Process and Production Chains – Session 2
Author(s): Scott Douglas Jacobsen
Publication (Outlet/Website): La Petite Mort
Publication Date (yyyy/mm/dd): 2016/07/01
Let’s talk a little bit about processes and transparent production chains, what is a concern for you there? What should those that aren’t that area know?
I think when it comes to fair fashion, fair trade, whether it is eco-friendly or not. That is something that people care most about nowadays. People want to know what they’re buying is made in an ethical point of view in social terms. That nobody has been exploited. That people are getting paid at a decent rate. There’s no kids working on it.
There’s a perception that people are getting more into questioning it, or even not thinking about it. Most people probably don’t think about it. I think there’s a lot of excitement among people to make people ask, “Who is making my clothes?” That is where the movements started years ago.
People started to ask the brand. Who is behind all of this production? One of things we see in the advertising world is cool people, young kids, wearing very nice clothing, but then, what else? That is the last point.
When it comes to chains, and if we ask the big brands, and we have in the last three years, they cannot tell who. They might say in Europe or we’re doing it in Morocco. They don’t manage who is doing it. They are hiring and somebody they don’t know is doing it. They can’t really answer.
What I try to do with brand is try to keep on a very short chain, that’s why I went to meet all of the suppliers myself. I tried out several. I put a lot of time into it. That’s why when somebody asks me, “So, where do you do this?” I say, “Here in Lima, Peru.” I am trying to get the suppliers as my team.
When the small businesses start, you don’t have a production team. You do have different workshops. We get to establish a closer relationship. I help you; you help me. It is much more strong as a relationship. At the end, even though they are not part of the company, they are the stakeholders.
That could be extended into suppliers in Peru. How does that extend to supplier chains and your own work?
When it comes to suppliers in, for instance, raw materials, we talk a lot about support, farmer’s support. People who are basically the first contact with Earth and do the hardest work. When I talk to my suppliers, and I go to certified organic, I get to know the people working the fields. I do not get to see the people and check out their living conditions – if they’re decent.
At first, I couldn’t because I am a small buyer and have to rely on their certifications. When we are looking for suppliers, we make sure they have fair trade for cotton and all. When we worked with them more and more, they shared pictures and more of the news. It is a close relationship now.
At first, you don’t get to connect that much. I, personally, haven’t met them. I wish I could go back next year to some of the fields. That would be amazing! For the moment, I am trusting that they follow what our certification process is. That is when it comes to raw materials.
When it comes to suppliers, manufacturers, that’s another word and another world, but, in that case, I can go to see how they products are being made, how the farmers are living, and whatever they price they say I put it. I don’t bargain with them. I don’t think it’s fair, even a basic blouse. To me, to be honest, sewing is super difficult. (Laughs)
Some are not skilled, like me! I do appreciate the work on it, even if it is something basic.
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