the conditions in many factories and sweatshops.
I also saw the importance of quality clothing that would last and not be thrown away after one season. The more I learnt the more I became passionate about doing what I could to make a change. To show people that you can merge, fashion, style, quality, comfort, ethics and sustainability. These are the core values at Avila.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
After university I started working for a fashion label as an intern. While working I saw first hand some of the issues that I had researched during university and I felt more strongly that there was a better way to produce clothing. After interning for a while I finally got the confidence to start my own label that incorporated all the values that I felt strongly about.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
Ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies have a crucial role in educating and making consumers stop and think about what they are purchasing. These companies prove that fashion can be produced ethically and sustainably and hopefully encourage a movement towards accountability within the industry.
What is the importance of fair trade?
Fair-trade is very important, as it is a universal accreditation that products with this certification are produced in decent working conditions and fair terms of trade for farmers and workers. Fair-trade raises standards of living for these farmers and their families and is aimed at encouraging a positive change in the industry.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
I would say Emma Watson as she has an amazing influence and uses her large reach to educate people. She is standing up for issues that she truly believes are huge issues within the industry.
What is Avila?
Avila is an emerging Australian lifestyle label locally produced in Melbourne, offering luxury clothing you can wear everyday. We instill qualities of elegance of naturalness in all our garments by selecting luxurious natural fabrics, ensuring quality fit and an ethical and sustainable conscience.
What inspired the title of the organization?
The name Avila was inspired by one of the horses I grew up with. Her personality, free spirit and strength are inline with how I see the Avila customer and therefore the perfect name for the label.
What are some of its feature products?
We produce a casual daywear range, with versatile classic styles that don’t date. Our other range is an Athleisure range, which includes styles combining elements of active, comfort and leisure.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
We use organic cotton, tencel, modal and merino fibers mostly.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Avila?
We use accredited suppliers that we research thoroughly before working with. We are able to source the majority of our fabrics here in Melbourne from a local mill and a local company accredited by Ethical Clothing Australia (ECA) produces our products.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
Yes, the fibers and fabrics we use are biodegradable.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
The Avila woman strives to create a balanced lifestyle through health and fitness. She is very busy and enjoys being able to transition from a yoga class to coffee with friends, while remaining comfortable and stylish. She has an interest in sustainable fashion and locally produced clothing and values the story behind clothing.
What topics most interest you?
Functional fashion that is eco friendly. I am also interested in fabric production and developing new ways to produce fabrics with a lower environmental impact.
Did you have a mentor in this work?
I have been lucky enough to have many people in the industry that have offered support and advise. I do have a mentor in the Business and finance area, which has been crucial to the growth of the brand.
Have you mentored others?
At this stage I have not but would love to mentor others in the future.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
There are so many benefits to having a mentor for professional and personal development. One of the main benefits to me personally has been getting different perspectives, which has enabled me to see my business differently, and learning to keep an open mind.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). How do tragedies shed light on work conditions in garment factories?
At Avila we take responsibility to educate people as much as possible so they are able to make an informed decision. Our number one priority is that our makers produce our clothing in an ethical manner and in good working conditions. We work closely with our makers who love making our products and are very passionate about every item they make. The more knowledge that we can share about the issues the more people become aware and hope this can lead to a change.
What educational campaigns and pragmatic initiatives might the fashion industry encourage and support to improve the chances for girls and women?
There are a number of scholarship programs that are being run for women in developing countries. I believe this is a really effective way to educate and support women in communities where equality and education for women is lacking.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations, women and children, in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
I think encouraging people to ask questions. All along the supply change it is the responsibility of everyone in the process to ask questions about where, how and who was involved in the making of this product. For us as designers we need to be asking our suppliers for detailed information about where our fabrics come from, who made them and in what conditions were they made. We need to know everything about all parts of the process.
As consumers we need to be asking the brands about how and where the products are made. If everyone in the process asks more questions I believe we will begin to move towards an industry that promotes a better quality of life for all involved in the process.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
Having the knowledge that my label supports local makers working in great conditions and creating jobs for our locally industry is a really great feeling. I also hope that we prompt more people to ask questions about how and by whom, their garments are made, therefore helping the industry move towards more sustainable and ethical processes.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
At the moment, I am solely dedicated to my label and the growth of the label.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Overdressed by Elizabeth L. Cline.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, Avila?
We can be contacted at info@avila.com.au. You can also follow us on Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest.
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
Having to put myself out of my comfort zone to enable my business to grow. In the early days of the business I was not able to hire people to do certain things that I did not have knowledge in. I had to put myself out there to learn about all aspects of the business, which at times was very uncomfortable and emotionally challenging for me.
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in personal life for you?
Committing to starting my own business has been quite an emotional process. No one is telling you what to do or when to do it, so it has really been a learning process for me to stay motivated and persevere through the challenges of running my own business.
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
Do what you love!
Thank you for your time, Ashleigh.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/23
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion. What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
Hello, I’m Jessica from Barcelona, Spain. I have been hand sewing since I was 8 years old, and I learnt by watching my mother and grandmother. At that age it was just a hobby, it relaxed me, and I never thought that it became my passion and work. Some years ago my grandma kept on telling me “leave the work you have and concentrate on sewing! You have talent!”…and here I am with my own brand “Pqno… Handmade designs”.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion? How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
I have learned by myself, trying, failing, trying again, designing my own patterns and using them first to see if they would work or not. I use ‘common sense’ and ask and listen friends and family experience.
When I started my brand, I wondered if I could do something “extra”, not just sew and create useful and colorful products, but how I could create impact and contribute to the society and welfare, and then I start reading about ethical and sustainable fashion, and it fit to my brand’s main idea: buy just the fabrics I need, always 100% cotton, and use them all producing almost none waste.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
It’s not just to make eco-sustainable products to sell, but to teach and show the world that another way of making clothes is possible. When I sell in markets I enjoy explaining how I work and that my pieces have high quality, are useful, are not expensive, are unique and moreover, have no negative impact in the environment.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
I would say the small brands like mine that are willing of carry on their passion for sustainable fashion, no matter the barriers along the way. It’s hard to have a small piece of the fashion cake, and if it’s sustainable fashion even harder.
What is Pqno… Handmade designs?
#alapqnostyle was born to combine quality cotton fabrics with cheerful and modern pattern, to create useful and unique pieces, and if they can have more than one use, and be combined to create sets, better, always respecting an eco-sustainable design and an affordable and adjusted price throughout the year.
I buy the fabrics in local shops, selecting one by one, thinking how I can combine them. I buy small amount of each fabric to have a good selection to choose from, and this means that the products created are unique models.
I take care of the design and manufacture by hand or machine, with great care and love, as each piece is special and even more if I know who is going to use it. I use the maximum of the fabrics to generate minimal impact on waste and be as sustainable as possible. Member of the Associació Moda Sostenible Barcelona (Barcelona Sustainable Fashion Association) and Women Creators from Gràcia-Barcelona, and it’s part of the directory of The Slow wear project and Sustainable fashion brands.
What inspired the title of the organization?
“Pqno” is abbreviation of “por qué no” in Spanish and “per què no” in Catalan, that means “why not”, and when I was considering of starting the business, I have my doubts, as many of us I think, but I always finished the sentence with “why not?”: “why not to try it? why not to do it? why not to start it?”. I said “why not” so many times that when I started thinking about the name’s brand, it just came “Pqno” and then I added “handmade designs” to be more specific about the nature of the brand.
What are some of its feature products?
It started as a kids accessories brand, but adults also increasingly buy my products to use them themselves or give them to other adults. For kids, the most popular are the bibs, the softies and the pacifier strap (both hand sewed). The backpacks, saquettes, pouches, hair scrunchie are for everybody, no matter the age. Now in 2017 I have 3 new products: -a frame for decoration (a small embroidery frame as I used to use for hand sewed when I was little, and pieces of fabrics I can’t use). -a bag for women (you can adjust the length of the straps so it can be a tote bag or wear it as crossed-body or normal bag. The patterns are more for adults but keeping #alapqnostyle). A mini bag (you can adjust the leght of the straps and it can be used as crossed-body or as a tote bag or belt-bag).
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Basically locals, Barcelona, but as well Spain, and since Barcelona is such an international city, and as well via web, I have sold to many places in Europe, Latin America, USA, Japan, China, Australia & New Zealand.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). How do tragedies shed light on work conditions in garment factories?
It was known that the working conditions were/are really bad, but unfortunately it has to be a tragedy to be on the news. What I am not that sure is that if it has been any improvement or change.
What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
I would say its human rights, not just women and children, men too, and in any industry. Any person should work in a good working environment and respecting the rights.
The Gender Inequality Index (GII) relates to the empowerment of women, gender equality, and international women’s rights. The progress for gender equity is positive. Regressive forces exist in explicit and implicit forms. What seem like some of the explicit and implicit forms observed in personal and professional life to you?
Once a Norwegian woman minister asked “why we women want to be equal, when in some fields we are better than men?”. I strongly agree. We are born equal and have the same rights, but it’s society, education, family, tradition that makes the ‘gap’ between men and women, and it’s accepted in some way. So there has to be a change of mentality in society starting at school and at home.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations, women and children, in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Consumers should know where the product they buy comes from and the “who made my clothes” campaign is a good start.
Fashion industry should take care of the work conditions when the hire a company to make the clothes, but here as well, I think that each country should take care of that too, it should be more inspections and verify the quality of the work environment and salaries.
What personal fulfillments comes from this work for you?
A smile that makes me smile. When I’m at a market, I look at people how they move around, they look usually serious, thinking, looking, touching, but when they see my products, they smile! And that makes me smile. It’s a privilege to be able to work on what I like, plus at it’s sustainable, and if I make people smile, even better!
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, Pqno… Handmade designs?
Mail pqno@pqno.com, social media @pqnohandmade #alapqnostyle, blog/shop www.pqno.com.
love challenges, some of my products are the result of people explaining me a problem they had, so challenges and comments are welcome!
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
I’m glad I have had the opportunity to be a small part in Trusted Clothes, congratulations for the project! Any chance we have to talk about ethical and sustainable fashion is great. People needs to know more about it and it’s a very good idea to let the designers express themselves.
Thank you for your time, Jessica.
Thanks Scott and we keep in touch.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/23
This story began in 2006, when David Rhode was looking for an engagement ring but couldn’t find a jeweller who could tell him where their diamonds had come from, or the conditions under which their jewellery was produced. The more he looked into the industry, the more compromises he discovered he was being asked to make. From blood diamonds, to dirty gold, to sweatshops and child labour.
Tell us about your story – education, prior work, and so on? How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I used to work as a television producer, in documentaries. Ten years ago I wanted to get engaged, and knew that my partner would be interested in the provenance of the diamond (she had worked in Africa, and I was aware of the ethical problems in the diamond industry). I wanted a top quality engagement ring, but also one where the materials were fully traceable and ethically sourced. I couldn’t find what I was looking for, and discussed this with my university friend Tim Ingle. Together we decided to tackle this issue.
What seems like the importance of fair trade?
It’s five years now since Fairtrade gold arrived on the market, and in that time a significant amount has been done to help small-scale miners in the developing world. According to the Fairtrade Foundation, the Fairtrade mining cooperatives sold 170kg of Fairtrade gold to the global market in 2015, generating a ‘Fairtrade premium’ of US$340,000 on top of the selling price to invest in community projects.
What seems like the importance of a (relative to the country) living wage?
The Minimum Wage simply isn’t enough to survive – certainly not in London. The Living Wage Foundation calculates the Living Wage based on the basic cost of living across the UK. In London, the Living Wage is £9.15 per hour. At Ingle and Rhode we are proud to be a Living Wage employer.
Climate change represents one of the biggest medium- to long-term threats to human survival in reasonable forms. The Government of Canada, NASA, the David Suzuki Foundation, The Royal Society, The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, and numerous others discuss this. Ethical and sustainable fashion relates to it. The reductions in hydrocarbon production from sustainable materials seem imperative sustain the further deterioration of the atmosphere, the biosphere, and the environment. What seems like the responsibilities of ethical and sustainable fashion companies in the prevention of climate catastrophe?
It’s impossible to offer a fine jewellery product with absolutely zero environmental impact. Mining inevitably impacts the environment, and metals are melted at high temperatures and gemstones are transported around the world. However, we believe we have an obligation to minimize our footprint as far as possible – as long as people require fine jewellery, we’ll make it in the most environmentally friendly way possible.
The Brundtland Commission Report described the need for sustainability. In that, we, the human species, need to meet the “needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs” for long-term sustainability. Does this seem correct to you?
It seems like common sense, it’s just strange that so many people seem to disagree.
How can ethical and sustainable fashion contribute to the long-term sustainable future for the atmosphere, the biosphere, and the environment?
Fashion is clearly a high-profile industry. Anything that raises consumer awareness of these issues must be helpful in the long run.
Certifications, or standards and labelling, remain important, which associate with analysis. These include Fairtrade International, MADE-BY, the Ethical Trading Initiative Base Code, the Soil Association label and the EKOlabel, the Oko-Tex standard 100 mark, and the European Eco-Label for Textile Products, and more. There’s many. Do these help systematize and clarify, or obfuscate and confuse?
Of these certifications, the only one we’ve had dealings with is Fairtrade – we’ve found their involvement in our industry to be very positive. The Fairtrade brand is extremely well recognised, and provides consumers with re-assurance that someone has bothered to verify supply chains back to source. If that helps encourage ethical production, that must surely be a good thing.
What is Ingle & Rhode?
An independent luxury jeweller, with a fully traceable and ethical supply chain.
Thank you for your time, David.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/20
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
I was born in Kenya to a family of Indian origin. My great grandfather moved from India to Kenya during British colonial times to work on the railways. My grandfather went back to India to study to become a Hindu pundit. He decided then with his best friend at school that when they grew up, their children would get married so that then they could be family. That’s how my parents got married. However in spite of his spiritual training my grandfather decided that commerce was his interest and started a textile business which my father then expanded across Africa. My family lived between Kenya and India but moved to the UK when I was 8 years old. I’ve spent most of my live since then in the UK – apart from a few periods of living in Switzerland and Zanzibar. So my culture and heritage has always been a mix – I feel Indian, Kenyan and British.
Tell us about your story – education, prior work, and so on?
As a teenager I became vegetarian and became passionate about animal rights – leafleting my school for “Chickens Lib” was a particularly memorable campaign.
At university I studied Economics & Government and went back to do a Master’s degree in Development Economics with a focus on Africa. My dream was to work in a large development organization such as the World Bank or the UN. I realized that dream with a short stint at UNCTAD (UN Conference on Trade and Development) in Geneva. Very quickly I became disillusioned with the waste and bureaucracy and returned to the UK.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
After my time in Geneva, my father asked me to join him in his business selling t-shirts that were made in his factory in Tanzania. I decided to give it a try and very quickly I was hooked. I saw myself the difference we made to the lives of thousands of people working in the Tanzanian factory and I realized that business was a much more powerful tool to help realize my goals than NGOs or public organization.
After two years I started my own company Mantis World. We never considered ourselves an ethical company as we took decent values for granted given my experience of our factory in Tanzania. It was only when I visited other factories that I realized decent values were not normal in this industry. That was when we realized the importance of talking about ethics and sustainability in textile manufacture.
What seems like the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
I think it’s the only way to do long term business.
What is the importance of fair trade?
To me this is a confusing term as it is used in many ways – either as a description of how businesses work but also as a sort of “brand” of the FairTrade foundation. It’s very difficult to measure exactly what the impact is as a loose description. As a concept – of course it’s very important. We cannot be so desperate to get a good deal that we would be happy with exploitation of others to get it. We have to value people and the planet too.
What seems like the importance of a (relative to the country) living wage?
It’s important because it allows us to measure. It’s not easy to pay the living wage, but at least if you know what it is you can work towards it. As a company we make sure we are paying the London Living Wage as set by the Living Wage Foundation, which is higher than the Government-set living wage.
Recently our factory calculated the cost of living in Tanzania and by actually measuring the daily costs, the factory immediately increased wages. You can only manage what you measure!
What makes slow fashion better than fast fashion?
The price and delivery pressures of fast fashion can lead to abuses of human rights in factories and takes a huge environmental toll on resources. We need to value our resources – buy less, choose well, make it last (in the words of Vivienne Westwood)
The Pythagoreans, the Neoplatonists, Aristotle, and the Stoics, William Wilberforce, Baron Erskine created the ancient thought about animal rights. Jeremy Bentham, the founder of utilitarianism, discussed the suffering of non-human animals. Peter Singer argues for non-human animal rights too. The Nonhuman Rights Project (NhRP) People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), the Humane Society of the United States (HSUS), and others work to support animals and work to enforce their rights. Some fashion manufacture processes violate animals’ rights. What is the importance of animal rights, especially in an ethical and sustainable fashion context?
Personally it’s a big issue for me. For this reason my company will not work with leather or animal products. From a broader perspective, as an industry we need to do a lot more to ensure animal rights. The Textile Exchange has created a Responsible Down Standard, Responsible Wool Standard and is working on a much needed Responsible Leather Standard. I hope these standards will help change how the fashion industry treats animals.
Climate change represents one of the biggest medium- to long-term threats to human survival in reasonable forms. The Government of Canada, NASA, the David Suzuki Foundation, The Royal Society, The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, and numerous others discuss this. Ethical and sustainable fashion relates to it. The reductions in hydrocarbon production from sustainable materials seem imperative sustain the further deterioration of the atmosphere, the biosphere, and the environment. What seems like the responsibilities of ethical and sustainable fashion companies in the prevention of climate catastrophe?
It’s not the responsibility of just ethical and sustainable fashion companies. It’s everyone’s responsibility!! What I found extremely interesting recently is that organic farming (not just of cotton, but all agriculture) can help reverse climate change by trapping carbon in the soil. So we might have our solutions already, we just need to implement them.
The Brundtland Commission Report described the need for sustainability. In that, we, the human species, need to meet the “needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs” for long-term sustainability. Does this seem correct to you?
I completely agree. At the moment it feels like we are stealing from our children.
How can ethical and sustainable fashion contribute to the long-term sustainable future for the atmosphere, the biosphere, and the environment?
The Sustainable Apparel Coalition invented The Higg Index. It assesses some products’ sustainability throughout the products’ lifecycle. The European Outdoor Group and the Outdoor Industry Association developed an index of products’ impacts on the environment throughout their lifecycle, the Eco Index. Large regions with serious attempts to implement standards and quantitative analysis of sustainability of products throughout their lifecycle. What seem like the importance of quality tests, or metrics, such as these and others?
Metrics are really important. None of them are perfect, but we have to start somewhere. Again we can only manage what we measure.
The Ethical Fashion Forum developed the Ethical Policy Framework. An ethical policy framework tool for those devoted to enactment of ethical and sustainable purchases, production, and business decisions. What do services such as these perform for the public, consumers, producers, and businesspeople?
There is never one answer or one way to conduct business more ethically. So it’s not the only way, but I do love the work of the Ethical Fashion Forum. We have been supporters and partners for a long time and they are usually the first port of call for fashion companies and start-ups wanting to know how to be more sustainable. They have a wealth of knowledge and expertise.
Who are personal heroes, or heroines, within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
Katharine Hamnett, Vivienne Westwood, the team at Patagonia.
What is Mantis World?
A supplier of “blank” apparel to the imprintables industry. We manufacture ethically made fashion basics for men, women, children and babies. Holding stock in the UK, we are able to offer fast delivery of our garments across Europe, ready for other companies to personalize with their logos or designs – all with no minimum order quantity. We hope this allows other companies to buy sustainable garments easily.
What inspired the title of the organization?
I was trying to find an African creature that was not yet trademarked. I accidentally mixed up a praying mantis (nasty creature) with a stick insect (harmless creature). Oops!
What are some of its feature products?
In general, our customers love our “Well Made” clothing; using the best quality fabrics and cuts, made responsibly with more sustainable fibres than ever. We’re well-known for our brand Babybugz, the biggest range of babywear within our industry. Our premium, retail-style Superstar collection has been a success story since its introduction in 2011. And this year, we’re very excited about the launch of ONE, our new gender-neutral range.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
Cotton mostly, some cotton/polyester blends and Tencel®.
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Water use in production is an issue. What is the importance of reducing excess water use in the production of fashion?
Water consumption is a big issue in fashion. The highest uses of water come in growing fibre, manufacturing process and post-consumer laundry. Using rain-fed instead of irrigated cotton, using better dyeing processes and minimizing dyeing, washing less are all ways of reducing water consumption. Biggest effect would come from just buying less stuff!
The Triple Bottom Line defines three performance dimensions: the social, environmental, and commercial/financial. In contradistinction to the standard commercial/financial analysis alone, the Triple Bottom Line incorporates environmental and social performance too. Why should ethical and sustainable (and other) fashion designers and companies include the Triple Bottom Line analysis in individual and business performance?
It’s the only way to measure a business’ performance so that decisions are made not only with financial profit in mind. If we value our planet and humanity (and I think most of us do!) then we have to make at least a start in measuring the Triple Bottle Line.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). How do tragedies shed light on work conditions in garment factories?
Big press interest ensures large companies become more committed to improving working conditions. It should not take tragedies like Rana Plaza to make that happen, but I think it acted as a big wakeup call and catalyst for action.
The Gender Inequality Index (GII) relates to the empowerment of women, gender equality, and international women’s rights. The progress for gender equity is positive. Regressive forces exist in explicit and implicit forms. What seem like some of the explicit and implicit forms observed in personal and professional life to you?
We could write many books about this! Progress on the empowerment of women does continue but not at the rate as I would like to see – certainly not in some cultures. However, the more strong positive female role models there are I would hope to see progress accelerate.
Any women’s rights activist or campaigner hero for you?
Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, Michelle Obama and my aunt.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
Seeing the industry get better. Being inspired by and inspiring others.
Any other work at this time?
Launching a new sustainable fashion brand which I’m very excited about called Re.Sustain
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, you?
Best to email info@mantisworld.com or engage with us on social media
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
It’ll be alright in the end. And if it’s not alright, it’s not the end.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/19
15:21 is a Stockholm-based brand with a love for functional minimalist design. We make everyday essentials – the things you touch and hold the most (lovers aside) – in natural cork.
Tell us about your story – education, prior work, and so on?
I have no prior experience working with fashion. My past working places we’re rectangular and the work monotonous which inspired me to create the creative space which is 15:21.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I’ve always have had a strong passion for creating a sustainable future and fashion. Starting a accessory brand creating cork accessories just seemed like the natural way of integrating my two greatest interests.
What seems like the importance of a (relative to the country) living wage?
I personally believe that sewing clothes is a great first step for people to get out of poverty. For this to be possible, living wages is a necessity. All companies working in the field of fashion must start to take their responsibility to ensure that their suppliers are paying the workers enough.
What makes slow fashion better than fast fashion?
You know how you begin to form an emotional connection to a clothing item you’ve had for ages? That’s slow fashion. Fast fashion clothes just doesn’t have that kind of durability to survive long enough for you to gain any kind of relation with it, and that’s a deal breaker, at least for me.
The Pythagoreans, the Neoplatonists, Aristotle, and the Stoics, William Wilberforce, Baron Erskinecreated the ancient thought about animal rights. Jeremy Bentham, the founder of utilitarianism, discussed the suffering of non-human animals. Peter Singer argues for non-human animal rights too. The Nonhuman Rights Project (NhRP) People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), the Humane Society of the United States (HSUS), and others work to support animals and work to enforce their rights. Some fashion manufacture processes violate animals’ rights. What is the importance of animal rights, especially in an ethical and sustainable fashion context?
The thought of animals being treated badly just for the cause of creating as cheap as possible leather is horrible. I believe that ultimately it’s up to the consumers to change their behaviour and take a stand for animals’ right by purchasing goods produced responsibly. So if you’re considering buying a cheap leather wallet, you should probably just go for cork instead. Nobody want’s bad karma in their pocket.
Climate change represents one of the biggest medium- to long-term threats to human survival in reasonable forms. The Government of Canada, NASA, the David Suzuki Foundation, The Royal Society, The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, and numerous others discuss this. Ethical and sustainable fashion relates to it. The reductions in hydrocarbon production from sustainable materials seem imperative sustain the further deterioration of the atmosphere, the biosphere, and the environment. What seems like the responsibilities of ethical and sustainable fashion companies in the prevention of climate catastrophe?
I’m a big supporter of H&Ms initiative to recycle worn clothes in all of their stores! Since 2013 they have collected enough garments from consumers to produce 150 million million t-shirts. I hope and encourage more companies to involve their customers in creating a more sustainable fashion industry in the near future.
It’s also very important that all companies working with fashion take responsibility of the impacts caused by the value chain. Materials, Working conditions, fair Wages, Fire & building safety, Animal welfare, chemicals, climate & emissions and use of Water are all crucial areas within fashion that generally needs improvement.
The Ethical Fashion Forum developed the Ethical Policy Framework. An ethical policy framework tool for those devoted to enactment of ethical and sustainable purchases, production, and business decisions. What do services such as these perform for the public, consumers, producers, and businesspeople?
These types of initiatives are just great as they connect sustainable brands with consumers wishing to contribute to a better world. They also help businesses like us to find responsible producers.
What is 15:21?
We are a Stockholm-based brand with a love for functional minimalist design. We make everyday essentials – the things you touch and hold the most (lovers aside) – in natural cork.
The concept behind 15:21 is to blend Scandinavian simplicity with nature’s own aesthetics. All our products are made in fine quality Portuguese cork. It’s our belief that nature should be nourished, not exploited. By working with cork, we do exactly that
What inspired the title of the organization?
It all started with a missed train to work.
Arriving at the train station at 15:21, I was a few seconds late but just in time to watch my train to work close its doors and slowly roll away. Instead of feeling frustrated, I had a moment of lucidity where I came to realize how my life was built around routines and my soul-less work. I began to pick up on an old project and started sketching on new ideas.
That’s how 15:21 came about.
What are some of its feature products?
Our collection is currently slim. We’re offering wallets, card holder, passport holder and iPhone cases all made in cork. Keep an eye on us because exciting products are soon to be unveiled.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of 15:21?
The cork we use for our carrying collection is sourced in Braga, Portugal where they also are made. The products are designed in Stockholm.
What is the customer base – the demographics?
We like to describe our customers with one word – conscious.
Child labor and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labor. A few million children in the case of child slavery. According to the Minimum Age Convention (1973), labor before the age of 14, 15, or 16, dependent upon the country, is child labor. The International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights (1966) in Article 7, Article 24(1), Article 24(2), and Article 24(3), the International Covenant on Economic, Social and Cultural Rights (1966) in Article 10(3), The Convention on the Rights of the Child (1989) in Article 2(2), Article 3(1), Article 3(2), and Article 19, the Vienna Declartion and Programme of Action (1993) in Section II (Paragraph 45-48 and 50), and the Protocol to Prevent, Suppress and Punish Trafficking in Persons, especially Women and Children (2000) delineate children’s rights. These stipulations about equality remain violated in the fashion industry, especially the manufacturing sector or the garment industry. How can individuals get the word out about these extreme children’s rights violations?
There are several ways to force manufacturers to do the production in the light of day. I personally believe that short interviews with children working in production of fast fashion clothes on social medias will in the long run have the biggest impact on the consumers.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations, women and children, in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Companies working fashion obviously have the biggest responsibility but anyone can support a better quality of life for workers in the manufacturing sector. By simply demanding slow fashion companies will have to adjust their strategies to stay in demand. I personally believe that companies that take social and environmental aspects into consideration will be most successful in the end.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion
industry by a vast margin of difference at most levels. Why?
I believe that we’re slowly going towards a gender equilibrium in fashion as men becomes more interested in fashion and style.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
The reason for choosing to work with cork besides it being aesthetically pleasing is by using the material incredible direct and indirect effects are made on the environment. For example, trees are never cut down or harmed in the process of sourcing cork. Rather, more trees are planted and the cork forests nourished with increased production and becomes protected as it acquires an economic value. A harvested oak is by law left for 9 years to regrow it’s bark. During this time the tree absorbs up to five times more co2 which has led to Portugal’s cork forests absorbing more than 10 million tons of carbon dioxides annually.
A great personal fulfillment for me would be to play a part in making the fashion industry more conscious.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, you?
I encourage all curious about what we do to contact me at fredrik@1521store.com.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
Consumer awareness is definitely the key in my opinion to solve the social and environmental issues of today’s fashion industry. Therefore, it makes me really excited to find organizations like trusted clothes raising awareness and educating people of the effects caused by fast fashion. I believe that the future is bright for slow fashion as an increasingly amount of people are enlightened of the true cost of suspiciously cheap clothes.
Thank you for your time, Fredrik.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/18
Thomas and Marion founded and own TSHU, an elegant and committed handkerchief. Ethically made in Montreal (Canada), the TSHU handkerchiefs boast unique, bold, colourful designs and a distinctive shape, to make a gesture for the environment – in style! Each hanky is handprinted with silkscreen and hand sown by our skilled seamstresses before being embroidered with our brand – a seal of elegance and commitment – and having its corner neatly folded and sown into place.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
Marion: born in Montreal (Canada) from a French-Canadian family, with roots in Quebec, France and Nova Scotia! Raised in a musical environment, by early music afficionados, with a sister and a few goldfish. Initially French-speaking, disciplined in English (learned fast).
Thomas: born France from a French-Canadian mother and a father born in Argentina in a French family. Raised in the South of France away from everything and moved to Montreal at 11.
Tell us about your story – education, prior work, and so on?
Marion: Creative, passionate and determined, whenever Marion has a new mission, she immediately dives into that new universe and makes it her own. No matter how unlikely the project or ambitious the strategy, no task is too daunting and she tackles everything she handles with contagious enthusiasm. In the past, Marion has managed cultural organizations, worked in communications, has coordinated big and small events as well as been part of teams which have launched large-scale projects. Now, she dreams of changing the world, one handkerchief at a time!
Thomas: Father, step-father, lover, “retired” lawyer and entrepreneur. I’m currently Vice President Revenue and leader in all commercial missions relating to marketing, customer experience and partnerships for Busbud. I’m also co-founder of TSHU, the company that has put handkerchiefs back on the map. I love winning equally as I hate losing. I’ve built powerful teams, generated financing rounds of over $10 million and secured important partnerships on almost all continents.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
Summer 2013, Marion and Thomas travel to Europe to introduce their son to the family abroad and come home with an unusual legacy: Uncle Robert’s old embroidered hankies.
Back in Montreal, Marion and Thomas rediscover the pleasure of cotton handkerchiefs: yes, to relieve their noses, but also to wipe their baby’s cheeks, the water on a bench park for her, the milk froth in the moustache for him.
They start dreaming… Of handkerchiefs, of consumption, of the environment, of the desire to create new with the old. Finally, a vision takes form.
What would happen if the handkerchief had a unique shape? If it was modern, distinctive, even funky? What if a tree could be planted for each handkerchief sold? What if the handkerchief could become a fashion accessory capable of making a difference?
TSHU was born.
What seems like the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
Future generations need a lot more than that but it’s a start. In order for us to build a better world, every step of the value chain needs to be more sustainable. Given the modern importance of how we look, the fashion industry is clearly a huge driver of consumption. The increasing multiplicity of ethical and sustainable companies has to lead the way of the industry. The signs that he cannot go on for long are there.
What seems like the importance of fair trade?
Same thinking – if we want to build a strong tomorrow, our people and our planet have to be taken into consideration, every step of the way! Consumers need to be more exposed to the real value of things.
What seems like the importance of a (relative to the country) living wage?
Egality of chance brings peace to nations.
What makes slow fashion better than fast fashion?
It’s a way of life! Make better choices, invest in quality, not quantity, invest in our people and our planet. It’s not only better, it’s the only way to go if we want to create a better world!
What seems like the responsibilities of ethical and sustainable fashion companies in the prevention of climate catastrophe?
This is a collective responsibility. Among clients, vendors of any industry.
The Brundtland Commission Report described the need for sustainability. In that, we, the human species, need to meet the “needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs” for long-term sustainability. Does this seem correct to you?
Perfect definition.
The Sustainable Apparel Coalition invented The Higg Index. It assesses some products’ sustainability throughout the products’ lifecycle. The European Outdoor Group and the Outdoor Industry Association developed an index of products’ impacts on the environment throughout their lifecycle, the Eco Index. Large regions with serious attempts to implement standards and quantitative analysis of sustainability of products throughout their lifecycle. What seem like the importance of quality tests, or metrics, such as these and others?
In our case, it is rather simple given that our products are by design meant to reduce consumption. There’s a need for fewer standards that are more easily understood by the public. This always needs to be accompanied by great quality of products.
What is TSHU?
Leading the handkerchief’s great comeback. Helping people consume less – and better. Selling high quality stylish and useful hankies. Ethically made in Montreal. Our TSHUs have travelled to some 200 cities in 20 countries and counting. What’s more, for each adopted TSHU, we plant a tree.
What inspired the title of the organization?
Contraction of atchou in French and tissue in English.
What are some of its feature products?
High quality organic hankies with modern designs both for adults and for kids.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
Cotton sateen and lawn.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of TSHU?
Our hankies are made locally in Montreal Canada, for us to ensure of the working conditions.
Water use in production is an issue. What is the importance of reducing excess water use in the production of fashion?
Crucial.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
Yes.
What is the customer base – the demographics?
30-50 years old men and women from North America and Europe. They are eco conscious and are looking for ways to contribute to the environment in style.
Did someone mentor you?
We had a few mentors – yes.
Have you mentored others?
We’re always ready to help others and offer advise from time to time.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
It’s a feel good business. We bring quality products made with love and pride in our city to households. Doing so, we know that our clients’ consumption habits will be changed for the best. What else to ask for? We also decided to not raise any funding for this business in order to remain free. Free of our decisions and free to grow at our own pace.
Any other work at this time?
Yes, we both work for other startups.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, you?
Of course! info@1tshu1tree.com
What seems like the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
Fear of failure.
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
Thomas: time runs and we walk.
Thank you for your time, Marion and Thomas.
You can visit TSHU online at their website.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/17
Thanks for inviting me to talk with you… and thanks for the great work you’re doing up in Canada.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I come to this work in a bit of a nontraditional way— from fashion creative, advertising, and marketing. After 24 years in the industry, as creative director of Vogue Brazil Magazine, years designing the graphic look of New York’s fashion week, and almost 20 years working for the CFDA on Fashion Targets Breast Cancer, the CFDA fashion awards, etc.— I was invited to work with CFDA’s Sustainability Committee to brand, message, market and basically help evolve the program.
Several meetings and a few dozen sustainable fashion events later, I was in Bangladesh at the Rana Plaza disaster site, meeting with and photographing the victims and families. As a Tibetan Buddhist, this was my defining moment— the experience that convinced me that I had to do something about the inhumanity I saw firsthand. Nothing compares with the experience of being face to face with the profound suffering created by the industry I’ve worked in for over two decades. That’s when I realized the magnitude of the crises that the industry faces and that I needed to do something.
After returning home, I started to see that the industry lacked motivation to make broad and sweeping changes. From the questions asked at panel discussions, lectures and talks, I started to recognize that the industry lacked basic information. I started to see profound confusion around the issues. I started to see the proliferation of greenwashing and manipulation, of denial and indifference— and after meeting and getting to know the amazing people and organizations at the forefront of the valuable work across the industry, I started to see that what was needed was motivation, marketing, information and clarity— and I started to see that this was much more than an American crisis, it was a global crisis. So I started working with Loomstate’s owner and CFDA member Scott Hahn and the CFDA’s Executive VP Lisa Smilor, and with the financial support of the CFDA, I began the process of founding Responsibility in Fashion, an organization that— rather than focusing on one issue, on measurement or on certification— focuses on the big picture with the goal of motivating the industry to get together and raise the collective ‘standard of responsibility.’
What is Responsibility in Fashion?
Responsibility in Fashion is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to raising the standard of responsibility in the global fashion industry through collaboration, innovation, inspiration and open-source information.
What inspired the title of the organization?
We spent a lot of time in the naming process. After taking a long look at the existing “ethical fashion/sustainable fashion/eco-fashion community,” we saw that over the years that the sector grew, its naming and terminology had grown into a bit of a monster. Sustainable fashion, ethical fashion and eco-fashion compose 3 different parts of one very big and complex crisis facing today’s global fashion industry. We needed a word that can do more than embrace all 3 parts of the crisis (sustainability, ethics and ecology), but one that goes far beyond just talking about the problems— a word that inspires a call-to-action— a word that people immediately (and emotionally) understand that they have a part to play in the solution— and that word is Responsibility.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). How do tragedies shed light on work conditions in garment factories?
Unfortunately, it took Rana Plaza to draw our collective attention to the problem of unsafe working conditions, and that attention then exposed several of the industry’s other problems. But in the 3 years since the disaster, press coverage has slowed to a trickle, only 7 of the estimated 3500 factories in Bangladesh have actually completed necessary their corrective action plans, more than 40% of Bangladesh’s 3500 garment factories have seen no reform in any form— and the minimum wage, which the vast majority of Bangladeshi garment workers receive, is still only at one-fifth of a living wage. So you can’t help asking yourself, “How many Rana Plazas would we have to see before the industry really takes action?” That’s exactly why we started Responsibility in Fashion.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations, women and children, in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Regarding brands and the industry: We know that nothing is going to change in the industry until people start doing something… and they can’t do anything unless they know what to do. So, addressing that issue became our first program. We heard the same question asked at every lecture, talk, and panel discussion we went to— “Where do we go for basic information on how to start?” And every time, at every event, the question was answered with basically a shoulder-shrug. So that became our first initiative— to create our Responsibility Toolkit, with essential information, resources and steps. Now, there’s a place on the internet where the entire industry can get the basic information they need, links to resources, organizations and consultants and steps, free of charge, no matter their financial means.
Next, we’re working on several programs— one with the CFDA/Lexus Fashion Initiative to reduce the waste and improve the responsibility of retail packaging, and we’re starting a collaboration program with the NYU Stern School of Business on a press and outreach program.
Regarding consumers: we’re on that— We have the beginnings of a great solution for helping to empower responsible brands that want to connect with consumers.
The sister of the one of the many victims of the Rana Plaza disaster who’s bodies were never recovered, who still frequent the site hoping to get information — and one of the thousands of fashion labels that still litter the site. Rana Plaza Disaster Site, Savar, Bangladesh. Photo: Robert Bergmann
Any other work at this time?
I’m the creative director of my design firm MPAKT and I’m also in the process of starting a home and personal care brand.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Check out our Network of Industry Thought Leaders. Basically leaders in the sector.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, you?
Through our website.
What seems like the greatest struggle in business for you?
Finding enough time in a day to get everything done.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Critical Links
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/11/18
Internationally renowned healthcare, it is a privilege and right Canadian citizens take for granted in many instances. In the province of British Columbia, the government stands for a secular province.
The control of public health care facilities, and the funding for those facilities, are to be grounded in a secular foundation. Many public health care providers are religious at the root.
Based on beliefs systems coming from “holy scripture” and religious authorities, at times, the religious publicly funded health care providers will refuse provisions of reproductive, end of life, and some other medical services.
For example, in British Columbia, there are eight publicly funded hospitals administered by Roman Catholic Church bodies. About 1/3 of all hospitals in Ontario are administered by the Roman Catholic Church.
The morning after pill is not even available in Catholic hospitals as well as outright refusal for ectopic pregnancies in an emergency situation, which is typically an emergency. Registered nurses and medical doctors have to sign an agreement that they will follow the tenants of the faith or religion of the hospital, too.
This must stop.
A secular health care system for all will satisfy the need for safe and equitable access to healthcare services, where the secular can choose to access things such as the morning after pill and end-of-life services; and those that have religious tenets against them do not have to. This is the only fair basis for a secular healthcare system for all.
to sign this petition, please visit https://www.change.org/p/honourable-adrian-dix-secular health-care-in-bc
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightjournal.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012–2022. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Critical Links
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/11/18
The Government of British Colombia has worked to act according to the principle of “public money for public schools, private money for private schools” for the province. There is a petition in order to urge the British Colombia government to continue to enact this policy (Center for Inquiry Canada, 2017).
That is, the cessation of the provision of funding for independent schools in addition to an amendment to the Independent Schools Act (Government of British Columbia, 2017).
For separate and independent schools in a democratic society to exist, whether by class, socioeconomic status, or religion, these undermine the very principles upon which the province of British Columbia and the country of Canada stand with respect to democratic values.
This petition is a public call for the re-instantiation of the democratic values this country upholds. This recent policy undermines and harms the public school system. This petition is a call to change that.
To sign this petition, please visit https://www.change.org/p/honourable-rob-fleming-public money-for-public-schools-in-bc
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightjournal.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012–2022. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Critical Links
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/11/18
The Centre for Inquiry has a new branch in Victoria, BC. The members there have started two on-line petitions, calling for an end to special treatment for religion in the provincial school system and healthcare system.
Petition for a secular school system: https://www.change.org/p/honourable-rob-fleming-public money-for-public-schools-in-bc
Petition for secular healthcare: https://www.change.org/p/honourable-adrian-dix-secular-health care-in-bc
Everyone is invited to sign the petitions to show their support, whether or not they are residents of British Columbia.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightjournal.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012–2022. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Critical Links
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2020/04/09
One of the most peculiar, and comprehensible, sources of moral opprobrium throughout human history is sex and sexuality, especially as regards female sexual functions and sexual pleasure. In Indonesia, the case remains much the same as in other parts of human history. Perhaps this can be seen as history as usual with an Indonesian flavour.
According to CTV News , Indonesia is hard at work trying to ban gay and premarital sex so as to reinvigorate the historical trend of condemnation of non-religiously sanctified sexuality and non-heterosexual sexuality. It’s important to note, as many of you probably know, Indonesia is the country with the largest Muslim population. Andreas Harsono, senior Indonesia researcher at Human Rights Watch, said, “Indonesia’s draft criminal code is disastrous not only for women and religious and gender minorities, but for all Indonesians.”
Al Jazeera described the nature of the proposed bill as implying that those who have extramarital and premarital sex could face a sentence of six to 12 months’ imprisonment. The president of Indonesia, Joko Widodo, thinks the proposed bill should have more review. Public outcry over the new penal code created the basis for Widodo proposing the delay of the parliamentary vote.
“ After hearing from various groups with objections to aspects of the law, I’ve decided that some of it needs further deliberation… The justice minister has been told to convey my views to parliament and that ratification of the criminal code should be postponed and not passed,” Widodo said in a televised press briefing.
Penalties under the proposed additions to the law could also be given for insulting the dignity of the president, for offering or even simply showing contraception to minors (those under the age of 18), and could also include four years in jail for an illegal abortion “in the absence of a medical emergency or rape.”
Papang Hidayat, Amnesty International Indonesia’s Research Manager, stated , “This is a setback… Religious values as a source of lawmaking has now reached the national level — that’s worrying.”
This article appears in the April 2020 version of Critical Links.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Critical Links
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2020/09/30
There have been some recent reports about the possibility of life on Venus. Is this an empirically verified or confirmed assertion from some recent news reportage? First things first: definitions. The question is not necessarily, “What is life?”, but rather, who studies that which has been defined as “life” on planets other than Earth? Those folks are called astrobiologists.
Astrobiologists have looked for Earth-like planets as obvious life-harbouring candidates because the form of “life” as we know it comes from Earth. However, astrobiologists have also been working for some time on hypothetical scenarios outside of the N of 1 seen in the carbon-based life on Earth. Recent reports seem to suggest that there is a potential signature of life on Venus, our very non-Earth-like neighbour.
The key points of the reports, including those in Scientific American, centre on the detection of phosphine, “at an altitude where temperatures and pressures are similar to those here on Earth at sea level.” A detection of phosphine means a potential “biosignature,” literally a “signature of life.”
The alternative is an “exotic” chemical reaction mimicking the signifiers of life without, in fact, originating from the processes of some form of microbes. After some preliminary research, Jane Greaves, an astronomer at the University of Cardiff in the U.K., and colleagues found more phosphine than expected, supporting the case for life on Venus.
Is there life on Venus? Maybe. Pete Worden, executive director of the nonprofit Breakthrough Initiatives, said, “We have what could be a biosignature, and a plausible story about how it got there… The next step is to do the basic science needed to thoroughly investigate the evidence and consider how best to confirm and expand on the possibility of life.”
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Critical Links
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2020/10/26
As of as of October 25, 2020, over 9.6 million Canadians have been tested for the coronavirus with over 216,000 cases, over 24,700 active cases, and 9,900 deaths (data from the Government of Canada). Everyone knows the general recommendations coming from the Canadian Government, from their health authorities, and… from their grandmothers — i.e., wear a mask, wash your hands, physically distance at least 2 metres (6 feet) or more, etc.
This article focuses less on the obvious and more on the interesting myths, which have arisen in the time of the coronavirus. These resources come more comprehensively from the World Health Organization. There was misinformation about the efficacy of hydroxychloroquine for helping clinically with COVID-19. It does not. It helps with “malaria, lupus erythematosus, and rheumatoid arthritis.” Current evidence suggests the drug does not reduce deaths of hospitalized COVID-19 patients.
COVID-19, the disease, is caused by a virus (SARS-CoV-2), and not by a bacterium. It is part of the Coronaviridae family of viruses. This means antibiotics do not work for COVID-19, because antibiotics do not work against viruses. Antibiotics can be recommended by a provider of healthcare if some complications involve a bacterial infection alongsideCOVID-19. No current drugs have been licensed as effective in prevention or treatment of COVID-19.
The World Health Organization states, “The prolonged use of medical masks can be uncomfortable. However, it does not lead to CO2 intoxication nor oxygen deficiency. While wearing a medical mask, make sure it fits properly and that it is tight enough to allow you to breathe normally. Do not re-use a disposable mask and always change it as soon as it gets damp.” (However, for people wearing disposable masks in low risk environments, it is reasonable to reuse them until they are no longer functional.)
An important fact about COVID-19, as indicated by the above-mentioned statistics from the Government of Canada: Many die, but most patients of COVID-19 recover. Here’s a fact, too: Drinking alcohol does not, in any way, protect from COVID-19. It, in fact, can be dangerous: The stuff we drink isn’t strong enough to kill the virus, and the stuff that kills the virus can kill us if we drink it.
This one was simply too odd when I came across it. Some think COVID-19 can be spread via houseflies. There is no evidence to suggest this, at this time. It cannot be spread by mosquito bites either. Cold weather and snow don’t kill it; hot baths don’t prevent it; hot and humid climates don’t kill COVID-19. Exposure to the sun or 25-degree Celsius weather will not protect from COVID-19. Bleach taken orally — and, presumably, rectally/anally — will not cure COVID-19. It is “extremely dangerous.” (Only attempt if you intend candidacy for a Darwin Award.)
“Do not under any circumstance spray or introduce bleach or any other disinfectant into your body. These substances can be poisonous if ingested and cause irritation and damage to your skin and eyes,” the World Health Organization warned. “Bleach and disinfectant should be used carefully to disinfect surfaces only. Remember to keep chlorine (bleach) and other disinfectants out of reach of children.”
Mainly, as the fact of the matter, COVID-19 spreads via droplets from coughing, sneezing, and speaking. It can also spread from touching surfaces that are contaminated before someone then touches their eyes, nose, or mouth.
Lastly, there are no known mechanisms by which 5G mobile networks spread COVID-19.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Critical Links
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2020/11/26
If you want to murder someone with an illegitimate excuse, then a decent manner in which to do so is the excuse of the State, as such, whether secular-authoritarian or theocratic.
Navid Afkari was executed. Afkari was a wrestler accused of murder who had “international appeals for him to be spared.” In the midst of anti-government protests in 2018, he was accused of killing a security guard. Amnesty International considered the “secret” execution a “travesty of justice.”
Amnesty International reported, “Before his secret execution Navid Afkari, 27, was subjected to a shocking catalogue of human rights violations and crimes, including enforced disappearance; torture and other ill-treatment, leading to forced ‘confessions’; and denial of access to a lawyer and other fair trial guarantees.”
Afkari was searching for an opportunity to have a “fair trial” to “prove his innocence,” according to Diana Eltahawy, Amnesty International’s Deputy Regional Director for the Middle East and North Africa. Afkari argued that he was tortured into making a confession. Afkari said, “If I am executed, I want you to know that an innocent person, even though he tried and fought with all his strength to be heard, was executed.”
He was hanged in the southern city of Shiraz. Afkari was prevented from seeing family before his death, his lawyer said. The World Players Association (WPA), which represents 85,000 athletes around the globe, called for a stop to the execution, deeming Afkari “unjustly targeted.” The WPA argues the targeting was based on anti-government protest participation. They further argued, before the execution of Afkari on September 12, that Iran should be expelled from world sport.
“Given the impunity which prevails in Iran, we urge the international community, including UN human rights bodies and EU member states, to take strong action through public and private interventions,” stated Eltahaway. “We deplore the Iranian authorities’ repeated use of the death penalty, which has earned it the shameful status of consistently being among the world’s most prolific executioners. There is no justification for the death penalty, which is the ultimate cruel, inhuman and degrading punishment, and we urge the Iranian authorities to abolish it.”
There were calls in support of the late wrestler before and after the execution from American President Donald Trump and the International Olympic Committee, and others on social media. The punishments by the Iranian regime extended to Navid’s brothers, Vahid and Habib, with 57 years in prison and 27 years in prison, respectively, “in the same case.” This is according to various human rights activists in the country, as reported by the BBC.
Thus, this mid-September, Iran lost a national wrestling champion due to an execution by state authorities.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Critical Links
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2020/12/30
Women around the world have been increasingly vocal, alongside many men, and rightfully so, about the injustices they face. Often, it comes tied to some theocratic leader or political ideology bent on suppression of equal rights for women. All the while giving airy, arid, and empty statements about the equality of women, while lacking the substance to show for all the bluster (and blunder).
#WhiteWednesday or White Wednesday is one such manner of public protest. The founder of My Stealthy Freedom, Masih Alinejad, began White Wednesday in May of 2017. My Stealthy Freedom began on May 5 of 2014. In this, #WhiteWednesday is connected to My Stealthy Freedom as one of its outgrowths. Both are forms of public protest against the compulsory hijab law in Iran. Its surface manifestation is in the presentation of white headscarves or white pieces of cloth.
Before the 1979 Islamic revolution, many Iranian women wore clothing in the Western style of the time. However, with the imposition of Ayatollah Khomeini, as reported by the BBC in 2017, “Women were not only forced to cover their hair in line with a strict interpretation of Islamic law on modesty, but also to stop using make-up and to start wearing knee-length manteaus. More than 100,000 women and men took to the streets to protest against the law in 1979, and opposition to it has never gone away.”
Since May of 2014, women have been submitting photos and videos of defiance against the theocratic and rather patriarchal structures in Iran without the head coverings, women taking control of their individual lives, expressing solidarity in media to one another, and, in turn, inspiring other women too. In 2017, Alinejad said, “When I expressed my concern about [one contributor’s] safety, she replied that she would rather jeopardize her job than continue living under this oppression that the Iranian women have endured for the last 38 years.”
It has affected the cultures of other countries too. Even in Afghanistan or other countries where it is not mandatory in accordance with the law to wear a headscarf, many women and girls can be forced to wear one within the family. As you can see, the main point is about the individual freedom of choice of the woman to wear the headscarf, or not, rather than the headscarf itself, which becomes an imposition either by law or by familial bond(age) bound to custom.
As the White Wednesday campaign continues as an extension of My Stealthy Freedom, we can support those efforts in solidarity, as the rights for some already won are merely starting to be won by others.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Critical Links
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2021/01/28
Some marked moments of science show the true beauty of international collaboration through looking upward to the sky and outward from ourselves, especially in empirical evidence showing things previously only imagined. Recently, there was some news as to the nature of the most powerful gravitational wells in the universe: black holes. In a distant galaxy, at its center, there sits a gigantic black hole 40,000,000,000 kilometres across. It was photographed with a “network of eight telescopes across the world.” The details of the photography were published in The Astrophysical Journal Letters.
The network of telescopes is collectively called the Event Horizon Telescope or EHT. The original experiment was proposed by Professor Heino Falcke of Radboud University (Netherlands). The galaxy for this monstrous black hole is M87. Falcke said, “What we see is larger than the size of our entire Solar System… It has a mass 6.5 billion times that of the Sun. And it is one of the heaviest black holes that we think exists. It is an absolute monster, the heavyweight champion of black holes in the Universe.”
Prominent in the image is what one might describe as a ring of fire surrounding the circularity of the black hole. This halo surrounding the black hole is caused by gas becoming superheated and falling into M87’s black hole. The light from the bright halo surrounding the central galactic black hole of M87 is “brighter than all the billions of other stars in the galaxy combined.” This brightness permits ease of visibility to the EHT.
The point where the inner edge of the bright halo becomes dark — this is when the superheated gas enters the black hole. “Although they are relatively simple objects, black holes raise some of the most complex questions about the nature of space and time, and ultimately of our existence… It is remarkable that the image we observe is so similar to that which we obtain from our theoretical calculations. So far, it looks like Einstein is correct once again,” Dr. Ziri Younsi of University College London stated.
The reason for the darkness on the outer circular edge of the halo comes from the lack of light emitted for sufficient brightness to be picked up by the EHT. The inner edge becomes dark because the light from the superheated gas cannot escape the M87 black hole, or any black hole for that matter, because a “black hole is a region of space[-time] from which nothing, not even light, can escape.” The black hole itself is unseen because the photons emitted by the superheated gas, which provide light for sight, become trapped and thus unseen in the gravitational well.
As stated by the Jet Propulsion Laboratory at the California Institute of Technology, “Learning about mysterious structures in the universe provides insight into physics and allows us to test observation methods and theories, such as Einstein’s theory of general relativity. Massive objects deform spacetime in their vicinity, and although the theory of general relativity has directly been proven accurate for smaller-mass objects, such as Earth and the Sun, the theory has not yet been directly proven for black holes and other regions containing dense matter.”
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Critical Links
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2021/02/24
“If anyone in this audience believes God made his body and your body is dirty, the fault lies with the manufacturer.”
—Lenny Bruce
Emerald Bensadoun in Global News published an article entitled “Canada just tabled legislation to ban conversion therapy. Why is it necessary in 2020?” It’s a good query. The more fundamental question is: “Was it ever necessary?” As it is not supported by scientific evidence, as Dr. Darrel Ray of the Secular Therapy Project and Recovering from Religion suggests, it might be better thought of as analogous to sex addiction.
The Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders (DSM-5) is the standard by which mental disorders are catalogued and given proper psychological reference at this time. The latest edition was published in 2013. The sexual addiction label was rejected in 2013 in spite of the proposal for inclusion. The DSM-5 does not incorporate “sex addict” or “sexual addiction.” Thus, as Dr. Ray noted to me, his idea of sexual addiction is as a theological construct within Christian counselling, presented as if it were a psychological construct.
“There’s tons of evidence that the most religious people self-identify the most as ‘sex addicts.’ Not to mind, there is no such thing as sex addiction. There’s no way to define it. I have argued with atheists that have been atheists for 20 years who say that they are sex addicts. Help me understand, how did you get that diagnosis? I do not care if you look at porn once or twice an hour. You are still not a sex addict. So, get over that.” He further stated, “You may have other issues. You may have some compulsions. You may have some fear of driving the issue. But it almost always comes down to early childhood religious training… Sometimes, you can go an entire lifetime with a guilt, a shame, a fear, rooted in religion.”
When I reflect on the literal non-sense, lack of sense, or empirical evidence, for conversion therapy, it breaks my heart. Why should non-heterosexual peoples have to be subjected to the non-scientific whims of the popular religious culture or the sub-culture of the religious devoted to the immoral practice of conversion therapy? The Government of Canada introduced legislation for the amendment of the Criminal Code in order to ban conversion therapy, which becomes a victory for the LGBTI community in Canada, in part.
In fact, the Minister of Justice and Attorney General of Canada, David Lametti, stated, “Conversion therapy is a cruel practice that can lead to life-long trauma, particularly for young people… It sends a demeaning and degrading message… [and] is premised on a lie.” This is important in its being candid. This is a point of unification of purpose for both the scientific skeptic and the humanist communities based on their core values, because of the violation of proper science in therapeutic practice and the violation of fundamental human rights, respectively.
Five new offenses would be added to the Criminal Code, including “causing a minor to undergo conversion therapy, removing a minor from Canada to undergo conversion therapy abroad, causing a person to undergo conversion therapy against their will, profiting from providing conversion therapy and advertising an offer to provide conversion therapy,” according to Global News.
Bensadoun reported that the legislation would permit courts to seize advertisements of conversion therapy or to “order those who placed the advertisements to remove them.” This point may be contentious more than the others with freedom of expression and the Charter of Rights and Freedoms.
Indeed, this has been a Liberal campaign promise. Their website states:
Conversion therapy is a scientifically discredited practice that targets vulnerable LGBTQ2 Canadians in an attempt to change their sexual orientation or gender identity. There is international consensus in the medical community that conversion therapy is not founded in science and does not work.
To ensure that no one is subjected to this practice, we will move forward on our promise to work with provinces and territories to end conversion therapy in Canada, including making amendments to the Criminal Code that will prohibit this harmful and scientifically disproven practice, especially against minors.
Ontario, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward Island have banned conversion therapy; in other provinces, Vancouver, Edmonton, and Calgary, have as well. Manitoba made a statementagainst the practice. Thusly, this is the tide of national history with much inertia, where the vector is more towards this federal ban rather than not.
It seems like no accident that one of the communities’ victims comes from Langley, British Columbia, Canada, in the article by Bensadoun, where the infamous fundamentalist Trinity Western University is hosted: the largest private university in Canada. One of the accounts is of “Canadian Harper Perrin, who staved off efforts to change their social orientation at a church in Langely [sic], B.C.” Perrin reported on the attempts to change the ways in which they “walked and talked, making them very mindful of their body and making sure they lived a ‘masculine expression.’”
All this is perfectly clownish and silly, and degrading, except for the fact that this is truly happening rather than in some comic book or piece of fiction. People who I know and love — and I’m sure for most of you reading this it’s the same context — are suffering and are being unduly discriminated against, based on false notions and quack practitioners of faith-driven non-science. Bensadoun stated, “Faith-based organizations like the Alliance for Therapeutic Choice and Scientific Integrity (formerly known as NARTH) still exist in Canada, and a majority of them have offices that operate in multiple provinces. It provides ‘Sexual Attraction Fluidity Exploration in Therapy,’ ironically abbreviated ‘SAFE-T.’”
In some other previous interviews, I have come across the stories of suffering, sometimes of triumph. Take, for example, the case of Peter Gajdics who is an award-winning writer I interviewed in 2018. He published The Inheritance of Shame: A Memoir in May of 2017. His triumph came from publicly speaking a truth deemed uncomfortable. It probably saved his life. He was subdued and subjected to a 6-year ordeal of conversion therapy. Vancouver City banned it; British Columbia did not.
Gajdics provided a succinct statement as to the ideational constructs undergirding conversion therapy and its associated falsities:
“Conversion therapy,” also known as “reparative therapy” or even “sexual orientation change efforts” (SOCE), really took hold in direct response to the burgeoning gay rights movement of the early 1970’s, particularly after the American Psychiatric Association’s 1973 decision to declassify homosexuality from its list of mental disorders in the Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders. As gay liberation exploded over the next several years and gay people carved out their own place in history, taking great strides toward visibility and self-worth, in some cases legal vindication, the religious right advanced its own ideology of being “ex-gay” — that it was possible to sort of “pray away the gay.” Personally, I don’t really like this term, “pray away the gay,” since I think it reduces what is actually a traumatic experience to the sound of a joke, and the process of attempting to strip away a person’s core self and “convert” them into something that they’re not is anything but humorous: lives have been destroyed and even lost in the name of this kind of ignorance and outright hatred. Ultimately, there was nothing new to any of this; what we call “homosexuals” or even “gay” people today have been victims to all sorts of strange methods and ideologies to help “change” them, or at least to help conceal them, over the centuries. In the 20th century alone we’ve seen aversion therapy, castrations and lobotomies, inhumane use of psychotropics, and of course forced psychoanalysis as a common “cure.”
“Inhumane” seems like the coda to this long, long history of injustices carried forward by faith-based standards of thoughts and cultural thrust. Bensadoun’s article covers some more cases and organizations relevant to this subject matter for those interested. Canada, if it moves forward with the transition of the bill into a law, can become a comprehensive and progressive global leader in these efforts of the advancement of empirically informed public policy and the protection of the fundamental human rights of LGBTI people in our society.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Critical Links
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2021/04/29
I was a religious zealot that hurt people. People said they attempted suicide over me and the things I said to them. People, I know, are in therapy because of me. Why would I want that to continue?— McKrae Game
When irony strikes in life, it can strike while the metal is hot, for the betterment of the rights of the accused, and to the advancement of a culture of critical thinking. Mahita Gajanan in Time described the story of McKrae Game who is a former conversion therapy advocate.
Game founded a South Carolina conversion therapy program. He is its former leader. Former because he came out of the closet; he’s gay. At 51, Game came out two years after being fired by the Hope for Wholeness program, which was founded in 1999. The explicit and sole purpose of the conversion therapy program founded by Game was to rid non-heterosexual people of their sexual orientation identity, which comes with the hidden premise of this as a lifestyle or not something innate to the human being.
This can be all fun and games to popular freethought groups. However, as noted by Game, these institutions, religious orientations, ideological backings, individual biases, and the like, lead to people attempting suicide based on “things… said to them” or enter into “therapy” because of it. People die because of this garbage. That’s why it matters to speak frankly and to act forcefully against it. I’m certain many people reading this are sick of hearing about it, maybe even know individuals in their lives impacted by it.
Game, in an article by the Post and Courier, said, “Conversion therapy is not just a lie, but it’s very harmful… Because it’s false advertising.” In the course of the career for Hope for Wholeness, he talked about sexual attraction to men while struggling with gay pornography. In November, 2017, he was fired. Game argues the pornography was the reason for the firing. He was “devastated” and “humiliated.” Mental health trauma and thoughts of suicide are linked to “attempts at changing a sexual orientation or gender identity.” Approximately 700,000 LGBTQ adults in the United States have received the discredited practice, based on the Williams Institute published in 2018.
The American Medical Association and American Psychological Association discredit conversion therapy; therefore, conversion therapy is not, by definitional status of two legitimate organizations, a therapy, and does not, in fact, convert. Its title does nothing of the former and fails legitimacy tests on the latter.
Bill C-6 has been introduced in Canada to ban conversion therapy, with particular attention to protecting minors.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Critical Links
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2021/04/27
GAMAAN — the Group for Analyzing and Measuring Attitudes in Iran — conducted a survey on the attitudes of Iranians towards religion. It was done between June 6th and 21st of 2020. Over 50,000 respondents took part in the survey.
Respondents were based out of Iran mostly (about 90 percent), literate, and above the age of 19, while having “95% credibility level and credibility intervals of 5%” for the survey. Looking at religion taps into some associated political concepts. One of the more presumptuous ideas about Iran is that it is entirely a nation of people who believe in a supernatural, governing, designing, and maintaining, entity: God.
Seventy-eight percent of Iranians believe in God, with less than half of that believing in an afterlife (37%), heaven and hell (30%), jinns (26%), and a coming saviour (26%). Twenty percent do not believe in a God, an afterlife, heaven and hell, jinns, and a coming saviour. Sixty percent of Iranians report not praying, and 40 percent vary in their frequency (devotion) to the level of praying, “among whom over 27% reported praying five times a day.”
GAMAAN reported, “While 32% of the population identifies as Shi’ite Muslim, around 9% identify as atheist, 8% as Zoroastrian, 7% as spiritual, 6% as agnostic, and 5% as Sunni Muslim. Others stated that they identify with or follow Sufi mysticism, humanism, Christianity, the Baha’i faith, or Judaism, among other worldviews. Around 22% identified with none of the above.”
Indeed, half of Iranians, based on the survey, report losing religion from personal life. Forty-one percent report their religious beliefs were stable throughout their lives, while six percent changed “from one religious orientation to another.” About 6 in 10 Iranians come from a family who were religious believers in God and approximately 3 in 10 have a believing but not religious family. Less than 3 in 100 (not a typo) grow up or are raised in an anti-religious home.
Sixty-eight percent believe that religious prescriptions should be separate from state legislation; secularism appears as a fundamental desire to most Iranians. Only 14 percent think the laws of the country should be governing religious prescriptions, in “accord” with one another. Further, “71% hold the opinion that religious institutions should be responsible for their own funding. On the other hand, 10% think that all religious organizations, irrespective of their faith, should receive government support, while over 3% say only Islamic institutions are entitled to such benefits,” GAMAAN stated.
Around 4 in 10 Iranians believe religions should have the right to proselytize with only four percent believing in the exclusive right for Muslims. Another approximately 4 in 10 believed in a blank ban on religious proselytizing across the board. Fifty-six percent wanted secular education or did not want their children to have religious education. As GAMAAN reports, “58% said they do not believe in the hijab (Islamic veil covering the hair) altogether. Around 72% opposed the compulsory hijab, while 15% insist on the legal obligation to wear the hijab in public.”
To the nightlife and drinking culture of Iran, there is “legally enforced alcohol temperance.” However, thirty-five percent of Iranians drink “occasionally or regularly” and 56 percent do not drink alcohol at all.
Check out the full report here.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Critical Links
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2020/02/11
The movement for human rights continues in an asynchronous and bumpy progression forward more than backward. In this progression, we can see regional and national differences. Some regions regress while others progress; same for nations. One of the more noteworthy cases is the increase in equal rights for the LGBTQ community. (Note: The UN has an LGBTI Core Group , so the international human rights body’s language will be used here.) Asia has had some progression in the human rights sphere here.
Taiwanese society and culture became an important, and in fact unprecedented, example of the advancement of the rights of the LGBTQ community. Taiwan was the first country in Asia to legalize same-sex marriage . In 2017, the constitutional court of the island ruled that the prohibition against same-sex couples marrying amounted to a violation of equal rights and personal freedom. The sexual orientation of individual Taiwanese citizens was ruled an innate or “immutable characteristic that is resistant to change.”
The President of Taiwan, Tsai Ing-wen, requested the Ministry of Justice develop a legal framework in light of the changes in 2017. Three bills were passed in 2019 with majority support by the leading Democratic Progressive Party of Taiwan. The most progressive bill was approved by a 66 to 27 majority. Of the three bills, it was the only one using the term “marriage” in response to same-sex partnerships or relationships.
This bill was part of the political campaigning platform of 2016. President Ing-wen pulled through for the LGBTQ community in Taiwan, set an example for the Asian region, and promoted — without this terminology — humanist and humanistic values, and human rights for a traditionally ill-treated collective: lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, and intersex people. Ing-wen tweeted, “Good morning Taiwan. Today, we have a chance to make history & show the world that progressive values can take root in an East Asian society. Today, we can show the world that #LoveWins.”
The bills went into effect on May 24, 2019.
This article appears in the February 2020 version of Critical Links.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Critical Links
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2020/03/25
Canadian society, since its inception, has placed faith-based organizations or religious institutions on a privileged or special pedestal, where the emphasis existed on the dominant Christian religion and the domineering denomination of Roman Catholicism followed by Protestantism. If you’re looking to question this dominant position and fundamental tenets in a critical manner, then you should be ready for predictable backlash and other consequences. These questions, of course, have been asked of the Christian faith in Canada over and over. Slowly and in increments — generation by generation — the hold of Christianity on the culture has attenuated.
Pew Research, on July 27, 2013, wrote, “Canada’s Changing Religious Landscape,” explaining an ongoing trend of the decline of religion in Canada. People question quietly; leave churches; and become more open in freethought and naturalistic perspectives on the world. The Globe and Mail describes this, rather dramatically, as a “battle for Christianity in Canada,” as if reading Professor Kenneth Miller’s argument for the “battle for America’s soul.”
Nonetheless, the numbers tell the tale of a decline in the amount of believers in Canadian society as a proportion of Canadian citizenry. In fact, one of the stabilization forces for the numbers of faithful citizens in Canada, in spite of the declines, comes from the immigration of more religious people. In fact, in Christianity Today, Gary Nelson, President and CEO of Tyndale University College and Seminary in Toronto, said that churches need to reintroduce themselves “as a place, as a possibility, and as a neighborhood impact, as opposed to a place people ‘attend’ or ‘go.’ ”
This attempt to rebrand stems from a worrisome decline in church numbers, leading to burdensome costs for maintenance. Over time, fewer Canadian dollars in the collection plates, and rising prices on fixing old buildings, forces churches to close down. The issue is finances and economics, spurred by what seems to be a lowering of religious devotion.
In the next decade, the projection is that 9,000 churches will close because of the two-factor problem of fewer believers and rising costs. “As of 2009, there were 27,601 buildings for worship, training or promotion owned by religious organizations in Canada, a statistic found buried inside a Natural Resources Canada energy audit.” This places the 9,000 as an important comparative number.
From a centuries-long perspective of the narrative of Canadian history, we live in the midst of a phase change in Canadian religious life and demographics with consequences for all facets of Canadian culture and political life because religion, Christian religion, “since its inception,” has pervaded every facet of the country.
Times they change.
This article appears in the March 2020 version of Critical Links.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Critical Links
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2020/06/30
Human rights violations and breaches of secularism and international law on small scales remain problems. Violations on large scales inflicted wholesale upon victimized and, often, defenceless peoples is tragic, violent, and immediate, even spanning decades into long-term effects of the entire lives of most of the survivors. They may never return to some semblance of normalcy in the dark and bloody tragedy brought forth from war. I see no reason to prevaricate here: people-groups at immediate risk of death, individually and collectively.
One such case in the current moment is the Rohingya, a Muslim minority with a millennia-long history in Myanmar. As Radio Free Asia has reported about the plight of this minority, “Thousands of members of the group were killed during the violence, and more than 740,000 others escaped across the border, where they now live in sprawling displacement camps in southeastern Bangladesh.” Six thousand refugees exist in a “no-man’s land” between Bangladesh and Myanmar.
The Rohingya amount to an in-between ethnic and religious minority with nowhere to call home now. External support structures can help them. In fact, they exist in large numbers. No matter the good principles, reportage, calls to action, and acts of large NGOs and INGOs, and the largest bureaucratic organization in the world, the United Nations (UN), they are big and unwieldy enough to make mistakes.
Human Rights Watch has called for the end of arbitrary travel and other restrictions on the Rohingya. The Rohingya refugees have been facing difficulties after returning to Myanmar. Important as a backdrop, hundreds of thousands of Rohingya left Myanmar. It is based on a military crackdown on the Rakhine state. These are real victims forced to flee life-threatening circumstances.
As Al-Jazeera has reported, “For the first time, they were meeting representatives from the UN and international NGOs tasked with providing education to about half a million Rohingya refugee children living in camps in Cox’s Bazar, Bangladesh. Minutes of the meeting obtained by Al Jazeera, show how the community leaders questioned the officials about the slow effort to give refugees formal education, the absence of a Myanmar curriculum in the camps, and the lack of consultation with the community.”
Some are asking serious questions about the lack of access to education. Typically, the idea is to provide an education bound to the nationality of the group, of the refugees. This means an education that the Rohingya could have expected in Rakhine state or in Myanmar as a whole. With some of this botched by the UN and other organizations, this is where there are serious questions asked of the UN and other organizations about failures in the implementation of the aforementioned principles of the organizations, as human institutions and then answering for the failures.
The problem with these refugees is threefold: the fleeing from military enforcement, the size of them in the hundreds of thousands, and the denial of the fundamental human rights as citizens, as Muslims, and as human beings. The pain and suffering from ethnic and religious persecution need to be heard.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Centre for Inquiry Canada
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2020/09/30
There have been some recent reports about the possibility of life on Venus. Is this an empirically verified or confirmed assertion from some recent news reportage? First things first: definitions. The question is not necessarily, “What is life?”, but rather, who studies that which has been defined as “life” on planets other than Earth? Those folks are called astrobiologists.
Astrobiologists have looked for Earth-like planets as obvious life-harbouring candidates because the form of “life” as we know it comes from Earth. However, astrobiologists have also been working for some time on hypothetical scenarios outside of the N of 1 seen in the carbon-based life on Earth. Recent reports seem to suggest that there is a potential signature of life on Venus, our very non-Earth-like neighbour.
The key points of the reports, including those in Scientific American, centre on the detection of phosphine, “at an altitude where temperatures and pressures are similar to those here on Earth at sea level.” A detection of phosphine means a potential “biosignature,” literally a “signature of life.”
The alternative is an “exotic” chemical reaction mimicking the signifiers of life without, in fact, originating from the processes of some form of microbes. After some preliminary research, Jane Greaves, an astronomer at the University of Cardiff in the U.K., and colleagues found more phosphine than expected, supporting the case for life on Venus.
Is there life on Venus? Maybe. Pete Worden, executive director of the nonprofit Breakthrough Initiatives, said, “We have what could be a biosignature, and a plausible story about how it got there… The next step is to do the basic science needed to thoroughly investigate the evidence and consider how best to confirm and expand on the possibility of life.”
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Centre for Inquiry Canada
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2020/10/26
As of as of October 25, 2020, over 9.6 million Canadians have been tested for the coronavirus with over 216,000 cases, over 24,700 active cases, and 9,900 deaths (data from the Government of Canada). Everyone knows the general recommendations coming from the Canadian Government, from their health authorities, and… from their grandmothers — i.e., wear a mask, wash your hands, physically distance at least 2 metres (6 feet) or more, etc.
This article focuses less on the obvious and more on the interesting myths, which have arisen in the time of the coronavirus. These resources come more comprehensively from the World Health Organization. There was misinformation about the efficacy of hydroxychloroquine for helping clinically with COVID-19. It does not. It helps with “malaria, lupus erythematosus, and rheumatoid arthritis.” Current evidence suggests the drug does not reduce deaths of hospitalized COVID-19 patients.
COVID-19, the disease, is caused by a virus (SARS-CoV-2), and not by a bacterium. It is part of the Coronaviridae family of viruses. This means antibiotics do not work for COVID-19, because antibiotics do not work against viruses. Antibiotics can be recommended by a provider of healthcare if some complications involve a bacterial infection alongsideCOVID-19. No current drugs have been licensed as effective in prevention or treatment of COVID-19.
The World Health Organization states, “The prolonged use of medical masks can be uncomfortable. However, it does not lead to CO2 intoxication nor oxygen deficiency. While wearing a medical mask, make sure it fits properly and that it is tight enough to allow you to breathe normally. Do not re-use a disposable mask and always change it as soon as it gets damp.” (However, for people wearing disposable masks in low risk environments, it is reasonable to reuse them until they are no longer functional.)
An important fact about COVID-19, as indicated by the above-mentioned statistics from the Government of Canada: Many die, but most patients of COVID-19 recover. Here’s a fact, too: Drinking alcohol does not, in any way, protect from COVID-19. It, in fact, can be dangerous: The stuff we drink isn’t strong enough to kill the virus, and the stuff that kills the virus can kill us if we drink it.
This one was simply too odd when I came across it. Some think COVID-19 can be spread via houseflies. There is no evidence to suggest this, at this time. It cannot be spread by mosquito bites either. Cold weather and snow don’t kill it; hot baths don’t prevent it; hot and humid climates don’t kill COVID-19. Exposure to the sun or 25-degree Celsius weather will not protect from COVID-19. Bleach taken orally — and, presumably, rectally/anally — will not cure COVID-19. It is “extremely dangerous.” (Only attempt if you intend candidacy for a Darwin Award.)
“Do not under any circumstance spray or introduce bleach or any other disinfectant into your body. These substances can be poisonous if ingested and cause irritation and damage to your skin and eyes,” the World Health Organization warned. “Bleach and disinfectant should be used carefully to disinfect surfaces only. Remember to keep chlorine (bleach) and other disinfectants out of reach of children.”
Mainly, as the fact of the matter, COVID-19 spreads via droplets from coughing, sneezing, and speaking. It can also spread from touching surfaces that are contaminated before someone then touches their eyes, nose, or mouth.
Lastly, there are no known mechanisms by which 5G mobile networks spread COVID-19.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Centre for Inquiry Canada
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2020/11/26
If you want to murder someone with an illegitimate excuse, then a decent manner in which to do so is the excuse of the State, as such, whether secular-authoritarian or theocratic.
Navid Afkari was executed. Afkari was a wrestler accused of murder who had “international appeals for him to be spared.” In the midst of anti-government protests in 2018, he was accused of killing a security guard. Amnesty International considered the “secret” execution a “travesty of justice.”
Amnesty International reported, “Before his secret execution Navid Afkari, 27, was subjected to a shocking catalogue of human rights violations and crimes, including enforced disappearance; torture and other ill-treatment, leading to forced ‘confessions’; and denial of access to a lawyer and other fair trial guarantees.”
Afkari was searching for an opportunity to have a “fair trial” to “prove his innocence,” according to Diana Eltahawy, Amnesty International’s Deputy Regional Director for the Middle East and North Africa. Afkari argued that he was tortured into making a confession. Afkari said, “If I am executed, I want you to know that an innocent person, even though he tried and fought with all his strength to be heard, was executed.”
He was hanged in the southern city of Shiraz. Afkari was prevented from seeing family before his death, his lawyer said. The World Players Association (WPA), which represents 85,000 athletes around the globe, called for a stop to the execution, deeming Afkari “unjustly targeted.” The WPA argues the targeting was based on anti-government protest participation. They further argued, before the execution of Afkari on September 12, that Iran should be expelled from world sport.
“Given the impunity which prevails in Iran, we urge the international community, including UN human rights bodies and EU member states, to take strong action through public and private interventions,” stated Eltahaway. “We deplore the Iranian authorities’ repeated use of the death penalty, which has earned it the shameful status of consistently being among the world’s most prolific executioners. There is no justification for the death penalty, which is the ultimate cruel, inhuman and degrading punishment, and we urge the Iranian authorities to abolish it.”
There were calls in support of the late wrestler before and after the execution from American President Donald Trump and the International Olympic Committee, and others on social media. The punishments by the Iranian regime extended to Navid’s brothers, Vahid and Habib, with 57 years in prison and 27 years in prison, respectively, “in the same case.” This is according to various human rights activists in the country, as reported by the BBC.
Thus, this mid-September, Iran lost a national wrestling champion due to an execution by state authorities.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Centre for Inquiry Canada
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2020/12/30
Women around the world have been increasingly vocal, alongside many men, and rightfully so, about the injustices they face. Often, it comes tied to some theocratic leader or political ideology bent on suppression of equal rights for women. All the while giving airy, arid, and empty statements about the equality of women, while lacking the substance to show for all the bluster (and blunder).
#WhiteWednesday or White Wednesday is one such manner of public protest. The founder of My Stealthy Freedom, Masih Alinejad, began White Wednesday in May of 2017. My Stealthy Freedom began on May 5 of 2014. In this, #WhiteWednesday is connected to My Stealthy Freedom as one of its outgrowths. Both are forms of public protest against the compulsory hijab law in Iran. Its surface manifestation is in the presentation of white headscarves or white pieces of cloth.
Before the 1979 Islamic revolution, many Iranian women wore clothing in the Western style of the time. However, with the imposition of Ayatollah Khomeini, as reported by the BBC in 2017, “Women were not only forced to cover their hair in line with a strict interpretation of Islamic law on modesty, but also to stop using make-up and to start wearing knee-length manteaus. More than 100,000 women and men took to the streets to protest against the law in 1979, and opposition to it has never gone away.”
Since May of 2014, women have been submitting photos and videos of defiance against the theocratic and rather patriarchal structures in Iran without the head coverings, women taking control of their individual lives, expressing solidarity in media to one another, and, in turn, inspiring other women too. In 2017, Alinejad said, “When I expressed my concern about [one contributor’s] safety, she replied that she would rather jeopardize her job than continue living under this oppression that the Iranian women have endured for the last 38 years.”
It has affected the cultures of other countries too. Even in Afghanistan or other countries where it is not mandatory in accordance with the law to wear a headscarf, many women and girls can be forced to wear one within the family. As you can see, the main point is about the individual freedom of choice of the woman to wear the headscarf, or not, rather than the headscarf itself, which becomes an imposition either by law or by familial bond(age) bound to custom.
As the White Wednesday campaign continues as an extension of My Stealthy Freedom, we can support those efforts in solidarity, as the rights for some already won are merely starting to be won by others.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Centre for Inquiry Canada
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2021/01/28
Some marked moments of science show the true beauty of international collaboration through looking upward to the sky and outward from ourselves, especially in empirical evidence showing things previously only imagined. Recently, there was some news as to the nature of the most powerful gravitational wells in the universe: black holes. In a distant galaxy, at its center, there sits a gigantic black hole 40,000,000,000 kilometres across. It was photographed with a “network of eight telescopes across the world.” The details of the photography were published in The Astrophysical Journal Letters.
The network of telescopes is collectively called the Event Horizon Telescope or EHT. The original experiment was proposed by Professor Heino Falcke of Radboud University (Netherlands). The galaxy for this monstrous black hole is M87. Falcke said, “What we see is larger than the size of our entire Solar System… It has a mass 6.5 billion times that of the Sun. And it is one of the heaviest black holes that we think exists. It is an absolute monster, the heavyweight champion of black holes in the Universe.”
Prominent in the image is what one might describe as a ring of fire surrounding the circularity of the black hole. This halo surrounding the black hole is caused by gas becoming superheated and falling into M87’s black hole. The light from the bright halo surrounding the central galactic black hole of M87 is “brighter than all the billions of other stars in the galaxy combined.” This brightness permits ease of visibility to the EHT.
The point where the inner edge of the bright halo becomes dark — this is when the superheated gas enters the black hole. “Although they are relatively simple objects, black holes raise some of the most complex questions about the nature of space and time, and ultimately of our existence… It is remarkable that the image we observe is so similar to that which we obtain from our theoretical calculations. So far, it looks like Einstein is correct once again,” Dr. Ziri Younsi of University College London stated.
The reason for the darkness on the outer circular edge of the halo comes from the lack of light emitted for sufficient brightness to be picked up by the EHT. The inner edge becomes dark because the light from the superheated gas cannot escape the M87 black hole, or any black hole for that matter, because a “black hole is a region of space[-time] from which nothing, not even light, can escape.” The black hole itself is unseen because the photons emitted by the superheated gas, which provide light for sight, become trapped and thus unseen in the gravitational well.
As stated by the Jet Propulsion Laboratory at the California Institute of Technology, “Learning about mysterious structures in the universe provides insight into physics and allows us to test observation methods and theories, such as Einstein’s theory of general relativity. Massive objects deform spacetime in their vicinity, and although the theory of general relativity has directly been proven accurate for smaller-mass objects, such as Earth and the Sun, the theory has not yet been directly proven for black holes and other regions containing dense matter.”
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Centre for Inquiry Canada
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2021/02/24
“If anyone in this audience believes God made his body and your body is dirty, the fault lies with the manufacturer.”
—Lenny Bruce
Emerald Bensadoun in Global News published an article entitled “Canada just tabled legislation to ban conversion therapy. Why is it necessary in 2020?” It’s a good query. The more fundamental question is: “Was it ever necessary?” As it is not supported by scientific evidence, as Dr. Darrel Ray of the Secular Therapy Project and Recovering from Religion suggests, it might be better thought of as analogous to sex addiction.
The Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders (DSM-5) is the standard by which mental disorders are catalogued and given proper psychological reference at this time. The latest edition was published in 2013. The sexual addiction label was rejected in 2013 in spite of the proposal for inclusion. The DSM-5 does not incorporate “sex addict” or “sexual addiction.” Thus, as Dr. Ray noted to me, his idea of sexual addiction is as a theological construct within Christian counselling, presented as if it were a psychological construct.
“There’s tons of evidence that the most religious people self-identify the most as ‘sex addicts.’ Not to mind, there is no such thing as sex addiction. There’s no way to define it. I have argued with atheists that have been atheists for 20 years who say that they are sex addicts. Help me understand, how did you get that diagnosis? I do not care if you look at porn once or twice an hour. You are still not a sex addict. So, get over that.” He further stated, “You may have other issues. You may have some compulsions. You may have some fear of driving the issue. But it almost always comes down to early childhood religious training… Sometimes, you can go an entire lifetime with a guilt, a shame, a fear, rooted in religion.”
When I reflect on the literal non-sense, lack of sense, or empirical evidence, for conversion therapy, it breaks my heart. Why should non-heterosexual peoples have to be subjected to the non-scientific whims of the popular religious culture or the sub-culture of the religious devoted to the immoral practice of conversion therapy? The Government of Canada introduced legislation for the amendment of the Criminal Code in order to ban conversion therapy, which becomes a victory for the LGBTI community in Canada, in part.
In fact, the Minister of Justice and Attorney General of Canada, David Lametti, stated, “Conversion therapy is a cruel practice that can lead to life-long trauma, particularly for young people… It sends a demeaning and degrading message… [and] is premised on a lie.” This is important in its being candid. This is a point of unification of purpose for both the scientific skeptic and the humanist communities based on their core values, because of the violation of proper science in therapeutic practice and the violation of fundamental human rights, respectively.
Five new offenses would be added to the Criminal Code, including “causing a minor to undergo conversion therapy, removing a minor from Canada to undergo conversion therapy abroad, causing a person to undergo conversion therapy against their will, profiting from providing conversion therapy and advertising an offer to provide conversion therapy,” according to Global News.
Bensadoun reported that the legislation would permit courts to seize advertisements of conversion therapy or to “order those who placed the advertisements to remove them.” This point may be contentious more than the others with freedom of expression and the Charter of Rights and Freedoms.
Indeed, this has been a Liberal campaign promise. Their website states:
Conversion therapy is a scientifically discredited practice that targets vulnerable LGBTQ2 Canadians in an attempt to change their sexual orientation or gender identity. There is international consensus in the medical community that conversion therapy is not founded in science and does not work.
To ensure that no one is subjected to this practice, we will move forward on our promise to work with provinces and territories to end conversion therapy in Canada, including making amendments to the Criminal Code that will prohibit this harmful and scientifically disproven practice, especially against minors.
Ontario, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward Island have banned conversion therapy; in other provinces, Vancouver, Edmonton, and Calgary, have as well. Manitoba made a statementagainst the practice. Thusly, this is the tide of national history with much inertia, where the vector is more towards this federal ban rather than not.
It seems like no accident that one of the communities’ victims comes from Langley, British Columbia, Canada, in the article by Bensadoun, where the infamous fundamentalist Trinity Western University is hosted: the largest private university in Canada. One of the accounts is of “Canadian Harper Perrin, who staved off efforts to change their social orientation at a church in Langely [sic], B.C.” Perrin reported on the attempts to change the ways in which they “walked and talked, making them very mindful of their body and making sure they lived a ‘masculine expression.’”
All this is perfectly clownish and silly, and degrading, except for the fact that this is truly happening rather than in some comic book or piece of fiction. People who I know and love — and I’m sure for most of you reading this it’s the same context — are suffering and are being unduly discriminated against, based on false notions and quack practitioners of faith-driven non-science. Bensadoun stated, “Faith-based organizations like the Alliance for Therapeutic Choice and Scientific Integrity (formerly known as NARTH) still exist in Canada, and a majority of them have offices that operate in multiple provinces. It provides ‘Sexual Attraction Fluidity Exploration in Therapy,’ ironically abbreviated ‘SAFE-T.’”
In some other previous interviews, I have come across the stories of suffering, sometimes of triumph. Take, for example, the case of Peter Gajdics who is an award-winning writer I interviewed in 2018. He published The Inheritance of Shame: A Memoir in May of 2017. His triumph came from publicly speaking a truth deemed uncomfortable. It probably saved his life. He was subdued and subjected to a 6-year ordeal of conversion therapy. Vancouver City banned it; British Columbia did not.
Gajdics provided a succinct statement as to the ideational constructs undergirding conversion therapy and its associated falsities:
“Conversion therapy,” also known as “reparative therapy” or even “sexual orientation change efforts” (SOCE), really took hold in direct response to the burgeoning gay rights movement of the early 1970’s, particularly after the American Psychiatric Association’s 1973 decision to declassify homosexuality from its list of mental disorders in the Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders. As gay liberation exploded over the next several years and gay people carved out their own place in history, taking great strides toward visibility and self-worth, in some cases legal vindication, the religious right advanced its own ideology of being “ex-gay” — that it was possible to sort of “pray away the gay.” Personally, I don’t really like this term, “pray away the gay,” since I think it reduces what is actually a traumatic experience to the sound of a joke, and the process of attempting to strip away a person’s core self and “convert” them into something that they’re not is anything but humorous: lives have been destroyed and even lost in the name of this kind of ignorance and outright hatred. Ultimately, there was nothing new to any of this; what we call “homosexuals” or even “gay” people today have been victims to all sorts of strange methods and ideologies to help “change” them, or at least to help conceal them, over the centuries. In the 20th century alone we’ve seen aversion therapy, castrations and lobotomies, inhumane use of psychotropics, and of course forced psychoanalysis as a common “cure.”
“Inhumane” seems like the coda to this long, long history of injustices carried forward by faith-based standards of thoughts and cultural thrust. Bensadoun’s article covers some more cases and organizations relevant to this subject matter for those interested. Canada, if it moves forward with the transition of the bill into a law, can become a comprehensive and progressive global leader in these efforts of the advancement of empirically informed public policy and the protection of the fundamental human rights of LGBTI people in our society.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Centre for Inquiry Canada
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2021/04/29
I was a religious zealot that hurt people. People said they attempted suicide over me and the things I said to them. People, I know, are in therapy because of me. Why would I want that to continue?— McKrae Game
When irony strikes in life, it can strike while the metal is hot, for the betterment of the rights of the accused, and to the advancement of a culture of critical thinking. Mahita Gajanan in Time described the story of McKrae Game who is a former conversion therapy advocate.
Game founded a South Carolina conversion therapy program. He is its former leader. Former because he came out of the closet; he’s gay. At 51, Game came out two years after being fired by the Hope for Wholeness program, which was founded in 1999. The explicit and sole purpose of the conversion therapy program founded by Game was to rid non-heterosexual people of their sexual orientation identity, which comes with the hidden premise of this as a lifestyle or not something innate to the human being.
This can be all fun and games to popular freethought groups. However, as noted by Game, these institutions, religious orientations, ideological backings, individual biases, and the like, lead to people attempting suicide based on “things… said to them” or enter into “therapy” because of it. People die because of this garbage. That’s why it matters to speak frankly and to act forcefully against it. I’m certain many people reading this are sick of hearing about it, maybe even know individuals in their lives impacted by it.
Game, in an article by the Post and Courier, said, “Conversion therapy is not just a lie, but it’s very harmful… Because it’s false advertising.” In the course of the career for Hope for Wholeness, he talked about sexual attraction to men while struggling with gay pornography. In November, 2017, he was fired. Game argues the pornography was the reason for the firing. He was “devastated” and “humiliated.” Mental health trauma and thoughts of suicide are linked to “attempts at changing a sexual orientation or gender identity.” Approximately 700,000 LGBTQ adults in the United States have received the discredited practice, based on the Williams Institute published in 2018.
The American Medical Association and American Psychological Association discredit conversion therapy; therefore, conversion therapy is not, by definitional status of two legitimate organizations, a therapy, and does not, in fact, convert. Its title does nothing of the former and fails legitimacy tests on the latter.
Bill C-6 has been introduced in Canada to ban conversion therapy, with particular attention to protecting minors.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Centre for Inquiry Canada
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2021/04/27
GAMAAN — the Group for Analyzing and Measuring Attitudes in Iran — conducted a survey on the attitudes of Iranians towards religion. It was done between June 6th and 21st of 2020. Over 50,000 respondents took part in the survey.
Respondents were based out of Iran mostly (about 90 percent), literate, and above the age of 19, while having “95% credibility level and credibility intervals of 5%” for the survey. Looking at religion taps into some associated political concepts. One of the more presumptuous ideas about Iran is that it is entirely a nation of people who believe in a supernatural, governing, designing, and maintaining, entity: God.
Seventy-eight percent of Iranians believe in God, with less than half of that believing in an afterlife (37%), heaven and hell (30%), jinns (26%), and a coming saviour (26%). Twenty percent do not believe in a God, an afterlife, heaven and hell, jinns, and a coming saviour. Sixty percent of Iranians report not praying, and 40 percent vary in their frequency (devotion) to the level of praying, “among whom over 27% reported praying five times a day.”
GAMAAN reported, “While 32% of the population identifies as Shi’ite Muslim, around 9% identify as atheist, 8% as Zoroastrian, 7% as spiritual, 6% as agnostic, and 5% as Sunni Muslim. Others stated that they identify with or follow Sufi mysticism, humanism, Christianity, the Baha’i faith, or Judaism, among other worldviews. Around 22% identified with none of the above.”
Indeed, half of Iranians, based on the survey, report losing religion from personal life. Forty-one percent report their religious beliefs were stable throughout their lives, while six percent changed “from one religious orientation to another.” About 6 in 10 Iranians come from a family who were religious believers in God and approximately 3 in 10 have a believing but not religious family. Less than 3 in 100 (not a typo) grow up or are raised in an anti-religious home.
Sixty-eight percent believe that religious prescriptions should be separate from state legislation; secularism appears as a fundamental desire to most Iranians. Only 14 percent think the laws of the country should be governing religious prescriptions, in “accord” with one another. Further, “71% hold the opinion that religious institutions should be responsible for their own funding. On the other hand, 10% think that all religious organizations, irrespective of their faith, should receive government support, while over 3% say only Islamic institutions are entitled to such benefits,” GAMAAN stated.
Around 4 in 10 Iranians believe religions should have the right to proselytize with only four percent believing in the exclusive right for Muslims. Another approximately 4 in 10 believed in a blank ban on religious proselytizing across the board. Fifty-six percent wanted secular education or did not want their children to have religious education. As GAMAAN reports, “58% said they do not believe in the hijab (Islamic veil covering the hair) altogether. Around 72% opposed the compulsory hijab, while 15% insist on the legal obligation to wear the hijab in public.”
To the nightlife and drinking culture of Iran, there is “legally enforced alcohol temperance.” However, thirty-five percent of Iranians drink “occasionally or regularly” and 56 percent do not drink alcohol at all.
Check out the full report here.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Centre for Inquiry Canada
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2020/02/11
The movement for human rights continues in an asynchronous and bumpy progression forward more than backward. In this progression, we can see regional and national differences. Some regions regress while others progress; same for nations. One of the more noteworthy cases is the increase in equal rights for the LGBTQ community. (Note: The UN has an LGBTI Core Group , so the international human rights body’s language will be used here.) Asia has had some progression in the human rights sphere here.
Taiwanese society and culture became an important, and in fact unprecedented, example of the advancement of the rights of the LGBTQ community. Taiwan was the first country in Asia to legalize same-sex marriage . In 2017, the constitutional court of the island ruled that the prohibition against same-sex couples marrying amounted to a violation of equal rights and personal freedom. The sexual orientation of individual Taiwanese citizens was ruled an innate or “immutable characteristic that is resistant to change.”
The President of Taiwan, Tsai Ing-wen, requested the Ministry of Justice develop a legal framework in light of the changes in 2017. Three bills were passed in 2019 with majority support by the leading Democratic Progressive Party of Taiwan. The most progressive bill was approved by a 66 to 27 majority. Of the three bills, it was the only one using the term “marriage” in response to same-sex partnerships or relationships.
This bill was part of the political campaigning platform of 2016. President Ing-wen pulled through for the LGBTQ community in Taiwan, set an example for the Asian region, and promoted — without this terminology — humanist and humanistic values, and human rights for a traditionally ill-treated collective: lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, and intersex people. Ing-wen tweeted, “Good morning Taiwan. Today, we have a chance to make history & show the world that progressive values can take root in an East Asian society. Today, we can show the world that #LoveWins.”
The bills went into effect on May 24, 2019.
This article appears in the February 2020 version of Critical Links.
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In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
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© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Centre for Inquiry Canada
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2020/03/25
Canadian society, since its inception, has placed faith-based organizations or religious institutions on a privileged or special pedestal, where the emphasis existed on the dominant Christian religion and the domineering denomination of Roman Catholicism followed by Protestantism. If you’re looking to question this dominant position and fundamental tenets in a critical manner, then you should be ready for predictable backlash and other consequences. These questions, of course, have been asked of the Christian faith in Canada over and over. Slowly and in increments — generation by generation — the hold of Christianity on the culture has attenuated.
Pew Research, on July 27, 2013, wrote, “Canada’s Changing Religious Landscape,” explaining an ongoing trend of the decline of religion in Canada. People question quietly; leave churches; and become more open in freethought and naturalistic perspectives on the world. The Globe and Mail describes this, rather dramatically, as a “battle for Christianity in Canada,” as if reading Professor Kenneth Miller’s argument for the “battle for America’s soul.”
Nonetheless, the numbers tell the tale of a decline in the amount of believers in Canadian society as a proportion of Canadian citizenry. In fact, one of the stabilization forces for the numbers of faithful citizens in Canada, in spite of the declines, comes from the immigration of more religious people. In fact, in Christianity Today, Gary Nelson, President and CEO of Tyndale University College and Seminary in Toronto, said that churches need to reintroduce themselves “as a place, as a possibility, and as a neighborhood impact, as opposed to a place people ‘attend’ or ‘go.’ ”
This attempt to rebrand stems from a worrisome decline in church numbers, leading to burdensome costs for maintenance. Over time, fewer Canadian dollars in the collection plates, and rising prices on fixing old buildings, forces churches to close down. The issue is finances and economics, spurred by what seems to be a lowering of religious devotion.
In the next decade, the projection is that 9,000 churches will close because of the two-factor problem of fewer believers and rising costs. “As of 2009, there were 27,601 buildings for worship, training or promotion owned by religious organizations in Canada, a statistic found buried inside a Natural Resources Canada energy audit.” This places the 9,000 as an important comparative number.
From a centuries-long perspective of the narrative of Canadian history, we live in the midst of a phase change in Canadian religious life and demographics with consequences for all facets of Canadian culture and political life because religion, Christian religion, “since its inception,” has pervaded every facet of the country.
Times they change.
This article appears in the March 2020 version of Critical Links.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Centre for Inquiry Canada
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2020/04/09
One of the most peculiar, and comprehensible, sources of moral opprobrium throughout human history is sex and sexuality, especially as regards female sexual functions and sexual pleasure. In Indonesia, the case remains much the same as in other parts of human history. Perhaps this can be seen as history as usual with an Indonesian flavour.
According to CTV News , Indonesia is hard at work trying to ban gay and premarital sex so as to reinvigorate the historical trend of condemnation of non-religiously sanctified sexuality and non-heterosexual sexuality. It’s important to note, as many of you probably know, Indonesia is the country with the largest Muslim population. Andreas Harsono, senior Indonesia researcher at Human Rights Watch, said, “Indonesia’s draft criminal code is disastrous not only for women and religious and gender minorities, but for all Indonesians.”
Al Jazeera described the nature of the proposed bill as implying that those who have extramarital and premarital sex could face a sentence of six to 12 months’ imprisonment. The president of Indonesia, Joko Widodo, thinks the proposed bill should have more review. Public outcry over the new penal code created the basis for Widodo proposing the delay of the parliamentary vote.
“ After hearing from various groups with objections to aspects of the law, I’ve decided that some of it needs further deliberation… The justice minister has been told to convey my views to parliament and that ratification of the criminal code should be postponed and not passed,” Widodo said in a televised press briefing.
Penalties under the proposed additions to the law could also be given for insulting the dignity of the president, for offering or even simply showing contraception to minors (those under the age of 18), and could also include four years in jail for an illegal abortion “in the absence of a medical emergency or rape.”
Papang Hidayat, Amnesty International Indonesia’s Research Manager, stated , “This is a setback… Religious values as a source of lawmaking has now reached the national level — that’s worrying.”
This article appears in the April 2020 version of Critical Links.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Centre for Inquiry Canada
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2020/06/30
Human rights violations and breaches of secularism and international law on small scales remain problems. Violations on large scales inflicted wholesale upon victimized and, often, defenceless peoples is tragic, violent, and immediate, even spanning decades into long-term effects of the entire lives of most of the survivors. They may never return to some semblance of normalcy in the dark and bloody tragedy brought forth from war. I see no reason to prevaricate here: people-groups at immediate risk of death, individually and collectively.
One such case in the current moment is the Rohingya, a Muslim minority with a millennia-long history in Myanmar. As Radio Free Asia has reported about the plight of this minority, “Thousands of members of the group were killed during the violence, and more than 740,000 others escaped across the border, where they now live in sprawling displacement camps in southeastern Bangladesh.” Six thousand refugees exist in a “no-man’s land” between Bangladesh and Myanmar.
The Rohingya amount to an in-between ethnic and religious minority with nowhere to call home now. External support structures can help them. In fact, they exist in large numbers. No matter the good principles, reportage, calls to action, and acts of large NGOs and INGOs, and the largest bureaucratic organization in the world, the United Nations (UN), they are big and unwieldy enough to make mistakes.
Human Rights Watch has called for the end of arbitrary travel and other restrictions on the Rohingya. The Rohingya refugees have been facing difficulties after returning to Myanmar. Important as a backdrop, hundreds of thousands of Rohingya left Myanmar. It is based on a military crackdown on the Rakhine state. These are real victims forced to flee life-threatening circumstances.
As Al-Jazeera has reported, “For the first time, they were meeting representatives from the UN and international NGOs tasked with providing education to about half a million Rohingya refugee children living in camps in Cox’s Bazar, Bangladesh. Minutes of the meeting obtained by Al Jazeera, show how the community leaders questioned the officials about the slow effort to give refugees formal education, the absence of a Myanmar curriculum in the camps, and the lack of consultation with the community.”
Some are asking serious questions about the lack of access to education. Typically, the idea is to provide an education bound to the nationality of the group, of the refugees. This means an education that the Rohingya could have expected in Rakhine state or in Myanmar as a whole. With some of this botched by the UN and other organizations, this is where there are serious questions asked of the UN and other organizations about failures in the implementation of the aforementioned principles of the organizations, as human institutions and then answering for the failures.
The problem with these refugees is threefold: the fleeing from military enforcement, the size of them in the hundreds of thousands, and the denial of the fundamental human rights as citizens, as Muslims, and as human beings. The pain and suffering from ethnic and religious persecution need to be heard.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/16
Continued from Part one
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). How do tragedies shed light on work conditions in garment factories?
This is actually an interesting question – in some ways, mostly very short-term, they can help the workers. But for the most part they are simply a diversion and the companies that employ sub-standard methods are never really held accountable. The amount of din helps the consumer to believe something is being done, even though nothing is actually changing. For more information, you can check out this article I wrote on safe working conditions in the wake of factory disasters.
Women and children remain the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
Women and children are absolutely a focus, especially since they have less resources at their disposal that they can employ to affect change. But we should not be mistaken – the families these women and children come from also have men that are being equally as exploited, just in other industries. It shouldn’t matter if it’s fashion or a dog toy, being aware of the atrocities of the supply chain are a consumer responsibility and only by taking action (by supporting responsible companies) will we make things better for anyone.
Who is a women’s rights and children’s rights activist or campaigner hero for you?
This may sound callous, but I am less concerned with human rights than animal and environmental rights. Humans have control of their existence. It is not always a lot of control, but their are always choices to be made. I am primarily libertarian in ideology so I do not believe in coddling people – whatever your situation, it is up to you to make it better. They have ways to fight their own battles. Animals, on the other hand, are truly oppressed and can not change their situation without our help. The environment then suffers the consequences of our actions, and soon none of us will have a choice about much of anything. I love David Suzuki, the Canadian environmentalist, for his ideas about working with the earth (for example, why do we farm cows in Australia where no cow exists naturally?). I also love Anita Roddick and Jane Goodall for the work they’ve done with animals. And I think Al Gore should be acknowledged for his efforts at bringing the idea of sustainability to the general masses.
The Gender Inequality Index (GII) relates to the empowerment of women, gender equality, and international women’s rights. The progress for gender equity is positive. Regressive forces exist in explicit and implicit forms. What seem like some of the explicit and implicit forms observed in personal and professional life to you?
There are certainly a lot of things that can be said about gender equality, but I think the aspect that gets lost in all of the din is the insidious detail of it. There are many large strides being made in effort of equality, but there is this unspoken stigma in being a woman that permeates your entire life.
When I was old enough to drive and work and make a life for myself, I would meet many new people, groups of friends would merge, overlap, or divide, and so I was often in situations where introductions were required. What I started to notice is that, if I was the only female in the group, I would not be introduced. It’s a small thing, hardly noticeable. But I noticed. And I felt it. And it shaped the opinions I have and the social niceties that I employ. So while I think we should continue working towards equality, we can’t forget to address the ideals and attitudes that shaped the inequality to begin with.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations, women and children, in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
The most important thing a consumer can do is vote with their dollar. If you don’t buy products that are mass produced using slave labour, require toxic chemicals, and basically just abuse the supply chain, they won’t make them. It’s. That. Simple.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at most levels. Why?
Tradition? Fashion really became a woman’s game around the turn of the 20th century – early periods saw men’s fashion hold a much higher considered importance. There were a number of factors that lead to this, but I personally think those reasons are going extinct and we are seeing greater involvement from men going forward.
Also, more men than women appear at the highest ends of the business ladder in fashion. Why?
Again, tradition? Men have traditionally taken more senior management roles than women, and within fashion, the manager is not always the designer. I think many companies would have felt a man from a different field would make a better CEO than a woman from within the fashion industry.
What might make men more involved in the fashion world in general?
As we relax the stereotypes about what are acceptable behaviors/interests for males versus females, I believe men will look more towards the fashion industry as a way to express their individuality. As I said earlier, it took me a long time to realize that fashion designers are not fashionistas – there are many roles within the industry that would appeal to people that are not necessarily fashion-oriented, and designing is only one of them.
What might make men more involved in the ethical and sustainable fashion world in general?
I think the barrier to entry is the same for everyone: knowledge. The more you know the more you will feel the need to do better.
Will having men in the discussion and on-the-ground improve the implementation of children’s and women’s rights?
I’m almost a little offended by the premise of this question. It is not about women’s rights, or children’s rights, or men’s rights…It is about the rights of humans, the rights of animals, and the rights of the Earth.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
Every person who buys one of my pieces has made a decision to do better by the world. There are a lot of people that absolutely do not care, so having this reassurance, that someone besides myself does care, is the hope that sustains my optimism.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
I’ve done a lot of volunteering in the past, but recently I turned my attention to writing. I have a wealth of information accumulated over the years, and I love sharing it with anyone that wants to learn. You can find my work on my website and on Socially Conscious Brands.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
For anyone just starting to shape their beliefs, I recommend Tom Robbins. I also love the Earth’s Children series by Jean Auel, and the Hitchhiker’s Trilogy by Douglas Adams.
Almost any dystopian speculative fiction can be eye opening to our current situation, but my favorite authors are Neal Stephenson and Margaret Atwood. Jennifer Nini is a (non)fashionista whom I follow – I love her attitude about life! I think fashion (should be) too personal to follow someone simply for their style, but Jennifer, TheYarina (Fashion Hedge), and Livia Firth are all spreading important ideas!
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, JuliaEden Designs?
You can easily contact me through my website. I welcome all inquiries and am open to all opportunities!
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
Design can be very personal…I knew I was creating something different, something that doesn’t exist anywhere else, and that is very scary. I am still struggling to believe that there are enough people out there that also like what I do to sustain my business (and to help it grow to become the non-profit I am dreaming of).
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in personal life for you?
I have dealt with a multitude of existential crises and a wealth of chemical imbalances, but the most recent example of emotional struggle that comes to mind is Bowie’s death. That hit me hard and I still have a difficult time when I think about it. The reasons why are pretty personal.
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
Whatever you get when you cross Taoism with Absurdism. I may not always achieve that level of peace with my surroundings, but it’s comforting to try. I think it was best summed up by Angel, “if nothing we do matters, then all that matters is what we do”.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
I think the main thing that people need to remember is that they have an incredible amount of power, and if they choose not to use that power by not being informed about the consumer choices they make, then that power is wasted.
Thank you for your time, Julia.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/14
Julia Eden started making custom macrame hemp necklaces for friends when she was in high school. Twenty years later, she now has an ethical and jewelry brand of JuliaEden designs . A life long environmentalist, she is passionate about sustainability in the fashion supply chain and consciously applies this to her own jewelry brand. Read her story below.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
I grew up in a fairly average, suburban, American household. My parents are recovering monotheists, and my brother and I were always encouraged to forge our own paths. With such a casual family atmosphere, I was ripe for the discoveries of liberal ideas like environmentalism, and authors like Tom Robbins.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
I grew up as a performer – mainly as an actor and dancer. Coming of age in the Seattle-adjacent Tacoma during the grunge era was incredibly liberating. I never felt pressured to be a “girly-girl”, instead opting for oversized pants and t-shirts. When I discovered fashion design in my early 20’s, I was surprised to find I have a knack and a passion for it. It took me a long time to accept that fashion designers are not necessarily fashionistas.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
It was while I was completing a degree in design (clothing production), that I learned about the supply chain. I have been a self-proclaimed environmentalist since the age of 12, but it wasn’t until this education that I came to understand how grossly uninformed I was. I would be remiss if I didn’t also mention the internet at this point – this kind of information used to be difficult to obtain, but the internet made it easier than ever to be an educated consumer.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
I’ve had a lot of jobs in a bunch of different fields over the years, but one role I can pinpoint as inspiration was my job as a bicycle messenger. The day-to-day toll that riding takes on your clothes are phenomenal. It made me much more aware of the need for quality, well-made pieces, but it also influenced my aesthetic. I find my style now is very industrial x Japanese simplicity.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
We are at a point where we no longer have the luxury of being wasteful. All companies, not just fashion ones, need to look at the bigger picture in relation to supply and operations. The idea that corporations are somehow people, but are only responsible for the financial bottom line is outdated. Entities like B Corps are helping to create a more holistic standard of measurement, opening consumers’ eyes to the ills committed by companies in quest of higher profits. If we are going to continue as a species, we have to find a way to treat the earth better!
What is the importance of fair trade?
One my little quips, or mantras, is, “if you’re only paying $20 for that sweater, someone else is paying the difference”. That difference can be paid in many ways, but one of the most devastating is in the cost to the people who work the supply chain. From toxic chemical exposure causing disease and birth defects, to innocent lives cut short in factory disasters (think Rana Plaza), real people with real lives and names and hopes and dreams are being exploited and tortured so that you can pay $1 less for your shirt. Make no mistake – prices never go down because the company has cut its profits!
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
Honestly, while I am impressed by a lot of the people who are fighting the good fight, I would say the people I hold in highest regards are those that I get to watch change their minds. Sometimes it happens during a conversation about sustainability that I have with someone; that moment when their face scrunches just a little and you see them start to get it. Other times it’s in the comments you see on the internet. Basically, any time I observe that moment when someone receives new information and assimilates it into their views.
What is JuliaEden Designs?
JuliaEden Designs is a little brand with big ideas. I have many plans for the future, but right now I’ve started with 2 lines: you can find Protosaurus on Etsy, which is my shop for the samples I create during the design process, as well as handmade accessories like macrame boards and jewelry displays; River’s Walk is my first jewelry collection and features sustainably sourced, natural materials. While I have plans to expand the line, my range of bracelets, headbands, and necklaces are all custom, handmade, and feature traditional macrame techniques.
What are some of its feature products?
I think my favorite piece is The Snoose – a nine-layer wrap bracelet that incorporates macrame, leather, and Argentium Silver.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
I use only 3 materials:
– Argentium Silver: this alloy is 93.5% silver with only a touch of germanium to inhibit tarnishing. It is sustainably produced in the USA using recycled content.
– Leather Cord: my leather is deer hide sourced from herds culled annually via the US Fish and Wildlife Service. A woman in California naturally tans and dyes the leather. I love love love this cord, and it’s the strongest leather I’ve ever worked with!
– Pima Cotton: this is the only hole in my supply chain as it comes from Peru and I am unsure about its production. Due to the requirements of macrame, I have been unable thus far to find a suitable product that is both local and sustainably produced. But good news! I have found a company that is working on recycling natural fibres and I am hoping to work with them on my next order.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of JuliaEden Designs?
Once I receive my supplies, I am the only person to touch them until they get to you! I design and hand-make all of my pieces to the highest possible standards. Wire is turned into jump rings which are soldered closed. Cotton becomes macrame focal points. Leather ties it all together.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
Yes – I do not believe synthetics should be used in fashion, ever (another mantra: There is never a good excuse for polyester!!!). Using only natural fibres ensures that my pieces do not add to the mountains of waste that will never break down!
What is your customer base – the demographics?
My pieces are unique, and as such, so is my customer base. They are mostly women, though I have male pieces available as well, and their ages range from 20’s to 70’s. They have variable incomes, lifestyles, and even environmental attitudes. What links them is a desire for jewelry that is
Continued in Part Two…
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/13
Wild Thing Toys was founded by Fehmida Ibrahim Shah. She has worked with various social and educational movements and is passionate about supporting a fair trade business models. She started Wild things toys that inspire imagination and play. This is her story.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
My name is Fehmida Ibrahim Shah, I was born in the UK, of Indian heritage, and live in London with my three children and a selection of pets.
Tell us about your story – education, prior work, and so on?
I have never really stuck to a career path as such, and have almost always accidently fell in to various fields, from being a florist, to teaching, and working in the social housing sector.
I have studied floristry, then building construction & social housing at Middlesex University and then have gone on to study design & textiles. I am presently studying Near East Archaeology.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainability?
As far as I can remember, as a family, we were taught the values of having respect for other people, for animals, and for the planet. We were taught that the earth was precious and we were the guardians of it. Even though the terms ‘ethical’ and ‘ecofriendly’ were not used when I was young, recycling and repurposing was something that was instilled in to us. My parents were both keen gardeners and I remember endless days helping them grow flowers, fruits and vegetable, using novel pest free sustainable methods.
The turning point of when I knew I wanted to do something ethical came about when I did some voluntary work with children in the West Bank. I observed the teachers in the summer play camp making toys out of scraps of paper and bits of cloth. I marveled at their ingenuity and their ability to create something wonderful with minimum wastage.
I started a business creating paper goods whereby everything was made by either sustainable paper or completely wood free.
After running my business for a number of years, I wanted to do something else as well. Having admired the fair trade movement for a long time, it motivated me to start a business that had a completely fair trade business model.
I wanted to create a product made by someone whose life would have improved because of it. This is where my soft toy business ‘Wild Thing Toys’ came in.
What seems like the importance of fair trade?
Fair Trade has a hugely positive impact on the lives of workers and their families. It raises the standards of living for the workers and also their communities. As well as a living wage, the communities can invest in much needed projects, such as schools and health centres. Fair trade gives people opportunities that give them more control over their lives. Why shouldn’t someone from another country have the opportunities that you and I have?
Fair trade is also empowering for women. Women often face harassment and discrimination within factories and places of work around the world. Working under fair trade standards, they have protection and gender equality. Fair trade can help women to reach their full potential by making available opportunities they did not have before, such as education, leadership roles and entrepreneurship programs. They can also work within their own village and community for a decent wage and under good conditions, without having to travel to the major cities and leave their families behind.
What seems like the importance of a (relative to the country) living wage?
The minimum wage set by some countries fall short of what can be deemed as a living wage. The reality being, these workers struggle to survive on these wages whilst making products for us to consume. When a company does not provide a living wage in the poorest countries, it essentially pushes out the weakest people in the supply chain.
These workers may be forced to take on additional low paid jobs under appalling conditions and send their children to work instead of school. This keeps them indefinitely stuck in a vicious cycle of poverty.
All Wild Things soft toys and dolls are made from hand loomed cotton and environmentally friendly and child safe dyes. All products are also CE tested to EN71 and are safe for children.
A living wage, on the other hand should be enough to meet the basic needs such as food, water, housing, health care, education, clothing, transportation and child care, consequently giving the workers a chance to live a decent life, which we would all agree, is a human right.
A business who manufactures and uses a workforce would expect a high quality of goods being produced. The workers should also expect a good wage for the work they have done.
Workers that are happy and motivated are more likely to be more productive and take less time off due to sickness, which would be beneficial for the business too.
What is Wild Things Toys?
At Wild Thing toys we create heirloom quality soft toys which are all fair trade certified. Our soft toys are made from handloomed cotton made in a traditional way which is centuries old.
All the workers are paid a decent wage, work in safe and healthy working conditions, and have access to other benefits such as health checks and education projects. Employment takes place in rural villages, so the artisans do not need to travel miles leaving their families behind to work in large factories, therefore benefiting the whole community.
Our soft toys and dolls are certified by the World Fair Trade Organisation.
What are some of its feature products?
Simple natural toys with minimum features that inspire a child to imagine the countless possibilities, as opposed to the toy thinking for the child. Wild Thing Toys are made to last and to be passed on for many years to come.
Handmade and eco friendly Fox doll by Wild Things Toys. All dolls are made without beaded eyes, everything is made from fabric and stitched or embroidered on. Therefore you can be rest assured that all our toys are not only super adorable, but made to the highest safety standard.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Wild Things Toys?
The products are designed by me and from then on, I work closely with the handloom organisation Selyn, who make the toys for me. The fabric is woven using yarn which is dyed with AZO-free, ecofriendly dyes. A wastewater plant treatment ensures that the environment is protected at the same time. This waste water is treated and re used in the gardens to grow vegetables. We work closely with our partners, who are the only certified fair trade hand loom organisation in Sri Lanka. Most of the work is done in rural areas, where jobs for women are limited. The working mothers here also have the benefit of a day care facility while they work.
What is the customer base – the demographics?
Currently my fair trade soft toys are sold in the UK and worldwide via online shops.
What topics most interest you?
Surface textile design, historical textiles and archaeology. I have a keen interest in the lifestyle of past cultures and civilizations, and what we can learn from them. I am also interested in current ethical Issues.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
I feel blessed to be able to do a job that I love. The gratification comes from being able to create a design and see it made in to a product with the knowledge that the person who has made the product for me, also has a decent job with good wages.
Any other work at this time?
I am still running my paper goods business, I like to get involved with book donation projects for children. I am also presently studying Archaeology.
Any recommended means of contacting you?
You can contact me via my website www.wildthingtoys.com.
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
Real success is not about the attainment of wealth; rather it is about the quality of life you create for others and the peace of mind you attain for yourself.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
I feel delighted that my business was included amongst all the other likeminded ethical businesses. I hope your interviews will encourage others in to taking their first step in to fair trade and sustainability.
Thank you for your time, Fehmida.
Thank you Scott.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/13
Maha Mala creates beautifully hand crafted 108 bead Necklaces using crystal and Indian Traditional seeds. These 108 bead necklaces are called ‘Malas’ in Sanskrit and are used for chanting. Based out of the heartland of India, New Delhi; each of their crystals are sourced locally and every product is hand made. Read more about Maha Mala in our interview with co founder Piya Jain.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
It really seemed like the need of the moment. With all the use of chemicals in this fast consumerism world, I felt like we need to go back to the roots and be more organic.
What seems like the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
I feel that for ethical and sustainable fashion companies, it isn’t exactly what they are selling but about the numerous people they are benefiting. It could be food, or clothing or accessories, there is always a multitude of people involved in the process and where as most companies don’t care about the efforts made at the grassroots, the more organic companies really do give importance to that.
What seems like the importance of a (relative to the country) living wage?
Mostly workers in today’s day and age are exploited. Everyone wants a good product for a cheap price. While the companies make a sizable profit, the workers suffer at the most. Hence it is important to pay the workers well so that together the company can grow with them.
What is Maha Mala?
Maha Mala is a spiritual Jewellery company specializing in making 108 prayer bead necklaces, also known as Malas.
What inspired the title of the organization?
Maha Mala means ‘Grand Necklace’. It is a personal product used for ones own personal growth so it is a grand aspect of one’s own life.
What are some of its feature products?
Semi precious and precious gemstones and Ahimsa silk (cruelty free silk).
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
We use Ahimsa silk. It is silk that is farmed without killing the silk worms. We also use organic khadi material for packaging of each mala.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Maha Mala?
I do. I am the owner of Maha Mala.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
Yes.
What is the customer base – the demographics?
The spiritual community of the world. People who meditate and practice yoga.
What topics most interest you?
Gem therapy, Sustainability and natural therapy.
Did someone mentor you?
Yes, over the years I have read many books that touched me deep within ad I do have an eternal mentor in life.
Thank you for your time, Piya.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/11
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
A 30-year-old male, born in Oslo, Norway, and grew up in Bergen, Norway, I was exposed to many religions throughout school. However, I am an agnostic, meaning that I do perceive there to be something…bigger…than us out there, and am not convinced by any of the manmade religions. Perceive that there is a bigger chance the religions are talking about the same “thing”, but fighting over which name to give it.
I’m bi-lingual+ meaning my Norwegian and English is at native levels, and my Chinese is conversational
In terms of culture I’m quite the “mutt” now, after living for 3+ years in both Norway, China, and Ireland, and travelling to over 50 countries. Closest description would be an international citizen with a Norwegian background.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
After doing my year of military service on the border of Russia (an amazing and life changing experience) I decided to study international marketing at the Norwegian School of Business. Choosing this study had a basis in the fact that my younger sister was adopted from China in 2001, and International Marketing offered an exchange year to Shanghai for its third and final year.
Once in Shanghai I absolutely loved it, and upon completing my bachelor I enrolled in a Masters in Economics at Fudan University in Shanghai.
While there I met the founders of Mamahuhu, Luis and Carolina. They actually started Mamahuhu while we were studying together, and at the same time I started my venture into the world of mobile apps.
After four years living in China, my fiancé, Effy, who is Chinese, wanted to study her Masters in Europe. So we moved to Ireland where I continued developing apps for another year, while she studied.
Once Effy graduated, I wanted to take a break from the entrepreneurial life and see what corporate life was like. Dublin, Ireland, is the technological hub of Europe, and there were plenty of choices. Finally, my choice was doing Software as a service sale for the red giant, Oracle.
An amazing company which taught me many valuable lessons, it was early apparent to me that this was not the correct road. So on the side of work, my fiancé and I started working on a way to get location independence. (Earning a living that is not dependent on going to work at a specific place)
We spent a year setting up a tea company on side of work, that culminated in a great Kickstarter campaign, that unfortunately failed due to a product/market fit that was not good enough.
After that campaign we (Effy and I) got the amazing opportunity to join Luis and Carolina, who had continued to build Mamahuhu over the last 6 years.
Mamahuhu had an amazing growth and road behind it, from selling on Facebook to friends and family then to having 7 shops in Colombia and 2 in Spain.
There were however large untapped areas, specifically online sales.
We were invited to come onboard as partners to bring Mamahuhu’s ethical fashion to the rest of the world by setting up and running www.mamahuhu.com and other online sales.
Now Effy and I are developing Mamahuhu worldwide, working from wherever we are, and enjoying it thoroughly. So far this year we have spent over one month in Norway, China, Ireland, and Spain, working from wherever we are.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
Growing up in Norway, ethics is something we get both in school and home. It is far from perfect, but I perceive that I’ve had a very lucky and good start on life in the beliefs and mental patterns that was brought from home.
Additionally, I perceive that my generation has a more sustainable view on how life on earth should be lived. So my interest has always been there.
However, it was after coming in as a partner in Mamahuhu that it really crystallized. It is a constant challenge for us, how to balance the combination of stylish fashion brand and an ethical company.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
I view myself first and foremost as a business man, and believe that it is through positive business that we can change the world for the better.
Instead of asking people to give up their car, make one that doesn’t pollute.
Instead of asking people to recycle, make bio-degradable items.
Instead of lobbying the government to support ethical companies, make ethical companies that can not only stand on their own, but thrive in the fight with fast fashion.
You might say that some of the naiveté and idealism I perceive is to be found in students all around the world never got drawn out of me, because I had several years as an entrepreneur before stepping into the corporate environment. (And made sure to leave it behind before it changed me.)
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
This is a great question, and it ties in with my answer for the previous one.
Often it is said that to succeed in business you must be ruthless and hard. Too many accidents and horrible events are the result of people compromising on their ethics.
Our vision here at Mamahuhu is that it is possible to make a thriving and profitable business on the basis of treating everyone in our value chain fairly, ad with respect. An example is that we pay over 4 times as much for our shoes as most fast fashion brands, yet we are still a strong and profitable company.
How? Through business model innovation. By sending shoes directly from artisans to our stores or to customers, we avoid the middle men. This means that we sell less shoes, as distributors regularly buy 10,000-200,000 shoes at once, but the price they need is unsustainable for ethical production.
And this is the importance of ethical fashion designers and companies: Showing people a better way of doing business, that is both ethical and sustainable for our planet.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
My first thought goes to Amyann Cadwell of The Good Trade (http://www.thegoodtrade.com/), because of the amazing impact she has. I half-jokingly liken being mentioned by The Good Trade as the ethical fashion world equivalent of a Vogue cover story .
There are many webpages dedicated to ethical and sustainable fashion, yet few who I can say truly thrives. I really respect what she and her team has accomplished by building a business that not only thrives, but they are able to stand by their ethics and beliefs.
What is Mamahuhu?
Mamahuhu is two things:
On the one hand, Mamahuhu is a fashion brand that offers colourful shoes, bags, and accessories to modern men and women.
On the other hand, Mamahuhu is an ethical company whose vision is to keep alive the tradition of family owned workshop. We do this by empowering and supporting unemployed artisans to become ethical workshop owners, and develop into self-sustaining companies. So far we have set up 15 workshops, and created over 200 jobs in challenges communities.
Every shoes has its own attributes, and deserves to be treated personally to make sure all parts fit perfectly together and all the details are attended carefully. The process is like creating a piece of art. Only those that are handmade by experienced artisans can reach such level of perfection.
What inspired the title of the organization?
It was while studying in China that Mamahuhu was conceived, and the name literally means “HorseHorseTigerTiger” in Chinese. This word is one of the first one learns as foreigners studying Chinese, because of the easy pronunciation. Meaning of the word is careless and casual.
What are some of its feature products?
We have just launched a new collection of Riviera shoes on Kickstarter, and that is looking very good indeed, as we got funded in only one week! I perceive this as real proof that people care how their clothes were made, by who, and how they were treated.
Besides these, our most popular products are our signature shoe collections of Colorines, Nevaditas, and Moccasins.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Our core customers are women and men between 21 to 35, who has a fun and colourful style. Additionally, we have many customers who are in their heart still 25, fun, and colourful.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
I’ve never looked into scientific research around this topic, so my thoughts here are just uneducated opinions (unlike most of the rest?).
As a child I was not very interested in fashion. It kept me warm when it was cold. It kept me dry when it was raining. It helped me fit in so I could figure out who I was.
I have a thought that this is a common perception for boys more so than girls who seem to care more about what they wear.
Once into the teenage years it became very quickly apparent that my style is how the world sees me, and so I (and maybe other boys?) started caring more what I wore.
These early experiences might be the small pebbles that changes the road over time. Meaning that interest in fashion from an early age might influence choices made in teenage and young adult years, when deciding which “career” to pursue.
This is however complete speculation .
What might make men more involved in the fashion world in general?
Education about what jobs are available in the fashion world, what they entail, and what can be accomplished through them.
As an aside to previous question, I perceive that the fashion might seem very closed off and unapproachable by many young people (and old for that matter).
Personally I’ve sort of “created” my own job in the fashion industry, and before joining I knew little about which jobs were available. Early education for boys into what is possible might have a huge impact.
What might make men more involved in the ethical and sustainable fashion world in general?
I’m not convinced that there are many more women than men involved in the ethical and sustainable fashion world, but I’m willing to speculate
So again, this is pure speculation. But I would not be surprised if more men become involved in ethical and sustainable fashion as the industry continues to increase in recognition and prestige.
Ethical and sustainable fashion is on a sharp upward trend. Many men seem to me to be drawn towards prestigious and high profile jobs. As ethics become “cool” we might see more men involved.
Will having men in the discussion and on-the-ground improve the implementation of children’s and women’s rights?
I perceive so, yes. A cause will never have full power if half the population is not involved. Though I personally believe that men ARE involved in the discussions and on-the-ground.
Mamahuhu works with artisans from disadvantage areas in Colombia, and rescue leather workshops that was previously unemployed. Currently we support over 110 artisans, spread over 11 workshops in Bogota, Colombia.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
Two types.
Firstly, this is an extremely challenging job. Nearly every day brings a new challenge that I’ve never dealt with before, which requires my full faculties, experience, and educational background to solve.
With entrepreneurship we are creating something out of nothing, and that is hard.
It is also extremely giving. As through these struggles I grow every single day. Since joining Mamahuhu I’ve learned countless new skills, and honed those I already had to a new level.
This development is very fulfilling.
Secondly, I get to bring my full force to bear on a project that I believe makes the world a better place. That is extremely motivating, knowing that this work is in line with my own ethics and beliefs.
I would not wish upon my worst enemy to go day in and day out trying to distract themselves from the fact that they are betraying their morals, and what they do is evil. Money can’t clean your conscience.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
At the moment my full focus is on growing Mamahuhu and increase the positive impact that we have.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Too many. Oh so, so, many.
I’d like to share a “hidden” gem of the internet though.
This is the link to Derek Siver’s book summaries. A brilliant writer and entrepreneur, this is a huge gift to anyone who wants to develop who they are. Having read many of those books myself, I find that the summaries often give better return on invested time than reading the full book.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, Mamahuhu?
For those who feel like they are in their twenties, and like fun, colourful fashion, the best place is www.mamahuhu.com
We also respond to every (non-spam) email we get at online@mamahuhu.co, whether happy customers who wants to share their happy feelings, other entrepreneurs who are on their own journeys, or journalists who like good stories
We are also always looking for great shops or boutiques that wants to partner with Mamahuhu.
We are also on:
FB: https://www.facebook.com/mamahuhu.co/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/mamahuhu.co/
Twitter: https://twitter.com/MamahuhuOnline
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
I find that only through conversation, whether with a person or with a blank page, does one sharpen one’s thoughts. Thank you for the opportunity to sharpen mine
Thank you for your time, Henrik.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/10
Conscious Elegance creates fun, ethically sourced eco-chic wedding attire at a fair price. Sustainability, social responsibility, & affordability are their priorities and reflected in every aspect of their business. Designer Lori, tells us more.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
When I hear the words ‘family background’ I think of my parents. I was born of Italian and Austrian/Romanian parents in upstate NY and we moved south to small-town Maryland, first on the Eastern Shore (Salisbury) then in Central MD (Fredrick), for my formative years. I have one sister who is 20 months younger and she was my best friend throughout our childhoods. My culture growing up was one of crafting, frugality and DIY, though not what one might consider artistic. My family valued education and independence and my mother went back to college when I was a pre-teen; I was able to watch her graduate, which was an incredibly proud day for all of us. Language: Spoke English at home but studied every possible foreign language at school (I wanted to travel!).
Tell us about your story – education, prior work, and so on?
Education: Bachelor’s Degree in English Lit, Bachelor’s and Master’s Degree in Speech-Language Pathology (SLP). Still licensed and certified as a speech-language pathologist, because I worked too hard to give that up. I was previously certified in massage therapy not for a career but from a lifelong interest in holistic medicine. I figured that the best way to learn how to be healthy was to learn how bodies work. I put myself through grad school as a costumer for semi-professional theatre in Baltimore, Maryland which is where I truly learned to sew. I learned my craft through apprenticeship rather than from school and I believe that my way of learning was infinitely better for me. Worked as an SLP for 12 years before deciding to start a custom wedding dress design company that would cater to the hard-to-fit bride. Kept the company up for 10 years before deciding to move onto designing baby and household goods.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
While researching sources for my dress design business I became aware of both the horrors of factory conditions and the poisoning of lands & people through use of pesticides and production of petroleum-based fabrics. Until then, I’d had no idea what had gone into the cheap t-shirts I was wearing. I refused to be part of the problem and decided to Be the Change. I shifted my company’s focus to use reclaimed and eco-supportive materials exclusively, with a focus on local production and zero-waste business practices.
What seems like the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
Again, our world has become polluted and depleted due to our squandering of resources. Her people have been exploited and abused, all in the name of ever-new and ever-cheap fashion. We need to be part of the solution and we need to lead the way.
The Brundtland Commission Report described the need for sustainability. In that, we, the human species, need to meet the “needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs” for long-term sustainability. Does this seem correct to you?
It does seem correct, if for no other reason than the world has taken the opposite approach for so long and we see where that has gotten us. There may have been a time when there were so few people taking up so few resources that there was no need to think to the future. That time is long past.
How can ethical and sustainable fashion contribute to the long-term sustainable future for the atmosphere, the biosphere, and the environment?
There are several ways that come immediately to mind:
1) By reclaiming and re-using resources, we limit the consumption of raw materials and thus limit the energy needed to produce and refine them is greatly reduced.
2) By reclaiming and re-using resources, landfill space is spared and less land is required to be cleared to make room for our trash. This protects wildlife and real estate and preserves it for future generations.
3) By using ecologically sound practices to grow crops such as hemp and organic cotton, our land in use is spared the pollution of pesticides and herbicides. The surrounding flora and fauna and the people who grow and process these crops have a better chance of healthy lives. In addition, the land is kept viable for those who would come next.
4) By keeping production as local as possible, we support our communities and save fossil-fuel consumption by reducing shipping and transportation costs.
What is Conscious Elegance?
Conscious Elegance is a micro-brewed independent design company that creates beautiful and useful things from reclaimed, vintage and sustainable materials.
What inspired the title of the organization?
I wanted to convey the concept that conscious consumption could be beneficial and elegant. At the time I was creating the business (the early 2000’s), I was designing high-end wedding dresses and the pervasive thought was that eco-friendly and sustainable dresses had to be ugly and homespun, like a burlap sack. I wanted to show that Conscious does not equal Austerity.
What are some of its feature products?
Conscious Elegance is in transition at the moment; we had been focusing on sustainable fashion and design for the first 10 years of our journey. We’re now developing and designing high-end and useful household items such as infant crib sets and duvet covers using reclaimed and vintage silk, hemp and organic cotton.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
See above. Besides reclaimed silks, our new materials are certified organic cottons and hemp blends. To my knowledge, currently the world’s hemp crops are principally grown in Romania and China, though we are hoping to change that with improved legislation.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Conscious Elegance?
Since we use mostly reclaimed and vintage fabrics, our manufacturers come from every time and every place.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
Yes. The hemp and silk blends that we use have a 100 SBP rating, or Sustainable Biodegradable Product rating. This means that it was cultivated in a sustainable fashion and will biodegrade 100%.
As for our reclaimed fabrics, we are not able to predict the biodegradeability of each piece of vintage silk, but we focus on sourcing natural fabrics rather than petroleum-based products, with the intent that our fabrics will return to the soil like any other natural/biological substance.
What is the customer base – the demographics?
When we were creating wedding dresses, the demographics of our market were mostly age 20-40, educated and eco-minded, though we did have several clients who were glad to have a beautiful well-made custom gown regardless of the sustainability. We did our best to educate them while we made them look gorgeous on their special day.
What topics most interest you?
Frugal and sustainable living, wholistic health, archaeology, photorealistic drawing/painting.
Did someone mentor you?
No. Sadly it has been very difficult to find gurus in this field who were doing exactly what I’d wanted to do.
Have you mentored others?
Many (countless!) fiber arts students contact me from all over the world to learn more about hemp fabrics and sustainable business practices. I’m glad to give them info and send them swatches, free of charge, for their school projects. I also lecture regularly at local events to help educate the public, even presenting at the American Textile History Museum, where I had a gown on exhibit.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
I get great satisfaction out of making something beautiful, and, even more importantly, something useful out of materials that had been discarded and unused. I believe in making the most of what we have.
Any other work at this time?
Besides working in fiber, I am a portrait artist, largely focusing on graphite as my medium but recently branching out into pastels. I show in local galleries and at sci-fi / fantasy conventions. I have several pieces online at http://www.afinelikeness.com/gallery/
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
While he may not be a fashionisto, the author Neil Gaiman is one of my all-time Inspirations. His commencement speech to the University of the Arts 2012 is a piece that every creative person should take to heart. Google ‘Neil Gaiman’s Awesome Commencement Speech’ and you’ll find it.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, you?
Email works best.
What seems like the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
Charging a fair wage for my work. My family wasn’t wealthy and money was always a concern when I was growing up. I’m constantly aware of how many people struggle and my heart goes out to them. I want to help.
What seems like the greatest emotional struggle in personal life for you?
Feeling like my reach exceeds my grasp. It feels like there’s never enough time or stamina or daylight to do everything I want in a day.
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
Two come to mind. The first is ‘Use it up, wear it out, make do or do without’. The second comes from ‘Desiderata’: ‘Beyond a wholesome discipline, be gentle with yourself.’
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
I’m extremely grateful for the time you’ve put into this article and thank you for the chance to speak. I truly believe that together we can change the world into what we want it to be.
Thank you for your time, Lori.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/10
Purse and Clutch employs weavers & seamstresses in Guatemala & leather workers in Ethiopia to break the cycle of poverty in countries with limited job opportunities. Know more about them in our interview with Jen Lewis!
Purse and Clutch artisans in Ethiopia. In Ethiopia, men & women are stuck in poverty because of a systemic lack of employment opportunities. Even skills training & education can’t help if no jobs exist. By employing Ethiopians to make leather designs, Purse and Clutch creates opportunities for hardworking, incredibly talented individuals.
What is Purse & Clutch?
For the last 5 years Purse & Clutch has been an online retail boutique curating high quality, well designed, & ethically made handbags. We’re passionate about long term partnership with artisans in developing countries who create their products with an emphasis on design & quality. These artisans are treated with respect & are paid a living wage for their region.
Starting this coming Spring, we’re transitioning from a boutique curation of fair trade finished products to designing & producing our own line. This will allow us to know our artisans intimately by name, incorporate design input from our community, & control production from start to finish.
Our artisan teams consist of single mothers in Guatemala making gorgeous woven cotton fabric items & an incredible group of leatherworkers in Ethiopia where other employment opportunities simply don’t exist.
As the manager of the workshop, Israel is incredible at keeping every detail straight for each handbag & manages his team with grace & confidence. He’s also the mastermind who transforms our designs & patterns into life giving invaluable feedback with his extensive knowledge of leather construction.
What inspired the title of the organization?
It actually started with a play on the word clutch – as in the sports players who come through in the clutch, but when I looked up available domain names everything was related to car parts! From there I checked to see if www.purseandclutch.com was available & when it was, I bought it immediately! I loved that it was straightforward & transparent, which is exactly what I knew I wanted the business to be about.
Tell us about your story – education, prior work, and so on? / How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I grew up in North East Texas. My dad was born & raised in Jos, Nigeria & several of his siblings returned to West Africa as adults which meant that I grew up hearing about civil wars, lack of access to medical care, & stunning African countrysides. I knew I wanted to play a role in connecting needs & resources but really had no idea what that would or could look like.
I went to John Brown University in NW Arkansas to study Chemistry. Upon graduating, my plan was to continue my education in the field of nutrition researching ways to fortify indigenous crops with needed missing nutrients in South America but I was offered a job teaching Chemistry at a bilingual High School in Honduras. I jumped at the chance to live in Latin America. It because obvious very quickly that teaching at an affluent high school wasn’t getting at my desire to connect needs with opportunities, so after the year I returned to John Brown University to get my Master’s of Science in Leadership & Ethics. I was fortunate enough to be awarded a Fellowship with a non-profit leadership training organization called The Soderquist Center that gave me incredible insights into the non-profit world & access to amazing mentors who taught me to dream big.
After grad school, I moved to Austin to be back in Texas & closer to family as I pursued a career in non-profit humanitarian work. I got a job helping to cultivate a healthy community for a group of formerly homeless individuals that was much closer to my passion of connecting resources to needs, but I kept feeling frustrated that as a woman living alone I didn’t feel comfortable inviting the middle-aged men – many working through addictions – into my home.
At this time a dear friend from grad school had moved to Northern India to help start an organization that worked with locals to make handbags designed with their Western customers in mind. The stories she would tell me of the transformation that employment could bring captivated me. She told me there was essentially a line out the door of eager potential workers looking for a job, and that they just needed to sell more bags to be able to expand their workforce. She shipped me a box of handbags & as they were being made I researched everything I could about how to start an online shop. From there Purse & Clutch was born.
It really is incredible how much of an impact employment can have on an individual’s life as well as on her community. By changing the way manufacturing is done – from an exploitative industry to one that lifts its workers out of poverty – we can begin to unravel the cycle of poverty.
What makes slow fashion better than fast fashion?
Slow fashion looks to add job opportunities whenever possible – not cut corners at any cost. We definitely take a slow fashion approach to production! While we could purchase already made & dyed thread to speed up production times, we wouldn’t be employing as many women along the way. We opt for choices that extend the life of a product even if it’s more expensive for us to make so that a handbag lasts season after season & doesn’t need to be thrown away or replaced every six months. We do this by committing to high quality, natural materials as well as only launching new collections twice a year (Spring & Fall) that are timeless patterns & color combinations. In slowing down the fashion cycle, we hope to encourage our community to make educated, thoughtful choices about their purchases.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
The fabric in Guatemala begins with a boll of cotton. The cotton is spun into thread, then botanically dyed using traditional Mayan plant & insect recipes to get the perfect hue. The thread is then loaded onto a loom to become the vertical base called the warp. More thread, called the weft, is then passed back & forth to create specific patterns. The finished woven fabric is then sent to the seamstresses to make into the finished products you see on our site.
Any women’s rights activist or campaigner hero for you?
Lately I’ve been inspired by Marian Wright Edelman, founder & director of the Children’s Defense Fund who said, “If you don’t like the way the world is, you have an obligation to change it. Just do it one step at a time.”
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, you?
We’ve just opened applications for a new Insights Focus Group that will be housed on Slack. We’re looking for a group of thoughtful & creative influencers who can act as our sounding board as we develop our brand & continue to support fair wages in Guatemala & Ethiopia in a substantive way. Apply here!
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/07
Rachel grew up in a small suburb of Los Angeles where she resides today. Growing up in a creative environment with her mother who is an artist, inspired her to study Art History and Chinese in a small liberal arts school in Lexington, Virginia. Hipsters for Sisters is a label she founded with her mother and sister. Read more about her and their fashion label, all made in their L.A. studio.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
I grew up in a small suburb of Los Angeles, California, where I reside today. When I was younger, my mother worked as a fine artist and I was always nearby while she painted on these huge, larger-than-life canvases. I was really lucky to always be surrounded by such creativity— paints and papers and craft supplies. I had a very creatively-enriched childhood. Today, my mom and I are business partners and I get to work with her full-time on Hipsters for Sisters.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
I studied Art History and Chinese at a small liberal arts school in Lexington, Virginia, but my passion has always been making things. Even when I was little, I’d be making purses out of glue and paper, so it just seemed fitting that during my senior year of college, my mother decided she wanted to reinvent the fanny pack and I was there to help her.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
My interest in ethical and sustainable fashion sort of grew in an organic way. I’d been vegetarian since as early as I could remember, and so when my mom and I decided to start making bags, we couldn’t bring ourselves to use real leather —so naturally, we chose vegan leather instead. While we were perfecting our first designs, we learned about the toxicity of certain vegan leathers like PVC, so then we became even more discerning about the types of fabrics we used. We saw it as a necessity for everything we sourced to be safe for the environment and also the people wearing and making it. Although leather is always the least sustainable option in terms of fabric, we place strict requirements on the vegan leathers we do use. We require them to be free from organic solvents, odors and environmental toxins such as formaldehyde, pesticides, phenols, chlorine, heavy metals, carcinogenic and allergy-inducing dyes common in many synthetic leathers.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
There are so many different facets to having your own fashion brand, and so to be quite frank, it took a while for us to get the lay of the land and figure out how it all works. Although, I do think the study of art and art historical movements really helped with design.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
Ethical and sustainable fashion brands are really the future. I think, in a sense, ethical fashion is a movement against the rise of fast fashion, and rightfully so. It’s a return to ethical and local ways of manufacturing — slow fashion, small quantities and local production means a lower impact on the planet. And if we can do all that while using sustainable and renewable textiles, then hallelujah(!), we finally found a better and more conscious way of participating in fashion. If we no longer have a planet upon which to wear clothes, then what’s the point of making them?
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
I love what Reformation is doing in terms of sustainable fashion. They’ve really changed the game by making it cool to care about the planet and has in turn, helped out a lot of us, small, sustainable fashion brands. I also really respect and look to the influential people that are using their power for good like Leonardo DiCaprio, and sustainable fashion icon, Emma Watson, and of course, the celebrities who participate in the Red Carpet, Green Dress movement by wearing (and re-wearing) sustainable gowns for red carpet events.
What is Hipsters for Sisters?
Hipsters for Sisters (www.hipstersforsisters.com) is a Los-Angeles based, hands-free bag brand on a mission to liberate women from their baggage. All of our bags are meant to be worn as belt bags (a revamped version of the fanny pack) and some convert to be worn crossbody. As a modern company, we believe we have a responsibility to the earth and so all of our bags are made locally and sustainably, using only the highest quality sustainable and cruelty free materials available.
What inspired the title of the organization?
Hipsters for Sisters is all about empowering women. 5% of the purchase price of every bag sold is donated to organizations that help empower women, protect the planet and animals. The name, Hipsters for Sisters, felt right, as we’ve always wanted to create a type of community for women (or sisters, if you will).
What are some of its feature products?
One of our best selling items is the Pocket Bum Bag (http://www.hipstersforsisters.com/bum-bag-pocket-xl-black). They’re made with eco-friendly certified vegan leathers, Ultrasuede (made from post-industrial recycled materials) and organic cotton lining. These are really popular because they’re particularly roomy inside, so you can take a lot of stuff with you, and also people love that you can slip your phone in the front external pocket which allows for easy access.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
We use eco-friendly certified vegan leathers and natural materials like organic cotton, hemp, and cork. We also use Ultrasuede, made from post-industrial recycled material. Sourcing is the hardest part for us, and we are always on the lookout for new, innovative, sustainable materials.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Hipsters for Sisters?
Our bags are all made locally here in Los Angeles by a family-run factory that treats its employees with respect and love. Our factory is just a few miles from our office, which makes it easy to run over and check on production. They often put together “pot-luck” style lunches where each one of them brings a homemade dish and shares with one another. We are so lucky to have such skilled craftsmen and women working on our bags and the opportunity to meet and visit with them frequently, since they’re so close to our office.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
Well, our bags are built so last. So they should last you a good ten or so years, before they start wearing down. Although all of them will eventually biodegrade at some point, but probably not before you’re done using the bag.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Our bags are for all women, of all ages, all races, all ethnicities. All women need and want to be liberated and empowered. We are for everyone…except men, at the moment— but we are working on that! =
What topics most interest you?
I’m always interested in new ethical brands and innovative sustainable textiles. Also, art and how it intersects with fashion.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
It’s rewarding to be part of a movement that is working to clean up the fashion industry, the second most polluting industry on the planet, and create more sustainable and ethical choices for consumers for a better, healthier way of shopping. It’s also rewarding to be able to give back and support organizations doing incredible things for our planet. Because of our customers, we’re able to give to organizations that help empower women, protect the planet, and animals. For example, last spring we saved almost 300 acres of Sumatran Rainforest through the Rainforest Trust, creating a save haven for critically endangered wildlife including the Sumatran tiger, elephant and orangutan and keeping the land lush with C02 loving plants and giving these animals a permanent place to call home.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
Hipsters for Sisters is my full time job, however, I also do some freelance writing on sustainable and ethical fashion.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, Hipsters for Sisters?
Of course, you can reach out to me at contact@hipstersforsisters.com and sign up for our newsletter (http://eepurl.com/F_wv9) to stay in touch with us about upcoming sales, events, and what’s new.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
Thanks so much for taking the time to speak with me about sustainable fashion. So grateful for people like you helping to bring awareness for the need of transparency in the fashion industry, and helping consumers making more responsible and ethical buying decisions.
Thank you for your time, Rachel.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/07
NOW THEN is an ecoluxury swimwear and neoprene label for Ocean minded women in search of a fashionable saltwater attire.
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I was raised in a small town of Navarra, in the North part of Spain.
Since I have memory my two passions have been nature and fashion. I grew up between the fabrics, rough bodies and patterns from my grandmother who was a seamstress. My family gave me the sense of hard working and respect for nature.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I think being raised in the countryside, gives you a special connection with it nature. When I studied my Fashion degree this came to me in an organic way.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
I had a business university background first worked in renewable energies companies as a Buyer. I decided to follow my childhood dream moving to Madrid to study my Fashion Degree. I had some experience working at other Fashion retailers when I decided to start with my own brand. I think it is really interesting to combine both business and creative studies if you want to start your own business.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
I would say being in a direction which you find is the most honest you can get and you can maintain it in the future if the business grows. And an area I would consider very important is have a good communication strategy for spreading all your efforts.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
Well, within the industry I have always been looking at Patagonia, I think they are an example for whoever wants to make a difference. I love their materials innovation and their strong communication power, I also love their spirit, how they build their story and keep honest about what they do now at the time they are massive company.
More from a personal side, my forever heroine is Dr. Sylvia Earle, marine biologist and environmentalist who I admire for her life connected and dedicated to the Ocean.
I also take the opportunity of highlighting someone who I have been enthusiastic about. Afroz Shah is an indian lawyer born in Mumbai. I got to know his work with a huge beach cleanup he organized teaming up with locals for more than a year cleaning up more than 4,000 tons of garbage . One day he decided he did not like what he was seeing from his window view, teamed up with some locals and started to clean up their beach. He started just as an individual and now they achieved a global goal, he has been now awarded by the UN Champions of the Earth award. We spoke about him in a post at our Journal, called “Versova beach of Hope”, this has been the most inspiring, hopeful story I recently came across.
What is NOW_THEN?
NOW_THEN is an Eco Luxury Swimwear and Wetsuits label inspired by the powerful combination of feminity, freedom and Ocean love.
What are some of its feature products?
Our collection features Active-inspired swimwear made with Eco Premium materials such as recycled nylon from discarded fishing nets and marine waste and Petroleum-free neoprene wetsuits. We are also working in a new range of textile accessories collaborating with some artisans. We are always focusing in design, high-end materials, quality and responsibly making.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
We just had our first collection out this 2016 summer and we market our products mainly online. We sell mainly Spain and Europe but we were also thrilled to receive orders from places such as Hawaii, Australia or Virgin Islands!
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
That means everything to this new movement. Rana Plaza was such a disaster and shame to the world, but we need the people to see this reality that some of us have been seeing by visiting factories across these production hot spots. I think the big change will come from the people, all of us have a big power when we decide where to spend our money.
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights?
I worry that this industry is grabbing whichever profitable gap in the world to squeeze it for a margin. We have to end up this.
Child labour and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labour and a few million for child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these other rights violations?
Taking your time to be informed and take action. Not to spend a penny in companies that are violating human and child rights. This is the only solution, because if we are waiting the governments to apply the filters, to solve the problem, it will be too late.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Association is key, we are a lot of small brands trying to make a difference but we will have a bigger voice together at once. I think communication is crucial, because all these companies that are not performing in a good way, spend millions to take the public’s attention.
What topics most interest you?
I am personally interested and involved in Ocean Conservation. I am a diver and I am grateful for the connection I found within, whenever I am into the Ocean I came a more inspired, free-willed and motivated woman.
Did you have a mentor in this work?
Not specially a mentor but I have people I am thankful to find in some amazing people my path that helped me in professional and personal backing.
Have you mentored others?
I do not consider myself a mentor but I collaborate with Istituto Europeo de Design as a teacher to help students about creating a sustainable brand.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
Creating your own brand is a complicated path where you see yourself multi tasking in a crazy way. It is so important to find help of professionals in some areas you are not the best at. Going all alone could be tough.
Also the fact that we can be spending a lot in selecting the most eco friendly materials but to get our message out there, involves a lot of money that small brands do not have. I think we need associations and the industry’s attention to spread our word.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
I think that fashion can empower women. And women can empower a change, not just in fashion, but in the world.
I have been feeling this since I was a little girl, learning my first stitches by my grandma. I do not have much time to make my own things a part from job now, but when I can, I still feel that sewing is kind of therapeutic to me.
I think that Fashion is able to bound powerful women all around the world.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
For me it is important to know that I am working in a project it allows me to be honest in all the ways. No hiding any extra cost over the planet or the people. That makes you feel free.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
I am most of my time busy with NOW_THEN, but I also work as a freelance consultant for specific projects.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
I am reading the book about the story of Yvon Chouinard of Patagonia, “I want my people go surfing”, I am enjoying it, I also want my people at NOW_THEN to go surfing!
Any recommended means of contacting NOW_THEN?
I would be happy to take this conversation further and connect with any interesting soul J please write to: hello@nowthenlabel.com
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
I am thrilled to be able to speak about sustainable fashion and NOW_THEN. Thank you so much and congratulations for Trusted Clothes, we need more association all around the world to speak out our word!
Thank you for your time, Andrea.
Thank you so much for the opportunity ![]()
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/07
Bea was born in Australia as the youngest of 3 kids. She moved to Canada at the age of 7. She worked in the music touring industry for a while. In between the music touring, she designed for her fashion brand Beazworx. She then founded Heke Design. Here is her story.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
Born in Australia, youngest of 3 kids. Moved to Canada at 7 years old
Tell us about your story – education, prior work, and so on?
After high school, I started working in the music touring industry. First as lighting tech, then wardrobe, production, tour manager and personal assistant. Toured for about 20 years all around Europe, Canada, USA, Australia and NZ. Worked with artists like k.d Lang, The Tragically Hip, Colin James, BNL and Leonard Cohen and Diana Krall.
As for my fashion background tho, I’m mostly self taught. I have been sewing since I was 10, and while living in Vancouver I did a short diploma in fashion merchandising.
Then in between touring I managed to design for my Vancouver fashion brand called Beazworx.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I have always been an avid recycler and 2nd hand shopper, so when I learned of the massive amount of clothing thrown out from op shops, I simply HAD to do something about it.
Since I had just moved to New Zealand and was looking for something to do…Heke design began, and I’ve since discovered there is a whole underground, and growing movement of upcyclers all over the world.
What seems like the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
We can not continue to use up the earth’s resources, damage the planet with chemicals and pestisides or exploit workers. So the more designers and companies doing this the more it will become the norm.
What seems like the importance of fair trade?
Caring for and supporting the makers. a general respect for all humans is just the right thing to do.
What makes slow fashion better than fast fashion?
The craft.
Slow fashion cares about the story behind the garment, there is a respect for the clothing, the craft and the maker.
The Brundtland Commission Report described the need for sustainability. In that, we, the human species, need to meet the “needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs” for long-term sustainability. Does this seem correct to you?
I think we have more than enough to meet our needs (with-out compromising the future), but the issue is our imaginary “needs” that are fueled by the corporate marketing machines.
What is Heke Design?
Heke design is an upcycled, one of a kind, affordable, colourful eco fashion.
What inspired the title of the organization?
I live on Waiheke island, so heke comes from that.
heke is a maori word meaning” to descend, migrate, coming to.” and Wai is water
What are some of its feature products?
Our hoody top is a popular one, I do a summer and winter version, Colourful with lots of interesting prints and T shirt images. Also the all wool sweatercoat.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
I use a lot of cotton T shirts, wool jumpers, jeans. For me, its about seeing what items are being thrown out en masse, and making them beautiful.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Heke Design?
I design everything.
What is the customer base – the demographics?
Women about 30-60. Usually with a definite eco interest, but also women that want something unique and colourful.
Did someone mentor you?
Not really, but I do have a business coach, and several supportive friends and fellow designers
Have you mentored others?
Not in an official way; although, I’ve had a few students approach me, and I’m always happy to offer any support and consulting to any upcyclers, I certainly love the collaborative brainstorming that can happen with artistic projects.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
The satisfaction of knowing how much i am keeping out of the landfill.
Any other work at this time?
I do some teaching and upcycle workshops.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, you?
Email. beazworx@gmail.com.
What seems like the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
Sometimes its overwhelming, the amount of waste, and i just can not take it all.
Thank you for your time, Bea
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/06
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
My great great grandfather opened a little haberdashery in Granollers, a city near Barcelona. His son called Amadeu took over the business and started to manufacture knit clothing in a small manufactory. I recently found some drawings and notes of the original designs of his sweaters from the 1930´s (attached IAIO amadeu). Since then, my father’s family worked in the textile industry, (I am the 5th generation).
IAIOS Brand was first created by my father in the 90´s, he was making t-shirts and sweaters but he was forced to close the production when the crisis of the textile affected the Catalan and Spanish textile industry. The local/foreign competition (multinationals) was so strong that it was not possible to produce locally anymore.
Last year I decided to make the revival of the Brand with a sustainable and ethical concept. IAIOS is made in by a local, small manufactory with regenerated wool.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
I studied Art in Barcelona, my work was specialized in video art and decide to live in Mexico and in Germany. When I came back to Barcelona I was not sure what to do next, so I decided to start again something new with a focus on social values.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I grew up in the shop of my father, so I have been connected to the fashion world all my live. When the economic crisis hit Spain, it was difficult for my family. This made me think about our choices and decisions. I realized how neocapitalism centralizes the money into the hands of a few while the rest have to work hard and lose more and more rights everyday. The consumer has the power to decide the world he wants to live in and I was completely sure about the kind of system I did not want.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
I think my art studies are very helpful in my work, especially in my brand communication.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
I don’t think fashion designers and companies have to change people’s mind or teach them what to do. Each one should work on thinking which way they have to make this world a bit better, mine is through fashion. The small initiatives, the unknown people, the anonymous consumers are the ones who can change something.
The actual system is not sustainable by itself and there is a lot of people who is already realizing this. To give my money to fair trade companies and offer an alternative fashion product with quality, style and ethical values, in this crucial moments, should be enough for me.
What is the importance of fair trade?
It is the alternative to the actual system, which is unfair and non sense. Fair trade is the way to build a sustainable economy based on people. I am aware that there is a lot of work to be done concerning this issue because it means that we have to transform the current global structure.
What is IAIOS?
IAIOS is a brand of sweaters made with regenerated wool, that means that we use the surplus of other confections and we recycle it to make thread. IAIOS sweaters are made in local manufactories, which respect the rights of workers and reactivate the textile industry of the region that has suffered a lot from the new aggressive models of commerce.
What inspired the title of the organization?
IAIOS was the name of my father’s Brand. I decided to take the name of the Brand and apply a new fresh and modern concept.IAIOS is a name that we use in Spain to speak affectionately about an old person. That is why every sweater of the IAIOS collection is identified with an “old” person like artists, writers, philosophers and wise people who were able to leave a mark on our history and bring good things to the world.
I like the idea of how you can wear a Louise Bourgeois or a Víktor Korchnoi sweater because it lets you appreciate the value of wisdom and durable things made with care and consciousness for the environment.
What are some of its feature products?
I just make sweaters. I prefer to do a high quality product that is made to least long time than make a big collection. A IAIOS is just a basic sweater made with consciousness and ethics which fits with almost everything. But at the same time it is modern and stylish.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
The regenerated wool is a material made with recycled wool recovered from other confections. The wool is collected and separated by colours before it is being crushed and mixed with artificial fibres. With this mix, it is possible to achieve the twisting of the thread needed to start the knitting process.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of IAIOS?
The thread comes from a small manufactory in Olot, a region in Catalunya with textile tradition. The sweater is knitted and readymade in Igualada. An historical tissue industrial city of Catalunya that suffered much with the closure of the factories during the crisis of the textile industry. The tags are made in Mataró, the merchandising in Granollers and I design the sweaters and communicate the Brand from Barcelona.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
No, the artificial fibres will not biodegrade but they can be recycled.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
My customers come from Spain, most of them in Barcelona. (at the moment)
What topics most interest you?
Sustainable clothing (and Human rights).
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). How do tragedies shed light on work conditions in garment factories?
It is sad that only when those tragedies happen the press and public opinion talk about the unfair and critical situation of these people.
Women and children remain the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
The ethical fashion is supposed to respect all human rights.
Who is a women’s rights and children’s rights activist or campaigner hero for you?
I was in Lesvos last summer as a volunteer for the refugees crisis. I knew many people working in projects who protect children and women who arrived to the isle. They are hero’s.
The Gender Inequality Index (GII) relates to the empowerment of women, gender equality, and international women’s rights. The progress for gender equity is positive. Regressive forces exist in explicit and implicit forms. What seem like some of the explicit and implicit forms observed in personal and professional life to you?
Women are in a disadvantage in their Jobs in Spain. For example the salary of the Spanish men is 19.3% higher than the women’s. Especially with the pregnancy issue, women have to go through difficult situations regarding their professional career. Last year our government tried to make abortion illegal. Being a single woman is kind of difficult in some situations of our normal life too.
Child labor and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labor. A few million children in the case of child slavery. According to the Minimum Age Convention (1973), labor before the age of 14, 15, or 16, dependent upon the country, is child labor. The Convention on the Rights of the Child (1989) represent the importance of children’s rights on the ‘international stage’ in Article 2(2), Article 3(1), and Article 3(2). In addition, International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights (1966) in Article 24(1-3) and International Covenant on Economic, Social and Cultural Rights (1966) in Article 10(3) delineate the importance of children’s rights too. These stipulations about equality remain violated in the fashion industry, especially the manufacturing sector or the garment industry. How can individuals get the word out about these extreme children’s rights violations?
One of the perks of today’s technological advancement is the fact that we can access and distribute information more easily. We should use this technology for spreading such information not looking at cat videos.
What mass movements or social movements can fight for the implementation of the children’s rights outside of the fashion industry?
Every mass movement starts from the individual. The Fashion industry is a part of our rigged economic system; there are many places in which children´s rights are violated, not just in the fashion industry.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations, women and children, in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
We should not only be ethical, also communicative and transparent in all aspects, so we can lead by example.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why? What might make men more involved in the fashion world in general?
To be honest, I do not think that is the case, if there is a gender difference in some countries, and then it is a cultural thing. I personally know a lot of men working in the fashion industry, also in my own family. It is true that in Spain for example most of the seamstresses are women, but I think it is something that has to do with the education the people received in Spain during the dictatorship of Franco (the women’s and men’s work were very sexist). But for example in Africa most of them are men.
What personal fulfilment comes from this work for you?
Every time I sell a IAIOS I steal a sale from Zara.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
I organize conferences in my father’s shop about different issues (for free). I work in communication for some retails and I am always taking courses about various topics to learn new ways and improve myself.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
I recommend the program “Fashion Victims” from Jordi Évole in Salvados TV program:
http://www.lasexta.com/temas/salvados_fashion_victims-1
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, IAIOS?
I have information in my website and I also post videos and pictures about my sweaters and the way they are manufactured.
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
Consistency and constancy.
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in personal life for you?
The refugee crisis in Europe makes me so angry!
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
Gramschi… I also like Situationism.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
Thank you for your interest in my work. It is very important what you are doing, so I want to give you my congratulations.
Thank you for your time, Gemma.
Thank you!
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/05
Sutter Larkin believes that a positive image on the outside starts with feeling good on the inside. To get there, one-of-a kind designs are used to bring out the best in each individual who puts on a Sutter Larkin ensemble.
Head designer, Carrie Asby, brings Sutter Larkin to life by mixing colors and textures unexpectedly and creating harmonious results. Each design had its own playful twist. Read more in our interview below.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
I was raised in the beautiful state of Oregon. My parents are outdoor enthusiasts and have respect for our role on this planet. “Take only memories; leave only footprints” was taught to me at a very young age. My mother also taught alternative energy to high school students through the Oregon Museum of Science and Industry. In our house, we didn’t just talk about the 3 R’s (reducing, reusing and recycling) we lived it. Being an environmentalist is not a title for me; it’s who I am.
Tell us about your story – education, prior work, and so on?
I’ve known that I’ve always wanted to be a designer. Right out of high school I moved to San Francisco to make an attempt. I wasn’t ready for it and got totally overwhelmed; I was 18 without any experience. With my tail between my legs, I returned to OR. I ended up getting into advertising.
After attending Burning Man in 2008, clothing design found its way back into my life. I was making costumes for the event as a way to express myself. I started wearing some of those items out.
20 years after I left San Francisco, I returned. This time wiser, with more life experience. One night out, my entire ensemble was designed and created by me. We were in a bar directly across the street from wear I lived when I was 18. A woman approached me, inquiring about my outfit. She was convinced I was an established designer.
That was my sign to get back into fashion. So I left my 20-year career in advertising and dove right in.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
There wasn’t another option for me, really. Being an environmentalist is who I am. Designing clothes is what I do. First starting out, I was surrounded by eco-designers, too. We were a community supporting each other and growing together. They definitely influenced me.
What makes slow fashion better than fast fashion?
First there’s the bottom line: you get a better return on your dollar spent. Slow fashion is better quality and will last longer. Slow fashion also tends to be local which helps with community and employment. It also has the ability to adapt and adjust; nimbler.
Climate change represents one of the biggest medium- to long-term threats to human survival in reasonable forms. The Government of Canada, NASA, the David Suzuki Foundation, The Royal Society, The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, and numerous others discuss this. Ethical and sustainable fashion relates to it. The reductions in hydrocarbon production from sustainable materials seem imperative sustain the further deterioration of the atmosphere, the biosphere, and the environment. What seems like the responsibilities of ethical and sustainable fashion companies in the prevention of climate catastrophe?
Fast Fashion is the second dirtiest industry in the world, next to big oil. That pretty much sums it up, doesn’t it? If the fashion industry evolved to sustainable practices, images the impact.
What is Sutter Larkin?
Sutter Larkin celebrates individuals, not the masses. I create one-of-a-kind garments that enhance your one-of-a-kind style. Every piece as unique as the person who wears it.
As part of my “thoughtful design” practices and the love of this beautiful planet, I only work with responsibly purchased materials. This could be either rescued cast-offs or up-cycled vintage gems. I take the unwanted and turn them into the wanted.
What inspired the title of the organization?
Sutter and Larkin are two streets in San Francisco that cross. On that corner I failed as a designer. 20 years later, on that same corner, I was discovered as a designer. That’s where I get the same of my line, Sutter Larkin.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
I try to work with all natural fibers as much as I can. However, my first protocol is that they are being prevented from going into the landfill.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Sutter Larkin?
As of now, I do it all. I design for the collection then collect the materials. All of this is done be foot, bike or public transportation. I clean with vinegar and backing soda and air dry as much as possible. I cut, sew and assemble, as well as tag. Then I photograph and write text for each item and post to my store. Last, I market as much as I can.
Did someone mentor you?
No. I learned everything from rolling up my sleeves and diving right in.
Have you mentored others?
Not yet, but I plan to.
What might make men more involved in the fashion world in general?
More involved? I would say that men are heavily involved already. Despite the fact that most fashion brands are catering mostly to women, very few are led by them.
What might make men more involved in the ethical and sustainable fashion world in general?
The bottom line. Educating them on eco approaches that will be more profitable in the end.
Will having men in the discussion and on-the-ground improve the implementation of children’s and women’s rights?
Absolutely.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
When my fans send me notes on how they got stopped on the street because of the way they were carrying themselves; they were walking with confidence because they were wearing a Sutter Larkin just for them. I love hearing how good they feel.
Any other work at this time?
I teach yoga and style, as well.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Stacy London.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, you?
Right now, I would love consultation on how to get in front of my audience. Email is the best approach. carrie@SutterLarkin.com
What seems like the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
Getting my collections in front of the right market; having people understand the price and value it.
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
Yoga.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
A lot of content/questions. Are you familiar with the book Made to Stick? It’s a great guide to getting ideas/messages across clearly and concise. It’s a great read. I highly recommend it.
Thank you for your time, Carrie.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/30
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
I was born in UK and lived in Leicester until I went to Art school at 21 in London. My parents were teachers and we were brought up as atheists with a strong social philosophy, my parents did a lot of voluntary and charity work which we were very aware of and helped with.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
I was always inspired by colour and pattern and theatre and joined a drama group very early on. I was lucky to be able to study theatre design at school and knew that’s what I wanted to do for my degree. At art school, while I was studying in London, I was given opportunities to do work experience on some films and made contacts in the industry.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
After having children, I knew going back into films was logistically too difficult and the environmental cost of making big budget films was too much for me to deal with at that time. I had always wanted to design pyjamas and when I researched how to make it happen I started to learn about how bad the fashion industry is
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
The most important thing working in films taught me was that you have to be a problem solver and every new project needed a completely new and innovative solution. This gave me a great base for solving the environmental problems I came up against in my fashion business.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
They are imperative to move the industry forward. Whether they do everything from behind the scenes of they sing it from the rooftops, every little bit helps.
What is the importance of fair trade?
I like the Fair Trade model because it places the importance on the lives of all who come into contact with it. The profits are secondary and this to me is the right way around.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
I am very inspired by Safia Minney from People Tree. She has achieved what I would like to in the future and she has shown me that it is possible to run a successful business and have big philosophies.
What is Moonbird Designs?
Moonbird designs loungewear, sleepwear and bedlinen for Adults and children, and now we do breastfeeding tops. We aim to increase our ranges to include daywear and swimwear in the next year or so.
Moonbird loungewear is made using GOTS certified organic cotton.
What inspired the title of the organization?
Birds have wings and can fly free, we like to think freedom to do what you want is at the heart of our business and Moon because we started with pyjamas.
What are some of its feature products?
Pyjamas, nighties, dressing gowns, adults and kids. Bedlinen and blankets and breastfeeding tops.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
Organic cotton only with a blend of lycra for our jersey tops.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Moonbird Designs?
The cotton is grown in southern India and some of it is hand woven in Hyderabad. The rest is printed and manufactured in Jaipur and Lucknow.
Moonbird works with fabulous women in Sydney and in India.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
Yes, all apart from the lycra content, which we have had to add to give longevity to our garments and flexibility with designing.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Women over 30.
What topics most interest you?
I find it hard to pick one! I am very fired up about so many things. Healthy body image, LGBTQI equality issues, the environment, over use of plastics on our food. The list is endless.
Did you have a mentor in this work?
I have had a few and they are invaluable. I’m always looking to learn from people but in lots of ways because we are forging new territory every day we have to take lots of chances on things because they haven’t been done before.
Have you mentored others?
Yes, in small ways. I don’t have enough time to mentor anyone, but I love to give advice when I am asked.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
They are incredibly important but as I said before it’s important to move away from the old ways of doing things because if you don’t then you are just following the broken system. The fashion industry is the second biggest polluter in the world and we need to own our part in it and design a new way of doing things.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). How do tragedies shed light on work conditions in garment factories?
They bring them into the news and then people become aware. There will be more tragedies in the future because the consumer is still feeding the beast. Until we change our shopping habits they will keep producing garments in this way that causes such horror.
Women and children remain the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
The gender equality gap is still large here in Australia and until we address the problems at home we cannot hope to improve the lives of those working in garment factories in 3rd world countries. The careers that usually employ women are often the lowest paid. Childcare workers are a case in point. It has always struck me as an idiotic idea that the people who are in charge of your most precious possession should be paid less per hour than your mechanic. What is more important? the education of your child or your car? But because childcare was always seen as a woman’s job it is paid minimally.
Who is a women’s rights and children’s rights activist or campaigner hero for you?
Malala Yousafzai. Her bravery and focused determination to give all girls a voice and an education inspires me.
The Gender Inequality Index (GII) relates to the empowerment of women, gender equality, and international women’s rights. The progress for gender equity is positive. Regressive forces exist in explicit and implicit forms. What seem like some of the explicit and implicit forms observed in personal and professional life to you?
Last night I watched the documentary ‘Embrace’ on body image. You only have to watch that film to see how completely rife the self-hatred of our (women’s) bodies is. It broke my heart to realise that girls are all their time thinking that they’re not good enough. No wonder that they find it difficult to speak up for themselves, at work, in relationships, in discussions. We think that we’re making progress but we have a very long way to go.
The development of capacities and freedoms for women are restricted through violation of fundamental rights. GII has three parts: economic status, empowerment, and reproductive health. Empowerment is measured by proportion of parliamentary seats occupied by women, and the proportion of adult women and men (age 25 and older) with some secondary education. Economic status is measured by the labor force participation rate of women and men aged 15 and older. Reproductive health is measured by maternal mortality ratio and adolescent birthrates. If women had access and implementation of these fundamental human rights, would their livelihood and quality of life, even working life in the garment factories, improve?
Yes, without a doubt.
Two factors seem to matter in the discussion of gender equality in societies: economies and rights. Many girls and women, especially in developing nations, face disadvantages unknown, or less well-known, to boys and men. Women face discrimination in education, health, the labor market, legal status, political representation, and reproductive rights. When women lose, everyone – boys, girls, men, and women – loses. What might bring this basic fact, with ubiquitous positive consequences, into the public discourse in ‘developed’ and ‘developing’ nations?
I would love to see a comparison chart for all countries in the world showing the laws that govern the status and rights of women. There are laws in every country that would shock people to know how the rights of women are restricted.
A few years ago I found out that in Italy if a woman owns a property by solely, that when she wants to sell it she has to get her husband’s permission! (This may have changed but was the case 10 years ago.) These unfair laws are the kind of thing that teach women that they are not equal.
According to Global Affairs Canada (Government of Canada) in the article entitled Women’s Economic Empowerment: Guidance Note (2016), women comprise 1/3 of formal business owners, 2/5 of the global workforce, and have responsibility for 8/10 of spending for consumers. Economies and societies lose potential “development and growth” without women. Possible national moral authority lost, too. Rights and economies imply each another. Rights for girls and women develops economies and, therefore, societies. Likewise, economic and societal development gives grounds for implementation of girl’s and women’s rights. What educational campaigns and pragmatic initiatives might the fashion industry encourage and support to improve the chances for girls and women?
The fashion industry has on the whole contributed to the problem of women’s self worth and ultimately their disempowerment. Their continued use of thin white models has given generations of girls the idea that their worth is related to their physical appearance. The tide is beginning to change though and hopefully it will become a tsunami.
According to the Minimum Age Convention (1973), labor before the age of 14, 15, or 16, dependent upon the country, is child labor. Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. Women bear the burden of childbirth in addition to the majority of childcare in the world. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights, and the fashion industry?
It shouldn’t be just up to the fashion industry to bear the brunt on this. I would like to see other industries where the majority of their products are manufactured in developing countries start the conversations about who makes their products. For example, gifts and electronics. Why can’t we start to have TV’s that make their casings from recycled plastic? Why can’t we have christmas decorations made with safe paints and recycled metal/plastics. Until we as consumers start asking brands for this they won’t change their practises.
Child labor and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labor. A few million children in the case of child slavery. According to the Minimum Age Convention (1973), labor before the age of 14, 15, or 16, dependent upon the country, is child labor. The Convention on the Rights of the Child (1989) represent the importance of children’s rights on the ‘international stage’ in Article 2(2), Article 3(1), and Article 3(2). In addition, International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights (1966) in Article 24(1-3) and International Covenant on Economic, Social and Cultural Rights (1966) in Article 10(3) delineate the importance of children’s rights too. These stipulations about equality remain violated in the fashion industry, especially the manufacturing sector or the garment industry. How can individuals get the word out about these extreme children’s rights violations?
There is a fine line between bashing consumers round the head with all these appalling stories and facts and educating them, so my vote would be for making ethical and sustainable fashion education mandatory in every fashion college. If we can educate the designers they can’t pretend they didn’t know.
What mass movements or social movements can fight for the implementation of the children’s rights outside of the fashion industry?
People power. Facebook has the power to change the world by uniting people everywhere through businesses, blogs and friendship groups. Never again will people be alone in their thoughts. We can now find like minded people everywhere and educate our friends.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
It ticks all my boxes, social justice, art, colour and the environment. All of these things are equally important to me.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
Being a Mum to my beautiful kids, they fill me with joy every day.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Author Lisa Heinze. She wrote ‘Sustainability with Style’. She writes about her journey to consciousness which made me laugh and cry and was so similar to my own.
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
Believing in myself!
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in personal life for you?
Anxiety. If I didn’t have such strong beliefs I would have packed it all up years ago, but I am too determined to make a difference, I didn’t want to let the worries hold me back in the end.
Thank you for your time, Rachel.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/30
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
I am Canadian, but am married to a Brit, so now make my home in the UK. We have four children between us. The Fableists is a family business.
Tell us about your story – education, prior work, and so on?
I met my husband working in the advertising industry. We still have a business in that area, covering news stories about global advertising and commercial production, as well as connecting people to work on projects.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
We have always tried to buy well, whether it was food, beauty products, or fashion. We are not fans of the disposable, like a bit of provenance and are drawn to vintage items for our home and what we wear. We did not set out on a mission to make ethical and sustainable clothing, we just wanted to make nice clothes that were built to last and that could take all the abuse that children hurl at their clothes. The clothes available to buy for our children all just seemed to have such shoddy craftsmanship. It initially started because we wanted clothes that would last down the line of four children, regardless of gender. When we started to research having clothes made, we came across a lot of information about ethics and sustainability. We could not stand the idea that if we weren’t careful children somewhere could be making clothes for our children.
What seems like the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies? What seems like the importance of fair trade? What seems like the importance of a (relative to the country) living wage?
As far as I’m concerned, fair trade, living wages and sustainability are just how anyone should do business. We wanted to produce a quality product that we would feel good about putting on our own children. I don’t know how anyone could think differently, if I’m honest. Countries like the UK began outsourcing manufacturing to other countries, where things could be made more cheaply. Now Britain has lost those trades altogether, so all the skilled labour is in the so-called Third World Countries. We researched having our clothes made in Britain and everyone advised us to get them made in India because that is where the skill is – not because it’s cheaper. Regardless of laws, or watch dogs, we should just be paying a fair price for a product or service that we simply cannot get at home.
As for the certification that you can apply to have on your products, I’m not a massive fan. The factory that we use in India is certified by Fair Trade and GOTS. They have to pay every year to have these certificates up to date – and it’s expensive. I would rather see the money they spend for their badge being put in to something more valuable but they cannot continue to do the work they do without the badge.
The Fableists have not paid to have our items certified by any organisation but make sure that all of our suppliers have the certification and we have inspected the factories ourselves. We haven’t done that to earn a badge but to make sure that we are working with people that we can trust and therefore make products that we can believe in.
What makes slow fashion better than fast fashion?
On the superficial side, the clothes are better made and more original. Makers who care about quality generally also care about provenance. I applaud all the high street brands adding sustainable lines to their ranges but at the end of the day, anyone making and selling mass quantities of clothing is profiting at the expense of someone else.
What is the importance of animal rights, especially in an ethical and sustainable fashion context?
I think that a lot of people would see it as hypocritical of me to comment because I am a meat eater.
Climate change represents one of the biggest medium- to long-term threats to human survival in reasonable forms. The Government of Canada, NASA, the David Suzuki Foundation, The Royal Society, The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, and numerous others discuss this. Ethical and sustainable fashion relates to it. The reductions in hydrocarbon production from sustainable materials seem imperative sustain the further deterioration of the atmosphere, the biosphere, and the environment. What seems like the responsibilities of ethical and sustainable fashion companies in the prevention of climate catastrophe?
Everyone has a responsibility to do what they can to prevent climate change, and businesses should be held accountable for any damage that they do to the local environment where they manufacture clothing. Any environmental damage also affects the lives of the people living in the area. We use only organic cotton in our clothing in order to reduce the damage done to the land where the cotton is grown. Cotton requires a lot of water but the cotton we use is grown in monsoon-fed regions of India. The company that makes our t-shirts has been certified Carbon Neutral. These factories and companies were not difficult to find.
The Brundtland Commission Report described the need for sustainability. In that, we, the human species, need to meet the “needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs” for long-term sustainability. Does this seem correct to you?
One of my favourite chapters in the story of The Fableists is that the cotton we use is grown by a collective of organic farmers. These are small holding, family farms that would not have been able to survive without the collective. Farming in India has a suicide rate that is well-documented. Farmers cannot battle the cycle of debt on their own. They are not getting enough for their crops to sustain their farms. On top of that, they are using harmful chemicals that are being stored close to humans and livestock. The Collective has taught them organic farming principles, so that they can earn a higher rate for their produce. They have taught them to diversity their crops, more efficiently farm the land, and also to care for the land, with rotating crop cycles. The Collective supports the farmers in order to maintain farming in their country.
How can ethical and sustainable fashion contribute to the long-term sustainable future for the atmosphere, the biosphere, and the environment?
I think that consumers don’t want to hear about ethics and sustainability. They are more concerned with how much they have than worrying about what they have. There has to be a sea change in the way that people think and act. So those in ethical and sustainable fashion need to focus on making more approachable and available clothing, rather than statement fashion.
The Sustainable Apparel Coalition invented The Higg Index. It assesses some products’ sustainability throughout the products’ lifecycle. The European Outdoor Group and the Outdoor Industry Association developed an index of products’ impacts on the environment throughout their lifecycle, the Eco Index. Large regions with serious attempts to implement standards and quantitative analysis of sustainability of products throughout their lifecycle. Certifications, or standards and labelling, remain important, which associate with analysis. These include Fairtrade International, MADE-BY, the Ethical Trading Initiative Base Code, the Soil Association label and the EKOlabel, the Oko-Tex standard 100 mark, and the European Eco-Label for Textile Products, and more. There’s many. Do these help systematize and clarify, or obfuscate and confuse?
I think that they are useful so that consumers know what they are buying but being rated, certified or included is so expensive and there are new standards being created all the time that it just becomes hard work and impossible for the producer. I also think that the vast majority of consumers know nothing of what these are, apart from Fair Trade.
The Ethical Fashion Forum developed the Ethical Policy Framework. An ethical policy framework tool for those devoted to enactment of ethical and sustainable purchases, production, and business decisions. What do services such as these perform for the public, consumers, producers, and businesspeople?
I think the biggest problem is that most consumers have no idea about any of these initiatives, or even that what they are buying could contravene any kind of ethical policies.
What is The Fableists?
Sustainably made clothing for children that is well made and made well. The clothes are built for children to be children in. They are tough and beautiful. They are inspired by vintage workwear. We love the story of OshKosh, who initially made work wear. They decided to do a limited range of their engineer stripe dungarees so that children could ‘dress like dad’. The demand was huge, so they launched an entire range for children. In the creative industry, which is our background, a lot of people dress in clothes that resemble our range. On the day of our photoshoot, my daughter had an outfit assigned to her. When she put it on, we realized that she was wearing exactly what her father was wearing that day.
What inspired the title of the organization?
We tell the story of our clothes. And it’s a story with a moral.
What are some of its feature products?
Artist-designed and limited edition t-shirts and denim shirts, dresses, skirts, jeans and jackets. Super soft cotton tops in classic designs that are reminiscent of our own 1970s childhoods when kids were just allowed to be kids.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
Organic cotton.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of The Fableists?
We come up with the designs and then hire someone to make the patterns for us. The samples are tried out by our own children. The cotton is grown and harvested by small hold farmers in India who are part of a collective of organic farmers. The clothes are manufactured by a factory in India that is certified by GOTS and Fair Trade. The factory and the collective have reciprocal ownership in each other’s enterprise in an effort to help bolster their effort to keep high quality, ethical manufacture and sustainable production alive and well (and growing) in India.
Water use in production is an issue. What is the importance of reducing excess water use in the production of fashion?
The farms and factories are all located in monsoon-fed regions of India.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
Yes. Of course, this will take time. We have also made sure that our clothes will last. Each item comes with its own ‘passport’ so that children can record their names and the dates that they owned the products. They are meant to be passed on to another child.
What is the customer base – the demographics?
I have no idea! We sell online, so I don’t know who any of the people are but they are mostly in the UK. We also have stockists in The Netherlands, Switzerland, Canada and Singapore.
Did someone mentor you?
No. In fact, not seeking more advice from those with the knowledge was our biggest mistake and has cost us immensely.
Have you mentored others?
My husband has worked with the WWF, speaking to the students in their university programmes in France and the UK.
What seems like the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional and personal development?
It is key. Had we sought advice, we would have done a lot of things differently and our business model would have been completely different. We created this as a passion project more than a business.
The Triple Bottom Line defines three performance dimensions: the social, environmental, and commercial/financial. In contradistinction to the standard commercial/financial analysis alone, the Triple Bottom Line incorporates environmental and social performance too. Why should ethical and sustainable (and other) fashion designers and companies include the Triple Bottom Line analysis in individual and business performance?
We put all of our emphasis on the social and environmental and as such our business has not been profitable! The sustainable fashion world is very closed off, from our experience. There are many experts at the centre of the UK industry but they are very difficult to be in touch with. Having the support of someone from the beginning could really have helped us to get our product off the ground. We have had some unbelievable press and have two lovely films for our company but because we have not been willing or able to pay for membership in many organisations, we have not been able to gain any support. I think this is really the wrong way to promote something as important as sustainable fashion.
Thank you for your time, Sarah.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/27
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
I grew up on picturesque and pristine sheep farming high country on the edge of the southern Alps in the South Island of New Zealand. Until relatively recently New Zealand was primarily bicultural, with our First Nation people the Maori having arrived here first, then came settlers from United Kingdom. My forbears arrived from UK in two of the first four ships of European settlers to arrive in New Zealand. I spoke English as did everyone around me, only recently have I been learning some Maori language.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
I initially went to the local one room country school, reached by quite a long walk then a school bus trip, then at eight years old I was sent to boarding school in Christchurch, a city 100K away. As a child I had an idyllic life in the high country, swimming in crystal clear rivers; with a clear blue sky and surrounded by nature. I graduated as a registered nurse then went to work in cardiology until my first child was born.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I had started my business soon after our second child was born, and was exporting to other countries very soon after. As I travelled around the world selling our knitwear visiting each country and area once a year I was watching I could see the environmental degradation going on, and I became really concerned about the trajectory the planet was on. I was also concerned at what our industry was doing to the planet, in particular cotton growing.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
Very little! I was selling dressed soft toys at the age of 12; and I designed and made all my own clothes but from there is has all been learning as I go. I started in business there were very few women in business here, and women were not well regarded as a good business risk. It was a little bit tough to overcome these issues.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
It is tougher to run a sustainable business and was much tougher back in the late 90’s and even the 00’s, but it is absolutely essential that sustainable and ethical fashion designers and businesses have pioneered a way for others to follow, as business is now the most powerful vehicle for change in the world, where once before it was government or religion.
What is the importance of fair trade?
Exploitation of workers is incredibly short sighted on every level.
What is Untouched World?
Untouched World is a casual luxury lifestyle brand based on a foundation of sustainability. The core of our collections is based around natural fibre knitwear, which we produce ourselves here in New Zealand, and our aesthetic is less is more, minimal.
What inspired the title of the organization?
Untouched World started out as a certified organic undyed mid micron wool collection of knitwear way back in 1996. The name spoke to us of what we would like to make a contribution to achieve for the world.
What are some of its feature products?
We are known for our knitwear in luxury fibres that stand the test of time, fibres that deliver the garments that have longevity, with lightness and high performance characteristics, we have some innovative yarns and use a lot of fine beautifully high quality New Zealand merino grown with minimal intervention in the Southern Alps.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
We use mostly New Zealand merino and possum fibre, along with some organic cotton. We are constantly looking into new sustainable fibres.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Untouched World?
The merino wool and possum, raw materials are grown in New Zealand, designed in New Zealand, knitted by us here in New Zealand. Possum fibre is a recovered fibre which would otherwise waste, possums are an ecological threat to New Zealand and there are government eradication programmes to reduce numbers. Possums were introduced from Australia and populations have exploded. We spent several years developing a blend of possum and merino which is truly sensational.
For our organic cotton Project U garments, we make them from certified organic cotton grown in India, and made by women in India who are being given a trade to get them out of sexual slavery, they are paid well, above the living wage; their children are offered education and there are development programmes for the women.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
We do a full lifecycle analysis on all our products and the bulk of our products will biodegrade, and if they don’t they will recycle.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
We sell from 18 years all the way up, but 35 to 50 is our core age group of customers. Our customer base is about an attitude to life and the world, rather than an age demographic. Our customers are generally busy people, travel a lot, are globally aware, and want clothes that multitask I style right across the day, and with ease across climates.
What topics most interest you?
I love art and design, outside of this my number one interest is water.
Untouched world funds a Charitable Trust which concepts and delivers leadership for a sustainable future programmes for young adults. Two of our four programmes are called Waterwise. We are a founding member of the UNESCO GAP programme and on their website as one of three global exemplars in ESD.
Have you mentored others?
Yes, constantly mentoring both in fashion and sustainability
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
Phew this is a thesis!
Cheers
Peri
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/22
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I received my B.A. from UCLA in Design | Media Arts, where I began developing my interest in fashion and working at several fashion internships in LA.
I then began my career as a UX Visual Designer in the San Francisco/Bay Area while studying Fashion Design and Patternmaking. After several years of creating clean user experiences for clients in the e-commerce market, I felt ready to translate that knowledge into my own online store. 1×1, a clothing line I had been formulating for years, began when I moved back to Los Angeles one year ago.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I started my line knowing I wanted to manufacture locally, and was incredibly lucky to meet with factories that delivered high quality services and directed me to some amazing sustainable material sources.
Our wool source, Imperial Stock Ranch is a great example of this. After hearing their story, it’s hard not to want to work with them. They have adapted sustainable farming practices that reduce erosion and fossil fuels, improve stream water quality and benefit local fish and wildlife populations.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
Working to solve UI/UX challenges for large ecommerce sites, I had the invaluable experience of learning what makes a customer comfortable in a digital space and what encourages them to click the buy button.
I also observed my coworker’s online buying habits. Working in a creative office in San Francisco, people are excited to discover new products and brands. As a result, the designs for 1×1 are largely inspired by the people I worked with — creative individuals who value quality over quantity and are looking for something timeless yet unique to reflect their own personal style. Wardrobe staples they’ll want to reach for again and again.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
More and more, consumers are becoming aware of the truth behind fast fashion: unfair wages and conditions for workers, and the excessive waste this trend produces.
Sustainable brands can begin a dialogue with customers and offer alternatives, but they are still hard pressed to compete with the low prices that come from fast fashion practices. To see impactful change throughout the industry as a whole, larger companies need to step up and make changes.
H&M’s sustainable line, or ASOS’s Eco Edit show that companies are eager to market sustainability to consumers, but it’s hard to gather exactly what they have done to take significant steps towards fair labor or waste reduction. However, it does show us that there is a demand among consumers to have sustainable options, and they may be encouraged to research products before purchasing.
What is 1×1?
We select some of our favorite wardrobe staples and design and release them — one by one.
Sustainability and local manufacturing are at the heart of what we do. We source ecologically responsible materials whenever possible, and we want our customers to know our product’s stories. Releasing items one at a time helps tell that story.
We don’t follow the traditional fashion calendar, releasing Autumn in the Summer and Spring in the Winter. Instead, we create items when inspiration strikes, hand in hand with local manufacturers. This allows us to have fast turnaround times, and create timeless fashions that are relevant all year round.
What are some of its feature products?
Right now we have two collections available: Wool and Shirts.
Our wool collection was our first release. It features 100% sustainable wool from Oregon.
By supporting farmers who produce a beautiful, quality product in a sustainable way, we are stimulating an industry that has been in steady decline since the 1940s. The United States used to be the world’s fifth largest wool producer. Today, it accounts for less than 1% of wool production.
Our shirts are an essential collection of crisp, minimal designs. The fabric we use is a Tencel/Rayon blend that is very soft to the touch with a nice drape. Tencel is a sustainable fabric that is regenerated from wood cellulose. It is similar in touch to rayon and bamboo, both regenerated fabrics.
What topics most interest you?
Design, Innovative Fashion Technology, Sustainable Materials
Did you have a mentor in this work?
Suzy Furrer, Founder and Director of Apparel Arts where I studied Pattern Making and Design, is an amazing teacher who is giving students practical tools they can use to become employed by the industry or start their own business. I found her courses incredibly inspiring, as well as the support from all the teachers in this program.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
While fashion is an industry where women make up an overwhelming majority of the consumer base, men are still disproportionately dominating leadership roles in fashion.
“Even though women are entering the industry at the bottom, they are not rising proportionally to the top,” wrote Eric Wilson in a 2005 column for the New York Times. Over a decade later, things have unfortunately not changed.
Business of Fashion analyzed the proportions of male and female designers for the Spring/Summer 2017 Fashion week season—they found there were more male designers creating women’s clothing than women. Julie de Libran, artistic director of Sonia Rykiel remarked “Women unfortunately are still seen as a minority…even if certain fashion houses were created by women at their time, today they often have creative leaders that are men.”
So why do we see a lack of women at the executive level? Some believe there is a correlation between fewer female designers leading companies and men’s current majority holding of executive positions. Although this is the overwhelming trend in most industries, we can hope that women will begin to obtain more leadership positions in an industry that speaks directly to their sense of style and self expression.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas?
Women in Clothes by Sheila Heti – a conversation among women about how choosing the garments we wear shapes our daily lives.
To Die for: Is Fashion Wearing Out the World? by Lucy Siegle – a book about the current price of big name brands and what we can do to become more sustainable.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
As our brand grows, I am very excited to develop new relationships with those who have dedicated time and research to innovative and sustainable fashion practices. Together, we can bring awareness to our consumers and change the way the fashion industry does business.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/21
Founded in 2016, Margu is a womenswear line created and designed by Emily DeLong. Combining classic silhouettes with vintage-inspired details, her clothing strikes a balance between playful femininity and quiet sophistication. Fabrics, notions, and trims are sustainably sourced from all over the world, and every garment is designed, cut, and sewn in her tiny studio in Fayetteville, Arkansas.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
My interest in ethical and sustainable fashion developed pretty slowly, over the course of several years. I’ve been interested in fashion and shopping for a long time, and I’ve always thought of clothes as a vehicle for self-expression. A few years ago, I realized I had amassed a lot of clothing, a lot of which I wasn’t wearing, and a lot of which was falling apart way too quickly.
Around this time, I picked up sewing again after a long hiatus, and I started sewing the clothing I wished I could find in stores: fun, well-fitting, not ridiculously trendy, and well-made. Sewing allowed me to connect with clothing in a way I hadn’t before, as I began to realize just how much of a hands-on labor and craft it is, both in regards to the clothes I was making and to all the clothes I had bought over the years.
At the same time, I began reading and learning more about all the environmental and human rights issues at the heart of the fashion industry, and I began buying less and less to the point where now I only buy things I truly need. By the time I decided to start my clothing line, I knew there was no other option than to make it as sustainable and ethical as possible.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
To provide alternative choices to conventional and fast fashion. The more ethical and sustainable brands there are out there, the easier it will be to find ethical and sustainable products, with the idea that hopefully someday the ethical and sustainable option is the only option.
What is Margu?
Margu is a womenswear line that was founded in 2016. We create clothing slowly and thoughtfully, combining classic silhouettes with vintage-inspired details. We hold perfect fit and self-expression dear to us. We pride ourselves in offering clothing sourced from sustainable fabrics and notions, with everything cut and sewn in the USA.
What inspired the title of the organization?
Margu is a nickname of mine. I felt kind of weird naming the label after my real name, but at the same time the label truly is my personal creative project, so naming it Margu was a happy compromise.
What are some of its feature products?
We make a variety of dresses, skirts, pants, and tops that are as wearable as they are beautiful. Fit, function, and the ability to style pieces in multiple ways are all important to me. I’m particularly fond of buttons, so you’ll find a lot of button-front dresses and tops in our collections!
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
We exclusively use natural fibers, such as cotton, linen, silk, and hemp, in our collections. We focus our sourcing on high-quality materials that minimize resource use and pollution and that decompose back into the earth as quickly as possible. Many of our fabrics are GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certified, such as our cotton double gauze lining fabric and our organic cotton twill.
I make a point of having several fabrics from each collection be handloom fabrics: spun and woven by hand in India, they utilize an age-old process that preserves traditional crafts, creates well-paying jobs in rural areas, and uses no electricity to produce.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Margu?
All our pieces are designed, cut, and sewn in our tiny studio in Arkansas, USA. The fabrics and notions we use are sourced from all around the world; most of our fabrics and fibers right now are ethically sourced from India.
Getting a better grasp on our supply chain and providing that information to our customers is one of my biggest priorities; in the near future we hope to be able to map the life cycle of all our products, from seed to garment.
Will the fibres and fabrics for the products from the company biodegrade?
Yes! Since we use exclusively natural fibers and almost-exclusively natural notions, our products are designed to return to the earth much more quickly than conventional garments. Our garments are also designed to last a lot longer than conventional garments, too, which results in less waste and fewer resources used in the long term.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
The Margu customer is a thoughtful, creative woman who uses clothing as a way to express her identity. She desires high-quality clothing and is interested in the story behind it. She sees the value in ethically produced garments and is always searching for ways to lessen her environmental footprint without compromising her style.
There are twelve styles in our upcoming FW16 collection, which means there are twelve paper patterns in our studio, each hand-drafted and graded and hanging on a little hook.
What topics most interest you?
My two biggest personal grievances with the fashion industry are the amount of overconsumption and needless spending on the consumer end and the race-to-the-bottom mentality in regards to price and quality on the retailer end. Buying less, buying better, and respecting the craft of those who make our clothing are all important to me.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). How do tragedies shed light on work conditions in garment factories?
Many of the biggest garment-factory tragedies have been real-eye openers to those unaware of the problems in the garment industry and have helped create real change. The Triangle Shirtwaist fire led to a lot of much-needed laws regulations that surely prevented future tragedies.
The Rana Plaza disaster has unfortunately not sparked as much change in factory oversight in Bangladesh or the murky subcontracting practices of some of the world’s biggest retailers as it should have, but the incident did open the eyes of a lot of people who had no idea that their clothes were (and still are) being made in such terrible environments.
There is still so much to be done to protect workers’ safety and rights around the world, however, and waiting for the next disaster to happen before we enact real change is unacceptable.
Child labor and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labor. A few million children in the case of child slavery. According to the Minimum Age Convention (1973), labor before the age of 14, 15, or 16, dependent upon the country, is child labor. The Convention on the Rights of the Child (1989) represent the importance of children’s rights on the ‘international stage’ in Article 2(2), Article 3(1), and Article 3(2). In addition, International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights (1966) in Article 24(1-3) and International Covenant on Economic, Social and Cultural Rights (1966) in Article 10(3) delineate the importance of children’s rights too. These stipulations about equality remain violated in the fashion industry, especially the manufacturing sector or the garment industry. How can individuals get the word out about these extreme children’s rights violations?
Issues like child labor and slavery are so difficult to grasp in the Western world because we feel so disconnected with it. As consumers, it can be hard to comprehend that basically every product we see on the shelves of a store was made by a human.
I think the best way to shed light on the human rights crisis that is child labor is to continue to humanize our products and always remember (and remind others) that behind everything you own is a person and a story, however bad or good.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations, women and children, in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Be informed, ask questions, and lead by example.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
It’s great to be able to go to work every day and be a part of something bigger than myself. I alone cannot change the world, but I can help to create the changes in the fashion industry that I wish to see.
Thank you for your time, Emily.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/19
Tell us about your partnership and how you got started?
We met at a conference on ecology and environment in Vitoria, a beautiful city in northern Spain. We had already spoken on other occasions, since we both volunteered in a state organization but it was the first time we could share a joint space.
At that moment, we realized that we had many things and common desires, being few months later when we started to consider creating a business project together.
We found the union of knowledge about the agriculture of Javi, born in Valladolid, and all his training in relation to climate change, sustainable development and environmental management, with the health conscience and person of Esther, born in Madrid, a pediatric nurse and neonatal for main profession, with training in the field of children’s psychomotricity, fair trade and development of personal and social skills.
All this, together with an extreme sensitivity and affection for the work well done, care with respect to the animals and the desire that the Spanish handicraft be respected and endured, as an intangible heritage of great value. All of them represent common values that we believe enrich the project that we carry out today.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
Our concern for the environment and people led us to find local consumption alternatives related to our food or electricity consumption. But we were missing something and like we say “We are what we eat” we can also say “we are what we wear” so we started to investigate in raw materials, farming methods, collection and production, impacts on the environment and people, textile consumption alternatives, organizations and associations, and we begin to discover all the social injustices behind the world of fashion.
In the case of Spain, after months of study, we came to the conclusion that wool was one of the few raw materials that we could transform locally in an integral way, besides having, at present, in its management a problem in which we could Have a positive impact on a project to recover the fiber and the wool textile industry that still exists in our peninsula.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
In my case, Javi, my studies in agriculture led me to think that this is not what I wanted for the Earth, animals and people. The intensive production methods, the use of pesticides, herbicides, chemicals to squeeze our soils to the maximum, the excessive use of natural resources, as well as the forms of animal care used by intensive livestock, made me wonder a lot.
Especially to think that there was another way to obtain natural resources without wasting them, but on the contrary, generating closed cycles of product that do not generate eternal waste and give back to the earth in a positive way what is created from it.
On the other hand, in the case of Esther, studies related to health, maternity, childhood and how the habits of health and the environment influence her, make us as a team aware of the need to create textiles that empower our health and abilities, for which the wool has spectacular intrinsic qualities, suitable for any moment of life, even with very positive and almost unknown effects for the protection of health.
In addition, the therapeutic capacity of weaving and the possibilities of creative development that wool provides for all ages, social classes and genders are well known.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
There is a whole social and business movement that offers and demands a change in the form of production, marketing and consumption. Gradually we are growing, organizing to gain visibility and we know that we have in our hand the power of social transformation, and offer a more fashionable view of fashion; Being an example of that can be made garments of any style and complements of design, obtaining a great benefit for the people and the planet.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
Our heroines and heroes are those people who are already occupying a space within sustainable fashion, putting their grain of sand and effort in demonstrating that another fashion is possible.
As Eduardo Galeano says: “Many small people, in small places, doing small things, can change the world”.
What is dLana?
We are a company that works to recover the value of wool as raw material in our country.
And we recover its value both through our work of disseminating information about the properties, history, traditions and wealth that is generated around the culture of wool; As well as a very careful and studied work of production of different spinning and sale of selected products, genuine and modern high quality, in addition to other services.
What are some of its feature products?
Mainly dLana offers multiple options for work and enjoyment with pure sheep wool.
From woolen top to spinning or making crafts, going through woolen yarns for knitting or crochet; To textile garments and accessories of 100% wool of own design or a creation service for designers and brands who wish to work with our yarn.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
For the moment, we mainly sell in our country, Spain, with specific orders from some clients and stores in France, Malta, Italy, Portugal and Japan.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
Human and worker rights are for us and for the sustainable fashion movement, universal and indisputable.
Our company is born under the principles of the economy of the common good, where not only people are taken into account, but also the environment, and the effects that this productive activity exerts on all the people who participate in it, looking for a win-win at all times.
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
We know, thanks to our work in relation to fair trade, that women and children are the most disadvantaged in any situation of vulnerability, although paradoxically they are the ones that contribute the most work and development socially.
We understand that professional development should not put women in a situation of fragility, simply because it is a basic need.
The sustainable fashion, is framed in criteria of respect to the environment and protection of the workers’ rights, where a series of criteria of safety, equality and protection of the health of the workers are fulfilled, in which everything related is included with motherhood and the care of the children.
In our case, local production allows us to create products with complete traceability, in which we could tell our clients, with name and surnames, all the people who have intervened in each process until they reach their hands.
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights?
We believe that there is a direct relationship between the rights of women and children, since in most countries they are the main responsible for the upbringing and care of the home, in general. Some highly developed countries in social legislation are gradually implementing plans to incorporate men into these care, but much remains to be done, starting with gender education in schools and within families, and with the obligation to companies not to penalize the reproductive processes in women, nor in families with girls and boys of school age.
On the other hand, and returning to those families and countries more impoverished, we cannot fail to see that mother who works the field carrying her baby in the back, or glimpse a path of hope and decent work as offered by companies such as Creative Handicraft in Bombay.
Every day the examples of another possible society increase and in dLana we are betting on modern and inclusive social models.
Child labour and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labour and a few million for child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these other rights violations?
People can stay informed through NGDOs like Amnesty International, or through more specific campaigns in the textile sector like Clean Clothes Campaign (cleanclothes.org) and make decisions regarding their consumption acts.
But, in any case, we believe that there is an international law that is violated systematically throughout the world.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
The people who work at dLana are very committed to all these issues and we believe that there are very different ways of solving, all of them complementary.
On the part of the consumers it is necessary that there is more curiosity in what is behind the garments that they buy and also that with that information they seal quality stamps and responsible commerce in their purchases.
On the part of the designers and brands we believe it necessary that there is a demand in the traceability of the forms of production of the fabrics and threads that they use, as well as in the manufacturing of the garments.
By companies, strict compliance with human rights and workers, regardless of whether they are workers in your account or outsource services to other companies.
To the international justice, in this sense there is a need for fraud and crimes to be pursued, with exemplary penalties for each of the parties involved in cases such as Rana Plaza.
And of course and not least, ask that every day there is a greater demand for compliance and improvement of working conditions by the employees themselves respecting also their right to strike.
What topics most interest you?
There are many interests that move us every day, but we believe that the most important is love. The beauty of life and being able to walk through it in a positive and calm way.
Did you have a mentor in this work?
We have learned a lot of self-taught searching for information on the internet, in books and especially doing a very important field research.
We have spent many hours listening to shepherds and artisans who have opened the doors to their homes and their lives, sharing their efforts and with those who have created a link of collaboration directly or indirectly. Something that we will never stop doing, as we continue to learn from everything we live and travel, which we consider fundamental.
Have you mentored others?
We believe that for the moment we can offer and share, but not mentorize, the experience is a degree and dLana has much to work and still learn.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
It is important to have referrals, identify people who can influence you in a positive way and offer serious collaborations that bring benefits to all parties. All experience and information that helps you explore in your professional and personal field, which helps you grow and become a better person is something to take advantage of.
From prsonal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
In this case, we cannot give you an absolute answer. We are relatively new to the sector and we imagine that there are sociological reasons that would answer this question.
While it is true that in our homes we have always seen that only women knit or sew, while men were more concerned with arranging other matters more related to physical strength.
However, we know that in other cultures it is also men who perform many textile works.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
With dLana we are demonstrating many things. Face to the public, we can work with the wool of our country in a satisfactory way, with quality and fully in the territory with our textile craftsmen, offering a complete traceability among many other things.
And in a more personal way, being able to fulfill the dream of helping people, respecting the planet, putting your little bit of sand to generate social change and knowing that you can overcome every day.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
Right now in dLana, Javi works continuously and on the other hand, Esther combines her work as a pediatric nurse in a public hospital, with all the activities and travels of representation of dLana.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Sass Brown and his book Eco Fashion was one of the first on sustainable fashion that we could read in our research.
But at the level of our country and without personifying in particular, we would like to emphasize all the work that the different Sustainable Fashion Associations are doing in our country working as a team, each in their region.
Any recommended means of contacting dLana?
You can contact dLana on any of our social networks: facebook, Instagram and email info@dlana.es or visit our website www.dlana.es
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
We have liked your questions, both those that have allowed us to open in a personal way as those that have offered dLana express their opinion within the world of fashion.
A style of interview different from the usual that has helped us to reflect, recover and expose many terms and knowledge that the vortex of our day to day perhaps we forget to convey but that always go in the backpack of our woolly way.
Thank you for your time, Esther and Javier.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/18
Kámen Road offers limited edition travel and work bags made on the West Coast of the United States. The company, founded by Kathleen Murphy believes in ethical and sustainable design and business practices. Read more about her and journey into sustainable fashion.
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
First, I want to thank you for this opportunity. I was born and raised in San Jose, California – the Santa Clara Valley – now Silicon Valley. My family traveled the United Sates in a van all Summer long. My dad was a teacher, bird watcher, absolute nature lover, and conservationist in his own way. My mom is the most life loving person known to me. She is a map lover and was our navigator. We stopped at every historic landmark on every back road. We explored the most beautiful landscapes. I will never forget the desert sunrises and the weeping willows of the Bayou.
Travel became what I needed to do to think and to understand my place in the world. I was a creative kid – inward. I loved the game of soccer and loved simple, open, and quiet spaces. I saw shapes. I wrote poetry. I ended up writing proposals for non-profits for more than 15 years, but I hit a wall. I had no creative outlet. I did not have experience sewing or making. So, I thought that I could never do it.
I stopped writing proposals and started to focus on what I wanted most of all, which was a travel bag that could hold everything that I truly loved. My favorite sweater, shoes, socks, books, etc., in one bag for one month. I feel strongly that when we only possess what we love, and know who and how they made it, then we are most fulfilled and connected to our life. We can ‘live free and content on the open road’ like Walt Whitman said.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I had to pay for my school clothes. I had an aunt and grandmother who were amazing shoppers in terms of quality. I learned to spot the highest quality clothing on the clearance racks in the outlet stores. I also could see the mounds of cheaply made clothes. I could see the waste, but I needed clothes. I wanted clothing and shoes that would hold up and have something uniquely special. I wanted to see woven patterns and colors that were purposeful and personal. In the 90s, the Adidas child labor scandal broke. I loved everything Adidas as a soccer player, and I woke up then to the sickness behind what I bought. I started to pay attention to Fair Trade. In San Francisco before Renegade arrived, I found shopping events that featured individual designers. Talking to them, understanding their passion and the challenge of costs and high quality design work was the tipping point for me.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
I think studying literature and the liberal arts – history was so interesting to me – to understand how people lived throughout time—what they wore, the social barriers, architecture, and how it defined relationships. My college education brought to the surface my great passion for art and design. I would wander the halls of the art building at San Jose State. I envied those students, their creativity, and all their ideas expressed in all kinds of mediums. I couldn’t really draw so I thought creating art was not possible for me. I loved to write but it wasn’t the exact expression that held me. I had all kinds of ideas, but didn’t have the skills to capture in form what was in my head. Professionally, I started to write proposals for sustainable business models, and I was hooked because there was now a very real bridge between social good, and products and services that were carried through with ethics, and people, and opportunity in mind all along the way.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
For me, it is life changing. Consumers can know exactly the materials and processes that go into making what they buy. They can see and perhaps understand better the difficulty of the decision making for brands and what we will not compromise on and what we must compromise on at times. Large companies when they choose ethical and sustainable practices can ensure that mass production, if it is a necessity in terms of the global economy, can offer and ensure safety, prosperity, and mobility in a person’s life. That is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion. That, as consumers, designers, small businesses, and large companies, we are making sure that what we want in our lives is equally possible for someone else. Not through charitable giving always, but in making our everyday and special consumer purchases a real expression of our belief in and support of all people.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
I have to say Andy Goldsworthy. I know that he is not in fashion, but I so admire what he has shown is possible in terms of nature and beauty.
What is Kámen Road?
Kámen Road is a travel and work bag collection that uses natural materials that last the longest and age the best, using local artists and makers as much as possible, with the ultimate goal of one-bag travel so we can connect better with the world around us every day.
What are some of its feature products?
Right now, we offer a signature leather and hemp canvas weekender, a laptop/book bag messenger bag, a portfolio case, and soon to be released touring bag.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
All people – all lifestyles – who are seeking very personal connections with the people who make their bags.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
I hope that ethical and sustainable fashion is no longer a new movement very soon. To answer your questions about workers, especially women, and children, we have to ask: how is a material product ever more important than a person’s life? Fair labor standards should be a given. If you would not work in that factory, why should someone else? The fact that the fashion industry is still connected to these tragedies is absolutely a human rights violation.
The fact that companies don’t know about the conditions of the factories is impossible to understand. We know that large fashion companies have auditors that are responsible for conducting factory inspections, but exploitation still happens, so where is the break down? Can we monitor, report, and correct labor violations as individual consumers and people in the fashion industry as a global community instead of one country versus another?
Right now, consumers have options to purchase nearly every type of clothing and accessory from ethical and sustainable brands. The higher cost of ethical brands is said to be a main reason for a consumer’s decision to buy larger and cheaper brands. I understand, and I am open to, identifying every possible method that will show people what is at stake when companies produce without caring about the human impact of their profit.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
I think of all the Fair Trade organizations and all the brands investing in their workers, but it is still not enough. We have fair trade certifications. We still have the tragedies. Do we have a global march? Do we write a global agreement? Do we already have these mechanisms in place but without enforcement, we continue to put material things over people. I usually speak to the choir about our consumer power to change the fashion industry. But at every show, I have an opportunity to talk about the decisions that I make and how ethical and sustainable business is an ongoing process of research, improvement, and ultimately social good.
What topics most interest you?
Bio-mimicry, sustainable travel, a contemplative life.
Did you have a mentor in this work?
I stepped in blind and have learned so much from so many people. I have to say Maureen Dougherty of Quiet Clothing and my friend Beth who works for an environmental organization. We have debated every topic in the consumer world and challenged each other to consider our actions. They have inspired me so much by their commitment to sustainable living and they support my vision as someone creating a material product.
Have you mentored others?
I am so new myself. I have so much to learn. I am always here to help people who have an idea. I hope to encourage every person to pursue his/her creativity and ideas. I have met with start-up entrepreneurs in the online marketing and social media space who are committed to ethical and emerging brands. I would do anything to help in order to make sustainable fashion a driving economic force.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
Mentors are critical touchstones when self-doubt starts to blurb and weaken your vision. Our experiences may be completely different in style and approach, but they give me the reassurance that I am on the right track.
They don’t dismiss or limit the discussion of any topic or idea. Their honest critique on a practical level has saved me so much time. Their passion inspires me to stay the course. My mentors in the fashion world understand the crazy rants and ramblings, the confusion, the moment of clarity, and the joy of design for me, which is to give a person something that they love and will cherish for a life-time.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
I am not sure.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
It is really life changing. I was never really fulfilled until I worked to create this vision I had of traveling freely with one bag that could hold everything that I loved. I did it. I know now that I can realize my ideas in a form that is as useful, ethical, personal, and beautiful as possible at this moment. I have so many ideas and I now have a way to express them and give a product to someone who knows that we value their work, their life, and their travels like our own.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
I still write proposals for non-profits. Because of Kámen Road, I focus on job training and job creation because I felt that I could not give back enough as a small business owner.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Still thinking.
Any recommended means of contacting Kámen Road?
Through the contact page on our website, www.kamenroad.com and follow us on Instagram @kamenroad
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
I want to thank Trusted Clothing and all your supporters very much. Together, we can bring more and more ethical brands to more and more people.
Thank you for your time, Kathleen.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/17
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I always knew I wanted to be a fashion designer. I began my career at the age of 12, where I learned how to draft patterns and sew for myself. Then, I started my own business at 15 years old, designing made-to-measure garments for customers and people around me.
I decided to pursue my dream and study fashion in order to get as much knowledge as possible. I have a College Diploma in Fashion Design, a Bachelor in Fashion Merchandising and a Master of Arts in Fashion, where I specialized in sustainable fashion. Internships in Paris, Madrid and Toronto really helped me forge my identity as an entrepreneur and designer and my approach towards the fashion industry.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
People and the environment were always very important to me. I always knew I wanted to make a difference in the world, and I chose to do it through fashion. It is unconceivable to me to create garments that don’t make a difference. It just seems nonsense to me!
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
The most influential part of my path was definitely my master degree, in which I was able to focus on sustainable fashion and research every possible way of making ethical and ecological garments.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
It is primordial! I still don’t understand how some fashion brands decide to exploit other human beings and pollute our wonderful planet. I hope that some day, we won’t even have to mention that a brand is sustainable. I wish it will just be a given.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
Kate Fletcher is definitely one of my favorites! She is the pioneer of slow fashion and she is a great activist and researcher.
What is Gaia & Dubos?
Gaia & Dubos is a sustainable fashion brand that designs, produces and sells high-end ecological and ethical clothing for women. We also offer online sewing courses to allow everyone to learn the basics of clothing and accessories repair, and we act as an informant by posting videos and articles on sustainable fashion in order to educate the public.
Our mission is to change the face of the fashion industry by offering products and services resulting from sustainable development. We also want to give the power back to consumers by giving them an education on ecological and ethical fashion.
What are some of its feature products?
We are currently working on our first clothing collection, which will be launched next spring. We are developing high quality everyday and professional garments for women, and they all comprise transformable or customizable options in order to deepen customers’ emotional attachment and increase versatility. We only use eco-friendly materials and all of our products are ethical handcrafted in Quebec, Canada.
Gaia & Dubos also offers online mending courses in order to teach people how to fix their clothes and accessories. People can subscribe and download the course videos directly to their computer!
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Our target audience is women aged 35 to 55 who demonstrate an interest for sustainable clothing. They prioritize quality and classic styles and are willing to pay for a product that is entirely ethical and ecological.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
Human and worker rights should always be a priority when hiring people. It is unconceivable to me to offer such horrific working conditions to the people who work for you and make it possible for you to make a living.
The problem is highly complex, but I think we should bring fashion brands, governments, manufacturers and customers together to find tangible solutions.
I believe it is the responsibility of fashion brands to ensure they ask for decent deadlines and pay enough money to the manufacturers they do business with. This way, the manufacturers will be able to offer more decent conditions to their employees.
I also think we should all work together toward the right to unionize. In most garment factories, it is strictly forbidden to form a union, which doesn’t help them get better working conditions…
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
I think everyone should be equal, not matter what. I don’t believe the solution to child labor is to ban it completely, but rather to offer better wages to adults so that children don’t have to work at all. Also, I think that bringing women to higher positions within the industry could help them get better conditions. In developing countries, most lower lever positions are occupied by women, whereas men occupy managing positions.
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights?
They are directly connected! By offering better conditions to women, they will be able to better care for their children: send them to daycare or school, have more time and energy to be with them, and have enough money to feed them, buy clothes, school supplies, etc. By increasing women’s wages, children might not need to work at all and may be able to attend school and attain higher career goals, ending this poverty cycle once and for all!
Child labour and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labour and a few million for child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these other rights violations?
I believe it is the responsibility of fashion brands, designers, bloggers, activists, researchers, etc., to first educate consumers on this topic. This is what we have been doing at Gaia & Dubos and we really see an increase of awareness among our community! By having the knowledge and developing their awareness on the topic, consumers will be able to make sensible decisions when buying and to share what they know with others.
When fashion brands will realize that consumers do care and do vote with their money, they will be obliged to make some changes. Some big ones! They will invest more money and efforts toward ethical working conditions and won’t think of profit the same way: it’s not by cutting expenses that they will make more money; it’s by making their customers happy, trusting, loyal and content with what they offer.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
I think I just explained that in the previous questions! J
What topics most interest you?
– Creating a positive impact on the humanity and the planet.
– Empowering customers through education.
Did you have a mentor in this work?
Yes! Dr. Lu Ann Lafrenz, one of my favorite teachers ever! She knows a lot about sustainable fashion and helped me complete a thorough research on this topic for my master essay.
Have you mentored others?
Yes! I am always willing to help people who want to work in the sustainable fashion industry. I offer them advice and guidance in their process since I have a strong background in the field.
What is the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
I would not stress the importance of mentoring per say, but rather of sharing and exploring together. I share openly with many other people involved in the sustainable fashion industry, and even other fields related to the ethical/ecological movement, and it always brings me a lot!
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
I think fashion is viewed as more feminine in our society. It is associated with looks and appearance, and I just think more women relate to this topic!
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
Every day, it is an enormous pleasure for me to work on Gaia & Dubos! I am combining my passion for fashion and my desire to make a difference in the world, and I feel incredibly fulfilled by my work!
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
Raising my baby! Juggling with all the projects we have at Gaia & Dubos and taking care of my beloved son is enough for now! However, I really want to work on a book project in the next year or so. I want to gather all the knowledge I have around sustainable fashion and create a reference book for the consumer who wants to make a change and buy better.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Kate Fletcher and Micheal Lavergne for the fashion professionals, and the book Cradle to Cradle, by McDonough and Braungart, for everyone who wants to have a different perspective on how our everyday objects are made and used.
Any recommended means of contacting Gaia & Dubos?
Email is always good for us! Info@gaiaetdubos.com
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
I really wish we are moving towards a better world where respect and equity are at the forefront of every decision we make!
Thank you for your time, Léonie.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/16
Fatim started Fatim Bahh brand as a socially conscious line, to help young girls get access to primary education in Kassa, Guinea, West Africa and to help women in the rural areas of Guinea, showcase their artisanal skills to the contemporary market place and be financially independent. Read more about our interview with her below.
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
My name is Fatim Bahh, I was born and raised in Guinea, West Africa. Both my parents were highly educated and I remember my father always saying that Education was the only thing a man would never take away from a woman, therefore we should really focus on education.
I Moved to US on my 18th birthday to go to college and get a better educational opportunity. I studied Fashion Design and Social work at University of Los Angeles, where I received my BA in both fields.
After working as a Social worker for low income families and working in the fashion industry for over 10 years as a personal stylist, assistant designer and wholesales rep. It was time for me to get my own business.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
Conscious Fashion is a global movement, I have always admired respecting nature, caring for social justice and making beautiful things. It was a Natural fit.
The One Girl At A Time Foundation raises funds to pay for school supplies and tuition.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
My education and professional influence my decision making today, the type of business I want to own and the impact I would like to make in society. You have to have a voice, and I don’t think I would have known all the things I now know if not for these experiences.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
We are a vehicle for a change in today’s society. People look up to us, they want to understand what they are buying, who is making their clothes and where the materials are coming from.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
I like brand like Krochet Kids INTL for their social impact and Everlane for their Radical transparency.
What is Fatim Bahh?
We are a socially responsible Brand made in USA with the mission to support young girls’ education in Guinea, West Africa.
What are some of its feature products?
Every product features a hand-woven/hand-dye African textile accent, a signature design for our clothes. We have a wide range of tops and dresses.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Women living in urban areas age 25-55, we are building a movement and welcome anyone to join the community of like minded.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
Companies should be taken accountable for poor working conditions in factories.
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of te status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
the right to a healthy and safe working environment; the right to a minimum wage and the prohibition of firing a worker without a valid reason. The right to freedom from discrimination.
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights?
the prohibition of forced or compulsory labour; the prohibition (or limitation) of child labour; the right to leisure and rest during work; the right to equality of treatment between home workers and other wage earners; the right to an 8-hour day or a 48-hour week.
Child labour and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labour and a few million for child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these other rights violations?
As global citizen, we all need to get involve in our community, organizations and share our knowledge. Use your social media outlets to spray the world on child labor, human right.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
I think its important to join forces, buy for companies that are transparent in their process and conscious brand, like Fatim Bahh.
Fatim Bahh brand contributes 10% of the proceeds from every purchase to an education fund the One Girl At A Time Foundation.
What topics most interest you?
Girls education and women empowerment.
Did you have a mentor in this work?
My Mother.
Have you mentored others?
Yes, I am the co-founder of One Girl At A Time foundation, a US Non-profit organization that help put young girls to school in Africa and I am an active member of UN global class room committee, in San Diego.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
If you get the right mentorship, it’s priceless what you can learn.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
Interesting you mentioned that because despite the fact that most fashion brands are catering to women, very few are let by them, men still on the top of the industry, even though women are entering the industry at the bottom, they are not rising proportionally to the top. Things are still moving slowly for us.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
It so rewarding to know at the end of the day that you help made a difference somewhere, no matter how little. The more we grow our movement, business the better chances we have to share our movement with others and help make a bigger impact in our society.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
My foundation, One Girl At A Time, helps provide education opportunity to young girls in Africa.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Eco Fashion by Sass Brown.
Any recommended means of contacting Fatim Bahh?
Join our movement of helping girls attend school and get the basic primary education.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
Yes, don’t be afraid to start something, follow your heart and find your true calling. Just because you don’t have people’s support does mean you are not doing it right, it takes time.
Thank you for your time, Fatim.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/16
Outsider was launched in 2009 with a mission statement that set the scene “Ethical fashion should just look like fashion”. Read more about our interview with Noorin Khamisani and her views on the fast fashion.
I was born in London to a Polish mother and Indian father. I grew up speaking both English and Polish. I was raised knowing some of my family were Muslim, some were Roman Catholic. I found Buddhism in my twenties.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
I studied Fashion Design at UCA Rochester, upon graduation I worked for independent designers such as Jessica Ogden, Ann-Sofie Back, Susan Cianciolo and Jonathon Saunders. I then worked for more conventional brands including Debenhams, Hobbs and Ted Baker. These differing companies gave a strong grounding in understanding the fashion industry.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I was always interested in natural fibres and vintage fabrics and a slower approach to design as championed by Jessica Ogden and Susan Cianciolo back in the late 90s early 00s. Then as I worked for bigger high street brand I learnt about the challenges of managing large international supply chains. So for me it was a slow process over a number of years as I learnt about the ethical and environmental impact of the fashion industry my interest grew and developed.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
By working with consideration for ethics and sustainability they/we offer an alternative. It’s a demonstration that fashion can be designed, manufactured, marketed and sold in a different way. This is essential to lead by example and hopefully inspire more and more companies to work in more responsible ways.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
It’s not strictly speaking “fashion” but it is clothing related, so Yvon Chounard of Patagonia is a hero for me. He has been trailblazing and leading by example for many many years. Their bravery and openness is very inspiring and has pushed many other large companies to make changes to their supply chains.
What is Outsider?
An ethical and sustainable fashion label specialising in timeless versatile womenswear.
Outsider uses sustainable and ethical fabrics to manufacture clothing.
What inspired the title of the organization?
It is a reference to offering an alternative. We create fashion items but from different materials and with more focus on ethics, so we are on the periphery of the conventional fashion world. Or at least we were when we launched in 2009. Happily, we have seen many changes in the industry over the last 7 years, although there is a long way to go. The name Outsider was also a reference to the impact we can have by choosing an alternative to fast fashion – “It just takes one Outsider to make a difference”.
What are some of its feature products?
We specialize in dresses as they can be so versatile as part of your wardrobe. Our favourite style is the shirt dress as it is so timeless and can work from desk to dinner with just a change of accessories.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Women from a wide age range, we have customers from their early 20s to 60s. Currently our main customer base is in the UK but we are reaching more and more European customers now we have launched a site in Euro.
What topics most interest you?
Sustainable fabric innovation is my passion. I love the amazing solutions coming through to the challenges faced by the fashion industry. It’s incredible how waste streams from milk, oranges and pineapple have been used to create new fabrics.
Have you mentored others?
I teach part-time at London College of Fashion and have interns working with me, so I have mentored fashion students. I really hope to ensure the next generation of fashion designers are better informed, so they can make more ethical and sustainable choices.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
Fashion is such a competitive industry, mentors can help to guide and encourage persistence which is so needed for success.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). How do tragedies shed light on work conditions in garment factories?
These tragedies highlight how much more work needs to be done by large brands to ensure their supply chains are ethical. The main issue is the separation that has been created between brands and factories. But when these tragedies occur and we see they are producing for well-known brands, it reminds us all that they are responsible for ensuring that working conditions are safe. Without those skilled people there would be no clothing to sell.
Women and children remain the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
It is crucial we keep moving towards equal rights and pay for women and that all workers are paid a living wage to ensure that children can attend school (and not have to work). This is a key consideration for all fashion brands to ensure they are monitoring their supply chains.
Child labor and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labor. A few million children in the case of child slavery. According to the Minimum Age Convention (1973), labor before the age of 14, 15, or 16, dependent upon the country, is child labor. The Convention on the Rights of the Child (1989) represent the importance of children’s rights on the ‘international stage’ in Article 2(2), Article 3(1) Article 3(2). In addition, International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights (1966) in Article 24(1-3) and International Covenant on Economic, Social and Cultural Rights (1966) in Article 10(3) delineate the importance of children’s rights too. These stipulations about equality remain violated in the fashion industry, especially the manufacturing sector or the garment industry. How can individuals get the word out about these extreme children’s rights violations?
In this area social media can be extremely powerful in sharing information and highlighting issues which the mass media often chooses to ignore. Starting petitions, sharing stories and questioning brands are all good starting points.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
I have always loved fashion but when I learnt more about the issues surrounding sustainability and ethics I had to reassess that love. For me creating a fashion item responsibly and consciously and then seeing that item picked up by a customer is very fulfilling. Even more so when that customer wears their item for a long time and in many ways. That is how we fight fast fashion, but developing long term relationships with our clothes.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Sass Brown has written some great books and also compiles fantastic information on her website all about ethical and sustainable fashion.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, Outsider?
We are on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and share ethical fashion news through our blog.
Thank you for your time, Noorin.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/14
In 1989 Arrogance Accessories was born. Celebrating their 25 Year Anniversary very recently, they’ve been creating hemp bags and accessories that are now being sold in popular high street stores. Read more about our interview with Alf Valora of Arrogance Accessories.
Tell us about family background – geography, culture, language, and religion.
Our family arrived in the UK about 1976 – Indian Ugandan Refugees due to Idi Amin. My Grandfather was a business man in Uganda so naturally he started a business in London where the entire family worked. One of the products we did was handbags, which my mother ran.
About 25 years ago she decided to leave her father’s business and started Arrogance Accessories Ltd. My brother and I have worked with her since she started the company.
We specialize in Leather bags made in India and this brought us great success. As the business grew, we had a long list of clients, the likes of Harrods, Selfridges, Makro etc. Most of the major high street stores we have supplied.
A few years later, we were introduced to Hemp by a German company. We decided that this will be the way forward and started working with one family run factory in China, where we sourced the hemp and manufactured Sativa Hemp Bags.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
We knew about Hemp, but never worked with it. But once we started researching into its amazing qualities, it was a no brainer to push this material. We ended up being the first company to supply hemp bags to WWF, Amnesty International, now supply to companies all over the world.
What seems like the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
It shows that things can be produced using such materials without losing any fashion, functionality, practical and value for money products.
What is Arrogance Accessories?
Arrogance accessories is a family Run business that conforms to all ethical practices in terms of staff, wages, suppliers who we work with, ensure that all practices are fair and people get paid accordingly.
What inspired the title of the organization?
My university friends were chatting about what we should call my mother’s new business and someone pointed out a friend’s personality – arrogant, that moved on to Arrogance Accessories Ltd, also we wanted to be letter A in the directory.
What are some of its feature products?
Bags, Luggage and Trainers.
What are the main fibres and fabrics used in the products?
55% Hemp/45% Organic Cotton.
Who grows, harvests, designs, and manufactures the products of Arrogance Accessories?
Material made in China along with the bags, I design the range.
Why should ethical and sustainable (and other) fashion designers and companies include the Triple Bottom Line analysis in individual and business performance?
Simply to help the planet and it’s a must that these practices are kept up.
What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights, and the fashion industry?
It’s a must to strive for better practices to improve their lives, or else what is the point.
How can individuals get the word out about these extreme children’s rights violations?
Mention it on their products, obvious marketing channels.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations, women and children, in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Forcing the prices points up and setting an ethical margin to be made, i.e. buy at fair prices and sell at fair prices, don’t squeeze the bottom line.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at most levels. Why?
Not enough is being done at schools to push young boys into the fashion industry.
Also, more men than women appear at the highest ends of the business ladder in fashion. Why?
They probably worked in the business and did not have time off for having children, bringing a family up and so on, which, in general, women have been seen to take.
Will having men in the discussion and on-the-ground improve the implementation of children’s and women’s rights?
Can’t hurt.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
Seeing people happy from the start process to the end consumer buying your product and enjoying it.
What seems like the greatest emotional struggle in personal life for you?
Paving a good future for my Child.
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
Kindness, Honesty.
Thank you for your time, Alf.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/14
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
It’s incredibly important. We navigate a narrative of women’s rights through our garments as we are a company of women for women. And beyond that we’re working on products that directly challenge the accepted ideas of what it means to be feminine and be treated fairly in the workplace.
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights?
Obviously women’s rights trickle down to the family level-when a woman is able to support her family, keep her children out of the workforce, etc. that creates a positive, direct relationship between the need to connect and implement women’s rights and children’s rights.
Child labour and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labour and a few million for child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these other rights violations?
Given that we live in a world where one can filter or self-select news, it’s never been more important to ask important questions, seek answers, and vote with your checkbook. I tend to think the smallest actions you can take–asking a question, supporting a brand with a clear production model–are the strongest.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
I think it’s extraordinarily important to demand more sustainably produced products, textiles, and trims. No matter what, we simply cannot escape the full, true cost of manufacturing in our own backyard, or further ashore.
What topics most interest you?
I believe in the idea of feeding oneself with a steady diet of ideas that exist directly outside of one’s work. That said, even though I spend so much of my work life thinking about plants, Nature (with a capital N), sustainability, patterns, etc. I find that with any free time I am afforded I often pour over some garment/book/painting that has some relationship to my work–I truly do what I love!
Did you have a mentor in this work?
I am blessed to name my pattern maker as my mentor—from her collective decades in the apparel industry I’ve learned (and continue) to learn so much about making clothing with a low environmental and social footprint.
Have you mentored others?
Certainly in my work as a gardener, and most recently I’ve tried to give back to a number of keen students in the fashion industry. I recently took part in a seminar at Northeastern University focused on fashion start-ups.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
As in any field, you learn by doing and to be able to have access to a bank of wisdom in any form is truly invaluable.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
I can’t account for the data, but I will note that I know almost an equal number of men and women pursuing their interests in fashion-be it behind a camera, on the cutting room, or in ecommerce.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
The thank you notes we receive from around the world from women who appreciate the socially and environmentally responsible ethos behind our workwear. This business truly grew out a hope to do things better and it’s a wonderful feeling to know we’re making positive impact in women’s lives in some small way.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
I’m a full time gardener by trade in addition to running Gamine.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Emily Spivack, Rebecca Tuite, Sheila Heti/Heidi Julavits, Leanne Shapton.
Any recommended means of contacting Gamine Co?
We love to hear from folks-a casual hello on social media (@gamine_co) or a missive via email: ella@gaineworkwear.com.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
We are grateful for our community of hardworking sisters and just wanted to take a minute to thank them for all of their support!
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/13
Gamine Workwear is designed by Taylor Johnston, Manager of the Gardens and Greenhouses at the Isabella Stewart Gardener Museum in Boston, Mass. Understanding how important it is to create gear that holds up to hard work, every Gamine product (and repair technique) is put to work in the garden before it’s added to the shop. Read more about Taylor and Gamine Workwear.
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
The people who know me best will tell you that I am a non-linear person. Maybe it goes back to my mom’s constant advice growing up that ‘boredom comes from within.’ I think it made me realize how fortunate I am to be born here, at this time, and with freedom of choice…I guess the short answer to this is I’ve been a horticulturist now for the last 12 years.
I’ve worked on flower farms, botanic gardens, and private estates growing all kinds of edibles and ornamentals. I am most myself when I am in the garden. I studied horticulture and geology in college and have a Master’s in Philosophy- as my colleague says, it qualifies me to do manual labor.
I am extremely proud to work in a trade that reinforces the idea that there are no shortcuts to success. It’s all about getting your hands dirty, not complaining, making mistakes, and doing the work for many, many years. My mentors tell me it’s dangerous to think of oneself as an expert in anything – I think that this is eternal advice.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
Making careful observations about the natural world each day as a gardener greatly impacts the decisions I make in my apparel business as I see the interconnectedness of it all.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
In many ways I am an outlier in the field of apparel-Though I am named after a seamstress, I am a self-taught and for the past 4 years have been studying the art of pattern making with my beloved pattern mater. My point of view is informed by the practical nature of my work and my lifelong interest in personal style.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
Thoreau famously noted that every decision is a moral one–as natural resources become more precious and our world becomes increasingly populated, there is a moral obligation to consider the people and resources behind products. There has never been a more important time to vote with your checkbook.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
Yvon Chouinard-he walks the walk. Not only a brilliant environmentalist, he continues to seek better ways of doing business and offsetting the real costs of manufacturing.
What is Gamine Co?
After being photographed by Bill Cunningham while installing the infamous Nasturtium vines at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, I found myself on the hunt for stylish, functional workwear for women.
When I couldn’t find what I was looking for, and without any formal education in fashion, I decided to tackle the problem myself. Partnering with the oldest and most respected domestic denim and workwear manufacturers, a cadre of field testers, and a genius pattern maker at a renown denim label (who was bored stiff making skinny jeans) I launched Gamine in the spring of 2014.
We are proud to be a small women’s workwear company hopelessly devoted to natural materials, sustainable production, durability, and our community of hardworking sisters.
What are some of its feature products?
Our signature Slim Slouch Dungaree and Sweetwater Trouser. Women’s pants are
notoriously difficult and we’ve done a ton of leg-work (pardon the pun) to understand fit, body types, and materials for our products. Everything is tested in the real world before being offered in shop.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
It’s a real mix of women who are working hard in the field and women who support the materials and design decisions for true blue American made workwear.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured.
Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
It’s essential and it’s always been important to consider the people behind our products. As workers ourselves, what kind of company would we be if we didn’t extend the same ethos to the talented hands that create our products? We celebrate the narrative of the worker from trim to thread and only work with those who treat their employees the way we like to be treated.
Continued in part two…
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/11
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Women between 20 – 45 years old, nature lovers, women that appreciate sustainable living and its initiatives, multiculturalism in the world and its traditions.
Women that demand confort clothing, exclusive and fair trade designs, boho-chic style, clothes with meaning and social responsability.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
Human rights must be over any kind of work we all have a right to a different world. These tragedies are the result of our lack of conscience, our indifference and our monetary slavery.
As human beings we must act for our collective conservation and interact with nature in an organic way. The new movement is the slow movement. With peace of mind, understanding that every point in the chain has a history, understanding that we are One and We need to evolve.
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of te status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
It is imperative to fight for the rights of all members of society without exception. Of course, an industry so closely linked to the feminine universe has the duty to protect with greater effort the fulfillment of the rights of women, above all, before the samples of society of not wanting to do it.
The rights of children equally, must be an assured guarantee, therefore must be respected and taken into account at all times in the chain.
Fashion is an art that should not cause suffering to any member of society, on the contrary, it must provide a form of expression.
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights?
A society that has a vulnerable population is a vulnerable society. A society whose population that has no rights is a slave society. The human race is composed of each and every one of the individuals that make up this society, if there is someone who is bad in society, we are all wrong.
Child labour and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labour and a few million for child slavery.
All members of society participate in one way or another in maintaining the system working, so that if we observe that our actions promote slavery, we can refrain from carrying them out. It is a chain in which we all participate, and slavery is a condition that concerns us all. We must abolish it definitively, and for this we must actively participate in denouncing, choosing well, supporting.
There are many organizations currently working for make visible the problems of made fast fashion under non ethical principles. Each person should be in solidarity with others, because even though he does not know them, they are human beings and have the right to a dignified life.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Individuals can choose materials that are not harmful to the environment, garments that guarantee an ethical production, with both humans and the environment. Choosing ethical designs with the environment and with society is a simple way to contribute to the change we need, because it guarantees the well being of the community.
Designers and fashion industries must be coupled with the cycles of nature and use the imagination to create a different panorama in fashion.
What topics most interest you?
Permaculture
Self-sufficiency
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
Sharing knowledge always gives rise to creating new ideas, new ways of doing, improving their forms.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
Women have in fashion the ability to create characters, send messages, redefine and create new roles. Historically, culture has made the clothing arts an activity for women and they have found in the world of fashion a language with which they can express themselves in all spheres and in all segments of society.
The majority are women because it is a universe that culturally allowed women to build and therefore is designed for them.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
We want to convey a message of inclusion and new forms of conscious consumption. We invite people to rethink about our responsibility and relationship as humans and what kind of world we are creating.
The population growth and its consume demand for food, water, energy, etc is devastating forests, jungles and drying drinking water sources. The time is now! Change start with our decisions, what are you going to eat? Who mades your clothes? Are you supporting fair trade practices?
Is important to be awareness about how your buying choices affect the work conditions of someone in China or Colombia or Peru and contributing to preserve the Amazon river or support water supply in Guajira.
As entrepreneur you have the option to be sustainable and innovating in fashion business, be actively part of an evolution and support the social development in third world countries.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
Sustainable living in the Andean Mountains, Permaculture and herbalism.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Gilles Lipovetsky
Bill Cunningham
Any recommended means of contacting Casa Lefay?
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
We are very grateful for your time and your interest in Casa Lefay and supporting sustainable living. Everyone make a difference; your buying choices are important.
Thank you for your time, Maria and Nicolas.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/10
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
Since childhood I liked fashion, thanks to my grandmother, a woman from Barranquilla, a city in the Caribbean coast of Colombia that breathes fashion, elegance, and style.
In her time, women still did not have much participation in society, so they found in fashion a particularly and feminine language for expressing their creativity. I also inherited from her the love for painting.
My grandmother devoted her life to be the companion of my grandfather, attend social gatherings where she found the occasion to create a character to tell a story. I still remember, dress with heels and jewelry from my grandmother, who at that time had two large closets full of clothes that collects even until now.
During my adolescence, when I started out to graduation parties and celebrations of all kinds, it was my grandmother who lent us the costumes to me and my friends. (Still does, are now more women in the family, cousins… sisters and their friends…)
Besides my grandmother was his sister, my aunt Anita, another beautiful Caribbean woman, who found in sewing and embroidery how to make life had the possibility of main transform the material into an object full of meanings. In general women of that generation of my family were in some way or another related to fashion clothing.
Not only because at the time was an activity for women, but because Colombia at that time did not come out fashion designers or fashion labels, and if they did were very expensive…so each woman herself responsible for creating their costumes. When I was a small, I studied in a school that was very focused on math, that’s when I met Nicolas, currently my husband and co-founder of Casa lefay.
I had no good in math so I left that school after repeating two years (my mom studied there with his brothers so she refused to take me out of school). After much debate it, I moved to a focused liberal arts school, where fortunately I was able to explore many of the capabilities that until then had been unable to explore.
Unlike my first college women in this school were fully communicated through fashion. At first my adaptation was very painful because I had to overcome many preconceptions ideas about “being superficial” to be inclined towards the world of fashion.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
Fashion, despite being an art of which we are all captives, is one of the most polluting industries on the planet. Given the current environmental situation, we believe that it is necessary to begin to be part of the change that we need.
So, We want to provide an alternative to consumption. Currently the world needs a change because the natural resources are finite and we need them to live, we have to conserve and use them in a proper manner. Fashion is one of the most polluting industry in the world.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
After finishing my school, I decided to study literature at the Javeriana University in Bogota, I always liked to tell stories and learn more about the man through them. The emphasis of my career I did in visual arts where I could find a space for my taste for drawing.
Over time the drawing took me into fashion as a professional field, by then would have 22 years old. It was when I started studying fashion illustration in a fashion school in Bogota, Arturo Tejada. Eventually, I get involved even more and end up enrolling in the academic career.
At that same moment I met again with Nicolas, after many years we had not seen, and we decided to move to Buenos Aires, where I could end my career in literature while studied fashion design at the University of Belgrano.
It was a very difficult time because my family was still incomprehensible that ending my career I took a descision like that. In addition to our cultural context it was frowned me to live with if we were not married.
When we arrived in Buenos Aires I started my fashion career at the University of Belgrano while finished my thesis in Literature.
Although, I completed my thesis in Literature and graduated while in Buenos Aires, my fashion career turned out to be not what I expected. It was still a very new program and still there was a definite structure, so I decided to leave college to make independent courses what I really interested in.
Illustration, makeup, styling, fashion and tailoring. Since the courses do not take a long time and at that time I was not working, I decided to continue my career and to start a master degree in art criticism and dissemination at IUNA.
Over time the city was oppressing us, the academic structure did not fit with my ideals of life, and together with Nicolas, who by then worked as an environmental analyst for contaminated site remediation and environmental issues Dept. at YPF’s downstream, an Argentina oil company, we decided we wanted to take another life. By then he was very affected by the environmental damage of the industry, and was a need for us to take another way of life.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
The designers or companies that promote ethical and sustainable practices contribute to generate a change in the forms of consumption. Such change is necessary to maintain the healthy ecosystem we need.
It is urgent to create a human system that guarantees the integrity of all members of the chain. It is also urgent to recover the nature that we are exploiting. Having practices that guarantee the wellbeing and the conservation of the ecosystem in which we are only a part, is a responsibility that we cannot evade.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
Vivienne Westwood
Stella Mccartney
What is Casa Lefay?
Casa Lefay is a brand that are committed with sustainability, art, and ethical principles as pillars for an alternative way of living. Guided by travels and multicultural traditions, Casa Lefay creates limited collections of clothes and illustrated objects. All profits are shared with environmental or humanitarian causes.
What are some of its feature products?
We made romantic and boho maxi dresses, pants and skirts. All garments are made with organic cotton under fair trade conditions. Each piece is unique and is printed with water based inks. The fabric design is based in original watercolor illustrations.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/09
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
I think that giving the most disadvantaged people the option to get a better job means everything. If, for example, women can sew for a better salary and conditions will improve, then her life quality and also her kids will do better. The children could go to school and have more opportunities.
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights?
Improving the women’s rights, we make sure that also children’s rights progress. It’s all about the environment that someone grew up in and the economy of the family. If the women’s rights are better, children come back to be kids, e.g. study, play, etc.
Child labour and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labour and a few million for child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these other rights violations?
I think we can do a good job spreading the word around about the consequences of fast fashion. Also, as individuals, our choices matter. We give strength or take it when we buy something in one place or another.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
As designer, I think the most important thing is that we respect our employees and that we pay attention where to acquire our materials and fabrics. We need to track these, where those come from and who made them.As individuals, the most essential thing is that we think twice about buying staff. Just buy something when we need it and acquire with conscience. Buy less but better quality things. Also buy locally and within proximity.
What topics most interest you?
I am interested in lot of things. Most of all, I travel around and get to know local cultures and food. Also, I love to walk into the woods, diving, to read a nice book, design of course, and get lost in the relax of nature.
Did you have a mentor in this work?
Actually, I did. I think my mom raised me always between colors and books and fed my imagination since I was very little. Also, she taught me a little bit to sew with our 30-year-old sewing machine.
Design is to express yourself in fabrics. So I just need to go to the university to learn everything else.
Have you mentored others?
I do not have interns because A Pompidou is a very small brand. But I always collaborate with other designers and groups learning new techniques and helping each other as a social network.
I also do volunteer workshops with kids to show them the importance of recycling and to make them aware that other children are living in precarious ways because of fast fashion.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
If someone mentors another fashion designer it is like helping this person to develop in the fashion world and support the first steps of the path, which are the most difficult.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
I don’t have any statistics to answer this question properly. My guess is that fashion is a business that has been the focus of women. And as society, it is established that some jobs are for men and others for women. Even if I don’t believe in a catalogue for any gender in a specific kind of job or life.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
Doing what you most love is a privilege. I love design and it’s a personal satisfaction to do it in an ethical way trying to improve every step.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
At this very moment, I am preparing the Christmas workshops with kids. They will be made toy with recycled materials to donate on these period to children that have nothing.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
I am fan of a lot of brands that work ethically such as Hilando en el tiempo, the handmade mask of Animalesque, Summer love (eco-friendly swimwear), the beautiful dresses hand printed with flowers ofEtikology, or the tapestry work of Maximo Laura are for me art works made with love of love. There are a lot of designers that I like because their ideas and originality
Any recommended means of contacting A Pompidou?
Well. The best way to know what is going on in A Pompidou is to stay tuned into our social media like Facebook or subscribe to the newsletter of our website. We do not only design unique dresses in organic materials. We also love to spread the word about sustainability and ethical fashion, especially to the little ones.
For example, this Christmas season we have organized workshop with kids where they will create handcrafted toys to give as a presents for the poor families.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
I feel happy to find every day more projects that do an effort on being sustainability and ethics. I know there is still a long way to go, but on the other hand when someone comes to you asking what is sustainable fashion and shows an interest means that we are doing a good labor encouraging other people to enjoy the slow fashion movement.
Thank you for your time, Olga.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/09
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
My name is Olga. I was born in Madrid, Spain. But when they ask me where I am from, I always answer that I am a citizen of the world. From some years now, I’ve been living outside my country of birth.
When I was little, I used to take all the fabrics that I could find at home and transform these again in a different way. Maybe, I didn’t know that I wanted to be a fashion designer, but it’s true that since I was small I wanted to do something creative in my life.
I entered fashion college at 21 years old in Madrid to start my fashion designer studies. When I graduated, I realized that I didn’t like fashion at all, at least not the one that we are used to seeing, with no values or respect for the people and the planet.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
Well, after understanding that “traditional” fashion wasn’t for me, I started traveling/living in another country. In all of those places, I saw the importance and meaning of the dressing and how anyway. All of us want to feel beautiful, or simply be accepted by wearing one thing or another.
Wherever you look into the fashion industry everything feels wrong. How to grow and make the fabrics, the sewing process by exploited people, the pollution, the continuing messages from the media of how we should be or what we should wear…so when I decided to create my first fashion collection a year ago, I wanted to be as sustainable as possible.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
I think that it is important that sustainability enter in all the areas of life.
Speaking about ethical and sustainable companies, we have to develop a network that can cover all the needs and tastes of everyone so we can really compete with the fast fashion industry and establish the sustainable sector. Life must be sustainable if we want our planet to last.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
I always tell the story of when I was a kid and I destroyed a pair of gloves to make a top inspired by two Spanish designers from the 90s known as VACAS FLACAS.
I think I have a lot of heroes. All these little brands that fight every day to carry on their beautiful ideas within sustainable ways. And also all the artisans around the world that contribute to rescue old techniques that are getting lost by time.
What is A Pompidou?
A Pompidou is an ethical and sustainable fashion brand. I design unique models wearable in different ways with certified organic materials. All my designs can be worn by all kinds of different women. I don’t believe in the standard of beauty that the fashion industry tries to impose on us and that’s why all my dresses are adjustable only to the waist, so it will fit perfectly in different kinds of bodies.
Also, I love crafters and artisans so I love to integrate those art works in my designs. For my first eco-friendly collection, I work with an artisan that made all the buttons and accessories in coconut.
What are some of its feature products?
A Pompidou is an eco-conscious brand that creates unique designs taking care of the little details. Everything is made with lots of love by myself from the idea to the preparation, the dressmaking and the last button. But at the same time, I like to rescue some techniques that are at risk to be lost forever because of the devaluation of artisan work during the past years.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
My customer are women between 30 and 50 years old that value the work of a well done design combine with the high quality of the garments.
For the moment, my public, it’s located mainly in Europe and Spain where they have known me in some fairs and other activities.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
It is important that an ethical fashion brand look for the people that makes our clothes. Being ethical and sustainable it’s not only about organic materials. It is more about the people and the planet, so, of course, human and worker rights must be respect in all the process if we want to be ethical.
Continued in part two…
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/08
Lana Bambini is a family-run business offering high quality clothing for children which is all made from lovely natural – and mostly organic – fibres which are either unbleached and undyed or coloured with completely safe GOTS (Global Organic Textiles Standard) approved dyes.
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I’m originally from NZ, married to an Italian and have one daughter. I’ve lived in my adopted home in the UK for the past 13 years and spent many of my previous years living and working on boats from small cruising yachts to huge luxury ‘super yachts’.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I prefer the term ‘clothing’ to ‘fashion’. Fashion implies everything that’s wrong with the garment industry, where the seductiveness of cheap throwaway clothing has completely taken over any interest in the quality or longevity of what we buy; and caused the near-extinction of the skills such as weaving, spinning, and sewing in the developed world.
I started to feel something was terribly wrong when I realised that I could buy a dress for barely more than the price of a coffee. A Greenpeace report on toxic chemicals found in clothing was the inspiration to start Lana Bambini.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
None whatsoever. It was simply deep concern about the heavy use of pesticides and toxic chemicals by the textiles industry, oppressive conditions for workers and the throwaway culture that sees landfills bursting with unwanted clothing. We just wanted to offer consumers safe and ethical alternatives.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
Genuinely ethical companies are like the abolitionists of the 19th century. We’re all trying to end slavery, bonded labor, abuse and exploitation in the garment industry.
There are more enslaved people now than at any point in history and many of them employed making clothing. Choosing to work in ethical clothing means working with much lower margins and a smaller customer base so it’s very much a radical position to take in terms of business.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
Carolyn Whitwell who founded and ran the Bishopston Trading Company for 30 years. She was a pioneer.
What is Lana Bambini?
Lana Bambini is a family-run business offering high quality clothing for which is all made from natural and mostly organic fibres which are coloured with completely safe GOTS approved dyes and free from toxic chemicals.
We specialise in organic wool and on our site you will only find products that have been made in an ethical and environmentally responsible way. Our ethical policy covers human and worker’s rights, animal welfare, use of dyes and chemical inputs and environmental impact.
What are some of its feature products?
The beautiful boiled wool clothing from Disana which is ethically made in Germany from organic materials.
Organic Boiled Wool Coat
Lovely natural socks from Hirsch Natur in organic wool and made in a production facility that uses solar power to drive its knitting machines.
Organic Wool Fairisle Socks
GOTS certified accessories by Bauer of Germany
Organic Knit Children’s Hat with Wool Fleece Lining
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Mostly 30-something mothers with 2-3 children and a middle income level. Most of our customers are into ‘natural parenting’ and are specifically looking for natural fibres, clothing free from toxic chemicals, and organic certifications. A smaller number are ‘ethical consumers’ motivated how and where they are produced.
What topics most interest you?
We believe strongly that moving all manufacturing into developing countries in order to produce things at lower prices has negatively affected the standard of living both the country of production and in The West. We are suffering a loss of jobs and centuries old skills, while those growing cotton and working in garment factories are suffering and dying. Most of our products are made in Europe and have short and transparent supply chains.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
No one can prepare you for the challenges of running a business and there are times when you really want to give up. I’m sure a mentor could really help you through the rough patches and dark moments.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement?
Most brands claim to place great importance on human rights but the real problem is caused by the complex supply chains that allow them to rely on exploited workers while maintaining a clear conscience. There needs to be an industry-wide initiative that companies can sign up to ensure complete transparency in the supply chain and expose ‘green washing’.
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
Every worker deserves to be treated fairly but women often need extra protection in the workplace because of their inherent vulnerability and lower social status in developing countries. Child’s rights can only be upheld when we begin to respect the rights of their parents.
Child labor will be eradicated when there is decent pay and better opportunities for adults. By paying far too little for clothing we are supporting a system where children are forced into menial jobs, and continuation of the cycle of poverty.
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights, and the fashion industry?
Many of these problems are cultural and not related specifically to the garment industry, but by adhering to good practices as set out by the ILO (International Labour Organisation) the industry can definitely help create social change in those countries.
Child labor and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labor. A few million children in the case of child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these extreme rights violations?
Regular press coverage is really important. Personally I’d love to see hard-hitting advertising campaigns on prime-time TV slots, YouTube videos and on Social Media. Celebrities have great power of influence and engaging them to help educate people would be a powerful tool.
Schools could also be approached by pressure groups and persuaded look at this as a topic with pupils. It would be great to engage children in these issues from a young age.
Ultimately change will only come through consumer pressure so educating as many people as possible is important. Such a campaign totally decimated sales of continental veal in the UK. Once people learned about the horror of veal crates the market for European veal totally disappeared and has never recovered
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Consumers perhaps have the biggest part to play because the industry reflects what consumers want. Clothing prices have been pushed to unsustainably low levels because of consumer demand.
If people want change, they must demand it by voting with their wallets. An example of this increasing consumer awareness is reflected the ‘conscious’ range at H & M, a brand never previously associated with ethical production.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
The rarefied world of high-fashion is very much a man’s world in my opinion. There are more male designers leading the top brands and their influence filters down across the whole industry.
This mirrors many industries where men occupy the very top jobs despite their being more women in the lower ones. At the bottom end, 80% of garment workers are women probably for the simple reason that they cost less and are more easily exploited by employers.
Most garment production occurs in countries where women have fewer rights and fewer employment options available to them and the garment industry benefits directly from this.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
It’s satisfying to offer an alternative to clothing which has been made on the back of human misery. We know we are supporting jobs in where people are paid fairly, and helping to keep European production industries alive.
What we sell is also very high quality. People will tell us that one of our coats has been handed down through 3 children and is still going strong.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
I live, sleep and breathe this business so nothing! However, we are soon launching a home-wares site which is devoted to high quality, ethically produced products of all types which are fit for purpose and made to last.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
I avoid shallow fashion blogs which appeal to the ‘like generation’ and are heavily dependent on inducements from the industry but do read Lucy Siegle’s column for the Guardian.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
It’s always great to hear about organisations who are working hard to change the lives of the poorest and most exploited. It restores my faith in humanity.
Thank you for your time, Lydia.
Visit the Lana Bambini store online at Lanabambini.co.uk
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/08
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Currently we are oriented to the sale in national territory. But our objective is to grow as a company and export to other countries within European territory.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
In my humble opinion, I think it is regrettable that disasters such as this must happen to make things change and that the big corporations sign a multilateral agreement in order to alleviate the miserable working conditions of the workers. I think it’s much easier to do things right from the start.
Sometimes I look back on history in the Industrial Revolution of the nineteenth century and I think there are certain things that have not evolved too much…where many capitalists did not care that 7 year olds worked 12 or 14 hours a day in unhealthy conditions with Serious physical risks.
With the sole pretense of producing more at the lowest cost possible. They are fundamental rights of all working people and cannot be vulnerable or tolerated under any concept not respecting it.
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
They are the most vulnerable link and must be especially protected. but Unfortunately, many Western companies produce their garments in Third World countries and exploit without mercy workers from India, Morocco, Honduras, Bulgaria, Cambodia, Thailand, Indonesia or Turkey.
Those most affected by this violation of human rights are often women and children, who become slave labor and are hired in inhuman conditions. That is why the work of the ethical and sustainable fashion world brands is to eradicate the exploitation of children first, and to welcome the hitherto exploited woman by offering her a job and a living wage, ensuring her human and labor rights, under guarantees.
We must boost their growth and education. I think that the task of focusing especially on disadvantaged social sectors helping them to re-enter the working world in a dignified way is the first thing to begin to change certain structures and harmful uses in this sector.
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights?
I think the previous answer responds a bit to this too. If sound laws are created by governments that protect the fundamental rights of children and women, especially in marginal countries, and ensure compliance, governments will avoid situations such as those experienced in the labor exploitation of these vulnerable groups.
On the other hand, we must all work to achieve equality and social balance between men and women, especially in underdeveloped countries where unfortunately women do not have the right to receive an education, and where in many occasions their only function is to procreate.
Child labor and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labor and a few million for child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these other rights violations?
Certainly, a change in the productive system and the conception of how we consume fashion would generate less demand for illegal labor, and would help to create a more moderate pace, granting a new ethical value to fashion.
It is necessary to involve the consumer of the importance and responsibility that he has when buying a particular pledge or another and ask oneself how it has been produced …
On the other hand, I believe that governments should encourage and support this kind of ethical and sustainable fashion, since I believe that many times the end consumer does not buy ethical fashion, not because he does not want to collaborate with it, but because having a higher price cannot afford it and for that reason they finally buy a garment bargain of a great fashion brand that continues to feed this type of fast fashion.
That´s why to be a large disruptive cut, government support and the collaboration of big fashion brands are needed as well.
I like to see that there are already marks that signed the commitment Detox with Greenpeace for 2020 and makes me think that we are in the way to achieve it.
We cannot allow child exploitation continue, according to data from the NGO Save The Children, there are currently 218 million working children in the world aged between 5 and 17 years where some 126 million children worldwide dangerous work, and that 8.5 million people do it in conditions of slavery, average wages of 1.3 euros a day, at best, for 68 hours of work per week, without contract, in unhealthy environments, without basic rights such as
Health coverage in case of illness or union membership, and deprivation of liberty. Undoubtedly, one of the biggest challenges in the fight against child labor is to end subcontracting, since large multinationals often sign with Third World companies that they do not even know about.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
I believe that the best resource and help that can be given is to provide them with the necessary tools to develop and manage their own work. “Knowledge makes you free.” And secondly to ensure that the governmental and human rights laws of the underdeveloped countries are met, strengthening the control systems.
What topics most interest you?
I am fascinated by innovation applied to fashion. I think that sustainability and innovation are not at all opposed and that, on the contrary, they can be mutually beneficial. When I finished my degree in fashion I decided to orient my final project of degree in the “ecofuturismo” tendency where the natural and the artificial raws are in perfect symbiosis. Of course the ecology, human rights and animal protections are vital for me.
Did you have a mentor in this work?
Unfortunately, I haven´t none one in the sustainable fashion. My main mentor has been internet, although it sounds a bit bad, and honestly I have learned a lot in this field.
Have you mentored others?
Not yet, but of course I would like to do it.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
I believe that a mentor has a particular experience that helps direct the efforts to a common and effective fund that promotes concrete goals. And in this way to help the new designers to start up and consolidate their business projects, it helps to analyze your challenges in the Market and favors their personal and professional development through their own experience in sustainable fashion.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
Interesting question! It is quite true; I believe that in part the cultural heritage that we drag is very favorable to this. The woman throughout history has made real efforts to be perfect in the eyes of man. Perhaps for that reason it has always attracted more these subjects to the woman. The cult towards beauty has always been more related to women, I suppose it has something to do.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
The satisfaction of adding value to what you do each day is the best reward you can have. Fighting for what you believe and having the opportunity to show it to others, makes me feel full and gives a full meaning to my life. I feel very lucky.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
At the moment my dedication is full at CARPEDIEM Design, although I do not rule out entering new projects and collaborations that come to me!
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Kate Fletcher, who is all a benchmark in terms of slow fashion of course!
Any recommended means of contacting CARPEDIEM Design?
If you want to contact us or visit us I leave the following links:
@carpe.D.design on Facebook
www.fairchanges.com/carpediem-design/tienda/347/
On the other hand, we are happy to welcome proposals and be able to collaborate with you!
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
I think fashion is maturing and it is becoming more responsible, it is everyone’s job, taking care of the value chain of fashion from the producer to the final consumer.
“Let’s make fashion, but let’s make it conscious, let’s buy fashion, but let’s buy it with conscience.” Make it possible!
Thank you for giving me this valuable opportunity to have been with you today, it has been a real honor.
Thank you for your time, Guadalupe.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/08
CARPEDIEM Design stems from the need to respond to social sector concerned about sustainability and innovation within the current framework of fashion. Combining natural fabrics with more technology to provide greater comfort that you saw and being environmentally friendly.
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I was born in Madrid, Spain. I´m bachelor’s in History by the UAM and later I dedicated a stage of my life to travel by diverse countries because I love knowing other cultures, thanks to my last profession of flight attendant, that help me a lot to achieve it.
You really learn many things and helps you open your mind and your perspectives. After that I came up with the idea of studying fashion design; Something that I had always liked and finished my degree in Fashion at the Polytechnic University of Madrid- CSDMM (on Sept. 2015) and On November of the same year I won the Second Prize Fashion Academy awards El Corte Ingles as fashion designer, also One of my designs was published in Meow Magazine, in the article “A living museum” on (2015) and I was selected as a new designer fashion promise in “Chueca 108 creative Festival” (2015) .
Now a day I’m Finalist in “Actua UPM”, Business creation awards, (Sept. 2016).
I’m the cofounder of CARPEDIEM Design; That I created on November 2015. It was created with the main idea of contributing value through the innovation applied to the fashion under a social ethic, and environmental. Trying to be as environmentally friendly as possible by means of more sustainable production, based on local production, highly handmade.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I think it is a way of feeling and understanding life. I, for example, have always been very sensitive about nature, animals…but I did not know the value to buy for example a T-shirt for € 10, the human rights abuses of vulnerable people behind it all.
I began to become aware in this sense since I started my studies in design at the CSDMM-UPM, and I began to become aware of this and I began to inform me about the environmental costs involved in the production of a garment…thanks in large measure to the extraordinary Work made platforms like you – Trusted Clothes, Greenpeace…and that is so necessary…I believe that there are a series of ethical values that we must respect above all and we must strive to contribute our grain of sand to make a better world, more just, equal and respectful with both humans and the environment that surrounds us and it is the work and responsibility of all.
So when I started with my design work, I wanted to establish a main idea of the brand a fundamental principle such as work without child exploitation, respectful of the environment, with a local production, highly artisan, donate a percentage of sales to social funds and our future objective is the co-participation with a group of risk of social exclusion to make part of our products. I think that fashion has to engage more actively in this sense and I like to see that there is movement and reaction in this way and the most important is that the end customer is becoming more aware of it.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
My experience in fashion is relatively short. Although I recognize that it has always fascinated me. I finished my degree in fashion design for U.P.M in CSDMM from 2011-2015.
And I made it up with some practices in some fashion companies and my collaboration in the costumes of a movie. After finishing my degree, I decided to create my own brand, where every day I learn something new, it is a constant challenge and I feel great satisfaction with it. I think fashion without commitment is not fashionable.
Since it has a high degree of responsibility in that society moves by mimicry, so if you educate yourself in healthy fashion and healthy habits I think we all win with it. That is also my commitment that motivates me to want to do it better and better in this sense every day.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
I believe that they are opening an important way of expression of fashion, which no longer seeks only to fascinate. It is providing solutions and alternatives highly creative and efficient in a somewhat obsolete capitalist system.
By proposing new, more ethical, sustainable forms of production, and leading a change in practices throughout their supply chains, supporting the work of entities such as Trusted Clothes, Greenpeace…And is that the current trend to the consumption of fast fashion (Fast fashion) generate new fashion trends in increasingly shorter cycles, which is achieved through pressure on the supplier to deliver each time their products in shorter terms, which involves cuts in labor and environmental terms.
According to Greenpeace data We would be talking about the production of about 80,000 million garments per year worldwide; The equivalent of about 11 or 12 articles per year for every inhabitant of the planet, this volume of garments made, sold and discarded. This means a very high increase in the human and environmental costs of the garment throughout its life cycle.
We must avoid to a large extent the “disposability” since it is a key in this volume of business so great and the poor quality of many products added to the low prices motivates the need to change clothes routinely and therefore, life cycles becoming shorter, even when the fabric itself could last for decades. Much of this discarded clothing comes to landfills or is incinerated.
In Germany, one million tons of clothes are thrown every year. In the United States, the 13.1 million tons of textile products generated in 2010 accounted for 5.3% of municipal waste, while in the United Kingdom, it is one million tons per year, which places fashion brands in a key sector when it comes making a more conscious production and looking for new alternatives to it.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
For me Carry Somers and Orsola de Castro for their great and untiring work of awareness through the creation of the Fashion Revolution Day, created from the tragedy of the collapse of the Rana Plaza building in Bangladesh in the year 2013, and whose work to raise awareness.
The great fashion brands, incipient designers and the final consumer about the irreversible costs of fast fashion is really admirable. On the other hand, GREENPEACE is doing an extraordinary work with the great fashion brands in the campaign Detox. And all people, companies, volunteers… that help to make it possible.
What is CARPEDIEM Design?
CARPEDIEM Design represents the timelessness of fashion, slow fashion. Under a more innovative and technological fashion design approach we want to transmit and create an ethical and exclusive fashion brand spirit where innovation and design are constantly evolving and vanguard, without losing the values of craftsmanship and the politics of respect for The environment and social commitment.
Our mission is that our vision reaches our final client and wants to be part of it, and generate an emotional bond with us. Combining natural fabrics with more technology to provide greater comfort that you saw and being environmentally friendly.
Our products are highly handmade, produced and made in Spain by CARPEDIEM Design, with unique designs and limited edition. Specialized in designs of woman, girl and accessories.
Given the uniqueness of the products we make, we work on commission, where each garment is created unique. Taste the feeling of wearing garments made with raw materials of top quality handmade which gives it a unique and different character. We are also helping to make more social aids. Do not miss it!
What are some of its feature products?
We are mainly focused on highly handmade accessories, especially handbags, and a small line of women’s clothing and some pieces of girl’s clothing. But we are expanding our offer and by the spring of 2017 we are going to launch a collection of women’s handbags that we will call capsule that we think is going to cause speculation based on a new fabric that I still cannot reveal, and we are working on it. And then we will create a collection of women capsule in the same way.
Continued in part two…
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Katherine Evans and Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Tallu & Co.
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2024/01/02
Before the Holidays, I was asked to be interviewed by Canadian journalist Scott Jacobsen around the Future of Wellness. The discussion evolved and will be featured on our first PODCAST Episode # 1 – The Future of Wellness launching January 15th 2024.
Here is a part of that conversation. Thanks for being here.
kath
xoxo
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Jacobsen: Your business, Tallu & Co, was founded two years ago. Yet, you bring a wealth of experience from the hospitality industry, particularly hotels, to wellness. To me, this speaks to caring for others’ wellness from food to sleep. You’ve seen an evolution of wellness culture over time from hotels to Tallu. How will the culture of wellness look in the next 5 to 10 years?
Evans: Wellness has, in fact, evolved over time. It was not founded as a complete system, and remains the same to this day. Our idea of wellness, year after year, changes. Where we want to travel and mingle, what we want to eat and drink, how we want to feel, what constitutes our intellectual lives, and such, these are the part and parcel of wellness in life.
What has Covid done to us and our families, it has changed many things, including our ideas of wellness, too. So, I think, wellness can be described as “overall mental, physical and peace in our lives.”
Hotels are an interesting one. We’re constantly wired and tired. Hotels are supposed to offer a break and respite from these trends of daily living. WELLNESS, today, can be measured by the amount of time away from our phone, off the grid, having experiences with people around us. We now live for more meaningful time together — and relationships are changing more and more. We have fewer friends, talk to others less, and have gone inside — to a place of inner balance, of quietude, a sanctum — to a more meaningful place.
Jacobsen: How do you differentiate fads from foundations of wellness?
Evans: I think there are always fads. The world wants a quick fix. Even though, there may not be a fix, or the fix may be the simplest remedies of rest and time with loved ones.
What I love about non-toxic living, that this is not new. This is not a fad. This is a foundational way of LIVING for us forever. The implications of toxins in our homes and workplaces will start to crop up now, if not yet. And in our kids’ behaviours, we can make powerful choices now, and make decisions that will positively benefit us in the future. Where do we shop? Where is our food grown? What toxins do we allow in our homes?
Jacobsen: What does Tallu & Co bring to the table?
Evans: A gorgeous offering of clean, small batch products designed to enhance your space you live in. Make the hard parts of the day better, by being easier, the idea is wellness as defined above. Our goal is to set a tone of WELLNESS.
Jacobsen: Why are people focused on inner peace and experiences now?
Evans: Covid forced us to go inward and sit a little longer. We learned to love to stay home. Stay close to loved ones, cook for our families and socials differently, Tallu & Co is all about wellness.
Jacobsen: Thank you for the opportunity and your time, Kath.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/07
What topics most interest you?
We are interested in exploring more ways in which cork can be used in fashion.
However, we don’t see ourselves as a brand that will be always limited to cork. This is what we focus on now, but there are also many other extremely interesting new materials that are both sustainable and fashionable.
Did you have a mentor in this work?
We don’t really have a mentor, yet we have met many people sharing their experience and giving valuable advice, for which we are extremely thankful. There is always something to learn – whether it’s someone really experienced in the industry or advice from a close friend. We hope to be able to meet even more of those supportive people on our way, as founding a fashion label from scratch can be very tough.
Have you mentored others?
We are starting to experience that young designers approach us for advice on how to build a fashion brand from scratch and we love to help out wherever we can. I think that at our current stage, we are the ones who need advice and guidanceJ
What is the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
Mentorship in the fashion industry is probably more important that in other industries. It is so competitive and fast-moving that it can be quite confusing for a young brand at times – how to create a collection that would be both unique and with commercial potential, how to prioritize time and investment.
Also, relationships and contacts tend to be extremely important. It is fantastic to have someone to guide a young designer in this or even make some introductions to people in the industry. In case you have a recommendation, we would be more than happy.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012).
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
The horrible tragedy in Pakistan was the latest large wake-up call for the industry. But these things happen every day somewhere in the world. Children are being exploited, factory workers work under unsafe and unethical working condition. Fashion of the future needs to become friendly towards the environment, humans and animals at the same time. We’re proud to be part of this movement.
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
This is sadly true and we, the consumers, are in great parts responsible for this. In Western societies we step in for human rights, including empowering women and children. But with our everyday choices we do exactly the opposite – we contribute to their exploitation.
I think that many people are not entirely aware of this, of the fact that when a T-shirt costs 10 Euros and a large company is making billions of profits – that someone is paying for that – mostly the weakest and most vulnerable.
Even small brands like us can make a difference. By creating our products sustainably and ethically and at least we do not support this system. And we can help change consumers’ mindset for what a “fair” price for a bag, or any product, should be.
Our price point is – contrary to some opinion – not a premium price chosen by us. It is the price we need to charge to pay for the materials, which are all produced in Europe under fair working conditions, as well as for labour. Our mark up is tiny and might or might not cover our long-term cost of running the business.
A bag made as sustainably and fair as ours needs to cost at least what it costs.
However, I think it is the big players like H&M and Inditex that have the power to truly improve conditions. Instead of launching “ethical” collections it should be a no-brainer to produce ethically across their entire portfolio.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
Now you’re raising a big topic.
Why is it that more men are engineers than women, I could ask?
But putting aside a larger gender discussion, I think that women simply tend to be more interested in fashion and clothes. Men tend to be more pragmatic in the choice of their wardrobe.
I don’t really have a better explanation, but curious to hear if you have one. ![]()
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
The fulfillment is immense. We created this brand from a vision, a vague idea and we have made it come to live. We did not have any experience or contact in the fashion industry, so we really did everything ourselves from scratch. It is extremely though, yet so rewarding.
I don’t have children, but it does feel a little bit like our “baby” – the brand has its own soul and I can’t wait to see it grow…
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
Both my business partner and I still have day jobs. My business partner works in marketing and I work with marketing/sales for a large tech-company.
We don’t have an investor and do everything “organically”, so our returns do not make us a living yet. I hope this will change soon.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Some of my favourite fashonistas are my friends. I love it when people have their own style and wear it with confidence. When they have a great personality too, I think that makes all the difference for their style.
Any recommended means of contacting LE SURI Ltd?
Shoot me an email to nina@le-suri.com, I promise I will reply!
We are based in London and Dublin and in case anyone is curious about our brand and products, we are happy to meet up for a coffee!
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
Honestly? Some of the questions you asked (regarding the social responsibility of fashion designers) made me sad, because it made me realize again how big the problem is – not only in fashion but in so many other industries as well.
It really made me realize that what we are doing is maybe more important than I thought. Thanks!
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/07
LE SURI is an innovative handbag label creating unique handbags made from 100 % cork. The line features highest quality natural materials – organically grown, locally harvested and produced. Read more about our interview with Le Suri’s co-founder Nina Tack.
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
My name is Nina. I’m 29 years old. I am currently living in Dublin, Ireland – this is where LE SURI is headquartered. My business partner lives in London, which is our “design hub.” Luckily, those cities are well connected and it is only a 45 min flight, so even though we collaborate virtually most of the time, we can hop on a plane whenever we feel an urge to see each other face to face.
My family background is half German half Polish, but I was born and raised in Bonn, Germany. Throughout the past decade I have travelled a lot and have lived in several different countries, including Australia, Brazil, Portugal and the UK, before I moved to Ireland in the beginning of 2016, following my partner.
I hold a Master’s degree in Economics and a Master’s in International Management. After graduation, I first started to work in the education industry for a private education company, first as an executive assistant and then in sales. I have always wanted to do interesting work that would have a positive impact on society. At the same time, I have also always strived for independence. Having my own company has been my dream for a long time.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
We, the founders of LE SURI, Nina and Paab met in London in 2013 through a common friend. The first thing that brought us together was vegan cooking. We soon also discovered that we share a passion for fashion and design.
At the same time, we both felt that sadly, the exploitation of animals, humans and the environment are prevalent in the mass fashion industry. We believed that there must be another way of creating beautiful fashion without sacrificing on ethical values.
The idea for designing bags from 100% cork came when I was living in Portugal, the “home country” of cork. It is there that I first discovered cork, it’s incredible qualities and versatile ways in which it is used.
We saw that cork was already used here and there in accessories, but on a small scale by local handicraft to create souvenirs. We immediately thought that this material is amazing and has the potential to be recognized widely beyond the borders of Southern Europe and even revolutionize the entire handbag industry.
We felt, however, that it has never been given the design-attention that it deserves, so our mission became to revamp the image of cork by creating bags in contemporary design made from ethical and sustainable high quality materials.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
In my studies and professional experience, I have learnt quite a bit about marketing, which is a very important aspect of launching and running a successful fashion brand. The industry is so competitive and even when you know you have a great product and you’re convinced that there is a large audience looking for exactly what you have to offer, the challenging part is to reach those people. That’s essentially what marketing is to me.
We are newcomers to the fashion industry. It is our first label and we have never worked for any other brand before, therefore this is for us a unique journey where we are both learning and supporting each other in designing, material sourcing, manufacturing process, logistics, marketing etc.
Both of us have a business background which helps us to manage the company with a cold head. Paab has also studied interior design in the UK, however our main creative skills for designing our handbags come from pure passion for fashion.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
The challenges that the fashion industry is facing today are enormous. It is both the consumers and large fashion manufacturers that need to be made responsible for the situation that the industry is in – Consumers who want cheap new clothes every season and fashion manufacturers that respond to this and fuel this demand by ever lowering prices and production cost.
The price we pay as a global society are unethical working conditions, child labour, pollution, violation of animal rights…Change is long overdue but too hard to bring about for one single brand alone. Therefore, we need to change the industry one brand and one consumer at a time. Sustainable fashion designers play a pivotal role in this change.
They are the ones experimenting with new design concepts and presenting them to the consumer. Consumers are also seeking out those products more and more. The industry is moving in the right way and I hope that the number on the designer and consumer side will increase.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
Luckily there are more and more innovative brands dedicated to creating beautiful designs with 100% commitment to sustainability. Not necessarily only in the handbags space but look for example at Shrimps, which have changed the perception of faux fur or Uashmama who designs small household accessories and everyday bags from washable, waterproof paper.
Those brands are our heroes, as they are a transformational transformational force in the industry. When it comes to luxury sustainable handbags, there is no doubt that Stella McCartney has achieved a unique reputation for focusing on beautiful designs without making the sustainability of her bags her primary value proposition. She is a great role model and inspiration for us in that sense.
What is LE SURI Ltd?
LE SURI is newcomer fashion brand creating unique premium handbags in contemporary designs made 100% from cork – an innovative and sustainable material with similar qualities to animal leather.
We see ourselves as a transformational force within the fashion industry by redefining the rules of the traditional leather handbag industry.
Our mission is to become the first globally recognized fashion brand to have introduced cork as a reputable alternative to leather to a wider fashion-savvy audience – based on the stunning look and qualities of cork – not only based on the sustainability aspect of it.
What are some of its feature products?
Our debut collection is a handbag line which consists of 4 handbag models for men and women in various colour combinations.
In our first collection we wanted to showcase the beauty of cork both as a very natural as well as a modern and contemporary material. Therefore, we have chosen to combine cork in plain colors such as natural, black and navy with an ultra modern cork material with silver square shapes.
Geometrical shapes symbolize timelessness, elegance and modernity which is exactly what we want to embody with our brand. We have hence chosen squares to be not only the leading pattern in our first collection, but also they are represented in our logo and social media.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Our clientele is fashion savvy, eco and socially conscious consumers who are confident about their own style and are open for experimenting with their cloakroom and trying new concepts and brands. Typically aged 25-40, well travelled and living in larger cities.
Our customers are well-aware of the global issues facing the fashion industry and would like to contribute with their choice as consumers to it’s gradual transformation. Primarily our customers love great design and value uniqueness and high quality.
Continued in part two…
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/01/16
Continued from Part one
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). How do tragedies shed light on work conditions in garment factories?
This is actually an interesting question – in some ways, mostly very short-term, they can help the workers. But for the most part they are simply a diversion and the companies that employ sub-standard methods are never really held accountable. The amount of din helps the consumer to believe something is being done, even though nothing is actually changing. For more information, you can check out this article I wrote on safe working conditions in the wake of factory disasters.
Women and children remain the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
Women and children are absolutely a focus, especially since they have less resources at their disposal that they can employ to affect change. But we should not be mistaken – the families these women and children come from also have men that are being equally as exploited, just in other industries. It shouldn’t matter if it’s fashion or a dog toy, being aware of the atrocities of the supply chain are a consumer responsibility and only by taking action (by supporting responsible companies) will we make things better for anyone.
Who is a women’s rights and children’s rights activist or campaigner hero for you?
This may sound callous, but I am less concerned with human rights than animal and environmental rights. Humans have control of their existence. It is not always a lot of control, but their are always choices to be made. I am primarily libertarian in ideology so I do not believe in coddling people – whatever your situation, it is up to you to make it better. They have ways to fight their own battles. Animals, on the other hand, are truly oppressed and can not change their situation without our help. The environment then suffers the consequences of our actions, and soon none of us will have a choice about much of anything. I love David Suzuki, the Canadian environmentalist, for his ideas about working with the earth (for example, why do we farm cows in Australia where no cow exists naturally?). I also love Anita Roddick and Jane Goodall for the work they’ve done with animals. And I think Al Gore should be acknowledged for his efforts at bringing the idea of sustainability to the general masses.
The Gender Inequality Index (GII) relates to the empowerment of women, gender equality, and international women’s rights. The progress for gender equity is positive. Regressive forces exist in explicit and implicit forms. What seem like some of the explicit and implicit forms observed in personal and professional life to you?
There are certainly a lot of things that can be said about gender equality, but I think the aspect that gets lost in all of the din is the insidious detail of it. There are many large strides being made in effort of equality, but there is this unspoken stigma in being a woman that permeates your entire life.
When I was old enough to drive and work and make a life for myself, I would meet many new people, groups of friends would merge, overlap, or divide, and so I was often in situations where introductions were required. What I started to notice is that, if I was the only female in the group, I would not be introduced. It’s a small thing, hardly noticeable. But I noticed. And I felt it. And it shaped the opinions I have and the social niceties that I employ. So while I think we should continue working towards equality, we can’t forget to address the ideals and attitudes that shaped the inequality to begin with.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations, women and children, in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
The most important thing a consumer can do is vote with their dollar. If you don’t buy products that are mass produced using slave labour, require toxic chemicals, and basically just abuse the supply chain, they won’t make them. It’s. That. Simple.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at most levels. Why?
Tradition? Fashion really became a woman’s game around the turn of the 20th century – early periods saw men’s fashion hold a much higher considered importance. There were a number of factors that lead to this, but I personally think those reasons are going extinct and we are seeing greater involvement from men going forward.
Also, more men than women appear at the highest ends of the business ladder in fashion. Why?
Again, tradition? Men have traditionally taken more senior management roles than women, and within fashion, the manager is not always the designer. I think many companies would have felt a man from a different field would make a better CEO than a woman from within the fashion industry.
What might make men more involved in the fashion world in general?
As we relax the stereotypes about what are acceptable behaviors/interests for males versus females, I believe men will look more towards the fashion industry as a way to express their individuality. As I said earlier, it took me a long time to realize that fashion designers are not fashionistas – there are many roles within the industry that would appeal to people that are not necessarily fashion-oriented, and designing is only one of them.
What might make men more involved in the ethical and sustainable fashion world in general?
I think the barrier to entry is the same for everyone: knowledge. The more you know the more you will feel the need to do better.
Will having men in the discussion and on-the-ground improve the implementation of children’s and women’s rights?
I’m almost a little offended by the premise of this question. It is not about women’s rights, or children’s rights, or men’s rights…It is about the rights of humans, the rights of animals, and the rights of the Earth.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
Every person who buys one of my pieces has made a decision to do better by the world. There are a lot of people that absolutely do not care, so having this reassurance, that someone besides myself does care, is the hope that sustains my optimism.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
I’ve done a lot of volunteering in the past, but recently I turned my attention to writing. I have a wealth of information accumulated over the years, and I love sharing it with anyone that wants to learn. You can find my work on my website and on Socially Conscious Brands.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
For anyone just starting to shape their beliefs, I recommend Tom Robbins. I also love the Earth’s Children series by Jean Auel, and the Hitchhiker’s Trilogy by Douglas Adams.
Almost any dystopian speculative fiction can be eye opening to our current situation, but my favorite authors are Neal Stephenson and Margaret Atwood. Jennifer Nini is a (non)fashionista whom I follow – I love her attitude about life! I think fashion (should be) too personal to follow someone simply for their style, but Jennifer, TheYarina (Fashion Hedge), and Livia Firth are all spreading important ideas!
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, JuliaEden Designs?
You can easily contact me through my website. I welcome all inquiries and am open to all opportunities!
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in business for you?
Design can be very personal…I knew I was creating something different, something that doesn’t exist anywhere else, and that is very scary. I am still struggling to believe that there are enough people out there that also like what I do to sustain my business (and to help it grow to become the non-profit I am dreaming of).
What has been the greatest emotional struggle in personal life for you?
I have dealt with a multitude of existential crises and a wealth of chemical imbalances, but the most recent example of emotional struggle that comes to mind is Bowie’s death. That hit me hard and I still have a difficult time when I think about it. The reasons why are pretty personal.
What philosophy makes most sense of life to you?
Whatever you get when you cross Taoism with Absurdism. I may not always achieve that level of peace with my surroundings, but it’s comforting to try. I think it was best summed up by Angel, “if nothing we do matters, then all that matters is what we do”.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
I think the main thing that people need to remember is that they have an incredible amount of power, and if they choose not to use that power by not being informed about the consumer choices they make, then that power is wasted.
Thank you for your time, Julia.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/16
Outsider was launched in 2009 with a mission statement that set the scene “Ethical fashion should just look like fashion”. Read more about our interview with Noorin Khamisani and her views on the fast fashion.
I was born in London to a Polish mother and Indian father. I grew up speaking both English and Polish. I was raised knowing some of my family were Muslim, some were Roman Catholic. I found Buddhism in my twenties.
What is your personal story – education, prior work, and so on?
I studied Fashion Design at UCA Rochester, upon graduation I worked for independent designers such as Jessica Ogden, Ann-Sofie Back, Susan Cianciolo and Jonathon Saunders. I then worked for more conventional brands including Debenhams, Hobbs and Ted Baker. These differing companies gave a strong grounding in understanding the fashion industry.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I was always interested in natural fibres and vintage fabrics and a slower approach to design as championed by Jessica Ogden and Susan Cianciolo back in the late 90s early 00s. Then as I worked for bigger high street brand I learnt about the challenges of managing large international supply chains. So for me it was a slow process over a number of years as I learnt about the ethical and environmental impact of the fashion industry my interest grew and developed.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
By working with consideration for ethics and sustainability they/we offer an alternative. It’s a demonstration that fashion can be designed, manufactured, marketed and sold in a different way. This is essential to lead by example and hopefully inspire more and more companies to work in more responsible ways.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
It’s not strictly speaking “fashion” but it is clothing related, so Yvon Chounard of Patagonia is a hero for me. He has been trailblazing and leading by example for many many years. Their bravery and openness is very inspiring and has pushed many other large companies to make changes to their supply chains.
What is Outsider?
An ethical and sustainable fashion label specialising in timeless versatile womenswear.
What inspired the title of the organization?
It is a reference to offering an alternative. We create fashion items but from different materials and with more focus on ethics, so we are on the periphery of the conventional fashion world. Or at least we were when we launched in 2009. Happily, we have seen many changes in the industry over the last 7 years, although there is a long way to go. The name Outsider was also a reference to the impact we can have by choosing an alternative to fast fashion – “It just takes one Outsider to make a difference”.
What are some of its feature products?
We specialize in dresses as they can be so versatile as part of your wardrobe. Our favourite style is the shirt dress as it is so timeless and can work from desk to dinner with just a change of accessories.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Women from a wide age range, we have customers from their early 20s to 60s. Currently our main customer base is in the UK but we are reaching more and more European customers now we have launched a site in Euro.
What topics most interest you?
Sustainable fabric innovation is my passion. I love the amazing solutions coming through to the challenges faced by the fashion industry. It’s incredible how waste streams from milk, oranges and pineapple have been used to create new fabrics.
Have you mentored others?
I teach part-time at London College of Fashion and have interns working with me, so I have mentored fashion students. I really hope to ensure the next generation of fashion designers are better informed, so they can make more ethical and sustainable choices.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
Fashion is such a competitive industry, mentors can help to guide and encourage persistence which is so needed for success.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). How do tragedies shed light on work conditions in garment factories?
These tragedies highlight how much more work needs to be done by large brands to ensure their supply chains are ethical. The main issue is the separation that has been created between brands and factories. But when these tragedies occur and we see they are producing for well-known brands, it reminds us all that they are responsible for ensuring that working conditions are safe. Without those skilled people there would be no clothing to sell.
Women and children remain the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
It is crucial we keep moving towards equal rights and pay for women and that all workers are paid a living wage to ensure that children can attend school (and not have to work). This is a key consideration for all fashion brands to ensure they are monitoring their supply chains.
Child labor and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labor. A few million children in the case of child slavery. According to the Minimum Age Convention (1973), labor before the age of 14, 15, or 16, dependent upon the country, is child labor. The Convention on the Rights of the Child (1989) represent the importance of children’s rights on the ‘international stage’ in Article 2(2), Article 3(1) Article 3(2). In addition, International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights (1966) in Article 24(1-3) and International Covenant on Economic, Social and Cultural Rights (1966) in Article 10(3) delineate the importance of children’s rights too. These stipulations about equality remain violated in the fashion industry, especially the manufacturing sector or the garment industry. How can individuals get the word out about these extreme children’s rights violations?
In this area social media can be extremely powerful in sharing information and highlighting issues which the mass media often chooses to ignore. Starting petitions, sharing stories and questioning brands are all good starting points.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
I have always loved fashion but when I learnt more about the issues surrounding sustainability and ethics I had to reassess that love. For me creating a fashion item responsibly and consciously and then seeing that item picked up by a customer is very fulfilling. Even more so when that customer wears their item for a long time and in many ways. That is how we fight fast fashion, but developing long term relationships with our clothes.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
Sass Brown has written some great books and also compiles fantastic information on her website all about ethical and sustainable fashion.
Any recommended means of contacting, even becoming involved with, Outsider?
We are on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and share ethical fashion news through our blog.
Thank you for your time, Noorin.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/06
Continued from Part 1 here
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights?
I think they are inextricably linked. Women are still the main caregivers, and are thus in a very good position to make informed decisions on what is ultimately good for them and for their children. It is important to give women the opportunity to have a say at all levels in the light of this.
Child labour and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labour and a few million for child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these other rights violations?
First, we need to care. We have become somewhat desensitized due to an overload of media and information. We need to consider the impact of certain practices as happening to real human beings. We also need to do our best to make a difference in our own communities and work practices to start with. One person can make a difference. We also have more opportunities to share information about inequalities through the internet, but it is getting harder to verify the sources and accuracy of information. I guess the key thing is, change needs to start with ME.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
As I said earlier in this interview, people in the industry and consumers will actually benefit from changing their attitudes and practices, including financially. One online business I have looked at is providing housing and education to its workers, and the payback is better productivity and standard of product. (www.shopvida.com)
What topics most interest you?
Fashion, art, design, sustainability, natural dyes, stitching in all its forms – not necessarily in that order!
Did you have a mentor in this work?
Over the years, I have attended many workshops with both local and international tutors. They have all played an important part in mentoring me, but I do work alone a lot.
Have you mentored others?
Yes, by hosting and/or tutoring workshops, hosting exhibitions, and working with small groups and individuals. This has taken place mostly at my business, but also sometimes at other venues and events around Australia.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
I think it is important, so that good ethics and practices can be shared. Sometimes people have a certain mindset, and having a mentor can help them to see new possibilities and make attitudinal changes.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
This could be because people think that the fashion industry isn’t an acceptable masculine line of work. Having said that, we have a male couturier and teacher in Launceston, so it can happen! I think we should focus more on talent and opportunity for all, rather than just gender.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
I find it immensely satisfying. I love doing what I do, and I’m very content with where I am and where I am heading.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
I am on a local committee which has just established a local handmade market this year, focusing on the talents of our local artists, makers and producers. I handle the publicity, and I also participate as a stallholder. (www.facebook.com/thestableshandmademarkettasmania)
From time to time I also write for magazines. My most recent published article is ‘Collaborating with Nature’, in the current issue of Down Under Textiles (produced by Practical Publishing Pty Ltd).
Any recommended authors or fashionistas (or fashionistos)?
I am intrigued by Julian Roberts’ subtraction pattern cutting ideas, and would like to pursue my own designs using his methods. I also love India Flint’s work, particularly her costume designs.
Any recommended means of contacting Gone Rustic?
I can be contacted via email or online:
www.facebook.com/gonerusticstudiogallery
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
One thing I would like to stress is that it is never too late to follow your dreams. Age is not an issue – energy, ideas and enthusiasm are not limited unless we limit them. Often it is our own mindset that we need to overcome.
I really appreciate your giving me the opportunity to talk about what I do via this interview – thank you!
Thank you for your time, Rita.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/06
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I am happily married to Ian, and have 2 adult children and 1 grandchild. I was born in Canada to Dutch parents, but have lived in Tasmania Australia since I was in highschool. It’s a great place to live and work! I have a Bachelor’s Degree in Education, with an Art Major. In later years I also gained a Diploma in Art Craft Design. I own and operate a gallery and studio in the northeast country town of St Marys, which I opened in 2003. I rented a building to begin with, and the following year my husband and I purchased and renovated the current premises. I have worked in education at various levels as a teacher; I have also worked in management in community organisations.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
When I was young, I was always drawing and designing clothes. I made clothes for my dolls and my sisters’ dolls, and later for myself and then my children. There were no opportunities in Tasmania to follow fashion as a career, so my life took a different path for many years. I have always been interested in fabric and sewing, and since opening my gallery have established myself as a textile artist, focusing on both hand and machine techniques. In the process I have been fortunate to win a number of awards and have my work exhibited widely.
I have been eco dyeing fabrics for my textile art since 2008, but after learning from fellow textile artist Aukje Boonstra that vintage nylon could be dyed naturally my imagination took off and I was able to indulge in my first love – fashion! I often use upcycled materials in my textile art, so it was only a small step to upcycle clothing. I now also have a new Blue Label range which includes clothing I’ve made myself, using found and eco dyed fabrics. I still continue to expand my upcycled clothing range with eco dyeing as well.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
Many people have a narrow view of what art is. My fine arts background has given me the confidence and knowledge to push the boundaries of this perception. Art can be made with any medium – artists of the past have shown us that! I bring the principles of fine art to my work, but reinvent it and make it my own. I don’t only enter textile art exhibitions; I also enter mainstream art exhibitions, and have been juried into them a number of times. I also won a national art award which was very affirming! Hopefully there will be more …
It has also been extremely useful to work in management and in community organisations. I believe we need to invest in the communities we live in, especially rural areas, and this has been my focus in opening my business. The result has been that my arts practice has also benefited in unexpected ways!
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
I believe it is extremely important! People in this industry often work in substandard and dangerous conditions, and some have lost their lives because of this. The industry is also very wasteful, and in our consumer society we throw out so many clothes after wearing them only a few times. This leads to land fill problems. What also concerns me is that the processes used to manufacture and dye commercial fabrics are often detrimental to the environment and to workers’ health. I am only one person with a very small business, but it is important to me to do things in the right way, and to give cast off garments a new life and prevent them from being wasted. In this way I feel that I am honouring the work of some anonymous textile worker by giving a garment a new life by reinventing it. I also hope I am making a difference to perceptions about fashion, and try to lead by personal example.
When I use new fabrics, I mostly use remnants, i.e. the leftovers from other people’s sewing, or the ‘end of roll’ bargains in stores and online. Again, I am salvaging something that is deemed to have little or no value, and giving it a new purpose, I also do not import natural dyes. I use what is available around me, so that I don’t add to my carbon footprint. This includes plants and leaves from our own property, from the roadside, other people’s gardens (with permission) and even onion skins from our local supermarket which would normally be thrown out!
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
There are many people I admire, most of whom are not famous or even hugely successful. I follow them on Instagram, go to their workshops when I can and network with them online and face to face whenever possible. Recently I attended a Sustainable Living Festival in Hobart, and had a stall there in company with other Tasmanian ethical and sustainable fashion designers and makers. We also featured our clothing in a Fashion Parade during the event. It was an inspiring time, and these grass roots artists are the people I truly admire.
Having said that, I have a collection of books by authors who I greatly respect and from whom I’ve learned so much in relation to eco dyeing but also other processes. Two that come to mind are Alice Fox and India Flint. I have also attended workshops by Tasmanian tutor Aukje Boonstra (mentioned above), whose practices, art and garments are exceptional.
Eco dying by Gone Rustic- Two tops, a scarf and a tunic eco dyed with native cherry + copper; wrapped around iron springs or bars. Layered with 2 kinds of eucalyptus leaves.
What is Gone Rustic?
Gone Rustic is my studio and gallery, based in a renovated building in the main street of our town. This is where I create and display my art and fashion. Until recently, I have also hosted regular exhibitions of other artists, particularly local and regional, to encourage them and bring their work into the public eye. After 13 years, I feel it is time for a change of direction, so the building is on the market. I will keep the business, but will operate it in a different way. I have had an online presence for a number of years and want to build on that, as well as hosting workshops and retreats on some land we have purchased and are building on. My other aim is to participate more in events and markets, which I can only do occasionally now because of my business commitments. I am looking forward to being more flexible, but I will miss the studio and gallery!
What are some of its feature products?
My sign says it all! The jewellery and skin care products are sold on consignment from local makers, but everything else is my work.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
It is mainly women, but the men sometimes come in and buy things for their wives, or attend exhibitions that I host. I sell to the local population, the tourists who visit our area and increasingly online. These days, I am not limited by my geographic isolation.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
I think these rights are important across the board, not just in the garment industry. Everyone deserves respect, fair treatment and fair pay. We all need to be appreciated for our skills, and what we earn and how and where we have to work must reflect this. I also believe there are financial benefits to employers and society in general – workers who are paid and treated well will often work harder and show more commitment to their jobs. They will tend to stay longer in the same job, and remain in their local communities. By treating them fairly, workers can invest financially and emotionally in their places of residence. The health benefits are also potentially immense, with less job dissatisfaction or fear of the future. This would improve physical and mental health I’m sure. Call me an idealist, but we underestimate the value of happiness and contentment in our work.
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
As a woman, and a mother and grandmother, I believe the rights of women and children are vital. We have still not come far enough in treating people of all ages and gender in an equitable and fair manner. This includes western society, but especially those living and working in third world countries.
Continued in part two…
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/04
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights?
In BIBICO, we work with WFTO organizations, see link: http://wfto.com/. The ladies’ organization that we work with in India and Nepal make sure that all of the principals of fair trade are applied every single day.
The core of our business is social, really making sure that no kids are involved in the production of our clothes, and making sure that there is zero discrimination. 99.9% of our staff are ladies. Ladies that come from the street and thanks to working with the cooperatives they get the chance to come out of poverty through work and lots of social coaching to try to bring them out of the poverty chain.
The fact that some of the major high street brands have been abusing people to produce their low cost clothes ranges is unhuman. Everyone should know that behind a t-shirt that cost £5 there should be someone on the other end been exploit.
The story behind kids and ladies exploitation on the fashion world is a long one that cant be explain on an interview…I’ve seen myself how desperate mothers prefer to send their kids to work to earn some money rather than send them to school…
We are really talking the bottom of the human pyramid….but it really exists. It is there!!!! To make those mothers understand that education is the way to get them out of poverty is hard to understand when you don’t have anything to eat……but it all comes from education, and in our ladies’ cooperatives we not only educate the mothers, but we also offer a free in-house kindergarten for all ladies’ kids, and schooling service for mature kids.
Women’s and kids’ right are a must…everyone in this world should have rights…but in these societies we are talking about how they divide themselves in the caste system, and depending on what caste you are born you have rights or not…. It is not just up to us in the West to help them with their rights. It is their own developing society that needs to change. They need to support each other and bring some balance.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
With all the work that I’ve done, and the super long hours that I put into the business, I often forget what is behind BIBICO. We are not a charity, we are a business so often I forget all the social work and care that is behind each product. But deep down I feel super proud of helping others with my work, I wish I could help more, but we are only a small company trying our best to change the way fashion works.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
I’ve started to work with a supplier in India that work with a charity of underprivileged kids. In India, life could be very harsh for lots, and more for families with disabled kids. This organization gives them schooling and work. It is a really great organization and I am proud to be part of it.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas?
We are not into the crazy fashion work. I’ve been there already when I started to work on fashion at the age of 18. Now, I just believe in nice, simple, wearable quality products to wear now and in 10 years. We are not a fashion lead company.
Any recommended means of contacting BIBICO?
You can contact us through our website. We are always there to discuss and give advice.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
I just wish more people could see the effort behind any ethical brand. Still to this day, people don’t know the amount of extra work involved behind in any of our products. I am working with people that don’t come from a fashion background. People that don’t wear the same clothes as us in the western world. People from a completely different culture and background…so every new design, every new piece needs to be discussed and made 10 times before getting it right. So, I will really hope that people could have the time to read more about what is behind each piece of clothing…I really hope the clothes could talk!!!!
Thank you for your time, Snow and Tim.
Thanks to you, Scott.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/04
Bibico is an ethical clothing brand reknown for its simple effortless style. Their clothes are made from the best quality natural materials and produced in fair trade cooperatives, certified by the World Fair Trade Organisation. Read more about Bibico with our interview with Snow, Bibico’s founder and designer.
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I am a 39-year-old mother of 2 little girls. I come from the north of Spain, but have been living in the UK for the last 10 years. I did my fashion degree in France and worked for major high street brands, including ZARA, for over 12 years before I started with BIBICO on 2008.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
After working for over 12 years on high street fashion, I got very disappointed on the speed and heartlessness of the fashion world. When I started to work on the fashion business in 1997 with Zara we used to produce 1 collection every 6 months. By the time I finished working for the high street fashion in 2008 for Topshop London, we were producing new collections every week and putting big pressure on price and on the whole production chain….it was too unhuman for me to be part of it so I quit my job in the fashion industry to prove to people that making slow high street fashion at good prices was possible.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
I’ve been working in the fashion industry since I was 18. I’ve seen with my own eyes lot’s of changes in the fashion world. The information is there, the problem is some people don’t want to see it….I used to get really down when I was working in London for a major high street brand and used to give instructions to mature Chinese ladies working form a garage in London and getting pay less than £5 per hour
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
Show to the high street world that ethical fashion is possible. Be transparent and inform people…most of the people don’t know what is behind their clothes…they just consume….we need to educate people….hard work in this high spending society!!!
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
The ladies that work for us are my heroines…The Spanish lady that set up the cooperative I work with in India. She started to work with underprivileged people in the 60’s…she was the pioneer of the ethical world…She did change the lives of thousands of ladies…
What is BIBICO?
An ethical company that wants to prove to people that every day ethical clothing is possible
What are some of its feature products?
Our hand knitted jumpers are always very popular. I guess it is hard to find a hand knitted jumper out there, and people can really appreciate the amount of work behind one hand knitted jumper…someone has been knitting for 3 to 5 days to finish one jumper, and each piece is unique and made with pure wool……amazing!
What is your customer base – the demographics?
40- to 60-year-old ladies that believe in good quality products and prefer to buy less but good.
Did you have a mentor in this work?
No, I wish I had one. I come from a family of hard working self-employed people, so I guess they were my mentors.
Have you mentored others?
No, but I will do…I think it is amazing to give back…experience is everything…you can learn lots from book, but the advice of someone that comes from the same background is priceless.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
Always great to have mentors, but they must come from the same background as you, and from a hand-on experience…There are a lot of mentors out there but they are academic mentors…a good mentor is someone that has done it, not someone that has studied it!!!!
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
I guess us ladies are more into fashion than men. We like to feel good and look good. And for centuries we have been told to knit, stitch, and fix things around the house…For example, 99% of the knitters that make our hand knitted jumpers come from rural Nepal where knitting has always been a necessity and pastime skill. In Nepal, ladies are knitting everywhere, for the house it is necessity, but also as a pass time craft, chatting with their friends over some tea!!!!
Continued on to part two.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/12/03
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of te status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
The maxim, since we do not conceive child exploitation, it is something that must be eradicated. All children must have the right to be educated and right to a childhood, to be children, to play, to be formed, to be happy, this would be a fair world, does a child have the same value as a garment? And not only in the world of fashion, child exploitation is present in many industries, and is regrettable.
Equally, in the case of women, no human being should be exploited under any circumstances.
For these are very important to the work of many organizations of labor with women who have been exploited, which seems to us a great initiative to give them a better life, so that they have access to decent work.
In regards to Blue Dolls®, we have made the complete production process internally since the year 2013, in our own company. We create fair and decent jobs. We respect everyone who collaborates with us.
Previously, we made our collections in local factories with the same philosophy.
We have always supported decent work.
Ethical fashion doesn’t include exploitation of any kind.
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights?
In my view, if in the most vulnerable societies the wages and rights of women were to be equated with that of men, they would not resort to child exploitation, since conjugal family income would be sufficient for family support.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
I think many designers and independent brands are already that way. The problem is with the large fashion industries, unfortunately is a matter of margins and benefits, can the large industries change their attitude?
I think that today there is a lot of information about exploitation in the fashion industry. There are a lot of documentaries. There is talk about it in television programs, in the television news, and so on.
There are constant publications on this subject, but we still see long lines in the mega stores of brands of mass clothing that are still full of people buying in their stores.
If the final consumer is informed and refuses to buy manufactured clothing under exploitation, that would be the end of the problem.
On the other hand, it is true that more and more people are interested in knowing how the garments they buy have been made. That is our public.
What to do? Not to be part of it, not to manufacture in a situation of exploitation. As a brand, we have the responsibility to inform ourselves, to know exactly where and how our garments are made. As a consumer, we must do the same.
What topics most interest you?
Personally, I am interested in topics related to art. I like to enjoy a good exhibition. A good book, music, movies, and everything that nourishes my soul and my mind; on the other hand, I am also informed of the current policy. It is important to be up-to-date, especially when in our country we are going through a somewhat “moved” stage in that aspect, and of course, I am interested in the world of fashion, in all its aspects.
Did you have a mentor in this work?
A specific mentor…no, I have 18 years of experience in the fashion business, during my stages I have learned a lot in different companies, colleagues, department heads, etc., my own experience has been my mentor.
Have you mentored others?
During a stage of my life. I was working as a teacher of fashion design. I don’t know if this can be considered mentoring, but it is closest as I’ve been to it.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
I imagine that if you have a mentor it should be something important and special, someone to guide you and avoid some mistakes, facilitate the way… but I think this figure of the mentor is not very common in Spain.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
Personally, I don’t have that opinion. At least, in the environments in which I have seen, in the companies that I have worked, the factories with which we have collaborated, I have always seen men in this profession…Perhaps less than women, but it happens in many professions, more women than men, and vice versa.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
For me, it is a complete personal fulfillment. It isn’t only a job. For me, and my business partner, it is a way of life. We feel proud of our work. We feel full with what we do. Our motor is the illusion, motivation, and love we feel for our work.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
In addition to our Fashion Brand Blue Dolls®, we also have a little clothes factory, AD&LOP, in our factory we give support to independent designers and author fashion brands like ours.
Since we don’t demand a high minimum of productions, as this is a problem with which the independent design is found, many factories demand lots of clothes to manufacture, that the independent designers cannot assume, in our workshop they find the support and the advice to carry out their productions of limited edition or to initiate their first collection.
We carry out the processes of design of garments, pattern construction, confection, cut, everything that involves the development of a collection. We also have many customers who make sustainable fashion, because in our small factory we work with an ethical development.
Any recommended means of contacting Blue Dolls?
All stores, and customer who wants to buy ethical fashion, made with love, passion, and respect for this work.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
The feeling that we are doing a good job, that we are many who think that another way of doing things is possible, that there are many people who want change, that is very positive.
Thank you for your time, Marcia.
Thanks to you for this opportunity, Scott.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/11/30
Belvele’s founder, Monica Rojas, became fascinated with fashion at a young age. She has worked in the industry for 10 years in various roles, including management, merchandising, and buying. Read more about our interview with her.
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I was born in Switzerland, and my family is from Ecuador. I spent six years living in each country before moving to the United States at age 12. I became fascinated with fashion at a young age, but I decided to study business management in college, and completed a Master’s in Business Administration a few years later. I have worked in the fashion industry for 10 years in various roles, including management, merchandising, and buying.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I became interested in sustainable fashion once I realized I was contributing to all the negative hidden costs associated with this industry. Just a few months after the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse, I decided to finally take sewing lessons, as making and designing my own clothes had been a dream of mine for years. I apprenticed with Cherry Barthel in Kansas City, and it was evident to me very quickly that the amount of labor it takes to produce a garment is not reflected in the price.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
As I began trying to shop more consciously and make my own clothing, I learned more and more about the devastating effects on the environment due to the production and overconsumption of clothing. Eventually, I realized the best way to leverage my experience and skills to improve this industry would be by creating a platform to promote ethical fashion designers.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
We believe in showcasing the people behind the clothes– the entrepreneurs, designers, and artisans who turn a concept into wearable art. They represent fashion, or what we believe fashion SHOULD be: design, craftsmanship, and sustainability.
One of the reasons people consume mindlessly these days is that there is an assumption that producing these things is easy, that there must be a machine making them. The fact is that in 2016, there is still a person cutting and sewing your shirt, attaching sequins to your dress by hand. They deserve safe working conditions and fair compensation for their labor.
We believe that when people know the story of the people behind the products, they find more value in those items. They are more willing to invest in pieces of higher quality, and to take better care of those items. Fashion is not disposable.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
There’s a multitude of inspiring and influential people in the sustainable fashion world. I would say one of my favorites is Emma Watson. She realized how much influence she has, how much exposure she gets on every action she does, every dress she wears to an event. She is using that platform to inform her fans of issues that matter to her. This is especially meaningful to me in contrast to so many other celebrities out there, who accept sponsorships from any fashion brand or participate in product collaborations without paying any attention to the production process of the garments they are helping to promote.
What is Belvele LLC?
Belvele is a carefully curated online boutique featuring men’s and women’s garments that are responsibly sourced, while maintaining a fresh, contemporary aesthetic. By supporting designers who use responsibly sourced materials and manufacturing processes, we help small businesses flourish, and stop contributing to the demand of products that hurt the environment and put people’s lives at risk.
What are some of its feature products?
We feature men’s and women’s clothing made with organic, natural, or recycled fibers. All products are either made in the US or fair trade certified. Designers include: Amour Vert, Apolis, Emerson Fry, Elise Ballegeer, Esby, First Rite, Groceries Apparel, Jungmaven, Maison du Soir, Miakoda NY, Micaela Greg, Make it Good Apparel, Threads 4 Thought.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Our customer base consists mainly of millennials in the United States, who are interested in supporting independent designers and/or ethical fashion.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
I believe that although technology has brought about many ways to distract ourselves from things that matter, at least part of our generation is using technology to learn more about how the world works and connect with people around the globe. The garment industry has been profiting through the exploitation of people who have few or no other options to survive, and they have used flashy marketing and cheap prices to distract people from their actions. It is up to us to shed a light on these issues and give a voice to these people, while also highlighting those few in the industry who are doing it right.
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
Women and children are clearly more vulnerable and depend on this work to survive, as they have few or no other options. It is up to us, the consumer, to demand that the brands we support provide fair wages and safe working conditions.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
I am not an expert in this subject. I would recommend that consumers change their shopping habits to shop less, shop better, make it last. The first step is to shift our culture away from consumerism. If people start INVESTING in items of better quality, they will have more emotional connection, gain more satisfaction from them, and will be more likely to use that item for an extended period of time. Consumers must also demand transparency from brands that they would like to buy from. All retailers depend on buyers, so in the end, the consumer makes the rules. Designers and fashion brands must take accountability for their production process.
What topics most interest you?
My interests range from economics to literature, music, and any form of art. The reason that Fashion is interesting to me is its ever-changing nature, and the juxtaposition of art and function.
Did you have a mentor in this work?
I try to learn something from almost every person I come in contact with, but Cherry Barthel, my mentor in design and construction definitely had a major impact in my vocation and career path.
Have you mentored others?
I have been in management and leadership roles for over a decade, so I have mentored many people along the way. It is very rewarding and a multifaceted learning experience for me as well.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
I believe that any time people can exchange information and points of view on subjects that interest them, it is highly beneficial to all those involved. It also opens the opportunity for greater creativity.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
I am more interested in questioning why, even though more women are involved in the fashion industry, it is still usually men holding the highest executive positions at many of these companies. Something doesn’t add up there.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
Aside from a creative outlet and the satisfaction of working in a field that interests me, I enjoy feeling like my efforts will serve a higher purpose. I had become disenchanted with the fashion industry when I learned about all of its negative effects on our world. I am able to continue being a part of it, as long as I feel that I am part of the solution to these problems.
Any recommended means of contacting Belvele LLC?
We can be contacted at info@belvele.com. To stay in touch, you can sign up for our newsletter, or follow us on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, and Pinterest.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
We just want to thank you for being part of this movement, bringing awareness to these issues, and helping to highlight designers and brands that are trying to make a difference.
Thank you for your time, Monica.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/11/29
Continues from part one here
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of the status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
Where to begin! As we create safe conditions for women and children, we create a better society. In North America, we may not think about it because we enforce rules against child labour and women have pretty amazing rights compared to other countries.
The truth is that the rights of women truly help a society to grow. Women’s labour force participation is crucial to the growth and innovation of any industry and economy. In the sustainable world, I believe that as we champion women’s labour (and paying them fair wages, not discriminating against them if they have children etc) and reject products made by children, we send a message to other people that there is a better way.
I don’t think that we can pressure any country to enforce or enact laws that protect their citizens, but we can reward specific businesses and organizations that are in line with what we think is right. As those businesses start to do well, others will take note and follow.
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights?
The relationship between women’s rights and children’s rights is a close one. As women start to gain equality they are in a better position to take care of their children. As a mother of two I understand this. If a woman is getting paid 70% less than a man, as is possible in other countries, then she may HAVE to ask her children to work to pay the bills. Now, if the same woman is getting paid a decent wage, she will ALWAYS put her children first: send them to school, buy them decent clothing, give them great food.
I think that women’s rights are children’s rights. I would say the 95% of mothers do the best that they can with what they have. They would never put their children in harm’s way unless they were forced to. As women gain more equality and power, their children will do better. This is not to say that we don’t need children’s rights. All I am saying is that as long as a mother has the tools she needs to care for her family (or have access to proper family planning) the better off children are.
Child labour and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labour and a few million for child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these other rights violations?
I can’t say that I have the full answer for this question, but what I would do is talk to the people around you about these issues – get them thinking about it. Personally, I would call up CBC and ask them to do a story on this issue. The media has a lot of power (rightly or wrongly). If you find an organization that is doing good work in this field share their message and consider supporting their cause through your time or financially. I would also implore people to really do their research before sending money to a charity. Check how they spend their funds and inquire about their long-term plans.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Ask questions! If you are a designer, ask your suppliers about the materials they use, ask about the labour conditions. Request to see the facilities that the products are made in. Source as local as possible. That way you know exactly who made your items.
As a consumer, I always shop local for clothing and other household items. If I do buy clothes that are made overseas I shop consignment. I do my research before I buy things. I will go online, look up the company, and then go back and buy the thing I want.
Another thing you can do as a customer is write a letter (seriously, no one gets mail anymore, so it makes it special!). I once wrote a letter to my car maker complaining about their sponsorship of the World Cup in Qatar. There are some serious human rights violations going on with the construction of facilities. I told them that my last car was a Hyundai, I just bought a new Hyundai, my sister drives a Hyundai, and they could be sure that if they don’t review their sponsorship they would be losing a customer.
I did get a response back from Hyundai Canada saying that they would take up the issue with the global office. I really appreciated the response. I know that my personal lifetime spend with the company isn’t big, but at least they know that someone, somewhere is watching. If I care and took the time to tell them, then at least 10 other people care!
At the end of the day, it really comes down to a morality thing. Do you care? If you do care, do everything in your power to change a situation or fix a problem.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/11/29
Alora was founded in 2013 in the beautiful city of Calgary, Alberta. Co-founders and mother-daughter duo of Emilyn and Jameela, began handcrafting jewelry on their kitchen table with the belief that jewelry should be beautiful, personal and meaningful.
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
My name is Jameela and I was born and raised in Calgary, Canada. My father, who passed away when I was 7, was from Ghana, and my mother is from Jamaica. I went to school in Canada and did two years of schooling in Ghana. I went to Mount Royal University and accomplished two things: obtained a Bachelor of Business Administration and met my husband! After graduating I travelled throughout West Africa where I learned a lot about my heritage and embraced the rich, and colourful culture of that region.
Upon coming home, I got a job in insurance, and not even a year later, my husband and I were expecting our first child. After having my first child I decided that I wouldn’t be going back to work. My mother and I had been making jewelry as a hobby, so the only logical course of action was to turn my hobby into a business!
I now have two children, am living in Canada, and pursuing my dream of owning an ethical and sustainable business.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
When I went to Ghana I was intrigued by the way that people reused what, to the untrained eye, looked like rubbish. I immediately fell in love with the recycled glass beads that are vibrant and meaningful. Turning waste into something beautiful resonated with me. It seemed like a renewal to me.
This translated into my jewelry design because I grew frustrated with “handmade” jewelry just being various made in China items put together in the West. There was total disregard for the people who made the items, and it undermined the true nature of handmade items. I didn’t think that buying and selling cheap items was good for the environment or the economy in the short or long term.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
That is a great question! My mother and I have taken two jewelry making classes (one in wirework and one in silversmithing) and our skills have enabled us to create various new designs. We mostly make the things that we like, but we are influenced by our professional relationships with our retail customers. They inform us about the kind of styles that their customers are looking for. We try to balance our sustainable values with current trends. At the end of the day, we balance what we like and what our customers like.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
The importance of sustainable fashion designers at this point and time is two things: 1) to help educate customers about the importance of sustainable and ethical fashion and 2) to care about people and the environment when other companies turn a blind eye.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
I am currently looking up to Stella Jean as a fashion icon. She believes that fashion can “become a vehicle for…economic, social and ethical growth and enfranchisement.” She has a global platform for change and she uses it well.
What is Alora Boutique?
Alora Boutique is a meaningful jewelry brand that gives back. We create jewelry from recycled brass and recycled glass beads that are fair trade from Ghana. In addition to creating beautiful jewelry from sustainable materials we give back to two local charities in our community via special collections. Alora creates special collections twice a year and $10 from the sale of each piece goes towards poverty reduction strategies. We also host networking events and skills workshops for disadvantaged women in our city, so that they can have opportunities that are not readily available to them normally.
What are some of its feature products?
Alora Boutique’s feature products are our recycled brass pendant necklaces specifically our feather necklaces, antler necklace and key necklaces (where $10 from the sale goes towards poverty reduction in Calgary). These are all available online at www.alora.ca.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Our customer base are women who truly care about giving back and making their community a better place. They are between 28 -45, volunteer in their community, have typically started a family and belief is that we can change the world through our lifestyle and purchase decisions.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
Worker’s rights are everyone’s rights. I think the people forget that when there are standards in labour it has a positive effect for all workers, even those that sit behind a desk. As the rights of the marginalized progress, the rights and expectations of all others is also increased.
For example, because of unions and their wage bargaining power, there is a certain expectation of wages for everyone. The simple fact that unionized workers are paid more than the average person has an effect of the labour market that creates a floor for certain professions and sectors.
In the garment industry, I think that with better worker rights we will all benefit. As consumers, we will likely get better product. When it comes to the workers, we can probably see a decrease in the need for aid and charity to certain countries since the people will be able to take care of themselves. As long as people are paid a fair and living wage in their countries they become self-sufficient. We forget that people don’t need charity, they need proper laws and systems in place to protect them from greedy and unscrupulous people in addition to systems that give them the freedom to create their own destiny.
Continued in part two here.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/11/27
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, and so on. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights?
I think women pay a vital role in changing the fashion industry and the world. According to MIC, women make up 80% of fashion purchasing power and yet account for 0% of apparel Fortune 500 CEOS. Women need more leadership roles and to have their voices heard, and other women can demand this with how they shop by supporting women owned businesses. I believe that by having more equality in positions of power it will lead to more concern for garment workers and benefit the entire supply chain.
Child labour and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labour and a few million for child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these other rights violations?
I think it’s up to us as individual to fix this until we are able to get legislation to catch up. Fortunately we live in a time where there are a lot of information and resources out there, including Trusted Clothes, Project JUST, and a variety of Fair Trade certifications. These are great places to pick up information, find sharable articles, and discover brands to support. But before worrying about others, make sure you are using your own purchasing power to make responsible choices that exclusive child labor, both supporting the brands that don’t use child labor, and avoiding the ones that do.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Everyone should remember the power of their dollars. Every time we purchase something, we are voting for or against the practices it supports. If we want to protect vulnerable populations, we have to support companies that empower them, and take our money away from companies that exploit them.
If you’re a consumer, write to the companies you like and ask them “Who Made My Clothes?” If you’re a designer, get involved in your supply chain. We each wear clothing everyday, so we each have a role in fixing the fashion industry and protecting the vulnerable.
What topics most interest you?
I’m fascinated by textiles innovations and passionate about vegan fashion, empowering women, and giving back. As a Costume Designer, I am also very interested in the stories we tell with our clothing, and specifically, how we can tell more loving stories about ourselves through what we wear (hint: ethical fashion plays a huge role in this!).
Handmade dolls by Jessie’s Place, a Fair Trade Nonprofit community center in Rwanda that educates and employs mentally and physically disabled individuals, teaching that a disability of the spirit is far worse than one of the body.
Did you have a mentor in this work?
I didn’t really know anyone in sustainable fashion when I first started working in this space, so I figured it out myself as I went. I’m sure a mentor would have definitely helped!
Have you mentored others?
I have never had a designed mentee, though I have advised many students and individuals wanting to get into sustainable fashion, and try to remain a source of information for my customers, clients, and anyone who wants to join me in changing the world.
What are the importance of mentors in the fashion world for professional, and personal, development?
Mentorship is a wonderful concept, and I think especially in the small (but growing) world of sustainable fashion, the more we can help and encourage each other, the more it will benefit all of us.
From personal observations, more women than men involve themselves in the fashion industry by a vast margin of difference at all levels. Why?
Women are the dominant employees and spenders in fashion, though men still hold the most positions of power. I think there are a lot of reasons for this. So much of a woman’s worth is placed on our physical appearance, and what we wear is a part of this. It’s deeply ingrained in us starting at birth that our identity and value is tied to how we look. Billions of dollars are spent trying to get women to buy fashion (specifically women, since they spend more on fashion then men do), and so I think a lot of women do develop deep feelings for it. We all “love” fashion.
Additionally, culturally, women are not typically encouraged to pursue STEM careers, and jobs within fashion are easily accessible to those with degrees and backgrounds in art, design, sales, or marketing.
What personal fulfilment comes from this work for you?
Ethical fashion is the most fulfilling career I’ve ever had. Getting to devote my time, money, and life to helping empower women, protecting our environment, saving animals is an absolute dream come true. Every day, I get to hear personal stories about how ethical fashion has changed someone’s life – or many lives. And it changes my life every day too.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
Bead & Reel is my full time job, though I still do personal shopping and styling for sustainable clients. I’m a writer for Vilda Magazine and the Fashion Editor the Ethical Style Journal. Through Bead & Reel, I am active in various projects including our quarterly clothing drive for vulnerable women and our annual Fair Trade Fashion Show. This week, I’m focusing on our #EthicalBlackFriday initiative.
Any recommended authors or fashionistas?
I actually recently wrote a blog post about this! I highly recommend Kate Black and Elizabeth L. Cline, and also definitely encourage everyone to out the Ethical Writer’s Coalition for great bloggers and writers in sustainable fashion.
Any recommended means of contacting Bead and Reel?
I’d love to continue the conversation! You can write me at hello@beadandreel.com or sign up for our newsletter to stay up to date on events, blog posts, and what’s new.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion based on the conversation today?
Thank you so much for the honor of getting to talk about sustainable fashion! Fashion is only as beautiful as the values behind it, and I’m so thrilled to be a small part in changing the values.
Thank you for your time, Sica.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/10/06
Tell us about yourself, some personal story and how you got involved in ethical and sustainable fashion.
Before Indigo Handloom, I was a journalist. I didn’t work in the fashion industry at all. I got an assignment to do a story about textiles in the silk weaving industry in India. Once I arrived there, I went to all these different places from the silk worm farms to the auction houses to the spinning-reeling factories to weaving-textile mills. I also went to a place where they made silk by hand.
I started asking questions about the people making the cloth. I discovered that the weavers were subsidized by the government and that this subsidy was soon going away. I wondered how they were going to feed their families and felt encouraged to help.
It was this social calling that led me to leave journalism. I thought I’d be more effective if I could help these weavers get work and live among their families rather than limit my contribution to a news story.
Although I didn’t start out with a goal to change the fashion industry, as I dug deeper I realized some changes needed to be put into place. Maybe, the old fashion way is a better way of doing things, which provides a better product that doesn’t exploit people. And that’s when I fell in love with handloom.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion to you?
The ethical and sustainable fashion movement is certainly important because the fashion world has so many unethical practices. For one, it is the second largest polluting industry after the oil industry.
People don’t really understand how it became this way. The whole industry has made a few people very rich and many others very poor because of the lack of transparency. When working with artisans, many large fashion houses won’t pay in advance – which is against fair trade policies. This creates a huge liability on small factories whose order could be cancelled over one phone call.
Since 2003 Indigo Handloom has worked with artisans in rural India to preserve traditional handloom and khadi techniques that maintain the livelihoods of many as well as bring a new appreciation for handmade textiles.
Bargaining and bidding wars are also prevalent allowing large companies to use their power to go country to country seeking the cheapest price. Completely unregulated, it is no longer ‘we’re in a business together’. There’s nobody watching this. Unless, of course, something like Rana Plaza happens.
Also, the fashion industry has access to thousands of chemicals and washes -some known carcinogens- and they are being sprayed onto our clothing. The chemical ridden water waste is then being dumped back into our riverways.
With very few watchdogs, there is simply no transparency. There are efforts. Some brands are making efforts to be transparent by checking out factories and compliances, and making sure the people that make their products are not in dangerous situations. As for an ultimate solution, I don’t know the precise answer, but I am glad that there are people taking up the cause to do things in a different way.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/11/27
Bead & Reel is your one-stop shop for ethical fashion. Founded by stylist and costume designer Sica Schmitz, Bead & Reel is the woman-owned, vegan-owned boutique committed to helping women love themselves and others through empowered and empowering fashion.
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I grew up in a very small town in Washington state and then studied art and art history in Oregon followed by fashion design in New York. After graduating, I was hired on an independent film in Seattle as the Wardrobe Assistant and just fell in love with filmmaking and the power of clothing to tell stories. There weren’t a lot of costume opportunities in Seattle so I packed up my car and drove to Hollywood, where (with a lot of hard work) I then spent the next 8 years working in Costume Design for film and television, including the indie hit Safety Not Guaranteed and ABC’s Castle. For about 2 years during that time I was living in a small RV I had renovated, traveling around the country on my way to different costume jobs. It was a very exciting life, and one I gladly gave up for Bead & Reel.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
The first costume designer I worked under was interested in sustainable fashion long before I’d heard anyone else talk about it. She was very conscientious about including sustainable brands in her projects and it definitely sparked an interest in me, though it would be many years before I got very serious about it. The real shift happened for me in 2013. I had gone vegan around the same time as the Rana Plaza collapse, and both events were making me question what I was wearing. I started trying to avoid leather, wool, and other animal products, while also learning more about what was happening to garment workers around the world. The more I learned about the many, many costs that went into what I was wearing, the more I decided I couldn’t participate in it. I’ve been working in sustainable fashion ever since.
How did your educational/professional experience inform fashion work?
Fashion has always been at the center of my life. I studied it in college and had jobs and internships in every aspect of it throughout adulthood (retail, PR, editorial, fashion design, costume design, and now the founder of a start-up). I don’t think a history in fashion is required to work in fashion, but a passion for it definitely is.
What is the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
If there aren’t better options (better brands, better stores), then customers can’t make better choices. Sustainable fashion designers and retail companies are vitally important in offering good options to those who are trying to make more ethical purchases.
Sustainable companies are the ones leading the way in textiles innovations, workers rights, animal rights, and business models that benefit the greater good.
Who is a personal hero or heroine within the ethical and sustainable fashion world for you?
I’m a huge fan of Kate Black from Magnifico, though the sustainable fashion world is so full of inspiring people that I could list dozens!
What is Bead & Reel?
Bead & Reel is a one-stop shop for ethical fashion. It is an online boutique focused on eco-friendly, cruelty-free, sweatshop-free fashion, carrying over 60 conscious brands and hundreds of styles. But more than that, Bead & Reel is a lifestyle around bettering our world through our purchases and actions, and we provide the brands and ideas for how to do that.
What are some of its feature products?
We have a broad range of products from clothing, shoes, handbags, jewelry, accessories, and gifts for homes and babies. We feature 13 searchable ethics including Vegan, Made in USA, Gives Back, and Female Founder. Obviously I love all of our products but I especially adore our organic cotton V Bralette, modal Harem Jumpsuit, and organic cotton Bootcut Jeans because of their quality, comfort, and flattering cuts.
What is your customer base – the demographics?
Our customer is an educated, caring woman who values style. She doesn’t shop with us accidentally, but instead because she is actively seeking to make better choices.
There have been large tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, which was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire (1911) and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires (2012). What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
Human rights is one of our main focuses at Bead & Reel and also a pillar of ethical fashion. I don’t think it’s a new movement – people have been fighting for garment workers rights for generations, but the massive growth in population and in our consumption of fashion means that now more than ever we must protect the lives and livelihoods of those who make our clothes.
I also view human rights as necessary for self love. If we are not honoring the bodies and lives of others through our purchases, how are we ever going to be able to honor our own body and life? So if you want more confidence, higher self esteem, and to feel more love, start with what you buy. By showing it to others, we are able to show it to ourselves.
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What is the importance of te status of women’s and children’s rights in the ethical and sustainable fashion world too?
Women make up over 80% of global garment workers, and study after study has shown that when women are treated and paid well, it empowers entire communities. The impacts of basic worker rights are far-reaching and necessary for a more peaceful, more just world.
Similarly, when children – especially girls – are in school (instead of working) it lowers rates of child marriage, leads to fewer pregnancies and less complications, and correlates to lower adolescent diseases and mortality.
If we want to uplift communities and end poverty, we must start by uplifting women and children.
Continued on part two here.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/11/21
What have been honest mistakes in the foundation and development of Purple Impression?
I would say too much flexibility and lack of future planning in the running of the business. The plan with Purple Impression initially was to connect with an NGO to get our designs produced, but, when we travelled, we found ourselves in the heart of the area known for hand embroidery. It didn’t make sense to go through an NGO in a different city so we decided to set up our own production. It was an “in the moment” decision. We had to face many challenges of running a production facility in a place we have not spent much time in before. People had a different way of working and different work ethics – which can be frustrating, but I guess with time you learn and are more prepared as you move on.
What lessons can you impart to new business owners from them?
It is good to be flexible, but flexibility without a plan can be stressful. Whatever decision you make in your business make sure to have your short and long term goals figured out and try to chart all the scenarios that you might run into to get to that goal and decide ahead of time what decision you will lean towards if you were to run into that situation.
What have been the greatest emotional struggles for you?
The greatest struggle I’d say has been while choosing the artisans. We try to reach out to artisans that are skilled and deserving, but sometimes we are faced with the challenge of choosing between the women’s skills or their need for work. This was a struggle initially, but we decided to create a program where lower skilled women could still get employed. But worked on smaller, less detailed designs that perhaps don’t need the mastery that some of the other designs might require. This gives them the ability to build up their skills, being able to take on other work as time goes by.
With respect to fair trade practices, what is the importance of them to the garment industry workers, especially those in some of the poorer areas of the world?
I believe fair trade is the key to lift many workers out of poverty. Most often, workers in developing countries live under poverty not because they do not work, or are unskilled, but due to lack of a living wage. At exploited wages, a worker is barely able to put food on the table for his family and pay rent, but a fair wage can mean education for their children and health care.
What can effectively attenuate the negative effects of pollution, climate change, and human rights abuses?
The move toward a more ethical production and sustainability is a step forward in the right direction but there is still work to be done. We have to educate the consumers more about the effects of fast fashion and give practical solutions to how a shift in their consumer habit can have a positive impact on the people and the planet.
What can reduce the rate of modern slavery and improve the status of women?
A fair living wage is step one in reducing modern day slaves and this can only be done by educated consumers who put pressure on bigger companies across all industries holding them accountable for their operations. As for the women, we can definitely do more by supporting causes and businesses that work towards women’s development and girls’ education. We should definitely support the artisan sector which is the second largest employer of women after agriculture. Supporting these causes means more education and financial independence for women which enable them to empower themselves and stand up for their rights.
How can men become more involved on-the-ground in the implementation of international women’s rights?
Men can be more involved by supporting and being present at causes that are working towards the betterment of women worldwide. They can also help spread awareness about issues that affect women’s rights, especially of those in developing countries.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
I really think that I have found my calling in this work. I have always been very passionate about women’s rights. As a child, I would hear some of the women share their stories about their difficulties of living under poverty and a patriarchal society during my summer visits to Pakistan and I could only feel helpless and listen, but it’s really rewarding and fulfilling now to be able to do something for them and know that the work you are doing is making some impact in their lives and that slowly, but surely we are able to change things for them.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
With another baby on the way, my time right now is divided between Purple Impression and family. To raise the next generation that has compassion and love for all is not at this time and so just struggling between being a mom and entrepreneur quiet honestly as this time.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion?
If you are a consumer reading this then know that your dollar has immense power to make an impact. With every dollar we spend, we are supporting and promoting at least five different values and these are the values of the company you choose to spend your money on. So be mindful and dig deeper into the products you consume.
Thank you for your time, Drakshan.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/11/21
How can fashionistas, and fashionistos, become more informed on the rights of garment workers, the violations of those rights, and the general sources of their clothes?
I think a good place to begin is by doing some research about how your clothes are made. A platform such as yours is an amazing resource for this. If people want to get more specific information about a brand, then a good starting point is reading the ethos of a company and what they stand for. Know how transparent they are about their production and how much information do they share about their garments.
Soft and lightweight tunic made with cotton khadi fabric that is completely natural and un-dyed with embroidery and mirror work.
Many factors come into the fold for consideration within this movement. It is international, moderate in size, and growing. Tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire in 1911 and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires in 2012. This implies human rights, worker rights, and, in many instances, women’s and children’s rights. How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
I truly believe that the longer a supply chain gets, the more difficult it becomes to have a good control over the rights of the workers. As designers, we should always look for ways to keep the supply chain as small as we can. Visit the factories and meet the makers of your designs. Ask questions about worker rights and how much they are getting paid, and then do some research about the actual cost of living for workers in that country yourself. We cannot simply rely on the numbers reported by local governments because most often those do not give a true picture of how much it costs for a worker to sustain a livelihood for a family.
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What about the status of women’s and children’s rights as well?
It is true that women and children are often the most exploited and sadly most often it is those women and children who are going through some extreme hardships in life who have no choice and are forced to give in to the abuse. The recent news about Syrian refugee children being used by Turkish garment factories is an example of this. There needs to be more accountability from these factories, especially the smaller second tier ones – where the abuse most often goes unreported.
The almond tribal scarf is lightweight and made from Cotton Khadi fabric known to keep you cool in the summer and warm in winters.
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, to acquire an education, and to be self-sufficient. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights, which have existed for a long time, in this domain of the working world? Child labour and slavery are problems – major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labour and a few million for child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these other rights violations?
First of all, we have to put more pressure on the bigger brands who have the production quantity to bring a change in this industry. These companies have the power to reach out and influence local governments to improve worker conditions. Additionally, question every purchase you make. Educate yourself on where what you are buying was made, and by whom. What are the ethos of the company you are choosing to buy from? As consumers, we can do this by our dollar and by choosing to support fair trade companies across all industries. Share your knowledge with friends and family, because what I have found out in my own experience is that it’s not that people don’t care about the rights of others, but they don’t know about its negative impact.
Asma button down shirt is made with breathable cotton Khadi and designed with all day comfort in mind.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
It is very important to be well aware of the culture of the country where you are operating. Being well acquainted with the culture gives us a lot of information and ability to pick up on things and people who can be exploited and are vulnerable. We, for example, operate in the remote villages of Pakistan where men in the same field of work feel that women don’t deserve to be paid as much as them because they work out of their homes and don’t have much responsibility. Being aware of this, we not only make sure that the women are paid equivalent as their male peers, but also educate and empower them to value themselves and their work.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/11/21
Purple Impression is a Fair trade brand that aims to bring people together through art and fashion. They work with women artisans in Pakistan who hand embroider the designs. Their goal is to provide them with employment, fair pay and direct access to broader market giving them an opportunity to educate their children and become financially independent.
Young girls learning how to embroider and sew their own clothes at an artisan’s home
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I like to introduce myself as a mom and a global citizen who is a hybrid of many cultures. I was born in Pakistan, and grew up in Dubai and the United States. I studied Finance and Economics from Kent State University, Ohio and started my career in banking, and then moved to Marketing Strategist role for an interior design firm in California. After having children, I took a break from work while keeping myself involved in philanthropic work that benefited women and children.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I believe that the concept of conscious consumerism was something that was brewing inside of me since childhood. Having lived in different countries around the world, I have witnessed firsthand the loss of traditional crafts, exploitation of workers and the effects of fast fashion on the factory workers and the planet. Rana Plaza was a wake up call that shook me to the core. I knew I had to take action and do something. I channeled my anger into doing something about women’s development. This lead me to my parents’ hometown in Pakistan that has a rich culture of hand embroidery done by women, who despite an amazing talent find it hard to make ends meet often due to exploitation from local middlemen.
Asma, the maker of the Asma boyfriend shirt. The mission is always to connect you with the makers of your clothes so there’s always a name and a face with your pieces connecting you with it.
What is the importance of the idea of ethical and sustainable fashion to you?
My background in economics has turned me into an activist for conscious consumption and socially responsible businesses. I am a big fan of Muhammad Yunus and would like to quote one of his sayings:
In my experience, poor people are the world’s greatest entrepreneurs. Every day, they must innovate in order to survive. They remain poor because they do not have the opportunities to turn their creativity into sustainable income.
The Fashion industry employs 57.8 million people globally. Imagine the impact on these lives if every garment worker was paid ethically for their work. This is why ethical and sustainable fashion are extremely important and there is a need to push for more education and transparency in this industry.
What about ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
It is so wonderful to see the amount of ethical companies growing. Consumers are asking for variety and it’s nice to be able to provide people with alternatives that cater to their taste while benefiting the makers. So I am really excited to see this industry grow.
What is Purple Impression?
Purple Impression is a socially responsible high fashion brand that employs women artisans in Pakistan who hand embroider our designs.
What are some of its feature products?
Our hand embroidered scarves definitely stand out anywhere because of their craftsmanship and vibrant colors. They make the perfect accessory because the rich embroidery of the scarf really draws people, which makes it a statement piece. Additionally, we just launched our Nomad Tee with the intention to bring people together through art and fashion. It is a collaboration of three different artists. A San Francisco based designer Elaine Hamblin, Iranian Calligrapher Arash Shirinbab, and our artisans work has been fused into the tee to spread the message of Peace, Love and Unity.
What makes it unique?
Everything we design and create always has a meaning and a purpose. By fusing the traditional hand embroidery from one of the oldest cities in the world (Multan, Pakistan), our designers in San Francisco are able to create exclusive, hand crafted pieces while preserving this dying art. Each garment comes hand signed by its maker, often showing the construction through videos. We want our customers to build a sense of connection with their garment, which adds meaning to their wardrobe.
Also, in line with our commitment to sustainability we try and work with natural, recycled fabric, create minimal to zero waste by using hand cutting techniques that utilize selvage edge within the design and incorporate creative hand embroidery techniques that make use of leftover fabrics.
Who tend to be the customer base?
We have a global customer base. Women who are well traveled. That care about the rights of other women and want to support the global artisan sector.
What advice would be of use to new business owners?
For new business owners, you should definitely have a component of education in your business strategy because even though the ethical fashion movement is growing there is still a need to educate consumers about why it matters and the impact sustainable fashion has on its makers and the planet.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/11/17
MY SISTER’s mission is to prevent sex trafficking, educate communities, empower the population, provide after-care for survivors and offer growth opportunities to at-risk women through the sales of our statement-making, ethically-sourced apparel and accessories.
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I attended university in MN for advertising and marketing. There, I had a work study job where my boss started teaching me graphic design skills. It was a great way to add that skill to my more strategic studies in classes. After graduating, I spent quite a few years in the real estate industry at national corporations doing a mix of graphic design and managing the marketing efforts, then switched over to the spa industry to get some different experience.
On top of that, I started doing photography and had a small photography business where I met a ton of great people and got to exert all of that extra creative energy. I was friends with my now business partner, Wayne. He told me about a new business that he was working on and I offered to provide some marketing ideas. It quickly turned into me joining the team to launch MY SISTER. Having the opportunity to combine my design, photography and marketing skills in the fashion world with an empowering message, for a good cause, with MY SISTER, was an ideal fit and an opportunity I couldn’t pass up.
Personally, I grew up in a smaller town in central WI. I knew from early on I needed to be somewhere bigger and more exciting, eventually leading me to Minneapolis. My boyfriend and I rent a beautiful duplex and have a little loving, but super hyper, Chihuahua named Ruthie. You can hear her barking all over town (she’s very social) and she looks like a mini cow with black and white spots. (Maybe it’s my inner WI farm girl that subconsciously chose a dog that resembles a cow.;)
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I’ve always been concerned for the environment but, from the beginning, it was an initiative focused on by Wayne, the co-founder of MY SISTER, as he has a background in the ethical and sustainable food industry. Once I learned more about taking those values and applying them to fashion, I have become more and more invested. Plus, I believe we won’t have an earth to fight against trafficking in if we don’t take care of our resources (human and otherwise) and planet in a sustainable manner so these initiatives are as important as ever.
What is the importance of the idea of ethical and sustainable fashion to you?
Sex trafficking goes hand-in-hand with the ethical treatment of those working in the fashion/garment industry, so it’s a #1 priority for me.
What about ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
I so look up to and admire those who have paved the way, even when it wasn’t as popular to do so. These are truly the change-makers.
What is MY SISTER?
MY SISTER is an apparel retailer fighting against sex trafficking. Through the sale of ethically sourced clothing and accessories, we’re able to invest in an exploitation-free world. On a regular basis, we do things like: fund and partner with non-profits, empower and employ survivors, and educate and connect with communities.
What are some of its feature products?
Statement-making tees and sweatshirts – Make Herstory, Equality, Feminist, You’re Not The Boss Of Me, Liberation, We are all human together, etc.
Many factors come into the fold for consideration within this movement. It is international, moderate in size, and growing. Tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire in 1911 and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires in 2012. This implies human rights, worker rights, and, in many instances, women’s and children’s rights. What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
Sex trafficking is directly linked to worker rights in the industry. If we want to create a better world, this is a great place to make a huge impact with it being such a monumental industry. Every ethical fashion purchase can make a difference. We should all be asking ourselves if getting that cheap accessory or garment is worth a human being’s health and wellbeing?
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What about the status of women’s and children’s rights as well?
This is my mission – to create opportunities for these girls and women. These two populations (as well as many others) have been exploited in too many ways for too many years and our world is suffering due to it.
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, to acquire an education, and to be self-sufficient. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights, which have existed for a long time, in this domain of the working world?
More women in the working world equals more thoughtful, impactful business and money being reinvested back into their families, in turn, providing more education and a better future for their children. More opportunity for children to become educated in schools as opposed to working in garment factories equals the world’s future change-makers being given the chance to do so.
Child labour and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labour and a few million for child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these other rights violations?
There are a ton of great documentaries and books on these issues. Educating yourself and taking a moment to spread that bit of education on to others through conversation and social media to raise awareness can all really help. In addition to that, voting with your dollars and knowing what you’re purchasing and who’s being exploited in the process can make the biggest impact.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Making thoughtful purchases and working with or donating to organizations that are in those countries taking action and working on solutions.
What topics most interest you?
Gender equality
Homelessness
Animal rights (I’m a long-time vegetarian.)
Creativity
Music
Yoga
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
I know that with everything I do for the company, it is making positive change for someone. I also just love it that we are an outlet for people – a way to speak up and take action against some of the things that need addressing in our world. Plus, being in a place where I can help offer vulnerable women opportunities is the best feeling no matter what else is going on.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
MY SISTER is pretty all-consuming right now as we are focused on growth and employing more survivors as we move along into 2017. In my spare time, I like to get outside or create crafty and artsy things.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion?
In a world where things can often feel overwhelming and uncontrollable, we each have the opportunity to take steps in the right direction. It doesn’t have to be all at once. Even giving 5 dollars or 5 minutes of your time to a person who needs it, can make a difference. Take action.
Thank you for your time, Mandy.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/11/15
Continued from part one here.
Many factors come into the fold for consideration within this movement. It is international, moderate in size, and growing. Tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire in 1911 and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires in 2012. This implies human rights, worker rights, and, in many instances, women’s and children’s rights. What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
The problem that dictates this is the desire of people wanting to purchase cheap things and always wanting to have newness that has created this issue. The people that get squeezed out are the garment workers in 3rd world countries and by continuing to produce in this fast fashion type of manner; consumers are potentially contributing to human slavery without having the knowledge. They are contributing to the environmentally harmful and physical outcomes by purchasing these items.
There is a cycle that happens and by understanding this process you are able to create a solution. We have viewed this problem from the outside and have worked backwards. We start with paying our workers a fair living wage, we have a clean healthy environment for them to work in, we then purchase fabrics that would either be thrown away or are sustainable or ecofriendly, and from this we are able to create quality garments that will last more than ex 4-8 washes.
What fast fashion has created, is setting such a low price point that everyone feels the need to sell at and what we needed to figure out is how to meet that price point but also making it ethical. The solution was to leverage technology, educating our workers and streamlining manufacturing and sell direct to consumer. By cutting out inventory and all the middlemen that take a percentage before it gets to the end user, we are able to sell as a ethical alternative to fashion at a wholesale price point but also keeping the products at a quality price.
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What about the status of women’s and children’s rights as well? Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, to acquire an education, and to be self-sufficient. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights, which have existed for a long time, in this domain of the working world? Child labour and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labour and a few million for child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these other rights violations?
The previous 3 questions we feel are relatable and can be tied together as a whole. It is initially a humanitarian problem and the only way to solve it is by educating the end consumer and having them choose to spend their dollars on brands that are making a difference. Prior to YSTR, there haven’t been any brands that are creating a sustainable line with the contemporary design at the price point we are offering at.
This problem only exists with the lack of educating the public of the manufacturing process and having no alternative options. We as a society need to educate ourselves and think about the purchases we make and demand a change.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
Fast fashion brands have created a norm and a foundation of what is being sold and at an unbeatable price point. At the end of the day, it is brands like us, even thought we are small, we need to get the visibility and have people educated and address the change. The investments in our clothes go beyond just the garment lasting a long time but it is supporting every humanitarian aspect as well.
By stating the facts and giving the consumers an alternative option, they are able to slowly implement these changes into their daily lifestyle choices. Once brands start seeing a movement with sustainability, more companies will follow. We are the trailblazers in starting something new.
What topics most interest you?
Sustainability, the environment, technology, fashion, design, architecture
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
Being the change and being able to create and inspire people through our clothes and offering them a better alternative that is ethical
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
Only this, because this is what we believe in.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion?
Sometimes it takes the power of one to make a difference to blaze a trail for others to see that there is opportunity to create change. The earth that we have is spaceship earth, the more we mind burn and pollute, there will be a point we wont have something that is beautiful and pristine, it is now that we need to do something about cleaning up the environment.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/11/15
YSTR was founded to provide a better alternative to modern shopping.
Garrett Gerson, Co founder and CEO of YSTR first got into business at a young agae from selling cars and MC-ing at events, to running family-owned restaurants and bars across LA county. Garrett pretty much did it all growing up in his driven, family-oriented household. Because of this, his interests weren’t necessarily restricted by a particular medium or industry; instead, Garrett thrived on disruptive innovations and businesses that thought outside the box.
After working for several independent labels post-college, Garrett paired his knack for business management with an appreciation for the dynamic, rapidly-evolving nature of the fashion industry by launching his own line in 2009. After seven years of success, Garrett and his business partner April decided that it was time to disrupt their own careers. The two of them took the steps to exit the wholesale business and form a new e-commerce brand, YSTR, in hopes to change the way fashion is created and delivered in this modern era.
April Liang, Co Founder and COO is a California native who grew up in Malibu. April fell into the fashion industry at age 20 as a production assistant of a local contemporary line. In 5 short years, April rose from assistant to a full-fledged partner and director of development and production.
During this time, April’s hands-on approach to every aspect of the company expanded her knowledge of the true ins and outs of fashion manufacturing and began to question the traditional, daresay outdated, way things were done in the wholesale business. In 2016, April and her business partner Garrett decided to start a new chapter in their lives and launch YSTR, a fashion e-commerce brand that aims to proactively adapt to the changing industry landscape by creating beautiful clothes whilst minimizing fashion waste. April continues to do what she does best and runs YSTR’s production and overall operations.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
We had a contemporary wholesale business than we ran for 7 years and followed the basic manufacturing process. The issues that came with this, is the overproduction that you would need to produce each season to hit minimums, allocate for exchanges, returns and damages. After producing, there is a limited time given to sell all this excess before markdowns, giveaways had to happen.
Taking our knowledge with everything we learned we decided to re structure the business. Realizing that if we were not willing to pay $400 for something, most people would not either but also taking into consideration the environmental impact that fast fashion has and on carrying any type of inventory.
We decided to leverage technology and social platforms to create a more sustainable ecommerce direct to consumer marketplace. We create your basic essential silhouettes with a contemporary twist and not selling by traditional seasons. What fast fashion has created as the new norm with 52 seasons a year, we have gone back and shifted to what we believe fashion should be and release small drops with clothes that can be worn yearly and become your closet essentials. We are not carrying an inventory of product, we minimize waste and it allows us to do single item orders.
People are starting to be aware of the affect this industry is having on the environment and making more conscious choices on what and why they purchase.
What is the importance of the idea of ethical and sustainable fashion to you?
The fashion industry has become a gluttonous, oversaturated industry where companies are overproducing garments in order to bring down costs (and therefore prices) on products that are disposable and will inevitably end up in landfills, polluting our earth. I don’t think we’re necessarily disrupting the industry, we just want to grow a company that celebrates what fashion used to be and what fashion SHOULD be: thoughtfully-crafted clothes that are responsibly made.
We don’t want to make clothes just to satiate our desire to design or turn a profit – we want to approach the fashion industry in a way that will allow our daughters, sons, nephews, and so on to have a beautiful world to live in in the future. Our innovation doesn’t come from looking at ourselves as a company that only cares about the bottom line – it comes from looking at ourselves as part of a community.
I think we’re all just really proud to be a part of this shift towards sustainable fashion, and be able to tie our anti-waste method of manufacturing with really great, high-quality clothes that are sold at approachable price points. It’s up to innovative companies and individuals to disrupt the industry’s current norms, and we want to do what we can to support that.
What about ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
People are starting to open their eyes to what’s really happening in the industry and its films like The True Cost or brands like Tom’s that are educating people and approaching business and creation as an extension of humanity – not just a way to capitalize on others. We believe that a good portion of consumers have gotten over the “razzle dazzle” of value-based trend shopping and are really starting to read between the lines – or threads – of the clothes they’re purchasing and becoming more aware of their impacts.
But knowledge is just the first step – a consumer needs to have options. By having ethical and sustainable fashion designers jump on board, and giving individuals an alternative that makes sense for their lifestyle/budget etc. that’s when they can actually make the choice to change their habits and then start sharing their knowledge with others
What is YSTR Clothing?
YSTR was founded to provide a better alternative to modern fashion shopping. We create beautifully crafted clothing, using sustainable cut to order technologies to combat the industry’s alarming level of fashion waste.
What are some of its feature products?
YSTR carries out your basic essentials and daily needs that can be worn throughout the year. From our popular full look pieces the Anais apron dress and Hardy jumpsuit, to your classic oversized petal back Chloe blouse and your must have bodysuits and basics, these items are all closet essentials that can be dressed up for a night into town or worn out on a daily.
Continued in part two here.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/11/14
Continued from part 1 here
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What about the status of women’s and children’s rights as well?
Women, children, and the less abled are the most vulnerable people in society, and this exposes them to the greatest level of abuse and unfair treatment.
There is no excuse for this and it is one of the greatest reasons of shame for humanity.
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, to acquire an education, and to be self-sufficient. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights, which have existed for a long time, in this domain of the working world?
Another very complex problem. We speak daily with women who are barely teenagers and have been pulled out of school to support the family and feel like they have no choice. Their families feel like they have no choice, and society feels like there is no choice. This perpetuates the cycle. For me, education is the way out this dark maze – education allows for choice and opportunities and this is what we try to offer with our training programmes.
Child labour and slavery are problems, major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labour and a few million for child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these other rights violations?
Yes, it is a great stain on humanity. It will take a great collective effort to change and more than that a recognition that this is everyone’s problem, not just some remote country somewhere far away.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
The fashion industry is so complex and the vertical supply chain touches so many points, people, and places. It is very, very hard to get your head around it all. When I started, I wanted to do it all: follow from grower to sewer to seller to wearer…but in reality the world is a complex place and the global trade corridors and supply chains mean this is very hard to achieve.
Mayamiko entrepreneurship training delivered through facebook and other accessible online platforms
So, personally, while I keep my eye on the end goal and keep lobbying and influencing for a holistic change on various aspects, I have to work within the current situation. Otherwise, I could be waiting a lifetime! So, my choice has been to influence and improve where I can, and be very honest about it all.
By setting up a social enterprise in Malawi, we ensure our team are well paid and protected. We contribute to the tax system. We are committed to buying local. It is tough because it means we have limited options available in terms of fabrics and trimmings, but more importantly it means that at every step of our garment making process the local community benefits. For example, I have been working since day one with a group of lady traders to source all our fabric.
Also, our zero waste policy is very important to me. I can see in our small factory how much cutting room waste is produced, and with some creativity all of that can be turned into beautiful products for someone to love and cherish. Same with items that may have not sold as well as we had hoped. Instead of flooding the local secondhand market, we unpick and transform.
I have been recently talking to some larger factories in other places in the world about this concept. For example, the recycling and up cycling branded factory rejects or excess at factory level. I think there could be some interesting solutions to be explored, with benefits to the environment and also to the labour practices applied.
In my small experience at Mayamiko, we start from the main thing – the people who make the garments – how much do we need to pay them fairly so they can have a dignified and empowered life. Then we work it up from there. And you strike a balance between what buyers are prepared to pay. In the end, customers love the story about our garments, but first and foremost they have to love the products to make the decision to buy. You don’t want to pull on the heart’s strings – those customers are not likely to be happy and come back for more unless they love what they have bought. And the way the products are made, their story is important, but the key thing is to make products that people love to wear. Sustainability is the end game, and that’s where my eyes are fixed on.
What topics most interest you?
I have a pretty varied range of interests: organic lifestyle, international development, NLP, yoga, the digital word, travelling and any new cool things my nieces and nephews introduce me to!
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
It’s the reason I get up in the morning!
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
I am working with some large garment manufacturers to help them think about ways in which they can introduce new sustainable practices in their operations, and also how to communicate their sustainability efforts better and I am working with some small artisan groups on exciting new products. I am focusing on solar and renewable energy. And I am doing lots of yoga, including aerial and acro, which I love.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion?
You asked me some very difficult questions! I hope I have answered them adequately.
Thank you for your time, Paola.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/11/14
Mayamiko Trust was established in 2008 by Paola Masperi. After extensive travel in Africa, Paola decided to help some of the most disadvantaged people in Malawi by supporting their creative talents and turning them into sustainable activities.
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I was born and raised in Milan, Italy. My parents have always been very active in the community, so I think that’s where the passion for social justice and activism comes from.
My Granny on my Mum’s side was an excellent seamstress and taught me to sew dresses for my dolls from a young age, while reading classics like To Kill a Mocking Bird and Four Little Women to me. I was taught how to count use coins. My Granddad on my Dad’s side was a very established and very creative tailor.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I had always been interested in human rights and sustainable development and always had a passion for fashion: the combination resulted in an awareness of fashion’s impact on people and the environment.
What is the importance of the idea of ethical and sustainable fashion to you?
Fashion is intrinsic to our way of living and our nature – clothing is one of our basic human needs and has carried so much meaning in society across history, geographies etc.
So it is only natural that if we care for people and our world, and want to work towards a more sustainable existence, we have to look at the clothing industry as one of the key levers for change. The challenge is that fashion is complex, its supply chain is so complex and diverse, that it is very hard to define clear cut parameters and objectives.
What about ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
I think there is a healthy level of debate and we are seeing some real change happening in various pockets of the market, with pioneering initiatives by manufacturers, brands and innovators, and with real civil society pushes for change by consumers.
But I think we need more clarity for manufacturers, brands, and consumers to make sure we all have a common understanding of what the words we use in the ethical and sustainable fashion debate really mean, and that sustainability is not confused with greenwashing or just a different PR angle.
What is Mayamiko?
I started Mayamiko in 2008 as a charitable project with the long term view of turning it into a sustainable business for everyone involved, but very aware that it required a charitable mind set to get going: I had been doing work in Malawi since 2005 (and in other developing countries) and I could see so much potential that could be unlocked by providing education and skills, a way out of poverty that was sustainable and not dependent on aid.
Two of mayamiko ladies, Jane and Everyn, busy writing down their vision for the future to then discuss it with the rest of the group and find ways of making it a reality.
Many studies have shown that women’s education has a ripple effect not only on themselves and their family, but also on the communities they live in. Couple that with an interest in fashion, the availability of wonderful fabrics, and the many artisanal techniques that seemed to be slowly getting lost, that’s how the idea came about!
At that point, I had been working with Malawi since 2005 on various programmes and the country was pretty close to my heart because of its incredible beauty, warmth, and potential, but of all the countries I had been to it seemed to need the most of this holistic approach. That made it in a way the one where I felt I wanted to start from.
At the very heart of it, there is a sole desire to help change people’s lives by giving them choices. Choices come in the form of education, skills training, access to finance, and many other options that we often take for granted.
Tailoring and sewing have always been a pretty widespread skill, but often at a very basic level, and many of the other components required for people to be empowered to achieve change were missing: broader education, more in depth technical training, entrepreneurship skills, self-belief etc. And it was also about taking the wonderfully creative skills of many artisans and turning them into a way of making a sustainable living.
What are some of its feature products?
Every year, we launch a collection of contemporary womenswear. So, we are a ‘season free’ brand. This means we don’t want to engage with the pressure of producing a new collection every season, month, or even week.
I believe we can offer desirable collections consisting of some key directional pieces and some more evergreen pieces, and by playing with different prints and fabrics to stay relevant. Locally sourced African prints or artisanal locally-dyed textiles are at the core of our collections.
We have a commitment to source everything, and wherever possible, within a 20km radius from our workshop to maximize the positive impact on our local community.
Alongside our main collection, and because of our Zero Waste commitment, we bring out ‘zero waste’ pieces, which make use of any cutting room waste in a clever and creative way. For example, our Namaste sets, our hair accessories, and some of our clutches are part of this collection.
Every couple of years, or when the opportunity arises, I launch an upcycled collection, making use of end-of-roll, end-of-life textiles from factories, which would otherwise be destined to the landfill – this is how our Rebirth collection came about and I finished developing a new capsule collection using end-of-life Italian silks.
Many factors come into the fold for consideration within this movement. It is international, moderate in size, and growing. Tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire in 1911 and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires in 2012. This implies human rights, worker rights, and, in many instances, women’s and children’s rights. What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
The thing about human rights is that they apply to all humans, universally and indiscriminately. And what we have here is a world in which these rights apply to some and not to others. Those others are the most vulnerable in society, i.e. women, children, and less abled people.
Clearly, this is a massively complex and diversified problem and what we are seeing now is more exposure, leading to greater awareness. With social media and the internet, there is really nowhere to hide.
What’s becoming more apparent is that there is no ‘black and white’, no ‘my fault, your fault’. We are all part of the system and we all play a role in the issues, and we all must be part of the solutions: legislators, governments, international bodies, brands, manufacturers, and consumers.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/11/11
Continued from Part 1
Women and children are the majority of the exploited and violated work forces. What about the status of women’s and children’s rights as well?
Women and children tend to be most exploited in the industry because they are more exploited by society in general, which forces them to often take the low wage jobs that men who have been given more wealth, education, and power in society, won’t take. 80% of garment factory workers around the world are women.
Children are the most vulnerable population. Women tend to have less status than men in societies including the right to decent working conditions, decent pay, to vote, to acquire an education, and to be self-sufficient. What is the relationship between the need to implement women’s rights and children’s rights, which have existed for a long time, in this domain of the working world? Child labour and slavery are problems – major ones. These include children throughout the world. Tens of millions of children in the case of child labour and a few million for child slavery. How can individuals get the word out about these other rights violations?
This is a tricky issue because many of the slavery issues occur early on in the supply chain, in cotton farming, milling, and spinning. Half of US fashion brands have no traceability of their supply chains at all, and most that do have any traceability can only trace to cut make and trim (CMT), meaning they have no idea where their cotton was grown or spun or made into fabric or dyed. There are non-disclosure agreements all along to supply chain to supposedly protect trade secrets, but it’s a convenient way for the brands to ultimately shirk responsibility for slavery (and other issues) in their supply chains. Ultimately there are a lot of old world practices like this that I think will become un-tenable in today’s global economy, which is increasingly more interested in transparency, connection, and sharing. I hope that this (and whistle blowers) will help us to see brands being pressured to change what’s going on in their supply chains – which will help consumers decide which brands they should and shouldn’t support.
How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
We have to tackle these issues from all angles, and everyone has a role to play. There is more information available to us about brands and with a little research the average person can get a better idea of how to really shop their values. Ultimately, brands do have to listen to consumers so changing your buying practices is really important. From within the industry, there will be change when there is a critical mass of CEOs, designers, accountants, and everyone else who does not stand for the current practices. In large companies, there is often a huge disconnect between design and manufacturing that keeps designers or CSR teams from making change, but it does not need to be that way if core members of these companies (and their shareholders) were to change their beliefs as well.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
The most fulfilling part of my work is working directly with the women on our team and making products with them. I love getting involved in the big stuff as well as the little stuff, and seeing the lives of the people we work with changing and growing. The people I work with are a joy to be around and they inspire me every day. That is the most meaningful thing to me.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/11/11
Tonlé, Cambodias eco and sustainable fashion brand are committed to zero-waste production. They are currently the largest ethical apparel brand in the country, offering fair wages and a secure working environment since 2013.
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I grew up in the Boston area of the Northeast US, and from a young age I was interested in social justice and activism, mostly inspired by my parents. I also always considered myself and artist and looked for a way to merge the two passions. I studied at the Maryland Institute college of Art, where I became involved in textiles and received a BFA in Fiber.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I made clothes from a young age (I made my first Halloween costume in 3rd grade out of second hand clothing, and by high school I was making clothing and bags and selling them to my peers. But I always knew there were problems in the fashion industry, and my conscience prevented me from pursuing study or a career in that field. In my last year of college, I had the opportunity to visit Cambodia with a family friend who had interested in starting a textile business there – and that was the first time that I came into contact with artisan groups who were trying to practice fair trade principals in making textiles and other handicrafts. This inspired me to realize that the fashion industry is not going to change simply by criticism, but needs change from within and that was the first time that I saw the possibility of participating in that.
What is the importance of the idea of ethical and sustainable fashion to you?
The fashion industry is one of the world’s largest industries, and also happens to be one of the greatest contributors to pollution, climate change, human rights abuses, modern slavery, suppression of women’s rights, and the list goes on. Fashion also is not going away any time soon, so we need to find a way to change it for the future of our planet and our people.
What about ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
Right now ethical fashion is defined in a number of different ways and I do think there is a need for greater definition and standardization of what those words mean. But I do think it is admirable and important that there are so many new designers coming up that are trying to consider doing things differently, and even larger companies that are changing to incorporate greater transparency into their supply chains.
The beautiful and talented Siphen making fabric for the new collection with fabric scraps and naturally dyed cotton
What is Tonlé?
Tonlé is a zero-waste, fair fashion company. We design, make and produce contemporary women’s fashion and accessories in our workshop in Cambodia.
What are some of its feature products?
Tonlé is most known for its signature t shirts and easy to wear t-shirt dresses, which are versatile and well loved. Some of our newest ranges include products that are handwoven from tiny scraps of remnant fabric into unique new textiles. These products are higher-end price wise, but have been picked up by many designer boutiques that appreciate the craftsmanship and style of the products.
The Tonlé team in Cambodia has grown several fresh faces on our production and management teams, moving into a new workshop, developing new collections, and exploring new sales channels
Many factors come into the fold for consideration within this movement. It is international, moderate in size, and growing. Tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire in 1911 and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires in 2012. This implies human rights, worker rights, and, in many instances, women’s and children’s rights. What are the importance of human rights and worker rights in this new movement, and to the garment industry?
Many people forget that the United states was what we would now consider a “developing country” in the 1800s and early 1900s. Child-labor and abhorrent factory conditions were commonplace – health and safety standards were non-existent. It is only because of the hard work of activists, women’s rights advocates, and unions that we have the laws that now protect workers in American from those conditions that are still common place abroad. And while the US still has a long way to go, it’s easy to forget when these jobs are shipped overseas that the freedoms we enjoy in the US took the hard work and preference of many to achieve. It’s very important to empower workers abroad to fight for their own rights as well, so that they too can achieve the same conditions. With the globalization of the industry this is much more complicated nowadays, when it is so easy for a company to move their manufacturing elsewhere when conditions become unfavorable for them or wages are too “high”. That’s why we need a multi-pronged approach where consumers, brands, factories, and governments all need to take action to be a part of the change in the industry.
Continued on Part two here.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/11/07
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
Wallis Evera creates ethical, eco-friendly and locally made clothes that work – for you, for our communities and for the planet – because we believe that dressing well means more than just looking good.
I’m a West Coast girl. I lived in small towns in northern BC and the Yukon when I was very young, then we settled in Victoria in time for middle school and I stayed there until university. I studied Psychology at UVIC, took a couple years off to travel and live in Berlin, Germany, and then returned to Canada to study Public Administration at Carleton University in Ottawa. As soon as I was done, I moved back to Vancouver and have been here ever since.
Prior to starting Wallis Evera, my career was primarily in management consulting. I worked as an analyst and project manager in industries ranging from manufacturing and distribution, to high tech, healthcare and government. When I had children, I stopped working for a few years so that I could be with them. When it was time to re-enter the workforce, I realized I wasn’t going to be happy plugging back into the regular 9 to 5 office routine. I wanted to start my own business and create a life that was a direct reflection of my values and interests.
How did you get interested in ethical and sustainable fashion?
About 3 years ago, I happened to come across a book in my local public library, called Overdressed: the shockingly high cost of cheap fashion, by Elizabeth L. Cline. It opened my eyes to a side of fashion that I really had never considered before in any great detail. I hadn’t been aware at all of the scope and degree of devastation (environmental, social, economical) that our clothes were having on the world. After that, I read everything I could get my hands on that related to Slow Clothes and the Eco-Fashion movement and I knew that this was a movement I wanted to be a part of.
I began supporting the sustainable fashion movement as a conscious consumer. When I had trouble finding locally produced, eco-friendly clothing that were my style and that I could wear to my 9-5 corporate office job, I founded Wallis Evera and started making them myself.
The company is named after my two grandmothers – both of whom lived and raised families in the 1940s, an era when materials and resources were well understood to be limited, and everything was – simply as a matter of course – recycled, reused, reduced and repaired.
What is the importance of the idea of ethical and sustainable fashion to you? What about ethical and sustainable fashion designers and companies?
As a consumer, I want to know that my actions and purchases are not contributing to environmental degradation or human rights abuses in any way. In fact, I will actively seek out companies who are creating a better world through their business model. I want my purchases to reflect my values and I believe that many consumers today feel the same way.
As awareness increases about issues such as climate change, population growth, and the limitations of our world’s natural resources and how that is all going to affect our societies, it is becoming imperative that anyone producing products at all should be searching for a way to do it sustainably… or not at all.
I believe in the assertion that building sustainability into your business is not just a moral imperative, it’s a business imperative.
What is Wallis Evera?
Wallis Evera is a Canadian eco-brand that makes modern hemp apparel. Our aim is to make clothes that can spark dialogue and inspire change toward a more sustainable future.
We focus on two key areas — Fibre + Form — to create elegant and enduring clothing for women in the workplace. We choose to make a difference by:
- Manufacturing locally, and
- Using hemp as the foundation fibre for all our products.
What are some of its feature products?
We launched our first collection in Spring/Summer 2015, comprised of simple sheath dresses, loosely structured jackets, pencil skirts and matching tops. This year, we’re adding a few pants and other separates. All our fabrics have at least 55% hemp content, and many of them have been custom woven and dyed specifically for us.
Many factors come into the fold for consideration within this movement. It is international, moderate in size, and growing. Tragedies such as the Rana Plaza collapse, was the largest garment factory accident in history with over 1,000 dead and more than 2,500 injured. Others were the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire in 1911 and the Pakistan Garment Factory Fires in 2012. This implies human rights, worker rights, and, in many instances, women’s and children’s rights. How can individuals, designers, fashion industries, and consumers begin to work to implement those rights so that these vulnerable populations in many countries of the world have better quality of life?
At Wallis Evera, we’ve chosen to manufacture locally and, although it’s an expensive choice, we will continue to manufacture locally – wherever local is – as we grow. We place a high value on contributing to our local economy and giving within the communities where we live. By staying local, we’re able to have a very close and personal relationship with our factory workers and we’re able to have a direct impact on the vulnerable populations in our own community.
What topics most interest you?
Because I have small kids and a husband that works in the public school system, our dinner table conversations tend to be a lot about educational theory – how we think, learn, change, grow – and how this can be encouraged. Stories related to the Hero’s Journey, human potential and transformation are very interesting to me, and I look for those themes when I pick up fiction, go to the theatre, read the news, build my business, everything.
What personal fulfillment comes from this work for you?
It’s incredibly fulfilling to be able to create something beautiful and tangible in the world, from nothing but an idea. The problem solving, team building, research, mistakes, all of it – being an entrepreneur in the fashion space is challenging in every way, every day. The learning curve is steep and continual, and the feedback is pretty immediate because you’re dealing with the market. But that’s what I love – every day there’s some new challenge to tackle and also some old challenge that you can celebrate or lay to rest.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
Juggling a young family and a start-up fashion business is beyond full-time work already. The only other thing I try to do on top of these two priorities is stay fit – if I can get a run in every day, I do – it’s how I stay sane!
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion?
Thank you for the opportunity, Scott.
Thank you for your time, Monique.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/10/24
In brief, how did you get interested and involved in ethical and sustainable fashion?
I have been interested in art and fashion since I was young. I have always been the type of person who wants to do positive projects in the World. Knowing that the mainstream fashion industry is so damaging as far as labor and pollution is concerned, I wanted to make a difference the by making everything ethically.
When you started Salts & West Clothing, what were some of the things you had in mind when things were just percolating? The idea was there but had not been founded yet.
I started in 2005. I have been making organic clothing for 11 years. When I started designing, you could not get many sustainable fabrics. Bamboo fabric was just becoming an option. Organic cotton was hard to find and usually uncoloured. The materials that I could find were very basic.
When I first started, I started making hoodies from my home. I was selling them at markets and eventually online. It has grown from there. The fabrics that I am able to source now are so amazing to wear. Having options for wearable and sustainable fabrics has made my work as a designer very rewarding.
What would you consider your feature product at the moment?
We are known for our hoodies. We make a very unique, beautiful hoodie. I have clients who still wear hoodies I made 11 years ago.
At the moment, we’re producing a bamboo, eco-fleece hoodie, which is soft and sustainable, as well as biodegradable. Regular fleece does not biodegrade and is left in our ecosystems forever.
If you look at your product line and getting the materials, what is the process for getting the materials?
We source from suppliers that use reputable 3rd party testing for chemicals and environmental toxins. Our Organic cotton fabrics are all certified organic. I have also have worked with organic cotton farmers in India to make fabrics there.
Our fabrics are OEKO-tex certified; this is a certification to ensure there are no harmful residues on the fabric from any of the fabric making process. The bamboo fabric is made using a closed loop system, this means that the water and materials used to make the fabric does not go into the ecosystem. It is treated in order to be used again.
We also cut and sew the clothing locally. We make most of our items on Vancouver, Island, in BC, close to our studio.
Are there any companies that you collaborate with on a consistent basis?
We work with the Sierra Club from time to time. They’re an environmental group. We also work with Elate Cosmetics; they have a chemically free, natural, vegan make-up line.
If you’re trying to formulate a design for a particular product such as for the hoodies and the leggings, what is your general process when you’re doing that?
My process really begins with the clients. I talk to clients everyday and find out what they are wanting from their clothing. We have some patterns people really love and continually grow our line from those base patterns. We add features and improve them. We get to learn a lot about what our customers want. We can adjust the design based on what people are telling me.
What do you consider the overall theme of Salts & West Clothing?
Our theme is locally produced using ethical labour with the most beautiful and useful sustainable materials available. Another big part of what we do is making things people really want to wear.
When some think about ethical and sustainable fashion, they will think about children’s and women’s rights. How much do you think women’s rights and children’s rights are intertwined with ethical and sustainable fashion, especially in areas of the world where the labour is mostly women and children?
This is the number one issue that is really near and dear to me. I feel like the fashion industry is built on the backs of women and children. People are profiting off the women that don’t have many choices. They are trying to keep their food on the table and their children fed.
I believe in a society where we can do better and expect more. I know that as one person, I am probably not going to change the whole industry. As consumers, we can make the daily choice to be aware and shop mindfully.
Do you have any advice up-and-coming new business owners that are ethically and sustainably based?
My number one piece of advice would be to work with somebody else first. Learn from somebody else before you start your own business. Then, when you are ready to launch, let go of perfection, just start small and get your ideas out there.
I think starting small with one or two projects is a great way to start. You can test the waters with one or two products instead of trying to do too much too soon. Once you know your product is viable and there is demand for it, then that’s when you can really dig in and go for it.
You started the company solo. Do you think there are different difficulties starting solo rather than together?
Each type of business has pros and cons. In a partnership you have to share the decision making process and that can be difficult. In a solo business all the responsibilities fall on you, that can also be hard. With a partner you have a second set of skills and hands available. If you have the right partner, and you chose that partner based complimentary skill sets, a combined business can be really successful.
Thank you for your time, Jennifer.
Salts & West Clothing has a Kickstarter campaign, which ends November 3, 2016. It can be seen here.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/10/19
You mentioned greenwashing. For those that don’t know, what is greenwashing?
It is pretending to be eco or sustainable when you’re not, and using it as a marketing thing. It used to be a weird niche-y thing. When I started Au Coco, clients would come in and say, “Why should I care about eco-clothing? What does that mean?”
Now, that question is never asked, never. When I say what we do, people say, “That’s great. Wow! That’s amazing. I’ve been looking for you.” That’s in ten years, which is not a short amount of time, but it went from being weird granola grungy thing to now almost now more of an intelligent choice to live more mindfully.
If you don’t recycle, people look at you!
(Laugh)
It’s the thing to do. Now, with social media, it’s blowing up. Now, with plastics in our oceans, society and other things like wars, and the refugee crisis. People are more tuned into what’s happening.
Parents are feeling like “what can I do?” One thing I often talk about is the power of your dollar. You can vote with your dollar. Now, Wal-Mart sells organic yogurt, not because it is part of the value system, but they were losing sales to other people who were selling organic yogurt.
So, if you are mindful about where you put your money, you can create change. The corporations will follow the money.
(Laugh)
So, it’s important and empowering for people that want to be a part of the bigger change. And so, people have been making money by pretending to be eco and through greenwashing and so on.
With respect to labeling not-so ethical behavior, or company practices that are pretending to act in an appealing way to consumers, but not actually acting in that way as per greenwashing, do you think that labeling it is a good tactic to combat that – “greenwashing”?
Only if there is some policy around the labeling. For instance, with foods now, if it says, “100% Natural” or “Organic” versus “100% Organic,” you can find out exactly what that means. It is clear across the board what that means.
I’m not sure if it is global, but certainly in North America. Now, we are waiting for apparels to have standardized labelling. You can’t just say, “Oh, this is ethically made.”
You can state certain certifications, and the content is still really vague. That is coming. There’s a few different people who are working on it. I am waiting to see what happens.
With all of these things, we wait for policy to take part, even in us working on a textile recycling system. So, the municipality of Vancouver wants to ban textiles in the landfill like they have organics, like food waste.
You can’t do that without infrastructure, and so we are working with them right now along with a few other people to figure out a way. It is with a bunch of other brands. It is to figure out a way that we can set that up and what it would look like.
Not just the benefit for us, but for the residents as well. It’s not as easy as food. You can compost food on your back deck. You can’t recycle textiles. You have to mulch it and ship it away. It’s a whole thing.
Also, they could hot compost with some red wiggler worms.
(Laugh)
I do that! We’ll see what happens. Again, you don’t just need designers. You need technology and policy makers. You need all of these people who play a role in moving things forward. So, that’s why it takes a while.
It is new. This talk about eco and ethical clothing. I think we’re trying to figure out the how, how to make it easy for consumers, how to make transparency. Transparency is probably the biggest shift now.
Not only in apparel, but a lot of consumers are wanting transparency. It’s not about the perfect. For instance, Patagonia released, not that long ago, that they found child labour in their supply chain.
They weren’t about hiding it. They came out and said, “Hey, we found this and are changing it.” Patagonia has a huge ethical and sustainable mandate. They are a huge company. So, for them to find that is a big deal, and it’s not about being perfect and lying.
It is about finding an issue and we’re fixing.
It seems easier in the digital era.
Yea, totally.
Any advice for women in leadership?
I believe that the Dalai Lama is right. He said, “Western women are going to heal this world.” I think it’s important as a woman to acknowledge the special power that we have. I think we do!
(Laugh)
I think innately we have some incredible capabilities, whether that is around multitasking or other things. Science has proven our brains multitask more than men’s brains. It is not men vs. women, but as a woman leader it’s kind of a new thing.
This is still a new thing, topic of conversation. Something we are still figuring out. In our society and in other societies, but in our society, I think to have confidence in acknowledging your capabilities.
I often see women not thinking that they can do or that they aren’t capable. “Oh! I need a man to do that,” they might think. I think we are capable of it. I think we bring a unique kind of grace, which is really different not.
One perspective that is more holistic, caring, and nurturing. We need that. Maybe, that’s my advice: women are needed! If you’re feeling called, then answer the call and step up to the plate. Do your best and that’s it!
Just make sure the number is from the right person.
(Laugh)
Just make sure it’s a divine calling.
(Laugh)
A soul calling. It has taken me a way to actually listen to my intuition, to listen to my gut. Women are generally intuitive, I think. So, that’s a special something to share.
There’s one more part about women in leadership. One thing I observe with my friends, for example, is I’m in the middle. I really connect with my male friends who are business owners, but they have someone at home taking care of the child.
I connect with my friends who are moms, mostly stay-at-home moms. They watch their husbands go through the trials and tribulations of business. I can see both sides. But I have to do it all. It is hard for them understand that.
I tell my male business owner friends, “Imagine if you had to work between 9:30 and 2:30, and fit your exercise in there.” They can’t believe that. Nothing would get done and the business would fail.
So, what I’ve learned in that is you don’t have to do it all. I think that that’s what women who are – my situation might be exacerbated, but it’s made it really obvious to me – leaders in the home and in their work life (and possibly the breadwinners in their home as well).
It feels like a lot. It is a lot. It is a lot of responsibility. So, I’m saying this to myself as I’m saying this to you. With that huge sense of responsibility, you have to remember that at the end of your day just do your best, and it’s okay if things sometimes don’t get done.
You also have to have fun in there too.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/10/17
Do you have any advice for women that are single mothers for acquiring family or community support for childcare or even just being really low on money – clothes, diapers, and so on? Even the subtle things, that are part of that like emotional support for a bad day, or an unpleasant experience during a ‘black month’.
Sharing! Sharing is caring. My son’s best friend, I take the boys on day after school to hockey and then the mom takes them one day after school. We have a sharing thing today, for instance. I needed my son to go somewhere.
I called my best friend. I had her dog all weekend. He has her kids all weekend. She has her kid for a few hours. I think it’s building a sharing community and are there for one another.
I know there’s always somebody that I can phone that is 5 minutes away. You have to not be a burden on people all of the time. It has to be a give, give, give, give relationship. That goes for clothes and things too.
You can find things from other people. Often, I give my second hand clothes to other people. I know people with older kids are happy to give to me, especially hockey equipment because I befriended somebody who’s son is older and is handing down hockey gear to me, which is amazing.
It is a give, give. There’s ways, whether buying second hand or some cheap store, because kids are always growing out of stuff. There’s quite a community. My sister has two kids. She’s great with that stuff. She gets into the neighbourhood and other mom’s schools.
Daycares are great for getting to know other parents for finding things and how. Also, shoes can get really expensive. Figuring out ways where we all come together, I have a bunch of really close friends with kids and will get together at each person’s house every so often and do a pot luck style.
Then you’re only bringing one salad and a whole room of people eat collectively. Then the kids get to play together, and so you have a sense of community. To be honest, entrepreneurship is lonely and single motherhood is lonely. It really is. It is lonely, lonely!
(Laugh)
You want to make sure you aren’t isolated and make sure that you’re not alone because everybody is going through life and it can easily feel overwhelming. it is important to connect and laugh and make sure we’re enjoying the process as much as possible.
With respect to developed nations, Canada and the United States lead the world in many respects regarding single parenthood. The majority of single parents are single mothers, too.
I suspect the community that you’re talking about will be single mothers and their extended family.
I don’t know any single moms! I’m the only one. It’s not intentional, but none of my friends are divorced or single parents. Yet!
(Laugh)
I’m kidding!
(Laugh)
I don’t know why. I wonder because it is nice to have somebody who understands what you’re going through or sometimes I have a lack of patience for my friends when they are complaining about their husbands doing the dishes wrong.
I think, “Really?” Thy know my situation and what I have to go through with my ex all of the time. It helps them to appreciate their own husbands, I think.
What can make an amicable relationship during and after a divorce with an ex – for both of your own sanity, but for the wellbeing of the child too?
If there’s substance abuse issues, it is hard. My ex had nicosubstance abuse issues, and so it made things hard. That was the problem. You aren’t dealing with a sane person. That was hard.
Nicole Bridger featured in River Blue Movie on toxic dyes.
If you were dealing with somebody who was generally sane, for myself, I went and saw a therapist weekly after the divorce. The messages were clear that what was best for my son and maybe as a mom it is easiest to do what is best for your child.
It as very clear to me that even if my son could see his father for a couple hours a week as long as he was sober and my child was safe then that was priority. That there was some regular visit so my child didn’t feel abandoned and my child didn’t see his father.
It was really easy for me to separate my issues with my ex-husband because there was still hostility that I had to heal for myself separate from supporting my son having a relationship with his dad.
So, I could heal those things and put those away and forgive him for all of those things. But I still have to manage and deal with him for what is happening today for the betterment of my child.
And I think that’s what you do. You don’t use your child as a pawn. Luckily, we’ve never done that. His dad doesn’t do that, which is good. It is all about what is best for the child.
And then it becomes really clear and it’s personal, it is not easy! I get frustrated sometimes, but people, you know. Yea.
I want to switch tracks now, if that’s okay, to one of the main lines of thought. Thank you for sharing by the way.
My father is the one and only investor. I should say that too. And then we’ve gotten money from the BBC.
Now, with respect to ethical fashion, what is its importance to you?
What it really comes down to is people are treated with respect and compassion, and so are they being paid fair wages, are they working in a healthy and respectful and happy environment, there’s an estimated like 35,000,000 slaves in the world right now.
Nicole Bridger and Kendall Barber, founder of Poppy Barley ethical footwear discuss eco and ethical fashion
A lot of those being, I don’t exact percentages, employed in forced labor for apparel. And even locally, those people think since it’s made locally then it’s ethical; but it’s not. There are a lot of dismal factories here, what I would call “tiny little sweatshops.”
That wouldn’t compare to some of the factories in China that are really pristine. I think the local consumer has an idea of local good-China bad, which is not necessarily true because it’s not that simple.
I think the industry needs a lot more transparency about what that means. I think the food industry, the organic and health food industry are really leading the way around how to label consumer products.
it’s clear for them to make choices, educated choices, and that they are empowered to make the choice instead of greenwashing or whatever. For me, for buying it, there are a lot of certifications. Certifications aren’t perfect.
Fair trade is a certification. It is not full-proof, but it is a starting point. So, I factories in Nepal, Peru, and India with fair trade certifications. I buy fabric from Blue Signs factories, which is an eco thing associated with wastewater management thing.
I support global organic textiles. That is more about fair wages. Things like that that I can rely on a little bit to help me feel good. Also, it boils down to human relationships, and if you can go and physically visit the factories. That’s a good thing.
I have used factories for years and then found these things when I bought them. They were shipping half out half of their production to Chinese sweatshops in town because it was cheaper for them to use the Chinese sweatshops than to pay people in town.
Also, there were people being paid under the table, not paying taxes, and not even in their name, which is a total mess. That’s right here in a factory I’ve been using and that I visited regularly.
What I’ve been saying is I have not been given is that, it is a starting point. It is a journey. What I say to our clients is that I can’t promise to be perfect, but I can promise to do the best that we can with what we have available to us, and financially and also technology-wise what’s available and that we will constantly be improving.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/10/14
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
So, I grew up in Vancouver. I was born and raised here. I went to school here. Every play that I did was about “reduce, reuse, recycle,” and so it was ingrained in me at a young age. That the Earth is not at our disposal. That we need to take care of it. I had two very loving parents. I am fortunate to have experienced unconditional love.
At 13, I started sewing, but I thought I was supposed to go and do sciences like my parents. When I was 16, I fell in love. His dad is a shoe designer. I went off and did what I loved doing, which is designing clothes.
I decided to make a career out of it. At 15, I wanted to start my own business, have stores, and figure out what I needed to learn, from who, and where, and what. I decided to go to university of fashion design.
I built my portfolio out of school and went to Ryerson University. In third-year, I went and interned with Vivien Westwood for a semester. She was great. She answered a lot of questions, which I had in my head.
I am not a fashionista. I wasn’t sure if I could survive without selling my soul. She showed me that I could be whoever I am, which was really nice. I knew that I needed to learn business, if I wanted to do any good. There was a crew at the university.
They were working with natural fibres. They were into yoga and ate organic food. They were aware, but I wasn’t totally aware of how detrimental the industry was, yet. It wasn’t a niche thing. “Eco-fashion” was not a word yet, in our vocabulary.
I finished university. I knew I wanted to live in Vancouver. I wasn’t happy in Toronto. I worked in the summers. Lululemon had start. I was doing hemming, when they were just one store.
A friend had a business idea that they wanted me to join in on. I asked if I could come in and pick his brain about it. I wasn’t sure about a few things. He said, “Don’t start one for them, start one for me. I am successful and want to replicate the formula for success.”
I thought, “Great! But I want to start my own company. Why don’t I work for you for a year, get my hands in everything for a year, and then start my own?” He said, “Sure!” I was there for two years. I created Au Coco. It was an eco-fashion line.
It was way ahead of its time. That was in 2004. I graduated in 2003. It was 2006 when I was done there. And then I started my own company. I started in my parents’ basement. I did a program called Entrepreneurship program, or something.
You take 6 months, which is subsidized by the government, and you write a business plan. I got my first loan from the Canadian Business Association for $25,000. I bought the machines and my fabric, in my parents’ basement, and made designs from scratch.
We would go around and have sales in my mom’s basement. The mantra of the company is “I am love,” which I believe is the reason we are here. Our true essence to pure love and we have to figure out how to come to that in our own lives in our own fashion.
It is a three-part thing. It is right for the earth. It is right for people. It is right for people. For the earth, we use all sustainable fabrics. The textile industry is the second biggest contributor to toxic waste on our planet. It is a huge problem. None of us are addressing it.
Yet, we’re all a part of it. For people, I use ethical manufacturing, whether locally or overseas. And then for spirit, we put a label that says, “I am love,” into each piece of clothing to remind the wearer to come from that place.
Whether it is how they speak to themselves with loving kind words, I believe all women should feel beautiful just the way they are, and how they are treating others throughout the day and through the choices they make throughout their lives.
That’s the company. Now, we are in 2008. I got married. Then I had a child, and then I quickly got divorced. My son was 7 months old when I left. His dad was just very toxic for the relationship.
Things continued to happened. I finally sobered up to the reality of what was going on when I had my child and couldn’t have a kid in that situation. My parents invited me to live with them.
So, it was not only our business in the basement, but me and my 7-month old child were living with them. It was incredibly generous, loving people – my parents. My mom would watch him one or two days a week to breastfeed every two hours.
It would keep things going. And then in 2011, my son was about a year and half and I brought in a nanny so I could work fulltime, and I opened my store in Kitsilano. That was 2011. That, for me, was when the business really started.
That’s when we started to make sales. In 2012, the factory I had been working at locally. The owners wanted to retire, So, I bought the factory, not the build but the business, from them. That was $80,000 for 6,000 square feet of machines and 20 something employees.
They all signed on to keep working. They said it was profitable. I very quickly discovered that it wasn’t. We tried different iterations of it for 3 years. I lost a lot of money in the process. Just this last October, I closed the factory.
I just could not make it work and we were drowning. So then, I moved the store to Gastown from Kitsilano a year ago, last Spring. That was fantastic. It double sales right away as well as 50% of the clients that walk in are tourists, which is great.
And the clothing of the factory, that almost bankrupt me. Now, we are climbing out of that that. We have some financing. We are turning it around, which I am really excited about. We are starting to do really well.
The company is profitable, very quickly after closing the factory. It has been mentally, physically, emotionally, and spiritually to lay off 25 people that work paycheque to paycheque.
It is one of the hardest things I’ve had to endure. I think it was harder than my divorce.
(Laugh)
It is part of business and growing up. That’s where we are now. Now, we are profitable and doing really well and about what is ahead. I want to start another store next year. The goal of the company is to eventually grow to 20 to 50 stores, globally.
I would like 75% of our sales to be online. The stores act as a community building space, where people can come and connect. I really see that with our clients who are hungry for like-minded connection.
Our product is beautiful and functional and happens to have this value. Our value connections to our client, when you go and it doesn’t seem to push recycling down your throat. I didn’t want that.
I wanted it to be inspiring and beautiful and eventually diversify the product from women’s lifestyle to men’s, baby’s, and ethical products you can rely on for worth in how they’re made, and still beautifully designed.
That’s where we’re at.
(Laugh)
(Laugh)
My life story in 10 minutes.
Now, your son is 7.
He’s 7 and incredible. If you can imagine, I am a single mom. When we closed the factory, I moved head office into my apartment. I only started paying myself a year-ish ago when I moved into my parents’ home when my son was 6.
I finally felt like we could do it without so much help. Now, I have head office in the apartment, single mom without child care.
(Laugh)
I work when he’s at school between 9:30 and 2:30. I am supposed to put exercise in there too. Luckily, he’s 7. We can go biking and running together. It’s intense, but I just keep going. We almost hit bankruptcy a couple of times.
You just keep persevering.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/09/30
I love to collaborate. In London, it is some people throwing out some beautiful things. I always have a fantasy about how to recycle different fabrics. The rubbish company, this company collecting the rubbish from the bigger houses in London.
They just give the recycling to collaborate together. They are all too happy to give a second life to fabrics rather than throwing it out. It is a good collaboration. Also, I would like to use 3D printing. I want to learn more about this technology.
Some work with corn flour, which is a natural material. It is always improving and becoming eco-friendly. I like to be able to combine different techniques such as the oil technique., too. There are many different things ongoing.
I see eco-friendly as the future. We need to think about our future and our children’s future. We need to think about what’s going to happen later. It is all in my heart since my childhood. I love to speak about these things.
I used to teach children about recycling toys. I think teaching children is important. It is easier to teach them than the adults. I see in my background, in Transylvania, where it is normalized.
I grew up with clothes that adults would gives to parents’ children, and so on. Those that they were about to throw out they would give to the other parents for their kids. It was community sharing.
Most of part-time labour force is women. Most of those in the garment industry are women and children. If you care about children’s rights, women’s rights, and the environment, the fashion industry can be one linchpin.
I went to a sustainable event. It was looking at the fast fashion in places like Bangladesh and seeing how the children are working and so on. It’s a big problem, but it’s gaining attention.
You’ve seen the same meme campaign: who made my clothes?
Yes, people like to know where their clothes came from, which is a bit like their food. We need to get to a point where some or most people get to this point. There are companies that go handmade in London, in New York, in Vancouver, and so on. It’s hard, though.
If something is made in China, you reach more people. However, we don’t want to do that because we know what’s happening there. We need to advertise more. The people can see it on the TV and the magazines, which provides more exposure for smaller companies and brands.
In the long road, it is an uphill battle for new competitors. You’ve seen a couple countries and will be presenting and many events, soon. What is the state of ethical and sustainable fashion in contrast to non-ethical and non-sustainable fashion?
People are open to the new in the US. They are open to new products, new styles, new stuff. I still believe it is possible to grow even if I’m equal and don’t have money for advertisements. I appreciate the opportunity to talk about my brand without charging thousands of dollars.
I believe the future is getting better. I believe the word is getting out with more editors and magazines. It’s here all over the world. It is in this moment a bit in need of improvement.
Any thoughts or feelings in conclusion?
Thank you for very much for your interview. I will share this. I will share on my website as I can. It is good to think of the future, not simply our life and while we are living here, but the next generation and the environment. With hard work, we are getting there step-by-step.
Thank you for your time, Matilda.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/09/29
Your major locations are London, Vancouver, New York, and Brisbane.
New York one is for exhibitors. There will be over one thousand. I am in the handmade section. With the British designer, this was an opportunity through the UK. I applied for the opportunity. They provided the opportunity for me.
These are great opportunities for me. It is great exposure and mutually beneficial. It helps with the international viewers, buyers, and agents. Agents are very important for spreading out my brand to different countries.
After the buyers come and know the product, they can order and communicate with me. It is important to put out the shops. I like that my company is eco-luxury. Right now, nobody really knows what it is.
Many designers use organic fabrics. I think it is really starting a special line with the recycled luxury fabrics. It is finding my market and hopefully this is becoming normalized. In fact, it is becoming more normalized in the fashion culture.
People care about the environment and the natural resources, and the environment. My products are made in London, and I source all fabrics from the UK. I only buy from UK sellers for the fabrics.
I am keeping this strong. I think it’s important to keep things based on and sourced from one country. A lot has been sourced from China for other companies and brands. They are not well-made products. They are made fast. They have to change.
It is fast fashion. I think fast fashion is the direction for most companies. I want to keep the handmade and unique products. I feel like with machines it is the same. I like having things different with the products.
My next collection will be British tailor-made. It is so beautiful. It lasts forever. I would like to combine with luxury fabrics for really nice products. The rubbish company is Spencer House. It is the house where Princess Diana lived before.
It is a good rubbish company. The rubbish company called me and asked if I would like to recycle the curtains. I said, “Yes!” I went crazy, “Oh my God, it’s so full of history.” It is British tailor-made styles.
I would like to put a touch of England history to it. I am just so excited to start on that project.
It is historic. You’re able to take the materials from one of the most famous people in London and then make something unique. It’s cool.
I am so, so happy to this company found me. I have been cleaning the fabrics. I had a look at the fabric quality, and the century. I have some from the 18th century. It is a wonderful project. I am so excited to give a second life for this kind of fabric.
It is full of history. It’s exciting.
A lot of the work you’ve been discussing, the shows, the fabrics, and the collections. What have been some major collaborations other than those stores like the rubbish provided by Spencer House? You contacting them or them contacting you.
You have skill sets they don’t have, and vice versa.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/09/27
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I was born and grew up in Transylvania. It is a different life there. There are eco-fashion designers. It was a part of my life. I grew up with it around me. I found it important. I moved from Transylvania from Budapest, Hungary in 2006. In 2009, I started TildArt.
I had works showing Budapest. I always find fabric, which can be recycled. One of my collections was from vinyl records, movie strips, and recycling fabrics. In 2012, I moved to London.
It is a fashion center of the world and a fashion city. I went here without knowing the English language. I came here without knowing it. I needed to learn to take advantage of the opportunities.
One friend that does the rickshaw bike. It is a tricycle with the passenger sitting in the backseat, which can seat 3 or 4 people. When I arrived to London without English language or money, I started to ride the rickshaw.
(Laughs)
It was a bit difficult at times. I was in the city. After I get used to the it and the English language, it was interesting. I met a lot of interesting people. I found my main show piece through a bicycle inner tube.
With my new collection, I hand wove together and put things together with different techniques. There are bicycle inner tubes put together. I changed the fabric. I changed the fabric into luxury or quality fabrics, which I combined together.
With recycled products, they are cheaper, made faster, and so on. I started my studio in London in 2014. I decided to do something different than it with recycled products. It looks luxury and feels that way, too.
Before, when I did the rickshaw, I had a work in Hungary. I applied to different events. I applied to the Vancouver fashion show week. They invited me. It was my first big event. Everybody loved my collection. I brought two. One from bicycle inner tubes.
Another from movie strips. When I opened he studio, I decided that the fabric would be high quality or luxury. There are many handmade products from me. I use handmade oils and new technology like a laser cutter, for instance.
My buyers are more North Americans and people from London. I decided to go back to Vancouver to do the next show with a different collection, not simply a recycling eco-luxury. It was a wonderful time.
I had a lot of interest. I had sales. It is a really, really nice event. I really think it is like 100 staff members that organize the events into perfection. I really enjoy the event, especially bringing the collection.
Everything is working to bring my dream come true, and it’s coming true. I am rally enjoyed being there. From Vancouver, I went to Los Angeles. I found Los Angeles buyers as well. I make private sales occasionally, too.
I went to the New York. I had an exhibition at the trade show. This is the next level of selling products for the business. Also, I will have work showing in Australia on October 8. When I came back from New York, I have to leave to Australia, which means a lot going.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/09/22
What meaning does this work bring for you?
Everything, there’s a lot of different aspects. I have often been yelled at by friends and family that I work too much. I am happy when I am here. I know every time that we improve, then we are helping people make a difference.
Of course, we want to give really great shoes to vegans and those ethically inclined. However, my goal is to reach out to people who would normally use leather, especially since the lifetime of a shoe should be more than a year.
People think it’s a year. I want to reach out to those people and let them know you can have shoes that last 10 years. That concept that ethical and sustainable fashion is an option. It’s, to me, a love. I spend a lot of time in the retail front of the shop. I love talking to customers.
I love taking feedback. That means I can direct us in a way that is fulfilling the demands of the marketplace. Also, it is making sure that it is not simply the niche that we are getting to, but when we get to customers that aren’t ethically inclined or vegans.
They say, “Oh, this isn’t leather.” We go, “No, it’s not.” We say, “It’s a high-tech synthetic. It’s neither animal or plant.” It different and durable. But they go, “It looks exactly like leather.”
It is getting to those people. I will come back to that. It is a big thing for me, getting to people who don’t necessarily think that is an option, and getting to people who believe leather is the best thing out there and going.
It’s not. You’re looking at pineapple fibre and leather made out of mushrooms now. There are so many amazing things going around. The slaughter of animals is important. Same with the mass consumption of things is important.
We have people come after three years from the first purchase and come to replace the shoe, change the color, replace the laces, and then you have a new shoe, but you haven’t gotten a new product, really.
You have re-utilized what you had before. You are reducing the amount of resources you use significantly. The impact is like the person buying 6 shoes a year versus 2 pairs of shoes in 10 years. If you think about it, it is a lot of resources being saved.
That’s a lot less in terms of manufacturing and stuff being grown. That’s a whole lot fewer animals being slaughtered. Everything, I can’t tell you one thing alone. It is every little bit of it.
It is reaching out to people that don’t quite know that that is available. It is improving out customer standards, providing a better product, and so on. All of it is fulfilling. All of it.
A lot of the ethical and sustainable fashion help reduce the amount of climate change and global warming ongoing via carbon capture. In addition, it can reduce the need for animal fibres, which can be a net carbon negative in the end.
Cow leather is the most common in terms of industries. Camels are more expensive. It’s funny because if you stop using leather. That will leave farmers with all of this left over product, which they can’t circulate.
It’s the same thing with the meat. If you consume it less, you get to the point that you’re cutting down and it’s supply and demand. If there’s no demand for it, then they have reduced supply. Otherwise, it will cost them.
You’re looking at less and less lives being take and destroyed because you’ve decided to make an ethical choice. One company we deal with, and have stock in the shop, are Eco Vegan Shoes.
They have a concept: beyond leather. It resonates with me. It is getting past that.
This can reduce the amount of consumption of things that become pollutants. One model is sustainable and recycles the fibres through decomposition. These can be net negative for carbon emissions, especially to your point, I think. Any thoughts or feelings in conclusion?
I think with something like pineapple fibre. It is not necessarily about the agriculture, when you harvest a pineapple for every pineapple you have these leaves that sit around it and the leaves would go to waste or compost.
They figured out how to use those leaves to turn them into a fibre. You’re reducing what would normally go to a lot of waste and utilizing it. It is not that it will decompose and replenish the soil. You have use what would go to waste and then made a product.
You have reduced people use PVC-based stuff and using other stuff. That new product will biodegrade. Yes, it goes through manufacture and treatment. The amount of manufacture that goes into it would be a lot less for that product.
With us, you’re looking at a synthetic product, but that will last 10-015 years; whereas, a natural product will last much shorter comparatively. Also, our material is designed to biodegrade, and will dot hat over a century.
It is designed to fall apart. Even when creating synthetics, there is a way, even if there is enough money to do research into those products to make those that are good for the environment because they have the sustainability and durability to them.
You’re using less resources. Some synthetics are good and some are bad. The bad ones won’t last a long time and are not as durable. They made to recycled and then used to make another pair of shoes, and so on. The difference is substantial.
Multiple factors come into it. If I had the choice, I would go for something that is the by-product of another industry. That means that which is being used is re-utilized, and that it is sustainable. So, you don’t have to recreate a product several times.
And I think it is a good value for the world. Often, people can put all of the money into developing and creating a product. All of the sudden, you realize that it is too expensive for anyone to afford and it becomes pointless.
It is all of those factors being taken in and being considered that will eventually get us to a point where we are using materials that are way more sustainable and ethical. I hope that will point us in the right direction in the end.
Thank you for your time, Bonnie.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/09/20
This is part two of a four part interview series. For part one, please click here.
In brief, tell us how you got involved in ethical and sustainable fashion.
I started working full-time here five years ago. The owner of the company, Peter, is my step-dad. He started the company 21 years ago, which was when ethical and sustainable fashion was not something familiar to people.
The business started with Peter getting a redundancy from his job. He has always been a vegan. He was looking for some good quality vegan shoes. He never found any that he was happy with by his standards.
He put out an ad about starting a vegan shoe store. He met the co-founder Jenny. She is no longer in the store. She was involved until about 3 years ago. Peter and Jenny started the business and began manufacturing in Australia. They worked from there – step by step.
If you take the idea of ethical and sustainable fashion, what is the importance of it to you?
I think it should be the baseline. I don’t see why we should have any other form of fashion. I don’t see why you should invest any money or effort into unsustainable things. If you look at the planet today, we are saturated with population.
We are using more resources than everyone has access to, which is a sustainability issue. It should be the baseline. We receive feedback from customer. I want them. I like them, but my shoes from 5 years ago still work.
It is probably a terrible business model, but a good business ethic. We want things to last through time. That’s why if you look at our store that our styles have a classic fashion look to them.
They are more or less timeless. People don’t have to go out and purchase new shoes every few months or soles every 3 months. The shoes are designed to be repairable and durable.
Many things come into the discussion such as the Rana Plaza Factory collapse. This is an incident that garners attention with injuring over 2,500 people and killing over 1,000. That’s when these issues come to the fore.
Most of the workers in the garments industry are low-income, children, and women. What aspects of this play into children’s rights and women’s rights?
Usually, we’re doing the majority of the manufacturing in Australia. Workers are looked after, well-compensated, and treated well. We started looking at making a small range of shoes a couple years ago, in India.
Recently, we’ve had the first line of products come out of there. Apart from being really corrupt, things in India move slowly. Peter and myself will go and visit them every 12 to 18 months.
My background is Indian. That makes walking in and talking easier with the workers rather than through agents and managers. I am going in and having conversations with the workers. I see what they’re after there.
We are exploring options into developing education programs for the women that are employed and looking at how to help them educate their children. We want to build something that would mean the empowerment of women without taking away the culture.
That is something hard to deal with when you’re dealing with another country. Often, I have realized that women don’t want to or are afraid to because they’ve never been told that they can manage the business.
They don’t understand the conversation because they don’t have the conversation. In terms of kids’ rights and women’s rights, kid shouldn’t work. I know a lot of cultures put their kids to work young. I know they are poorer and need the income to support the family.
However, childhood should be about exploration and education. We can work to empower women and parents to allow their child to have a good childhood growing up. We can give them the resources to educate themselves. And that it’s okay to educate themselves.
That breaking some cultural barriers is a good thing. Some conversations with women close off because they feel as though they’ll get in some trouble if they decided to further their careers. They don’t see it as careers, only as a labour job.
I think kids should not be allowed to work and parents should have the resources to give their children and themselves a good life.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/09/16
In brief, tell us how you got involved in ethical and sustainable fashion.
I started working full-time here five years ago. The owner of the company, Peter, is my step-dad. He started the company 21 years ago, which was when ethical and sustainable fashion was not something familiar to people.
The business started with Peter getting a redundancy from his job. He has always been a vegan. He was looking for some good quality vegan shoes. He never found any that he was happy with by his standards.
He put out an ad about starting a vegan shoe store. He met the co-founder Jenny. She is no longer in the store. She was involved until about 3 years ago. Peter and Jenny started the business and began manufacturing in Australia. They worked from there – step by step.
If you take the idea of ethical and sustainable fashion, what is the importance of it to you?
I think it should be the baseline. I don’t see why we should have any other form of fashion. I don’t see why you should invest any money or effort into unsustainable things. If you look at the planet today, we are saturated with population.
We are using more resources than everyone has access to, which is a sustainability issue. It should be the baseline. We receive feedback from customer. I want them. I like them, but my shoes from 5 years ago still work.
It is probably a terrible business model, but a good business ethic. We want things to last through time. That’s why if you look at our store that our styles have a classic fashion look to them.
They are more or less timeless. People don’t have to go out and purchase new shoes every few months or soles every 3 months. The shoes are designed to be repairable and durable.
Many things come into the discussion such as the Rana Plaza Factory collapse. This is an incident that garners attention with injuring over 2,500 people and killing over 1,000. That’s when these issues come to the fore.
Most of the workers in the garments industry are low-income, children, and women. What aspects of this play into children’s rights and women’s rights?
Usually, we’re doing the majority of the manufacturing in Australia. Workers are looked after, well-compensated, and treated well. We started looking at making a small range of shoes a couple years ago, in India.
Recently, we’ve had the first line of products come out of there. Apart from being really corrupt, things in India move slowly. Peter and myself will go and visit them every 12 to 18 months.
My background is Indian. That makes walking in and talking easier with the workers rather than through agents and managers. I am going in and having conversations with the workers. I see what they’re after there.
We are exploring options into developing education programs for the women that are employed and looking at how to help them educate their children. We want to build something that would mean the empowerment of women without taking away the culture.
That is something hard to deal with when you’re dealing with another country. Often, I have realized that women don’t want to or are afraid to because they’ve never been told that they can manage the business.
They don’t understand the conversation because they don’t have the conversation. In terms of kids’ rights and women’s rights, kid shouldn’t work. I know a lot of cultures put their kids to work young. I know they are poorer and need the income to support the family.
However, childhood should be about exploration and education. We can work to empower women and parents to allow their child to have a good childhood growing up. We can give them the resources to educate themselves. And that it’s okay to educate themselves.
That breaking some cultural barriers is a good thing. Some conversations with women close off because they feel as though they’ll get in some trouble if they decided to further their careers. They don’t see it as careers, only as a labour job.
I think kids should not be allowed to work and parents should have the resources to give their children and themselves a good life.
*This is part one of a four part interview series with Bonnie Murthy.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/08/31
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I grew up in a family of craftspeople in rural south Missouri, and was always making things, creating, exploring nature. I’d spend hours by the creek, with the plants and animals, and developed a relationship with nature that is a wellspring of joy and curiosity to me. I started a handmade clothing line right out of high school, selling to boutiques, and kept getting asked to make wedding dresses. I thought brides would be crazy to work with, and I resisted at first.
I made my first wedding dress (a pale blue one) and set of bridesmaids dresses at age 19, after taking on a more custom orders launched a small eco bridal collection.
I am a self-taught maker, I went to school for fashion but everything or real importance I learned by experimenting… I love taking old dresses apart, and we still re-create many heirloom vintage wedding gowns for brides.
My super power is intuitive design, working closely with a bride to design her dream dress. I love walking a bride through every fitting, putting the final details together and that moment where every element is in agreement and clicks and makes the bride shine!
What is the importance of ethical/sustainable fashion to you?
It would be too easy to design a line of dresses with trendy elements and have it unethically manufactured, but my conscious wouldn’t let me do business in this way. Besides, I like a a good challenge
We only use three main fabrics in our gowns, sumptuous eco sources Silk/Hemp blend, and two weights of Organic Cotton that’s grown and milled in the USA. These fabrics are so amazing and each different texture work together to create so many diverse styles.
What is Janay A Eco Bridal?
Custom Weddings gowns for Awesome Eco-Goddess. Based in Kansas City, working nationwide soon with a mobile service and we can also design over skype and mail finished dresses to brides anywhere!
What makes Janay A Eco Bridal unique?
We focus on creating each gown specifically to the brides desires, much different than buying a gown style from a store that many hundreds of brides also would be wearing. The custom process is a unique alchemy, taking the most luxurious natural materials and waving a magic wand (meaning much hrd work by my small and talented team of pattern makers and sewers!) to craft the most special dresses for our lovely eco-goddess brides.
The designs we create are as varied as each unique awesome lady we get to design in collaboration with. Things that I really love are clean lines with a bit of flowey whimsey, comfort, functionality and subtle design surprises. Dashes of vintages laces and textures are so fun to play with, and I often add pockets or hidden colourful linings or tulle under a skirt.
Many gowns I design are made to transition from full length formal ceremony gown to a short fun party frock for the reception and beyond, as easy as the removal of a part of the bottom of the dress.
What is the greatest challenge in founding a business?
Adhering to the mainstream business model didn’t work for me- things like big bridal shows, industry bridal trade shows, selling to stores weren’t congruent with how my bride shops or set up to deliver the personal attention that brides deserve.
After I let go of trying to do these things my custom business blossomed, now I’m able to empower more local women who are the artisans that create the dresses and accessories.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
My next big project is so exciting- I’m rebranding a mobile version of Janay A as “High Vibe Bride,” which will be a functioning custom shop and design studio in a remodeled biodiesel bus.
I’ll be able to go on tours to other cities and bring eco-custom designed wedding gowns to brides, made on location rather than having to mail a gown out to be fitted to perfection, and without having to go through bridal shops.
What meaning or personal fulfillment does this work bring for you?
This work is the most fulfilling! I love being able to facilitate making brides dreams come true and doing it in a way that is ethical and in right relation with the earth and all beings. That truly is the magic sparkles on my days, plus I also get to empower local women who are my awesome seamstresses and accessory designers. Icing on the cake!
With regard to ethical and sustainable fashion companies, what’s the importance of them now?
There is a power in this collective movement for slow fashion, where quirky eco businesses like mine can thrive. We’re all in this together, and by lifting everyone up through the creation process I feel good about contributing to a vibrant healthy planet.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion?
Thank you for including my business in this awesome website, honoured to be among such a talented conscious collective!
Thank you for your time, Janay.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/08/25
Dorris Bogus, founder of KaMIT Sport fitness and lifestyle wear focuses 30 percent of her line on eco-friendly fabrics like organic cotton and bamboo. Read more about her and Kamit Sport below!
Tell us about yourself – familial/personal story, education, and prior work.
I grew up in Knoxville Tennessee. as the middle child of 10 siblings. I can remember vividly shopping at thrift stores for clothes for school and special events. “New” was not a part of my upbringing. Perhaps that is where my affinity for recycling started. I graduated from Tennessee State University with a BS in Allied Health and minor in Chemistry. I worked in a clinical laboratory for 10 years in Texas and Hawaii.
After moving to Plano in 1991, I started a floral and gift basket business with a focus on corporate accounts. After the tragedy of 911, most of my corporate business dried up. I started my apparel business for two reasons. I like working out and wanted to inspire and address obesity in teenagers (I thought that apparel would be a way to reach them. It was not) and I like the creative-entrepreneurial process. Later I focused marketing efforts toward an older demographic.
I am currently married and have three children. We reside in Plano Texas.
After a 3rd grade student called my company and asked If we recycled I started to consider ways to incorporated eco-friendly fabrics into my line of active wear and also to find ways to recycle the everyday items associated with running a business.
What is the importance of ethical fashion to you?
The number one reason is Empathy.
Scott, I grew up working. I started working summer jobs at the age of 13. Some of the jobs were hard in terms of long hours with little pay. When I look at the age of the workers and the working conditions in some of these apparel factories it is dis-hearting. Many of the workers have no way to advance and to earn a decent wage. Right now, my company is able to hire local talent for design, and cut and sew when needed. I like being able to visit the companies associated with the production of my products. As my company grows I will continue to require the same fair labor standards.
What is the importance of sustainable fashion to you?
I want future generation to inherit a planet that is able to replenish itself without the use of harsh chemicals that pollute the air. To me it is all about the next generation. They need a legacy to build on not one that they constantly have to repair. Sustainable fabric in particular are well suited for the category of clothes that KaMIT makes. Active wear requires certain properties that fabrics like bamboo and organic cotton already possess. Bamboo is naturally antimicrobial, has moisture wicking properties. Bamboo is easy to maintain and holds up well under repeated washing. It is great to design with and feels great against the skin. Organic cotton requires less water and no harsh insecticides to grow abundantly.
eco friendly fitness wear from Kamit Sport
KaMIT (pronounced Commit) because whatever you do you have to commit to it.
KaMIT is women active/casual wear brand. KaMIT (fit for your lifestyle) allows a woman to transition through her day in comfort and style.
KaMIT the brand takes into account the many roles that women have during the course of 24 hours. As a mother of three children I wore many hats; mom, wife, PTA board member, entrepreneur, I struggled to find balance and a wardrobe that was functional and stylish.
The pieces in the line can do double duty.
Eco friendly clothing from Kamit Sport
What makes the company unique?
The company’s culture is one thing that makes it unique. I learned the industry from the ground up. I could not sew a pillowcase let alone use industrial sewing equipment, so the company likes to take chances on new hires and train them. I would not ask any employee, contract worker or anyone associated with my company to do anything that I would not do myself.
We are constantly searching for sustainable fabrics to incorporate into the brand. We design in ways to leave as little as possible fabric on the floor. When possible, we use recycled newsprint for cutting out patterns. We are looking at outfitting our sewing machines with motors that are quieter, (minimize noise pollution) and that shut down when the petal is not being pressed (energy efficient).
Mentee Cori Robertson for Kamit Sport
We mentor design students from the local high schools and University of North Texas.
We are able to design, make patterns, grade and sample sew in house. We can do small production runs in house.
What other work are you involved in at this point in time?
I am on the board of a non-profit J. B. Dondolo whose main effort is to provide services to impoverished areas worldwide. J B Dondolo is a member of Green Industry Platform.
What meaning or personal fulfillment does this work bring for you?
I remember the charitable organizations that helped my family and me. When I was growing up without the help of charities like the Salvation Army, I would not have had clothes and sometimes food to eat. The ability to give back to people who just need the necessities of life like food, health care, clean water, and shelter is rewarding. It feels like I am reaching back and helping and paying it forward as well.
With regard to ethical and sustainable fashion companies, what’s the importance of them now?
I think that with the global economy as well as global warming we have a real and immediate sense of connection with all groups of people and a responsibility to act consciously towards the ultimate good of all. Ethical and sustainable fashion is the industry’s opportunity to do just that.
Any feelings or thoughts in conclusion?
I urge all in the fashion industry to plan incorporate and actively monitor their efforts to make the planet cleaner, safer and sustainable for now and for future generations. Do what you can.
Thank you for your time, Dorris.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): Trusted Clothes
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/05/31
When you think of individual effort and the problems that affect our sense of self, self-doubt can be crippling.
Here at Trusted Clothes, the important part of our mandate is social activism for sustainable, ecologically friendly, and ethical fashion. Don’t despair, don’t be paralyzed by self-doubt, and don’t let your hearts be troubled, is what I say.
Social activism that involves a concentrated effort to increase the consumption of natural fibres in an economy that relies heavily on synthetic/man-made fibres is a tall order to fill. Some of the major global impacts that have to do with climate change and global warming are because of pollution and the consumption of natural resources.
Some estimate that there are over 4.54 trillion pieces of micro plastics in the world’s oceans today. What’s worse is that our current recycling practices cannot keep up with the rate at which these micro plastics pollute the environment and, therefore, our consumption patterns are unsustainable in the long term but they can be sustainable to a limited degree in the short-term. However, this brings forth the question; what kind of world do we want to leave for our children, grandchildren, and even our future selves that are on the road to aging and ill-health? The solution to this issue may come down to the individual.
A Collection of Individuals
As individuals, we make up the larger society that participates in this consuming culture. That means an individual with positive intent may have some measure of self-doubt, a quality that affects most of us. I concluded a previous piece with the question, ‘but what can’t we do?’ I have come up with what I think is a suitable answer; any change in history comes from the dead and forgotten in name and action, but it is seen through their triumph over self-doubt via collective action. Name any movement, it was accomplished using this method, which is to overcome the worst enemy of the self, and help others to do the same.
This question ‘but what can I do’ is a reasonable concern that seems grounded, partly, in some form of self-doubt. If I’m an individual, and I’m attempting to do some good for future generations, the health of the environment, and to also contribute towards a sustainable system for all other living beings, then I have to take into account that I am a single individual and at times, I can feel devastatingly lonely in my endeavours.
But, at the same time, there are reasons to be hopeful and feel less alone making sustainable choices. I think that one of the main reasons to maintain a sense of hopefulness comes from the fact that people around the world are becoming more connected through the internet. As more people have access to devices with internet connectivity, relevant information is becoming more available to people across all social and economic backgrounds enabling them to be able to better educate themselves on issues that are of great importance to their local communities and the world at large. Therefore, community participation, social activism, and economic activism through the use of more environmentally friendly resources like natural fibres/textiles, can be incorporated into the fashion industry and can also be taken into account within the global perspective. This, I think, is a great reason to have hope.
And as with everything written, I could be wrong, incredibly wrong – think for yourself and come up with your own conclusions. I’m human and a writer. I have biases, fallibilities, and quirks – even some funny ones. My words aren’t gold, nor are they a calf.
License
In-Sight Publishing by Scott Douglas Jacobsen is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.in-sightpublishing.com.
Copyright
© Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing 2012-Present. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Scott Douglas Jacobsen and In-Sight Publishing with appropriate and specific direction to the original content. All interviewees and authors co-copyright their material and may disseminate for their independent purposes.




