Jamie Hayes, Production Mode and the Chicagoan Horween Tannery
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): The Good Men Project
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2017/09/23
I am a writer and executive administrator for Trusted Clothes, which is an ethical and sustainable fashion organization. The following is a series devoted in honor of the work done in collaboration with the Schroeckers and the Trusted Clothes team. Part 4 below, and 1 here, 2 here, and 3 here.
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What makes Production Mode unique?
I think the proprietary/exclusive materials. Also, the level of transparency—that I share where the materials come from, who is making the garments, the fact that you can come into our studio and see firsthand how things are made. As well, I would say the quality of the fit. I consulted with a technical designer with many years of experience working with leather to refine the fit. A lot of time and energy spent on these patterns. The fit is good for ready-to-order, and then can be further refined for people that can come to Chicago for a fitting. That’s something a lot of designers don’t offer.
Your inaugural collection consisted of leather that was vegetable tanned from a unionized shop, Chicago’s Horween tannery. Why the Horween tannery for the inaugural collection?
For a couple reasons, one was a happy accident. I was discussing the custom print with Paula. She said, “What color should the base cloth be?” I referenced one of her paintings. She said, “Oh, a hide color.” I had a lightbulb moment. I said, “No, no, you should print it on hide!”
The search began for the best quality leather. Leather is touchy if you’re talking about “ethical” fashion. Some people say that because it is an animal dying in order to produce something it is not ethical. I respect and understand that.
Digging in deeper from there, I found one tannery left in Chicago. I was familiar with it from my former job as a handbag designer, but I hadn’t dug as deep as I did in this case. I researched vegetable tanning– artisanal, traditional way to tan leather that uses organic plant matter such as sticks, barks, and tree extracts. It is a 6-weeks process in contrast to chrome-tanning, which is a 6-hour process.
Chrome-tanning uses chromium, which is a heavy metal and highly carcinogenic. That choice became really clear for me. I didn’t want to use a material that is carcinogenic. That will end up in our waterways or landfills. Also, I learned that vegetable-tanned leather tends to age much better than chrome-tanned leather. So if you think how vintage leather goods get that great patina versus a scuffed, worn out look that is typical nowadays, that’s the difference between a vegetable tan and a chrome tan.
In terms of the quality, design, and aesthetic perspectives, thinking about the planet, the fact that the factory is unionized, it was an easy decision to go with Horween. In addition, it is wonderful. I can travel whenever I want and speak to my sales representative. Since it is a mile from my shop. All of the money stays within the local economy.
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